Why Should Alkalinity Be Higher In The Aquarium?
June 28, 2009
The marine aquarium can be so beautiful if the aquarist does straightforward routine maintenance as required, and doing this maintenance includes attention to the all important seawater quality.
Seawater quality is maintained by routine changes of sufficient quantity, and at the same time tests are completed to ensure that the required standards are met. These tests include specific gravity (SG), pH, nitrate and for a reef could include calcium and similar. Some aquarists continue to test for ammonia and nitrite after the initial maturing process. Alkalinity is a test that is useful to marine systems too.
It would seem fair to think that Mother Nature would know best in these matters and the alkalinity level in the wild is 7 to 9 KH*. So perhaps we should keep out aquarium seawater at the same level.
We could maintain a natural level and hopefully all things being equal there wouldn’t be any problems. However, we are not talking of the vastness of the seas and oceans where seawater quantity is measured in cubic miles; we are talking about aquariums where even a large home system of 500 gallons is, by comparison, very tiny.
Most aquariums are fully stocked whatever system they are. The life in the aquarium puts pressure on the seawater in several ways and one of them is the acid/alkalinity balance. We know this measure as it uses the pH scale, and we want a pH of between 8.0 and 8.4 which is on the alkaline side. The life functions in the aquarium constantly try to reduce this pH towards the acid side, something we do not want.
Prevention of the reduction in pH is achieved by the ‘buffering’ capacity of the seawater, in other words its ability to resist changes caused by acidic substances. The ‘buffer’ is mainly the carbonate/bicarbonate content of the seawater. In certain circumstances the buffer could be seriously weakened or even exhaust and the pH would fall which is detrimental to the livestock.
Dry seawater salt as purchased by most aquarists for seawater make-up has a buffering capacity usually around natural levels. However, many aquarists boost the buffering capacity of their seawater by adding carbonate/bicarbonate powders. These powders are usually mixed in some seawater before being added to the aquarium, being careful not to hit corals etc. The powders are sold commercially and are very easy to use.
In an aquarium it is considered best to maintain alkalinity from 8 to 14 KH.* It is not recommended to raise the level above 14 KH.* The recommended level of 8 to 14 KH does not mean the level can vary within these limits, it should be reasonably stable at the chosen point, ‘reasonably’ meaning that some variation over say a week will not usually be harmful. My system runs at 10 KH and needs boosting to an extent weekly.
If the aquarist measures the alkalinity of a fully stocked system on a weekly basis and keeps a note, then the trend of the aquarium can be seen. The amount of buffer that needs to be added is easily prepared week to week. Testing can be reduced once this requirement has been discovered but should not be abandoned.
If pH is a problem and it is falling despite routine seawater changes and good husbandry in feeding etc, then perhaps the buffer capacity needs attention. Increasing the buffer by 1 KH week to week will not do harm. I have found a good alkalinity level is also beneficial to the growth of welcome encrusting algae which can beautify the aquarium.
By the way, if the desire is to measure alkalinity by mg/l, then multiply KH by 17.9.
(*Reference: Marine Atlas. Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch)
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Do We Feed Our Fish Too Much?
June 9, 2009
After feeding my fish the other day I settled back to watch them feed and then observe them as they returned to their normal habits on their ‘reef’ after all the food had gone.
This is something that I like to do as I find it relaxing plus it also gives me the opportunity to be able to check the fish are all healthy and active.
One thing I noticed was that even though they had just been fed they continued to scour the reef looking for food.
This got me thinking - do we need to feed our fish the amount that we do?
Is there enough food in an established aquarium to be able to sustain the health of any fish which are kept in an enclosed environment?
I am not saying by any means that anyone should stop feeding their fish - far from it.
What I was thinking about that evening is something that has stuck in my mind. In an established aquarium there are all sorts of life which are too small for us to see however fish are able to see them (and if they can catch them they may eat them).
With the amount of life which is in an established aquarium is there enough variety and quantity to be able to sustain the fish?
Would aquarists need to supplement this food to provide variety or for health related matters?
Would it be better for the fish as they would be able to feed lightly throughout the day rather than having one or two ‘mass’ feedings a day?
Another thing I was thinking about that evening was the feeding itself and whether the way we normally feed fish due to busy lives changes the in-built habits of fish. The majority of fish have an inbuilt urge to look for fish and then eat as much as fast as they can as they do not know when they will next find food. With the hand of the aquarist feeding the fish on a daily basis is this urge removed or reduced?
Perhaps this is all just me thinking too much but as said it is something that just stuck in my mind.
Maybe a test could be performed - not by me I hasten to add but by someone who both has more courage as well as the ability to scientifically prove the outcome of the test.
Until a test such as this is performed I am going to continue feeding the way I have been and recommend that you do as well.
If anyone has any answers or thought to any of the above questions then I would love to hear them.
Note - It has been a long time since I posted on Aquarists Online and it has been very nice to see emails asking if everything was ok etc. The reason I have not been posting for a while is that I have a lot going on at the moment and there do not appear to be enough hours in the day to get everything done. John has done a fantastic job in my opinion getting posts out as often as he does however although he is retired he is also an exceptionally busy man. I am pleased to say that I am now getting back into posting regularly on Aquarists Online - I hope no-one minds!
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The Long One
June 7, 2009
Like the majority of aquarists I have a schedule for maintaining my aquarium. With the commitments I have and the time available I’ve found that this schedule saves time - usually.
Saving time doesn’t always occur, sometimes, and it is infrequent, something occurs which takes up a lot more time. Not today though, all went well mainly.
My schedule depends on a number. Number one is clean the glass. Wow, that’s it! Number two is the same as one plus the intake filters on some powerheads, plus a routine seawater change. Number three is the same as one. Number four is a comprehensive clean. Included with all of these numbers is a check for any unwanted organisms such as Aiptasia. So as can be seen maintenance covers a four week cycle.
Maintenance is nearly always done on a Sunday as there is time available, in the morning anyway. It all sounds a bit military maybe, but it works.
The number for today is four, the long one. New seawater ready and waiting, cleaning equipment near the aquarium. The aquarium is surrounded by carpet, so polythene covers are in place. They catch the drips and minor splashes very well.
The very first thing is to clean, with a hard toothbrush, my miniscule algae scrubber. This developed by itself and is obviously doing something as it exists! There must be some level of nutrients in the seawater feeding it. The photo shows it - I did say it is tiny, about 3 inches across and 2 inches deep! The seawater flow is from the hang-on skimmer.
Next the bracing struts and viewing glasses are cleaned with an algae magnet. Only the front and one end viewing glass are done, encrusting algae is permitted to grow on the others.
Exciting stuff this isn’t it! Now the four powerheads which sit in a small compartment are checked. The powerheads driving the under-reef spray bar and anti-phosphate filter have sponge intake filters and these need thorough attention. The anti-phosphate filter is shown in the photo; it is a homemade hang-on type. (Taking the photo was difficult, it is under an open stairway and space is restricted.) The other is an anti-nitrate filter, again homemade but this isn’t in use.
This maintenance is progressing well. The Eheim canister filter is next, the mechanical media has to be checked. This is comprised of fine and medium sponges and it can be surprising how much they catch from what appears to be clean seawater. I have to save numerous very small shrimps as well; these are placed in the display aquarium ensuring the fish don’t get them. There are numbers on the filters - this is from when they were both used for biological purposes so that they could be selected for cleaning, this doesn’t apply now as the biological media has been removed.
Getting there now and it is usually at this point that a cup of coffee appears. Thanks!
Siphoning is next on the agenda but before the main siphon tube is used, I attack any unwanted organisms. Today I located a few Aiptasia and these were dealt with. I’ll have to deal with more as time passes; they are never eliminated, probably because there are so many nooks and crannies in a reef aquarium. As long as they are not left to their own devices for too long they aren’t a problem.
So out come gallons of seawater with the siphon tube, this seawater will be dumped. (I used to use it for brine shrimp production but no longer do so.) At this time any debris spotted on the base of the aquarium is removed. There isn’t much base to be seen but it is checked anyway.
The new seawater is placed on the stairs above the aquarium and my wife kindly makes sure the tube doesn’t come out (not the siphon tube, one that is considerably longer). In goes the seawater.
Not quite done. I manually add certain additives to the seawater, these being calcium, bicarbonate and carbonate powder (for alkalinity) and iodine. Calcium is maintained at around 420ppm and alkalinity at around 4.0meq/L. I don’t measure the iodine level as it is only added once every two weeks at the minimum dose, there has never been a problem.
Nearly time to pack up now, just give the glass bracing struts a clean with a paper towel, likewise the viewing glasses. A check with the hydrometer is required, this is fine at 1024.
Final job - give the fluorescent tubes a wipe. Now it’s all done.
No, not quite. The two fish get some brine shrimp for being so patient!
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Supplementation
May 14, 2009
It is more likely that the reef aquarist will be involved in supplementation, though this is not exclusively so.
In order to achieve a successful marine aquarium of any type seawater quality is very important. Another way of putting it is that for the livestock to thrive the seawater has to meet their needs. Seawater parameters also need to be stable.
The question of salt can be squeezed in here - is this supplementation? Well, perhaps not in the strict sense but anyway… The general practice in the hobby is to measure salt by checking specific gravity (SG) with a hydrometer. The usual range is 1.022 to 1.025 for a fish only system, and 1.024 or 1.025 for a reef. SG has a habit of reducing over time and this is because of salt creep etc. The aquarist no doubt keeps the seawater level topped up with freshwater (preferably reverse osmosis) and checks the SG weekly. If the SG has reduced then it is a simple matter to increase the amount of dry salt that is added for the next routine seawater change.
Some aquarists supplement general minor trace elements. This is done because these trace elements, or some of them, are probably used by livestock and are also removed by protein skimming and activated carbon. Generally, a marine aquarium should not be without a protein skimmer and so this one negative has to be put up with. Similarly there could be a case for the use of activated carbon, though its continuous use is not usually necessary. Supplementing trace elements is a hit and miss affair, the aquarist usually goes by the instructions on the bottle relative to the net gallonage of the system. There doesn’t seem to be any harm done by this, though it generally contravenes the advice ‘Don’t add anything that can’t be tested for’. The aquarist should be aware of the condition of the seawater. A better way of dealing with general trace elements, in my opinion anyway, is to carry out routine seawater changes. The new seawater will contain trace elements and though those lost may not be totally replaced, they will be at least partially and this seems to be sufficient. I have relied on routine seawater changes in this way for years and heavily stocked coral reefs have not suffered.
What is the major supplement used? A fair guess would be calcium particularly with hard coral reefs, as these SPS coral types (SPS = small polyp stony) demand good calcium levels. The usual level maintained for a hard coral reef is from 420ppm (parts per million) to 450ppm, though some aquarists maintain levels as high as 480ppm. Soft coral reefs are fine as low as 400ppm though perhaps 420ppm is better. The aquarist, if testing is regularly done and a note of calcium presence is made, will be able to see the trend. The trend is down and over a period of time the loss can be seen. This enables the aquarist to supplement reasonably accurately. There are two major ways to supplement, the first being the commercially available bottle and the second automation. Which is chosen depends on the calcium demand and the size of the aquarium. In a soft coral aquarium for example, particularly if the aquarium is not large, a commercial application should suffice if routine seawater changes alone don’t. The supplement is added to the seawater in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and in a quantity relevant to the demand. The procedure is very straightforward. The second way is to automate the supplementation by using for example a calcium reactor. This makes the process continuous and probably more favourable as the ‘ups and downs’ in the calcium level are less. Some time has to be spent in very carefully adjusting the seawater drip rate and also ensuring that gas injection is correct. The other requirement is to ensure that the calcium rich media is still present in enough usable quantity.
Whether the calcium addition in manual or automated the need to test is not removed. If the aquarist can see a repetition of the calcium requirement because a notebook has been used to jot down test results over time, then testing can be reduced in frequency¸ but nevertheless still needs to be done.
Another measure that needs to be known particularly with a reef system is alkalinity. Alkalinity is the measure of how much bicarbonate and to a lesser extent carbonate is present in the seawater providing resistance to downward changes in pH. It is sometimes called carbonate hardness or buffer capacity. A complete description of alkalinity will not be gone into, but from the foregoing it can be seen that it is important, the pH of seawater needs to be stable and in the correct range. So the reef aquarist needs to test and note the reading. Again, the trend for alkalinity in an aquarium is downward. Routine seawater changes will assist in the maintenance of the alkalinity level, but supplementation is often also required. Natural seawater has an alkalinity level of around 2.5meq/L. (Don’t worry about the unit measure of alkalinity, test kits give tables and usually conversions to other measures. The unit meq/L is only being used for demonstration. The measure often used otherwise is dKH, and to obtain this simply multiply the meq/L figure by 2.8.) The seas and oceans have vast reserves but in the comparatively diminutive aquarium with a relatively higher bio load it is usual to maintain a higher alkalinity level of between 3 to 4.5meq/L, though 4.0meq/L seems a good measure. Again, if tests have been completed over time and a note made the trend of the aquarium can be seen, permitting the aquarist to know how much needs to be supplemented. Supplementation can be manual using additives that are commercially available, a very straightforward process. Another way is to use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), use about one teaspoonful per 25 gallons of seawater and add to the sump or another area away from corals (mix the powder in some seawater before adding it). If the aquarist uses a two part alkalinity/calcium additive or uses Kalkwasser there could be no need for further alkalinity supplementation. Tests will give the answer.
There are other supplements available, but there is more controversy over these. For example, iodine is said to be particularly beneficial to soft corals and of benefit to all types. Iodine is available commercially and should be added strictly according to the instructions. Only a small amount is needed as required iodine levels are very low. As far as I am aware there isn’t any scientific proof that iodine addition is of any great benefit to the reef livestock, though there are many aquarists who do add it and state that it is of use. With this state of affairs it would seem reasonable to add it, remembering that some will be gained from routine seawater changes. Iodine can be tested for.
Magnesium could be another addition used by the aquarist. Sometimes the dry salt mix itself falls short of the desired level though this is probably uncommon. A check of the level present in the aquarium seawater should be made and a decision based on that.
There are other little bottles that can sometimes be found in aquarium stores, such as molybdenum, bromide, fluoride and vanadium. Sometimes the bottle could contain more than one. Whether there is a real need for supplements of this type is a basis for argument. All I can say is there are many aquarists with lovely successful aquariums that have never used them. Also, routine seawater changes will replace necessary elements at least to an extent.
The main point that needs to be remembered is that ‘magic bottles’ do not bring success, the design and maintenance of the aquarium is the main foundation for this. Maintenance includes testing of the seawater and ensuring that any known necessary elements are present in amounts that are required by the livestock. Overdosing can be very detrimental, so the aquarist has to know the additive quantity actually required without guesswork, which means seawater testing. This testing can be reduced in time if the aquarist keeps a note of test results and aquarium trends can be seen, however testing still needs to be done.
Another point worth mentioning is that if any desired level is found to be markedly deficient supplementing to regain the correct level should not be done quickly. Stability is a requirement already mentioned, so if a larger change is required it should be done slowly in small steps.
‘High quality seawater’ is generally accepted as the number one requirement in any type of marine system. This high quality is sometimes simply interpreted as a lack of nitrates and phosphates which is correct up to a point. Particularly in a reef system, the presence of elements in sufficient amounts to meet the needs of livestock is also important.
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A Website To Help Keep Track Of Your Aquarium
April 23, 2009
There is a website which allows you to keep track of your aquarium online.
The website is called Reefiris and is currently in Alpha mode which basically means that there may be some bugs present and some features which are not yet complete. As the site is in Alpha mode the data entered may be deleted to allow for enhancement, bug fixes etc to be applied.
Once the website comes out of Alpha mode and enters beta stage it will probably be more stable.
To start tracking your aquarium you first need to sign up and then enter details about your aquarium. Once this is done you can start logging parameters, reminder notes etc. The good thing about it is that you get your very own web space where you can see all of your parameters over time in a graphical format (hourly, daily, weekly and monthly). Therefore you can spot trends starting to appear and hopefully react before it becomes an issue.
They also appear to have support for various controllers such as Aquatronica, AquaController etc so if you use one of these the data can be exported straight into Reefiris.
I think that this site has amazing potential and if done right could be an exceptionally useful tool for aquarists all over the world.
Why not go and check it out and remember to keep an eye on it as I’m sure it is going to improve.
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I Know About Seawater Quality, But…
April 21, 2009
Marine aquarists aim to maintain seawater which is of the highest quality. The reward for doing so is a vibrant aquarium, be it a fish only, corals only or mixed reef, and without the intrusion of nuisance algae.
‘Quality’ means the seawater is stable, the pH in the region 8.0 to 8.4, nitrates in a fish only at 30 ppm (parts per million) or less, in a reef system 10 ppm or less, and phosphate preferably undetectable. If the aquarium contains a captive reef the aquarist will quite likely maintain alkalinity, also calcium if this is relevant to the livestock. However, for the purposes of this discussion quality means stable pH and ‘proper’ nitrate and phosphate levels, that is, they are within the guidelines.
Aquarists complete routine seawater changes which go a long way towards maintaining high quality. Any undesirables in the seawater are diluted and, at the same time, trace elements are replenished or partially so. The seawater could be said to be freshened. The initial guideline amount for routine changes is 10% of the total net gallonage of the system weekly. This therefore includes any sump. There isn’t any requirement to change 10% every week; the aquarist could find it more convenient to change 20% fortnightly. However, a weekly change probably contributes to stability in itself, as the change caused by raw seawater being added is smaller.
pH as said could be anything between 8.0 and 8.4. Whichever the measurement is it should be reasonably stable. It is possible, in some circumstances probable, that there will be a fluctuation in pH between the lights on and off periods. This is normal as it has to do with seawater dissolved gas levels. If there is an excessive reduction, or any reduction which worries the aquarist, one way of combating the change is to employ algae in a sump. The macro algae Caulerpa is commonly used and is lit by fluorescent tubes which have an opposite cycle to the display aquarium lights, which means that when the display aquarium is lit the sump is not and vice versa. Plant growth tubes are often used to assist the Caulerpa, these tubes have a lower Kelvin rating than lights commonly used on a display aquarium. The Caulerpa will also act as a natural filter to combat nitrate and phosphate.
Sometimes pH is not varying excessively, it is just too low. If the reading is consistently too low, and by this it is meant below 8.0, then it is possible that the system does not have efficient enough gas exchange. Gas exchange occurs at air/seawater interfaces, particularly at the aquarium surface. It also occurs on protein skimmer outlets, weirs and the like. It is at these interfaces that the seawater takes in oxygen which is clearly important for livestock. Too low an oxygen level could have serious repercussions for the livestock under certain circumstances, and it could also be the cause of a low pH reading.
Testing the seawater for sufficient oxygen relevant to pH is very easy. Measure the pH of the seawater in the aquarium and make a note of the result. Siphon a gallon or two of seawater into a safe bucket, the one used for new seawater will do. Importantly maintain the temperature so it is the same as the aquarium and also circulate the seawater vigorously for two hours or so. The heater used for new seawater will be fine, also the powerhead or air pump. Note that the seawater needs to be moved vigorously, if it is sluggish it will not do.
After the required time measure the pH of the seawater in the bucket. If it is the same as the aquarium then seawater movement in the aquarium should be adequate. If the pH is higher than that in the aquarium then increasing seawater movement in the aquarium should be beneficial. Sometimes an additional powerhead will do. Place it about half way down in a convenient and hopefully hidden from view spot, and point the outlet at the surface or at an angle across it. Seawater will be moved either in a mound at the surface or a stronger flow will move across the surface. In either case gas exchange should increase affecting the pH. Before an additional powerhead is used it could be worthwhile checking the positions of existing devices.
If the pH is too low and the above test doesn’t make any difference, maybe the alkalinity is also too low. Keeping it brief and basic, seawater is on the alkaline side of the pH scale. Life actions of livestock continually try to push the pH towards the acidic side, particularly in heavily stocked fish only systems. Increasing the alkalinity could maintain pH at a more desirable level and is worth trying. If alkalinity is adjusted it is usual to keep it above natural seawater levels. If it is intended to try this, then there isn’t any mystery or need to explain measurements. Test kits and adjustment powders are commercially produced and easily obtained. The instructions will explain all and there will be a measurement chart included.
The aquarist could be having trouble with nitrate and/or phosphate. If routine seawater changes are properly done and excessive readings persist there are checks that should be initially considered.
First is feeding as this is the major culprit in many seawater quality problems particularly with novices. Nitrate is a product of the nitrogen cycle and is the end product with a canister filter. Even the acclaimed live rock cannot deal with some nitrate readings. Phosphate is mainly introduced to the seawater by feeding. Both nitrate and phosphate have been implicated in problems with nuisance algae, so excessive readings need to be reduced. There is information on feeding techniques in the Articles section on aquaristsonline.com, so further explanation will not be given here. The tendency to overfeed usually has two causes, the first being the pleasure of feeding and the second the concern that the livestock get enough. Both are good reasons, but the act of overfeeding will do harm. As said, the first action is to carefully check the method of feeding and the amount fed.
Nevertheless, some aquarists have trouble anyway, despite being disciplined when feeding and despite doing regular seawater changes. It has already been stated that the initial guideline for routine seawater changes is 10% of the total system net gallonage. Note the word ‘initial’. It may be that the amount changed needs to be increased. It could very well depend on the livestock load. A fully and correctly stocked mixed reef system will usually have a lower bio-load than an equivalent sized fully and correctly stocked fish only system. Fish present a heavier bio-load than corals. So for example in a fish only system there is heavier feeding because of the higher number of fish and of course the fishes life cycles continue. Thus there is more scope to see excessive nitrate and/or phosphate readings. The answer here is probably dilution. In other words an increase in the amount of seawater changed routinely. If the aquarist is changing 10% this could be increased to 15%. Have the readings begun to subside? The readings will gradually subside, as additional pollution continues to be produced - it will not suddenly or quickly disappear. If not, try a further increase to 20%. It is not normally recommended to change more than 25%.
It has to be reiterated that increases in the gallonage of routine seawater changes come after the aquarist is fully satisfied that other avenues to solve the problem are exhausted, such as the mentioned feeding. It is also important to examine carefully the filtration which in the first instance should be adequate. Filtration to combat nitrate and phosphate could be increased. In the case of nitrate more live rock for example, and/or if there is a sump the introduction of a DSB (deep sand bed) and perhaps some Caulerpa algae. In the case of phosphate perhaps an anti-phosphate resin filter could be considered.
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If Seawater Tests Are Fine But…
April 16, 2009
We are often going on about the quality of seawater and we believe quite rightly so. Seawater quality is the number one priority, no matter what type of aquarium it could be, fish only, coral only, or mixed reef.
Of course, even if seawater quality is correct there could still be problems. Fish need to receive the correct nutrition, and there needs to be a general lack of stress. There are more. However, as said, seawater quality is the number one and regular tests should be made.
Though it doesn’t affect a fish only aquarium anywhere near as much, lighting is number two on the list. This applies to a reef system whether corals only or mixed. This high priority for lighting is because of the needs of the corals. Within most corals are zooxanthallae, single celled algae which are essential to the corals’ wellbeing.
So there’s a problem with the corals? Seawater tests indicate nothing wrong? What could it be?
The link is to a text supplied by aquaristsonline.com which could be of interest in the above context.
http://www.thereeftank.com/blog/look-after-the-lighting/
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