Building The Reef

The aquarium is in position and equipment is available. Now comes the most exciting part of all, building the reef and stocking. Reef construction first, of course.

The aquarist may have decided that live rock is just too expensive at the moment and has decided to use an alternative bio-filtration method. In this case the cost is going to be greatly reduced. The rocks purchased will need to be inert (ie. marine safe) and it is unlikely that any marine retailer will sell anything that isn’t.

Before the aquarist jumps in and buys some rock, remember that corals are going to be added and corals normally come attached to rock. This rock will be from the ocean and may bear life forms similar to live rock. It is to most intents and purposes live rock. Perhaps the rock purchased for the reef can be those which are highly porous. If this is the case marine organisms will in time establish homes in and on it. In time it can even become live as bacteria make a home.

On the other hand, the aquarist may have decided to use live rock. The price may have been high, but nevertheless that is the road chosen. There is a way of reducing the cost and that is to buy less and use safe porous rock as well. The proportions can be ½ and ½ or more, that is more live rock. It is worthwhile purchasing premium live rock so it can go on the reef surface, and it is spread reasonably equally over the reef. In time the porous rock should take on marine life and become live. The only potential problem here is the initial bio- filtration. Reef systems, with a view to water quality, have a lower fish load and the bio filtration should initially cope, and with slow stocking the capacity will increase. The aquarist must be aware that the initial bio-filtration is lower and keep an eye out for problems. On initial start up water parameters are regularly routinely tested anyway.

Perhaps the aquarist is going to use all live rock. The usual guideline for the amount of live rock to use is 1 to1½ lbs per gallon of the whole system net gallonage. This is fine, but a problem arises because some live rock is considerably lighter than others. So a different guideline can be used and that is that the reef should be around 2/3rds of the capacity of the display tank. This is often the amount that is to be used anyway to create an attractive reef, and offers the aquarist room to aquascape and also leaves water space for fish. Costs can be reduced with all live rock by buying premium rock to cover the outer reef and base rock for the foundation.

The following is a personal view. Many aquarists place their rocks directly on the aquarium base. I prefer to raise them above the base, say 1″ to 1½”. This allows water to easily access the area. The job is very easy and cheap using plastic ’egg crate‘. (See the text ‘Elevate Your Reef’ under DIY.)

Whether the rocks are put on the aquarium base or not, and whether the rocks used are live rock, a live/inert rock mix, or all inert rock, the following applies. It is important that the rocks are not ’fitted’ together too tightly. Accurate fits are not possible, of course, as the rocks are pretty random in shape. The rocks of the reef should have gaps and tunnels throughout, and their random shapes should assist with this. Having good gaps and tunnels allows water to flow throughout the structure more easily. If there is good water flow then there will not be any area lacking in oxygen or even stagnant. The spaces between rocks afford livestock plenty of hide holes. The rocks also need to be stable to avoid any rock fall.

Putting the reef together can be great fun. When I did mine, I started again at one point, even though most of the rocks were in the tank. Eventually, I achieved what I wanted, and also managed to make a couple of small caves within the structure. I know that the Flame Angel uses one at night.

Particularly with live rock, but also with other rock if desired, it is advantageous to have the aquarium say 2/3rds full of prepared seawater which is heated to the desired temperature. As the rocks go in the water rises. When the rock work is complete if the water is short of the required level it can be topped up. The circulators can be turned on and there’s the reef.

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Tags: aquarium, aquascaping, live-rock, marine-aquarium, reef-tank, saltwater-aquarium

Maintenance Day - Extended

Maintenance day comes once a week when the necessary checks and cleaning are done to keep the display (a soft coral reef) looking at its best. The display is fine during the week, just the slow accumulation of algae on the viewing glass. It only needs a daily top-up to adjust the water level and, of course, the inmates need feeding. Feeding is a real pleasure, the fish have been in for well over five years and nearly talk to me when I’m near. ‘Food, you idiot’ I can almost hear them call.

Anyway, the maintenance. As usual, the glasses were cleaned, no big deal, not a lot of algae. Pumps, skimmer, lights and filters were checked, as was the temperature. No problems.

Having finished, I always make time to look at the display, to appreciate it. It was during this that I noticed a large soft branching coral leaning way over another, and the smaller one had some of its polyps closed. Clearly didn’t like being in contact. Right, thought I, I’ll check the size of the bigger coral. So I carefully bent the bigger coral so I could see the base. The coral now nearly covered the rock it had been ‘planted’ on. As I released the coral the epoxy putty that fixed the rock came away. The rock fell over. ‘Oh dear’ I said…or something like that!

Having brought the packet of epoxy putty from storage in preparation, I studied the position the rock would need to go in so that the bigger coral would not over reach the smaller one. During this my eye was drawn to a solid mass of colour further along the back of the tank. This mass turned out to be ten baby toadstools (Sarcophyton sp). The heads were from about ¾” to 1 ½” in diameter. From above they were a solid mass of polyps. It was obvious that, left alone, there would be problems with growth, eventually affecting two larger toadstools. These ten babies were pruned, this was done by removing the heads. It is likely that at least some of the stalks will form new heads. Having removed these ten, I saw two more lower down (I was a bit surprised - what about the light?). These two also had their heads removed. Sounds like something from the French revolution. There remains a group of three slightly larger toadstools, a bigger one toward the back glass, and one on the left, nearer the front, half way down the reef.

Job done, except I still needed to put the other coral rock back with the epoxy putty. This is an easy job and didn’t take long.

Once again I sat back and viewed the display. Some of the corals were not too pleased at my efforts and were sulking. Not a problem, they’ll soon be out again.

I put away the equipment and additives etc needed for the routine maintenance. Cup of coffee time.

I’m not sure what made me do it, but just before I lowered the lighting array, I ran my eye over the back of the tank from above. Maybe I was hoping to see a baby coral of a different type or something. What I did see was not pleasing.

At first I thought there was only one. Easily recognisable. Not wanted. An aiptasia anemone. Soon sort you out. I have a continuing argument with aiptasia and have fairly regular skirmishes with them. I’d discovered the aiptasia because with the toadstools present it couldn’t be seen.

Out came Joe’s Juice (good old Joe, whoever he is!) and I placed the syringe over the anemone. No problem. The anemone reacted swiftly as usual.

Trouble was, I now realised there were more than one, maybe five or so, but not particularly large, the tallest being around 1″. They were accessible. I’ve learned to be quite sneaky, not throwing a shadow over the anemones or touching them as they may retract. The fluid was applied successfully - the anemones reacted as they should.

The maintenance took twice as long as normal. Still, if I hadn’t done the toadstool pruning…

I’m always on watch for changes in the display and coral problems (usually excess growth).

I just wish the aiptasia could be more useful, like providing food for a reef friendly colourful creature that will most definitely eat them.

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Tags: aquarium, Aquarium Maintenance, Care, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, reef-tank, saltwater-aquarium

Do You Have To Use Reverse Osmosis Water?

Reverse osmosis (R/O) water seems to pop up very regularly in questions and discussions. Some aquarists consider the R/O filter to be another piece of equipment that is not really necessary. There is quite a bit of confusion particularly with beginners, which is understandable when the whole spectrum of equipment and guidelines for keeping marine systems is considered.

The heading question can be answered straightaway - no, you don’t. If you’re lucky, and have a water source such as a well that provides water of high purity, or live in an area where tap water is of a really high standard and not polluted with nitrates, insecticides, metals, bacteria (I won’t go on) then the tank seawater mix could well be of high quality.

Some aquarists have tried using bottled spring water and found that the purity was in fact not as thought and/or the cost was prohibitive. Similarly, some have obtained a supply of distilled water from a chemist or other source and tried that. This proved to be an inefficient way of obtaining the amounts of seawater - multiple gallons - often required, plus the cost.

A few other aquarists have turned to Mother Nature, a fine choice provided the transportation and storage needs can be met, and an unpolluted source can be found.

So for the majority it is the household tap. The water from the mains tap is purified and regulations exist for the amounts of pollutants that are acceptable. Nitrate can be present in a surprisingly high amount, as can phosphate, plus the insecticides etc mentioned earlier.

The water from the tap at the very least should be tested for nitrates and phosphates before consideration is given to using it for a salt mix. If tests are not done then the aquarist is possibly preparing a potential home for nuisance algae, particularly if high power lighting is being used. Added to the pollutants in the tap water are the natural developments in the tank because of the natural processes of the livestock, and the results of potential overfeeding.

Personally, I find it difficult to follow the logic (should I say illogic) of not using R/O water. First, look at the expense the aquarist has accepted in preparing the aquarium system, having purchased lights, salt mix, test kits, a protein skimmer, canister filter, heater(s), circulation pumps, maybe a calcium reactor etc, and also of course the aquarium and stand. Then there is the internal decoration, such as live rock and maybe sand. The fish and corals haven’t been mentioned yet! Whether a fish only or reef system, it all represents a fair sized investment.

Over and over emphasis is placed on the need for high quality water. To this end, the dry salt mix that most aquarists use is manufactured to a high purity, lacking in such unwanted substances as nitrate and phosphate. Why add less than ideal water to it?

If there is a marine retailer close by, R/O water may be available to purchase by the gallon. Quite reasonably, the retailer has to make a profit. Moving the water in containers is not the easiest practice.

If the aquarist purchased an R/O filter then production of purified water would be straightforward and predictable demand easily met. The cost of the filter, particularly when the cost of other items of equipment is considered, is reasonable.

R/O water is generally 95 to 98% pure and the environment for the aquarium livestock would be enhanced, which is probably the most important point, and the possible appearance of undesirable headache algae would be reduced.

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, Care, Equipment, reverse-osmosis, Water Quality

Are There Any Alternatives To Joe’s Juice?

No, no, I haven’t finally flipped despite my wife’s worries. This has nothing to do with refreshments, but is to do with marine aquariums, fish only or reef, though reef systems are most likely to be concerned.

Occasionally, aquarists are faced with a problem. Usually the problem can be fixed - a broken pump, a failed light, even a sick fish. In this case, though, we are faced with a potential invasion. A serious invasion and it could end up as a continuing battle.

So what is being talked about? Aiptasia, commonly known as glass anemones or rock anemones. One or two may appear in the aquarium having come in with live rock or coral rock. They are opaque, and grow at quite a fast rate. Left alone, they can spread alarmingly, and to such an extent that they are everywhere. Though they could be an interesting addition to the aquarium, this spreading ability makes early action a necessity.

The worst thing that the aquarist can do is to squash them or chop them, as it is more than likely that some of the bits will develop into new anemones making the situation worse than in the first place.

What is Joe’s Juice? This is a commercial application that can be used to kill the anemones. A small bottle is supplied with a syringe. Circulation pumps have to be turned off, then the liquid is dropped onto the anemones. The reaction of the anemone is swift as the liquid is lethal. The application does not hurt any other livestock, but the aquarist needs to be careful that the liquid does not get onto any polyps etc that are wanted.

Joe’s Juice is not the only anti-aiptasia product available, but it is possibly the best known and easily available at local retailers, or failing that on the internet from websites such as Marine Depot.

Some aquarists worry about adding liquids to their aquarium as some of the liquid unavoidably  dissipates into the seawater. Heavily instilled into them is the requirement for high quality seawater and this is the reason for the worry. I seem to have constant skirmishes with aiptasia and the liquid has never had any effect other than to the aiptasia anemones.

Marine aquariums have moved towards more natural methods, for example live rock and deep sand beds (DSB’s). Is there a way that Mother Nature can assist with removal of the anemones without resorting to man-made preparations? Nature usually has a predator or two available.

In the case of the anemones, two possibilities come to mind. The first is a fish, the second a shrimp.

The fish is the lovely copper-band butterfly (Chelmon rostratus). This really is a super fish for an aquarium in its own right. If the aquarist wants to try one of these, then the normal guidelines for purchasing and compatibility with other tank inmates apply. They are reported as ‘safe’ in a reef system, but will destroy fan-worms and the like. They are most likely to be happy in an aged system as there are likely to be more tiny shrimps etc living in the rocks. As can be seen from the nose of the fish, the long snout is designed for poking in crevices and holes to dig food out. The aquarist should also be aware that the fish can feed quite reasonably, but there are many cases where aquarists have had trouble, and struggled to keep the fish healthy because of difficult feeding.

Anyway, back to the anemones. Quite a number of aquarists have reported success with anemones and the fish. After introduction, the anemones have reduced or disappeared. There is discussion whether this is because the fish is actually eating them, or just biting them causing damage. I don’t think aquarists will care as long as there is positive reduction in the numbers, and hopefully ongoing control. Pretty good so far.

Right, here it comes. There are aquarists who have followed this route and the fish have shown no interest in the anemones at all - not a bit. So these aquarists are left with the anemone problem, but at least have gained a beautiful fish.

The second possibility is the shrimp commonly known as the peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). This follows the pattern laid down for the copper-band butterfly, in that some aquarists have found them highly effective and others of no use at all (as far as the anemones go). However, again the shrimp is well worth keeping in a reef system, as long as there are plenty of hiding places and there isn’t anything that will view them as a tasty morsel.

So the aquarist has the option to try and control the aiptasia anemones with either one of the alternatives. It could be, if the first effort fails, that the other could be tried if compatible. Failing that, the alternative is Joe’s Juice or a similar commercial application.

I feel that there must be something that nature has that feeds directly on aiptasia anemones, something that definitely includes the little blighters on its regular menu. Maybe a snail, or a worm or a nudibranch. I for one would be delighted if the name of such a useful life form could be made available.

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Tags: aquarium, Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, Care, Equipment, Water Quality

Why Does Sand Become Such A Detritus Trap?

Not all marine aquarium systems use sand. These are said to be ‘bare-bottom‘, and the aquarists have decided to forego a sand bed in the interests of cleanliness. When the aquarium is new, the bare bottom does look unfinished, but in a little time if the seawater conditions are correct the bottom is covered in different algae, and this can look very attractive. Note this is not the often persistent nuisance algae, but decorative types.

I would hazard a guess that the majority of systems have sand in. This can be either decorative sand or a deep sand bed (DSB) or plenum (a raised DSB).

The sand used on a DSB is of fine particles, and dirt that reaches its surface has a tendency to sit there. Eventually it is utilised by the tiny life forms that inhabit the area. Some may penetrate a little way but not a lot and not very far. These beds are around 4″ deep or more.

If the sand is used for decorative purposes only it is placed in the display aquarium and covers the base. The sand is usually coarse and makes a very attractive addition to the aquarium. These beds are often up to 1″ deep.

The reason the sand becomes dirty is mainly because of the size of the grains. In the DSB as stated it is fine, perhaps it could be described as very fine. If a fairly strong water current hits it  a cloud can be raised. Though problems can arise with a DSB, with proper construction and sufficient life it is not usually dirt penetration.

The coarse sand of the decorative sand bed is a different story. Fish faeces, bits of food, dead algae and other general rubbish can fall to the bed. It breaks down and falls between the grains. The grains are coarse enough to allow tiny dirt particles to follow the ’channels’ formed by the spaces between grains. Enough of this dirt can cause the sand to become clogged. This was a major problem with the under gravel filter of yesteryear, which pulled water down through coarse sand and the dirt with it.

With a decorative bed the way to prevent this is to stir the sand frequently with a clean stick. The stirring can be reasonably vigorous and is best done at the time a routine water change is performed. This allows the aquarist to stir the sand and follow the stirring stick with the intake of the water hose, removing dirt. There isn’t any need to do all the sand bed at once, just a proportion at each change. The aquarist can become very expert at this job.

A DSB should never be stirred or the disturbance can spoil the filtration capability of the bed. As said, a well made DSB will possibly look scruffy but should never become really dirty.

It is important to stir a decorative sand bed routinely as described as it prevents the bed from becoming really dirty, which would make the cleaning job much more difficult. If the bed is really very dirty, it would probably be best to siphon out a proportion of the bed at each water change, thoroughly rinse it, and then return it. Routine stirring will prevent the need for drastic cleaning and maintain the attractive appearance of the display aquarium.

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Tags: Aquarium Filtration, Aquarium Maintenance, Care, deep-sand-bed, plenum

I’ve Heard Of The Cleaner Shrimp But What Is The Cleaner Fish?

I would imagine that all marine aquarists have heard of, and probably seen, the cleaner shrimp (Lysmata amboinensis). This colourful shrimp is very popular, becoming used to the aquarist very quickly and even walking around on the hand if the opportunity presents itself - a large and strangely shaped fish to be cleaned perhaps.

There is another creature known for the natural cleaning activities it undertakes. This is the cleaner wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus). The fish is commonly known as the cleaner wrasse or blue streak wrasse. There are other reef fish that undertake cleaning duties particularly when juvenile, but this wrasse does it as a full time job.

The wrasse likes to go into a small hole or crevice for security when night arrives. During the day, it seldom moves far from the area, as it is a cleaning station. In other words, the little wrasse, usually in a group, wait for other fish to come so that they can be cleared of parasites and other irritants. The wrasse goes busily about the fish being cleaned, as this is the food source. They will even enter the mouths and gills of bigger fish, including predators - the larger fish normally hang still, fins spread when being cleaned, and keep their mouths open to allow easy access. The cleaner wrasse are protected from predation during this activity possibly by their swimming motion, colours, shape, or all three. The cleaner stations are well known to other reef inhabitants, and it is known for fish to wait and queue patiently for attention. There are always enough fish for cleaning, and thus food for the wrasse.

As with many wrasse, the cleaner is hardy in a good aquarium environment. It needs plenty of swimming space and places to hide. The normal caution should be exercised with regard to health when purchasing one.

On the wild reef there are plenty of fish to be cleaned, but not so in the aquarium. Even in a fish only system where there are normally more fish per gallon, there is insufficient natural food. It follows that this will be the same in a reef system. Also of course, the last thing the aquarist wants is parasites in the aquarium. Talking of parasites, it might be thought that the wrasse could be of use in a fight against marine white spot or velvet. Unfortunately, this is reportedly not the case and the wrasse is vulnerable to the parasites as well.

When considering introducing a cleaner wrasse to the aquarium, the usual compatibility question applies, though this is not usually a problem from the wrasse‘s point of view. When the wrasse is in the aquarium, natural instincts continue. It may ‘think’ that the fish in the area are waiting for cleaning and attempt to carry out this task. These attempts can continue over and over again, day after day, and other fish can be highly irritated by the attention. The wrasse may be repeatedly warned off, though it is unlikely to be attacked, though if the system is a fish only with predators there could be a problem. Some predators, such as lionfish, may not have very good manners! It is said that if the wrasse ‘learns’ when food is available and responds to it with the other fish, the cleaning drive could diminish, as the driving force, hunger, is reduced.

As with other fish it is a good idea to ask a retailer to put a little food in the aquarium and watch the response of the wrasse. Many wrasse are easy to feed, generally being gluttons, and the cleaner type is reported to feed well too. There have been reports of starved cleaners that perished, but this does not appear to be the norm.

The food fed needs to have a little resemblance to that in the wild. Fortunately, most other fish will take it as well. Try frozen foods that are prepared for marines, such as mysis shrimp, artemia, shellfish, squid, lobster eggs and the like. Some may need to be chopped so that the cleaner can handle them. It is reported that the fish will often take flake food. A diet with plenty of variety, plus flake if possible, should be successful. Fed carefully, the seawater conditions should not deteriorate as other fish present will eat the same diet.

On the wild reef mimicry is not unknown, and so it is with the cleaner wrasse. Other fish trust the wrasse and do not hesitate to present themselves for cleaning. Taking advantage of this is a fish which is closely coloured and patterned. This is the false cleaner (Aspidontus taeniatus), which in fact is a blenny. What it does is present itself to a fish which is ready for cleaning, but instead of being useful it quickly bites a bit of fin or scale and dashes off. Not the way to win fishy friends! It is unlikely to be obtained in mistake for a proper cleaner, but the two are easily identifiable, the proper cleaner has a mouth at the front of the fish, the false one has an underslung mouth.

There are other cleaner wrasse, but none are reported to take to aquarium food as readily (I’d better avoid the word ‘easily‘) as the one discussed.

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Tags: aquarium, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, marine-fish, saltwater-aquarium, saltwater-fish

Try To Keep Your Hands Out Of The Aquarium As Much As Possible

One of the things which a lot of aquarists do in my opinion is put their hands into the aquarium far too often.

Of course there are times when this must be done. During maintenance periods, to pick up a coral which has fallen over, to rescue a trapped hermit crab, to move a coral etc. These are all ok, however there are a lot of people who simply cannot stop fiddling with their aquarium.

So what’s the problem then?

Well simply put the corals etc do not like to be disturbed. On top of that our hands are quite oily. When you put your hands into the aquarium the fish will bolt into the rockwork and hide (apart from the bold ones who think that they are going to be fed) and some of the corals will retract their polyps.

A lot of aquarists nowadays wear gloves when they put their hands into the aquarium. This prevents the oil from our hands getting into the water and annoying the corals. A lot of fish shops also now do this. In fish shops they have to put their hands in more than most as they are continuously removing corals which have been purchased and placing new corals into their tanks ready for sale.

Too many times do I hear of people in my local fish shop saying that they cannot get their newly purchased coral to look as good as it did in the fish shop. They talk about water quality being excellent, the lighting being right etc but the coral still does not fully come out. There always seems to be a statement made somewhere in the conversation that they have tried it in various different locations around the aquarium. Well to me this just means that they have been moving the coral about!

Before the coral is purchased and placed into the aquarium it should be researched as to what it’s requirements are. You should know what water movement, what lighting and what feeding (if any) the coral requires.

Once you know this then you have two options:

1. Place the coral in the location where it’s requirements are met.
2. Place the coral at the bottom of the aquarium and over time (2-4 week period) slowly move the coral up until it is in it’s final position.

Of course even doing this does not mean that the coral will fully come out. If the coral does not come out fully and you have verified that all parameters are excellent and you feel that moving it will be benficial then do so - but not all the time. I have heard of people who have a coral which does not come out so they move it. The next day it still is not out so they move it again, and again, and again. Each time the coral is being touched - it is no surprise that the coral does not come out!

If you do need to move a coral then move it but wait a couple of weeks before deciding whether to move it again. Give the coral time to get used to its new home.

I appreciate that this is hard. Maybe you visit a fish shop and see a lovely coral which will fit into a gap which you have in your rockwork. You can imagine what it will look like and you want to purchase it. So you purchase the coral, take it home and it does not come out, so you move it to a different place and it still does not come out so you move it again and so on.

In this instance you would not have been able to research it as you were not planning on getting a new coral. Why not ask a member of staff at the shop what it’s requirements are and ensure that these requirements will be met in the space you have planned in your aquarium. If it’s requirements are met then great you are onto a winner. If not then you can either put it in a different location or make the decision not to purchase it.

When the coral is purchased from the fish shop you cannot expect it to come out straight away. It needs to get used to your water conditions, your temperature etc. Every day the coral should come out a little bit more. It may take weeks before it is out fully. Be patient!

In my opinion too many people purchase livestock without actually learning what they need - it is our responsibility to ensure that their needs are met.

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Tags: aquarium, Corals, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, reef-tank, saltwater-aquarium

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