Maybe a friend’s aquarium or some in a dealer’s have been seen and they are so good – good in more than one way, they are relaxing and the aquarium world is very interesting.

A marine aquarium doesn’t build itself of course; they have to be constructed in such a way that the type of aquarium is properly supported. Without this there are going to be problems and that’s not a pleasure. So there’s a general procedure that should be followed.

Are you willing to give the time? This might seem strange as it’s obvious that putting an aquarium together takes time. The construction stage is fine, the enthusiasm of ‘newness’ is there and the potential aquarist is bubbling over in the desire to get on with it. It’s not only in the initial stages that problems could arise however, it’s later on. There’s weekly maintenance that needs to be done month in month out year in year out. It doesn’t seem problematical at first but it can be when enthusiasm has waned somewhat. So starting a marine aquarium should never be an instant decision – the very fact that livestock are present demands consistency.

Have you the space? Normally the largest aquarium that will fit is chosen, this is the natural choice as big is seen as better. It’s true that a large aquarium has the greater initial visual impact but smaller ones can also be very beautiful and interesting as can be found by browsing the internet. The aquarium shouldn’t be too tight a fit as it could be necessary to get round the sides for maintenance. Mentally picture the aquarium in place – could maintenance be reasonably easily accomplished? There needs to be a power outlet close to the aquarium and this should be accessible once the aquarium is in place. Don’t forget that the aquarium is going to have to stand on something so perhaps a cabinet is required? A sump is a good idea so to  avoid any impact on space could one go in the cabinet beneath the aquarium? Consider the construction of the floor – seawater plus rocks plus aquarium equals considerable weight. Will the floor support it?

What type of aquarium will it be? There are three types, fish only, corals only and mixed reef (fish and corals). This choice has an impact on the equipment that is needed, for example corals need special lighting.

How about the cost of purchase for the equipment? This really is important as mistakes could lead to corner cutting – not the way to start! There is the aquarium of course and any sump that will be used. There could be overflow holes required in the aquarium – will this be DIY or done by a dealer? There is the cabinet if required. Consider the amount of sea salt needed for the initial mix, it isn’t cheap. Then there is the necessary electrical equipment such as sufficiently sized heaters, circulation pumps, the return pump from the sump, canister filter(s) or live rock, a correctly sized protein skimmer and lights plus two timers. Then there are the test kits to monitor the seawater condition. A good way to obtain a general guideline of the cost is to make a list of the needed items then price them from sources on the internet, a magazine or a local dealer.

How much will the livestock cost? The local dealer should have various corals and fish which will permit a guideline to be obtained. This will not be accurate as decisions on what types have not been made but at least knowledge of the general cost of various types can be obtained.

How much will it cost to run? Feeding the livestock is not costly. Sea salt is needed for routine weekly partial seawater changes. Test kits will need renewing from time to time. There is the electrical cost which is easy to estimate if a list of required items has been made. These items each have a wattage (W) – add these up. This will come to part of a kilowatt or a number of kilowatts and a part per hour. The cost of a kilowatt (1000 watts) will be known so the daily, weekly etc cost can be determined. For a day just multiply by 24 and so on. Heaters  and lights will not be on all the time so divide the wattage by two for these for estimate purposes.

Is it all too expensive? There’s no need to give up yet. Consider a smaller aquarium. This will reduce the cost of nearly everything. However, new purchase and running estimates need to be considered to be sure, if it is still too expensive or if there is a doubt, don’t start.

Is everything acceptable? Wonderful, the initial stages are complete, the aquarium, cabinet and any sump can be obtained plus other equipment. Some more research will be needed to ensure that the equipment purchased is suitable for the aquarium size and the job it has to do.

Marine aquariums are supposed to be relaxing, the stuff above doesn’t look like it! Marine aquariums are most definitely relaxing – and exciting, and beautiful. That of course is when they’re finished and settled. They won’t be finished and settled if not set up correctly, so they will not be beautiful and definitely not relaxing. The aquarist will face stress because of problems. It isn’t necessary to have every bell and whistle available but the aquarium must have the basic adequate necessities.

There are two important words for marine aquarists and these are research and patience. The above are the first steps which should give a base for success without any unwanted surprises such as the electricity bill. If research into for example stocking has been done and ongoing maintenance is adequate then success has been given an adequate foundation. All the information needed is on this website or other websites, there for the taking.

There are jobs that can take up time with a marine aquarium whether the system is fish only, corals only or mixed reef. Some of these jobs cannot be automated, such as cleaning the algae off the viewing glasses. However there are some straightforward basic  tasks that could be.

Light is essential on all  systems though the type of light (the spectrum) is particularly important on corals only and mixed reefs. Light itself is important on all aquarium types as it provides the rhythm of life – when it goes dark fish find their hide holes and corals could start to close. At the same time night life could appear such as the tiny creatures in the rocks and sand. Light is the first item to automate – most aquarists do but there are those few who turn it on and off manually which is not recommended. First there needs to be a set pattern or rhythm to ‘on’ and ‘off’ periods, livestock need this in the same way that  humans do. The lighting ‘on’ period needs to the same day after day, with corals this is set to the length of time the corals need. All that is needed are electric timers, usually two. Why two? It’s very bad practice to plunge a dark aquarium into bright light or vice versa as this is very unnatural and causes some livestock panic. Fish for example need time to settle and go to their night time abodes where they have security. Daytime doesn’t start with instantaneous sun-up but there is a gradual increase of light. Coral only and mixed reef systems usually (but not always) employ strong white lighting and also blue (actinic) light as the latter is very useful to corals. So if the white light is turned on by one timer the blue can be turned on by another. The blue comes on around 30 minutes before the white and turns off about 30 minutes after. Though not a proper dawn and dusk this is sufficient for the ‘night time is coming’ and ‘wake up now’ needs of livestock. A fish only system could have say two white tubes fitted – it’s simple to fit one additional blue tube which enhances the fish colours as well.

Another job that could be automated is seawater level. Maintaining the correct level is important as this has an impact on salinity. It has to be said that topping up manually each day isn’t usually negative as far as salinity is concerned as the amount of water lost through evaporation in one day shouldn’t have a large impact, nevertheless there is an impact. If an accurate graph were to be drawn of salinity levels over say a week, the up/down fluctuation would be smaller with automated top up than with manual as the automated system applies several smaller top-ups in a day. Though it’s probably correct to assume that most marine aquarists (except perhaps those with fish only systems) run their aquariums open that is without cover glasses, those that have cover glasses will lose less water. If the water top-up is to be automated all that is required is a simple system that can be purchased commercially and which are not particularly expensive. These mostly consist of a float valve (to signal when water is required and when water is at the correct level), a small electric pump (to send replacement water when needed) and a water reservoir. Once set up the aquarist need only ensure the system continues to operate correctly and also keep an adequate supply of fresh water in the reservoir. This supply should really be RO (reverse osmosis) water.

There is an important point that should be made about water in the reservoir and this is it must be fresh water not salt water. When water evaporates from the display aquarium it is fresh – the salt is left behind. Using salt water will mean a slowly increasing salinity level. Salt could be lost but this is usually from salt creep, this is when salt encrustation is seen on wires, glass etc. that are close to the seawater surface.

The final basic automation that could be considered by the aquarist is feeding. Experiments have been done where several feeds a day have been injected into the aquarium so that fish can feed more naturally (as opposed to one or two major feeds each day). There have been successes with a few of these efforts but the system is troublesome. The major problem is keeping the food fresh (the foods used are a mixture of ‘meaty’ substances in small bits plus a little very small flake mixed in). The food is in a reservoir which is stirred continuously to keep the food dispersed so it can be successfully pumped to the aquarium and the pump used for this is a very small specialist pump (called a peristaltic pump) that is able to deliver small programmed doses (on the same principle as medical ones that are used to deliver small precise amounts at given times to patients). These are the first problems, stirring the mixture and ensuring the pump isn’t going to block as the tubes used are narrow. The major problem as already said is keeping the food fresh – these foods can ‘go off’ quite quickly. This was overcome by refrigeration – the food to be used was kept in a very small refrigerator from which it was pumped on demand, usually the pump was not inside with the food but a narrow tube (which is the method of delivery with these pumps) came through the casing.

Any aquarist who is not into general experimentation (which includes most of us) can easily see that the effort and expense is not worth the result. Provided an adequate diet is fed and overfeeding is avoided, feeding once or twice a day doesn’t seem to do any harm to most livestock types, though as always there are exceptions such as small mouthed specialist feeders who often  can’t compete with bolder greedier types. These more timid types are dealt with on an individual basis by the aquarist.

What about other automatic feeders then? These are available commercially and as mechanisms are generally reliable and not overly expensive. They usually clip to the aquarium side near and above the seawater surface. This positioning could be a problem, the fixing needs to be secure. The devices have several partitions so that one meal or more can be delivered per day at pre-set times. Unfortunately, for the devices to deliver the food it must be dry so it doesn’t clog or stick which rules out some marine foods such as frozen and leaves the choice as flake. Flake is placed in the device as desired and is delivered according to the set programme to the seawater surface. The flake has obviously not been pre-soaked so it floats on the surface for a while anyway. It could be that eagle eyed fish will see it and come to the surface to eat. The problem is that some perhaps most of this floating food could disappear over a weir to a sump or down a surface feeding filter intake and the like. These devices are not desirable in another way – they take away the enjoyment of interaction between the aquarist and the livestock. Most importantly, they could remove or reduce the time when the aquarist watches the fish and notes anything that could be a problem.

There are other more advanced devices that could be automated but above are the basic ones which most aquarists could consider. The one for lighting is considered essential. The one for water top-ups is for the aquarist to decide, many find it easy to top up each day though circumstances and aquarium size vary. The one for feeding is easy to consider – the first refrigerated method is more than most aquarists need or are willing to cope with. The second simpler flake feeder devices could be useful, but if to be considered it’s suggested that one is seen in action first on a friend’s system. If impressive enough then consideration needs to be given to security of delivery which depends on individual systems – the food needs to get to the fish and not be gathered up in a sump or filter.

Out on the wild reefs corals are obviously left to their own devices. A constant battle is fought for dominance and space with individual struggles sometimes lasting for years. Some corals are much more aggressive than others but all seem to find their place.

In the reef aquarium the potential for conflict remains. If the aquarist has done his/her job with research and advice then this potential is reduced. Corals that are unrelated are not permitted to touch and all corals are given expansion space. They are also positioned according to their need for light and seawater flow.

All things being equal the reef aquarium will be beautiful but despite the aquarist’s care troubles could still occur because corals grow, some more quickly than others. This could cause interference with seawater flow or light and action has to be taken to correct this, this usually being a reduction in coral size by careful trimming. The upside of this is that the coral that has been cut will recover and there is another coral, the cut portion, which is now a new coral ready for growth. If there isn’t enough space in the reef aquarium, then another aquarist or a dealer is the answer.

It can be that the problem isn’t to do with overgrowth at all, but coral aggression because of a demand for territory. This could be seen by the aquarist as whitened ends to one coral while a neighbour is seen to be touching. As already stated some corals are more aggressive than others and the weaker usually has the discoloured ends. All coral struggles are not seen like this as for example if two much less aggressive corals are fighting then any discolouration could be completely missing.

The heading photo shows a coral that had grown a bit too large, it’s the leather coral (Sarcophyton sp) at centre a little to the right. The coral had grown out of proportion and was overshadowing others. The answer in a case like this is simple, some sharp scissors and the head was cut off. Enough ‘stalk’ was left attached and in a very short time new polyps were appearing. Just below this coral can be seen very young specimens of the same kind.

The photo above shows mainly green star polyps (Pachyclavularia sp) which spread on a purple mat. They are not considered aggressive and had given way to button polyps (Zoanthid sp), again not considered very aggressive, which had caused the star polyps to recede in a half circle. The button polyps were completely removed from the rock – one remaining can be seen near the left hand side centre of the photo. As a result the star polyps are expanding back onto the cleared rock space.

Sometimes coral expansion can just be too much for the space available or the desire of the aquarist as it ‘misadjusts the picture’. In this case it needs the coral in question reducing in area. The final photo shows a generally bare rock which was inhabited by several mushroom corals (Rhodactis sp). These were removed one by one leaving a smaller colony (not shown) intact. There is one mushroom to be seen which is at the bottom right corner of the photo. These corals were hard to remove because of their ability to retract very quickly, their slimy surface and their incredible regeneration ability – leave a bit in place and hey, another mushroom. On this rock has been ‘planted’ a very small colony of star polyps which it is hoped will cover the rock in time.

So the reef aquarist has much to look out for, not only the quality of seawater and lighting but the actions of the corals themselves. Coral territorial expansion could take place fairly quickly over a period of months or it could be years, so the two words so often used are here again – observation and patience.

Many marine aquarists (or is it most?) run into a problem or two along the way. This could be with equipment though this is generally reliable nowadays. Often the problem is environmental and could be an unwanted invasion.

With my aquarium it was an invasion, or rather two of them. The first was algae (we all recognize and shudder at the possibilities there!) and the second unwanted life.

Except for desirable types of encrusting algae there had never been an algae problem and apart from what follows never has. I first noticed the little green balls here and there and was initially pleased because it was a quite attractive addition. I identified them quite quickly as ‘sailor’s eyeballs’, also known as bubble algae but properly called Ventricaria ventricosa. The green balls, which can vary in colour shade in line with the available light, can grow up to ½” or so in diameter. They could form small cylinders as well as balls. It was quickly learned that they are unwelcome because if they are left to their own devices they could spread very quickly – they eventually burst and spread spores everywhere. One good thing is that they are said to grow in high quality seawater*, so this could be Mother Nature confirming the test kit results. The balls are full of carbon monoxide which is a toxic gas*.

So how was this attack met? It was clear that as the aquarium is a reef it was likely they could never be eradicated completely because of all the nooks and crannies among the rocks. However, the ones that were visible would be destroyed. Remembering that if burst they could spread spores it was decided to burst and siphon them at each routine seawater change. The basic equipment used is about 12” of rigid airline connected to a length of flexible airline, enough to reach from the lowest part of the aquarium to a bucket. Then, before the main seawater change took place, each bubble seen was burst and the pipe kept very near the bubble for a few seconds thus taking out any spores. It takes a bit of practice but eventually is easy.

Constant attacks on the bubbles reduced their numbers and these reduced numbers meant fewer new bubbles, on a down scale as time went on. It’s felt that the bubbles have raised the truce flag and are well under control. As said, they’re still hidden here and there so the conqueror needs to maintain vigilance!

Two invasions were mentioned. The second one was aiptasia. This time it was known that they weren’t welcome and attacks began. With the reef the same problem applied – not all would be seen. The aiptasia, also known as ‘glass anemones’ come into the aquarium with live rock or perhaps more likely with coral rock (which could be called uncured live rock). They present the same problem – one or two fine, but they are likely to multiply rapidly. They shouldn’t be scraped off rocks or squashed etc as this will leave remnants which are quite likely to grow into new anemones. There are one or two natural ways of attacking them.

Natural methods that have been recommended are the introduction of a copperband butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus), or by a peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). Some aquarists have reported success with these but there are others who advised they took little interest in the anemones. There is also the question of suitability to the aquarium type and the fact that the aquarium could be fully stocked. The copperband butterfly is also known to be a gamble as far as feeding is concerned, some seem to eat without problem and yet others could drive the aquarist nuts! Where an introduction is considered to be safe then one or the other could be tried, the fish and shrimp are interesting in their own right. Once introduced a watch needs to be kept for any problem that the fish or shrimp could meet and also that the aiptasia are being dealt with.

If new introductions are not wanted then there is a chemical method that is reliable and safe and this is the route taken in my case. The chemical comes in liquid form and is gently squirted on the central disc of the anemone making sure that circulation pumps are temporarily turned off. The instructions need to be carefully followed of course. The product is named ‘Joes Juice**’. My aquarium is full of soft corals (though there are few fish) and there has never been a bad reaction of any sort to the treatment. The anemones have not been completely eradicated because of the rock formations but are very low in number – sometimes a search finds none at all. If one is seen, no matter how small, it’s attacked. Again this action is taken at routine maintenance time. Once more it seems the white flag has been flown but a watch is still needed for the little devils.

If the seawater is low in nitrate and phosphate then the possible problems are diminished though not removed entirely. The main point is early identification – anything seen that ‘wasn’t there before’ needs investigation and identification. In the case of the above invasions, each problem was dealt with on a fortnightly basis so that only one had to be faced at each weekly routine maintenance job.

Photographs of the offending beasties should have been taken when they were available but weren’t. However it’s easy anyway, just go into Google and type in either Aiptasia or Ventricaria ventricosa, and then click ‘images’ on the left hand side.

(* Ref: Baensch Marine Atlas Vol 1)

(** Aquaristsonline.com has no connection, personal or commercial, with the makers of ‘Joes Juice’)

Relating to marine aquariums what is meant by ‘mature’? It means that the aquarium system is ready to support life. In fact there are two levels of maturity: the first is the initial level which is achieved after the system has been set up and the biological filter (some call it life support) has been activated. The second is when the system is truly mature, this is when the livestock is present in entirety and the biological filter has fully settled down to the task it faces, this could take many months. The first level could take many days to weeks.

The two main biological filter systems in use are live rock and canisters, the first being the most desirable. The biological filter is populated by bacteria. The bacteria deal with the toxics which, without them, would appear in seawater tests, these being ammonia and nitrite. Ammonia is produced by fish etc as a natural part of life and the bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and then nitrite to nitrate (depending on the type of filter). In an enclosed system ammonia and nitrite are dangerous and should measure on tests as zero.

It is necessary initially to look at both types of filter separately so let’s start with the canister filter.

The canister filter is an electric pump positioned on a cylinder so that seawater can be moved from the display aquarium through the canister and back to the aquarium. It’s generally best to have the seawater intake at one end of the aquarium and the outlet at the other end, with the returning seawater exiting at the surface (this is to aid with re-oxygenation). As the seawater goes through the canister the bacteria that live on the media carry out the conversion of toxics. When the canister is first set up there aren’t any bacteria present of course. It’s necessary for the aquarist to carefully choose an adequately sized canister then obtain bacteria friendly media (some are better than others) in sufficient quantity. The bacteria have to be introduced to the media and this is best done by the use of commercially available maturation fluid which includes full instructions for use. The procedures are simple and involve regular testing for ammonia and nitrite. The filter is considered mature when readings are zero, indicating that the bacteria are doing their job.

Note that canister filters do not deal with nitrate (because of the presence of oxygen). Some types of media have claimed to be able to deal with nitrate but this ability is usually short lived. To avoid putting undesirable nitrate into the aquarium from the start before livestock are present, put intake/exit tubes into a bucket containing seawater at the required temperature. When tests indicate zero for ammonia and nitrite the filter is ready to support livestock in the display aquarium. The seawater in the bucket should be thrown away. It isn’t necessary to have the filter attached to the aquarium initially: the bacteria are being introduced to the filter media not the aquarium. In the future as the aquarium slowly matures to the second level bacteria could appear elsewhere but it’s the canister media that’s the main home for the hard working bacteria.

Live rock is probably the most used filtration. Not only does it provide the bacteria media, it ‘seascapes’ the aquarium as well. There aren’t any trailing wires or tubes to be seen. All that is required is for the aquarist to purchase sufficient ‘clean’ rock and introduce it to the aquarium making sure that there is good circulation around and, as far as possible, between the rocks. ‘Clean’ (or ‘matured’) rock is that which has been kept for a period by the retailer so that organisms that are dying or dead can be cleared away. These organisms are there because live rock comes from the sea and some of them cannot withstand the stress of transportation. If dying or dead organisms were left they could be a source of ammonia. In addition, there could be undesirable organisms that hopefully will be spotted and removed. If the aquarist is lucky some desirable organisms could survive.

Live rock is able to deal with ammonia, nitrite and in addition, within reason, nitrate (‘within reason’ means there’s a limit). This is because the bacteria require oxygen, those on the surface get it easily and convert ammonia and nitrite but those within the porous rock don’t but still require oxygen – to get it they remove oxygen from nitrate thus breaking the nitrate down.

Ok, so the aquariums set up and there’s a troublesome reading of ammonia or nitrite that shouldn’t be there.

 First of all, with the canister, is the aquarist using that all important requirement patience? The time required for a canister to initially mature varies and the need is to wait until it does. Don’t overdose the maturation fluid thinking that the process will speed up, it won’t. Follow the instructions carefully and stop dosing when indicated, often when the test turns red. What is happening is that the bacteria are building their numbers so that they are able to deal with the toxics present. If the filter media is ok and the pump operating correctly, the bad reading will go, often disappearing in a very short period, sometimes in not many hours. The sequence of readings is usually ammonia, then nitrite, then these clear. Nitrate often appears as the cycle progresses.

If the tests showed zero readings but a bad reading has returned, presumably this is during stocking. Stocking the aquarium starts when the initial maturation point has been reached. Stocking, particularly with fish, much less so with corals (corals present a lower biological load) should be done slowly. After the introduction of two small fish or even just one (in a 50 gallon aquarium) there should be at least a two week period before further fish are introduced, and then just two more, or one if it is larger. The reason is the biological filter has to adapt to the increasing load – if organisms are introduced too quickly the bacteria can’t cope and an undesirable test result is likely. Stop stocking and wait for any bad reading to go keeping an eye on fish already present. If they show signs of discomfort, carry out a partial seawater change. Testing should continue very regularly during the whole stocking period.

If a bad reading appears after full stocking is reached or is being approached and even after waiting it doesn’t disappear, check the canister filter. Is the electric pump working (is seawater coming out of the exit pipe?) They are generally reliable nowadays. Are the inlet and exit tubes properly attached? Is there a blockage preventing correct seawater flow? If no problem is found and the bad reading persists, check the capacity of the canister – manufacturers usually indicate the gallons the canister can deal with. If the canister can’t cope, mature a bigger one (mature the additional media and when ready transfer the media from the smaller canister). Perhaps there is room for more media in the smaller canister. Obtaining the correct size canister is clearly best done at the planning stage.

During maintenance, the bio-media within a canister filter can be cleaned if necessary to maintain seawater flow and general efficiency. The cleaning should be done in warm seawater (the old seawater after a routine change for example). Stir very gently. Never clean in tap water or there will be bad readings on testing!

The aquarist who uses live rock should adhere to the stocking principle outlined above. Some beginning aquarists believe that when live rock is introduced then stocking can go ahead as the rock is fully ready. This is incorrect and could be the reason why a bad reading has appeared.

Live rock is already populated by bacteria, but the adequacy of this population varies. First there are different types of live rock and the amount needed of a particular type should always be checked. Second the rock has to be cleaned as indicated above and in this period the rock lays quietly in seawater without livestock. Therefore there isn’t any ammonia being generated to support the bacteria’s needs and the population could reduce. To counter this, dead organisms could be producing ammonia and it is possible, for a time anyway, that the bacterial count could increase. The clean rock then goes into sale tanks where often it lays without livestock. Again the bacteria population could be decreasing. If the rock lays in a sale tank for a long period the bacteria count could be seriously depleted. It is always worthwhile checking how long since the rock was cleaned. Even with this knowledge the adequacy of the filtration ability of the rock will be unknown, hence the slow stocking.

If a bad reading appears during stocking then stocking any further should be postponed until the reading is correct – in other words until the bacteria can handle the bio-load. If the stocking is nearly complete or fully so and a bad reading appears and does not correct, then it is possible that there is a seawater circulation problem. If a check of the circulation pumps shows no problem then it is probable that the amount of rock is insufficient for the bio-load. Rock as desired should be purchased and introduced and a close watch on seawater test readings maintained. Always ensure that there is adequate seawater circulation when the new rock is introduced and of course that it is stable.

The maximum stocking level relevant to the net gallonage of the display aquarium should never be exceeded.

Generally, with canister and live rock filtration, it’s more likely to meet a problem with a fish only system than a reef one, all things being equal. Why is this? Fish present a higher bio-load to the bacteria than say corals. In a fish only system there are usually many fish for the size of aquarium, and they are all of course fed regularly. In a reef system, as said, the corals present a much lower bio-load and if there are fish present they are often smaller and should be less in number.

It’s not likely that serious problems will appear in a new aquarium system provided the aquarist prepares the system for the bio-load it will contain, that is fish only, a mixed reef system, or corals only. The new aquarist should always display patience, harder to do than might be thought. In a complete system a sudden problem is unlikely if maintenance is properly applied as anything untoward will become apparent in good time, particularly as the aquarist will have gained experience and understand the system thoroughly.

Some would state straightaway that it is and others that it isn’t. Guessing the identity of who belongs to which answer doesn’t take a great deal of thought. The two obvious groups are those who are adamant about ‘leave nature as it is’ and guess who, marine aquarists. Of course there are many others with an opinion on the subject.

Really the whole procedure of equipping and stocking has to be considered – the purchase of suitable equipment for the aquarium then the collection of fish and corals etc from the wild reef, their transportation, the period they are kept in a retail store and finally the delivery to the home aquarium. It’s to be hoped that nowadays prior to delivery to the home aquarium all is well, with good practices safeguarding the well being of the livestock. We all know that this isn’t always the case but things have improved a lot and continue to do so.

So the aquarium then, what alarms some is the size. The aquarium could be a small nano or a very large ten foot but they are all miniscule compared to the reefs. We measure our volumes in cubic feet, the seas and oceans are in cubic miles! How can it not be cruel to place fish etc in such a tiny environment?

Many of us want to be involved with nature. Take gardeners for example, they have flowers, bushes and trees that have come from all around the world. They strive to create for their own and others enjoyment a patch of beauty, be this geometrical or more random. So it is with the marine aquarist, though it is best to omit the word geometrical with aquariums as often the only part this applies to is the aquarium itself.

It is to be hoped that the novice marine aquarist sets out with a determination to ‘get it right’. Even with this the end result is not always as hoped. However, to get it right requires consideration and the only way to be able to effectively consider is with research. This is where the first ‘cruel’ appears, with the failure to research. Research could be by books, the internet or the retailer, though a combination could apply. Retailers need to sell to survive so caution is required. Having introduced the word caution this is the second requirement. Now we have research and caution, a really good base to start building. Research into the aquarium apparatus itself and the type of livestock that are desired and caution with the information obtained – not all is up to date and some is opinion based that is not always supported by general experience.

Failure to complete research into the aquarium apparatus itself is cruel because in the mid to long term the livestock are going to pay for inadequate equipment, possibly or probably by disease and death. This could seem rather black and white but it’s correct nevertheless.

If the aquarium is set up correctly for the type of livestock desired, that is fish only, corals only or mixed reef, then the newcomer is doing well. Why then should this be spoilt by incorrect stocking? It seems very illogical that efforts have been made to provide an adequate aquarium system and then these good initial actions ruined by bad stocking. This is the second ‘cruel’, incorrect stocking. With newcomers it is often caused by impatience, the word that covers so many bad issues with the marine hobby. Putting fish in with corals that the fish will damage, or corals that are incompatible with each other, or fish that will grow too large and/or become too aggressive is cruel and this is the fault of the aquarist as it is his or her decision. I could be a little more generous here and accept that some retailers are at fault by obtaining a sale without reasonable knowledge of the aquarist’s experience or aquarium system, but the prime fault is with the aquarist.

So the aquarist has done well, with research and a good aquarium system. The stocking is complete and that has also been done well. However problems can still arise and generate cruelty. The aquarist still visits retail outlets and bumps into say a fish that is beautiful and not too expensive. A magnet seems to drag the wallet out and the aquarist obtains the fish, unable to resist even after all the patience and planning that has gone before. It could be known that the fish is generally compatible with anything, but the desire and acceptable cost seem to overpower all other thought. This is cruel not only to the fish just obtained but to the livestock already in the aquarium, because the ability of the system to cope is being pushed. In other words, the aquarist is starting to overstock. This could have repercussions on oxygen availability in warmer weather as an example, or cause territorial disputes with otherwise settled fish. Also if the new fish is stressed, added to the stresses it has already endured in travel and a probably crowded retail sales tank, disease could appear. The only reasonable way to avoid this (when adding a fish to an under stocked aquarium) is to quarantine and the majority of aquarists do not. Quarantine is not a 100% sure way but is far better than a direct introduction. The other way is to know absolutely that the retailer has quarantined the fish – properly quarantined that is and not added other fish during the quarantine period. The best way with a fully stocked aquarium is to invoke another marine aquarists’ watchword, ‘discipline’ and not make the purchase in the first place.

Failing to complete routine seawater changes is cruel as the inhabitants are being forced to live in an environment that is reducing in quality. Pollutants build and the eventual result is poor coral displays and reduced fish colouration, if not worse. Apparatus such as the protein skimmer are a great advantage in assisting with the maintenance of quality but do not remove the need for routine changes. Seawater quality is the number one requirement in a marine system.

It goes on…. failure to provide an adequate diet for fish is another. Fish have adapted to their food over a long time and cannot automatically change to another type. Some fish are omnivorous and will take the usual flake and frozen offerings. Often so will other more specialized fish, but their dietary needs will not be properly met causing eventual health problems.

The majority of the corals that are kept require adequate light to prosper. Hopefully the aquarist will have researched and provided adequate lighting in the first place. However, to the human eye some lighting doesn’t seem to reduce much, but it does. Failure to change tubes and/or bulbs at acceptable intervals can have an effect on corals that will not please the aquarist.

Apart from feeding, lighting and routine seawater changes sometimes an aquarist after a fairly lengthy period of owning an aquarium fails to maintain the system properly. This starts by skipping the odd more cumbersome task as it ‘shouldn’t matter I’ll do it later’. This then happens more often and the efficiency of the support system reduces causing trouble in the future which the aquarist doesn’t rectify properly causing more problems……

No doubt there are other examples of cruelty that could apply. There will be those who state that I’m being too harsh and maybe those who agree with the text. It has to be said that even if research, caution, patience and discipline are applied things could still go sideways. However there isn’t any doubt, in my mind anyway that if all the research is done to produce a properly functioning and fully supportive aquarium system which is then properly stocked after more research the aquarist is off to a fine start. If maintenance is then done properly and discipline exerted over the ‘one more fish’ magnet, the aquarist can be sure that he or she is not being cruel. The fish and corals etc could have a long healthy life without natural stresses such as the threat of predation. Who knows, one day if the coral reefs continue to decline the aquarist may be able to contribute a coral or fish to a resource for species protection.

Sometimes a marine aquarium is broken down as the aquarist no longer wishes to keep one and is to sell it. This is quite sad really but of course there’s more than one reason why this should happen. Sometimes though an aquarium needs to be broken down when the aquarist is still fully interested and doesn’t really wish to carry out such a drastic action.

Breaking an aquarium down means removing all the parts, cleaning and then reassembling them after removing dirt from below the rocks and any sand. As said, it’s a drastic action and causes considerable stress to the aquarium inhabitants and to the aquarist. The aquarium could be a reef type which has been running for years and is beautiful. Why on earth should it be broken down, why not let it continue?

Routine maintenance of an aquarium is accepted as essential. Without it the aquarium display will deteriorate and the inhabitants will eventually start to exhibit signs of stress, a major one being disease. In some aquariums dirt accumulates which cannot be dealt with without disturbing the overall display. We all recognize dirt which gathers in some areas where the seawater flow could be low and it also appears in sand. It also tends to appear beneath rocks. Normally the aquarist siphons it out when doing a routine seawater change and if there is more than one area to be serviced then each one is done in turn. This usually keeps things acceptable.

Unfortunately, there is a situation that could arise where this routine siphoning of dirt eventually is not enough. This is where dirt accumulates at the base of rocks, particularly where the rocks are numerous such as with a reef. The dirt appears there as seawater flow is much reduced. Siphoning cannot reach under the rocks. It becomes worse if there is a decorative sand bed or a deep sand bed (DSB) beneath the rocks. It is not recommended to have either type of sand bed beneath rocks. The reason for this is sand compaction and dirt accumulation. It is recommended that rocks are placed in first and sand applied afterwards if it is required. (Also rocks should never stand on sand as they could well be unstable.)

It is quite easy to avoid dirt appearing beneath the rock structure by building a simple cleansing system into the design. It can be retrofitted of course but this will cause disruption to the display. All that is required is some marine quality flexible and rigid tube, pipe fittings plus some aquarium silicone. The final item is some plastic ‘egg crate’, which is sold in sheets and is made up of joined together fairly small squares.

First of all the base area of the aquarium needs to be measured. The ‘egg crate’ should be sized to, say, 2” smaller than the visible edges, that is 2” away from the viewing glass sides. When this has been achieved, rigid plastic pipe (1/2” or so diameter) should be cut about 1 1/4” long. All the pieces should be of equal length. Enough of these should be cut to support the ‘egg crate’ at about 3 or 4” spacing all along the edges and on the inside. For each 3 ft of aquarium length ensure that there is space to lay across the width of the aquarium a length of rigid pipe. These cut supports should be put in position and filled with silicone, this is to ensure they do not fill up with dirt and also anchors them in position. When the silicone is set, which usually takes around 24 hours, the ‘egg crate’ can be placed on top, this should not be siliconed in place.

Now more rigid plastic pipe is required, again about ½” diameter. This will be used as outlets for seawater that will be pumped under the crate. For each 3 ft of aquarium length cut a piece of pipe 1” shorter than the width of the ‘egg crate’. At about 1 1/2” intervals drill 1/8” holes. There should be a level row of holes on one side of the pipe and on the exact other side and in line should be another row. One end of the pipe should be sealed off completely making sure the plug is firmly in place with silicone. So, for a 3ft length aquarium there should be one pipe, for a 6ft two etc. A 3ft aquarium will have the pipe positioned in the centre and across the width, with the holes positioned to send seawater horizontally across the base of the aquarium in two directions.

The ‘egg crate’ needs to be removed again, and the drilled pipe(s) put in position. Ensure the pipe is firmly in position so that it cannot move using silicone as needed. When the silicone has set connect a flexible pipe to it and run the pipe to the intended position of the pump. Ensure the flexible pipe is securely fixed to the rigid pipe and cannot come loose. Now the ‘egg crate’ can be put back in place, but not glued as rocks will keep it immobile.

If all silicone is cured rocks can be placed on the ‘egg crate’ and once they are stable and acceptable in appearance the aquarium can take seawater. Heaters, circulation pumps and other support equipment can be fitted and turned on as required.

The finishing job is to fit the powerhead which will drive seawater under the rocks through the drilled pipe(s). The location has already been decided and so the procedure is straightforward. The pump needs to be sized of course. A guide for each length of rigid drilled pipe of around 12 to 15” is to allow about 1000 litres per hour. I use a pump of this size and it operates adequately. It is a very good idea to use foam on the intake of the powerhead as this will stop dirt getting to and possibly blocking the rigid pipe outlet holes. This foam should be cleaned under a tap weekly.

The DIY involved in fitting such a plate to support the rocks is very easy and the materials not expensive. The time involved could be as low as a bit more than one day and this is mainly to give time for the silicone to set.

It’s obvious that if a DSB was to be incorporated in the main aquarium then this couldn’t be done. It’s best to have a DSB in a sump anyway. If a shallow decorative sand bed is required this is possible – fit an angled piece of plastic all around the open edges of the ‘egg crate’ to hold the sand back without spillage. The dimensions of the ‘egg crate’ could be adjusted to increase the sand bed width.

I removed a rock and took a not very good photo (above) showing the ‘egg crate’ in my aquarium. The photo at the head of the text shows some of my reef.

Pumping seawater under the rocks into a clear space has advantages. Oxygenated seawater enters the area and this also helps prevent temperature layering. The important advantage is in cleanliness as dirt is caught in the seawater movement and propelled away. My reef aquarium had the system built in from the start over 8 years ago and the bottom is nearly clear. There is a small accumulation of dirt at each end of the base furthest away from the outlet pipe but it’s not a problem. It’s certainly far better than having to break down the aquarium because the dirt problem had become unacceptable.

Over and over the importance of seawater quality is emphasized. Seawater quality is the number one requirement for the marine aquarium, be this fish only, coral only or mixed reef. Most corals demand light for health and growth, nevertheless seawater quality is still the number one need.

Guidelines are useful for those who are not experienced in the marine hobby, including those who are setting up an aquarium for the first time as they can help towards purchasing the correct equipment such as pumps. They are also useful for those who feel their aquarium is not as it should be, perhaps fish are not as colourful as expected and corals slow to extend and show polyps. There are several reasons why this could be so but the first place to examine is the seawater.

Even if the seawater was at the correct parameters when first used, as soon as it enters the aquarium where there are life forms it begins to deteriorate. This needs to be counteracted by routine seawater changes of the correct amount and at the correct intervals.

As far as the guidelines are concerned, this is just what they are – guidelines not absolutes. The requirement is quality and stability. The guidelines give a starting point and it is up to the aquarist to carry out tests and know the trends of his/her aquarium. The use of a notebook to jot down the results of various tests is recommended, it takes very little time. The notes will indicate the need for supplementation for example, and at what period and amount. Another example is that notes will indicate the effectiveness of routine seawater changing – is nitrate increasing, stable, or perhaps decreasing? Should the amount of seawater changed be increased etc? Once the aquarist has gained experience then the guidelines can be amended if necessary, but always with caution.

Experienced aquarists could run their aquariums at levels clearly different from the guidelines. This could be for various reasons, such as a low SG (specific gravity) to combat certain fish problems. When any particular action is contemplated, always consider the potential impact it could have on other livestock types in the aquarium before proceeding. Research of livestock requirements is always worthwhile.

General guidelines are given for fish only and reef aquariums.

Temperature: Fish only and reef, between 75 and 80degF. As temperature increases oxygen decreases. It could be best to choose a ‘middle’ temperature of 77degF. Some experienced aquarists use a temperature a little over 80degF as this increases the metabolism of the entire aquarium population – again, caution is required.

SG (Specific Gravity): Fish Only, often from 1.020 to 1.022 though it can be higher (and should be if corals are present). There is some suggestion that certain unwanted parasites that afflict fish fare less well at a lower SG.

                                      Reef: normally 1.024 to 1.026.

pH (Potential of Hydrogen). Fish Only and Reef: between 8.0 and 8.4. A pH of 8.3 is often quoted as the ideal reading, and this is generally so, but other readings are acceptable with stability.

Alkalinity: Fish Only, seldom measured unless pH is a serious problem.

                    Reef, between 8 and 12 dKH.

Ammonia: Fish Only and Reef, nil.

Nitrite: Fish Only and Reef, nil.

Nitrate: Fish Only, below 30ppm but always as low as possible.

                Reef: below 10ppm but always as low as possible.

Phosphate: Fish Only, seldom measured unless algae is a serious problem.

                      Reef, undetectable.

Calcium: Fish Only, seldom measured.

                 Reef, Soft Corals – around 375/400ppm. Hard corals – around 450ppm or a little higher. Calcium also assists other life forms such as snails.

Routine Seawater Changes: Fish Only and Reef, 10% of the net gallonage of the aquarium (including sump if there is one) carried out weekly. Even if parameters remain healthy it is recommended that seawater changes continue, though this could be at a reduced level if applied with caution. Remember that seawater changes ‘freshen’ the aquarium and replace trace elements at least partially.

Seawater Movement: Fish Only, around 10 times the net gallonage of the aquarium (excluding any sump).

                                          Reef, Soft Corals – the same as fish only. Hard Corals, around 20 (or a little more) times the net gallonage of the aquarium (excluding any sump).

The guidelines given do not include items such as Iodine, Strontium and Magnesium which mainly apply to reef systems, particularly those stocked with hard corals. With some of these there is argument over how beneficial they could be. For basic purposes such inclusions generally confuse matters.

If the aquarist maintains basically high quality seawater and applies other necessities correctly, for example lighting and seawater movement the aquarium display should be beautiful. Additional considerations, if any, arise as experience grows and the trends and needs of the aquarium become known.

As has been repeated so many times before, seawater quality is the number one requirement for a successful marine aquarium. Having said that, is there any variation on the change regime?

For a new marine aqurium the guideline amount to change is 10% of the net gallonage weekly. A new aquarium needs time to settle down, or to put it a better way, to stabilize. This period can vary and during this time there is a requirement to carefully monitor conditions by testing.

Marine systems don’t follow one format, they can have different equipment fitted and different inhabitants. This is the heart of the matter really, the type of aquarium.

Let’s go back a bit though. As said, there is an initial guideline of 10% for seawater changing. This should be adhered to in the early days of the aquarium and at the same time seawater quality testing should occur. This testing at its base should include specific gravity (SG), temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. What is being watched for is reasonable stability and acceptable levels of toxics. Once the system is initially mature, that is ammonia and nitrite have disappeared, nitrate will usually make an appearance as the end product of ammonia/nitrite conversion (this doesn’t always occur but that will not be gone into here). Nitrate needs to be kept low in any system, but the guidelines are for a reef less than 10 ppm (parts per million) and fish only less than 30ppm, though the latter should be as low as is possible as well.

Seawater changing should continue until there is an indication of the rate of rise in nitrate. It is very good practice to jot down in a notebook the nitrate level at each test, in this way eventually the rate of rise can be predicted.

Once the aquarist has knowledge of the nitrate trends then consideration can be given to seawater changes. If the nitrate contiunues to rise but more slowly, then an increase in the amount of the seawater change can be considered (and also a check made of the feeding regime, to avoid overfeeding). If the nitrate has not increased but is stable at an acceptable level, then the change amount is seemingly adequate. If there isn’t a nitrate presence, then it is possible to reduce the seawater change amount. However, in this case take into consideration the fact that a change not only controls the nitrate, which is used as an indicator, but also replenishes to a fair extent trace elements, and others such as calcium. It could be best to continue at the guideline amount.

There are mainly three kinds of saltwater aquarium systems: the fish only system, the mixed reef (fish and corals) system, and the corals only system. At a guess the most popular is probably the mixed reef, followed by fish only then corals only. Should the seawater change be the same for all three?

It is generally thought that the heaviest nitrate probability is with the fish only system. This is because these have the greatest number and/or size of fish present, and fish require feeding more. It follows that the mixed reef is the next in line for nitrate, followed by the corals only system.

The same guideline applies to them all, 10%. It is likely that this will be excessive or adequate for a coral only system, with that possibility reducing for a mixed reef and much reduced for a fish only. Again, the same action can be taken in response to ongoing test results.

So it is clear that there isn’t a rule for seawater changing. The guideline of 10% is for the early months as the aquarium matures and trends are discovered. Following this, the aquarist can make a reasonable determination on ongoing action.

Routine seawater changing should not be abandoned or over extended even though tests indicate it could be. Seawater changing is of great benefit to the health and vitality of the inhabitants. There may be equipment fitted such as a protein skimmer, but such equipment is an aid to seawater quality and not a guarantee of it.

Seawater quality is maintained by routine changes of sufficient quantity, and at the same time tests are completed to ensure that the required standards are met. These tests include specific gravity (SG), pH, nitrate and for a reef could include calcium and similar. Some aquarists continue to test for ammonia and nitrite after the initial maturing process. Alkalinity is a test that is useful to marine systems too.

It would seem fair to think that Mother Nature would know best in these matters and the alkalinity level in the wild is 7 to 9 KH*. So perhaps we should keep out aquarium seawater at the same level.

We could maintain a natural level and hopefully all things being equal there wouldn’t be any problems. However, we are not talking of the vastness of the seas and oceans where seawater quantity is measured in cubic miles; we are talking about aquariums where even a large home system of 500 gallons is, by comparison, very tiny.

Most aquariums are fully stocked whatever system they are. The life in the aquarium puts pressure on the seawater in several ways and one of them is the acid/alkalinity balance. We know this measure as it uses the pH scale, and we want a pH of between 8.0 and 8.4 which is on the alkaline side. The life functions in the aquarium constantly try to reduce this pH towards the acid side, something we do not want.

Prevention of the reduction in pH is achieved by the ‘buffering’ capacity of the seawater, in other words its ability to resist changes caused by acidic substances. The ‘buffer’ is mainly the carbonate/bicarbonate content of the seawater. In certain circumstances the buffer could be seriously weakened or even exhaust and the pH would fall which is detrimental to the livestock.

Dry seawater salt as purchased by most aquarists for seawater make-up has a buffering capacity usually around natural levels. However, many aquarists boost the buffering capacity of their seawater by adding carbonate/bicarbonate powders. These powders are usually mixed in some seawater before being added to the aquarium, being careful not to hit corals etc. The powders are sold commercially and are very easy to use.

In an aquarium it is considered best to maintain alkalinity from 8 to 14 KH.* It is not recommended to raise the level above 14 KH.* The recommended level of 8 to 14 KH does not mean the level can vary within these limits, it should be reasonably stable at the chosen point, ‘reasonably’ meaning that some variation over say a week will not usually be harmful. My system runs at 10 KH and needs boosting to an extent weekly.

If the aquarist measures the alkalinity of a fully stocked system on a weekly basis and keeps a note, then the trend of the aquarium can be seen. The amount of buffer that needs to be added is easily prepared week to week. Testing can be reduced once this requirement has been discovered but should not be abandoned.

If pH is a problem and it is falling despite routine seawater changes and good husbandry in feeding etc, then perhaps the buffer capacity needs attention. Increasing the buffer by 1 KH week to week will not do harm. I have found a good alkalinity level is also beneficial to the growth of welcome encrusting algae which can beautify the aquarium.

By the way, if the desire is to measure alkalinity by mg/l, then multiply KH by 17.9.

(*Reference: Marine Atlas. Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch)