Maintain That Skimmer

The protein skimmer is a device that is essential to the maintenance of high quality seawater in nearly all systems. There is a system that claims to not need a skimmer, but aquarists often run one anyway. Using a protein skimmer is particularly useful to experienced aquarists and beginners alike.

The skimmer when purchased, whether a hang-on or stand alone model, should be sized at around twice the net gallonage of the system. This is because manufacturers can be a little enthusiastic about skimmer capabilities, and it also takes into account, up to a point, the less efficient skimmers on the market.

Any device is only as good as the necessary maintenance it receives. The skimmer is no exception.

There are (I assume) not that many air driven skimmers left in use. If the skimmer is air driven, then it is important to ensure that maximum air is being delivered properly. This is done by ensuring that the air pump is operating at full efficiency, without clogged air filters or damaged diaphragms. The bubbles coming from the air ’stone’ should be very large in number and very small in size. If they are not, change the ‘stone’ for a new one. If this doesn’t make any difference check the pump for problems as above.

The skimmer is more than likely to be a [tag-tec]venturi[/tag-tec] model nowadays. These come in different guises that are essentially the same – flowing water from a pump passes an intake where air is taken in. The air is pounded into small bubbles by the pump impellor or a variation of this. Again, the bubbles should be very numerous and very small, If they are not, check the air intake (venturi) as these have a tendency to block. Switching the unit off can often clear them by allowing the blockage to dissolve. If this doesn’t work, check the air line to the venturi is clear. Always adhere to the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions.

There are other skimmers which are less common.

All skimmers should have the bubble chamber packed with bubbles. This is often evident by the colour – the chamber appears close to white.

A very important maintenance task with a skimmer is cleaning. Over time, the period depending on the level of [tag-ice]dissolved organics[/tag-ice] in the seawater, the cup will fill. This should be emptied and cleaned. Whether the cup is full or not, the aquarist should check the condition of the effluent throat (the part where the bubbles rise up towards the cup). This is because a layer of scum builds up here, and the efficiency of the skimmer is directly affected by it. Clean it off and maintain efficiency.

A skimmer does not always perform at full efficiency when new. This is because of the manufacturing process and the plastic. It will soon settle down, however. The same thing could happen for a shorter period when the skimmer has been cleaned.

The great majority of aquarists should have a skimmer and run it continuously. It is a direct contribution to the health of the aquarium.

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Live Rock – How Much Do I Need?

Live rock is so called because it bears some of the tougher life forms that have survived the processes between the wild and the dealer’s sale tanks. In addition it harbours beneficial bacteria that are able to deal with ammonia, nitrite and [tag-self]nitrate[/tag-self].

All marine aquarists can use [tag-self]live rock[/tag-self]. It doesn’t matter if it is a seahorse, fish only or reef aquarium. Live rock of good quality will be beneficial and decorative.

Live rock is expensive, which is understandable, as it is transported by air. Therefore aquarists should consider buying different grades: base rock, which doesn’t show much on its surface and is suitable for the reef base, and premium rock which can be used to cover the surface of the construction. This reduces the cost up to a point.

Once the aquarist has reached the live rock purchase stage, how much should be bought? In a [tag-tec]reef tank[/tag-tec] there is obviously going to be a lot, and the aquarist knows the extent of the reef that is to be constructed. What of a fish only or seahorse tank?

The usual guideline is to use 1½ lbs for each gallon of seawater in the whole system. This is fine – but there are different types of live rock, some quite heavy and some quite light. So what to do?

In the reef system, as already said, the aquarist knows the extent of the intended captive reef. Therefore it is simple, as enough rock will be needed for that construction. Captive reefs are usually 1/2 to 2/3 of the display tank volume. As the reef system holds a smaller fish load to protect water quality, this amount of live rock should be enough. Corals present a very small bio load. Many if not most reef systems employ a sump and deep sand bed so the filtration is more than likely to be adequate. A decent protein skimmer is necessary.

The seahorse tank is similar. Though a reef is not to be constructed, enough live rock to construct a decent decorative pile or two should be purchased. The bio load on these tanks is usually low, as seahorses are not compatible with fish (except pipefish), and, provided routine water changes are done, very often a protein skimmer is not used, though a protein skimmer can be fitted. Seahorse tanks are usually quite small and water changes are not a problem. In addition, Caulerpa macro algae is often grown in the display tank, and this will assist with water quality and make the seahorses feel more at home.

The fish only tank needs caution. This is because these systems are likely to carry a higher bio load, in other words more fish can be kept than in a reef system. The aquarist is not going to keep a reef tank, and may decide to only purchase a little live rock. If this is the case, then additional bio-filtration must be employed, even if this is a canister filter filled with appropriate media. With live rock as the main filtration, the aquarist will need to use a substantial amount, approaching a reef system. In addition, a sump with a DSB would be a great help. An efficient protein skimmer is a must.

Once any of these types of system are set up with live rock, the aquarist must monitor the water parameters for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, particularly in the early months (this is in addition to the other parameters that are monitored with a reef system). Bio-filtration needs to settle and adapt to the load it has to deal with, so stocking needs to be done gradually with patience.

Setting up a marine aquarium is not the cheapest of activities, and in the future the system is going to hold life. It makes sense therefore not to cut corners with an absolutely necessary part of the system, the life support filtration.

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The Best Of Both Worlds

Marine aquarists have to make a decision before the planning of an aquarium system even begins – is it to be a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium. For the most part the desire is for a captive reef.

Choosing a captive reef system is entirely understandable. What could be more challenging and exciting than with both the construction and ongoing life of a captive reef? Just viewing some of the reef photographs on the internet is enough to sway the choice. There is a cost, however.

The fish only system may be chosen because it costs less to set up (there is actually not a great deal in it, it is the reef lighting and live rock that increases the cost. If a fish only with live rock – FOWLR – is chosen the cost difference shrinks). The great advantage is that, provided the fish stocked are compatible and sized to the aquarium dimensions, there is a great variety of fish available.

That is the cost of choosing a reef system, the fish. For a start, a reef system cannot hold as many fish as a fish only, because of concerns for water quality. In addition, many of the fish that would be suitable for a fish only system are not suited to the captive reef, simply because they are not reef compatible. Fancy seeing a prized coral being munched by a butterfly fish!

Most aquarists have one or the other of the two systems. There are some lucky ones who have both. What a wonderful display, a reef system alongside a fish only one. All the interest of the reef and fish types that really attract the eye – larger angels and butterflies for example.

The next thought is, let’s combine the systems and run them in a loop. What an idea! Hang on, no it isn’t. The water quality must be high in the reef aquarium, the fish only water may put downward pressure on it. Nevertheless, if there is the space it can be done, without interconnection, with two individual (matching?) aquariums. If there is the space for a sump it can be attached to the reef system. If plenty of space the fish only can also have a sump. Wow! What a thought.

Of course, cost becomes a definite major consideration if there is the space in the first place. With two systems, the aquarist has increased routine maintenance including water changes. This would have to be acceptable.

I can see it though. Marvellous – everything an aquarist could wish for. Ah well, most of us just have the one system. Complaining? Me? No, I look at my reef and I’m satisfied.

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An Aquaristic Nightmare

I intend looking at two fish problems. These two problems are probably the most feared by marine aquarists. Those who keep a [tag-self]fish only aquarium[/tag-self] could sweat a little less, but the owner of a [tag-self]reef aquarium[/tag-self] can have real trouble.

The first is the so-called marine [tag-self]white spot[/tag-self], or ‘[tag-self]ich[/tag-self]‘. The cause of this problem is Cyptocaryon irritans, which is a parasite. The second is [tag-self]marine velvet[/tag-self], caused by the parasite Oodinium ocellatum. On the wild reef it is possible that a fish may run into one or other of these parasites once or twice, or perhaps never. The parasitic attack will not amount to much on the wild reef because of the enormous amount of gallonage and the very large numbers of fish present. In the confines of an aquarium it is a different story – this is why.

Though there are comparatively few fish in the aquarium, per gallon there are usually a lot, particularly in a fish only system. Also the parasites are restricted to the gallons and fish available, which is obvious, but it is that which causes the major problem.

The major problem is caused by the reproductive cycle of the parasites. If a fish is introduced to the aquarium with just one parasite attached to the outer body, this is enough. The parasite usually stays on the body of the fish for one or two days with white spot, three or four days with velvet, then it encysts and falls off. It drops to the bottom or on to rocks and begins to divide into many more parasites, and this process can last for up to two weeks. The parasites then reach the free swimming stage, when they search for a new host fish. A new host must be found within about 48 hours or the parasite will die. In the confines of the aquarium a fish or more will be found. The process then begins all over again. In due course, fish can become covered in parasites which continue their reproductive cycle. Eventually, the fish are so infested they die. Then the parasites will die too, but it is too late.

How are the problems recognised? First, fortunately white spot is fairly easy to see. The fish may ’scratch’ against rocks and may have one or two or more little white pimples anywhere on the body or fins. The spots are somewhere near the size of a pinhead.

If a pimple is seen then do not immediately assume that it is white spot. Observe if it goes away as sometimes a ’pimple’ is seen that is not white spot. However, watch very carefully for any development.

Velvet is more difficult to see. Again, the fish may ‘scratch’ against rocks. It is more likely that its gill beat (respiration) will be faster. It may hold its fins closed against the body. Note that the above symptoms may or may not be present. What are looked for on the body or fins of the fish are yellowish or white/grey spots. Unfortunately, these spots are very small and can hardly be seen. Try looking at the darker coloured areas of the fish. If a fish gives the chance, use a magnifying glass. Also, the aquarist can attempt to view the fish looking directly at the head when the fish’s body is behind the head (ie. head-on) – looking down the length of the fish the tiny spots might more easily be seen – the fish could appear to have a ‘dusting’. Velvet is the more deadly of the two problems, to a large extent because of the difficulty in identifying it.

With both problems, careful observation, consideration, and action are imperative. Failure to diagnose the presence of the parasites can lead to severe problems, at the worst all fish being badly infected and many or all facing death.

If the spots are parasites, then proper treatment must be given promptly. The headline rule is: “Don‘t Panic” When the spots are diagnosed, they do not develop so quickly that care cannot be taken.

If the aquarist has a fish only aquarium, then the best thing is to deal with all the fish as a safety measure. Dealing with just the fish showing a problem using a quarantine tank will not deal with any parasites that are in the aquarium, either in the division stage or unnoticed on another fish. All the fish can be moved to a quarantine tank if desired. They will have to stay in quarantine for at least two weeks, to try to ensure that any parasites in the display aquarium that are coming out of the divisional stage or swimming are dead as they couldn’t find a host. Whatever aquarium is used, the first action is to consider UV treatment of the display aquarium. If UV equipment is not held, then it is not absolutely necessary to buy a unit. UV will help destroy the parasites in their free swimming stage, but removal of all parasites is not guaranteed, and UV does nothing to parasites that are on a fish or encysted.

The use of a copper treatment will destroy the parasites. Warning: copper is deadly to

invertebrates. Do not use copper if invertebrates are present or it is intended to introduce any in the future. Stick strictly to the manufacturer’s recommendations about copper dosage and exposure time, and ensure there is a good copper concentration test kit available.

If invertebrates are a problem then see the reef system comments below. Invertebrates will be fine, of course, if they remain in the display aquarium when treatment is done in a quarantine tank. Obviously, ensure water is not transferred from the quarantine to the display aquarium.

When treatment is over and hopefully successful, and when the treatment was in the display aquarium, use a power filter and put activated carbon in. This will take out remaining copper. Throw away the water in a quarantine aquarium – do a larger (say 25%) water change in the display aquarium.

Keep a close eye on the fish to make sure all is well.

If the aquarist has a reef aquarium, then it is clear there will be livestock present that prohibits the use of copper. As above, if a UV unit is available, activate it immediately. Consider treating the fish in a quarantine aquarium also as above. It will be more difficult catching the fish as they are going to hide in the rockwork, and the aquarist will not be keen to dismantle the reef. If it is clear the fish cannot be successfully caught, then the option is to use a reef safe treatment.

Reef safe treatments have not been shown (to my knowledge) to be as effective as copper. Even though they are termed ‘reef safe’, the manufacturer’s instructions must be strictly adhered to. It is possible that in the treatment process some corals close up because of contact with the substance, or certain types of livestock must not be present.

Once treatment has ceased activated carbon should be introduced to clean up any treatment residue, subject to the instructions that came with the treatment. A larger than normal water change is also beneficial.

There are other treatments that can be used on infected fish other than described, but these require capture of the fish and removal from the display area, so the reef aquarist faces the same problem.

The best way to avoid problems such as described above is to purchase fish with great care, and introduce them with the same care. Stress is a large factor that can cause problems because of impaired immunity. The use of a quarantine aquarium is very sensible.

To end on a positive note, and assuming that fish are carefully introduced, the chance of problems as described are reduced nowadays. The greater knowledge and practice of wild capture techniques, better transportation of fish, and more knowledgeable retail shops means purchasing a healthy fish is more likely. The aquarist is the final guard however, and must never lower the defences: careful selection, careful introduction, careful ongoing observation, stress avoidance at all times, proper nutrition, and overall high class husbandry which includes high quality seawater.

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New Look, New Design

As you can see we have had a bit of a face lift here at Aquarists Online.

We have been thinking about changing the theme for a while now and eventually found one which we thought suited what we write about quite well.

Quite a while was spent ironing out the bugs and we believe that we have found the majority of them. There are a few small things left to do but we are very happy with the result.

We have also given the forum a makeover as well and changed the theme so that it matches the main site as well as adding a brand new logo.

So what do you think – we are both really pleased with it. We believe that it is easier to navigate, easier to find the information, looks more professional and is more pleasing to the eye.

Be good to hear what you think.

Guard Those Intakes!

Be it a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium, there are going to be intakes to canister filters, protein skimmers, sumps, power heads and the like. The equipment fitted is important to the quality of the seawater and its movement.

This water quality is to enhance the life of the inmates. There is a danger that the intakes to devices such as the examples given could in fact be a threat to mobile livestock such as fish and shrimps. There is also the danger that other livestock such as corals could be damaged if they grow or are placed too close.

Taking corals first, and really considering the soft variety, many are able to grow to quite a size. If this growth brings the coral anywhere near an intake then the coral tip could be sucked in and damaged.

Fish and shrimps like to find hide holes that are secure. It has been known for them to enter an intake with a view to a secure home, only to become stuck because of the water flow and subsequently die. It has also been known for a small fish to end up in the sump, having journeyed down the feed pipe. Lucky in that case and usually no harm done. Established fish could be searching for a better home, perhaps because another fish has taken over their previous residence. Newly introduced fish have a priority to find a home and safety, searching carefully and investigating anything that looks hopeful to check if it is occupied.

Quite apart from the potential danger to the trapped fish or shrimp, there is the question of the interruption to the water flow. This could be serious in certain cases if not noticed by the aquarist for a while.

The potential problem is easily avoided by always using the intake guards that are provided with powerheads, canister filters, protein skimmers and the like. If there is any other intake, perhaps one incorporated by the aquarist in the design, it is simplicity itself to put a mesh guard over it.

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What Is The Best Salinity To Keep A Saltwater Aquarium At?

The salinity of the marine aquarium is one of the major parameters that must be routinely checked. Salinity can change because of evaporation, and it is important to keep it stable. Daily top-ups of the water to a pre-determined level is an easy way, or using an auto top-up device.

Aquarists normally deal with [tag-tec]specific gravity[/tag-tec] (SG) which is a straightforward measurement to obtain. The instrument used is a [tag-self]hydrometer[/tag-self], normally of the swing needle or floating needle type. They are both accurate enough for hobby purposes, and any small inaccuracy can usually be disregarded as long as the measurement is stable.

On the wild reef the [tag-self]salinity[/tag-self] measures an average 35 parts per thousand (ppt) *. 35 ppt is the equivalent of close to SG 1.026. It would seem therefore that an SG of 1.026 should be maintained. There are many aquarists who consider this to be correct, stating that mother nature knows best. These aquarists include several well known names, and they are concerned with captive reef systems.

The fish only aquarium can be kept at a lower SG. In the many years that aquarists have kept fish only systems, and remember these existed well before captive reefs, it was found that there were advantages in maintaining a lower SG. First of all, there was evidence that certain fish parasites do not do well at a lower SG. This is supported to an extent by one method of dealing with parasite infected fish – lowering the SG to destroy them. However, the SG being considered here is not as low as that. The level is 1.022. This will mean that the fish hopefully will not fall foul of parasites so easily, and the cost of salt to the aquarist will be lower (though the cost is not the most important consideration). It has also been stated that the marine fish natural bodily function of water transference is less strenuous. There is no evidence that maintaining fish at a lower SG is detrimental to them.

SG in a captive reef system is not so straightforward. A higher SG should be maintained as there is evidence that some corals may not open polyps in a lower one. Corals are also stressed over the long term by a too high or worse too low SG and could even die if the situation was allowed to continue. As said this is long term – changes in SG of a short duration, though very undesirable, will not have the same result. It is reported that soft corals are more influenced by incorrect SG *.

I have a soft coral reef that I do not maintain at 1.026. It is maintained at 1.024. This level does not fluctuate by any amount to speak of. The corals are healthy and growing and there are, and have never been, any signs of stress.

So, an aquarist keeping a fish only aquarium can safely reduce the SG to 1.022. There is no reason it could not be higher, after all the fish live in the wild at a higher level, but it is well known that a lower SG will do no harm.

Where there are corals involved, it will be best to maintain a higher level of 1.026. The aquarist with the confidence of experience can lower this SG very carefully over a lengthy period, and note if there are any bad reactions by the corals. If there are, the SG must be raised, again over a period. Sudden changes are not wanted. If there are no bad reactions, then SG 1.024 is probably the lowest that should be maintained.

If aquarists are able to take their swing needle or float needle hydrometers to somewhere that can test the accuracy against a known correct measure, all the better. The aquarist can then add to or take from the required measurement on their hydrometer to obtain more accuracy.

( * Reference: Eric Borneman. Aquarium Corals)

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