A Question About Algae
May 31, 2009
Algae could be the aquarist’s friend and at the same time an enemy, it all depends on what type it is. A question arose recently about algae and my immediate reaction was ‘Oh no, not again, algae!’’ In fact it wasn’t so bad.
The question came from a beginner aquarist who openly admitted that she didn’t have much experience. In fact, she had done precisely four routine seawater changes with her new aquarium. The aquarium, a fish only, was not overstocked, if anything it was understocked. She was a little fed up; the excitement of actually seeing some life in the aquarium after all the patient waiting when the system was being put together was being spoilt by the dreaded algae. I was unable to see the aquarium.
Basically she had done seawater changes and after each one she advised ‘red’ algae had gone bananas. That’s what she said; I don’t think it could have been quite as bad as that!
Many aquarists have problems with various types of algae, particularly when inexperienced and when the aquarium is in its early days. I was surprised that it was red algae causing the trouble. Usually it is green hair algae, or so-called slime algae or smear algae (a thin sheet that slowly covers rocks, sand etc). Slime algae can be ‘reddish’, very dark and appear red nearly black. Another type is diatoms that are usually more golden brown in colour.
Red algae can be calcareous and branching or encrusting, or have flexible ‘leaves’. These algae types are often sort after by aquarists as they are decorative. In the red algae family there are over 4000 types. The algae though had been identified as a problem and not decorative so it cleared these types away. So the algae in question had to be a problem type, but what? Green hair algae was obviously not the answer.
When an aquarium is first started up diatoms often appear. They could cover rocks, sand etc. The diatoms rely on silicates in the seawater – if the silicates go so do the diatoms. If they appear then die back, the silicates are used up. If they then re-appear at a routine seawater change, then more silicates have been introduced. The fresh water source could be suspect. Dry sea salt does not usually cause this type of problem.
Smear or slime algae is a bigger problem. It can be quite difficult to erase but this can be achieved. The presence of smear algae suggests excess nutrients in the seawater, even in a new aquarium. Also smear algae does not like strong currents – it often tends to appear in quiet areas of the aquarium, though just to be helpful it can appear in more turbulent areas.
10% of the net system gallonage is the guideline amount for routine seawater changes, until the actual needs of a particular aquarium are known. The changes being done were of this amount.
Possibilities would have to be narrowed down, so the first suggestion was that seawater tests should be done, that is, nitrate and phosphate. A request was made to test both the seawater in the aquarium and the new seawater made up for a routine change. Ideally, in the aquarium nitrate should be as low as 10ppm (parts per million) or less particularly for a reef aquarium, a fish only could be higher but should still have nitrate minimized. Phosphate should not be detected at all hopefully, but at least the level should not be more than 0.03ppm. If it is higher, say 0.10ppm, it is too high. In newly made up seawater there shouldn’t really be any presence of nitrate or phosphate. Nitrate and phosphate are known problem algae nutrients, thus the need for control.
It turned out that nitrate and phosphate were present and ‘a little too high’, levels were not given. The seawater destined for the routine change was also tested – the same for nitrate. Now then!
So on to the next possibility. This follows the clues given – the algae become more apparent after a routine seawater change and nitrate was present in the new seawater. A check was suggested of the freshwater being used.
The information arrived that the nitrate level in the freshwater was ‘high’. Maybe this was tap water, the most likely, or it could be local spring or well water, I don’t know. Nor was the actual level given. However, ‘high’ in this instance meant ‘too much’ and this seemed to be the problem that needed to be dealt with.
Tap water is not necessarily as pure as might be thought. In agricultural areas there could be excessive nitrate levels. There could also be heavy metals, pesticides, phosphate, chlorine, chloramines and so on. The water is made safe for human consumption; there are regulations as to how much of what is permitted.
The suggestion was made that fresh water should no longer be used from that source, and that a reverse osmosis (RO) unit should be obtained. The RO unit is a membrane that only permits pure water to pass, or nearly so. The purity is usually about 95 to 98%. It is important to have a unit that incorporates a carbon filter at the front end; this protects the membrane as chlorine is removed. Chlorine could damage the membrane. A sediment filter is often incorporated before the membrane as well. RO units come in various ‘gallons per day’ sizes, one needs to be picked that is suitable for the size of the routine seawater change. RO units are very reliable and only require the carbon filter etc changing from time to time in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. They are not particularly expensive either.
It is worth using high quality fresh water obviously for the welfare of the livestock; also dry sea salt is not cheap. Dry sea salt manufacturers produce salt that is free of nitrate and phosphate – why spoil this with poor fresh water?
Much later on it was learned that an RO unit was in use and though nothing had happened for a while, in time the algae (‘slime’ I assume) started to reduce and the aquarium became clear of it.
This seems a good demonstration that the aquarium will reflect what it receives. Feed in algae nutrients and algae could appear. In this case all turned out well.
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Just Relax!
May 29, 2009
The marine hobby is very relaxing most of the time. There could be times when it is stressful for the aquarist, for instance when a fish is in trouble or there is some other serious problem. This stress could also occur when nuisance algae invade and the battle to get rid of it seems to never end. It does eventually end of course, with the aquarist the victor.
As said though, most of the time it is relaxing, a great antidote for those with stressful lives, getting up in the morning, breakfast, travel to work, trains full and/or late, or roads packed and vehicles moving at a snail’s pace. It is even relaxing for those who are already relaxed because they’re retired, for example, and have the time to do the things they actually want to do.
Maintaining the system is a chore sometimes, but for the most part is an enjoyable part of the hobby and also relaxing.
There is nothing more relaxing though than sitting down and just watching the aquarium, seeing healthy, colourful fish and corals in the captive environment the aquarist created.
On this occasion there isn’t any talk of the importance of seawater quality or lighting or anything else. This time let’s just watch.
The attached is a video of a fish only aquarium, with good music. It’s worth a little time. The video music ends quite abruptly, it would have been better to have gently faded out, but at least it’ll wake anyone dozing off!
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My Lovely Algae
May 28, 2009
Algae to an aquarist often mean trouble. It is one of the continuing ‘don’t wants’ of the aquarium. Hair algae, slime algae, yuk, no thanks! Then there’s the algae that’s purposely grown in a sump to aid filtration, usually Caulerpa.
The algae referred to here is none of the ‘horribles’, or Caulerpa, but the ‘reefy’ encrusting algae that is welcome, by me anyway.
At first when the aquarium started I used to keep all four side glasses clean. A considerable time later I noticed that encrusting algae had taken hold in a back corner. A closer look showed that it seemed decorative and welcome, so the algae’s impending doom with a scraper was averted. One end of the aquarium was not cleaned at all; it was left to its own devices. The glass turned green, the usual stuff, but despite twitching with the urge to clean it off, it was left alone. Over a few weeks it gradually turned dark.
I thought about this for a while, and then increased the alkalinity of the seawater from 2.5 meq/L to 4.0 meq/L. The reason for this action was that it had been anecdotally reported that bad algae grew poorly with higher alkalinity, but encrusting decorative algae does better. Having done this I monitored the corals carefully but nothing untoward occurred.
As time progressed the glass that had been left turned into dark, medium and light green patches. It also developed lots of tiny white pimples on it. It looked great.
Having obtained reassurance by this ‘experiment’, I left the back glass alone and just kept the front and one end glass clean. This was probably going to happen anyway as the corals were larger and getting to some areas of the glass had become difficult. The algae continued to develop and then covered the stated glass panels completely. The aquarium looks really great with this natural decoration in place. The original blue of the back glass can no longer be seen.
The alkalinity level has been maintained at 4.0 meq/L for years and the encrusting algae do seem to appreciate it.
I did note that algae over an area of about 2 square inches had come away from the glass and fallen down; it could be seen on a rock. The glass where it had been was clean. The fallen alga was quite thick, about 1/8 of an inch, so I assumed it had simply lost adhesion, glass is hard and smooth. Sure enough, the clean area was soon being taken over and is now once again covered.
Something else I have noted is that tiny shrimps, similar to the ones that scurry over the rocks and sand at night, take refuge behind some areas of the algae. Close inspection shows that the algae appears to be slightly loose in place – I wonder if the beasties have burrowed their way in or simply taken advantage.
Over time one or two additional patches of encrusting algae have come away and are growing back. Taking a photograph of the algae is difficult as corals tend to get in the way, however I did find one area that is reasonably open and used that. The patches on the left can be seen, in process of re-covering. Original algae can also be seen. Incidentally, the attached ‘leafy’ algae that can also be seen aren’t what I’m talking about, but are also very decorative. It is also very friendly in that if any does grow where it isn’t wanted the whole ‘leaf’ easily comes away for removal.
Algae can be the aquarist’s friend, adding a natural decorative background and increasing the overall attractiveness of the aquarium.
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Sump Or Refugium?
May 26, 2009
All aquarists know the difference between a reef, mixed reef and fish only aquarium. However, confusion arises on occasion about the sump and refugium.
There are many systems of whatever type that include a sump. Usually they are put there in the design stage and this is really the easiest option, as feeding seawater to and from the sump is more easily arranged.
The sump is defined by the Oxford dictionary as ‘…a pit for collecting water etc’. That’s fairly accurate I suppose in relation to marine systems, one of the attributes of a sump is that it increases the net seawater gallonage of the system which is good for quality. In addition to this it permits items of hardware such as protein skimmers and heaters to be placed out of sight, which is good for the main display.
This is where the confusion starts. In addition to equipment, a sump could also be used for a deep sand bed (DSB) and could also grow macro algae. Then an addition could be made by using a partition and installing a ‘refugium’. The aquarist declares that he has a refugium.
I don’t want to be over-finicky, but is this correct? It is understandable certainly, as a refugium is a place where small life forms can live away from the predations of fish etc. Over and over it is said that small life forms are essential for the health of the DSB. There aren’t any fish in the sump so the small life forms are protected, so maybe it has become a refugium!
In the dictionary version I have ‘refugium’ is not given but no matter, let’s look at ‘refuge’. The definition of this is ‘…shelter from danger, pursuit or trouble.’ So the refugium is a specific not a general item.
Back to the sump then, as said it is primarily added to the system to increase net seawater gallonage and provide an area where heaters etc can go. If the aquarist wishes to add a DSB then fine and the same goes for macro algae. This makes the sump …a sump. It has been added for specific purposes, not one particular purpose.
A refugium is an additional aquarium or container that has been added to the system in the same way as a sump. However, in this case it is intended primarily as a refugium, nothing else. A fish only aquarium is an environment for fish, a mixed reef an environment for fish and corals. The refugium is an environment designed for small life forms. It keeps them safe from predation by fish and permits them to develop and flourish. At the same time, of course, it also increases the net seawater gallonage of the system.
So if the system is to include a sump and a refugium, there should be three aquariums. The largest one will be the display aquarium of whatever type, and attached to this and fed seawater by it will be a sump and a refugium. The major advantage of the two, apart from increased seawater gallonage, is space. There is more space for equipment in the sump if it is not being used for so many purposes, and there is more space in the refugium for the creation of the special environment.
Overall though, it could be argued that the above is a terrific example of nit picking! Truth of the matter is, the sump doesn’t have strict boundaries and could be and often is used for a DSB and macro algae, with lots of tiny life forms. These life forms are protected from fish predation so it is a refuge. The specific refugium is different because it is only that, a refuge, nothing else. The refugium, as it is for one purpose only, may well offer greater space for the created environment, which in turn permits more life to develop, which could mean a higher amount of live food (that which finds its way into the main display aquarium).
I would love to have a three tank system but haven’t the space. Those who have the space, great! Those aquarists who use a sump only, no problem, let’s not argue about a name.
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The Pulse Coral
May 25, 2009
The pulse coral belongs to the soft corals and is well known. It is often seen in local fish shops and though often at a higher price than many other soft corals, is not out of the reach of most aquarists.
These corals are attractive in general, but the main attraction is the pulsing of the polyps, they rhythmically open and close. There has been considerable argument over why this should be, and the most obvious answer held sway for quite a long time. This answer was that by pulsing the coral drew suspended food particles to it so that they could be captured. Watching the coral’s action this seems reasonable. However, the latest thinking that I am aware of is that the pulsing is to obtain more oxygen, in other words a breathing movement, more seawater is passed across the polyps thus more oxygen becomes available. Some aquarists automatically dismiss this as it is compared to the similarity of human breathing. Several authorities support the ‘breathing’ reason. I am not able to state the scientifically proven correct answer. Perhaps there will be scientific enquiry into the coral and facts will emerge. If they already have I’d be pleased to know.
Anyway, the attractive coral is upgraded to fascinating by the pulsing of the polyps. Sometimes in an aquarium the polyps cease to pulse, or only pulse weakly. Again, at least to me a definitive answer as to why this should be is not known. There has been argument, some saying that in an aquarium iodine is likely to be lacking and this causes it. However, some have measured for iodine and found it present at a correct level yet there isn’t any pulsing. Others have suggested that the aquarium may have saturation levels of oxygen and there isn’t a need for pulsing. The latter one could have some merit if the coral’s reason for pulsing is related to oxygen. (The respiration reason for pulsing is cited in some respected books.) Another reason suggested is that there is excessive nitrate in the seawater. If the polyps reduce their pulsing action nitrate is easily checked for, but unfortunately there doesn’t seem to have been any feedback from aquarists on this point (to my knowledge). Again perhaps science will come to our aid one day. The good thing is that even if the pulsing does reduce or cease, the coral does not seem to decline and remains attractive.
Pulse coral is the major common name, Xenia elongata or Xenia umbellata the proper ones (two separate types). There are other pulsing corals. They are suitable of course for a reef aquarium. The coral has a thick ‘trunk’ which leads to many ‘branches’, which in turn split off and lead to many polyps. The coral attaches to rock. It is important that the coral receives sufficient light as the flesh contains zooxanthellae which supply the majority of the coral’s food requirements. Ensure the light reaching the coral is direct and bright. Seawater movement should be moderate. Excessive seawater movement will have a detrimental effect.
The pulse corals are not difficult to keep and do well in an aquarium, provided of course that seawater quality is high and lighting is adequate. Placement seems to be one key to success (as with many other types), this could be a little problematic as placing the coral higher up the reef should provide sufficient light but perhaps too much seawater movement. When placed, watch the coral, does it expand properly and does the expanded coral look comfortable, that is not banging about in the current? It is easy to see when things are fine.
Having a pulse coral in the aquarium certainly adds to interest to state the least. If the pulsing action reduces or ceases, first be sure there isn’t excessive seawater movement. Then check for nitrate, if the level has increased reduce it by increasing the amount of routine seawater changes, at least temporarily. Investigate the reason for the nitrate increase and correct it. (The guideline for nitrate in a reef aquarium is 10ppm or less.) As a final check, all else having proved not to be the reason, check the seawater oxygen level, perhaps the seawater is carrying the maximum? Overall though, this coral should give little trouble.
The link below will give further information and photographs, just scroll down the page, lower down is a picture of a coral in action.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-02/ac/feature/index.php
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The Dwarf Lionfish
May 24, 2009
Lionfish are known to marine aquarists for two main reasons these being their predatory nature and their finnage which is unusual.
There are several lionfish types, probably the most well known one being the common lionfish, Pterois volitans, which is also the one usually most available. This fish can grow to around 12 inches.
The dwarf lionfish is named because of its comparative size, it could grow to around 7 inches. This fish can also usually be obtained without too much trouble. Though the adult size is around 7 inches, the fish is often for sale when much smaller. The link shows some photographs of the fish, some of these demonstrate how the colouration is reasonably effective as camouflage.
http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Dendrochirus+brachypterus&x=58&y=9
Though there seem to always be occasional exceptions, the dwarf lionfish, proper name Dendrochirus brachypterus, is not for a reef aquarium. For a start it is a predator and will eat the smaller fish that are often kept, further it is likely to eat or damage some invertebrates.
In a fish only aquarium the dwarf lionfish should be kept with fish larger than itself because, as said, it will eat smaller ones and even ones more or less its own size – selecting the fish to go in a fish only community needs particular care because, again as said, the ones for sale are often small. Clearly they are going to grow and as they grow the fish population is going to reduce. Even at the initial small size they could eat other small fish. The predatory tendency maybe could be kept at bay or reduced if the fish is fed well, though this isn’t a guarantee.
Some aquarists keep the fish in a species aquarium as unlike tangs it does not require a large swimming space. This isn’t a bad idea as in addition to the community fish in the fish only aquarium being secure, the dwarf lionfish does not usually object to other same type fish being present. Obviously care has to be taken with stocking levels and also care with the fish themselves – one could maybe eat another if it was smaller.
A novice aquarist who wishes to gain some experience with a fish only aquarium could select the dwarf lionfish as a good addition, as the fish is hardy. The word ‘hardy’ does not mean that attention to seawater quality is not important, it is. The meaning is that the fish should withstand some common mistakes a novice could make, one prime example is overfeeding which will bring seawater quality down.
Mentioning the word feeding, this should be reasonably straightforward as the fish is predatory. It used to be said that small goldfish could be used as ‘feeder fish’ as they are inexpensive and last long enough in salt water to attract the attention of the lionfish. Nowadays this is not seen as ethical and is considered cruel. In addition, goldfish naturally live in freshwater, so is this food correct from a dietary point? The best way to feed the lionfish is to obtain frozen marine food such as lance fish, which is readily available. These are fairly small fish and the lionfish should be able to take them, if not they can easily be cut when frozen. Ensure of course that they are completely thawed (don’t thaw in a microwave as this reduces the nutritional value; thaw in some reverse osmosis water or seawater).
Feeding could present one problem and that is the food is of course dead, the lionfish is a predator and used to hunting live food so could ignore that provided. The answer to this is usually successful. Obtain some thin white cotton thread and fasten the food loosely to it. When the food is placed in the aquarium make sure it is in the vicinity of the fish and make it move about gently. Some patience could be required but eventually the hungry fish should take it. The cotton should come off easily. Peter once kept a lionfish in a species aquarium and it learned to take food in this way. In time, as soon as the food appeared at the surface it was taken without any delay. Having mentioned a potential problem with feeding it is possible that there could be no problem at all, it has been reported that the fish very occasionally will take anything meaty floating in the seawater, very small or not. Normal feeding of the lionfish is not required every day; every other day should be tried. The feeding frequency can be determined by observation, the fish should be reasonably eager.
The fish has spines that are venomous, just as much so as the larger lionfish. This needs to be remembered when hands are in the aquarium for maintenance. Also it is possible that a plastic bag could be punctured when the fish is being transported home, the dealer should ensure this is unlikely to cause problems by double or even triple bagging.
Once the dwarf lionfish is in the aquarium, having got there using the correct acclimatization technique, it should settle down quickly. The aquarist then has a fish that is unusual in finnage and different to observe. Though slow moving in comparison to others, it is a counter to the more usually kept fish. Perhaps the ideal is a species aquarium which sits underneath the larger display one?
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There’s Some Interesting Stuff Out There
May 23, 2009
There certainly is and as far as marine aquarists are concerned it ranges from photographs and videos about the wild reefs, information and discussion on aquarium equipment, to setting up and maintaining a marine aquarium. Amongst all of this is something that is dear to many of us, and that is DIY.
DIY (do it yourself) covers a very wide range of subjects. Within reason, just about anything to do with ordinary mortals has a DIY aspect. For example gardening, home making, photography, boat and aircraft building, home brewing etc. There’s a lot of it.
The marine hobby is also home to a considerable amount of DIY. The cost of equipment, or at any rate some of it, is enough to make those with normal wallets blink a little. ‘How does a plastic whatnot like that get a price tag of that size?’ is not an unknown query!
Aquarists are often good at DIY and aim at projects that measure up to their abilities. Provided the job is done properly with good advice available there is money to be saved, and the equipment works well.
The link is a website that is about DIY. There is quite a range available. Perhaps it could be of use?
The website has a great deal of information in addition to DIY. The list on the left hand side shows this and exploring the site is interesting and informative in many ways relevant to the hobby.
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