Have A Soft Flow For Better Polyp Extension

Seawater movement in the aquarium is a known requirement. This movement is needed by all marine aquarium creatures to a greater or lesser extent.

The aquarist who keeps a fish only system may believe that seawater movement is not so important and that belief is correct. However, fish need reasonable movement to prevent an area of ‘dead’ seawater developing around their body. It is also much more natural to have healthy movement as this is after all what occurs in their natural habitat, the wild reef. Fish also have a strong demand for oxygen and seawater movement maximizes good gas exchange.

Corals have a greater demand for seawater movement generally. This demand does vary between types, for example soft corals, again generally speaking, need less flow than hard corals, particularly the SPS (small polyp stony) types. As a general guideline to seawater movement, in the aquarium a soft coral display requires around 10 times the net gallonage to be moved per hour, and hard corals around 20 times or more. This movement is within the display aquarium, and does not apply to seawater moving through a sump.

The normal way of generating this movement is to employ power heads. More than one is usual, so that the outputs clash and chaotic and random movement is achieved. The output of the normal power head exits from a nozzle of, say, ½” (circa 12mm) in diameter. As this nozzle is narrow and the output is high, the seawater forms a powerful and narrow stream. This can be damaging to corals should it have a direct impact and care is needed in the coral’s placement. Even then corals in a good environment grow and may enter the high speed stream zone.

There is a relatively new type of power head now available which serves the same purpose as the type mentioned already. There is a very significant difference however, and this is that the nozzle is much wider, measuring around say 2½” to 3″ (circa 63mm to 75mm). Seawater leaving exits in a much gentler manner, which is not in a narrow stream but in a broader front. As the seawater stream is not so damaging the amount of seawater that is moved can be significantly increased over the older types of device, so the total amount of seawater that needs to be moved per hour is more easily achieved. The movement is more natural as well, as the stream forms, as said, a wider front. In the same way that the older power heads can be used in opposition, so can the wide output types. In fact, if two or more are used in opposition on timers then a wave system is not that difficult to generate.

The result of all this is generally happier corals. Provided the currents are not so strong that soft corals are being overcome by the surge and even hard corals are hard put to expand properly, the aquarist should see the corals are expanding and extending their polyps noticeably more.

The only time when the wide outlet power heads could need their output reducing is at feeding time to enable the fish to feed at leisure. Control units for the power heads, if used, normally have this ‘pause’ facility built in. Some aquarists also reduce the output of the power heads at night.

Anything that makes the aquarium environment a more natural one isn’t a bad thing, and the use of wide outlet power heads is a step in this direction.

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Tags: aquarium-pump, Corals, Equipment, power head, reef-aquarium, Water Movement

The Aquarium Sump Can Be Used For So Many Things

Marine systems of whatever type, reef aquarium or fish only aquarium, can function successfully on their own without a sump, provided they are properly supported by equipment, are not overstocked and ongoing routine maintenance is completed. There is a way to enhance the seawater quality in the aquarium even if all the necessary guidelines have been followed religiously and that is to have a sump.

An aquarium sump is to all intents and purposes another aquarium attached to the main display. Seawater is pumped up from the sump to the display aquarium and flows down again by gravity, usually by the use of an overflow pipe. This flow is easily achieved.

All that is needed is to measure the available space for the sump - it could be inside the cabinet cupboard if there is one, in a separate housing alongside but below the main aquarium, or even in an adjoining room. Generally the bigger it is the better. Once the available space has been measured the aquarist can purchase a suitable aquarium. There will need to be at least two dividers in the sump, the first one is to accept incoming seawater and the last one is to create an area for the return pump. Some aquarists have more dividers for their own reasons, but two serve the basic purpose. The glass for these dividers does not need to be thick as there is supporting seawater on both sides. There isn’t any chance of a leak once they are siliconed in place as all joints are inside an already watertight unit. The finished job does not need to be perfect as it is in the sump and not on display. Measuring and siliconing the glass is a simple job, there needs to be an overflow at the top of each divider which is created by making the top of the dividers around ½ inch lower than the seawater level. If the aquarist doesn’t fancy the job then a local marine pet store will often do the job for not much money, especially if the needed aquarium has been purchased from the same shop.

The question of drilling the display aquarium for an overflow to feed the sump is one that puts many DIYers off. Again, the local marine shop will often do the job, or if not a local plumber often will. Alternatively, an overflow device can be used. These fit on the edge of the aquarium and seawater overflows by siphon. These units are available commercially, but do project above the top of the main aquarium to an extent so space needs to be available.

The first advantage in having a sump is that the system seawater gallonage has been increased. This means that seawater quality will be enhanced as there are more gallons per fish. Note that the extra gallonage created is not a reason to increase fish stocks as this would negate the advantage and also possibly create space problems in the main aquarium. There will also be an increase in the amount of seawater used for the routine seawater change; this is not a problem as generally the sump isn’t that large.

So what else could the sump be useful for? Again with a view to high quality seawater a deep sand bed (DSB) could be placed between the two dividers. The depth of the DSB usually starts at 4″ and many aquarists have them deeper than this. Note that ordinary coarse coral sand is not used as it needs to be fine sand. There is an article on DSB construction on the Aquarists Online website. Another way to achieve the same thing would be to install a plenum, which is a raised DSB. I believe most aquarists use a standard DSB. The aquarist should see many tiny life forms inhabiting the DSB which generally widens interest in the aquarium system.

The macro algae Caulerpa could be used in the sump. Again this algae is used for filtration as it feeds on nitrate and phosphate. Once established it needs to be harvested from time to time. The aquarist will need to provide lighting. This is not expensive to purchase or run as fluorescent tubes (T5’s or T8’s) fitted with reflectors are sufficient, usually two are positioned along the length of the sump. An electric timer is also needed if the aquarist is to run the lighting on a cycle. If so, it is advantageous to have the sump lights on when the main aquarium lights are off. The reason for this is that it helps stabilize pH.

Additional live rock could be placed in the sump (but not on top of a DSB as it would cause compaction). This increases the bio-filtration should this be needed and at the same time creates a new mini-world for the aquarist.

If the aquarist has a problem with a fish then, if the fish is not too large, it could go into the sump. This is not for treatment (if treatment cannot be done in the display aquarium then it cannot be done in the sump as the two are connected), but to give the fish some respite if it is being harassed excessively. Likewise, there is a place for any unwelcome hitchhiker that has arrived with live rock - for example, a mantis shrimp is not welcome in the main display aquarium but it could be transferred to the sump and become a point of interest.

Another practical advantage to the sump is that it can be the home for technical equipment that would otherwise be in the display aquarium. Heaters and a protein skimmer for example - the equipment is out of the display aquarium which benefits by the removal of unnatural items.

If the aquarist has room for a sump then it is very worthwhile adding one.

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Tags: Aquarium Filtration, Aquarium Maintenance, aquarium sump, Care, Equipment, marine-aquarium

One Thing You Are Definitely Going To Need Is An Aquarium!

Perhaps the easiest decision to make, the one after actually deciding to keep marines, is the purchase of an aquarium. Well, it’s the very first need, the one to keep all the seawater together in one place!

So how to go about it - seems simple enough. Just go to the shop and get an aquarium that fits the space that has been designated for it.

Before the aquarist begins considering an aquarium purchase, it is necessary to have done some research into different marine systems (for example, fish only and reef tank) and come to a decision on which one is desired. Then a major consideration can take place, and that is running cost. It would be dreadful if the system had been set up over a period and the aquarist suddenly found him/herself faced with a frightening electricity bill.

When the system has been theoretically decided then the aquarist can list down some equipment requirements such as heaters and lighting. This is not wasting time as this knowledge will be required in due course anyway. There isn’t really a need to list all electrical equipment unless the aquarist wishes a near accurate calculation, just take into account the heating and lighting needs of the size of aquarium desired. Heating - and lighting on a reef aquarium if metal halide - are the big users of electricity. This is in a temperate area of course, in warmer areas a chiller could take the place of heaters and this is also quite hungry for electricity.

The calculation is simple - take the combined heater and lighting wattage (W) and divide it by 1000 (1000 is the normally used kilowatt which most electricity bills are based on). The result, probably a fraction, is the amount of electricity used in an hour. This is with the lights and heaters on all the time and of course they won’t be. So divide the answer by two. This will assume the heaters to be on half the time and also the lights. This again is not accurate, but for the purposes of this exercise is adequate as it is probably over estimated. However, remember there will be other equipment using electricity as well, though not as heavy in usage. For a day, multiply the answer by 24. For a week, multiply the last answer by 7 and so on. The cost is the number of kilowatts used including any fraction multiplied by the cost per kilowatt charged by the electricity supplier.

With this knowledge the aquarist will be either satisfied that the size of aquarium is economically acceptable or realize that it is too expensive. If the first, that’s great. If the second, all is not lost.

Downsize the aquarium is the obvious move, and this will reduce the heating and lighting requirements. If metal halides are to be used, then reducing the depth of the aquarium will mean that less powerful bulbs should be adequate, or that fluorescents could be used.

If metal halide lighting is a must because of what is to be kept (for example SPS corals) then running cost can be reduced by using a modern LED lighting system. These are now available as full arrays or as LED strip lights which look similar to fluorescents in physical size. These LED’s use much less electricity and the bulbs last far longer than fluorescents or metal halides. There are other advantages. Unfortunately, they are more expensive to purchase so though the ongoing running cost is considerably reduced the initial set-up cost is increased. Another lighting option is to use fluorescent T5 tubes and these are far less expensive than LED’s to purchase and cost less to run than metal halide bulbs. Again care must be taken as the depth of the aquarium matters, light will not penetrate as far as with metal halides.

It is really worth while checking the general running cost of a marine system before anything else, particularly in these days of increasing energy costs. Quite a few newcomers and more experienced aquarists have been unpleasantly surprised when the first electricity bill for the new or upgraded system arrives. Checking first avoids any nasty surprise.

Once the general running cost is checked and found to be acceptable then the aquarium size is known. Now an aquarium can be chosen.

Will it be acrylic or glass? I prefer glass as it doesn’t scratch so easily. Will it have a sump? Will it be in a cabinet? There is another question as well and that is what shape will it be?

Nowadays aquariums can be obtained in all sorts of sizes and shapes. There are the standard rectangular ones, square and round ones and those that fit into a corner as they are triangular. So if the space for the aquarium is ‘different’ there will be something suitable. Some aquarists even have ‘L’ shaped units to go around a corner though these are usually custom built on site. When choosing a shape, remember to consider the lights that are required - will they fit? Also will the intended lights have enough penetrating power for the depth of the aquarium, unless the livestock don’t require it?

Starting out with the design of a new system is exciting. Obtaining the aquarium is a first step and an easy one. Checking the guideline running cost is well worth while to avoid later unwelcome surprises or even shock. Cutting back on a newly set-up system is not going to enhance the aquarist’s enjoyment one bit.

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Tags: aquarium, Equipment, fish-tank, marine-aquarium, reef-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium

Mixing Saltwater

Saltwater is going to be mixed many times from the very creation of the aquarium way into the future. It is my opinion that a lot of people make this into something which takes more time than it actually needs to be.

All you need to do is spend a bit more time when performing the first water change to make it a lot easier in the future.

Both John and myself recommend the use of reverse osmosis water be this purchased from the local fish shop or created in the aquarists own home therefore when purchasing the salt mix it is imperative that one be purchased which has been specifically manufactured to be used with reverse osmosis water.

The net gallonage of the aquarium should be known from when the aquarium was initially filled with water therefore it is relatively simple to work out how much water will need to be removed from the aquarium for a 10% water change to be performed. In this example we will pretend that the net gallonage of the aquarium is 100 gallons therefore a 10% water change would be 10 gallons. This figure should be noted down for future use.

It should be remembered that fresh newly created reverse osmosis water should be used and it should be heated up to the same temperature of the display aquarium prior to adding any salt.

Having purchased the sea salt it is fairly straight forward to ‘guess’ the amount required to meet the intended specific gravity of the aquarium by looking at the suggestions/recommendations of the manufacturer.

When measuring it is recommended that you actually measure slightly less than you believe you require. Once you have measured the salt do not add it to the water weigh it first and make a note of the reading.

Add the salt to the water and give it a really good stir using a device such as a clean wooden spoon to initially mix it in. Add either an air pump or a small powerhead and leave it alone for 8-12 hours. This will allow the salt to fully mix into the water.

After this time measure the specific gravity with a hydrometer or other measuring device such as a refractometer.

At this point you will have one of three scenarios:

1. The specific gravity reading is to low. Measure out a little more salt and make a note of the weight. Add this salt to the mixing device and allow more time for the salt to mix and then test the specific gravity again. If more salt is needed then proceed as before ensuring that any new salt measured it weighed and recorded. Once the specific gravity reading is correct then simply add all the salt weights together for future use and record this information.
2. The spcific gravity reading is to high. Add some more reverse osmosis water to the mix noting the amount added for future use. Give the water time to warm up and then test again. If the reading is still to high then add some more water and record how much was added. Once the reading is correct then add the amount of water together and record this information.
3. The specific gravity reading is correct.

Taking your time on your first water change will allow you to identify how much salt you need to add to the required amount of water. When new water changes are to be performed you can create the correct amount of reverse osmosis water and weigh out exactly the correct amount of salt required.

It needs to be noted that using this method although does save you considerable time when mixing saltwater does not mean that you should not test the specific gravity each time. It is recommended that you continue to test each and every time you create new salt water and always ensure that you keep your measuring device clean.

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, aquarium salt, Aquarium Water, Care, Water Quality, water-change

Activated Carbon And How To Use It

Activated carbon is that black granular stuff obtainable from the local pet fish store. The product should be marked as suitable for marine use. Having said that, it isn’t an absolute necessity in a marine aquarium. It could be of use or not.

The protein skimmer does a very similar job to activated carbon, which is it removes dissolved organic matter, though it may be that the substances removed differ. In addition activated carbon could be of use after disease treatment in an aquarium to remove any residue of the treatment. Activated carbon also has the same downside as a protein skimmer and that is trace elements are removed from the seawater. Unlike the protein skimmer which just needs regular cleaning, activated carbon has a relatively short life (dependant on seawater content) and should be regularly changed. Once its useful life has finished, and this is when the carbon has adsorbed all it can, it is of no further use and should be replaced with new media. The appearance of the carbon will not indicate the condition.

Activated carbon can be placed in a canister filter, a very effective placement as there is plenty of seawater flow. Some aquarists place it in a bag and put the bag in an area of high flow - this is generally acceptable but there is always a question about how much seawater is actually going through the media. Seawater will take the easier route if possible which means it could be going round the bag.

As already said the carbon could be useful but it is not essential (essential as is, in my view anyway, a protein skimmer). There is a very simple test that could be done to indicate one reason why carbon is needed. Place a small white plate or saucer against one of the aquarium end glasses on the inside, or tape a piece of white paper on the outside. Now view the white object through the end glass at the opposite end of the aquarium. Is there any hint of a yellow tinge? If there is, it is termed ‘gilvin’ and indicates that carbon could be used or, if in use, it should be renewed. If carbon is in use and there isn’t a yellow tinge this does not indicate that the carbon is in good condition. The carbon should be renewed say every three weeks if in permanent use, dependant on the bio-load in the aquarium and the aquarist’s experience of it. This white object test is not an absolute indicator of the need or not for carbon, it is merely an aid.

A better way of using carbon is to use it periodically, say use it for a week then don’t use it for a further one or two weeks. The amount of carbon required for the week is small, and this carbon should be disposed of when the week is over. This way any unwanted substances in the seawater should be removed or partially so, and the amount of desirable trace elements removed should be minimized.

There is another check for the use of carbon, and that is not to use it at all. A check as suggested with a white object can be made after a time and, if all is well and an efficient protein skimmer is in use, if routine seawater changes are completed, if the livestock are healthy and thriving, then there isn’t a need for activated carbon.

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, Care, Equipment, marine-aquarium, Water Quality

Fish + Food = Fun

Keeping a marine aquarium is great. It must be, there are enough people doing it. Reef or fish only, it is a tremendous hobby being educational as well. Having some of Mother Nature’s wonders in the home is an eye catcher for visitors and sometimes becomes consuming for aquarists.

There’s maintenance of course - cleaning the algae from the aquarium glass, topping up evaporated water, cleaning and checking filters and pumps and the rest. Some aquarists just enjoy it in the same way that some gardeners enjoy weeding. Some do it because it has to be done and find it reasonably enjoyable. I’m one of the latter - it has to be done but it isn’t the favourite part of the hobby.

The best part as far as I’m concerned is looking at the aquarium. I know, it sounds just like ‘I love work; I can sit and look at it all day.’ It’s not that. Looking at the aquarium is really what it’s all about. Admiring nature in the home and feeling pleased because it’s mine and I maintain it.

There’s another bit of maintenance that’s great fun too and runs a very close second, and that’s feeding the livestock.

It doesn’t take long for fish and shrimps to become used to a feeding routine. When the aquarist approaches the aquarium, often there they are at the front waiting. Food goes in and the fish tear around making sure they get their share or more if they can.

Some fish will come to the fingers and remove food. This is really getting personal and the aquarist is normally enthralled by it. Then there are the cleaner shrimps of course. They will take food from the hand and, like fish, come close to the surface for it. In addition the shrimps will walk around on the aquarist’s hand looking for food be it feeding time or not. It must be strange for them, a queer fish with weird fins appearing but hey-ho, the food is good.

There is a potential problem with this feeding interaction however it is done. It is such a feel-good situation that it is likely that a newcomer to the hobby will overfeed. Fish and shrimps will take as much as they can possibly get when they can get it. As in the wild, their instinct is to eat quickly as they do not know when the next meal will be. Fish can stuff themselves to absolute capacity, and some of the food will be excess and will pass through the gut undigested, or only partially so. This means pollution for the aquarium which is one thing that is not needed as it will impact on seawater quality. In addition, it is impossible to ensure that all the presented food ends up inside a fish or shrimp. Some will inevitably end up loose in the seawater and will become lodged among the rocks. There it will rot, although hopefully in a reef aquarium or even a fish only one where there is live rock, all the little tiny life forms that inhabit the rock structure will eat it.

Even with the caution in mind about overfeeding it is still great fun. The aquarist needs only to restrict the food quantity to that which is known to be sufficient and stop there. Fish and shrimps are persistent beggars and the aquarist may feel that their actions indicate that more food is needed and give some. Simply don’t.

Oh, yes, and when the feeding is over don’t forget to sit back and watch the aquarium. Enjoy!

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Tags: feeding-fish, fish-food, fish-tank, marine-aquarium, marine-fish, reef-fish

Mud Bed Aquarium Filtration

Mud bed filtration is similar to that of other sand based aquarium filtration systems, however the substrate is made of such a small grain size that it is very much like mud. A good filtration method to equate a mud bed to is the refugium.

In the refugium filtration method various types of macro algae are grown in the fine sand. The mud bed filtration system is effectively the same, however instead of sand mud is used instead. It is not just normal mud though, it is a mud which is full of various elements and minerals. These elements and minerals are slowly released from the mud into the water column.

A mud bed system is normally run in an aquarium or some other container located under the main display aquarium. Some aspect of mechanical filtration is required to remove any large particles from entering into the mud filtration area. This can be performed at the end of the overflow(s) by passing the water through very small chunks of live rock etc. After the water has been through the mechanical filtration it enters the mud filtration aquarium. The macro algae consume nutrients from the water and various elements are slowly released into the water from the mud bed. The water then normally passes through some type of grid or through another chamber full of small pieces of live rock the purpose of which is to prevent any of the macro algae from leaving the mud area and blocking the return pump. Once the water has passed into the pump area it is returned to the display aquarium.

In a mud based system the lights are normally left on for 24 hours a day. This allows the macro algae to photosynthesise and grow. It is only when macro algae grow that they consume nutrients from the water. It is best to use lighting which is designed for the growth of plant life. A couple of fluorescent tubes will suffice, ensure as said that they are for plant life and have a Kelvin rating of around 6000. Lights with this Kelvin rating have more colour in the yellow/red area which benefits the plants.

A normal rule of thumb for a mud based filtration system is to pass in the region of 10 times the total water volume per hour. This needs to be considered when designing the aquarium system as the total amount of water in the system will determine both the overflow size and the size of return pump required.

As with a refugium there may be a requirement to harvest the macro algae if it becomes too dense. Never pull the algae out by the roots - instead cut the plants back with an old pair of scissors or similar. Harvesting the algae will allow more light to penetrate into the areas where the algae grows. One point to remember is that you should not add this macro algae back into the aquarium as you may reintroduce the nutrients back into the water.

A mud based system combined with macro algae removes a lot of the nutrients (nitrate, phosphate etc) and dissolved organic compounds as well as replenishing trace elements.

A lot of aquarists who utilise a mud based system for filtration do not run a protein skimmer. It is not recommended to do so by these aquarists because of the amount of particulate matter which is extracted from the water by protein skimmers. When viewing a mud based system you can actually see the fine particulate matter in the water. The water is still clear, however it is full of fine matter which some life in the aquarium can use for energy.

Of course there are also aquarists who do choose to run a skimmer, however the majority of these run the skimmer part-time (i.e. throughout the night, turned on/off via the use of a timer). The majority of these aquarists decide to run a skimmer as they are very wary of turning it off. I have run a system using a mud based method combined with live rock for many years without problems. The only thing you need to ensure when you run a system like this is that detritus is removed from the main display aquarium regularly and that weekly water changes are performed. A lot of aquarists who do not run a skimmer on their mud based systems do not have a sand bed in the display aquarium due to the build up of detritus which can occur. Instead they go ‘bare bottom’ in the aquarium. The glass which is visible at the bottom of the aquarium quickly becomes covered in coralline algae as well as other types of life so looks more natural as time passes.

The aquarists who decide not to run a skimmer have reported a higher level of particulate matter visible in the aquarium water which the corals, and other filter feeders consume. Because of the amount of particulate matter in the water column you should see good polyp extension from your corals as well as hopefully having success in keeping some of the harder to keep corals. Obviously you cannot just expect to be able to keep these more difficult corals just because you are running a mud based system - you must still ensure that you have optimal water parameters and that the requirements for the livestock in question are met.

Implementing a mud based filtration system is fairly straightforward. It is best to have an aquarium which is split into three or four sections. This can be accomplished yourself using glass and baffles or you can have one made for you at your local fish shop.

The first area is where the live rock is placed and is where the water from the display aquarium, via the overflow(s), enters the filtration aquarium. The purpose of this section is to remove any large detritus from the water as well as break up any air bubbles. Using live rock in this area is a good idea rather than another type of media as it is a natural filtration medium and will actively help in filtering the water rather than hindering it as other types of media could do.

The second section is where the mud is placed as well as the macro algae (caulerpa etc). The mud is poured into this section and the macro algae planted within it. To give the macro algae a chance to put its roots down trap it gently under a piece of live rock. Once the macro algae takes hold the piece of live rock can be removed. It is advisable to add a few varieties of macro algae as some may not take root. Caulerpa is one species which does tend to do well and there are numerous varieties available. Because of the amount of water flow which can be created in the central chamber some people choose to create small containers 1 inch or so high and 1-2 inches apart in the bottom of the chamber. This prevents the mud from moving around and building up in a pile at one end of the chamber.

The third or fourth section is where the return pump is located and is protected from the second central section via a baffle of some type or even more chunks of live rock contained in a chamber. If you are running this mud aquarium as your sump then your heaters for example can also go in this area.

A couple of fluorescent tubes will suffice for the lighting above the mud section and should remain on for 24 hours per day. As said attempt to use tubes which are designed for plant life as this will help the macro algae grow.

Because of the mud releasing essential elements into the water the mud bed will eventually expire, therefore it is recommended that half of the mud bed is replaced about every two years however I would recommend that you rely upon the manufacturers recommendations in this area.

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Tags: Aquarium Filtration, Care, deep-sand-bed, Equipment, plenum, Water Quality

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