Maybe a friend’s aquarium or some in a dealer’s have been seen and they are so good – good in more than one way, they are relaxing and the aquarium world is very interesting.

A marine aquarium doesn’t build itself of course; they have to be constructed in such a way that the type of aquarium is properly supported. Without this there are going to be problems and that’s not a pleasure. So there’s a general procedure that should be followed.

Are you willing to give the time? This might seem strange as it’s obvious that putting an aquarium together takes time. The construction stage is fine, the enthusiasm of ‘newness’ is there and the potential aquarist is bubbling over in the desire to get on with it. It’s not only in the initial stages that problems could arise however, it’s later on. There’s weekly maintenance that needs to be done month in month out year in year out. It doesn’t seem problematical at first but it can be when enthusiasm has waned somewhat. So starting a marine aquarium should never be an instant decision – the very fact that livestock are present demands consistency.

Have you the space? Normally the largest aquarium that will fit is chosen, this is the natural choice as big is seen as better. It’s true that a large aquarium has the greater initial visual impact but smaller ones can also be very beautiful and interesting as can be found by browsing the internet. The aquarium shouldn’t be too tight a fit as it could be necessary to get round the sides for maintenance. Mentally picture the aquarium in place – could maintenance be reasonably easily accomplished? There needs to be a power outlet close to the aquarium and this should be accessible once the aquarium is in place. Don’t forget that the aquarium is going to have to stand on something so perhaps a cabinet is required? A sump is a good idea so to  avoid any impact on space could one go in the cabinet beneath the aquarium? Consider the construction of the floor – seawater plus rocks plus aquarium equals considerable weight. Will the floor support it?

What type of aquarium will it be? There are three types, fish only, corals only and mixed reef (fish and corals). This choice has an impact on the equipment that is needed, for example corals need special lighting.

How about the cost of purchase for the equipment? This really is important as mistakes could lead to corner cutting – not the way to start! There is the aquarium of course and any sump that will be used. There could be overflow holes required in the aquarium – will this be DIY or done by a dealer? There is the cabinet if required. Consider the amount of sea salt needed for the initial mix, it isn’t cheap. Then there is the necessary electrical equipment such as sufficiently sized heaters, circulation pumps, the return pump from the sump, canister filter(s) or live rock, a correctly sized protein skimmer and lights plus two timers. Then there are the test kits to monitor the seawater condition. A good way to obtain a general guideline of the cost is to make a list of the needed items then price them from sources on the internet, a magazine or a local dealer.

How much will the livestock cost? The local dealer should have various corals and fish which will permit a guideline to be obtained. This will not be accurate as decisions on what types have not been made but at least knowledge of the general cost of various types can be obtained.

How much will it cost to run? Feeding the livestock is not costly. Sea salt is needed for routine weekly partial seawater changes. Test kits will need renewing from time to time. There is the electrical cost which is easy to estimate if a list of required items has been made. These items each have a wattage (W) – add these up. This will come to part of a kilowatt or a number of kilowatts and a part per hour. The cost of a kilowatt (1000 watts) will be known so the daily, weekly etc cost can be determined. For a day just multiply by 24 and so on. Heaters  and lights will not be on all the time so divide the wattage by two for these for estimate purposes.

Is it all too expensive? There’s no need to give up yet. Consider a smaller aquarium. This will reduce the cost of nearly everything. However, new purchase and running estimates need to be considered to be sure, if it is still too expensive or if there is a doubt, don’t start.

Is everything acceptable? Wonderful, the initial stages are complete, the aquarium, cabinet and any sump can be obtained plus other equipment. Some more research will be needed to ensure that the equipment purchased is suitable for the aquarium size and the job it has to do.

Marine aquariums are supposed to be relaxing, the stuff above doesn’t look like it! Marine aquariums are most definitely relaxing – and exciting, and beautiful. That of course is when they’re finished and settled. They won’t be finished and settled if not set up correctly, so they will not be beautiful and definitely not relaxing. The aquarist will face stress because of problems. It isn’t necessary to have every bell and whistle available but the aquarium must have the basic adequate necessities.

There are two important words for marine aquarists and these are research and patience. The above are the first steps which should give a base for success without any unwanted surprises such as the electricity bill. If research into for example stocking has been done and ongoing maintenance is adequate then success has been given an adequate foundation. All the information needed is on this website or other websites, there for the taking.

There are jobs that can take up time with a marine aquarium whether the system is fish only, corals only or mixed reef. Some of these jobs cannot be automated, such as cleaning the algae off the viewing glasses. However there are some straightforward basic  tasks that could be.

Light is essential on all  systems though the type of light (the spectrum) is particularly important on corals only and mixed reefs. Light itself is important on all aquarium types as it provides the rhythm of life – when it goes dark fish find their hide holes and corals could start to close. At the same time night life could appear such as the tiny creatures in the rocks and sand. Light is the first item to automate – most aquarists do but there are those few who turn it on and off manually which is not recommended. First there needs to be a set pattern or rhythm to ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods, livestock need this in the same way that  humans do. The lighting ‘on’ period needs to the same day after day, with corals this is set to the length of time the corals need. All that is needed are electric timers, usually two. Why two? It’s very bad practice to plunge a dark aquarium into bright light or vice versa as this is very unnatural and causes some livestock panic. Fish for example need time to settle and go to their night time abodes where they have security. Daytime doesn’t start with instantaneous sun-up but there is a gradual increase of light. Coral only and mixed reef systems usually (but not always) employ strong white lighting and also blue (actinic) light as the latter is very useful to corals. So if the white light is turned on by one timer the blue can be turned on by another. The blue comes on around 30 minutes before the white and turns off about 30 minutes after. Though not a proper dawn and dusk this is sufficient for the ‘night time is coming’ and ‘wake up now’ needs of livestock. A fish only system could have say two white tubes fitted – it’s simple to fit one additional blue tube which enhances the fish colours as well.

Another job that could be automated is seawater level. Maintaining the correct level is important as this has an impact on salinity. It has to be said that topping up manually each day isn’t usually negative as far as salinity is concerned as the amount of water lost through evaporation in one day shouldn’t have a large impact, nevertheless there is an impact. If an accurate graph were to be drawn of salinity levels over say a week, the up/down fluctuation would be smaller with automated top up than with manual as the automated system applies several smaller top-ups in a day. Though it’s probably correct to assume that most marine aquarists (except perhaps those with fish only systems) run their aquariums open that is without cover glasses, those that have cover glasses will lose less water. If the water top-up is to be automated all that is required is a simple system that can be purchased commercially and which are not particularly expensive. These mostly consist of a float valve (to signal when water is required and when water is at the correct level), a small electric pump (to send replacement water when needed) and a water reservoir. Once set up the aquarist need only ensure the system continues to operate correctly and also keep an adequate supply of fresh water in the reservoir. This supply should really be RO (reverse osmosis) water.

There is an important point that should be made about water in the reservoir and this is it must be fresh water not salt water. When water evaporates from the display aquarium it is fresh – the salt is left behind. Using salt water will mean a slowly increasing salinity level. Salt could be lost but this is usually from salt creep, this is when salt encrustation is seen on wires, glass etc. that are close to the seawater surface.

The final basic automation that could be considered by the aquarist is feeding. Experiments have been done where several feeds a day have been injected into the aquarium so that fish can feed more naturally (as opposed to one or two major feeds each day). There have been successes with a few of these efforts but the system is troublesome. The major problem is keeping the food fresh (the foods used are a mixture of ‘meaty’ substances in small bits plus a little very small flake mixed in). The food is in a reservoir which is stirred continuously to keep the food dispersed so it can be successfully pumped to the aquarium and the pump used for this is a very small specialist pump (called a peristaltic pump) that is able to deliver small programmed doses (on the same principle as medical ones that are used to deliver small precise amounts at given times to patients). These are the first problems, stirring the mixture and ensuring the pump isn’t going to block as the tubes used are narrow. The major problem as already said is keeping the food fresh – these foods can ‘go off’ quite quickly. This was overcome by refrigeration – the food to be used was kept in a very small refrigerator from which it was pumped on demand, usually the pump was not inside with the food but a narrow tube (which is the method of delivery with these pumps) came through the casing.

Any aquarist who is not into general experimentation (which includes most of us) can easily see that the effort and expense is not worth the result. Provided an adequate diet is fed and overfeeding is avoided, feeding once or twice a day doesn’t seem to do any harm to most livestock types, though as always there are exceptions such as small mouthed specialist feeders who often  can’t compete with bolder greedier types. These more timid types are dealt with on an individual basis by the aquarist.

What about other automatic feeders then? These are available commercially and as mechanisms are generally reliable and not overly expensive. They usually clip to the aquarium side near and above the seawater surface. This positioning could be a problem, the fixing needs to be secure. The devices have several partitions so that one meal or more can be delivered per day at pre-set times. Unfortunately, for the devices to deliver the food it must be dry so it doesn’t clog or stick which rules out some marine foods such as frozen and leaves the choice as flake. Flake is placed in the device as desired and is delivered according to the set programme to the seawater surface. The flake has obviously not been pre-soaked so it floats on the surface for a while anyway. It could be that eagle eyed fish will see it and come to the surface to eat. The problem is that some perhaps most of this floating food could disappear over a weir to a sump or down a surface feeding filter intake and the like. These devices are not desirable in another way – they take away the enjoyment of interaction between the aquarist and the livestock. Most importantly, they could remove or reduce the time when the aquarist watches the fish and notes anything that could be a problem.

There are other more advanced devices that could be automated but above are the basic ones which most aquarists could consider. The one for lighting is considered essential. The one for water top-ups is for the aquarist to decide, many find it easy to top up each day though circumstances and aquarium size vary. The one for feeding is easy to consider – the first refrigerated method is more than most aquarists need or are willing to cope with. The second simpler flake feeder devices could be useful, but if to be considered it’s suggested that one is seen in action first on a friend’s system. If impressive enough then consideration needs to be given to security of delivery which depends on individual systems – the food needs to get to the fish and not be gathered up in a sump or filter.

Out on the wild reefs corals are obviously left to their own devices. A constant battle is fought for dominance and space with individual struggles sometimes lasting for years. Some corals are much more aggressive than others but all seem to find their place.

In the reef aquarium the potential for conflict remains. If the aquarist has done his/her job with research and advice then this potential is reduced. Corals that are unrelated are not permitted to touch and all corals are given expansion space. They are also positioned according to their need for light and seawater flow.

All things being equal the reef aquarium will be beautiful but despite the aquarist’s care troubles could still occur because corals grow, some more quickly than others. This could cause interference with seawater flow or light and action has to be taken to correct this, this usually being a reduction in coral size by careful trimming. The upside of this is that the coral that has been cut will recover and there is another coral, the cut portion, which is now a new coral ready for growth. If there isn’t enough space in the reef aquarium, then another aquarist or a dealer is the answer.

It can be that the problem isn’t to do with overgrowth at all, but coral aggression because of a demand for territory. This could be seen by the aquarist as whitened ends to one coral while a neighbour is seen to be touching. As already stated some corals are more aggressive than others and the weaker usually has the discoloured ends. All coral struggles are not seen like this as for example if two much less aggressive corals are fighting then any discolouration could be completely missing.

The heading photo shows a coral that had grown a bit too large, it’s the leather coral (Sarcophyton sp) at centre a little to the right. The coral had grown out of proportion and was overshadowing others. The answer in a case like this is simple, some sharp scissors and the head was cut off. Enough ‘stalk’ was left attached and in a very short time new polyps were appearing. Just below this coral can be seen very young specimens of the same kind.

The photo above shows mainly green star polyps (Pachyclavularia sp) which spread on a purple mat. They are not considered aggressive and had given way to button polyps (Zoanthid sp), again not considered very aggressive, which had caused the star polyps to recede in a half circle. The button polyps were completely removed from the rock – one remaining can be seen near the left hand side centre of the photo. As a result the star polyps are expanding back onto the cleared rock space.

Sometimes coral expansion can just be too much for the space available or the desire of the aquarist as it ‘misadjusts the picture’. In this case it needs the coral in question reducing in area. The final photo shows a generally bare rock which was inhabited by several mushroom corals (Rhodactis sp). These were removed one by one leaving a smaller colony (not shown) intact. There is one mushroom to be seen which is at the bottom right corner of the photo. These corals were hard to remove because of their ability to retract very quickly, their slimy surface and their incredible regeneration ability – leave a bit in place and hey, another mushroom. On this rock has been ‘planted’ a very small colony of star polyps which it is hoped will cover the rock in time.

So the reef aquarist has much to look out for, not only the quality of seawater and lighting but the actions of the corals themselves. Coral territorial expansion could take place fairly quickly over a period of months or it could be years, so the two words so often used are here again – observation and patience.

Many marine aquarists (or is it most?) run into a problem or two along the way. This could be with equipment though this is generally reliable nowadays. Often the problem is environmental and could be an unwanted invasion.

With my aquarium it was an invasion, or rather two of them. The first was algae (we all recognize and shudder at the possibilities there!) and the second unwanted life.

Except for desirable types of encrusting algae there had never been an algae problem and apart from what follows never has. I first noticed the little green balls here and there and was initially pleased because it was a quite attractive addition. I identified them quite quickly as ‘sailor’s eyeballs’, also known as bubble algae but properly called Ventricaria ventricosa. The green balls, which can vary in colour shade in line with the available light, can grow up to ½” or so in diameter. They could form small cylinders as well as balls. It was quickly learned that they are unwelcome because if they are left to their own devices they could spread very quickly – they eventually burst and spread spores everywhere. One good thing is that they are said to grow in high quality seawater*, so this could be Mother Nature confirming the test kit results. The balls are full of carbon monoxide which is a toxic gas*.

So how was this attack met? It was clear that as the aquarium is a reef it was likely they could never be eradicated completely because of all the nooks and crannies among the rocks. However, the ones that were visible would be destroyed. Remembering that if burst they could spread spores it was decided to burst and siphon them at each routine seawater change. The basic equipment used is about 12” of rigid airline connected to a length of flexible airline, enough to reach from the lowest part of the aquarium to a bucket. Then, before the main seawater change took place, each bubble seen was burst and the pipe kept very near the bubble for a few seconds thus taking out any spores. It takes a bit of practice but eventually is easy.

Constant attacks on the bubbles reduced their numbers and these reduced numbers meant fewer new bubbles, on a down scale as time went on. It’s felt that the bubbles have raised the truce flag and are well under control. As said, they’re still hidden here and there so the conqueror needs to maintain vigilance!

Two invasions were mentioned. The second one was aiptasia. This time it was known that they weren’t welcome and attacks began. With the reef the same problem applied – not all would be seen. The aiptasia, also known as ‘glass anemones’ come into the aquarium with live rock or perhaps more likely with coral rock (which could be called uncured live rock). They present the same problem – one or two fine, but they are likely to multiply rapidly. They shouldn’t be scraped off rocks or squashed etc as this will leave remnants which are quite likely to grow into new anemones. There are one or two natural ways of attacking them.

Natural methods that have been recommended are the introduction of a copperband butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus), or by a peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). Some aquarists have reported success with these but there are others who advised they took little interest in the anemones. There is also the question of suitability to the aquarium type and the fact that the aquarium could be fully stocked. The copperband butterfly is also known to be a gamble as far as feeding is concerned, some seem to eat without problem and yet others could drive the aquarist nuts! Where an introduction is considered to be safe then one or the other could be tried, the fish and shrimp are interesting in their own right. Once introduced a watch needs to be kept for any problem that the fish or shrimp could meet and also that the aiptasia are being dealt with.

If new introductions are not wanted then there is a chemical method that is reliable and safe and this is the route taken in my case. The chemical comes in liquid form and is gently squirted on the central disc of the anemone making sure that circulation pumps are temporarily turned off. The instructions need to be carefully followed of course. The product is named ‘Joes Juice**’. My aquarium is full of soft corals (though there are few fish) and there has never been a bad reaction of any sort to the treatment. The anemones have not been completely eradicated because of the rock formations but are very low in number – sometimes a search finds none at all. If one is seen, no matter how small, it’s attacked. Again this action is taken at routine maintenance time. Once more it seems the white flag has been flown but a watch is still needed for the little devils.

If the seawater is low in nitrate and phosphate then the possible problems are diminished though not removed entirely. The main point is early identification – anything seen that ‘wasn’t there before’ needs investigation and identification. In the case of the above invasions, each problem was dealt with on a fortnightly basis so that only one had to be faced at each weekly routine maintenance job.

Photographs of the offending beasties should have been taken when they were available but weren’t. However it’s easy anyway, just go into Google and type in either Aiptasia or Ventricaria ventricosa, and then click ‘images’ on the left hand side.

(* Ref: Baensch Marine Atlas Vol 1)

(** Aquaristsonline.com has no connection, personal or commercial, with the makers of ‘Joes Juice’)

Sometimes a marine aquarium is broken down as the aquarist no longer wishes to keep one and is to sell it. This is quite sad really but of course there’s more than one reason why this should happen. Sometimes though an aquarium needs to be broken down when the aquarist is still fully interested and doesn’t really wish to carry out such a drastic action.

Breaking an aquarium down means removing all the parts, cleaning and then reassembling them after removing dirt from below the rocks and any sand. As said, it’s a drastic action and causes considerable stress to the aquarium inhabitants and to the aquarist. The aquarium could be a reef type which has been running for years and is beautiful. Why on earth should it be broken down, why not let it continue?

Routine maintenance of an aquarium is accepted as essential. Without it the aquarium display will deteriorate and the inhabitants will eventually start to exhibit signs of stress, a major one being disease. In some aquariums dirt accumulates which cannot be dealt with without disturbing the overall display. We all recognize dirt which gathers in some areas where the seawater flow could be low and it also appears in sand. It also tends to appear beneath rocks. Normally the aquarist siphons it out when doing a routine seawater change and if there is more than one area to be serviced then each one is done in turn. This usually keeps things acceptable.

Unfortunately, there is a situation that could arise where this routine siphoning of dirt eventually is not enough. This is where dirt accumulates at the base of rocks, particularly where the rocks are numerous such as with a reef. The dirt appears there as seawater flow is much reduced. Siphoning cannot reach under the rocks. It becomes worse if there is a decorative sand bed or a deep sand bed (DSB) beneath the rocks. It is not recommended to have either type of sand bed beneath rocks. The reason for this is sand compaction and dirt accumulation. It is recommended that rocks are placed in first and sand applied afterwards if it is required. (Also rocks should never stand on sand as they could well be unstable.)

It is quite easy to avoid dirt appearing beneath the rock structure by building a simple cleansing system into the design. It can be retrofitted of course but this will cause disruption to the display. All that is required is some marine quality flexible and rigid tube, pipe fittings plus some aquarium silicone. The final item is some plastic ‘egg crate’, which is sold in sheets and is made up of joined together fairly small squares.

First of all the base area of the aquarium needs to be measured. The ‘egg crate’ should be sized to, say, 2” smaller than the visible edges, that is 2” away from the viewing glass sides. When this has been achieved, rigid plastic pipe (1/2” or so diameter) should be cut about 1 1/4” long. All the pieces should be of equal length. Enough of these should be cut to support the ‘egg crate’ at about 3 or 4” spacing all along the edges and on the inside. For each 3 ft of aquarium length ensure that there is space to lay across the width of the aquarium a length of rigid pipe. These cut supports should be put in position and filled with silicone, this is to ensure they do not fill up with dirt and also anchors them in position. When the silicone is set, which usually takes around 24 hours, the ‘egg crate’ can be placed on top, this should not be siliconed in place.

Now more rigid plastic pipe is required, again about ½” diameter. This will be used as outlets for seawater that will be pumped under the crate. For each 3 ft of aquarium length cut a piece of pipe 1” shorter than the width of the ‘egg crate’. At about 1 1/2” intervals drill 1/8” holes. There should be a level row of holes on one side of the pipe and on the exact other side and in line should be another row. One end of the pipe should be sealed off completely making sure the plug is firmly in place with silicone. So, for a 3ft length aquarium there should be one pipe, for a 6ft two etc. A 3ft aquarium will have the pipe positioned in the centre and across the width, with the holes positioned to send seawater horizontally across the base of the aquarium in two directions.

The ‘egg crate’ needs to be removed again, and the drilled pipe(s) put in position. Ensure the pipe is firmly in position so that it cannot move using silicone as needed. When the silicone has set connect a flexible pipe to it and run the pipe to the intended position of the pump. Ensure the flexible pipe is securely fixed to the rigid pipe and cannot come loose. Now the ‘egg crate’ can be put back in place, but not glued as rocks will keep it immobile.

If all silicone is cured rocks can be placed on the ‘egg crate’ and once they are stable and acceptable in appearance the aquarium can take seawater. Heaters, circulation pumps and other support equipment can be fitted and turned on as required.

The finishing job is to fit the powerhead which will drive seawater under the rocks through the drilled pipe(s). The location has already been decided and so the procedure is straightforward. The pump needs to be sized of course. A guide for each length of rigid drilled pipe of around 12 to 15” is to allow about 1000 litres per hour. I use a pump of this size and it operates adequately. It is a very good idea to use foam on the intake of the powerhead as this will stop dirt getting to and possibly blocking the rigid pipe outlet holes. This foam should be cleaned under a tap weekly.

The DIY involved in fitting such a plate to support the rocks is very easy and the materials not expensive. The time involved could be as low as a bit more than one day and this is mainly to give time for the silicone to set.

It’s obvious that if a DSB was to be incorporated in the main aquarium then this couldn’t be done. It’s best to have a DSB in a sump anyway. If a shallow decorative sand bed is required this is possible – fit an angled piece of plastic all around the open edges of the ‘egg crate’ to hold the sand back without spillage. The dimensions of the ‘egg crate’ could be adjusted to increase the sand bed width.

I removed a rock and took a not very good photo (above) showing the ‘egg crate’ in my aquarium. The photo at the head of the text shows some of my reef.

Pumping seawater under the rocks into a clear space has advantages. Oxygenated seawater enters the area and this also helps prevent temperature layering. The important advantage is in cleanliness as dirt is caught in the seawater movement and propelled away. My reef aquarium had the system built in from the start over 8 years ago and the bottom is nearly clear. There is a small accumulation of dirt at each end of the base furthest away from the outlet pipe but it’s not a problem. It’s certainly far better than having to break down the aquarium because the dirt problem had become unacceptable.

Like the majority of aquarists I have a schedule for maintaining my aquarium. With the commitments I have and the time available I’ve found that this schedule saves time – usually.

Saving time doesn’t always occur, sometimes, and it is infrequent, something occurs which takes up a lot more time. Not today though, all went well mainly.

My schedule depends on a number. Number one is clean the glass. Wow, that’s it! Number two is the same as one plus the intake filters on some powerheads, plus a routine seawater change. Number three is the same as one. Number four is a comprehensive clean. Included with all of these numbers is a check for any unwanted organisms such as Aiptasia. So as can be seen maintenance covers a four week cycle.

Maintenance is nearly always done on a Sunday as there is time available, in the morning anyway.  It all sounds a bit military maybe, but it works.

The number for today is four, the long one. New seawater ready and waiting, cleaning equipment near the aquarium. The aquarium is surrounded by carpet, so polythene covers are in place. They catch the drips and minor splashes very well.

The very first thing is to clean, with a hard toothbrush, my miniscule algae scrubber. This developed by itself and is obviously doing something as it exists! There must be some level of nutrients in the seawater feeding it. The photo shows it – I did say it is tiny, about 3 inches across and 2 inches deep! The seawater flow is from the hang-on skimmer.

Next the bracing struts and viewing glasses are cleaned with an algae magnet. Only the front and one end viewing glass are done, encrusting algae is permitted to grow on the others.

Exciting stuff this isn’t it! Now the four powerheads which sit in a small compartment are checked. The powerheads driving the under-reef spray bar and anti-phosphate filter have sponge intake filters and these need thorough attention. The anti-phosphate filter is shown in the photo; it is a homemade hang-on type. (Taking the photo was difficult, it is under an open stairway and space is restricted.) The other is an anti-nitrate filter, again homemade but this isn’t in use.

This maintenance is progressing well. The Eheim canister filter is next, the mechanical media has to be checked. This is comprised of fine and medium sponges and it can be surprising how much they catch from what appears to be clean seawater. I have to save numerous very small shrimps as well; these are placed in the display aquarium ensuring the fish don’t get them. There are numbers on the filters – this is from when they were both used for biological purposes so that they could be selected for cleaning, this doesn’t apply now as the biological media has been removed.

Getting there now and it is usually at this point that a cup of coffee appears. Thanks!

Siphoning is next on the agenda but before the main siphon tube is used, I attack any unwanted organisms. Today I located a few Aiptasia and these were dealt with. I’ll have to deal with more as time passes; they are never eliminated, probably because there are so many nooks and crannies in a reef aquarium. As long as they are not left to their own devices for too long they aren’t a problem.

So out come gallons of seawater with the siphon tube, this seawater will be dumped. (I used to use it for brine shrimp production but no longer do so.) At this time any debris spotted on the base of the aquarium is removed. There isn’t much base to be seen but it is checked anyway.

The new seawater is placed on the stairs above the aquarium and my wife kindly makes sure the tube doesn’t come out (not the siphon tube, one that is considerably longer). In goes the seawater.

Not quite done. I manually add certain additives to the seawater, these being calcium, bicarbonate and carbonate powder (for alkalinity) and iodine. Calcium is maintained at around 420ppm and alkalinity at around 4.0meq/L. I don’t measure the iodine level as it is only added once every two weeks at the minimum dose, there has never been a problem.

Nearly time to pack up now, just give the glass bracing struts a clean with a paper towel, likewise the viewing glasses. A check with the hydrometer is required, this is fine at 1024.

Final job – give the fluorescent tubes a wipe. Now it’s all done.

No, not quite. The two fish get some brine shrimp for being so patient!

It is more likely that the reef aquarist will be involved in supplementation, though this is not exclusively so.

In order to achieve a successful marine aquarium of any type seawater quality is very important. Another way of putting it is that for the livestock to thrive the seawater has to meet their needs. Seawater parameters also need to be stable.

The question of salt can be squeezed in here – is this supplementation? Well, perhaps not in the strict sense but anyway… The general practice in the hobby is to measure salt by checking specific gravity (SG) with a hydrometer. The usual range is 1.022 to 1.025 for a fish only system, and 1.024 or 1.025 for a reef. SG has a habit of reducing over time and this is because of salt creep etc. The aquarist no doubt keeps the seawater level topped up with freshwater (preferably reverse osmosis) and checks the SG weekly. If the SG has reduced then it is a simple matter to increase the amount of dry salt that is added for the next routine seawater change.

Some aquarists supplement general minor trace elements. This is done because these trace elements, or some of them, are probably used by livestock and are also removed by protein skimming and activated carbon. Generally, a marine aquarium should not be without a protein skimmer and so this one negative has to be put up with. Similarly there could be a case for the use of activated carbon, though its continuous use is not usually necessary. Supplementing trace elements is a hit and miss affair, the aquarist usually goes by the instructions on the bottle relative to the net gallonage of the system. There doesn’t seem to be any harm done by this, though it generally contravenes the advice ‘Don’t add anything that can’t be tested for’. The aquarist should be aware of the condition of the seawater. A better way of dealing with general trace elements, in my opinion anyway, is to carry out routine seawater changes. The new seawater will contain trace elements and though those lost may not be totally replaced, they will be at least partially and this seems to be sufficient. I have relied on routine seawater changes in this way for years and heavily stocked coral reefs have not suffered.

What is the major supplement used? A fair guess would be calcium particularly with hard coral reefs, as these SPS coral types (SPS = small polyp stony) demand good calcium levels. The usual level maintained for a hard coral reef is from 420ppm (parts per million) to 450ppm, though some aquarists maintain levels as high as 480ppm. Soft coral reefs are fine as low as 400ppm though perhaps 420ppm is better. The aquarist, if testing is regularly done and a note of calcium presence is made, will be able to see the trend. The trend is down and over a period of time the loss can be seen. This enables the aquarist to supplement reasonably accurately. There are two major ways to supplement, the first being the commercially available bottle and the second automation. Which is chosen depends on the calcium demand and the size of the aquarium. In a soft coral aquarium for example, particularly if the aquarium is not large, a commercial application should suffice if routine seawater changes alone don’t. The supplement is added to the seawater in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and in a quantity relevant to the demand. The procedure is very straightforward. The second way is to automate the supplementation by using for example a calcium reactor. This makes the process continuous and probably more favourable as the ‘ups and downs’ in the calcium level are less. Some time has to be spent in very carefully adjusting the seawater drip rate and also ensuring that gas injection is correct. The other requirement is to ensure that the calcium rich media is still present in enough usable quantity.

Whether the calcium addition in manual or automated the need to test is not removed. If the aquarist can see a repetition of the calcium requirement because a notebook has been used to jot down test results over time, then testing can be reduced in frequency¸ but nevertheless still needs to be done.

Another measure that needs to be known particularly with a reef system is alkalinity. Alkalinity is the measure of how much bicarbonate and to a lesser extent carbonate is present in the seawater providing resistance to downward changes in pH. It is sometimes called carbonate hardness or buffer capacity. A complete description of alkalinity will not be gone into, but from the foregoing it can be seen that it is important, the pH of seawater needs to be stable and in the correct range. So the reef aquarist needs to test and note the reading. Again, the trend for alkalinity in an aquarium is downward. Routine seawater changes will assist in the maintenance of the alkalinity level, but supplementation is often also required. Natural seawater has an alkalinity level of around 2.5meq/L. (Don’t worry about the unit measure of alkalinity, test kits give tables and usually conversions to other measures. The unit meq/L is only being used for demonstration. The measure often used otherwise is dKH, and to obtain this simply multiply the meq/L figure by 2.8.) The seas and oceans have vast reserves but in the comparatively diminutive aquarium with a relatively higher bio load it is usual to maintain a higher alkalinity level of between 3 to 4.5meq/L, though 4.0meq/L seems a good measure. Again, if tests have been completed over time and a note made the trend of the aquarium can be seen, permitting the aquarist to know how much needs to be supplemented. Supplementation can be manual using additives that are commercially available, a very straightforward process. Another way is to use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), use about one teaspoonful per 25 gallons of seawater and add to the sump or another area away from corals (mix the powder in some seawater before adding it). If the aquarist uses a two part alkalinity/calcium additive or uses Kalkwasser there could be no need for further alkalinity supplementation. Tests will give the answer.

There are other supplements available, but there is more controversy over these. For example, iodine is said to be particularly beneficial to soft corals and of benefit to all types. Iodine is available commercially and should be added strictly according to the instructions. Only a small amount is needed as required iodine levels are very low. As far as I am aware there isn’t any scientific proof that iodine addition is of any great benefit to the reef livestock, though there are many aquarists who do add it and state that it is of use. With this state of affairs it would seem reasonable to add it, remembering that some will be gained from routine seawater changes. Iodine can be tested for.

Magnesium could be another addition used by the aquarist. Sometimes the dry salt mix itself falls short of the desired level though this is probably uncommon. A check of the level present in the aquarium seawater should be made and a decision based on that.

There are other little bottles that can sometimes be found in aquarium stores, such as molybdenum, bromide, fluoride and vanadium. Sometimes the bottle could contain more than one. Whether there is a real need for supplements of this type is a basis for argument. All I can say is there are many aquarists with lovely successful aquariums that have never used them. Also, routine seawater changes will replace necessary elements at least to an extent.

The main point that needs to be remembered is that ‘magic bottles’ do not bring success, the design and maintenance of the aquarium is the main foundation for this. Maintenance includes testing of the seawater and ensuring that any known necessary elements are present in amounts that are required by the livestock. Overdosing can be very detrimental, so the aquarist has to know the additive quantity actually required without guesswork, which means seawater testing. This testing can be reduced in time if the aquarist keeps a note of test results and aquarium trends can be seen, however testing still needs to be done.

Another point worth mentioning is that if any desired level is found to be markedly deficient supplementing to regain the correct level should not be done quickly. Stability is a requirement already mentioned, so if a larger change is required it should be done slowly in small steps.

‘High quality seawater’ is generally accepted as the number one requirement in any type of marine system. This high quality is sometimes simply interpreted as a lack of nitrates and phosphates which is correct up to a point. Particularly in a reef system, the presence of elements in sufficient amounts to meet the needs of livestock is also important.

At the start of this hobby many aquarists are filled with eagerness and spend a lot of time learning as much as they can about the hobby, what all the equipment does, why water quality is important etc etc and finally they have their very own marine aquarium all set up.

At the start they are very diligent about the maintenance requirements of the aquarium and carefully perform water tests each week, change the water, empty the skimmer, record all the information etc.

However, over time the aquarium becomes an item which appears like it has always been there, the once diligent testing regime starts to slip and the ‘I’ll do it tomorrow’ starts to set in which then might move on to ‘I’ll do it next week’..

That’s the laziness bit which was mentioned in the title.

Slowly, over time the aquarium starts to deteriorate, algae may start to set in, the sand may start to get dirty, the corals do not extend as much and then the aquarists reaches a turning point. At some point the aquarist notices that the aquarium is not looking as good as it used to and either realises that it needs to be put right and starts to care for the aquarium again or gives up the hobby.

Unfortunately this happens a lot.

It is my opinion that when the decision is made to keep a marine aquarium that the required maintenance is understood up front and that it must be adhered to. After all inside the aquarium is life which have a requirement to be cared for. If you owned a dog would you leave it at home all day, never take it for a walk and never wash it – no I didn’t think so.

I appreciate that there are a lot of people who have busy lives which could be one of the reasons why the aquarium hobby fascinated them in the first place however whilst the aquarium is a joy to observe and is exceptionally relaxing the life in the aquarium has a requirement to be cared for.

Fortunately this is only a small minority of people – the majority of aquarists have a passion for aquatic life and gain enjoyment from looking after the aquarium as well as watching it.

Personally I live quite a hectic life and therefore do not have a set day for looking after the aquarium however I do ensure that the maintenance is performed. I perform the maintennace on an evening after Joshua has gone to bed and the ‘better half’ has settled down to watch television for the evening. I ensure that all the water tests are performed, clean the aquarium, empty and clean the skimmer and do a visual check of the aquarium.

Although I ensure that everything is performed on a weekly basis I do not really have a routine.

My father John on the other hand however is exceptionally diligent at maintaining his aquarium. Every Sunday morning without fail he maitains his aquarium and I also believe he has a set regime for what he does and when.

There are times when I laugh about his regime but when you see his aquarium you can see why it works. As said I have seen many aquariums over the years and although I am probably a bit biased his aquarium is the best I have ever seen.

As already mentioned the majority of aquarists are very good in this area and perform the aquarium maintenance required however there are a few that don’t and my message to these people is – why did you take up this hobby in the first place – it is not fair to the life in the aquarium that they are not looked after.

The bottom line in my opinion is that if the aquarium cannot be maintained in a timely manner or time cannot be devoted to it then perhaps the marine aquarium hobby is not the right hobby to start.

Marine aquariums nowadays are generally successful. There are those that fail for one reason or another, sometimes because of a basic error by the aquarist such as an inadequate bio-filter. As said though, most are successful greatly helped by the amount of knowledge gained from experience that is available on the internet and in books. Science can tell us a lot but there is more to it than that – there needs to be integration between technology and Mother Nature. Skill if you like. All the gadgets that are available helps towards this, gadgets such as protein skimmers, calcium reactors, power heads and the like, not to mention the high quality dry salt mixes that are available now and have made such a difference.

In the early days marine aquarists weren’t so lucky, dry salt mixes were not available for a start. Aquarists could look up the suggested mixes and obtain the ingredients, what was produced was a brew very unlike natural seawater, with many parts missing. Protein skimmers and calcium reactors had not been invented, at least not for the fledgling marine hobby, so a lot of ingenuity was required. The actual ongoing seawater mix would be unknown – how for example could calcium be measured by a hobbyist? These early aquarists were the ones who kicked it all off though, maybe for the challenge.

The early aquarists couldn’t dream of keeping corals or shrimps, how they would gape in awe at a modern reef system! They kept fish only aquariums, which were decorated with dead coral and various base coverings. Fish were lost as a regular occurrence and it must have been a mystery and a nightmare. They wouldn’t know the fish were poisoning themselves – no bio-filtration! Longevity of the fish was perhaps assisted by seawater changes? Fish were also lost because of the dreaded ‘white spot’ or ‘velvet’, the parasitic diseases.

Looking for cleanliness which the lack of was thought to be a reason why fish didn’t live long, an invention eventually arrived called the undergravel filter. This was a real milestone as oxygen laden seawater moving through the substrate caused the creation of a bio-filter. The inventor of the undergravel filter, a man called Stratton if memory serves me correctly, didn’t believe that the change was anything to do with bacteria as eventually science advised, but continued to believe it was enhanced cleanliness that increased the health of the fish. He was correct in a way; fouling toxic ammonia and nitrite were being removed.

The next big jump was the arrival of the protein skimmer. A remaining scourge of the aquarist was the fish ‘wipeout’, when all fish were lost for some strange reason. The arrival of protein skimmers, quite crude and not very efficient at first, sorted that out.

So it has gone on until the present day. Now success is the normal outcome for an aquarist. Seawater quality is high, fish are healthy and corals, shrimps and all manner of reef life are being kept in good health.

So we can sit back and just gaze at our fish and/or corals. Certainly we can, and that’s one thing I do particularly after a maintenance period.

A successful aquarium has high seawater quality, good seawater movement and adequate lighting. So the livestock should feel at home. They no doubt do – as do uninvited guests!

The gardener loves the display that has been created, apart from those weeds that keep popping up and spreading if allowed.

The marine aquarium is the same. Now that conditions are so good all manner of pests can arrive, perhaps with live rock or coral rock. Aiptasia (aaagh! I hear the cry!). Sailor’s Eyeballs too. These pests if not controlled will spread alarmingly, as will red flatworms. Some flatworms can also attack corals. Then there are nudibranchs that could be imported on the coral rock that their target prey is on. Not to mention some snails. There are more.

So the modern marine aquarium is becoming more natural to the livestock it holds. Because of this there is greatly increased success in livestock health and longevity. It follows that the captive reef in its modern splendor could become home to unwanted life too.

The problem, if it can be called that, is that the captive reef will never be able to hold the diversity of life that the wild reef can. Some of that diversity of life is predatory, and it predates on the pests that we battle with. There is a balance on the wild reef that we aquarists will not be able to match.

So the aquarist has to become the predator. He or she has to spend a little time attacking the pests so that they don’t get out of control. It can be a pain but, like the gardener, it’s worth it for the sake of everything else.

All that is required is vigilance and that is part of good husbandry anyway. If the pests are kept under control which needs a little extra attention, it is a small price to pay for the rewards.

As time passed a few dry aquarium salt mixes appeared which had been produced commercially. They did contain most of or perhaps the entire major, minor and trace elements. It was discovered that nitrate and phosphate were unwanted as they had become known as nuisance algae nutrients, and the salt manufacturers made a great show of how their particular salt was free of them.

Now there are many commercial aquarium salt mixes available and they all claim to be ‘the best’. The mixes are now very consistent and considerable advances have been made in trying to emulate nature’s own, the seas and oceans. Some aquarists use natural seawater, and there are anecdotal reports that they have met with success, corals being really well extended and fish healthy. Most aquarists use a dry salt mix however, as it is convenient wherever the aquarist lives.

The production of dry salt mixes has moved on as the hobby has. No longer do marine aquarists struggle to maintain their livestock as technology and knowledge have made it easier. Aquariums that would dazzle those pioneer aquarists of long ago now exist – those where some of the most beautiful fish of the wild reefs are kept, and those where a living captive reef is maintained. Proper husbandry and knowledge plus technology make it possible.

The highest priority for any marine aquarium is the quality of the seawater. This is even ahead of lighting for a reef aquarium, the close second. Low quality seawater leads to problems and there isn’t any need for it. Modern sea salt mixes go a long way to providing this quality. The aquarist needs to be aware of the parameters that are required and maintain them, with supplementary additions if and as needed and routine seawater changes.

So all the aquarist needs to do is go to the local fish shop (LFS) or use the internet and buy what is needed. Basically, yes, that’s it – couldn’t be easier. There are a couple of things to bear in mind though.

The first is that which has already been mentioned. It would be unusual for a dry salt mix to be contaminated with phosphate and nitrate nowadays, but nevertheless the aquarist should be happy that it isn’t. Most manufacturers state the fact on the packaging.

Next the type of fresh water that is being used should be considered. Some aquarists use it straight from the tap, and others use RO (reverse osmosis) water. The latter is where the tap water has been passed through a very fine filter – ‘super-filtered’ it could be called. RO is the one that is recommended as it will have fewer impurities.

If the aquarist uses tap water then what perhaps is ‘ordinary’ salt could be used. This is where the mix contains the ‘standard’ amount of calcium, for example. Tap water contains amounts of calcium (which varies according to location) and there isn’t a need to have additional calcium in the dry mix. If RO water is in use then much of the content of the tap water will have been removed and a salt mix with extra calcium could be used to ensure that the level is brought up correctly. Actually, it shouldn’t be a disaster if either salt mix type is used with either fresh water type, tap or filtered tap, but the salt mixes are there so why not use them.

Then there are the mixes, as above, that claim to be suitable for reef use, as they have extra this and that which usually includes calcium. These find favour with many aquarists.

So choosing a dry aquarium salt mix nowadays is straightforward. There are those mixes that are very well known and have been in use for years, and there are more that could be just as good but are less well known. Perhaps selecting the type that a successful aquarist colleague uses is the best route, or one that is highly recommended on the internet and in hobby magazines.