The Long One
June 7, 2009
Like the majority of aquarists I have a schedule for maintaining my aquarium. With the commitments I have and the time available I’ve found that this schedule saves time - usually.
Saving time doesn’t always occur, sometimes, and it is infrequent, something occurs which takes up a lot more time. Not today though, all went well mainly.
My schedule depends on a number. Number one is clean the glass. Wow, that’s it! Number two is the same as one plus the intake filters on some powerheads, plus a routine seawater change. Number three is the same as one. Number four is a comprehensive clean. Included with all of these numbers is a check for any unwanted organisms such as Aiptasia. So as can be seen maintenance covers a four week cycle.
Maintenance is nearly always done on a Sunday as there is time available, in the morning anyway. It all sounds a bit military maybe, but it works.
The number for today is four, the long one. New seawater ready and waiting, cleaning equipment near the aquarium. The aquarium is surrounded by carpet, so polythene covers are in place. They catch the drips and minor splashes very well.
The very first thing is to clean, with a hard toothbrush, my miniscule algae scrubber. This developed by itself and is obviously doing something as it exists! There must be some level of nutrients in the seawater feeding it. The photo shows it - I did say it is tiny, about 3 inches across and 2 inches deep! The seawater flow is from the hang-on skimmer.
Next the bracing struts and viewing glasses are cleaned with an algae magnet. Only the front and one end viewing glass are done, encrusting algae is permitted to grow on the others.
Exciting stuff this isn’t it! Now the four powerheads which sit in a small compartment are checked. The powerheads driving the under-reef spray bar and anti-phosphate filter have sponge intake filters and these need thorough attention. The anti-phosphate filter is shown in the photo; it is a homemade hang-on type. (Taking the photo was difficult, it is under an open stairway and space is restricted.) The other is an anti-nitrate filter, again homemade but this isn’t in use.
This maintenance is progressing well. The Eheim canister filter is next, the mechanical media has to be checked. This is comprised of fine and medium sponges and it can be surprising how much they catch from what appears to be clean seawater. I have to save numerous very small shrimps as well; these are placed in the display aquarium ensuring the fish don’t get them. There are numbers on the filters - this is from when they were both used for biological purposes so that they could be selected for cleaning, this doesn’t apply now as the biological media has been removed.
Getting there now and it is usually at this point that a cup of coffee appears. Thanks!
Siphoning is next on the agenda but before the main siphon tube is used, I attack any unwanted organisms. Today I located a few Aiptasia and these were dealt with. I’ll have to deal with more as time passes; they are never eliminated, probably because there are so many nooks and crannies in a reef aquarium. As long as they are not left to their own devices for too long they aren’t a problem.
So out come gallons of seawater with the siphon tube, this seawater will be dumped. (I used to use it for brine shrimp production but no longer do so.) At this time any debris spotted on the base of the aquarium is removed. There isn’t much base to be seen but it is checked anyway.
The new seawater is placed on the stairs above the aquarium and my wife kindly makes sure the tube doesn’t come out (not the siphon tube, one that is considerably longer). In goes the seawater.
Not quite done. I manually add certain additives to the seawater, these being calcium, bicarbonate and carbonate powder (for alkalinity) and iodine. Calcium is maintained at around 420ppm and alkalinity at around 4.0meq/L. I don’t measure the iodine level as it is only added once every two weeks at the minimum dose, there has never been a problem.
Nearly time to pack up now, just give the glass bracing struts a clean with a paper towel, likewise the viewing glasses. A check with the hydrometer is required, this is fine at 1024.
Final job - give the fluorescent tubes a wipe. Now it’s all done.
No, not quite. The two fish get some brine shrimp for being so patient!
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Supplementation
May 14, 2009
It is more likely that the reef aquarist will be involved in supplementation, though this is not exclusively so.
In order to achieve a successful marine aquarium of any type seawater quality is very important. Another way of putting it is that for the livestock to thrive the seawater has to meet their needs. Seawater parameters also need to be stable.
The question of salt can be squeezed in here - is this supplementation? Well, perhaps not in the strict sense but anyway… The general practice in the hobby is to measure salt by checking specific gravity (SG) with a hydrometer. The usual range is 1.022 to 1.025 for a fish only system, and 1.024 or 1.025 for a reef. SG has a habit of reducing over time and this is because of salt creep etc. The aquarist no doubt keeps the seawater level topped up with freshwater (preferably reverse osmosis) and checks the SG weekly. If the SG has reduced then it is a simple matter to increase the amount of dry salt that is added for the next routine seawater change.
Some aquarists supplement general minor trace elements. This is done because these trace elements, or some of them, are probably used by livestock and are also removed by protein skimming and activated carbon. Generally, a marine aquarium should not be without a protein skimmer and so this one negative has to be put up with. Similarly there could be a case for the use of activated carbon, though its continuous use is not usually necessary. Supplementing trace elements is a hit and miss affair, the aquarist usually goes by the instructions on the bottle relative to the net gallonage of the system. There doesn’t seem to be any harm done by this, though it generally contravenes the advice ‘Don’t add anything that can’t be tested for’. The aquarist should be aware of the condition of the seawater. A better way of dealing with general trace elements, in my opinion anyway, is to carry out routine seawater changes. The new seawater will contain trace elements and though those lost may not be totally replaced, they will be at least partially and this seems to be sufficient. I have relied on routine seawater changes in this way for years and heavily stocked coral reefs have not suffered.
What is the major supplement used? A fair guess would be calcium particularly with hard coral reefs, as these SPS coral types (SPS = small polyp stony) demand good calcium levels. The usual level maintained for a hard coral reef is from 420ppm (parts per million) to 450ppm, though some aquarists maintain levels as high as 480ppm. Soft coral reefs are fine as low as 400ppm though perhaps 420ppm is better. The aquarist, if testing is regularly done and a note of calcium presence is made, will be able to see the trend. The trend is down and over a period of time the loss can be seen. This enables the aquarist to supplement reasonably accurately. There are two major ways to supplement, the first being the commercially available bottle and the second automation. Which is chosen depends on the calcium demand and the size of the aquarium. In a soft coral aquarium for example, particularly if the aquarium is not large, a commercial application should suffice if routine seawater changes alone don’t. The supplement is added to the seawater in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and in a quantity relevant to the demand. The procedure is very straightforward. The second way is to automate the supplementation by using for example a calcium reactor. This makes the process continuous and probably more favourable as the ‘ups and downs’ in the calcium level are less. Some time has to be spent in very carefully adjusting the seawater drip rate and also ensuring that gas injection is correct. The other requirement is to ensure that the calcium rich media is still present in enough usable quantity.
Whether the calcium addition in manual or automated the need to test is not removed. If the aquarist can see a repetition of the calcium requirement because a notebook has been used to jot down test results over time, then testing can be reduced in frequency¸ but nevertheless still needs to be done.
Another measure that needs to be known particularly with a reef system is alkalinity. Alkalinity is the measure of how much bicarbonate and to a lesser extent carbonate is present in the seawater providing resistance to downward changes in pH. It is sometimes called carbonate hardness or buffer capacity. A complete description of alkalinity will not be gone into, but from the foregoing it can be seen that it is important, the pH of seawater needs to be stable and in the correct range. So the reef aquarist needs to test and note the reading. Again, the trend for alkalinity in an aquarium is downward. Routine seawater changes will assist in the maintenance of the alkalinity level, but supplementation is often also required. Natural seawater has an alkalinity level of around 2.5meq/L. (Don’t worry about the unit measure of alkalinity, test kits give tables and usually conversions to other measures. The unit meq/L is only being used for demonstration. The measure often used otherwise is dKH, and to obtain this simply multiply the meq/L figure by 2.8.) The seas and oceans have vast reserves but in the comparatively diminutive aquarium with a relatively higher bio load it is usual to maintain a higher alkalinity level of between 3 to 4.5meq/L, though 4.0meq/L seems a good measure. Again, if tests have been completed over time and a note made the trend of the aquarium can be seen, permitting the aquarist to know how much needs to be supplemented. Supplementation can be manual using additives that are commercially available, a very straightforward process. Another way is to use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), use about one teaspoonful per 25 gallons of seawater and add to the sump or another area away from corals (mix the powder in some seawater before adding it). If the aquarist uses a two part alkalinity/calcium additive or uses Kalkwasser there could be no need for further alkalinity supplementation. Tests will give the answer.
There are other supplements available, but there is more controversy over these. For example, iodine is said to be particularly beneficial to soft corals and of benefit to all types. Iodine is available commercially and should be added strictly according to the instructions. Only a small amount is needed as required iodine levels are very low. As far as I am aware there isn’t any scientific proof that iodine addition is of any great benefit to the reef livestock, though there are many aquarists who do add it and state that it is of use. With this state of affairs it would seem reasonable to add it, remembering that some will be gained from routine seawater changes. Iodine can be tested for.
Magnesium could be another addition used by the aquarist. Sometimes the dry salt mix itself falls short of the desired level though this is probably uncommon. A check of the level present in the aquarium seawater should be made and a decision based on that.
There are other little bottles that can sometimes be found in aquarium stores, such as molybdenum, bromide, fluoride and vanadium. Sometimes the bottle could contain more than one. Whether there is a real need for supplements of this type is a basis for argument. All I can say is there are many aquarists with lovely successful aquariums that have never used them. Also, routine seawater changes will replace necessary elements at least to an extent.
The main point that needs to be remembered is that ‘magic bottles’ do not bring success, the design and maintenance of the aquarium is the main foundation for this. Maintenance includes testing of the seawater and ensuring that any known necessary elements are present in amounts that are required by the livestock. Overdosing can be very detrimental, so the aquarist has to know the additive quantity actually required without guesswork, which means seawater testing. This testing can be reduced in time if the aquarist keeps a note of test results and aquarium trends can be seen, however testing still needs to be done.
Another point worth mentioning is that if any desired level is found to be markedly deficient supplementing to regain the correct level should not be done quickly. Stability is a requirement already mentioned, so if a larger change is required it should be done slowly in small steps.
‘High quality seawater’ is generally accepted as the number one requirement in any type of marine system. This high quality is sometimes simply interpreted as a lack of nitrates and phosphates which is correct up to a point. Particularly in a reef system, the presence of elements in sufficient amounts to meet the needs of livestock is also important.
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Aquarium Maintenance - Can Laziness Set In?
April 5, 2009
Over the years I have seen many aquariums - some of which are extremely well cared for and others which have become neglected.
At the start of this hobby many aquarists are filled with eagerness and spend a lot of time learning as much as they can about the hobby, what all the equipment does, why water quality is important etc etc and finally they have their very own marine aquarium all set up.
At the start they are very diligent about the maintenance requirements of the aquarium and carefully perform water tests each week, change the water, empty the skimmer, record all the information etc.
However, over time the aquarium becomes an item which appears like it has always been there, the once diligent testing regime starts to slip and the ‘I’ll do it tomorrow’ starts to set in which then might move on to ‘I’ll do it next week’..
That’s the laziness bit which was mentioned in the title.
Slowly, over time the aquarium starts to deteriorate, algae may start to set in, the sand may start to get dirty, the corals do not extend as much and then the aquarists reaches a turning point. At some point the aquarist notices that the aquarium is not looking as good as it used to and either realises that it needs to be put right and starts to care for the aquarium again or gives up the hobby.
Unfortunately this happens a lot.
It is my opinion that when the decision is made to keep a marine aquarium that the required maintenance is understood up front and that it must be adhered to. After all inside the aquarium is life which have a requirement to be cared for. If you owned a dog would you leave it at home all day, never take it for a walk and never wash it - no I didn’t think so.
I appreciate that there are a lot of people who have busy lives which could be one of the reasons why the aquarium hobby fascinated them in the first place however whilst the aquarium is a joy to observe and is exceptionally relaxing the life in the aquarium has a requirement to be cared for.
Fortunately this is only a small minority of people - the majority of aquarists have a passion for aquatic life and gain enjoyment from looking after the aquarium as well as watching it.
Personally I live quite a hectic life and therefore do not have a set day for looking after the aquarium however I do ensure that the maintenance is performed. I perform the maintennace on an evening after Joshua has gone to bed and the ‘better half’ has settled down to watch television for the evening. I ensure that all the water tests are performed, clean the aquarium, empty and clean the skimmer and do a visual check of the aquarium.
Although I ensure that everything is performed on a weekly basis I do not really have a routine.
My father John on the other hand however is exceptionally diligent at maintaining his aquarium. Every Sunday morning without fail he maitains his aquarium and I also believe he has a set regime for what he does and when.
There are times when I laugh about his regime but when you see his aquarium you can see why it works. As said I have seen many aquariums over the years and although I am probably a bit biased his aquarium is the best I have ever seen.
As already mentioned the majority of aquarists are very good in this area and perform the aquarium maintenance required however there are a few that don’t and my message to these people is - why did you take up this hobby in the first place - it is not fair to the life in the aquarium that they are not looked after.
The bottom line in my opinion is that if the aquarium cannot be maintained in a timely manner or time cannot be devoted to it then perhaps the marine aquarium hobby is not the right hobby to start.
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Marine Aquariums Are Great, But Need A Bit Of Weeding
January 18, 2009
We all know that a successful marine aquarium doesn’t get that way all on its own. Nature has a very large part to play, and the aquarist needs to carry out ongoing maintenance.
Marine aquariums nowadays are generally successful. There are those that fail for one reason or another, sometimes because of a basic error by the aquarist such as an inadequate bio-filter. As said though, most are successful greatly helped by the amount of knowledge gained from experience that is available on the internet and in books. Science can tell us a lot but there is more to it than that - there needs to be integration between technology and Mother Nature. Skill if you like. All the gadgets that are available helps towards this, gadgets such as protein skimmers, calcium reactors, power heads and the like, not to mention the high quality dry salt mixes that are available now and have made such a difference.
In the early days marine aquarists weren’t so lucky, dry salt mixes were not available for a start. Aquarists could look up the suggested mixes and obtain the ingredients, what was produced was a brew very unlike natural seawater, with many parts missing. Protein skimmers and calcium reactors had not been invented, at least not for the fledgling marine hobby, so a lot of ingenuity was required. The actual ongoing seawater mix would be unknown - how for example could calcium be measured by a hobbyist? These early aquarists were the ones who kicked it all off though, maybe for the challenge.
The early aquarists couldn’t dream of keeping corals or shrimps, how they would gape in awe at a modern reef system! They kept fish only aquariums, which were decorated with dead coral and various base coverings. Fish were lost as a regular occurrence and it must have been a mystery and a nightmare. They wouldn’t know the fish were poisoning themselves - no bio-filtration! Longevity of the fish was perhaps assisted by seawater changes? Fish were also lost because of the dreaded ‘white spot’ or ‘velvet’, the parasitic diseases.
Looking for cleanliness which the lack of was thought to be a reason why fish didn’t live long, an invention eventually arrived called the undergravel filter. This was a real milestone as oxygen laden seawater moving through the substrate caused the creation of a bio-filter. The inventor of the undergravel filter, a man called Stratton if memory serves me correctly, didn’t believe that the change was anything to do with bacteria as eventually science advised, but continued to believe it was enhanced cleanliness that increased the health of the fish. He was correct in a way; fouling toxic ammonia and nitrite were being removed.
The next big jump was the arrival of the protein skimmer. A remaining scourge of the aquarist was the fish ‘wipeout’, when all fish were lost for some strange reason. The arrival of protein skimmers, quite crude and not very efficient at first, sorted that out.
So it has gone on until the present day. Now success is the normal outcome for an aquarist. Seawater quality is high, fish are healthy and corals, shrimps and all manner of reef life are being kept in good health.
So we can sit back and just gaze at our fish and/or corals. Certainly we can, and that’s one thing I do particularly after a maintenance period.
A successful aquarium has high seawater quality, good seawater movement and adequate lighting. So the livestock should feel at home. They no doubt do - as do uninvited guests!
The gardener loves the display that has been created, apart from those weeds that keep popping up and spreading if allowed.
The marine aquarium is the same. Now that conditions are so good all manner of pests can arrive, perhaps with live rock or coral rock. Aiptasia (aaagh! I hear the cry!). Sailor’s Eyeballs too. These pests if not controlled will spread alarmingly, as will red flatworms. Some flatworms can also attack corals. Then there are nudibranchs that could be imported on the coral rock that their target prey is on. Not to mention some snails. There are more.
So the modern marine aquarium is becoming more natural to the livestock it holds. Because of this there is greatly increased success in livestock health and longevity. It follows that the captive reef in its modern splendor could become home to unwanted life too.
The problem, if it can be called that, is that the captive reef will never be able to hold the diversity of life that the wild reef can. Some of that diversity of life is predatory, and it predates on the pests that we battle with. There is a balance on the wild reef that we aquarists will not be able to match.
So the aquarist has to become the predator. He or she has to spend a little time attacking the pests so that they don’t get out of control. It can be a pain but, like the gardener, it’s worth it for the sake of everything else.
All that is required is vigilance and that is part of good husbandry anyway. If the pests are kept under control which needs a little extra attention, it is a small price to pay for the rewards.
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Which Aquarium Salt Should You Use
October 31, 2008
A long time ago, before I commenced keeping a marine aquarium, seawater had to be mixed by hand using ingredients that had been individually obtained from a chemist. The hobby books of the day, and they were very few, gave details of the mix. This mix was pretty basic, and contained very few trace elements and not many of the minor ones.
As time passed a few dry aquarium salt mixes appeared which had been produced commercially. They did contain most of or perhaps the entire major, minor and trace elements. It was discovered that nitrate and phosphate were unwanted as they had become known as nuisance algae nutrients, and the salt manufacturers made a great show of how their particular salt was free of them.
Now there are many commercial aquarium salt mixes available and they all claim to be ‘the best’. The mixes are now very consistent and considerable advances have been made in trying to emulate nature’s own, the seas and oceans. Some aquarists use natural seawater, and there are anecdotal reports that they have met with success, corals being really well extended and fish healthy. Most aquarists use a dry salt mix however, as it is convenient wherever the aquarist lives.
The production of dry salt mixes has moved on as the hobby has. No longer do marine aquarists struggle to maintain their livestock as technology and knowledge have made it easier. Aquariums that would dazzle those pioneer aquarists of long ago now exist - those where some of the most beautiful fish of the wild reefs are kept, and those where a living captive reef is maintained. Proper husbandry and knowledge plus technology make it possible.
The highest priority for any marine aquarium is the quality of the seawater. This is even ahead of lighting for a reef aquarium, the close second. Low quality seawater leads to problems and there isn’t any need for it. Modern sea salt mixes go a long way to providing this quality. The aquarist needs to be aware of the parameters that are required and maintain them, with supplementary additions if and as needed and routine seawater changes.
So all the aquarist needs to do is go to the local fish shop (LFS) or use the internet and buy what is needed. Basically, yes, that’s it - couldn’t be easier. There are a couple of things to bear in mind though.
The first is that which has already been mentioned. It would be unusual for a dry salt mix to be contaminated with phosphate and nitrate nowadays, but nevertheless the aquarist should be happy that it isn’t. Most manufacturers state the fact on the packaging.
Next the type of fresh water that is being used should be considered. Some aquarists use it straight from the tap, and others use RO (reverse osmosis) water. The latter is where the tap water has been passed through a very fine filter - ‘super-filtered’ it could be called. RO is the one that is recommended as it will have fewer impurities.
If the aquarist uses tap water then what perhaps is ‘ordinary’ salt could be used. This is where the mix contains the ‘standard’ amount of calcium, for example. Tap water contains amounts of calcium (which varies according to location) and there isn’t a need to have additional calcium in the dry mix. If RO water is in use then much of the content of the tap water will have been removed and a salt mix with extra calcium could be used to ensure that the level is brought up correctly. Actually, it shouldn’t be a disaster if either salt mix type is used with either fresh water type, tap or filtered tap, but the salt mixes are there so why not use them.
Then there are the mixes, as above, that claim to be suitable for reef use, as they have extra this and that which usually includes calcium. These find favour with many aquarists.
So choosing a dry aquarium salt mix nowadays is straightforward. There are those mixes that are very well known and have been in use for years, and there are more that could be just as good but are less well known. Perhaps selecting the type that a successful aquarist colleague uses is the best route, or one that is highly recommended on the internet and in hobby magazines.
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Should You Use An Aquarium Gravel Cleaner
October 7, 2008
Aquarium maintenance routines with the marine aquarium are essential. A well maintained system where all the various bits and bobs are regularly and properly completed generally gives the reward of health and vitality for the occupants.
One of the eye-catching things with a marine aquarium is the décor. Fish only and reef aquariums have rocks, and these are often displayed against a sand substratum. The sand makes the display look more natural and the colour white shows off really well.
If the sand layer is for decorative purposes only it will usually consist of coarse coral sand about 1″ (circa 2.5cm) to 2″ (circa 5cm) thick. As time goes by the sand traps particles of detritus, which eventually could give it a dirty look. In addition, the dirt within the sand could give cause to the growth of unwanted algae, considerably reducing the attractiveness.
It is easy to deal with this problem and using an aquarium gravel cleaner assists the process considerably. A gravel cleaner usually consists of a bulbous open ended device at one end to go on and into the sand, and a tube to remove seawater. Often there is also a device such as a net to trap particles in case the aquarist wishes to return the seawater straight back to the aquarium. Finally, sometimes there is a device to start a siphon - some cleaners even have a small pump.
It would seem best to use the cleaner when a routine seawater change is in progress. This means that an additional operation for sand cleaning isn’t required and there isn’t any chance of removed detritus getting back into the aquarium. When the siphon has been successfully started, the business end is placed into the sand and carefully moved along with a gentle stirring motion. As the detritus is released it is sucked up and removed, as will be any algae on the surface. It may be difficult to maneuver the cleaner close to rocks - in this case use a thin wooden stick or similar to stir the sand in this area. The amount of dirt that could be released from a sand bed can sometimes be surprising. Care has to be taken that sand is not being sucked up as obviously this should stay in the aquarium. To prevent sand loss the seawater flow could be reduced though this may also reduce the effectiveness of detritus removal. Anyway, if any sand is sucked up it can easily be replaced, but may need a separate wash first if it has been caught in a net with detritus.
The sand cleaning exercise time period is governed by the amount of seawater that needs removing for the seawater change. Perhaps the whole sand bed can be completed, but if not there isn’t any rush as, say, half could be done and the other half next time. It is better to thoroughly clean the sand than aim at completion in one go. It is best to clean the sand bed every few weeks, or at least regularly enough to prevent it becoming very dirty.
If the aquarist employs a DSB (deep sand bed) or plenum (a raised DSB) then a gravel cleaner should not be used. There are two main reasons for this. First, the sand should not be disturbed or the important function could be upset reducing the efficiency of the bed. Second, the sand used for the construction of a DSB is very fine and the cleaner would no doubt remove it rapidly. Unless there is a real problem, when some research should be undertaken, leave a DSB alone. These types of sand beds often look quite scruffy on the surface and this is normal. This scruffiness is also another reason why, in my opinion, a DSB is better off in a sump rather than being placed in a display aquarium.
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Water Changes - Why Are They Performed
September 14, 2008
Part of all aquarists maintenance routine should be performing a water change on the aquarium. Water changes are not just limited to saltwater aquarium - all home aquariums have a requirement for their water to be changed.
I was doing my water change today as part of my weekly maintenance regime and I thought to myself ‘how many people change the water without actually knowing why they are doing it…’
This article is aimed at owners of saltwater aquariums as there are slight differences between saltwater aquariums and other home aquariums - one of which is salt of course!
The recommended amount of water to be changed is 10% per week however this is not a figure which is set in stone as more may be changed if there are problems with the aquarium and less may be changed for various other reasons.
Due to the percentage water change this does mean that some people will be changing a small amount of water and others will be changing a lot more. Personally I have an aquarium where I am able to make up enough reverse osmosis water to perform the change. My aquarium is 100 gallons so 10 gallons is relatively easy to produce as my reverse osmosis unit is quite quick.
Other people decide to make up a large batch of reverse osmosis water and keep it for use until the container runs dry.
It’s whatever works best for you really.
If you look at the back of the box/container which the dry salt mix comes in you will see that it is made up of many things. This is one of the reasons why we change water.
The animals which we keep in the aquarium, especially corals, use some of what is in the water. Each of them has a different demand and slowly but surely the amount in the water is slowly reduced. When a water change is performed this element is added back to the water so effectively the element(s) being used are topped up which the livestock can then use.
One of these such elements is calcium. A lot of life in aquariums require calcium. When a water change is performed calcium is added back into the aquarium. For some aquarists this will be enough to maintain the calcium at the required level however for others they may need to use alternative methods to top up the calcium levels.
The replacement of required elements is a very important reason to change the water in the home aquarium however it is not the only reason.
Another reason we change water is that we are able to remove dissolved organic compounds from the aquarium before the filtration has had time to break them down. The protein skimmer attached to the aquarium can only process the water which flows through it and not all of the water in the aquarium will do so. It is recommended that when you perform a water change that you clean the rockwork as well. By blowing the detritus etc on the rock work in the water column this can be removed at the same time as the water. When a water change is performed some of the dissolved organic compounds are also removed and the water which replaces it is nice and clean.
If a sand bed is used for decorative purposes only i.e. it is not a deep sand bed or a plenum then the time when a water change is being performed is a perfect time for cleaning the sand. Stirring it is fine as all the detritus etc will flow up into the water column and can be siphoned out with the water.
When water is removed from the aquarium any nutrients in the aquarium are also removed. One of these is the dreaded nitrate. All aquarists aim for readings of zero when it comes to nitrate however water changes can be used to control nitrate. For example if you have 10ppm for nitrate in the aquarium and replace 10% of the water then your new reading should be 9ppm. Over time and with careful management this nitrate reading can be reduced further. Another nutrient which can be controlled/managed via water changes is phosphate.
Therefore effectively the main reasons we perform water changes is to add essential elements back into the water which have been used by corals, fish etc and also to remove nutrients, detritus etc from the water whereas if left they could be broken down by the filtration and become problematic.
I personally belive that water changes are one of the first things to be skipped when aquarists become lazy with the aquarium care and maintenance. At the end of the day we perform water changes so that we can attempt to achieve what all aquarists attempt to get - excellent water quality. If water changes were not performed then the fish, corals etc which live in this confined environment will be living in an environment which is not suitable for them.
Would you like to live in an environment which was polluted, full of nutrients and over time would make you poorly? I know I wouldn’t - so why make your livestock.
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