SPS Corals - Are They For The Beginner?

More than two decades ago the marine aquarist would be pleased if fish survived in the aquarium, never mind corals of any type. The aquarium would have a fairly deep coarse sand bed, and underneath the sand would be an under-gravel filter plate. Another filtration method was a canister filter.

Canister filters can still be put to good use but for the most part under-gravel filters have seen their day. However, the advance of aquarium technology has changed a lot of things. No longer are marine aquariums decorated with white dead coral skeletons on a sand base, they have rock structures (often live rock) with just fish, or contain a full captive reef.

Having a living reef in an aquarium was an impossible dream to those earlier aquarists. Now, though, aquarists can achieve water quality at a high level by using commonly available equipment, and just as important can keep the quality high. Many of the captive reefs that are kept by ordinary aquarists are stunning, whatever the size of aquarium. They are so good that potential aquarists see them and are often persuaded to go to the local marine store to see what is available. Once at that point they are very nearly committed.

So should a potential aquarist consider corals at all? If so, should SPS (small polyp stony) corals be considered?

The ideal answer is ‘no.’ For the sake of the livestock, it would be better if the new aquarist obtained experience before moving to corals. This does not prohibit the keeping of marine fish - in fact, with a fish only aquarium the aquarist could keep some fish that are unsuitable to the captive reef, and also more of them. A really colourful and interesting display is obtainable.

The important point about keeping fish only is that it permits time for experience to develop - experience in maintenance. Ongoing maintenance is essential for success with an aquarium of any type, and particularly with a reef of SPS corals and their particular demands. It allows the aquarist to experience feeding techniques, one area that is more than likely to cause grief with seawater quality. All the required maintenance will become routine and used to, and that other essential will also develop - patience.

However, as said, the above describes, to my mind anyway, an ideal world, having fish only to start with. In the real world, the new aquarist is faced with enormous temptation. All the equipment available suggests that ‘it isn’t hard’, and indeed it isn’t - all things into consideration. The one thing that will never change is that no matter how much sophisticated equipment there might be, if the basics understood by the aquarist are lacking, which of course includes the necessities of husbandry, there are going to be problems or even failure.

So let’s consider the aquarist who is looking to set up a reef tank and cannot be dissuaded. Fair enough.

From the outset it needs to be understood that the fish that could be kept will be restricted. The types kept must be ‘reef friendly’, but there are plenty of those. The number of fish in the aquarium needs to be restricted, and this restriction applies to size as well as actual numbers. There could be, say, two largish surgeons or four small 2″ or 3″ size other fish. (This is not a guideline, just an ‘out of the air’ example.) Larger fish in ones put pressure on seawater quality equivalent to smaller fish in greater numbers.

Ok, so the aquarist wants to keep corals and accepts there will be restrictions on fish numbers. So SPS corals?

Again, I would attempt to dissuade the newcomer from taking the plunge into SPS corals. Look at the unarguably beautiful soft corals with their lovely pastel shades, different shapes, and how some sway so attractively in the currents. Many aquarists prefer soft corals to the hard types (including me). The great thing about soft corals is that they are generally easier to keep (there are exceptions) and have a better chance of surviving the mistakes a beginner could make. Soft corals are generally available and make a very attractive display.

At this point most newcomers will have got the message. There will be some who are adamant that it is to be SPS corals or nothing. Ah well, ok.

I’ll now appear to contradict all that has been written above - there isn’t any reason why SPS corals cannot be kept by the beginner. But, the aquarist must be willing to sit down and learn and hopefully have a mentor, such as a friendly local experienced aquarist or a local dealer (who is genuinely interested in livestock welfare and not just sales). This is a good thing for any type aquarium system, but particularly so for what some see as the pinnacle of the hobby.

SPS corals make the most demands. The aquarist carries sole responsibility to meet those demands (as with any aquarium type). Just a couple of examples - to start with, seawater movement needs to be strong, so powerful and possibly more pumps or powerheads are required. Seawater quality has to be high, and within this there is a requirement to maintain, for example, a high calcium level. This will mean in a smaller aquarium using supplements, or in a larger one employing equipment such as a calcium reactor. This equipment needs maintenance and of course costs additionally in the first place. Then there is the lighting. This will need to be powerful, so metal halides will usually be employed. If the aquarium is a deep one, then higher wattage bulbs will be needed to permit sufficient light penetration. Along with heating, metal halide lighting is hungry for electricity, and electricity becomes ever more expensive.

There are those newcomers who have come into the aquarium hobby and made a success of it from the start. I bet they got down to it and did a lot of research and checking before making the final commitment.

There are also those newcomers who follow a list and set up an aquarium system, or buy a full system that is ‘plug and play’. All is fine at first, then problems arise, get worse, calls for help are made and after stress and possible livestock losses things are sorted out. The aquarist’s experience suddenly increased, at a cost.

Or there are those who join the hobby, do the research and find it straightforward. There may be the odd problem but it is sorted out. There may be the odd livestock loss. Overall, the aquarium is thought to be successful. Then it declines and is sold off. This is often because it is decided that the hobby is not for the aquarist. The ongoing maintenance becomes boring or gets in the way of other more tempting activities. Or, or maybe and, the cost of running the aquarium, mainly electricity, is high and perhaps too much.

I, along with other aquarists, want more newcomers to come into - and stay in - the hobby. The hobby is growing and that is a very healthy situation.

If experience is gained by advancing in steps, then the likelihood of problems is much diminished. Moving forward in steps reduces the danger to livestock - how sad it is that livestock is lost under any circumstance, there are considerable losses within the hobby and the majority of those are probably with newcomers. The newcomer will have found by experience the cost generally of running an aquarium and the effort required to maintain it and is more able to decide if the system should be upgraded to deal with more difficult livestock.

It is a personal opinion of course, but the answer to the title is “No.” Aquarium requirements seem to be confusing to many newcomers anyway, and, based on that, the ‘higher up’ the difficulty ladder the more confusion is going to arise.

Whatever marine system is set up, there are going to be demands. It is essential the aquarist understands the needs of the livestock and this means research and also experience.

It has been said that ‘knowledge is everything.’ It has also been said - ‘don’t build your house on sand.

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Tags: aquarium-fish, aquarium-livestock, Corals, marine reef, marine-aquarium, reef-tank

The Bubble Tip Anemone

There are a few anemones that find favour with aquarists and this is one of them. As well as the name in the title they are also commonly known as the four coloured anemone, the bulb tentacle anemone, and the bulb anemone. The proper name is Entacmaea quadricolor.

The anemone is one which requires good lighting as it contains symbiotic algae, and it is this algae that gives the anemone its colour. Good lighting is defined in the same way that lighting for corals is, and that is it must be sufficiently intense and of the correct spectrum. If the anemone is to be located quite low down in a deep aquarium then metal halides will be required.

Again in the same way as corals, good seawater movement is needed. This does not need to be particularly strong, just strong, moving the tentacles and swaying the body. Current from a power head should not hit the anemone directly.

The final requirement needed to settle the anemone happily in its home is to provide it with the correct position from a security point of view. When placing the anemone on the reef ensure that the anemone when fully open will not interfere with neighboring corals, but the most important point is to ensure that the foot of the anemone is located in a fairly deep crevice or hole, not a tight squeeze but a good generous loose fit. The anemone should anchor itself within the hole or crevice, which will also give it protection should it require it. It is unlikely that this will be needed in a home aquarium but the anemone doesn’t know this!

Failure to provide the named requirements, some of them, or one of them will either result in the demise of the anemone, or it will be very tiresome and start wandering around the aquarium looking for what is missing. I located an anemone in an earlier aquarium, meeting all the above needs, and it stayed put from the word go. Finally the anemone had to be removed as it just became too big.

Talking of size, the aquarist should be aware that this anemone could achieve a diameter of around 18″ (circa 45.75cm). Therefore it is not suitable for small aquariums; a length of say 48″ (circa 122cm) should be suitable.

It is my opinion that new aquarists without experience should not purchase this anemone (or any other) until such time as they have some experience. If the aquarist has kept an aquarium for a year successfully, that is, has maintained high seawater quality and the fish and corals have done and are doing well, then that is a reasonable time to consider an anemone.

Once in the aquarium a little time is needed for the anemone to indicate that it is settled. The indication is that it stays in one place, expands fully and is in good colour (meaning the algae are functioning therefore the lighting is acceptable).

Feeding is simplicity itself. First of all the anemone obtains nutrients from the symbiotic algae and feeding should not be overdone. When required, the anemone will accept a small piece of fish or mussel. This can be placed towards the mouth within the tentacles, when the anemone should respond and move the food to the mouth. Feed once or twice a week to start and build on experience.

This anemone in common with others contains nematocysts in the tentacles, which are like small harpoons that are activated on contact with a fish or shrimp. They penetrate the body of the victim and inject a toxin enabling the anemone to overpower and devour. There isn’t usually a distinction made for the aquarist’s prize livestock! Having said that, most fish seem to have an inbuilt instinct to keep away from the danger. I clearly recall becoming tense on more than one occasion when a lovely fish, intent on its search for food, seemed to be so, so close to the anemone ” but I didn’t lose any.

Many aquarists are keen to associate an anemone with a clownfish. Well, Entacmaea quadricolor is one of the anemones that act as hosts for clownfish. It is important not to overload an anemone with clownfish, usually one or maybe two is quite sufficient in an aquarium. No attempt should be made to host a clownfish until the anemone is known to be settled. The clownfish that are known to inhabit this anemone are Amphiprion clarki, Amphiprion ephippium, Amphiprion frenatus and Amphiprion melanopus.

It has been known, more than once, that a suitable clownfish has been placed in an aquarium containing a host anemone, only for the clownfish to totally ignore the anemone. Why this is I cannot say - is it because the fish was aquarium bred? If so, perhaps the fish doesn’t know it is supposed to live in an anemone! As said, I don’t really know. Fortunately, I have managed to obtain clownfish in the past that have been cooperative.

So if the aquarist has the experience and can provide the conditions, an anemone is worthwhile. If the anemone settles well and a clownfish (of the correct type) is introduced, then the aquarist will have the pleasure of seeing one of Nature’s strange and amazing combinations.

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Tags: anemone, aquarium-fish, aquarium-livestock, coral, invertebrate, marine-fish, reef-fish

Should You Use Glass Covers On An Aquarium?

Those aquarists who purchased a ready built aquarium will possibly find that glass covers are built in. They will either be ‘lift-out’ or sliding. The aquarium that’s been individually assembled by the aquarist has covers or not - another decision to be made.

If it is a fish only aquarium then there isn’t any lighting consideration to worry about. It is necessary to consider if any of the fish are known to be jumpers. If they are glass covers are usually the answer, though some aquarists use a fine mesh across the top. Where ‘jumpers’ are present, mesh is used in consideration of the oxygen requirements of the livestock as fish, particularly when heavily stocked, have a high demand. Leaving the seawater surface open to the air gives the largest gas exchange area the maximum exchange capability, provided seawater movement is adequate.

With a reef system lighting is a consideration, as most of the corals that are commonly kept on a captive reef need it at the correct intensity and spectrum. Some corals, though light loving, need less than others. Generally speaking, soft corals need less light than hard types. The glass covers need to be kept clean so that they cause minimal reduction in light intensity. Any material, including glass, will reduce light intensity to an extent. In addition, there are strengthening glass straps that run across front to back on many aquariums and another layer of glass above them will cause additional intensity reduction. I do not know what happens to spectrum if anything. Any change caused by float glass may well be minimal.

Consideration has also to be given to the type of lighting system in use. Glass covers do not usually present any problem with fluorescent tubes, but may well do so with metal halide bulbs. Metal halide lighting emits a lot of heat and this is one of the major problems for the aquarist. The emitted heat tends to warm up the seawater, and one way of cooling it down is to blow air across the surface using electric fans. This would be impossible with glass covers, which would allow heat to increase above the seawater surface. So the aquarist would be constantly checking the temperature situation in the ‘lights on’ period and removing the covers when necessary, whereas with an open top fanned air and heat escape is not a problem.

There is an advantage to using glass covers, and that concerns evaporation. Fresh water evaporates from the seawater leaving salt behind, and it is therefore important to maintain the seawater at the correct level, thus keeping the SG (specific gravity) constant. Some aquarists do top-ups manually, others with larger aquariums use automation. If glass covers are in use the rate of evaporation reduces significantly, as a large percentage of the evaporation occurs at the seawater surface. So the amount of RO (reverse osmosis) water required for topping up will be less. However, there is a disadvantage in this as well, and this is that when the lights turn on at the start of a new day there will be heavy condensation in the form of droplets on the underside of the glass. This will also have some impact on the lighting discussed earlier, until the heat from the lighting clears the droplets.

Twice, on two different aquariums, I have carried out an experiment with glass covers. Both aquariums contained a soft coral reef and were lit by an array of fluorescent tubes. For a measured period of six months I put glass covers on and watched for any changes in the corals. I was unable to detect any change at all on any coral either in growth or colour. They all remained in good health. The only noted differences were that evaporation reduced and I had to clean the covers weekly! I do not claim this to be a definitive result, but interesting nevertheless.

I do use the glass covers when I go on holiday, purely because it reduces evaporation and makes Peter’s caretaking job a little easier. When I am at home they are in storage.

It seems to me that the marine aquarist is better off not using covers. First of all, the light that is being paid for is maximized into the aquarium, and very importantly there isn’t any restriction to air reaching the seawater surface, thus as said maximizing gas exchange. Excessive heat can be more easily controlled. If there are any fish ‘jumpers’, then it is a simple matter to make a light wooden framework to fit the top area of the aquarium and stretch a small-hole mesh (not metal) across it. It would be just as easy to remove as glass covers. Finally, there aren’t any glass covers to clean or break.

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Tags: Aquarium Lighting, Aquarium Water, aquarium-temperature, Care, Equipment, marine-aquarium

Do Enough Aquarists Use Quarantine Tanks

Keeping a marine aquarium be this a fish only aquarium, a coral only aquarium or a mixed reef aquarium one thing you are definitely going to want to do is protect your livestock.

As aquarists we attempt to ensure that the water quality is optimum, the temperature is correct, the lighting is correct, the fish, corals etc are all well fed etc etc. Effectively we attempt to create an environment in which the animals we care for are able to flourish and grow.

So why is it that a lot of aquarists put their livestock at risk by not utilising a quarantine tank?

I always find it surprising how few people actually use a quarantine tank. It is exceptionally simple to set up and when not in use can be used as a hospital tank etc.

Perhaps it is a ‘it will not happen to me’ syndrome, perhaps it is lack of knowledge, maybe it is pure laziness I am not sure why a lot of people do not use one but it is of my opinion that every responsible aquarist should use one.

Think of it this way….

A fish only aquarium full of marine fish all living in harmony together. They are all thriving, well fed and happy. One day at a local fish shop the aquarist sees a fish in the shops aquarium and decides to purchase it. The fish is caught, bagged and once paid for taken home. It is slowly acclimatised to the water and released into the aquarium. For a while all seems well - the fish is feeding and getting on with other fish in the aquarium however other fish appear to be scratching on the sand and on the rockwork. Not sure at first the aquarist decides to watch the fish for a few days however over this time more fish are scratching and flicking. At this point the aquarists unsure what to do asks for help. Marine Ich is the probable answer however as live rock is used in the aquarium to filter it then medication can’t be used. It would be very hard to remove the fish to treat them and where would they be put anyway. Research reveals that garlic could be used and modifying the temperature may help so this is performed and slowly over time the aquarists starts to win the battle. Unfortunately though several fish died including the new one which was purchased.

Or how about…..

A mixed reef aquarium full of corals (soft, sps and lps) and fish which has been running for a while and the system looks wonderful however there is a gap where another coral could be sited. At the local fish shop the perfect specimen is identified. The lighting is all correct and the coral should fare well in its chosen place. The coral us subsequently purchased, bagged and transported home. It is acclimatised to the water and put in place. The coral is closed at first however over the next few days it starts to extend its polyps. Great - it looks lovely! However unknown to the aquarists some ‘bugs’ were on the coral which was introduced into the aquarium. These have now started moving around the aquarium and are effecting other corals in the aquarium - primarily the sps. Some of the sps are turning white, others look dead and other looks the worse for wear. Careful investigation shows that this can be treated in a mixed reef aquarium with live rock as filtration so the aquarium is subsequently treated and the aquarium slowly starts to recover. Eventually all the bugs appear to be gone however several corals are lost including the prized centre piece and others aren’t looking at their best.

Both of the above scenarios can easily be avoided.

That’s right - the use of a quarantine tank!

A quarantine tank is not expensive to set up, it does not take a lot of time to maintain and can be a lifesaver plus it can save you an awful lot of money and heartache.

A while ago we created an article which details how to setup a quarantine tank :

How To Setup A Quarantine Tank

This is only a short article which goes to show how easy it is to set one up and maintain. The thing I like about having a quarantine tank is that it can also be used as a hospital tank. If a fish is getting harassed in the display aquarium and can be caught then it can be transferred to the hospital tank and dosed, fattened up and basically given a rest. Once this is done then a decision can be made what to do. Either the fish can be returned to the display aquarium where it may become harassed again or it can be taken back to the fish shop.

It is important to note that both fish and corals should be quarantined. Personally I would recommend that fish should be quarantined for a minimum of two weeks after purchase however this can be longer in required.

Corals do not need to stay in as long - there are some people who dip their corals to remove any nasty inhabitants prior to it being introduced into the display aquarium and there are others who like to quarantine corals for the same period as fish where they can be treated and observed.

At the end of the day the risk of not using a quarantine tank is quite high. One sick fish can wipe out the entire aquarium, one infested coral can mean other corals being lost - not something any aquarist wants to see. I appreciate that there will be some aquarists who are lucky - they do not use a quarantine tank and have never had a problem and perhaps never will but are you prepared to take this risk? I for one am not.

So in answer to the question asked in the title of this post then the answer in my opinion is no, definitely not.

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Tags: Care, Equipment, fish-tank, marine-aquarium, marine-fish, reef-fish

Displacement - What Is It?

I think it was the Greek Archimedes who first discovered displacement. He was in the bath apparently and water flowed over the edges. After wondering for a while he called out “Eureka!” and leapt out of the bath. It might have been a bit of a surprise for anyone nearby.

To describe displacement - it is the quantity of a liquid that is displaced by a solid body when that solid body is placed in the liquid. The weight of the liquid displaced is equal to the reduction in weight of the solid body in the liquid.

So there we go, basically it is a very old world Greek who overflowed his bath and then ran around shouting about it.

Displacement is relevant to aquarists. When an aquarium is purchased it will be for a given gross volume but the aquarist cannot leave it at that. Whether the intention is to run a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium, the actual volume of seawater - the net amount - will be less. This is because when the rock formation is placed in the aquarium it will displace seawater. The fact that the immersed rock is lighter by the weight of the seawater it has displaced is perhaps interesting but not really useful in this context.

With a fish only system the amount of rockwork is likely to be less than a reef (though not necessarily so). This is fortunate as fish only aquariums are stocked more heavily than reef aquariums - the amount of seawater displaced will be less, meaning there are more gallons for the fish. The reef aquarium usually has a sizeable rock structure so that the aquarist can place a considerable number of corals on it. This means more seawater is displaced, which in turn means there is less gallonage for any fish. This doesn’t really matter as the reef aquarist needs to have a considerably lighter fish load to protect seawater quality. This seawater quality is particularly required by the corals.

Another point to bear in mind is that when constructing the new aquarium it is fine to fill with seawater in advance, but not fully so. If the rock structure is inert, that is, not live rock, then it can be constructed before any seawater goes in. Once construction is completed the aquarium can be fully filled. However, if the rockwork will be done with seawater in the aquarium the usual level that the seawater reaches initially is around 2/3rds. This of course is to allow for displacement, once the rocks are all in the level can be brought up fully.

A good thing to do when keeping a notebook with the aquarium (highly recommended) is to note the amount of seawater that goes in. Note the amount that goes in initially and when the rocks are in note the final amount also. Add the two amounts together and that is the net gallonage of the display aquarium. If there is a sump the same thing can be done, although in this case it could be displacement by a deep sand bed (DSB), heaters etc. Add this to the display aquarium net amount and that is the net volume of the whole system.

Knowing the net volume is useful if medications or supplements are to be added. These are normally administered at X amount for Y gallons. It is also useful when stocking with fish in both reef and fish only systems.

When a new coral that is attached to a rock is added, make sure the seawater is at the correct level before putting the coral and rock in. When it is in, remove the excess seawater and note the amount. Remove this amount from the noted net volume of the system.

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Tags: aquarium, Aquarium Water, fish-tank, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium

A Word

No, no, I don’t want to whisper any secrets or anything like that. What I’m on about is a word, such as the individual ones in this sentence.

We all use words whether we are plumbers, salesmen, astronauts, taxi drivers, clerks, sailors, toilet attendants, or anything at all. Aquarists can go on the list of course. Without all the words (I wonder how many there are in the dictionary) it would be a bit hard ordering that burger - maybe someone would invent a colour system or something similar. It would have to be complicated. Question -red black red black red. Reply - black black black. Translation: do you know where the toilet is? Answer: haven’t a clue, sorry.

We need words to express ourselves, all of us. Some are action words, some are descriptive. Aquarists have much use for descriptive words, immediately one comes to mind and that is ‘beautiful,’ used with reference to colourful fish and stunning captive reefs.

Another use of words came to mind the other day. At the moment I am engaged in a garden project, mixing concrete and the like. I needed to dig areas out where the concrete needed to go and, as luck will usually have it, right in the way there was some old buried concrete. No problem, thought Mr. Do It Yourself, I’ll simply get my steel chisel and lump hammer. All went well using these caveman weapons, bits of concrete breaking away just as they should. Then I missed with my aim - instead of there being the metallic clang as several pounds of hurtling steel hit the end of a steel chisel there was a dull thud. The dull thud was my finger. I hopped around like a demented kangaroo for a while, my wife looking a little alarmed but not overly so - more than once she’s observed peculiar antics.

It was a bit like that cartoon ‘Tom and Jerry.’ Jerry usually manages to wallop Tom, who often goes red in the face and exits skywards. I don’t have that amazing ability - I just went red in the face and held a throbbing finger under the cold tap.

Now that was a situation where a descriptive word would have been more than useful - I can think of some very appropriate ones starting with particular letters of the alphabet! Unfortunately, appropriate as they may be, they are not acceptable to the fairer sex generally speaking. Worse, they are most definitely not acceptable to the ears of children, who must continue to live in the land where blue birds sing and parents and grandparents never utter any inappropriate word that their inquisitive little minds could latch on to - “What does ……. mean?”

Aquarists have their moments. My aquarium is under open stairs and fairly regularly there is a dull thud as my head comes into contact with the hard edge of the stairs underside. This is very amusing to my wife; the usual suggestion is to wear a hard hat. Never mind that I might be in some pain or be in the process of developing a headache (which would be worse than anyone else’s of course).

What about carrying a bucket of seawater, only for the handle to slip and the pristine carpet becomes a habitat suitable for crabs, or coming down the stairs and attempting to create an indoor water feature? Then of course there’s when the aquarist’s hand is in the aquarium - a good bite from the egg guarding clownfish just to remind the aquarist who is in charge. Or a scrape on the sometimes decidedly sharp edge of a coral rock. Or stretching just a little more down into the seawater only for a soggy sensation to give a reminder to roll the sleeve up. There are lots of circumstances.

So back to words - I’ve got one that suits a timely situation well. It’s the B word. I’ve used it many times. It usually is preceded by ‘Oh!’ and is spoken at high volume. It works well, strange how a word can relieve a situation all on its own to an extent. It must be the instantaneous release of emotion, a cry that never fails to obtain attention when anything else usually gets a response of “In a minute, maybe.” Yes, it’s a clarion call to anyone within earshot to pay heed. They do too, and how satisfying it is.

So when I whack myself with gay abandon, or pour seawater where I shouldn’t have poured it, I have my acceptable release. My B word demanding attention. Not for over use or the impact will diminish.

The great emotional call “……Oh, buns!”

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Tags: aquarium, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, reef-aquarium, reef-tank, saltwater-aquarium

Have A Soft Flow For Better Polyp Extension

Seawater movement in the aquarium is a known requirement. This movement is needed by all marine aquarium creatures to a greater or lesser extent.

The aquarist who keeps a fish only system may believe that seawater movement is not so important and that belief is correct. However, fish need reasonable movement to prevent an area of ‘dead’ seawater developing around their body. It is also much more natural to have healthy movement as this is after all what occurs in their natural habitat, the wild reef. Fish also have a strong demand for oxygen and seawater movement maximizes good gas exchange.

Corals have a greater demand for seawater movement generally. This demand does vary between types, for example soft corals, again generally speaking, need less flow than hard corals, particularly the SPS (small polyp stony) types. As a general guideline to seawater movement, in the aquarium a soft coral display requires around 10 times the net gallonage to be moved per hour, and hard corals around 20 times or more. This movement is within the display aquarium, and does not apply to seawater moving through a sump.

The normal way of generating this movement is to employ power heads. More than one is usual, so that the outputs clash and chaotic and random movement is achieved. The output of the normal power head exits from a nozzle of, say, ½” (circa 12mm) in diameter. As this nozzle is narrow and the output is high, the seawater forms a powerful and narrow stream. This can be damaging to corals should it have a direct impact and care is needed in the coral’s placement. Even then corals in a good environment grow and may enter the high speed stream zone.

There is a relatively new type of power head now available which serves the same purpose as the type mentioned already. There is a very significant difference however, and this is that the nozzle is much wider, measuring around say 2½” to 3″ (circa 63mm to 75mm). Seawater leaving exits in a much gentler manner, which is not in a narrow stream but in a broader front. As the seawater stream is not so damaging the amount of seawater that is moved can be significantly increased over the older types of device, so the total amount of seawater that needs to be moved per hour is more easily achieved. The movement is more natural as well, as the stream forms, as said, a wider front. In the same way that the older power heads can be used in opposition, so can the wide output types. In fact, if two or more are used in opposition on timers then a wave system is not that difficult to generate.

The result of all this is generally happier corals. Provided the currents are not so strong that soft corals are being overcome by the surge and even hard corals are hard put to expand properly, the aquarist should see the corals are expanding and extending their polyps noticeably more.

The only time when the wide outlet power heads could need their output reducing is at feeding time to enable the fish to feed at leisure. Control units for the power heads, if used, normally have this ‘pause’ facility built in. Some aquarists also reduce the output of the power heads at night.

Anything that makes the aquarium environment a more natural one isn’t a bad thing, and the use of wide outlet power heads is a step in this direction.

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Tags: aquarium-pump, Corals, Equipment, power head, reef-aquarium, Water Movement

The Aquarium Sump Can Be Used For So Many Things

Marine systems of whatever type, reef aquarium or fish only aquarium, can function successfully on their own without a sump, provided they are properly supported by equipment, are not overstocked and ongoing routine maintenance is completed. There is a way to enhance the seawater quality in the aquarium even if all the necessary guidelines have been followed religiously and that is to have a sump.

An aquarium sump is to all intents and purposes another aquarium attached to the main display. Seawater is pumped up from the sump to the display aquarium and flows down again by gravity, usually by the use of an overflow pipe. This flow is easily achieved.

All that is needed is to measure the available space for the sump - it could be inside the cabinet cupboard if there is one, in a separate housing alongside but below the main aquarium, or even in an adjoining room. Generally the bigger it is the better. Once the available space has been measured the aquarist can purchase a suitable aquarium. There will need to be at least two dividers in the sump, the first one is to accept incoming seawater and the last one is to create an area for the return pump. Some aquarists have more dividers for their own reasons, but two serve the basic purpose. The glass for these dividers does not need to be thick as there is supporting seawater on both sides. There isn’t any chance of a leak once they are siliconed in place as all joints are inside an already watertight unit. The finished job does not need to be perfect as it is in the sump and not on display. Measuring and siliconing the glass is a simple job, there needs to be an overflow at the top of each divider which is created by making the top of the dividers around ½ inch lower than the seawater level. If the aquarist doesn’t fancy the job then a local marine pet store will often do the job for not much money, especially if the needed aquarium has been purchased from the same shop.

The question of drilling the display aquarium for an overflow to feed the sump is one that puts many DIYers off. Again, the local marine shop will often do the job, or if not a local plumber often will. Alternatively, an overflow device can be used. These fit on the edge of the aquarium and seawater overflows by siphon. These units are available commercially, but do project above the top of the main aquarium to an extent so space needs to be available.

The first advantage in having a sump is that the system seawater gallonage has been increased. This means that seawater quality will be enhanced as there are more gallons per fish. Note that the extra gallonage created is not a reason to increase fish stocks as this would negate the advantage and also possibly create space problems in the main aquarium. There will also be an increase in the amount of seawater used for the routine seawater change; this is not a problem as generally the sump isn’t that large.

So what else could the sump be useful for? Again with a view to high quality seawater a deep sand bed (DSB) could be placed between the two dividers. The depth of the DSB usually starts at 4″ and many aquarists have them deeper than this. Note that ordinary coarse coral sand is not used as it needs to be fine sand. There is an article on DSB construction on the Aquarists Online website. Another way to achieve the same thing would be to install a plenum, which is a raised DSB. I believe most aquarists use a standard DSB. The aquarist should see many tiny life forms inhabiting the DSB which generally widens interest in the aquarium system.

The macro algae Caulerpa could be used in the sump. Again this algae is used for filtration as it feeds on nitrate and phosphate. Once established it needs to be harvested from time to time. The aquarist will need to provide lighting. This is not expensive to purchase or run as fluorescent tubes (T5’s or T8’s) fitted with reflectors are sufficient, usually two are positioned along the length of the sump. An electric timer is also needed if the aquarist is to run the lighting on a cycle. If so, it is advantageous to have the sump lights on when the main aquarium lights are off. The reason for this is that it helps stabilize pH.

Additional live rock could be placed in the sump (but not on top of a DSB as it would cause compaction). This increases the bio-filtration should this be needed and at the same time creates a new mini-world for the aquarist.

If the aquarist has a problem with a fish then, if the fish is not too large, it could go into the sump. This is not for treatment (if treatment cannot be done in the display aquarium then it cannot be done in the sump as the two are connected), but to give the fish some respite if it is being harassed excessively. Likewise, there is a place for any unwelcome hitchhiker that has arrived with live rock - for example, a mantis shrimp is not welcome in the main display aquarium but it could be transferred to the sump and become a point of interest.

Another practical advantage to the sump is that it can be the home for technical equipment that would otherwise be in the display aquarium. Heaters and a protein skimmer for example - the equipment is out of the display aquarium which benefits by the removal of unnatural items.

If the aquarist has room for a sump then it is very worthwhile adding one.

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Tags: Aquarium Filtration, Aquarium Maintenance, aquarium sump, Care, Equipment, marine-aquarium

One Thing You Are Definitely Going To Need Is An Aquarium!

Perhaps the easiest decision to make, the one after actually deciding to keep marines, is the purchase of an aquarium. Well, it’s the very first need, the one to keep all the seawater together in one place!

So how to go about it - seems simple enough. Just go to the shop and get an aquarium that fits the space that has been designated for it.

Before the aquarist begins considering an aquarium purchase, it is necessary to have done some research into different marine systems (for example, fish only and reef tank) and come to a decision on which one is desired. Then a major consideration can take place, and that is running cost. It would be dreadful if the system had been set up over a period and the aquarist suddenly found him/herself faced with a frightening electricity bill.

When the system has been theoretically decided then the aquarist can list down some equipment requirements such as heaters and lighting. This is not wasting time as this knowledge will be required in due course anyway. There isn’t really a need to list all electrical equipment unless the aquarist wishes a near accurate calculation, just take into account the heating and lighting needs of the size of aquarium desired. Heating - and lighting on a reef aquarium if metal halide - are the big users of electricity. This is in a temperate area of course, in warmer areas a chiller could take the place of heaters and this is also quite hungry for electricity.

The calculation is simple - take the combined heater and lighting wattage (W) and divide it by 1000 (1000 is the normally used kilowatt which most electricity bills are based on). The result, probably a fraction, is the amount of electricity used in an hour. This is with the lights and heaters on all the time and of course they won’t be. So divide the answer by two. This will assume the heaters to be on half the time and also the lights. This again is not accurate, but for the purposes of this exercise is adequate as it is probably over estimated. However, remember there will be other equipment using electricity as well, though not as heavy in usage. For a day, multiply the answer by 24. For a week, multiply the last answer by 7 and so on. The cost is the number of kilowatts used including any fraction multiplied by the cost per kilowatt charged by the electricity supplier.

With this knowledge the aquarist will be either satisfied that the size of aquarium is economically acceptable or realize that it is too expensive. If the first, that’s great. If the second, all is not lost.

Downsize the aquarium is the obvious move, and this will reduce the heating and lighting requirements. If metal halides are to be used, then reducing the depth of the aquarium will mean that less powerful bulbs should be adequate, or that fluorescents could be used.

If metal halide lighting is a must because of what is to be kept (for example SPS corals) then running cost can be reduced by using a modern LED lighting system. These are now available as full arrays or as LED strip lights which look similar to fluorescents in physical size. These LED’s use much less electricity and the bulbs last far longer than fluorescents or metal halides. There are other advantages. Unfortunately, they are more expensive to purchase so though the ongoing running cost is considerably reduced the initial set-up cost is increased. Another lighting option is to use fluorescent T5 tubes and these are far less expensive than LED’s to purchase and cost less to run than metal halide bulbs. Again care must be taken as the depth of the aquarium matters, light will not penetrate as far as with metal halides.

It is really worth while checking the general running cost of a marine system before anything else, particularly in these days of increasing energy costs. Quite a few newcomers and more experienced aquarists have been unpleasantly surprised when the first electricity bill for the new or upgraded system arrives. Checking first avoids any nasty surprise.

Once the general running cost is checked and found to be acceptable then the aquarium size is known. Now an aquarium can be chosen.

Will it be acrylic or glass? I prefer glass as it doesn’t scratch so easily. Will it have a sump? Will it be in a cabinet? There is another question as well and that is what shape will it be?

Nowadays aquariums can be obtained in all sorts of sizes and shapes. There are the standard rectangular ones, square and round ones and those that fit into a corner as they are triangular. So if the space for the aquarium is ‘different’ there will be something suitable. Some aquarists even have ‘L’ shaped units to go around a corner though these are usually custom built on site. When choosing a shape, remember to consider the lights that are required - will they fit? Also will the intended lights have enough penetrating power for the depth of the aquarium, unless the livestock don’t require it?

Starting out with the design of a new system is exciting. Obtaining the aquarium is a first step and an easy one. Checking the guideline running cost is well worth while to avoid later unwelcome surprises or even shock. Cutting back on a newly set-up system is not going to enhance the aquarist’s enjoyment one bit.

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Tags: aquarium, Equipment, fish-tank, marine-aquarium, reef-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium

Mixing Saltwater

Saltwater is going to be mixed many times from the very creation of the aquarium way into the future. It is my opinion that a lot of people make this into something which takes more time than it actually needs to be.

All you need to do is spend a bit more time when performing the first water change to make it a lot easier in the future.

Both John and myself recommend the use of reverse osmosis water be this purchased from the local fish shop or created in the aquarists own home therefore when purchasing the salt mix it is imperative that one be purchased which has been specifically manufactured to be used with reverse osmosis water.

The net gallonage of the aquarium should be known from when the aquarium was initially filled with water therefore it is relatively simple to work out how much water will need to be removed from the aquarium for a 10% water change to be performed. In this example we will pretend that the net gallonage of the aquarium is 100 gallons therefore a 10% water change would be 10 gallons. This figure should be noted down for future use.

It should be remembered that fresh newly created reverse osmosis water should be used and it should be heated up to the same temperature of the display aquarium prior to adding any salt.

Having purchased the sea salt it is fairly straight forward to ‘guess’ the amount required to meet the intended specific gravity of the aquarium by looking at the suggestions/recommendations of the manufacturer.

When measuring it is recommended that you actually measure slightly less than you believe you require. Once you have measured the salt do not add it to the water weigh it first and make a note of the reading.

Add the salt to the water and give it a really good stir using a device such as a clean wooden spoon to initially mix it in. Add either an air pump or a small powerhead and leave it alone for 8-12 hours. This will allow the salt to fully mix into the water.

After this time measure the specific gravity with a hydrometer or other measuring device such as a refractometer.

At this point you will have one of three scenarios:

1. The specific gravity reading is to low. Measure out a little more salt and make a note of the weight. Add this salt to the mixing device and allow more time for the salt to mix and then test the specific gravity again. If more salt is needed then proceed as before ensuring that any new salt measured it weighed and recorded. Once the specific gravity reading is correct then simply add all the salt weights together for future use and record this information.
2. The spcific gravity reading is to high. Add some more reverse osmosis water to the mix noting the amount added for future use. Give the water time to warm up and then test again. If the reading is still to high then add some more water and record how much was added. Once the reading is correct then add the amount of water together and record this information.
3. The specific gravity reading is correct.

Taking your time on your first water change will allow you to identify how much salt you need to add to the required amount of water. When new water changes are to be performed you can create the correct amount of reverse osmosis water and weigh out exactly the correct amount of salt required.

It needs to be noted that using this method although does save you considerable time when mixing saltwater does not mean that you should not test the specific gravity each time. It is recommended that you continue to test each and every time you create new salt water and always ensure that you keep your measuring device clean.

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, aquarium salt, Aquarium Water, Care, Water Quality, water-change

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