Sorry to hear about the algae problem.

If you have a constantly high phosphate level it could be reduced by using anti-phosphate media. This is easily available and needs to be contained in a suitable device, such as a small canister filter etc. The media has a limit to its capability so should be changed as necessary.

As you are doing seawater changes (as should be done) there is a need to look for the cause of the high phosphates. Phosphates are mainly introduced into the aquarium with food for the livestock. A high number of aquarists overfeed as they assume the livestock need more than they actually do. So I suggest you examine this aspect.

Also, to an extent, algae can create algae. When algae dies, all that it is and contains is released back into the seawater, so further nutrients are provided. If you are ‘killing’ algae ensure that it is removed as far as possible.

In addition, once a nitrate/phosphate problem has been solved it can be a while before they disappear completely, but the levels will fall away.

First thing, don’t fret!

The general temperature range for a marine aquarium that is usually given is 75 deg F to 84 deg F. It is best to run the aquarium cooler than the highest stated – I run mine at 77 deg F with a +/- 1 deg F variation.

It is important to have stability. Therefore it follows that a temperature should be selected that is within the range given, preferably not above 80 deg F, and can be maintained without excessive ups and downs.

Hopefully there will not be a need to purchase a chiller. In the summer when the air temperature affects my aquarium I run a fan. These are quite cheap to buy and cheap to run. The air flow can be directed across the top surface of the seawater which dissipates heat and also gets rid of lighting heat. I’m fortunate in that I simply blow air across the front of my aquarium and this is enough – the air flow makes the aquarium act like a radiator and thus lose heat.

Many new aquariums go through an initial ‘algae cycle’. This algae is often a gold brown colour and the algae utilises silicates. When the silcates are gone, the algae goes. A problem with algae does not need to occur. It is down mainly to seawater quality. I assume you have basic test kits such as ammonia, nitrite, pH, and nitrate. A worthwhile additional one is phosphate. Nitrate and phosphate are nuisance algae nuitrients, and preferably should read for nitrate 10ppm or less, or as low as possible, and phosphate 0.01ppm, or preferably zero.

Phosphate gets into the seawater through feeding, so it is very important not to overfeed livestock. Nitrate likewise, but it also appears because of livestock and is the result of the Nitrogen Cycle (the biological filtration process required in all aquariums). Live rock in high enough quality and quantity can deal within reason with nitrate. The main way of controlling it is by carrying out routine seawater changes, the guideline is 10% of the aquarium net gallonage per week.

There is a great deal on this website about such matters as mentioned above, see ‘Articles’ and also ‘Blogs’. You can also click on different categories by going to the Home Page and putting the mouse pointer over different headings.

One point if I may. You mention “a live rock”. Live rock is an excellent biological filtration media. However, there must be enough of it. This is an absolute. Before adding livestock at all (and adding livestock must be done slowly over a period) speak with your supplier about the necessary quantity of live rock you require.

I don’t have any livestock in it yet. Just the water and a live rock. I’ve been told to let the system get ‘stable’ for the next two weeks. My first challenge is temperature. I’ve noticed the tank is always hotter than than room temp. I live in Texas, and we have warm weather almost year round. Here in early october the high is 76F. today, with the lights on, my tank was running 85.4F.

The shop that sold me the tank said that anything above 80F will stress the fish out. Now, if i understand you correctly, i’m going to need to worry about algae too. OH NO!!!!

I could turn the A/C on, but i would really like to avoid that. I could also purchase a chiller, but i would rather turn the tank off and box it back up. I refuse to pay that kind of cash for equipment, that also has a huge energy cost associated with it.

Could you comment on temp ranges for most fish, and what temp ranges work best to avoid algae?