Maintenance Day - Extended
March 30, 2008
Maintenance day comes once a week when the necessary checks and cleaning are done to keep the display (a soft coral reef) looking at its best. The display is fine during the week, just the slow accumulation of algae on the viewing glass. It only needs a daily top-up to adjust the water level and, of course, the inmates need feeding. Feeding is a real pleasure, the fish have been in for well over five years and nearly talk to me when I’m near. ‘Food, you idiot’ I can almost hear them call.
Anyway, the maintenance. As usual, the glasses were cleaned, no big deal, not a lot of algae. Pumps, skimmer, lights and filters were checked, as was the temperature. No problems.
Having finished, I always make time to look at the display, to appreciate it. It was during this that I noticed a large soft branching coral leaning way over another, and the smaller one had some of its polyps closed. Clearly didn’t like being in contact. Right, thought I, I’ll check the size of the bigger coral. So I carefully bent the bigger coral so I could see the base. The coral now nearly covered the rock it had been ‘planted’ on. As I released the coral the epoxy putty that fixed the rock came away. The rock fell over. ‘Oh dear’ I said…or something like that!
Having brought the packet of epoxy putty from storage in preparation, I studied the position the rock would need to go in so that the bigger coral would not over reach the smaller one. During this my eye was drawn to a solid mass of colour further along the back of the tank. This mass turned out to be ten baby toadstools (Sarcophyton sp). The heads were from about ¾” to 1 ½” in diameter. From above they were a solid mass of polyps. It was obvious that, left alone, there would be problems with growth, eventually affecting two larger toadstools. These ten babies were pruned, this was done by removing the heads. It is likely that at least some of the stalks will form new heads. Having removed these ten, I saw two more lower down (I was a bit surprised - what about the light?). These two also had their heads removed. Sounds like something from the French revolution. There remains a group of three slightly larger toadstools, a bigger one toward the back glass, and one on the left, nearer the front, half way down the reef.
Job done, except I still needed to put the other coral rock back with the epoxy putty. This is an easy job and didn’t take long.
Once again I sat back and viewed the display. Some of the corals were not too pleased at my efforts and were sulking. Not a problem, they’ll soon be out again.
I put away the equipment and additives etc needed for the routine maintenance. Cup of coffee time.
I’m not sure what made me do it, but just before I lowered the lighting array, I ran my eye over the back of the tank from above. Maybe I was hoping to see a baby coral of a different type or something. What I did see was not pleasing.
At first I thought there was only one. Easily recognisable. Not wanted. An aiptasia anemone. Soon sort you out. I have a continuing argument with aiptasia and have fairly regular skirmishes with them. I’d discovered the aiptasia because with the toadstools present it couldn’t be seen.
Out came Joe’s Juice (good old Joe, whoever he is!) and I placed the syringe over the anemone. No problem. The anemone reacted swiftly as usual.
Trouble was, I now realised there were more than one, maybe five or so, but not particularly large, the tallest being around 1″. They were accessible. I’ve learned to be quite sneaky, not throwing a shadow over the anemones or touching them as they may retract. The fluid was applied successfully - the anemones reacted as they should.
The maintenance took twice as long as normal. Still, if I hadn’t done the toadstool pruning…
I’m always on watch for changes in the display and coral problems (usually excess growth).
I just wish the aiptasia could be more useful, like providing food for a reef friendly colourful creature that will most definitely eat them.
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Tags: aquarium, Aquarium Maintenance, Care, home-aquarium, marine-aquarium, reef-tank, saltwater-aquariumWhy Does Sand Become Such A Detritus Trap?
March 26, 2008
Not all marine aquarium systems use sand. These are said to be ‘bare-bottom‘, and the aquarists have decided to forego a sand bed in the interests of cleanliness. When the aquarium is new, the bare bottom does look unfinished, but in a little time if the seawater conditions are correct the bottom is covered in different algae, and this can look very attractive. Note this is not the often persistent nuisance algae, but decorative types.
I would hazard a guess that the majority of systems have sand in. This can be either decorative sand or a deep sand bed (DSB) or plenum (a raised DSB).
The sand used on a DSB is of fine particles, and dirt that reaches its surface has a tendency to sit there. Eventually it is utilised by the tiny life forms that inhabit the area. Some may penetrate a little way but not a lot and not very far. These beds are around 4″ deep or more.
If the sand is used for decorative purposes only it is placed in the display aquarium and covers the base. The sand is usually coarse and makes a very attractive addition to the aquarium. These beds are often up to 1″ deep.
The reason the sand becomes dirty is mainly because of the size of the grains. In the DSB as stated it is fine, perhaps it could be described as very fine. If a fairly strong water current hits it a cloud can be raised. Though problems can arise with a DSB, with proper construction and sufficient life it is not usually dirt penetration.
The coarse sand of the decorative sand bed is a different story. Fish faeces, bits of food, dead algae and other general rubbish can fall to the bed. It breaks down and falls between the grains. The grains are coarse enough to allow tiny dirt particles to follow the ’channels’ formed by the spaces between grains. Enough of this dirt can cause the sand to become clogged. This was a major problem with the under gravel filter of yesteryear, which pulled water down through coarse sand and the dirt with it.
With a decorative bed the way to prevent this is to stir the sand frequently with a clean stick. The stirring can be reasonably vigorous and is best done at the time a routine water change is performed. This allows the aquarist to stir the sand and follow the stirring stick with the intake of the water hose, removing dirt. There isn’t any need to do all the sand bed at once, just a proportion at each change. The aquarist can become very expert at this job.
A DSB should never be stirred or the disturbance can spoil the filtration capability of the bed. As said, a well made DSB will possibly look scruffy but should never become really dirty.
It is important to stir a decorative sand bed routinely as described as it prevents the bed from becoming really dirty, which would make the cleaning job much more difficult. If the bed is really very dirty, it would probably be best to siphon out a proportion of the bed at each water change, thoroughly rinse it, and then return it. Routine stirring will prevent the need for drastic cleaning and maintain the attractive appearance of the display aquarium.
Tags: Aquarium Filtration, Aquarium Maintenance, Care, deep-sand-bed, plenum
Maintain That Skimmer
February 29, 2008
The protein skimmer is a device that is essential to the maintenance of high quality seawater in nearly all systems. There is a system that claims to not need a skimmer, but aquarists often run one anyway. Using a protein skimmer is particularly useful to experienced aquarists and beginners alike.
The skimmer when purchased, whether a hang-on or stand alone model, should be sized at around twice the net gallonage of the system. This is because manufacturers can be a little enthusiastic about skimmer capabilities, and it also takes into account, up to a point, the less efficient skimmers on the market.
Any device is only as good as the necessary maintenance it receives. The skimmer is no exception.
There are (I assume) not that many air driven skimmers left in use. If the skimmer is air driven, then it is important to ensure that maximum air is being delivered properly. This is done by ensuring that the air pump is operating at full efficiency, without clogged air filters or damaged diaphragms. The bubbles coming from the air ’stone’ should be very large in number and very small in size. If they are not, change the ‘stone’ for a new one. If this doesn’t make any difference check the pump for problems as above.
The skimmer is more than likely to be a venturi model nowadays. These come in different guises that are essentially the same - flowing water from a pump passes an intake where air is taken in. The air is pounded into small bubbles by the pump impellor or a variation of this. Again, the bubbles should be very numerous and very small, If they are not, check the air intake (venturi) as these have a tendency to block. Switching the unit off can often clear them by allowing the blockage to dissolve. If this doesn’t work, check the air line to the venturi is clear. Always adhere to the manufacturer’s maintenance instructions.
There are other skimmers which are less common.
All skimmers should have the bubble chamber packed with bubbles. This is often evident by the colour - the chamber appears close to white.
A very important maintenance task with a skimmer is cleaning. Over time, the period depending on the level of dissolved organics in the seawater, the cup will fill. This should be emptied and cleaned. Whether the cup is full or not, the aquarist should check the condition of the effluent throat (the part where the bubbles rise up towards the cup). This is because a layer of scum builds up here, and the efficiency of the skimmer is directly affected by it. Clean it off and maintain efficiency.
A skimmer does not always perform at full efficiency when new. This is because of the manufacturing process and the plastic. It will soon settle down, however. The same thing could happen for a shorter period when the skimmer has been cleaned.
The great majority of aquarists should have a skimmer and run it continuously. It is a direct contribution to the health of the aquarium.
Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Care, Equipment, marine-aquarium, Protein Skimmer
Should You Clean The Sand In Your Aquarium
January 21, 2008
Keeping the aquarium clean is imperative to maintaining excellent water quality but should you clean the sand?
Well this depends upon what type of sand bed you have implemented into your aquarium.
If you have installed a deep sand bed to aid with aquarium filtration then no you should not manually clean it. With a deep sand bed the cleaning needs to be performed by what I call critters. These are things like small starfish, micro fauna etc. The burrow through the sand and keep it clean on your behalf - natures cleaners.
If you have a shallow sand bed, use sand for decorative purposes etc then yes you should clean it. Over time a sand bed which is not used for filtration will end up with uneaten food, fish waste, detritus etc contained or clogged within it.
I always recommend to install a clean up crew into an aquarium. Putting a clean up crew is basically purchasing hermit crabs, snails, shrimps etc to assist you with the cleaning of the aquarium. Some of these animals will assist in the cleaning of the sand and others will not.
Even if you have a clean up crew in the aquarium I would still recommend that you manually give the sand bed a bit of a clean.
Basically all you need to do is gently stir the sand when you are doing your water change. When you stir the sand all the detritus etc will lift up into the water column and you can siphon it out with the water. Dependant upon the size of the aquarium you might not be able to clean the entire bed so just start at one end and clean as much as you can. The next time you do a water change start where you left off.
Simple to do but definately worth it.
Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Care, fish-tank-maintenance, marine-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium
Aquarium Maintenance Software
December 18, 2007
Both John and I record our water parameters, maintenance activities etc in a little book which we complete after each water test, when items are due for replacement etc.
Over time this gives us a very good representation as to what is happening in the aquarium, any trends which can be identified, trouble which can be potentially averted prior to it happening etc.
This is the way we do it and a lot of other aquarists all over the world do it this way as well.
Of course there are some people who do not record any information at all. The water is simply tested to check if everything is ok. If it is then it is simply forgotten about, if it isn’t then steps are hopefully put in place to locate and rectify the issue.
As with anything there are other ways in which you can record the information. One of which is via the use of computer software.
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Download A Reef Aquarium Seawater Test Chart, A Reminder Chart, And A General Notes Chart
December 17, 2007
These aquarium maintenance charts are available for download and will hopefully assist in the methodical testing of the seawater, the timeous changing of lighting and filter medias, and also offer a means of keeping track of aquarium livestock additions.
The Test Chart: this of course is very easily adaptable to a fish only system by using only the tests that are applicable.
By using a test chart and testing routinely, the aquarist can see that the seawater parameters are stable. On the other hand, any trend, such as falling calcium levels, changing pH etc can be spotted. Trends often show up, allowing the aquarist to accurately calculate, for example, the amount of an additive that is required at intervals.
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Is There Such A Thing As A Maintenance Free Aquarium?
November 7, 2007
A maintenance free aquarium - no work at all! Just view and enjoy the coral colours and the various reef fish. Many or perhaps all aquarists would tend to call that aquatic heaven - maybe.
Is it possible though? Is there a way that the aquarist can design a marine system where, once all is settled and mature, there is nothing else to do?
The first thing is to compare the aquarium to the wild reef. Yes, there are the same kind of inhabitants in the aquarium as on the wild reef, just fewer of them. Also, there are far fewer species of livestock on the captive reef. So, there’s the first point - the wild reef has far greater diversity of life. The different species have their own niche on the wild reef, each having a food source. There are some overlaps of course but generally it is all very well organised. Nature has everything under control. The first problem that the aquarist is likely to face is in making sure that all potential difficulties are dealt with, from dealing with different forms of nuisance algae to having enough food for fish if kept.
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