Maintain That Skimmer
February 29, 2008
The protein skimmer is a device that is essential to the maintenance of high quality seawater in nearly all systems. There is a system that claims to not need a skimmer, but aquarists often run one anyway. Using a protein skimmer is particularly useful to experienced aquarists and beginners alike.
The skimmer when purchased, whether a hang-on or stand alone model, should be sized at around twice the net gallonage of the system. This is because manufacturers can be a little enthusiastic about skimmer capabilities, and it also takes into account, up to a point, the less efficient skimmers on the market.
Any device is only as good as the necessary maintenance it receives. The skimmer is no exception.
There are (I assume) not that many air driven skimmers left in use. If the skimmer is air driven, then it is important to ensure that maximum air is being delivered properly. This is done by ensuring that the air pump is operating at full efficiency, without clogged air filters or damaged diaphragms. The bubbles coming from the air ’stone’ should be very large in number and very small in size. If they are not, change the ‘stone’ for a new one. If this doesn’t make any difference check the pump for problems as above.
The skimmer is more than likely to be a [tag-tec]venturi[/tag-tec] model nowadays. These come in different guises that are essentially the same – flowing water from a pump passes an intake where air is taken in. The air is pounded into small bubbles by the pump impellor or a variation of this. Again, the bubbles should be very numerous and very small, If they are not, check the air intake (venturi) as these have a tendency to block. Switching the unit off can often clear them by allowing the blockage to dissolve. If this doesn’t work, check the air line to the venturi is clear. Always adhere to the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions.
There are other skimmers which are less common.
All skimmers should have the bubble chamber packed with bubbles. This is often evident by the colour – the chamber appears close to white.
A very important maintenance task with a skimmer is cleaning. Over time, the period depending on the level of [tag-ice]dissolved organics[/tag-ice] in the seawater, the cup will fill. This should be emptied and cleaned. Whether the cup is full or not, the aquarist should check the condition of the effluent throat (the part where the bubbles rise up towards the cup). This is because a layer of scum builds up here, and the efficiency of the skimmer is directly affected by it. Clean it off and maintain efficiency.
A skimmer does not always perform at full efficiency when new. This is because of the manufacturing process and the plastic. It will soon settle down, however. The same thing could happen for a shorter period when the skimmer has been cleaned.
The great majority of aquarists should have a skimmer and run it continuously. It is a direct contribution to the health of the aquarium.
Related Posts - The Canister Filter - A Thing Of The Past Or Still Useful? Technology marches on and there are quite a few devices that are available for use with a marine system. The canister filter is not new...
- Is An Aquarium Air Pump A Good Way To Add Oxygen? Though there are other needs, seawater quality is the number one requirement for the success of a marine aquarium. Attention to seawater quality will pay...
- When To Replace Your Aquarium Lights There is only one thing that is a little more important than lighting with a marine aquarium and that is water quality. Lighting is only...
- Closed Loop Water Circulation As with many things in this hobby closed loop circulation is a subject matter which can be quite confusing. This topic has been briefly covered...
- The Basic Kit For A Marine Aquarium Part One - Fish Only Despite the number of modern books available and information on the internet confusion continues to arise with a newcomer. This confusion is sometimes caused by...
Related Websites - The Air Powered Car - Better than Batteries Finally it's starting to dawn on a few people that battery powered cars are not the way out of our low-carbon energy conundrum. Bolivia holds...
- Top 7 Energy Saving Tips for this Summer [This post is written and copyrighted by FIRE Finance (http://firefinance.blogspot.com).]Apr 20, 2010: Every summer as the heat steps up so does our utility bill. This...
- DIY: brake fluid bleed / change Brake fluid is caustic and generally hazardous to your health. Wear rubber/vinyl/synthetic gloves that are chemical resistant while working with brake fluid. See MSDS here...
- Salt-water Swimming Pool Maintenance Guide Salt-water swimming pools are fast becoming a rage all over the world. Personal as well as public pools are being turned into salt-water pools. But...
- Top 10 Ways To Save Money Maintaining And Cleaning Your House. Since I am in charge of maintaining and keeping the house clean, I thought I would share a few pointers on how we save money...
Live Rock – How Much Do I Need?
February 28, 2008
Live rock is so called because it bears some of the tougher life forms that have survived the processes between the wild and the dealer’s sale tanks. In addition it harbours beneficial bacteria that are able to deal with ammonia, nitrite and [tag-self]nitrate[/tag-self].
All marine aquarists can use [tag-self]live rock[/tag-self]. It doesn’t matter if it is a seahorse, fish only or reef aquarium. Live rock of good quality will be beneficial and decorative.
Live rock is expensive, which is understandable, as it is transported by air. Therefore aquarists should consider buying different grades: base rock, which doesn’t show much on its surface and is suitable for the reef base, and premium rock which can be used to cover the surface of the construction. This reduces the cost up to a point.
Once the aquarist has reached the live rock purchase stage, how much should be bought? In a [tag-tec]reef tank[/tag-tec] there is obviously going to be a lot, and the aquarist knows the extent of the reef that is to be constructed. What of a fish only or seahorse tank?
The usual guideline is to use 1½ lbs for each gallon of seawater in the whole system. This is fine – but there are different types of live rock, some quite heavy and some quite light. So what to do?
In the reef system, as already said, the aquarist knows the extent of the intended captive reef. Therefore it is simple, as enough rock will be needed for that construction. Captive reefs are usually 1/2 to 2/3 of the display tank volume. As the reef system holds a smaller fish load to protect water quality, this amount of live rock should be enough. Corals present a very small bio load. Many if not most reef systems employ a sump and deep sand bed so the filtration is more than likely to be adequate. A decent protein skimmer is necessary.
The seahorse tank is similar. Though a reef is not to be constructed, enough live rock to construct a decent decorative pile or two should be purchased. The bio load on these tanks is usually low, as seahorses are not compatible with fish (except pipefish), and, provided routine water changes are done, very often a protein skimmer is not used, though a protein skimmer can be fitted. Seahorse tanks are usually quite small and water changes are not a problem. In addition, Caulerpa macro algae is often grown in the display tank, and this will assist with water quality and make the seahorses feel more at home.
The fish only tank needs caution. This is because these systems are likely to carry a higher bio load, in other words more fish can be kept than in a reef system. The aquarist is not going to keep a reef tank, and may decide to only purchase a little live rock. If this is the case, then additional bio-filtration must be employed, even if this is a canister filter filled with appropriate media. With live rock as the main filtration, the aquarist will need to use a substantial amount, approaching a reef system. In addition, a sump with a DSB would be a great help. An efficient protein skimmer is a must.
Once any of these types of system are set up with live rock, the aquarist must monitor the water parameters for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, particularly in the early months (this is in addition to the other parameters that are monitored with a reef system). Bio-filtration needs to settle and adapt to the load it has to deal with, so stocking needs to be done gradually with patience.
Setting up a marine aquarium is not the cheapest of activities, and in the future the system is going to hold life. It makes sense therefore not to cut corners with an absolutely necessary part of the system, the life support filtration.
Related Posts - What Else Can You Use Instead Of Live Rock In The Home Aquarium Live rock is very effective and efficient when it comes to saltwater aquarium filtration however dependant upon the size of the aquarium can be quite...
- The Essential Bacterial Service There is one area in the aquarium no matter if it is fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium that the aquarist must have. If...
- Two Small Spectacular Fishes The words ‘marine’ and ‘spectacular’ seem to go hand in hand. Consider corals in all their diversity and splendour. The corals don’t have it all...
- How To Tell When Your Aquarium Has Cycled A great deal of fun and excitement is caused by the planning and building of a new marine aquarium. All the equipment to consider and...
- It Takes Time Any experienced aquarist can understand why a newcomer to the hobby really wants to see some livestock in their aquarium, because those aquarists have been...
Related Websites - San Justo Reservoir San Justo Reservoir San Justo Reservoir is located in: Hollister, CA Phone: 831-638-3300 About the Lake: San Justo Reservoir is a very scenic body...
- Duxbury Salmon 8/14/2010 I went salmon fishing off the Duxbury reef with Captain Perry Kerson and deckhand Mikey of Sea Turtle Sport Fishing. Had an awesome time. You...
- Fishing Report for June 13th, 2009 The fishing was so insane this past week that it is hard to know exactly where to begin. The mid bay, for example, went fairly...
- Top 50 Frugality Blogs that Will Help You Save Money Miranda writes for Bankling, a new portal for personal finance information, which publishes a weblog, and a resources section that contains tools like the highest...
- A whopping $1.02 for my daughter's two aquarium souvenirs As I mentioned in the roundup, we all were at my wife's oceanside quilting retreat. I came down to watch my daughter for the weekend,...
The Best Of Both Worlds
February 27, 2008
Marine aquarists have to make a decision before the planning of an aquarium system even begins – is it to be a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium. For the most part the desire is for a captive reef.
Choosing a captive reef system is entirely understandable. What could be more challenging and exciting than with both the construction and ongoing life of a captive reef? Just viewing some of the reef photographs on the internet is enough to sway the choice. There is a cost, however.
The fish only system may be chosen because it costs less to set up (there is actually not a great deal in it, it is the reef lighting and live rock that increases the cost. If a fish only with live rock – FOWLR – is chosen the cost difference shrinks). The great advantage is that, provided the fish stocked are compatible and sized to the aquarium dimensions, there is a great variety of fish available.
That is the cost of choosing a reef system, the fish. For a start, a reef system cannot hold as many fish as a fish only, because of concerns for water quality. In addition, many of the fish that would be suitable for a fish only system are not suited to the captive reef, simply because they are not reef compatible. Fancy seeing a prized coral being munched by a butterfly fish!
Most aquarists have one or the other of the two systems. There are some lucky ones who have both. What a wonderful display, a reef system alongside a fish only one. All the interest of the reef and fish types that really attract the eye – larger angels and butterflies for example.
The next thought is, let’s combine the systems and run them in a loop. What an idea! Hang on, no it isn’t. The water quality must be high in the reef aquarium, the fish only water may put downward pressure on it. Nevertheless, if there is the space it can be done, without interconnection, with two individual (matching?) aquariums. If there is the space for a sump it can be attached to the reef system. If plenty of space the fish only can also have a sump. Wow! What a thought.
Of course, cost becomes a definite major consideration if there is the space in the first place. With two systems, the aquarist has increased routine maintenance including water changes. This would have to be acceptable.
I can see it though. Marvellous – everything an aquarist could wish for. Ah well, most of us just have the one system. Complaining? Me? No, I look at my reef and I’m satisfied.
Related Posts - Understand The Nitrogen Cycle - Your Livestock Depend On It Modern reef aquariums try to be as natural as possible. The modern day captive reef would make yesterdays marine aquarists eyes water - they are...
- Stocking The Saltwater Aquarium - Part 1 In Part 1 a fish only aquarium will be covered. In Part 2 the reef aquarium will be looked at. It is assumed that the...
- Is It Confusion That Prevents People From Starting Or Something Else? There are many people who have hoped to start a marine aquarium - some of whom have had some type of aquarium previously and some...
- Aquarium LED Lighting - A Major Advance Or Is Metal Halide Still The Light Of Choice? I've already written about LED's (Light Emitting Diodes) of low output (see 'LED Lighting On The Marine Reef Aquarium'. Those low output LED's create excellent...
- Is There A 'Best Size' Aquarium To Start With This is probably something which most beginners to this hobby ask themselves and it is a very valid question. A lot of people recommend that...
Related Websites - California Fishing Report: May 29, 2009 The Feather River, which runs into the Sacramento Bay, is experiencing a number of schools milling around the confluence, and more just up from there...
- Save Time, Money and Space in Over 80 Ways If you're looking for handy gadgets, tools and various items that can save you time, money or space (or all three!) this list of more...
- Fishing Report: June 19, 2009 Ocean Beach has been virtually swimming in tiny shrimp, which is perhaps the cause for the striped bass finding their way into the surf. The...
- CAMCO D-I-Y BOAT WINTERIZER ENGINE FLUSHING SYSTEM Product DescriptionQuickly and efficiently service inboard/outboard marine engines. The patented Do-It-Yourself Winterizer allows flushing and preparation of boat engine for winter storage with just five...
- Types of Garden Landscapes pt 1 There are a wide variety of different types and styles of gardens. There are so many, in fact, that it may seem overwhelming and daunting...
An Aquaristic Nightmare
February 26, 2008
I intend looking at two fish problems. These two problems are probably the most feared by marine aquarists. Those who keep a [tag-self]fish only aquarium[/tag-self] could sweat a little less, but the owner of a [tag-self]reef aquarium[/tag-self] can have real trouble.
The first is the so-called marine [tag-self]white spot[/tag-self], or ‘[tag-self]ich[/tag-self]‘. The cause of this problem is Cyptocaryon irritans, which is a parasite. The second is [tag-self]marine velvet[/tag-self], caused by the parasite Oodinium ocellatum. On the wild reef it is possible that a fish may run into one or other of these parasites once or twice, or perhaps never. The parasitic attack will not amount to much on the wild reef because of the enormous amount of gallonage and the very large numbers of fish present. In the confines of an aquarium it is a different story – this is why.
Though there are comparatively few fish in the aquarium, per gallon there are usually a lot, particularly in a fish only system. Also the parasites are restricted to the gallons and fish available, which is obvious, but it is that which causes the major problem.
The major problem is caused by the reproductive cycle of the parasites. If a fish is introduced to the aquarium with just one parasite attached to the outer body, this is enough. The parasite usually stays on the body of the fish for one or two days with white spot, three or four days with velvet, then it encysts and falls off. It drops to the bottom or on to rocks and begins to divide into many more parasites, and this process can last for up to two weeks. The parasites then reach the free swimming stage, when they search for a new host fish. A new host must be found within about 48 hours or the parasite will die. In the confines of the aquarium a fish or more will be found. The process then begins all over again. In due course, fish can become covered in parasites which continue their reproductive cycle. Eventually, the fish are so infested they die. Then the parasites will die too, but it is too late.
How are the problems recognised? First, fortunately white spot is fairly easy to see. The fish may ’scratch’ against rocks and may have one or two or more little white pimples anywhere on the body or fins. The spots are somewhere near the size of a pinhead.
If a pimple is seen then do not immediately assume that it is white spot. Observe if it goes away as sometimes a ’pimple’ is seen that is not white spot. However, watch very carefully for any development.
Velvet is more difficult to see. Again, the fish may ‘scratch’ against rocks. It is more likely that its gill beat (respiration) will be faster. It may hold its fins closed against the body. Note that the above symptoms may or may not be present. What are looked for on the body or fins of the fish are yellowish or white/grey spots. Unfortunately, these spots are very small and can hardly be seen. Try looking at the darker coloured areas of the fish. If a fish gives the chance, use a magnifying glass. Also, the aquarist can attempt to view the fish looking directly at the head when the fish’s body is behind the head (ie. head-on) – looking down the length of the fish the tiny spots might more easily be seen – the fish could appear to have a ‘dusting’. Velvet is the more deadly of the two problems, to a large extent because of the difficulty in identifying it.
With both problems, careful observation, consideration, and action are imperative. Failure to diagnose the presence of the parasites can lead to severe problems, at the worst all fish being badly infected and many or all facing death.
If the spots are parasites, then proper treatment must be given promptly. The headline rule is: “Don‘t Panic” When the spots are diagnosed, they do not develop so quickly that care cannot be taken.
If the aquarist has a fish only aquarium, then the best thing is to deal with all the fish as a safety measure. Dealing with just the fish showing a problem using a quarantine tank will not deal with any parasites that are in the aquarium, either in the division stage or unnoticed on another fish. All the fish can be moved to a quarantine tank if desired. They will have to stay in quarantine for at least two weeks, to try to ensure that any parasites in the display aquarium that are coming out of the divisional stage or swimming are dead as they couldn’t find a host. Whatever aquarium is used, the first action is to consider UV treatment of the display aquarium. If UV equipment is not held, then it is not absolutely necessary to buy a unit. UV will help destroy the parasites in their free swimming stage, but removal of all parasites is not guaranteed, and UV does nothing to parasites that are on a fish or encysted.
The use of a copper treatment will destroy the parasites. Warning: copper is deadly to
invertebrates. Do not use copper if invertebrates are present or it is intended to introduce any in the future. Stick strictly to the manufacturer’s recommendations about copper dosage and exposure time, and ensure there is a good copper concentration test kit available.
If invertebrates are a problem then see the reef system comments below. Invertebrates will be fine, of course, if they remain in the display aquarium when treatment is done in a quarantine tank. Obviously, ensure water is not transferred from the quarantine to the display aquarium.
When treatment is over and hopefully successful, and when the treatment was in the display aquarium, use a power filter and put activated carbon in. This will take out remaining copper. Throw away the water in a quarantine aquarium – do a larger (say 25%) water change in the display aquarium.
Keep a close eye on the fish to make sure all is well.
If the aquarist has a reef aquarium, then it is clear there will be livestock present that prohibits the use of copper. As above, if a UV unit is available, activate it immediately. Consider treating the fish in a quarantine aquarium also as above. It will be more difficult catching the fish as they are going to hide in the rockwork, and the aquarist will not be keen to dismantle the reef. If it is clear the fish cannot be successfully caught, then the option is to use a reef safe treatment.
Reef safe treatments have not been shown (to my knowledge) to be as effective as copper. Even though they are termed ‘reef safe’, the manufacturer’s instructions must be strictly adhered to. It is possible that in the treatment process some corals close up because of contact with the substance, or certain types of livestock must not be present.
Once treatment has ceased activated carbon should be introduced to clean up any treatment residue, subject to the instructions that came with the treatment. A larger than normal water change is also beneficial.
There are other treatments that can be used on infected fish other than described, but these require capture of the fish and removal from the display area, so the reef aquarist faces the same problem.
The best way to avoid problems such as described above is to purchase fish with great care, and introduce them with the same care. Stress is a large factor that can cause problems because of impaired immunity. The use of a quarantine aquarium is very sensible.
To end on a positive note, and assuming that fish are carefully introduced, the chance of problems as described are reduced nowadays. The greater knowledge and practice of wild capture techniques, better transportation of fish, and more knowledgeable retail shops means purchasing a healthy fish is more likely. The aquarist is the final guard however, and must never lower the defences: careful selection, careful introduction, careful ongoing observation, stress avoidance at all times, proper nutrition, and overall high class husbandry which includes high quality seawater.
Related Posts - Do Enough Aquarists Use Quarantine Tanks Keeping a marine aquarium be this a fish only aquarium, a coral only aquarium or a mixed reef aquarium one thing you are definitely going...
- Which To Choose - A Small Or Large Aquarium Most aquarists are dictated to by circumstance. There is a really big aquarium, at a really good price, but one rather definite problem, and that...
- Should You Keep A Fish Only Aquarium, Corals Only, Or A Mixed Reef? This decision is often taken in the planning stage, when considerations of equipment arise - what is needed? Some equipment is duplicated whatever the system...
- Reef Fish Behaviour In The Aquarium - A Wonder To Watch A major part of keeping a [tag-tec]saltwater aquarium[/tag-tec] is actually making the time to just sit there and watch it, well it is for me...
- How To Change A Fish Only Aquarium Into A Reef Aquarium caniThe aquarist running a fish only aquarium has gained a great deal of valuable knowledge about husbandry. He/she has also been able to keep fish...
Related Websites - BloodyDecks Yellowtail Shootout Short story, fishing was TOUGH! Long story Met up with Dave and Jake at the Harbor Island Sheraton in San Diego on Friday. With high...
- Fishing Report: December 11, 2009 Striped Bass, Crab and Halibut In Berkeley/Emeryville, there hasn't been a crab trip this week. The last went on Saturday, but it did come back...
- Fishing Report: August 6th, 2010 Lakes/Saltwater Anderson: Those who are looking for a good crappie bite should look toward the back of the bridge. The same can be said for...
New Look, New Design
February 25, 2008
As you can see we have had a bit of a face lift here at Aquarists Online.
We have been thinking about changing the theme for a while now and eventually found one which we thought suited what we write about quite well.
Quite a while was spent ironing out the bugs and we believe that we have found the majority of them. There are a few small things left to do but we are very happy with the result.
We have also given the forum a makeover as well and changed the theme so that it matches the main site as well as adding a brand new logo.
So what do you think – we are both really pleased with it. We believe that it is easier to navigate, easier to find the information, looks more professional and is more pleasing to the eye.
Be good to hear what you think.
Related Posts - Breeding Seahorses Despite the fact that more advanced marine aquarists visit Aquaristsonline in increasing numbers the website was originally targeted at beginners. Nothing has changed, so why...
- Aqua Compare Has Had A Bit Of A Re-Design A short while ago an upgrade was released in relation to the software we use behind Aqua Compare. This upgrade basically makes the site easier...
- Mixing Saltwater Saltwater is going to be mixed many times from the very creation of the aquarium way into the future. It is my opinion that a...
- How Does Aqua Compare Work? We have had a few emails recently asking what Aqua Compare is, how it can benefit them and how it works. Basically Aqua Compare is...
- The Staghorn Coral These corals belong to the hard type and are much used in reef aquariums. Writing a text on them in general terms is the only...
Related Websites - "Energy Citizen" Ads Are From The American Petroleum Institute. Think those Energy Citizen ads are really being aired in your best interest of saving a few bucks on energy costs? Think again - they...
- Choosing the Best Tennis Shoes Tennis shoes, which also referred to gym shoes or athletic shoes, are designed primarily to handle sporting activities and other strenuous activities. Tennis shoes are...
- Your Thoughts (Pics)? http://www.postimage.org/image.php?v=gxLitJi What are your thoughts on these sneakers for guys? Be honest. People opinion : RODRIGO say : Depends on your style!! Im more of...
- Building a Better Brand With Corporate Blogging If you are looking to build up your company’s brand, one of the easiest ways to achieve this is through corporate blogging. There are numerous...
- 6 Tennis Tips and Tricks Tennis tips and tricks are like small tweaks that you can make to your game in order to improve your play. If you are looking...
Guard Those Intakes!
February 23, 2008
Be it a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium, there are going to be intakes to canister filters, protein skimmers, sumps, power heads and the like. The equipment fitted is important to the quality of the seawater and its movement.
This water quality is to enhance the life of the inmates. There is a danger that the intakes to devices such as the examples given could in fact be a threat to mobile livestock such as fish and shrimps. There is also the danger that other livestock such as corals could be damaged if they grow or are placed too close.
Taking corals first, and really considering the soft variety, many are able to grow to quite a size. If this growth brings the coral anywhere near an intake then the coral tip could be sucked in and damaged.
Fish and shrimps like to find hide holes that are secure. It has been known for them to enter an intake with a view to a secure home, only to become stuck because of the water flow and subsequently die. It has also been known for a small fish to end up in the sump, having journeyed down the feed pipe. Lucky in that case and usually no harm done. Established fish could be searching for a better home, perhaps because another fish has taken over their previous residence. Newly introduced fish have a priority to find a home and safety, searching carefully and investigating anything that looks hopeful to check if it is occupied.
Quite apart from the potential danger to the trapped fish or shrimp, there is the question of the interruption to the water flow. This could be serious in certain cases if not noticed by the aquarist for a while.
The potential problem is easily avoided by always using the intake guards that are provided with powerheads, canister filters, protein skimmers and the like. If there is any other intake, perhaps one incorporated by the aquarist in the design, it is simplicity itself to put a mesh guard over it.
Related Posts - Do You Have To Use Reverse Osmosis Water? Reverse osmosis (R/O) water seems to pop up very regularly in questions and discussions. Some aquarists consider the R/O filter to be another piece of...
- Can You Imagine Them Yesterday? - Yesterday They Couldn’t Imagine Us Wild coral reefs don’t think (if they could) in terms of ‘yesterday’ as we understand it. Yesterday could be a thousand years ago or more....
- It Takes Time Any experienced aquarist can understand why a newcomer to the hobby really wants to see some livestock in their aquarium, because those aquarists have been...
- The Essential Bacterial Service There is one area in the aquarium no matter if it is fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium that the aquarist must have. If...
- Aquariums Are So Relaxing I have to admit that I have had an absolutely atrocious day at work today. So much to do, so little time. Everyone wanting something...
Related Websites - Couple of Ideas for Landscape Design Every tree and plant that you put into the ground helps the environment and helps to heal the ozone layer. If you want to contribute...
- Ideas for Green Home Improvement There are a wide variety of different green home improvement options that you can pursue that are going to improve your home. Some of them...
- How to Handle Mold in Your Home Mold is a serious problem for many homes, especially those in humid climates. However, some areas of your home are going to be more likely...
- What Fish Don’t Want You To Know By Frank P. Baron If you love fishing as much as boating, then chances are you’ve experienced the joy and agony of this sport. One of the best reasons...
- Buying a Gun Scope When you're buying a gun scope, choosing the biggest and most expensive isn't always going to guarantee you a great product. It's true that you...
What Is The Best Salinity To Keep A Saltwater Aquarium At?
February 22, 2008
The salinity of the marine aquarium is one of the major parameters that must be routinely checked. Salinity can change because of evaporation, and it is important to keep it stable. Daily top-ups of the water to a pre-determined level is an easy way, or using an auto top-up device.
Aquarists normally deal with [tag-tec]specific gravity[/tag-tec] (SG) which is a straightforward measurement to obtain. The instrument used is a [tag-self]hydrometer[/tag-self], normally of the swing needle or floating needle type. They are both accurate enough for hobby purposes, and any small inaccuracy can usually be disregarded as long as the measurement is stable.
On the wild reef the [tag-self]salinity[/tag-self] measures an average 35 parts per thousand (ppt) *. 35 ppt is the equivalent of close to SG 1.026. It would seem therefore that an SG of 1.026 should be maintained. There are many aquarists who consider this to be correct, stating that mother nature knows best. These aquarists include several well known names, and they are concerned with captive reef systems.
The fish only aquarium can be kept at a lower SG. In the many years that aquarists have kept fish only systems, and remember these existed well before captive reefs, it was found that there were advantages in maintaining a lower SG. First of all, there was evidence that certain fish parasites do not do well at a lower SG. This is supported to an extent by one method of dealing with parasite infected fish – lowering the SG to destroy them. However, the SG being considered here is not as low as that. The level is 1.022. This will mean that the fish hopefully will not fall foul of parasites so easily, and the cost of salt to the aquarist will be lower (though the cost is not the most important consideration). It has also been stated that the marine fish natural bodily function of water transference is less strenuous. There is no evidence that maintaining fish at a lower SG is detrimental to them.
SG in a captive reef system is not so straightforward. A higher SG should be maintained as there is evidence that some corals may not open polyps in a lower one. Corals are also stressed over the long term by a too high or worse too low SG and could even die if the situation was allowed to continue. As said this is long term – changes in SG of a short duration, though very undesirable, will not have the same result. It is reported that soft corals are more influenced by incorrect SG *.
I have a soft coral reef that I do not maintain at 1.026. It is maintained at 1.024. This level does not fluctuate by any amount to speak of. The corals are healthy and growing and there are, and have never been, any signs of stress.
So, an aquarist keeping a fish only aquarium can safely reduce the SG to 1.022. There is no reason it could not be higher, after all the fish live in the wild at a higher level, but it is well known that a lower SG will do no harm.
Where there are corals involved, it will be best to maintain a higher level of 1.026. The aquarist with the confidence of experience can lower this SG very carefully over a lengthy period, and note if there are any bad reactions by the corals. If there are, the SG must be raised, again over a period. Sudden changes are not wanted. If there are no bad reactions, then SG 1.024 is probably the lowest that should be maintained.
If aquarists are able to take their swing needle or float needle hydrometers to somewhere that can test the accuracy against a known correct measure, all the better. The aquarist can then add to or take from the required measurement on their hydrometer to obtain more accuracy.
( * Reference: Eric Borneman. Aquarium Corals)
Related Posts - Aquarium Additives and Hard Corals The reef aquarium with hard corals ([tag-tec]SPS[/tag-tec]) is the desire of many an aquarist. The sight of pictures on the internet and in books only...
- A ‘Perfect’ Standard Set-up Is there such a thing as a perfect aquarium set-up? The answer is a clear ‘no’. This is because the system would need hardly any...
- 10 Tips When Considering Setting Up A Saltwater Aquarium There is a bucket load of information available to people when they are considering starting their very own [tag-self]saltwater aquarium[/tag-self]. In the majority of instances...
- Aquaculture Farms Do Not Need To Be Large When an aquarist or anyone for that matter start to think about an aquaculture farm they will probably think of huge establishments with exceptionally large...
- Phosphate And How To Manage It The salt water aquarist runs tests to ensure that the water quality in his/her aquarium is up to scratch. One of the tests should be...
Related Websites - Canadian Fishing Excursions Canada is on the top of the list when it comes to monumental fishing. Canadian fishing trips guarantee any fisher unlimited fishing options that are...
- Boating and Fishing Glossary Continued Bluegill - A common member of the sunfish family. This word is not interchangeable for panfish or sunfish. Bobber - A small float that is...
- Fishing Equipment You Absolutely Need Go into any bait and tackle shop and you’ll be astounded by the sheer amount of selection that is available. Do you really need all...
- Islands 'Defy' Sea-Level Rise Introduction This week will see some news that will be twisted and churned by the climate change sceptics... Apparently, the coral islands are responding well...
- California's Best Fishing Waters (Wilderness Adventures Press Map Book) User Reviews Send this to a friend California's Best Fishing Waters (Wilderness Adventures Press Map Book) Manufacturer: Wilderness Adventures Press Customer Rating: List Price: $28.95...
Recent Comments