Expert Authors
Most Rated Articles
John Cunningham's Articles
I thought I’d jot down what I consider to be the five major sins of a marine aquarist, be that for a reef tank or a fish only tank. They are not in any particular order. The list is not just aimed at beginners to the hobby who are just starting a saltwater aquarium but at aquarists of any level.
When an opinion was sought about which type of aquarium to keep, the intention wasn’t to pit one against the other in some sort of competition. It was asking me for an opinion and I have to openly admit that I am hopelessly biased. I think the marine side of the hobby, be it with a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium, is unsurpassed.
The aquarist when listing the equipment required for a marine system obviously runs into the aquarium questions. These are, first, what size is it going to be, then what shape is it going to be? There may be similar considerations for a sump if one is going to be used. At the point of purchase sometimes another question - or rather choice - arises, glass or acrylic? At this point more often than not the choice is made automatically, as few retailers stock aquariums in both glass and acrylic, particularly in the same size. So what are the advantages or otherwise if there is a choice?
A marine aquarium, be it fish only aquarium or a marine reef aquarium, is very attractive. Therefore it is quite understandable that the aquarist wishes to place it in an area with the most visual impact. The aquarium could go nearly anywhere in the house without too much difficulty.
Obtaining a new aquarium is exciting. The aquarist becomes immersed in it (no pun intended!) considering aquarium equipment, fish, and corals etc. There is a clear vision of a beautiful healthy reef tank which is stunning to see. With proper planning this can all become reality. The cost of setting up a marine aquarium system is not low, but in time the investment will pay dividends in enjoyment. Or will it?
Our everyday lives are controlled by time. We may not like it but that is how it is. On the wild reef things are much the same. I know, reef life doesn’t have a lunch hour! What they do have is dawn, day, sunset and night. Life on the reef is controlled by these changes in light intensity. Daylight fish prepare to disappear into their secure holes when sunset arrives. Night life prepares to emerge. At dawn it reverses.
For a fish only aquarium or reef aquarium to look at its best there is one area that needs constant and careful attention. That area is water quality. What is water quality?
This syndrome isn’t ‘new’ as the name might suggest. It has been around for many years. However, its incident rate has much reduced over recent years but the danger is still present. ‘New Tank Syndrome’ (NTS) is a catastrophic failure of a newly set up marine aquarium system. This failure is caused by the aquarist, assuming that the system set up is adequate and correct. If the system is inadequate in some way then it is possible that it will fail, but this is not NTS. It is simply poor research and implementation.
For once this is not a mistake of a beginner aquarist. This time it is the aquarist who has been ‘at it’ for a good while. A time period cannot be placed on the problem or its likely occurrence. It could appear after months or a couple of years. More likely it will be longer than that. At the other end, ‘New Tank Syndrome’ is a beginner’s mistake. The aquarium of whatever type was set up and the novice, itching with impatience, started to stock too early. Perhaps the bio-filtration was matured reasonably, but then stocking was too rapid and problems, or even disaster struck.
In Part 1 a fish only aquarium will be covered. In Part 2 the reef aquarium will be looked at. It is assumed that the aquarium is fully set up with all necessary equipment running and checked, and the filtration is initially mature.
In Part 1 stocking a fish only aquarium was considered. This time the reef aquarium will be looked at. Whatever the type of salt water aquarium, fish only or reef, water quality is important. In the reef aquarium, water quality needs to be excellent. Again, it is assumed that the aquarium is fully set up with suitable equipment, and the biological filtration (probably a ‘live’ rock reef with maybe a sump containing further filtration) is settled and adequate.
Can the aquarist running a fish only aquarium has gained a great deal of valuable knowledge about husbandry. He/she has also been able to keep fish that the reef aquarist cannot. These fish are considered as not ‘reef friendly.’ This is the first consideration before any move is made towards a reef aquarium. The aquarist will know the fish being kept - are they reef friendly? If there is any doubt then research is needed. Chances should not be taken. If the aquarist cannot bear to part with any fish then either the aspiration for a reef aquarium should go, or a reef aquarium should be set up separately.
This is not an attempt to lay down railway lines for a converting aquarist to religiously follow, but hopefully a thought provoker that indicates some of what lies ahead. Quite a number of freshwater aquarists are tempted to keep marines because they see a stunning aquarium somewhere, or they realize that keeping marines is not as difficult as they first thought, or they feel they have accumulated enough experience to make the change. Not all freshwater aquarists are the same of course. There are some really beautiful decorated freshwater aquariums about, and keeping one of these is as difficult as a reef aquarium.
Whatever the reason the need arose to move an aquarium, and the sump if there is one, it is an action aquarists would mostly prefer to avoid. Avoidance unfortunately is usually not an option. Some aquarists take the opportunity to start again. They sell the aquarium system in entirety, and use the money obtained towards a new one. A good idea maybe, but the move still needs to take place. The advantage is the buyer usually collects and the buyer has the headache of putting it all back together again. Other aquarists will set up a new system in the desired location dry, and then move the contents of the old system directly to the new home, which does make things somewhat easier. Then the old system is sold.
The first thing that needs to be done after writing the above is to ensure the spelling is correct. It is a strange word to us ordinary mortals, but came into being with marine biologists. In the marine world one of the most fascinating double acts to watch is that of a clownfish and an anemone. The clown swims to the anemone and gains protection from the stinging tentacles, and, though there is argument, the anemone may gain by the clown chasing off unwanted threats to the anemone or dropping bits of food on it. To my knowledge anyway the anemone’s advantage is not fully clear.
Mother Nature provides the habitat for the livestock that we aquarists keep in our fish only aquariums or reef aquariums, and this, of course, is the wild reef. Mother Nature is also the provider of the other obvious essential, and that is seawater. Having written the above it would seem absolutely wrong to state that natural seawater is not recommended. So it would be - natural seawater is recommended.
There is understandably great fascination with some anemones, mainly because of their well known association with clownfish. Seeing these colourful little fish nestling in among what are normally dangerous tentacles is amazing.
The term ‘clownfish anemone’ is an incorrect description, but it describes them well enough. These are the anemones that clownfish use as a home. Probably nearly everyone, aquarist or not, has seen the amazing sight of an unharmed clownfish within the stinging tentacles.
Seahorses come in different types and they are all endearing, interesting and super to keep. In the wild they are, unfortunately, under intense pressure from collection. They are gathered by the millions; some are for the aquarium hobby but most are for alleged medicinal purposes or dried souvenirs.
I intend looking at two fish problems. These two problems are probably the most feared by marine aquarists. Those who keep a fish only aquarium could sweat a little less, but the owner of a reef aquarium can have real trouble.
Mantis shrimps are not the shrimps normally chosen by a marine aquarist to live in their display aquarium, and for good reason. They are very efficient predators. Aquarists are much happier with cleaner shrimps etc.
Shrimps are very well known to the marine aquarist. Perhaps the most well known are the cleaner shrimps, which are so interesting and ‘friendly’ - they climb around on the aquarist’s submerged hand without a care, though they’re actually looking for a morsel to eat. The hand must look like a very strange fish, but then there are some very strange looking fish in the wild, just look at frogfish as an example.
I would imagine that all marine aquarists have heard of, and probably seen, the cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis). This colourful shrimp is very popular, becoming used to the aquarist very quickly and even walking around on the hand if the opportunity presents itself - a large and strangely shaped fish to be cleaned perhaps.
Food is required by all life for energy and general health. Lots of food of the wrong type may provide some energy but the contents will not supply the general needs of the life form. So it is important to feed the life in the marine aquarium the correct type of foods and at the same time not overfeed
When an aquarium is ready for coral stocking, or is up and running and additional coral stocking is being contemplated, a trip is usually taken to the local retailer to decide on what to purchase. On arrival, more often than not there is a large range of corals on display of both the hard and soft varieties, though the latter may be in higher numbers.
Cover glasses of course are those sheets of glass that rest on the strengthening straps at the top of the aquarium. Sometimes they are fitted in plastic holders so they will slide, sometimes they just lay straight on the straps.
The aquarist has had the choice of two major forms[ of lighting for the reef aquarium, first, fluorescent tubes, and second metal halides. Many very beautiful captive reefs have been lit using one or the other, or a combination of both. Fluorescent tubes have been used to great effect on soft coral reefs where light doesn’t need to be so powerful. Hard coral reef aquarists, however, have usaquaed metal halide bulbs because of the more intense illumination they provide. Many aquarists have supplemented this lighting with actinic fluorescent tubes for two reasons - to supply the blue light which satisfies the light needs of symbiotic algae, and to provide a light step-down system (dawn and dusk) by using timers, for the benefit of fish.
Most aquarists are dictated to by circumstance. There is a really big aquarium, at a really good price, but one rather definite problem, and that is there’s nowhere to put it. So a smaller aquarium is chosen, but not by choice. However, even in the described circumstances, a smaller aquarium could be the one of choice.
The aquarist has a responsibility in his/her aquarium to maintain stable water conditions, and this applies for fish only systems and also particularly for reef systems. The stability referred to here is the continuing maintenance of appropriate levels of pH, alkalinity, calcium and the like, and also the maintenance of appropriately low levels of phosphate and nitrate. What must also be included in water parameter stability is the aquarium temperature.
Aquarists can use a small arsenal of tests to assure themselves that the seawater quality in their fish only aquariums or reef aquariums is high enough. One of these tests is carried out using a hydrometer.
Filtration is at the heart of the aquarium system. It is essential for the well being of the livestock. Modern filtration systems usually involve live rock perhaps with a deep sand bed (DSB). The trend is towards more natural filtration, and often macro algae such as Caulerpa is used to assist in mopping up nutrients such as phosphate and nitrate. Filtration is assisted with an efficient protein skimmer.
The canister filter has been in use for decades. Freshwater aquarists were the first to make use of them and they still do. Then along came the marine aquarium and the canister filter was employed to support those to. Canister filters have been around for so long that they are now very dependable and failures are rare.
When this topic arose I wondered what to do with it. The reason I wondered is that this website is designed for beginners and ‘earlier-on’ aquarists (though I notice that experienced aquarists are now visiting, and they’re more than welcome). Lighting is a scientific and technical subject.
The fish only aquarium or reef aquarium has a number of devices designed to help maintain the correct parameters, hopefully ensuring healthy livestock with a long life. These are heaters, water level controllers, calcium reactors, lighting controllers etc.
Aquarium lighting for a reef aquarium is very important. It is second in importance only to seawater quality. The lighting system needs careful consideration if corals are to prosper. In a fish only system the lighting is not particularly important. The fish need to see and also be seen, that’s all. Two fluorescent tubes¸ one white and one actinic blue are sufficient. Two tubes are required in order to create a ‘dawn and dusk’ cycle. Of course, the aquarist could use more tubes if desired.
Aquarists use different types of equipment to assist in the running of their aquariums. These can be very important ‘must haves’ such as a protein skimmer and circulation pumps, or labour saving devices such as an automated evaporation top-up device or calcium reactor.
There is a variety of equipment to assist in the maintenance of a marine aquarium. Some are essential such as the heater/thermostat, others are supportive for example the auto top-up system. The calcium reactor is often supportive, but in some circumstances it can be argued that it is essential.
Please note that these are guideline numbers (apart from toxic items such as ammonia) - I can hear aquarists saying that theirs is different and their reef is fantastic!
The quality of the seawater in the aquarium is of paramount importance. There are basic parameters that need to be correct and stable, and one of these is pH. There isn’t going to be any scientific mumbo jumbo here, but the foundations of pH need to be understood. pH is a measurement of the acidity or alkalinity of the seawater. On the pH scale, 7 is neutral, 0 is acid, and 14 is alkaline. (Just for interest, sulphuric acid measures 0, and sodium hydroxide measures 14.)
Everyone who goes to the seaside for a day out or a holiday and has a paddle or a swim knows that a mouthful of water is salty. This saltiness is important, and the level of it. Livestock that comes from the wild reefs is used to stability, and this stability requirement also applies in the aquarium.
The salinity of the marine aquarium is one of the major parameters that must be routinely checked. Salinity can change because of evaporation, and it is important to keep it stable. Daily top-ups of the water to a pre-determined level is an easy way, or using an auto top-up device.
The reef aquarium with hard corals (SPS) is the desire of many an aquarist. The sight of pictures on the internet and in books only serves to increase that desire. With modern aquaria and equipment, plus the knowledge gained over recent years, this desire can be met, and more easily than some suspect.
Keeping a seawater aquarium nowadays is a generally straightforward affair. Provided the design and setting up is satisfactory and the aquarist does the necessary periodic maintenance properly, the aquarium will give pleasure for a long period.
This is not a complete scientific discussion or description of alkalinity. It is simply intended as a base, as there isn’t a requirement for an aquarist to be a scientist and understand all. A basic understanding allows the aquarist to ensure the seawater in his/her aquarium is at the parameter desired and why.
Water hardness in the marine aquarium is important. The term ‘water hardness’ is maybe too general. It would probably be better to call it carbonate hardness. Another term that is perhaps more recognised in marine hobby circles is alkalinity.
Aquarists keeping cold water systems very often employ chillers (coolers) to prevent the seawater warming up excessively. Warm water systems that are in naturally warm areas may well need to do the same to prevent overheating.
The marine reef aquarist carries out routine changes to maintain the necessary high quality of the seawater. The life within the aquarium makes demands on the seawater and the aquarist needs to ensure that there is sufficient quantity to meet those demands.
Fresh water is used constantly by the marine aquarist, first when the aquarium is initially filled and then for ongoing routine water changes. Of course, an appropriate amount of dry salt mix is added. Fresh water is also used for evaporation top-ups. On the face of it using tap water seems reasonable - but is it?
Not more testing! Those aquarists with a reef aquarium will no doubt feel that they do enough already. The testing here is not of the aquarium seawater, it’s what goes into the aquarium in the form of routine seawater changes and evaporation top-ups. These routine seawater changes are designed to assist in maintaining high quality by replacing at least partially trace elements and ‘freshening’ generally. Taking this into account there doesn’t want to be anything being put into the aquarium that could be detrimental to it.
…and I don’t know why. I’ve live rock and everything seems fine at the moment, but I’m worried.. These words are quite understandable. Over and over again mention is made of seawater quality and how important it is - in fact seawater quality is the number one requirement, ahead of lighting (for a reef aquarium). So concerns in this direction are quite correct.
Live rock is so called because it bears some of the tougher life forms that have survived the processes between the wild and the dealer’s sale tanks. In addition it harbours beneficial bacteria that are able to deal with ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
In the salt water aquarium a deep sand bed (DSB) is a very positive addition to the system. In addition to its filtration capabilities, it is interesting in its own right. Why so interesting? This is because, if the DSB is functioning properly, it will have a population of tiny life forms that have made it their home. In fact, a population of these creatures is important as this assists the DSB to function correctly.
Ensuring that the aquarium is level is important. Sometimes if it is slightly out of level it doesn’t matter as the water surface is often above the lowest part of the aquarium hood, or there is a black band on the aquarium to hide the water surface. If the water level can be seen it needs to be visually correct, and in any case it is best if the stand is level in any circumstance for support.
When I constructed my aquarium cabinet out of pine great pains were taken for strength and accuracy. An aquarium full of seawater, rocks and sand is very heavy. Improper construction could leave to a very unwanted disaster.
Routine seawater changes are recommended for good reasons, for example minimising nitrate, re-introducing trace elements removed by protein skimming and/or activated carbon, and general freshening up.
Once the aquarium is up and running then the aquarist should stand back and admire it. This relaxing period is well deserved, after all a lot of time has been spent in planning and obtaining equipment never mind the cost of it all.
In some areas of the world, including mine, it isn’t often that the words “isn’t it warm” can be heard. Often it is the pitter-patter of rain, or in the winter the howl of winds and the formation of snow drifts. There are places in the world where it is always or mostly warm (coral reef areas are an obvious example). In the summer the weather can be warm and very pleasant where I live. Well, no problem with that says I! It can be a problem, though, if you keep a salt water aquarium.
The salt water aquarist runs tests to ensure that the water quality in his/her aquarium is up to scratch. One of the tests should be phosphate, particularly in the case of a reef system. Phosphate (PO4) is measurable in the sea and is a requirement of living organisms. It is present in a very small amount, 0.03 ppm (parts per million).
There are parameters that need to be monitored in any marine aquarium, though reef aquariums need the most tests. One check applicable to all marine systems is salinity which should be checked weekly. The instrument used is the hydrometer, which sounds very scientific but in fact is simple and easy to use. It must be one of the quickest tests that the aquarist performs.
The protein skimmer is a device that is essential to the maintenance of high quality seawater in nearly all systems. There is a system that claims to not need a skimmer, but aquarists often run one anyway. Using a protein skimmer is particularly useful to experienced aquarists and beginners alike.
We can have a seawater aquarium which is well designed, well stocked and fully mature. All the corals and/or fish are doing well. There isn’t any problem algae as water quality is very high. Yet there is one job that seemingly needs to be done in any aquarium, and that is to clean the aquarium glass so it is clear of the algae that appears on it.
There are various ways of improving the chances of success when designing a saltwater aquarium Using modern effective methods of filtration, correct and appropriate lighting and stocking properly are some examples.
Mention the word algae to a marine aquarist and the first thought is usually ‘marine nightmare’. Hair algae usually meets this criteria. It is unloved and unwanted. Strange to think that in the very early days of the marine aquarium the aquarist would be pleased to see the algae growth as it would improve the water quality by feeding on nutrients. Under good lighting, the algae also produces a lot of oxygen. That was true and still is, but nowadays all the aquarist wants is rid of it, or at least the excess growth. There are better ways of maintaining water quality.
The questions that arise about algae seem continuous, particularly those algae types that are considered a nuisance. New aquarists running a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium can be subjected to the displeasure of nuisance algae, and the methods of dealing with the problem are all basically the same with small variations.
These lovely and strange life forms are very endearing and become a household pet very easily. Children in particular seem to be fascinated by them. The care of seahorses is not to be undertaken lightly. They need very similar maintenance to a fish only marine system, so the requirement to carry out maintenance regularly needs to be accepted.
Disease in the aquarium is one of the main fears of aquarists. Once the presence of a disease is known the aquarist’s stress level shoots up and quite understandably so – at the worst there could be a full aquarium wipe-out.
Whatever type of marine system is kept lighting is important. With a fish only aquarium the fish need a day cycle and of course need to see where they are going.
…..I need a very basic list of needs for the basic marine system There are a lot of individual items about setting up a marine aquarium in the blog and article areas on this website, but nevertheless flicking around locating topics for a beginner who has little idea of the basics could be confusing. So an ‘in a nutshell’ list could be of help. We’re told it will be anyway, so here goes! Remember this is basic. At the end I’ve put article locations which could be of use.
Most marine systems are set up to house tropical livestock, which means that attention has to be given to maintaining a moderately high seawater temperature
The seas and oceans cover the majority of the planet surface. Within those seas the wild reefs have grown and all of their needs are met, be that calcium or whatever
Recently Approved Articles
Amino Acids are quickly becoming one of the most popular additives to any serious reef keeper’s arsenal. There are many different reasons why they are being used and many why I suggest everyone should use them.
Many aquarist’s have been bit by the red bug, or the monti nudibranches or flatworms etc etc. In this article I will explain a few ways to prevent these mishaps.
As an aquarium professional I would like to discuss the pressure our hobby as put on the worlds reefs and what we can do to minimize damage. First and foremost we must promote responsible reef keeping by learning and researching these wild animals we wish to care for out of their natural environment. Management through collector and consumer education as well as captive farming and aquaculture we can make this hobby sustainable.
The seas and oceans cover the majority of the planet surface. Within those seas the wild reefs have grown and all of their needs are met, be that calcium or whatever
Most marine systems are set up to house tropical livestock, which means that attention has to be given to maintaining a moderately high seawater temperature
…..I need a very basic list of needs for the basic marine system There are a lot of individual items about setting up a marine aquarium in the blog and article areas on this website, but nevertheless flicking around locating topics for a beginner who has little idea of the basics could be confusing. So an ‘in a nutshell’ list could be of help. We’re told it will be anyway, so here goes! Remember this is basic. At the end I’ve put article locations which could be of use.
Whatever type of marine system is kept lighting is important. With a fish only aquarium the fish need a day cycle and of course need to see where they are going.
Disease in the aquarium is one of the main fears of aquarists. Once the presence of a disease is known the aquarist’s stress level shoots up and quite understandably so – at the worst there could be a full aquarium wipe-out.
These lovely and strange life forms are very endearing and become a household pet very easily. Children in particular seem to be fascinated by them. The care of seahorses is not to be undertaken lightly. They need very similar maintenance to a fish only marine system, so the requirement to carry out maintenance regularly needs to be accepted.
There is understandably great fascination with some anemones, mainly because of their well known association with clownfish. Seeing these colourful little fish nestling in among what are normally dangerous tentacles is amazing.
Random Articles
We can have a seawater aquarium which is well designed, well stocked and fully mature. All the corals and/or fish are doing well. There isn’t any problem algae as water quality is very high. Yet there is one job that seemingly needs to be done in any aquarium, and that is to clean the aquarium glass so it is clear of the algae that appears on it.
For me I just love the sight of an anenomefish living in symbiosis with an anemone. An anemone which due to its very nature loves to eat fish and any other animal which fall prey to it. But not the anenomefish. It could be said I suppose that the anemone uses the anenomefish as a lure for other fish. Whatever it is it is a sight to behold.
When you start a saltwater aquarium and have purchased your live rock or whatever decorations you are going to use then there will probably not be that much coralline algae in the system (especially if you have chosen not to use live rock!) If you are using live rock then dependant upon the quality of the live rock you should have some coralline algae of some type or other.
Everyone who goes to the seaside for a day out or a holiday and has a paddle or a swim knows that a mouthful of water is salty. This saltiness is important, and the level of it. Livestock that comes from the wild reefs is used to stability, and this stability requirement also applies in the aquarium.
For once this is not a mistake of a beginner aquarist. This time it is the aquarist who has been ‘at it’ for a good while. A time period cannot be placed on the problem or its likely occurrence. It could appear after months or a couple of years. More likely it will be longer than that. At the other end, ‘New Tank Syndrome’ is a beginner’s mistake. The aquarium of whatever type was set up and the novice, itching with impatience, started to stock too early. Perhaps the bio-filtration was matured reasonably, but then stocking was too rapid and problems, or even disaster struck.
Ensuring that the aquarium is level is important. Sometimes if it is slightly out of level it doesn’t matter as the water surface is often above the lowest part of the aquarium hood, or there is a black band on the aquarium to hide the water surface. If the water level can be seen it needs to be visually correct, and in any case it is best if the stand is level in any circumstance for support.
The marine reef aquarist carries out routine changes to maintain the necessary high quality of the seawater. The life within the aquarium makes demands on the seawater and the aquarist needs to ensure that there is sufficient quantity to meet those demands.
Keeping a seawater aquarium nowadays is a generally straightforward affair. Provided the design and setting up is satisfactory and the aquarist does the necessary periodic maintenance properly, the aquarium will give pleasure for a long period.
Aquarists keeping cold water systems very often employ chillers (coolers) to prevent the seawater warming up excessively. Warm water systems that are in naturally warm areas may well need to do the same to prevent overheating.
The salt water aquarist runs tests to ensure that the water quality in his/her aquarium is up to scratch. One of the tests should be phosphate, particularly in the case of a reef system. Phosphate (PO4) is measurable in the sea and is a requirement of living organisms. It is present in a very small amount, 0.03 ppm (parts per million).