How Long Should You Leave Refugium Lights On For
February 28, 2009
Refugiums are becoming more and more popular nowadays as people are starting to realise the beneift that they can have upon the aquarium.
Refugiums, as the name states are a refuge for animals to live without fear of predation. It is also an area where macro algae can be grown to assist in the removal of nutrients from the water.
In a normal refugium macro algae is grown to assist in the removal of nitrate and phosphate. In the refugium may also be a scattering of sand, a deep sand bed or even a mud bed.
Macro algae normally will only remove nutrients when it is actively growing and for this to happen it requires a light source.
The best light source to use is lighting which is correct for the growth of plants – this is normally in the lower end of the kelvin scale.
In the display aquarium the lights are left on for between 8 and 12 hours however how long should the lights be left on above the refugium?
There are two answers to this question:
1. The lights are left on for a 24 hour period. With this method the algae is allowed to grow continuously and therefore remove more nutrients from the water column.
2. The lights are lit in what is termed reverse light cycle. What this means is that the lights above the refugium come on when the display aquarium lighting goes off and turn off when the display aquarium lighting comes on.
So what do I recommend and why?
Both options are valid options however I would recommend option 2.
The reason for this is that I like to follow nature. In nature the grass beds are not subject to lighting over a 24 hour period – the receive light when the sun is out!
I also believe that the algae needs a ‘rest’. It requires a lot of energy for the algae to grow and if it grows continuously then problems may occur. This is not something that has been scientifically proven but is something that I believe could happen. It also needs to be remembered that in the refugium other organisms also exist. There will be various types of organisms which, like most life would prefer a period of darkness. I read somewhere, unfortunately I cannot remember where, that in a refugium which was provided with darkness the population of organisms grew however if the lights were on continuously the population did not grow as fast.
There is another area which is important and both of the above methods provide this – pH stability. When the lights go out above the display aquarium there is normally a slight pH drop throughout the hours of darkness. If the refugium is lit throughout these hours of darkness then the pH drop may be countered. As with anything in this hobby stability is key and this is just another area where this stability can be maintained.
So in my opinion the refugium can be lit of a 24 hour period or it can be lit on a reverse cycle however if I was to choose then I would choose reverse cycle for the reasons listed above.
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Is There A ‘Best Size’ Aquarium To Start With
February 27, 2009
This is probably something which most beginners to this hobby ask themselves and it is a very valid question. A lot of people recommend that beginners start with the largest aquarium which they can both afford and fit into the designated area.
This is very good advice however it can also be confusing as well as off-putting. People sometimes look at the large aquariums as well as the required equipment, see the cost and then are put off.
The reason that a lot of people recommend a large aquarium to start with is due to the fact that it is easier to maintain water quality in an aquarium with more water volume. The way I explain this to people is in relation to a cup of coffee!
In a cup of coffee if you put a spoon full of sugar in there it will taste quite sweet however if the coffee was in a bucket then the coffee would not taste as sweet – if you could taste it at all.
The same is with an aquarium where nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate is the sugar.
So am I different or do I recommend the same.
Actually I am different – I recommend that people start with an aquarium size which is correct for them and their budget. If a new aquarists budget will not stretch to a 100 gallon aquarium then get a smaller one which is within budget. As long as it is known and understood that water quality is slightly harder to maintain in a smaller aquarium then why not get a smaller aquarium. It is better to get a smaller aquarium in my opinion than not get one at all.
If you are a beginner and do get a smaller aquarium then you will need to be vigilant with your feeding, your stocking levels, your water top ups as well as your water testing. As time progresses your self confidence and knowledge in the hobby will increase and this will make it easier.
Smaller aquariums in my opinion can actually be more interesting than the larger ones. In a small aquarium as you are not able to put as many corals, fish etc in as you can with the larger aquariums you can watch and study the aquarium inhabitants more closely. It also has the added benefit that the required equipment will not cost you as much.
As time progresses you may wish to invest in a larger aquarium or you may wish to downsize and go nano – or even pico however at the beginning, as said any aquarium is a ‘best size’ aquarium to start with as long as it is known that smaller aquariums require more careful management.
On a final note – when I say small aquarium I do not mean an aquarium which is very small – I would not recommend that any beginner start with an aquarium which has a water voluem which is less than 20 gallons.
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The Basic Kit For A Marine Aquarium Part One – Fish Only
February 26, 2009
Despite the number of modern books available and information on the internet confusion continues to arise with a newcomer. This confusion is sometimes caused by the book and/or the internet. Books could be out of date as far as equipment is concerned, and an internet forum could cause confusion by the different opinions expressed.
Another area of confusion and often ‘overspend’ is the LFS (local fish shop). Some are very good and will ascertain the level of experience of the aquarist, and what he/she is aiming for. However, there are those that don’t and these are the ones that cause trouble. The LFS, good or poor as far as the beginner is concerned, is there to make money. If they don’t make money they won’t be there much longer. So the beginner is told they must have this, they must have that, this will be all right, that should do. Unfortunately this all adds up to a fair amount of money and ‘should do’ actually is not good enough.
The Aquarium. (The glass or acrylic box it all goes in!)
First of all (having obtained the agreement of the wife/husband/partner – let’s play safe) a check of available space should be made. The position of the aquarium must be close to an electrical outlet and the outlet must be accessible when the aquarium is in position, it can be just to one side or just behind (but not in the middle). Also and important, check the strength of the floor to ensure it is strong enough. Concrete floors are fine and so are most suspended floors, but nevertheless check. An aquarium full of seawater and rocks is very heavy.
Once the available space is known then this is not necessarily the size of the aquarium that will be obtained. It is necessary to consider the overall cost and future running costs before making the commitment.
The Lights. (So the fish can see and be seen.)
On a fish only aquarium there aren’t any special requirements for lighting, but some care and forethought is nevertheless required. Two fluorescent tubes are normally sufficient and they should run the full length of the aquarium or as near as possible and be fitted with reflectors. One marine white tube and one blue (actinic) tube will enhance the colours of the fish. In addition these two tubes allow for a more natural ‘lights on and off’ sequence, by having the blue come on first followed ½ hour later by the white creates ‘dawn’, and in reverse creates ‘dusk’. This requires two electric timers.
The type of tubes doesn’t really matter, though T5 tubes which are driven by electronic ballasts are recommended.
The bio-filter. (The bacteria factory providing life support.)
The bio-filter (biological filter) is absolutely essential. If one is not present, or is inadequate, the livestock will suffer or die.
There are two ways of providing bio-filtration (there are more than two but two will be looked at). These are first live rock and second canister filters. It is necessary to roughly know the total gallonage of the aquarium. The gallonage is easily calculated by using the formula Length x Breadth x Height, the answer divided by 231 equals US gallons. Allow for a 1″ airspace at the top of the aquarium and 2″ at the bottom for a decorative sand bed.
Live rock is a natural product which is bought ‘cured’ from an LFS. ‘Cured’ means that any potential die-off of organisms has occurred and the rock is ready for introduction to the aquarium. The rock contains bacteria that deal with the production of toxic substances in the seawater; this process is called The Nitrogen Cycle. The usual quote for the amount of live rock is 2½ lbs per gallon. This guideline suffers from the fact that different live rock has different weights, so the supplier should advise the necessary amount required of the type being sold.
The live rock also acts as a natural décor for the aquarium interior.
A canister filter is a man-made device where seawater moves through a cylinder filled with bio-media. In and on the media are the bacteria. The seawater flow is powered by an electric motor. These devices are fully capable of maintaining a bio-filter. A check should be made that the device is capable of dealing with the gallonage of the aquarium; the manufacturer’s information should provide this.
Of the two bio-filtration methods live rock is the one recommended. This is because a product of the Nitrogen Cycle is nitrate. Within reason, live rock should deal with nitrate. The Nitrogen Cycle with a canister filter stops when nitrate is produced. This does not mean canister filters should not be used as nitrate can be controlled easily enough.
If a canister filter is to be used then the aquarist will need to purchase decorative rock for the aquarium aquascaping. This will not be live rock of course but dead inert rock. ‘Inert’ means that the rock is known to be totally safe in seawater; nothing will leach out that is detrimental. There isn’t a control on the amount used; it is up to the aquarist to create the aquascape desired. However, consideration of the fish is needed as they need swimming space, some more than others.
Powerheads. (These provide seawater movement.)
Seawater movement in an aquarium is required so that oxygen can be replenished and the general environment remains healthy. Though there are several ways to provide adequate seawater movement, powerheads are much used and fully acceptable. Here we deal with basic narrow outlet types, though there are also wide outlet types available. Narrow outlet types are perfectly adequate for a fish only system.
Usually at least two powerheads are used as this permits chaotic and random seawater flow to be created. One powerhead could go in one corner of the aquarium at the back, and the other powerhead in the other. The outlets, which generate linear flow, are directed at more or less the same place on the front glass. This means that the two flows interfere with one another and many swirls and multi-directional flows are created. It is usually necessary to experiment a little with the best positions for the powerheads to obtain the required effect, but it isn’t difficult.
The guideline for seawater movement is that the net gallonage should move 10 times per hour. So if two powerheads are being used each should be capable of moving half the gallonage 10 times per hour. For example, if the gallonage is 50, then the total required movement per hour is 500, so each powerhead needs to move 250 gallons. Note that this is a guideline not a rule – it is not critical.
Decorative Sand Bed. (It looks good.)
There isn’t a need for a decorative sand bed. It hasn’t a function except to make the aquarium look more natural, and cover up the bare glass bottom.
If a decorative sand bed is incorporated, then there are things to consider. First, it should be constructed of coarse coral sand, as this will not move around too much in the seawater currents and dirt will not penetrate too deeply too quickly. Second, rocks whether the live or inert variety should not rest on the sand. This should avoid rock falls and sand compression. So the rocks are first in then the sand. Last, the sand should be 1″ to 2″ deep. This depth will assist with cleaning by stirring when it becomes necessary to keep the bed looking at its best.
The Protein Skimmer. (Not last and not least.)
After the bio-filter the protein skimmer is, perhaps arguably, the most necessary device. The protein skimmer is a great aid to the maintenance of high quality seawater. In an aquarium organic substances are produced which are generally termed Dissolved Organic Matter (DOM). This is mainly undesirable.
The protein skimmer removes much of this DOM. All types of skimmer work on the same basis: seawater flows through a chamber where very high numbers of tiny air bubbles are present. The DOM is attracted to the air/water interface and ‘adheres’ to the bubbles. The bubbles rise and fall into a collection cup and periodically the collection cup is emptied.
Most skimmers used nowadays are electrically driven and use a ‘venturi’ device to draw air in. There are two types, stand alone and hang-on. With the basic aquarium set-up, where a sump (an additional tank under the display aquarium) is not used, the hang-on type is most useful.
Manufacturer’s are perhaps more accurate in their claims for the performance of their products nowadays, but nevertheless the following guideline applies: obtain a skimmer that is stated to be capable of handling around twice the gallonage of the aquarium. It is unlikely that a skimmer will be obtained that is stated to handle the aquarium gallonage exactly, so at least choose the skimmer higher up the scale, not one lower down.
The skimmer is said to be the number one ‘poor buy’. This means that many aquarists setting up a system try to economise on this item, only to discover the inadequacy of the device and their mistake later, resulting in another purchase and unnecessary expense.
Heaters. (Have to keep the fish cosy!)
The fish that will be kept are the colourful reef types, so the seawater needs to be kept warm, between 75 and 80 deg F. Many aquarists choose 77 deg F.
The method of keeping the seawater warm is to use a device called a heater/stat. This is like a long fairly thin tube, the more powerful the heater the longer the tube. The heater is turned on and off by the ‘stat (thermostat).
It is best to have two heaters. Though they are quite reliable nowadays, failure is not unknown and it is often the ‘stat that is the trouble. It either sticks in the ‘on’ or ‘off’ position, usually the ‘on’. This means that the heater continues to apply heat even when the seawater is at or above the required temperature. If there was one heater it would heat the seawater excessively too quickly with dangerous consequences for the fish. With two heater/stats this can be avoided to a considerable extent as each heater/stat is rated at half the power required. Therefore a safeguard is provided.
The guideline for selecting the heating requirement of the aquarium is: if the aquarium is in a heated room allow 2 watts per gallon of seawater. If the aquarium is in an unheated room allow 4 watts per gallon.
So, with 50 gallons of seawater and using two heater/stats, in a heated room the power requirement in watts (W) of each heater/stat will be 50 watts. In an unheated room the heater/stats would be rated at 100 watts apiece.
Seawater Test Kits. (Seawater quality is so important.)
In order to keep a high quality marine environment it is very necessary to routinely test the seawater, in addition to doing routine seawater changes. The test kits needed are easily available, not excessively expensive and easy to use.
The first requirement is a hydrometer. This is usually a one-time buy as it is re-usable. The hydrometer is a device that indicates the specific gravity (SG) of the seawater. In a fish only system the SG could be from 1.020 to 1.025. As there aren’t any corals present some aquarists keep the SG at 1.022 as it is thought there are some advantages for the fish at this level. However bear in mind that if there is a temptation to keep shrimps or the like (and the fish won’t eat them!) it’s best to keep the SG at 1.024 or 1.025.
Next are the tests that look for undesirables in the seawater. The three of interest are ammonia (a deadly toxin), nitrite (a toxin nearly as deadly), and nitrate (which is nowhere near as bad but at high levels undesirable). These all carry out a finite number of tests and a new kit will then be required.
Finally, a test for pH is needed. Seawater is alkaline and the pH test checks this. The pH reading should be between 8.0 and 8.4, and should also be stable. Again, the kit has a finite number of tests and a replacement will be required.
Dry Sea Salt. (Well, it is a marine aquarium!)
There are many different makes of dry sea salt available and this is a choice for the aquarist. The most salt will of course be used in the initial mix. Following that, routine seawater changes should be done weekly, and at least to start, 10% of the total gallonage should be changed.
A Reverse Osmosis Filter. (Makes good water.)
Though this is not a necessity for the basic aquarium, it is recommended. This is because much tap water contains undesirables.
When tap water runs through a reverse osmosis (RO) filter, the usable fresh water that emerges is 95 to 98% pure. Any contaminants have been removed. It can then be used with confidence with the dry sea salt.
The Cost. (Not the most exciting consideration.)
There are two costs to consider.
First, now that everything has been listed, that is, the aquarium and the necessary equipment, check prices at the LFS and on the internet. Note down those selected then add them up. The answer is the indicative cost of setting up the system.
Now list the electrical items. Find out the wattage (W) of each and write it down (the information should be on the packaging, the device, or the manufacturer’s information). Now add up the list of watts. This is the indicative total power requirement of the system.
However, not everything will be on all the time, lights and heaters being an example. An allowance is made for these. To calculate the ongoing electrical cost, use the article on this site called ‘A New Saltwater Aquarium – It’s Exciting But Check Running Costs’. The calculation is straightforward. Alternatively, use an online calculator; these are available on several marine forum sites.
If everything is acceptable, fine. If not, perhaps downsizing the aquarium would produce a positive outcome.
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Having A Break For A Couple Of Days
February 25, 2009
Well I’m going to be signing off for a couple of days.
I have been having a bit of a rough time of late – as with many companies around the world the company I work for is having to slightly downsize due to the global economy, An announcement was recently made to this effect and to be honest it is very worrying. I have survived two previous redundancies in the business and I am fortunate to have also survived the third as has my team who work for me. Unfortunately other teams have not been so lucky and various people have been and are being made redundant.
Redundancy is a threat no matter what environment you work in and has never previously been something that I have worried about. I have always been of the belief that if something ever did happen I would be able to locate another position very quickly. However at the moment with a lot of companies downsizing and other unfortunately having to go out of business this might prove trickier than it would previously.
I believe that I could get another position quite quickly however at the moment I live about 5 minutes from work which is great as I get to see a lot of the family. I could potentially get another position quite quickly however I would either have to travel or live away during the working week. Of course this is something that I would do as I see myself as the providor for my family and will do anything I can to keep them happy – even if that means living away during the week.
Anyway it has really got me down recently. I worry about myself – my team members look up to me to provide them with support, guidance etc and I just need to get away for a couple of days.
So that is what I am doing – I am going away with the family for a couple of days – we are just going to relax, have fun and enjoy being away together.
So I will speak to you all again when I return – hopefully in a happier mood!
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Do Aquaculture Tanks Have To Be Anything Special
February 24, 2009
Personally I think that there is a belief that aquaculture aquariums need to be some type of specialist aquarium which is designed purely for aquaculture.
I don’t why I believe this and perhaps I am wrong but when I talk to people they believe that aquaculture is a scientific subject and therefore requires scientific equipment. I suppose that in a way they are correct as this entire hobby is scientific in a way – afterall we are interested in water chemistry etc.
So does aquaculture require specialist equipment.
Not at all. All you need is a container to place the corals etc, filtration, the relevant equipment etc. An aquaculture container can be a small cut down version of a display aquarium. There are many people who are performing aquaculture in food quality containers.
If you wanted to aquaculture corals for example and wanted a dedicated environment for it all you would need is a container, the shallower the better which can hold salt water, lighting, a protein skimmer, water movement devices, heaters and some type of filtration – the best probably being a deep sand bed. A rack could be created out of plexiglass, egg-crate or something similar and you are done.
It does not look fancy and in truth it isn’t but we should not be that interested in what it looks like – we are trying to successfully aquaculture corals.
Of course there is science involved as mentioned above as the water quality will need to be maintained at optimum parameters, the lighting needs to be the correct kelvin etc but this science is what makes part of this hobby fun.
Perhaps it is the name which makes people believe that they will need to spend a lot of money on specialist equipment – aquaculture – I suppose it does sound scientfic but the truth is that you can do it in any old container as long as it is food grade.
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Should You Use An Automatic Fish Feeder
February 23, 2009
It is best to feed the fish in the aquarium every day, even better is to feed them more than once every day as they then get food sparingly throughout the day however what do you do when you are away from home.
In my opinion it is best to have someone come around to the house to look after the aquarium whilst you are away. If someone else looks after your aquarium whilst you are away then they can top up the water, look for and react to any potential issues etc, however, this it is not always faesible or possible.
In these circumstances you can always install an auto top-up device if your aquarium will require water replacing due to evaporation whilst you are away. You can install an auto shut off device in the sump to protect the equipment in the sump if anything happens.
But what about the fish?
The fish are going to need to be fed. There will be food in the aquarium which the fish can eat – dependent upon the fish however this may not sustain them so it is better to provide some way to faciliate the provision of food.
This can be accomplished in a number of ways.
The first one is to prepare some food before you leave and then use something like a perastaltic pump on a timer to provide food throughout the day. The trouble with this option is that the food will not last for long before going off.
The second option is to use an automatic fish feeder. These devices are normally battery powered and have little compartments which the dry food is located. On the device is a timer which you can program to feed the fish throughout the day/week. Basically when the timer reaches a time which is feeding time the compartment opens and the food falls into the aquarium. They are very simple devices and very simple to use – you place some food, normally flake food into the compartments, set the timer and you are good to go.
The main trouble with some of these devices is that the dry food in the compartments becomes damp and then when the compartment opens at feeding time the food does not fall out as it is stuck to the sides. Some devices have in-built air blowers which attempt to keep the food dry however I have found that in a reef tank with higher water movement they still do not completely prevent the food from becoming damp therefore not all the food will be dispensed however some of it will and some food is better than no food at all.
So are they worth it?
In my opinion automatic fish feeders are worth it if you are not able to get anyone to look after your aquarium whilst you are away – afterall some food is better than no food at all.
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Got Anything Salty That’s Of Interest?
February 22, 2009
There are marine aquarists and ex-marine aquarists out there who have had all sorts of experiences with this hobby, good, funny or bad. There’s little that aquarists like better than learning of other aquarist’s experiences.
Why not let everyone know of yours? Experienced or beginner, it doesn’t matter. It could be simply how you feed your fish, how much seawater you change, your frustrations with a noisy skimmer (I’ve had one of those!). Or it could be a sequence of events. Maybe you haven’t started yet and are worried about doing so – let us know the worries. The range of experiences and subjects that this hobby could cover is immense.
It really doesn’t matter that you’re not a professional writer. Or that you are. It doesn’t matter if you aren’t that good at spelling. It doesn’t matter how long or how short the text is.
What matters is that we want it, we’ll be interested and so will many others.
Peter will check to ensure that the text is marine aquarium related, this is for security purposes. Anything that is undesirable, such as swearing and other objectionable material, could be blocked. However, you’ll tell you’re tale after that check just as you intended.
So don’t be nervous. Don’t be worried about how you’re writing style ‘stands up’. Who cares, it doesn’t matter. Just tell your tale, we’re all interested.
If you haven’t your own website it doesn’t matter. If you have, we’ll provide a link-back. Everyone will have themselves acknowledged as the author.
It’s easy and it’s fun. Just go to the home page, click on the banner ‘Guest Post On Aquarists On Line’, fill in the small amount of information required and either upload from an existing file or write direct. Then click submit. Easy and straightforward!
An easier way is to go straight to the submission form which can be located here:
http://www.aquaristsonline.com/guest-post-on-aquarists-online/
Alternatively you can simply email the article into us.
Selected blogs could even be put into our articles section – but we’ll always ask your permission first.
So come on, have a go!
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