The Banded Coral Shrimp
November 20, 2008
There are a few shrimps that find favour with reef aquarists. Two favourites are the cleaner shrimps Lysmata amboinensis and Lysmata grabhami. Another is the banded coral shrimp, often called the banded boxing shrimp, properly called Stenopus hispidus.
Have a look:
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Image:Stenopus_hispidus_1.jpg
Where the common name comes from is partly obvious as the bands on the shrimp are quite clear. The ‘boxing’ bit comers from the way the pincers are held.
This shrimp gives the reef aquarist the opportunity to keep something ‘different’ and interesting. Of course, there must not be any livestock resident that could pose a threat to the shrimp. The shrimp is reef safe. It is very common in retail outlets.
The shrimp requires security and will often take up residence in a small cave, which is why the reef aquarium is a good habitat. It is used to fairly dim light but usually adapts quite quickly to the normal brightness of the captive reef.
Feeding is straightforward as the shrimp will take pieces of small de-frozen lance fish, mussel and the like directly offered to it. Once acclimatized the shrimp will normally rise to take the food from the aquarist’s fingers, though usually they are not quite as confident as cleaner shrimps which often walk on the aquarist’s submerged hand.
When the shrimp arrives at its new home it must be acclimatized properly. This is not because the shrimp is particularly delicate as it isn’t being fairly hardy in a good environment. Shrimps are sensitive to sudden changes in seawater quality so it is best to adjust to the home aquarium seawater slowly, and one good method is to use an air line and air line clamp. Empty half the seawater from the travel container and allow the aquarium seawater to drip in, the drip speed being short of a slow continuous trickle. Allow the seawater in the container to reach the previous level. Some aquarists carry out this procedure twice. When transferring the shrimp to the aquarium do not allow it to be exposed to air.
Unlike cleaner shrimps, boxing shrimps should be kept singly. If they are not, it is likely that the aquarist will end up with only one anyway. This is because males will fight. If it is definitely known that a couple are a pair then fine, but this would be unusual. Additionally, it is reported that if the boxing shrimp is kept with other shrimp types it is possible they will be aggressive and kill them. I don’t dispute this but did in one earlier aquarium keep two cleaner shrimps and one boxing shrimp in a 4 ft aquarium and never had a problem. Perhaps I was fortunate. The cleaner shrimps were noted to always give way and get out of the way of the boxing shrimp.
Another danger to the boxing shrimp is anemones. It would seem that the shrimp could be kept successfully in small aquariums and so they can. However, if an anemone is present the shrimp will sooner or later be caught as they have long antennae and need to maneuver.
As with other shrimps they need to molt. This is because there is a requirement to grow and the hard exoskeleton will not permit this. Therefore the shrimp discards the old exoskeleton and creates a new one. It is at this time that shrimps are most vulnerable as it takes a little time for the new exoskeleton to harden. It is likely the shrimp will go into hiding for this period. When the old exoskeleton has been successfully removed there remains a perfect replica of the shrimp. It is quite easy to jump to the conclusion that the shrimp has died.
If regard is given to the few restrictions mentioned the boxing shrimp will provide interest and entertainment for a long period.
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Tags: aquarium, aquarium shrimp, aquarium-livestock, invertebrate, marine-aquarium, reef-tankHere’s A List Of Active Aquarium Forums
November 19, 2008
Having a marine aquarium of whatever type is a wonderful individual hobby. It’s also really good to have someone to talk to about it, exchanging ideas, opinions and stories.
The very best way is to have local friends who are aquarists. They ideally are marine enthusiasts, but could be keepers of brackish or fresh water systems.
If there aren’t any friends about who are also aquarists, there’s sometimes a club or society where sitting and gossiping over a coffee or something a little stronger can take place.
Then of course there’s the communication channel available to very nearly everyone, the internet. There’s a wealth of information available. However, searching for specifics can sometimes be quite long winded so there’s an alternative, and that is the forum where questions can be asked. There’s one on this website.
There are plenty of forums available and finding one that is suitable and liked is great. One or two deal in advanced subjects, but the majority have specific discussion areas for various topics.
Here are some forums listed, with thanks to ‘Muzzy’s Reef’.
http://www.muzzys-reef.co.uk/reef-forums.htm
Tags: aquarium, aquarium-articles, aquarium-forum, aquarium-information, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium
Seawater In The Aquarium
November 18, 2008
Seawater is very important in the marine aquarium - not a big surprise really! It needs to be of high quality and kept that way.
There is an article titled as above on the Marine Depot website. It was supplied to Marine Depot by Aquarists Online and I thought I’d bring it to your attention as it should be of interest to anyone, particularly relatively new aquarists. The article deals with many aspects of seawater and what can happen to it as it ages. There are a good few positive comments about the article from readers.
The link is below. While on the website why not have a look around.
http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=10686&query=Seawater+in+the+Aquarium
Tags: aquarium, Aquarium Filter, Aquarium Water, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, Water Quality
Marine Aquarium Equipment - The No. 1
November 17, 2008
The aquarist nowadays has quite a choice of support equipment available. All this aquarium equipment, along with routine seawater changes, makes keeping high quality seawater easier. This is very important for the livestock be they fish or corals or whatever.
‘High quality seawater’ means something a little different to each aquarist. One aquarist may keep a fish only system, another a soft coral reef, and another a hard coral (SPS) system. The quality depends on what is being demanded.
Basic high quality is seawater without any toxins (ammonia and nitrite), at the correct pH, at the correct temperature and with a low nitrate presence. The quality is generally stable.
Basic seawater could be found in a fish only system. Nitrate is the usual problem with these, if there is a problem.
In the soft coral reef, in addition to the ‘basic’ quality, will be the alkalinity level and possibly also the calcium presence. Alkalinity resists changes in pH, and also appears to assist in the appearance of encrusting decorative algae. There is also a low demand for calcium, which could be met by the dry salt mix or, if not, by an additive.
The hard SPS (small polyp stony) coral reef has the same requirements as the soft coral one but again with additions. The aquarist will keep a closer watch on calcium and perhaps one or two others. SPS corals have a higher demand for calcium and, depending on stocking, it probably will not be met by the dry salt mix so an additive is required. In the larger aquarium, a calcium reactor could be used.
The above paragraphs are not meant to be a list of different system requirements, only to give a start to the support equipment needed and the choice of ‘the most important’. Of course it can be argued that all are important for the needs of different systems. How about an auto top-up system for example, particularly on larger aquariums? Keeping the level correct reduces salinity instability. In the same way there are calcium reactors, exterior heater controllers, kalkwasser stirrers, lighting timers, powerheads for seawater movement, return pumps for use in a sump etc.
Specific equipment is important to a particular system, and perhaps useful but less important to another. So is there a general piece of equipment that could be of use, or better put, is of use to all systems?
What is it that often rears its unwanted head and can cause trouble for the aquarist? Unsightly algae could appear which, if present in quantity, may drive the aquarist to near despair and spoil an otherwise lovely display. More sensitive corals and even fish are affected by too high a presence. It could appear in any type system, fish only, soft or SPS reef.
Nitrate is the answer. In a reef system the guideline is 10 ppm (parts per million) or less - in a fish only preferably the same, but at least as low as possible. Nitrate is controlled by proper stocking (particularly fish), careful feeding and routine partial seawater changes. Nevertheless, nitrate is often in excess.
Nitrate is a product of the nitrogen cycle which occurs in the bio-filter. Bacteria convert toxins and eventually the resulting nitrate (if live rock is in use in sufficient quantity and quality) is broken down and released from the seawater as a gas. Yet nitrate could get to excess levels despite this. Where the bio-filter is contained in a canister filter the nitrate is the end product and without care will continue to rise.
This is our clue - what piece of equipment can be of use in all systems and combat nitrate? The answer of course is the protein skimmer. This piece of well known equipment is benevolent to all system types (except specific ‘mud’ though many aquarists use a protein skimmer anyway).
Generally seawater moves through the skimmer steadily and dissolved organic matter (DOM) is removed. This improves the seawater straightaway as excessive DOM is not required. (It is known that corals, or at least some of them, can make use of DOM as a food source, but DOM should not be in excess.)
What is really good is that the DOM is removed entirely from the seawater and stored. Not being in the seawater the bacteria in the bio-filter cannot act on it, in other words it is no longer a source for nitrate. The protein skimmer is not the total answer for nitrate but is very helpful.
Even without that aspect, just look at the yukky brown smelly gunk that could appear in the collection cup. It must be better with that out of the seawater!
So, disregarding equipment that is essential to life itself such as heaters, my choice for the number one piece of general marine system support equipment is the protein skimmer.
Tags: Aquarium Filtration, Aquarium Water, Care, Equipment, Protein Skimmer, Water Quality
Two Small Spectacular Fishes
November 16, 2008
The words ‘marine’ and ‘spectacular’ seem to go hand in hand. Consider corals in all their diversity and splendour. The corals don’t have it all their own way; there are spectacular marine fish as well.
Many of the colourful fish available are medium to large in size. There are the butterfly fish with their various markings and colours, and, usually larger, the angel fish which require a large aquarium. There are small fish that could be considered for the aquarium of more moderate size, and one that comes immediately to mind are the dwarf angels (Centropyge sp). These have been called ‘God’s gift to aquarists.”’
There’s another two fish that are good for the smaller aquarium, and they have wonderful markings and colours. Their shape and method of movement is different as well. These are the Psychedelic fish properly called Synchiropus picturatus and the Mandarin fish properly called Synchiropus splendidus. These two fish don’t so much swim as move about on the rocks in jerks using their pectoral fins.
Overall the group of fish (there are more than the two mentioned) are called Dragonets. Usually they do not get bigger than 2¼” (circa 6cm) or so and this immediately makes them interesting to smaller aquarium owners. They have quite a large head with the eyes on top. The mouth is small and points forward. When the fish feed they don’t bite at the food but have a movement more like a peck or jab.
The fish should not be kept with predatory species or those that are very active and inquisitive. What they do need is rocks and a reef aquarium is ideal for them, not only because the reef is obviously rocks but because the fish in a reef system are generally more likely to be friendly. It is possible that the fish may have a ‘testing’ taste of small colonial anemones but overall they are considered to be reef safe.
The best habitat for the fish is the reef constructed of live rock. This is because live rock is more likely to harbour all the tiny crustaceans etc upon which the fish naturally feed, and this is the problem. This does not mean that the fish can only be kept with a live rock reef. They can be kept with reefs constructed of other inert rocks provided that over time, with the addition of coral rocks, they have been well populated with tiny life forms. This usually means the aquarium needs to be very mature.
There would have to be a problem wouldn’t there! The fish should take brine and mysis shrimp but need for their well being the live natural food. The aquarium therefore needs to be mature, which is beyond the ‘mature’ that is talked of when the bio-filter has a full population of bacteria. This time ‘mature’ means fully settled with the aquarist’s choice livestock, and the reef having a good population of tiny prey for the fish. We’re talking of an aquarium at least a year old, preferably more.
Another reason why there needs to be a good population of live prey is that the fish are not good competitors at feeding time. Other fish are more mobile and faster swimmers. The main reason, however, is ongoing health, in the same way as surgeon fish require algae.
In addition to the requirements mentioned it is important that in the confines of an aquarium there is not over-competition for the tiny prey. Subject to the size of the aquarium only one fish should be kept, giving it the whole reef to cover as its hunting territory. If the aquarium is 6 ft long with a reef to suit then two could be kept.
The fish are very tempting when seen in the shop as they are so colourful and small. The temptation should be fully resisted except by experienced aquarists, who in turn should only purchase them when they can provide the reef maturity and companion livestock the fish need.
Have a look at these beauties:
http://animalpicturesarchive.com/view.php?tid=3&did=31150
http://animalpicturesarchive.com/view.php?tid=3&did=24277
Tags: aquarium-fish, marine aquarium. home aquarium, marine-fish, reef-tank, saltwater-aquarium
Why The Emphasis On Seawater Movement?
November 15, 2008
Seawater quality is a high priority in a marine system, and without it the aquarist is going to have niggles and problems. Maintaining seawater quality nowadays is easier with all the technical support equipment available, for example the protein skimmer and the high quality dry salt mixes that are commercially produced.
Even with seawater mixed properly and equipment fitted correctly, the quality story doesn’t end there. There is another important requirement and that is adequate seawater movement. Without this the aquarist will still likely be faced with niggles and problems. It could be argued that movement is a part of seawater quality as it contributes to it so significantly.
Before going further a mention of the guidelines for movement should be made. Note that these are guidelines and not rules. They provide a basis which could be altered if the need arose. In a fish only aquarium seawater movement should be around 10 times the net gallonage in the display aquarium. In a soft coral system the same guideline applies. In a hard coral (SPS) system the movement should be around 20 times the net gallonage in the display aquarium. Note that these guidelines are for the display aquarium only, if a sump is used this is not included in the gallonage calculation.
With adequate movement any temperature differentials will be minimized, and the heater’s controlling thermostat will more likely read the average temperature and react correctly. A temperature differential could occur for example in an area where there is very sluggish movement as the seawater enters and exits the area very slowly. If there is adequate seawater movement overall then as said the heater thermostat will read the overall temperature more correctly. There are always areas in a system where the seawater flow is lower, for example in and under reef rockwork or in the corners of the aquarium. It is sluggish flow that needs to be avoided.
Fish will be healthy and more settled, all things being equal, where there is good movement. It is reported that in sluggish or still seawater fish could be surrounded by a thin ‘dead’ area that interferes with their osmosis needs. In any case, on the wild reef the seawater isn’t usually sluggish and life adapts to its normal environment over a long period of time.
Where there is a reef with soft and/or hard corals, movement is very important. Corals rely on movement to bring food to them, and at the same time remove mucus and dirt. Coral extension should be better with adequate movement and, again all things being equal, growth and colour should be good.
The following is probably the most important aspect of ensuring that seawater movement is as it should be. There is an ongoing requirement in a marine system for stability and there should be nothing that could affect this.
Gas exchange is often mentioned in relation to marine systems, and this simply means the exchange of gases at air/water interfaces. Unwanted gas escapes and another, oxygen, is taken in. Air/water interfaces are the seawater surface in the display aquarium and also in the sump if one is used which are the most important, and also seawater flowing over weirs and down overflow pipes. Some equipment presents an air/water interface, for example the protein skimmer.
If there is to be adequate gas exchange it follows that the seawater must continually move to the surface and away again. Where movement is adequate this happens and the seawater from all parts of the aquarium meets an air/water interface. Movement is often more vigorous in the upper areas of the aquarium but this doesn’t matter provided the lower areas are moved reasonably also.
Everyone knows that life forms require oxygen, including humans. Fish etc have less available to breathe than humans – there is about twenty times more in the air than there is in warm seawater. Cold fresh water holds more oxygen than warm fresh water, and warm fresh water holds more than cold seawater. As the seawater temperature increases, so there is less oxygen. In a reef aquarium that is well designed and maintained the oxygen content is around 6 to 8 ppm (yes, that’s right, about 6 to 8 parts per million! Not a great deal). The fish and other life have a constant demand for oxygen and so it must be constantly replenished or, particularly in a heavily stocked fish only aquarium, there will be problems. An example of how a dangerous state can arise with oxygen levels is where a lengthy power cut occurs and all seawater movement has stopped. The fish etc continue to breathe of course, and eventually the oxygen content of the seawater drops very low. The fish will eventually probably come to the surface and gasp as there is some remaining oxygen in that area, they might even extend their mouths above the surface in a desperate attempt to breathe. If the seawater circulation returns in time the situation will remedy itself and all should return to normal.
Good seawater movement is going to provide adequate oxygen, which will be moved to all areas of the aquarium ensuring that all life has a supply. One very essential area that needs the oxygen is the bio-filter. Those hardworking friends of the aquarist, the bacteria, are oxygen hungry and must have an adequate supply to function (those that convert the toxins anyway).
Talking of bacteria and bio-filters, aquarists using live rock have the advantage that the whole of the nitrogen cycle should be achieved, which are the conversion of toxins and the reduction of nitrate. When the bacteria remove oxygen from the nitrate so breaking the nitrate down, the result is released as gaseous nitrogen. It is released at air/water interfaces so again circulation is important.
There isn’t any intention of delving into chemistry as there isn’t a need here, but seawater could be adversely affected if there is poor circulation - as gases cannot easily be released from the seawater pressure increases for the seawater to react in an unwanted way. There could be a reduction in pH for example. Stability is required and good seawater movement goes a long way to provide it.
Creating seawater movement is straightforward and could only need for example two powerheads, though the need will vary from system to system. Linear seawater movement is not required and a little experimentation with positioning the powerheads should produce chaotic or more random movement, which is required. Whatever method to move the seawater is used, the livestock will demonstrate their appreciation with better health and colour.
Tags: Aquarium Water, Care, Equipment, powerhead, water pump, Water Quality
Tube Anemones
November 14, 2008
Tube anemones (Cerianthus sp) are fairly commonly seen in local fish shops (LFS’s). They are different and very attractive. They remind me a little of ‘feather dusters’ in how they live, and also of some fireworks in appearance. The ‘pretty’ fireworks that is, where colourful flames and sparks exit the tube a little way before curving over downwards. There are around 50 tube anemone species in the world.
In the aquarium they should prove to be generally hardy - the usual demands for a quality environment are required. The area in which they are located should not have strong seawater movement because of the long tentacles - it is better if it is fairly weak. The lighting that falls on the anemone should not be strong, but moderate to weak. There is another essential requirement and that is sand for them to bury into. The sand depth should be in the region of 3½” to 4½” (circa 9cm to 11.5cm), though deeper sand does no harm. The sand should be coarse and from coral. Those who do not want a decorative sand bed (the depths given are deeper than the normal decorative 1″ to 2″) could consider using a marine safe plastic box full of sand. The edges of the box would need to spread 2″ to 3 beyond the anemone’s tube edge. This could solve the potential for a dirty sand bed. A deep sand bed (DSB) is constructed of very fine sand and is not really suitable.
The anemone has a long tube which is made up of secreted mucus and sand. It extends down into the sand and forms a home and anchor for the anemone. As the tube is quite slender and pointed, it would be possible for it to come out of the sand, so the anemone can create an expanded tube or bulb at the bottom, which prevents this.
It has been reported that if the aquarist does not want sand in the aquarium a plastic tube is sometimes successful. The plastic should be marine safe and a little wider than the anemone, ensuring that the length is more than adequate. The tube can be placed in the aquarium - between rocks for example - where it will not visually intrude and the anemone put into it. Any plastic showing should be covered in encrusting algae growth fairly quickly and the anemone should hopefully be secure and healthy.
The anemone will be on full display when waiting for food capture. If a threat is perceived the anemone will disappear into its tube at very high speed.
As with other anemones, the tube anemones have defensive/offensive weapons. These are the nematocysts, or stingers, that lie curled like spring loaded barbed harpoons until released. They carry venom and this could cause problems if the aquarist does not exercise sufficient care.
The anemones must be located away from all other corals, colonial anemones etc as the sting is strong and could cause severe damage, even killing neighbours. The tentacles are long and therefore have a long reach. The anemones live singly in the wild and should be kept away from each other. Similarly, the aquarist should not put slow moving and less agile small fish in the aquarium, because if they come into contact with the anemone they are likely to become lunch or be badly stung.
Feeding is straightforward as the anemones will take small pieces of defrosted mussel, shrimp or similar - ensure the food is cut very small. Brine or mysis shrimp could also be target fed. The food just needs to fall among the tentacles. Do not overfeed, two perhaps three times a week is enough.
As with other types of livestock, if the needs of the tube anemone are met then the aquarist will be rewarded with a lovely and ‘different’ display.
The following link has photographs of these lovely anemones.
http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?=Anemones&species=Cerianthus%20species%204
Tags: aquarium-fish, aquarium-livestock, Corals, Fish, Invertebrates, marine-aquarium
Controlling Fish Tank Diseases
November 13, 2008
Disease in the aquarium is one of the main fears of aquarists. Once the presence of a disease is known the aquarist’s stress level shoots up and quite understandably so - at the worst there could be a full aquarium wipe-out.
When the word disease is mentioned most straightaway think of fish, but it is not only fish that could have problems, it is corals too.
I’ve not got any magic formula that will ensure that disease will never appear. What all aquarists do have available to them is straightforward common sense.
The very first requirement in building a wall to defend against disease is the aquarium system itself. Design in other words. Everything should be dedicated to the overall needs of the system, and that is stability and seawater quality. They go hand in hand anyway so it is likely that one will give the other. The heaters employed should be able to maintain the temperature with a low variation, say + or - 1 deg F. The powerheads that drive the seawater circulation should turn it over sufficiently; the guidelines are around 10 times the net gallonage of the display aquarium per hour for fish only and soft coral systems, and around 20 times the net gallonage of the display aquarium per hour for hard coral (SPS) systems. In addition, the seawater movement should not be linear, but should be random and chaotic. Sufficient seawater movement will also ensure that there is enough oxygen - a very important point. There should be a quality protein skimmer that is known to be capable of handling the net gallonage of the system. The aquarist could consider the use of a UV filter, which will kill or severely damage parasites exposed to the light (some use them, some not, but they are useful though not a complete answer in themselves).
The bio-filter, that is the filter that houses the indispensable bacteria that rid the aquarium of toxins (ammonia and nitrite), should be efficient and of an adequate size to deal with the aquarium bio-load. There should be sufficient live rock if that is the aquarist’s choice, and it should be of sufficient quality. In a reef system the reef structure is often completely constructed of live rock and so should be adequate, particularly as the fish load is less to preserve seawater quality. However, in a fish only system a full reef may not be constructed so care needs to be taken to ensure the quantity is adequate, particularly with the normally larger fish load.
If the aquarist uses a canister or similar as the bio-filter then it needs to be large enough to cope with the size of the system and its bio-load - in other words, it must be capable of moving sufficient seawater through enough bio-media.
In the case of a reef system, the lighting should be adequate for the corals, giving an adequate spectrum and intensity, and consideration should be given to the depth of the aquarium with regard to light penetration.
When the aquarium is up and running, the aquarist must be sure that the bio-filter is ‘mature’, that is, it has sufficient bacteria present to deal with the bio-load. The bio-load itself should be increased slowly, particularly with fish, giving time for the bacteria to adjust to the work facing them.
Selecting livestock is the next line of defence. When corals are selected they should be judged very carefully when still in the sale aquarium, and they should be compatible with the system and their intended neighbours. The same applies to fish - before purchase the aquarist needs to ensure they will be compatible with the aquarium system type (reef or fish only). There are texts available advising what to look for, including on aquaristsonline.com.
The stocking level of the reef or fish only system should not be exceeded. Temptation could arise ‘down the line’ when all is well. Why not put one or two more fish in, what harm could it do? It could be a step too far, beginning a slow deterioration in seawater quality and an increase in aggression among fish or corals.
Ongoing quality husbandry, that is maintenance of the system, is essential. Maintenance is sometimes the first thing to deteriorate, because all looks well and missing this or that just once or twice surely won’t matter! It’s the beginning of the slippery slope to problems including potential disease because of diminishing environmental quality and should be avoided. Routine seawater changes should be completed. The protein skimmer should be cleaned at least once, better twice, a week. Mechanical filter media should be cleaned. Pumps and powerheads should be checked to ensure continuing adequate output. Activated carbon, anti-phosphate resin and the like should be renewed on time. The same goes for lighting tubes or bulbs.
Feeding should be adequate for the dietary requirements of the livestock. Feeding should not be overdone - overfeeding is one of the causes of poor seawater quality which could and often does mean trouble.
The major concern in anti-disease efforts should be prevention, the best control of all. If the livestock are not stressed because everything is supporting a high quality environment the danger of a disease outbreak is reduced. There is the danger of a disease problem being introduced with livestock, and it is the aquarist’s knowledge and careful eye when selecting inmates that is the best guard against this.
The marine hobby sometimes seems complicated with all the equipment available, the different systems and the different livestock that could be introduced. The basics however are not complicated and only require a little effort to understand and follow.
Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, Care, fish-disease, fish-tank, marine-fish
DIY Aquarium Stand Resources
November 12, 2008
There are quite a few reasons as to why an aquarist would consider building their own aquarium stand.
- The current financial climate is one that springs to mind. It is a lot cheaper to build your own than purchase ‘off the shelf’
- The challenge and satisfaction of designing and building your own stand
- The actual enjoyment of doing a bit of do it yourself
From a personal point of view I believe that I am a mixture of the above. I like to save a bit of money where I can, I like the challenge and I enjoy doing it.
There are some people who are capable of building things without the need for plans or looking at ways in which other people have built similar items however I believe that it is a good idea to see how other people have done things. There may be a better way of achieving the same result. An example that springs to mind is the creation of an aquarium stand for an in-wall aquarium - does this need to be made from wood - it could be made from builing blocks, metal etc.
Anyway for this reason I thought it might be useful to create a list of website resources where information on DIY aquarium stands can be located. Some of these site detail plans to build your own stands, others detail how the owner of the site actually built their stand and others simply give ideas.
I hope that you find this list useful. If you know of any other sites which provide this type of information which is not listed either let us know so that we can add it to the list or leave a comment below so that others can benefit from it.
Anyway on with the list…
Aquarium Stand Plans - Cost Associated eBook
How To Build An Aquarium Stand
Building Your Own Stand Calculator
Build An ADA Style Aquarium Stand
How To Build A DIY Aquarium Stand
Build A Strong, Inexpensive Aquarium Stand
DIY Aquarium Stand - First Ever Woodworking Project
Tips For Creating A DIY ADA Stand
Constructed DIY Aquarium Stand Projects
Easy, Inexpensive DIY Aquarium Stand Project
Double 55 Gallon Aquarium Stand
DarkDep’s DIY Sturdy Tank Stand And Canopy - Part 1
DarkDep’s DIY Sturdy Tank Stand And Canopy - Part 2
DarkDep’s DIY Sturdy Tank Stand And Canopy - Part 3
DarkDep’s DIY Sturdy Tank Stand And Canopy - Part 4
Building Your Own Aquarium Stand For Tanks 10 To 125 Gallons
Build Your Own Aquarium Stand For Tanks Up To 500 Gallons
Build Your Own Aquarium Stand For Large Tanks
Tags: aquarium, aquarium-stand, DIY, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, reef-tank
We’re Back…
November 11, 2008
At last - the website(s) are restored!
We have been working with our hosting company over the past couple of days to see what has happened and attempt to rectify the issue which also attempting to ensure that it does not happen again.
According to the host it appears to be due to a synchronisation/replication issue where the databases, code etc behind Aquarists Online, Aqua Compare etc was moved to another host and something has gone wrong during the transfer.
The data transfer may have been initiated as we have started to run out of disk space and have started to reach our monthly bandwidth limit so a short while ago we upgraded our hosting package to give us more disk space as well as more bandwidth.
In the end various areas of the website(s) had to be restored from tape backup to restore the site(s). This does mean that if any comments have been left, articles submitted etc since the 9th November these will have unfortunately been lost.
This is the reason why we have not posted for a couple of days. We did not want to post any articles only for them to be overwritten if we had to perform a tape restore.
Now the restore is complete we can get back to posting articles. We’ve been writing some over the past couple of days so we have a couple already lined up!
I have done as many tests as I can think of both behind the scenes as well as from the front end and I am not able to find any anomolies. This does not mean that there aren’t any it could just be that I can’t find them. Therefore if you find something which is not right then please can I ask that you let us know.
Again, apologies for this inconvenience.
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