‘Big’ To The Marine Aquarist

Most marine aquarists keep mixed reef aquariums, some of them are very small ‘nano’ systems and others could be six footers, large in the hobby world. There are a few who own aquariums even larger. Other aquarists have fish only systems that could be the same in size range to the captive reefs.

Mention ‘big’ and the reef aquarist thinks of a system larger than the one he/she already has, a huge affair maybe that looks like part of the Pacific Ocean has been transported for the aquarist’s personal use. Or perhaps thoughts turn to a more usually dimensioned system but still larger than the one already owned. I suppose its human nature to think this way.

There’s another meaning to ‘big’ though and this time it doesn’t refer to the aquarium size but to the livestock in the aquarium, specifically big fish. There are those who find keeping large fish fascinating and it is a side of the hobby that is often overlooked, as said most aquarists think of mixed reefs and small fish only systems.

Keeping big fish is a discipline in itself. Considering the diversity of size on the wild reef there is a fair choice, though it could be the larger fish are not so plentiful in local fish shops as demand is not so high. We’re not talking of the very large reef fish but those that are considerably larger than those usually kept in a reef or even a fish only aquarium.

Keeping large fish requires careful thought – there will not be as many for a start. There could be one or perhaps two or three. The stocking guidelines apply, it should be particularly remembered that the net seawater gallonage dictates the fish size/numbers that can be accommodated. So any rockwork that supplies a home for fish will reduce the gallonage. A sump will increase seawater gallonage (and quality) but should not be included in the stocking calculations as to do so could lead to too high stocking and subsequent aggression. The size of aquarium is obviously very important and a very large one, or the largest practically useful, should be obtained so that accommodation will not be excessively restricted. The guideline for the aquarium size is that its length should be four times that of the biggest fully grown fish and the depth and width at least twice the length of the biggest fish. The guidelines on aquarium placement also apply.

When considering the size of aquarium it is best to research the fish that are desired first. Fish grow and need more space, so knowing their eventual likely size will either cause a search for more suitable fish because the needed aquarium is too large, or confirm the intended size is adequate. The fish in the shop could be small, but to what size will it grow? Some grow quickly!

Lighting is not the consideration it is with a reef system. What is required is sufficient light for the fish to see and be seen. This is easily met by two aquarium length fluorescent tubes. They can be selected to enhance the fish colours; two that are usually good for this are ‘marine white’ and ‘actinic blue’. In addition, it is good to have a ‘dawn’ and ‘dusk’ sequence which is achieved with electric timers. One timer turns the blue tube on and off say one half hour before the white tube comes on and the same period after the white tube goes off. Flooding an aquarium with sudden light or plunging it into sudden darkness is not good management.

During the research of the fish temperament should be carefully considered. The fish could well be an interesting and beautiful one, but also very aggressive and/or a predator. Suitable tank mates have obviously to be found for such a fish or trouble will not be long in coming. Fish that grow large could be purchased at a considerably lesser size, but it is still incorrect to house the fish with fish that have a full grown smaller size. Fish in good conditions could and hopefully will have a long life – but not if there is a growing aggressive fish or predator in the aquarium.

Research should also cover the suggested captive diet of the fish, so the aquarist knows that he/she can cope with the demand – is it available locally and is it able to be stored in the home ready for use?

Big fish eat big and the filtration system has to cope with it. The filtration is that operated by the bacteria of course (the bio-filtration) which must be able to handle and convert the generated waste. In addition big fish are generally messy and mechanical filtration is usually required, the canister filter is probably the best choice. The canister filter should be large enough to cope with the amount of seawater present and one a little oversized will not go amiss. Some aquarists use two canister filters of appropriate size, one for purely mechanical filtration and one for bio-filtration. The bio-filtration unit will also have mechanical filtration to protect the bio area. With both filters, particularly the bio one, it is important to regularly clean the mechanical media and replace it if it is suspect.

Regular maintenance applies to the big fish aquarium as it does to any other. There is a need for regular seawater changes. The commencing guideline is 10% of the net system volume per week but the aquarist should adjust this if seawater quality is below that required. Cleanliness of the aquarium needs watching and seawater siphoned out on a routine change gives the opportunity to remove detritus – big fish as mentioned could be ‘messy’.

The words ‘seawater quality’ bring up an important piece of equipment that most certainly should not be missing on a big fish aquarium, and that is the protein skimmer. A model should be selected that is fully capable of dealing with the net system seawater volume, including any sump. An old guideline suggested that when purchasing a protein skimmer it should be capable of dealing with twice the seawater volume present, and if there is any doubt it is a good guideline to follow.

Again dealing with seawater quality there are five test kits that are required, ammonia (there should never be any reading present*), nitrite (there should never be any reading present*), and nitrate (which is best kept as low as possible but as a guideline should not rise above 30ppm, better 20ppm. Nitrate levels are usually kept in check by routine seawater changes). *Ammonia and nitrite will make an appearance in any maturation period required with a bio-filter.

Nitrate and the fact that big fish are big eaters have already been mentioned. If the aquarist finds that nitrate is rising despite reasonably sized routine seawater changes, then another piece of equipment could be considered and this is the denitrator. Basically the denitrator is a home for bacteria. The environment is maintained at a very low oxygen level and the bacteria require oxygen, therefore to obtain it they extract it from the nitrate which breaks this down. There are mainly two types, both commercially available. One is based on sulphur and requires no attention except to ensure that the slow flow of seawater through it is maintained. The other type requires feeding with supplied nutrients. Personally I prefer the sulphur type but it is a matter of personal choice. It could well be that a denitrator is not required.

It was stated in a previous paragraph that five test kits are needed and three have been mentioned. The other two are first a pH test. This is to check the alkalinity of the seawater. The guideline range is 8.1 to 8.4. Whichever it is, it should be stable. Routine seawater changes should assist with this. The final test is not really a kit as such, it is an instrument named a hydrometer. This checks the specific gravity (SG) of the seawater; the guideline suggests a range of 1.022 to 1.026. With a fish only aquarium it would be unusual for the top end of the SG range to be used. Using an SG of 1.022 is reported to be beneficial to fish as it is more detrimental to the well being of certain parasites. The SG chosen should be stable.

All the tests should be completed once a week; they are straightforward and not particularly time consuming.

Keeping big fish means the aquarist will not have so many to look at. However, it follows that there is more of each fish to see! In addition, it could be argued that the visual impact of the fish is greater. Many have beautiful colours. It is known that some of these bigger fish become real pets with individuality and personality and aquarists and their families become very attached to them.

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Aquarists And The Declining Reefs

There is little argument nowadays over whether or not there is any decline in the health of wild coral reefs. The discussion now seems to be more about the speed of decline. Some reefs remain relatively fine, but others are getting into a sorry state.

Scientists tell us about the acidification, or reduction in pH, of the seas and oceans caused by carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. They also advise of the slow increase in temperature. Both of these, in the long term at least, are going to cause trouble we are advised.

Imported into the US and Europe are huge numbers of marine fish and invertebrates destined for the marine hobby. They are distributed all over these areas for purchase by hobbyists. Does the import of this reef life accelerate the decline in the reefs? I cannot completely answer that question as I don’t have sufficient facts – but at a considered guess I would say ‘no’.

First of all what of collection from the reefs? Huge strides have been made over the last decade in the correction of unwanted collection practices. Once collectors realized that their future jobs were at stake and subject to there being something to collect, they listened. Though there are still problems that have not been cleared in some areas, collection of fish for example is by net and not cyanide. Holding facilities are much improved. Distribution methods – packaging mainly – has been much improved.

In addition to better collection methods, in the reef areas something is being done about the removal of corals. Collectors are now, though not in all areas, propagating them. They are sometimes laid out on vast undersea trays like seedlings in a gardening nursery. As they mature, they are sold on. Each one that matures is one less taken from the reef.

When the packaged livestock reaches its destination, usually wholesale shops and then retail ones, it is handled in a better way. Though there are some distributors and shops that are poor in their handling practices, most are fine. The packages are opened in dimmed or red light and the livestock permitted time to adjust. This is good, and after all it is in the wholesalers and retailers interest to operate good practices and protect the stock which represents their livelihood.

What of aquarists? Are we guilty of anything? There are those in the hobby who should not be called aquarists. They are a minority fortunately. These are the ones who find a fish dead and go and get another without thought as to why or how it died. Just replace it, doesn’t matter! Of course it does matter, whether it is a coral, a fish or whatever. Fortunately the majority of aquarists can rightly call themselves that. From keen novice to very advanced they care for the livestock properly and maintain a high quality environment for them. Is that enough though?

The first thing is that this hobby is for enjoyment, there isn’t any arguing with that, and there’s nothing wrong with it either. The majority of aquarists maintain their aquariums properly – perhaps I could even say respect their aquariums – and enjoy the hobby immensely. Looking at a good marine aquarium it isn’t difficult to see where the enjoyment comes from. The first requirement to protect the wild reef is to care for captive livestock well. Then more will not be needed to replace it, unless the fish or whatever has reached the end of its allotted time.

Many aquarists, once they have gained experience in successful aquarium husbandry, decide to have a go at propagating easy corals, or easy to start with anyway. This decision may be caused simply because a coral or more have become too large and need reducing in size. The parts removed can be grown into new corals and once the aquarist has taken the plunge it is surprising how easy it actually is. The common name for propagation in the hobby is ‘fragging’. This practice can only be good, as the produced new corals can be taken to the LFS or given to an aquarist friend. This means that the demand for corals has reduced by that much, little as it may be.

Other aquarists go into propagation in a bigger way, by having a shallow dedicated tank for the task. This has a higher impact of course and at the same time could be helping to meet the running cost of the aquarist’s aquarium.

Commercial propagation is becoming more known and with far more facilities this has a big impact on imports and thus the wild reef.

It is not only corals that are being propagated by aquarists and commercial interests, fish are also being bred. It wasn’t that long ago that it was thought that breeding marine fish would be nearly impossible. The belief was based on the simple fact that the fish come from a reef situated in the immensity of the sea or ocean. However, more and more fish are appearing that have never seen a wild reef.

There is another plus with this propagation and breeding. This is that the fish and corals that have only ever had an aquarium for a home appear tougher – more resilient – than their wild counterparts.

As expertise within the hobby and commercially increases, so will the availability of livestock from these sources. At the same time the demand on the wild reefs will reduce. There will always be a demand on the wild reefs as it is quite probable that not all livestock is amenable to commercial and home production. In addition, as more and more propagation and breeding occurs there will effectively be a ‘bank’ for the livestock involved, as the knowledge of ‘how to’ once gained will not be lost.

The advance in knowledge by home aquarists sometimes surprises scientists, and many scientists do not dismiss aquarists as ‘amateur fiddlers’ any more. For example there are many scientists – those qualified in the scientific discipline of marine study – who regularly write for hobby magazines. Another example is taken from the book ‘Aquarium Corals’ by Eric H. Borneman. It is the foreword, written by Dr. J. E. N. Veron, who writes… ‘Just as comets are now being discovered by amateur star-watches rather than by professional astronomers, aquarists are now moving into an area of knowledge that was once the exclusive domain of marine biologists’. Of course this doesn’t apply to all of us but nevertheless demonstrates that aquarists are being noticed, and quite rightly so. Aquarists have hands on experience of salt water life.

No-one is going to try and state that all is right within the hobby and the commercial marine world. It isn’t, there are idiots. The majority however are not, they are careful in the choice of livestock and in its maintenance.

I have a positive view of the position of the hobby in relation to the wild reef. We aquarists are not causing Mother Nature much trouble; we are, albeit indirectly, assisting her. As time passes, this assistance will increase. Livestock imports from the wild reefs need to be sensible and at the same time causes of destructive pollution tackled. The wild reefs are truly wondrous natural areas and deserve our respect.

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What Salinity Should I Keep My Marine Aquarium At?

Marine aquarists use a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity (SG) of the seawater. The hobby hydrometer is not a pure scientific instrument but is capable of sufficient accuracy to enable stability of the SG – provided the aquarist does at least a weekly check.

Marine aquariums come in two main types, fish only and reef. To be precise, for ‘reef’ I should really say mixed reef and corals only reef, the former being corals and fish (the usual).

The first consideration is what SG is really necessary. To answer that it would seem best to look at the wild reefs, our livestock’s natural home. The SG of the sea in those locations should give the answer. Well, yes it should, but it doesn’t seem as simple as that. Is it ever!

The sea is considered to be stable which for the volume taken up is not really surprising. The SG on the reefs though is perhaps surprising, as it can range from 1.017 to 1.031*. Specific gravity is affected by temperature and some variance in temperature is understandable. In addition, some seas are more ‘land-locked’ than others such as the Red Sea. So there is going to be variance.

Some state that it is best to mimic nature and I sympathize with that. However, mimic which reading?

Looking at averages could be the answer. The lowest encountered salinities (on reefs measured) had an average of 1.025, and the highest 1.026*. Now this is more like it.

Provided livestock are acclimatized properly there is tolerance to some change which over a period becomes the normal. Generally, fish are like this and will happily live in seawater with an SG from 1.022 to 1.026. (Some aquarists use lower SG levels for specific purposes.) There seems little point in having a higher SG than necessary so many fish only systems run at SG 1.022. There is some evidence that certain parasites don’t do so well at 1.022 so that is a bonus. Also, and very much secondary, not so much dry salt will be required for routine seawater changes which will reduce costs a little.

What of the reef system? Whether this is corals only or mixed, the corals dictate the SG requirement. Corals are much less tolerant of a lower SG and 1.024 is the minimum for them. The range usually cited for corals is 1.024 to 1.026.

Whatever the seawater SG is, it should be stable. Testing at least once weekly is required and unlike many other types there will not be a need to renew a test kit from time to time. The hydrometer, barring accidents, is a once only purchase.

SG is a very important parameter of seawater and one that is very easily controlled. The SG could reduce because of salt ‘creep’, where salt encrusts overhead wiring, lights, glass and the like. The SG could increase because of poor seawater top-up management, as only fresh water evaporates leaving the salt behind. High quality seawater is the often quoted number one necessity and simple monitoring is required.

(*Reference: Aquarium Corals. Eric H. Borneham)

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Detecting Pollution With A Robot Fish

British scientists from the University of Essex have developed a robot fish which has the capability to be able to detect pollution in water.

Each of these fish has an associated cost of £20,000 and a shoal of five of them are shortly to be released into the Bay of Biscay.

Each fish is around 2 foot long and has various inbuilt sensors to be able to detect various types of chemicals in the water. They run on battery which has between 5 to 8 hours of battery life and due to built in artificial intelligence do not require to be controlled remotely. Instead they are able to swim around using their own navigational abilities whilst avoiding objects.

The robot fish took three years to develop and although robotic fish have been investigated for over 10 years the developers claim that this one is the smartest yet.

The developers also say that this is not a new design but a design which has been created by hundreds of millions of years of evolution and they hope that if this project is a success they can be used around the world to prevent the spread of pollution.

Moving forwards into the future they hope to increase the robots intelligence and implement features such an recharging stations where the fish will go and recharge itself when it starts to run low on battery.

Some of these robotic fish have been placed into aquariums with live fish at the London Aquarium and some visitors have not been able to tell that it is a robotic fish. A competition is being run by the London Aquarium for child visitors will be able to name the new aquarium inhabitants.

Who knows perhaps in the future these type of fish could be used on and around the coral reefs and provide data back to scientists to identify and reduce pollution threats.

Actually here’s another idea – how about a smaller one for aquarists to use to monitor the internal water parameters of the aquarium?

Below is a video of the fish in action – it is eerily natural, especially when it turns.

Source – BBC News

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Cell Phones For Soldiers

Our friends over at the Marine Depot Blog submitted a post about this yesterday and we were so impressed with their committment to such an important cause  that we thought we would try to help increase exposure about what they are doing.

Marine Depot describes ‘Cell Phones For Soldiers’ as follows :

Cell Phones for Soldiers was founded by Norwell, MA teenagers Robbie and Brittany Bergquist with $21 of their own money. Since then, the registered 501c3 non-profit organization has raised almost $1 million in donations and distributed more than 500,000 prepaid calling cards to soldiers serving overseas.

What Marine Depot are doing is very commendable and I raise my hat to them for doing this. With the first 4,000 purchases made during the month of April they are including a pre-paid envelope with the shipped package which you can then put one of your old phones in which, when posted will be sent to a company who give Cell Phones For Soldiers money for each phone – enough money to provide about an hour to talk time to soldiers who are based abroad.

The phones are either then reconditioned or recycled.

If I was a soldier abroad I know that I would appreciate being able to phone my loved ones at home – wouldn’t you?

So if you have an old phone lying around somewhere or want to contribute to this worthy cause then why not pop over to Marine Depot, make your next purchase there and when you receive your package there will be a pre-paid envelope in their for you to send you old phone back.

Even if you don’t need anything for your aquarium at the moment then why not just go to Marine Depot and purchase some fish food, test kits, media etc just so that you can get the envelope.

In my opinion it is a very worthwhile cause and the more people who contribute the better.

Check out the post on the Marine Depot Blog

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What Are Moonlights For An Aquarium?

For a marine fish only aquarium lighting is simple, the fish need to be able to see and be seen. For a reef system the lighting is more complicated, as not only do the fish need to see and be seen the corals will normally have zooxanthallae within their flesh and this single celled algae needs to flourish so that the coral does too.

There’s a form of lighting that presents not a single headache and that is moonlight.

In the wild as everywhere else there is day and night, plus the transitional periods dawn and dusk. At night there is often moonlight which is missing from most aquariums.

Having moonlight is not essential. Corals are not going to suffer from the lack of it. Having mentioned corals and moonlight, isn’t it fascinating the mass spawning of corals on a reef, all of them triggered more or less at once.

Moonlight is optional. For those well-heeled aquarists with LED (light emitting diode) arrays it is possible that it is built in and ‘on’ times can be programmed. For most of us it is an extra purchase.

When all the lighting is off except for moonlights the effect on the captive reef is lovely. Weak shafts of light descend onto the corals, flickering across them. It can make the night period quite beautiful and draw the aquarist to have a look at a time when usually he/she wouldn’t.

Moonlights are a small array of blue LED lights. Usually they are supplied in a small unit, with perhaps five or less LED’s. There are larger units. Sometimes they are powered by a plug-in transformer style electricity supply. Their demand for electricity is very low, so very little will be added to the electricity bill.

As said, putting moonlights onto an aquarium is optional as there isn’t a technical requirement. Very advanced aquarists could well experiment with them to see if corals could be induced to spawn though this would be difficult and time consuming. Most of us would use them purely for the lovely effect, and expand the period when the aquarium acts like a magnet.

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What’s In Marine Aquariums – The Beginners Guide

We have had a few people contact us asking what is in our new book and who it is beneficial for. We have replied to them but I thought it might be beneficial if we listed this information on Aquarists Online as well.

Basically the book is available in both physical printed format as well as in downloadable digital format. The latter is where you download it and read it directly on your computer screen.

The book has been split into several sections as we believe that the important research should be performed prior to even purchasing a single thing. This research is covered in the introduction as well as parts 1 and 2.

The introduction section details such things as what the marine aquarium hooby actually is, the differences between saltwater and freshwater as well as detailing what marine reef systems and fish only system are.

Part 1 is based around the equipment either required or a possible extra. Various types of equipment are discussed and details what the equipment is, how it works and what it is used for.

Part 2 covers one of the most important research areas in our opinion and this is the area of filtration. Filtration itself is discussed in detail so that the reader understands how the filtration in an aquarium work and then various filtration techniques are discussed so that the reader can implement the filtration method which is most suitable to them or their aquarium.

At the end of these 3 sections the reader is now in a position to start purchasing items based upon the decisions they have made from these sections.

Part 3 covers the process of physicall setting up the aquarium, install and preparing the relevant equipment, water, filtration and then methods to start the nitrogen cycle as well as detailing what needs to be done to ensure that the aquarium is ready to support life.

At the end of this part the aquarium should be ready for the introduction of life so we move on to the introduction of life into the aquarium.

Part 4 details the stocking of the aquarium and covers areas such as how to select livestock, quarantine techniques, acclimitisation techniques, risks and methods of purchasing livestock on the internet as well as feeding techniques.

Part 5 is where we cover the area that aquarists fear – disease. In this section we covers aspects such as symptoms, prevention, treatment, injuries etc.

Part 6 covers the required element of ongoing care and maintenance. This is where we detail what to look after, how to look after it, when things need to be performed and prepares the aquarists for the future where if the required care and maintenance is performed and both patience and diligence are employed that a successful aquarium may be theirs to enjoy.

Part 7 is where we close the book down and cover some closing elements such as safety and running costs.

Both John and I are very pleased with the book and feel that it will be of benefit to numerous people however it is aimed at people who are considering starting the marine aquarium hobby or have just started and are looking for more information.

We have attempted to write this book so that anyone will understand it. There are some areas of this book which are classed as advanced techniques however we have spent considerable time writing these areas so that they are understandable and do not confuse the reader.

As said both John and I are very pleased with this book and hope that many aquarists from around the globe will find it beneficial and end up having successful aquariums.

There are some people who will feel that it include information which is only suitable for beginners but that is why it is called ‘Marine Aquariums – The Beginners Guide’

Further information about our new book can be found at http://www.salt-water-aquarium.com

Below is the table of content from the book which details the contents more in depth.

Table of Contents

Foreword And Acknowledgements
This Wonderful Hobby
Introduction
Chapter 1 – The Saltwater Aquarium Hobby
Chapter 2 – What You Can Find In This Guide
Chapter 3 – The Differences Between Saltwater And Freshwater
Chapter 4 – What Is A Fish Only Aquarium
Chapter 5 – What Is A Marine Reef System
Chapter 6 – Considerations
Part 1 – What Everything Does
Chapter 7 – The Aquarium
Chapter 8 – The Sump
Chapter 9 – Substrate Selection
Chapter 10 – The Nitrogen Cycle
Chapter 11 – Protein Skimming
Chapter 12 – Ultra Violet Sterilisation
Chapter 13 – Water
Chapter 14 – Temperature
Chapter 15 – Lighting
Chapter 16 – Water Circulation
Chapter 17 – Water Parameters
Chapter 18 – Calcium Addition
Chapter 19 – Algae
Chapter 20 – Decor
Chapter 21 – Other Equipment
Chapter 22 – Here’s What You Need
Part 2 – Filtration
Chapter 23 – Mechanical Filtration
Chapter 24 – Biological Filtration
Chapter 25 – Chemical Filtration
Chapter 26 – Man Made Filtration
Chapter 27 – Natural Filtration
Chapter 28 – Usage Of Chemical Filtration
Chapter 29 – Filtration Techniques
Part 3 – Setting Up Your Aquarium
Chapter 30 – ‘Fail To Plan And You Plan To Fail’
Chapter 31 – Tank, Stand And Hood
Chapter 32 – Sump
Chapter 33 – Heater
Chapter 34 – Power Heads And Pumps
Chapter 35 – Lighting
Chapter 36 – Protein Skimmer
Chapter 37 – Nitrate Removal
Chapter 38 – Use Of Chemical Filtration
Chapter 39 – Water
Chapter 40 – Filtration
Chapter 41 – Power On
Chapter 42 – Starting The Nitrogen Cycle
Part 4 – Ready To Stock
Chapter 43 – Selecting Your Livestock
Chapter 44 – Quarantine
Chapter 45 – Acclimatisation Techniques
Chapter 46 – Purchasing Livestock Online
Chapter 47 – Feeding Techniques
Part 5 – Fish Diseases
Chapter 48 – Causes
Chapter 49 – Symptoms
Chapter 50 – Water Quality
Chapter 51 – Types Of Diseases
Chapter 52 – Injuries
Chapter 53 – Prevention
Part 6 – Taking Care Of Your Aquarium
Chapter 54 – Equipment
Chapter 55 – New Saltwater Mix
Chapter 56 – Doing The Job
Chapter 57 – Additional Information
Part 7 – Closing
Chapter 58 – Running Costs
Chapter 59 – Electrical Safety
Chapter 60 – Conclusion
Photography Credits
Index
About The Authors
John Cunningham
Peter Cunningham

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