Is Keeping An Aquarium Cruel?

Some would state straightaway that it is and others that it isn’t. Guessing the identity of who belongs to which answer doesn’t take a great deal of thought. The two obvious groups are those who are adamant about ‘leave nature as it is’ and guess who, marine aquarists. Of course there are many others with an opinion on the subject.

Really the whole procedure of equipping and stocking has to be considered – the purchase of suitable equipment for the aquarium then the collection of fish and corals etc from the wild reef, their transportation, the period they are kept in a retail store and finally the delivery to the home aquarium. It’s to be hoped that nowadays prior to delivery to the home aquarium all is well, with good practices safeguarding the well being of the livestock. We all know that this isn’t always the case but things have improved a lot and continue to do so.

So the aquarium then, what alarms some is the size. The aquarium could be a small nano or a very large ten foot but they are all miniscule compared to the reefs. We measure our volumes in cubic feet, the seas and oceans are in cubic miles! How can it not be cruel to place fish etc in such a tiny environment?

Many of us want to be involved with nature. Take gardeners for example, they have flowers, bushes and trees that have come from all around the world. They strive to create for their own and others enjoyment a patch of beauty, be this geometrical or more random. So it is with the marine aquarist, though it is best to omit the word geometrical with aquariums as often the only part this applies to is the aquarium itself.

It is to be hoped that the novice marine aquarist sets out with a determination to ‘get it right’. Even with this the end result is not always as hoped. However, to get it right requires consideration and the only way to be able to effectively consider is with research. This is where the first ‘cruel’ appears, with the failure to research. Research could be by books, the internet or the retailer, though a combination could apply. Retailers need to sell to survive so caution is required. Having introduced the word caution this is the second requirement. Now we have research and caution, a really good base to start building. Research into the aquarium apparatus itself and the type of livestock that are desired and caution with the information obtained – not all is up to date and some is opinion based that is not always supported by general experience.

Failure to complete research into the aquarium apparatus itself is cruel because in the mid to long term the livestock are going to pay for inadequate equipment, possibly or probably by disease and death. This could seem rather black and white but it’s correct nevertheless.

If the aquarium is set up correctly for the type of livestock desired, that is fish only, corals only or mixed reef, then the newcomer is doing well. Why then should this be spoilt by incorrect stocking? It seems very illogical that efforts have been made to provide an adequate aquarium system and then these good initial actions ruined by bad stocking. This is the second ‘cruel’, incorrect stocking. With newcomers it is often caused by impatience, the word that covers so many bad issues with the marine hobby. Putting fish in with corals that the fish will damage, or corals that are incompatible with each other, or fish that will grow too large and/or become too aggressive is cruel and this is the fault of the aquarist as it is his or her decision. I could be a little more generous here and accept that some retailers are at fault by obtaining a sale without reasonable knowledge of the aquarist’s experience or aquarium system, but the prime fault is with the aquarist.

So the aquarist has done well, with research and a good aquarium system. The stocking is complete and that has also been done well. However problems can still arise and generate cruelty. The aquarist still visits retail outlets and bumps into say a fish that is beautiful and not too expensive. A magnet seems to drag the wallet out and the aquarist obtains the fish, unable to resist even after all the patience and planning that has gone before. It could be known that the fish is generally compatible with anything, but the desire and acceptable cost seem to overpower all other thought. This is cruel not only to the fish just obtained but to the livestock already in the aquarium, because the ability of the system to cope is being pushed. In other words, the aquarist is starting to overstock. This could have repercussions on oxygen availability in warmer weather as an example, or cause territorial disputes with otherwise settled fish. Also if the new fish is stressed, added to the stresses it has already endured in travel and a probably crowded retail sales tank, disease could appear. The only reasonable way to avoid this (when adding a fish to an under stocked aquarium) is to quarantine and the majority of aquarists do not. Quarantine is not a 100% sure way but is far better than a direct introduction. The other way is to know absolutely that the retailer has quarantined the fish – properly quarantined that is and not added other fish during the quarantine period. The best way with a fully stocked aquarium is to invoke another marine aquarists’ watchword, ‘discipline’ and not make the purchase in the first place.

Failing to complete routine seawater changes is cruel as the inhabitants are being forced to live in an environment that is reducing in quality. Pollutants build and the eventual result is poor coral displays and reduced fish colouration, if not worse. Apparatus such as the protein skimmer are a great advantage in assisting with the maintenance of quality but do not remove the need for routine changes. Seawater quality is the number one requirement in a marine system.

It goes on…. failure to provide an adequate diet for fish is another. Fish have adapted to their food over a long time and cannot automatically change to another type. Some fish are omnivorous and will take the usual flake and frozen offerings. Often so will other more specialized fish, but their dietary needs will not be properly met causing eventual health problems.

The majority of the corals that are kept require adequate light to prosper. Hopefully the aquarist will have researched and provided adequate lighting in the first place. However, to the human eye some lighting doesn’t seem to reduce much, but it does. Failure to change tubes and/or bulbs at acceptable intervals can have an effect on corals that will not please the aquarist.

Apart from feeding, lighting and routine seawater changes sometimes an aquarist after a fairly lengthy period of owning an aquarium fails to maintain the system properly. This starts by skipping the odd more cumbersome task as it ‘shouldn’t matter I’ll do it later’. This then happens more often and the efficiency of the support system reduces causing trouble in the future which the aquarist doesn’t rectify properly causing more problems……

No doubt there are other examples of cruelty that could apply. There will be those who state that I’m being too harsh and maybe those who agree with the text. It has to be said that even if research, caution, patience and discipline are applied things could still go sideways. However there isn’t any doubt, in my mind anyway that if all the research is done to produce a properly functioning and fully supportive aquarium system which is then properly stocked after more research the aquarist is off to a fine start. If maintenance is then done properly and discipline exerted over the ‘one more fish’ magnet, the aquarist can be sure that he or she is not being cruel. The fish and corals etc could have a long healthy life without natural stresses such as the threat of predation. Who knows, one day if the coral reefs continue to decline the aquarist may be able to contribute a coral or fish to a resource for species protection.

Keep It Clean

Sometimes a marine aquarium is broken down as the aquarist no longer wishes to keep one and is to sell it. This is quite sad really but of course there’s more than one reason why this should happen. Sometimes though an aquarium needs to be broken down when the aquarist is still fully interested and doesn’t really wish to carry out such a drastic action.

Breaking an aquarium down means removing all the parts, cleaning and then reassembling them after removing dirt from below the rocks and any sand. As said, it’s a drastic action and causes considerable stress to the aquarium inhabitants and to the aquarist. The aquarium could be a reef type which has been running for years and is beautiful. Why on earth should it be broken down, why not let it continue?

Routine maintenance of an aquarium is accepted as essential. Without it the aquarium display will deteriorate and the inhabitants will eventually start to exhibit signs of stress, a major one being disease. In some aquariums dirt accumulates which cannot be dealt with without disturbing the overall display. We all recognize dirt which gathers in some areas where the seawater flow could be low and it also appears in sand. It also tends to appear beneath rocks. Normally the aquarist siphons it out when doing a routine seawater change and if there is more than one area to be serviced then each one is done in turn. This usually keeps things acceptable.

Unfortunately, there is a situation that could arise where this routine siphoning of dirt eventually is not enough. This is where dirt accumulates at the base of rocks, particularly where the rocks are numerous such as with a reef. The dirt appears there as seawater flow is much reduced. Siphoning cannot reach under the rocks. It becomes worse if there is a decorative sand bed or a deep sand bed (DSB) beneath the rocks. It is not recommended to have either type of sand bed beneath rocks. The reason for this is sand compaction and dirt accumulation. It is recommended that rocks are placed in first and sand applied afterwards if it is required. (Also rocks should never stand on sand as they could well be unstable.)

It is quite easy to avoid dirt appearing beneath the rock structure by building a simple cleansing system into the design. It can be retrofitted of course but this will cause disruption to the display. All that is required is some marine quality flexible and rigid tube, pipe fittings plus some aquarium silicone. The final item is some plastic ‘egg crate’, which is sold in sheets and is made up of joined together fairly small squares.

First of all the base area of the aquarium needs to be measured. The ‘egg crate’ should be sized to, say, 2” smaller than the visible edges, that is 2” away from the viewing glass sides. When this has been achieved, rigid plastic pipe (1/2” or so diameter) should be cut about 1 1/4” long. All the pieces should be of equal length. Enough of these should be cut to support the ‘egg crate’ at about 3 or 4” spacing all along the edges and on the inside. For each 3 ft of aquarium length ensure that there is space to lay across the width of the aquarium a length of rigid pipe. These cut supports should be put in position and filled with silicone, this is to ensure they do not fill up with dirt and also anchors them in position. When the silicone is set, which usually takes around 24 hours, the ‘egg crate’ can be placed on top, this should not be siliconed in place.

Now more rigid plastic pipe is required, again about ½” diameter. This will be used as outlets for seawater that will be pumped under the crate. For each 3 ft of aquarium length cut a piece of pipe 1” shorter than the width of the ‘egg crate’. At about 1 1/2” intervals drill 1/8” holes. There should be a level row of holes on one side of the pipe and on the exact other side and in line should be another row. One end of the pipe should be sealed off completely making sure the plug is firmly in place with silicone. So, for a 3ft length aquarium there should be one pipe, for a 6ft two etc. A 3ft aquarium will have the pipe positioned in the centre and across the width, with the holes positioned to send seawater horizontally across the base of the aquarium in two directions.

The ‘egg crate’ needs to be removed again, and the drilled pipe(s) put in position. Ensure the pipe is firmly in position so that it cannot move using silicone as needed. When the silicone has set connect a flexible pipe to it and run the pipe to the intended position of the pump. Ensure the flexible pipe is securely fixed to the rigid pipe and cannot come loose. Now the ‘egg crate’ can be put back in place, but not glued as rocks will keep it immobile.

If all silicone is cured rocks can be placed on the ‘egg crate’ and once they are stable and acceptable in appearance the aquarium can take seawater. Heaters, circulation pumps and other support equipment can be fitted and turned on as required.

The finishing job is to fit the powerhead which will drive seawater under the rocks through the drilled pipe(s). The location has already been decided and so the procedure is straightforward. The pump needs to be sized of course. A guide for each length of rigid drilled pipe of around 12 to 15” is to allow about 1000 litres per hour. I use a pump of this size and it operates adequately. It is a very good idea to use foam on the intake of the powerhead as this will stop dirt getting to and possibly blocking the rigid pipe outlet holes. This foam should be cleaned under a tap weekly.

The DIY involved in fitting such a plate to support the rocks is very easy and the materials not expensive. The time involved could be as low as a bit more than one day and this is mainly to give time for the silicone to set.

It’s obvious that if a DSB was to be incorporated in the main aquarium then this couldn’t be done. It’s best to have a DSB in a sump anyway. If a shallow decorative sand bed is required this is possible – fit an angled piece of plastic all around the open edges of the ‘egg crate’ to hold the sand back without spillage. The dimensions of the ‘egg crate’ could be adjusted to increase the sand bed width.

I removed a rock and took a not very good photo (above) showing the ‘egg crate’ in my aquarium. The photo at the head of the text shows some of my reef.

Pumping seawater under the rocks into a clear space has advantages. Oxygenated seawater enters the area and this also helps prevent temperature layering. The important advantage is in cleanliness as dirt is caught in the seawater movement and propelled away. My reef aquarium had the system built in from the start over 8 years ago and the bottom is nearly clear. There is a small accumulation of dirt at each end of the base furthest away from the outlet pipe but it’s not a problem. It’s certainly far better than having to break down the aquarium because the dirt problem had become unacceptable.

Seawater Parameter Guidelines

Over and over the importance of seawater quality is emphasized. Seawater quality is the number one requirement for the marine aquarium, be this fish only, coral only or mixed reef. Most corals demand light for health and growth, nevertheless seawater quality is still the number one need.

Guidelines are useful for those who are not experienced in the marine hobby, including those who are setting up an aquarium for the first time as they can help towards purchasing the correct equipment such as pumps. They are also useful for those who feel their aquarium is not as it should be, perhaps fish are not as colourful as expected and corals slow to extend and show polyps. There are several reasons why this could be so but the first place to examine is the seawater.

Even if the seawater was at the correct parameters when first used, as soon as it enters the aquarium where there are life forms it begins to deteriorate. This needs to be counteracted by routine seawater changes of the correct amount and at the correct intervals.

As far as the guidelines are concerned, this is just what they are – guidelines not absolutes. The requirement is quality and stability. The guidelines give a starting point and it is up to the aquarist to carry out tests and know the trends of his/her aquarium. The use of a notebook to jot down the results of various tests is recommended, it takes very little time. The notes will indicate the need for supplementation for example, and at what period and amount. Another example is that notes will indicate the effectiveness of routine seawater changing – is nitrate increasing, stable, or perhaps decreasing? Should the amount of seawater changed be increased etc? Once the aquarist has gained experience then the guidelines can be amended if necessary, but always with caution.

Experienced aquarists could run their aquariums at levels clearly different from the guidelines. This could be for various reasons, such as a low SG (specific gravity) to combat certain fish problems. When any particular action is contemplated, always consider the potential impact it could have on other livestock types in the aquarium before proceeding. Research of livestock requirements is always worthwhile.

General guidelines are given for fish only and reef aquariums.

Temperature: Fish only and reef, between 75 and 80degF. As temperature increases oxygen decreases. It could be best to choose a ‘middle’ temperature of 77degF. Some experienced aquarists use a temperature a little over 80degF as this increases the metabolism of the entire aquarium population – again, caution is required.

SG (Specific Gravity): Fish Only, often from 1.020 to 1.022 though it can be higher (and should be if corals are present). There is some suggestion that certain unwanted parasites that afflict fish fare less well at a lower SG.

                                      Reef: normally 1.024 to 1.026.

pH (Potential of Hydrogen). Fish Only and Reef: between 8.0 and 8.4. A pH of 8.3 is often quoted as the ideal reading, and this is generally so, but other readings are acceptable with stability.

Alkalinity: Fish Only, seldom measured unless pH is a serious problem.

                    Reef, between 8 and 12 dKH.

Ammonia: Fish Only and Reef, nil.

Nitrite: Fish Only and Reef, nil.

Nitrate: Fish Only, below 30ppm but always as low as possible.

                Reef: below 10ppm but always as low as possible.

Phosphate: Fish Only, seldom measured unless algae is a serious problem.

                      Reef, undetectable.

Calcium: Fish Only, seldom measured.

                 Reef, Soft Corals – around 375/400ppm. Hard corals – around 450ppm or a little higher. Calcium also assists other life forms such as snails.

Routine Seawater Changes: Fish Only and Reef, 10% of the net gallonage of the aquarium (including sump if there is one) carried out weekly. Even if parameters remain healthy it is recommended that seawater changes continue, though this could be at a reduced level if applied with caution. Remember that seawater changes ‘freshen’ the aquarium and replace trace elements at least partially.

Seawater Movement: Fish Only, around 10 times the net gallonage of the aquarium (excluding any sump).

                                          Reef, Soft Corals – the same as fish only. Hard Corals, around 20 (or a little more) times the net gallonage of the aquarium (excluding any sump).

The guidelines given do not include items such as Iodine, Strontium and Magnesium which mainly apply to reef systems, particularly those stocked with hard corals. With some of these there is argument over how beneficial they could be. For basic purposes such inclusions generally confuse matters.

If the aquarist maintains basically high quality seawater and applies other necessities correctly, for example lighting and seawater movement the aquarium display should be beautiful. Additional considerations, if any, arise as experience grows and the trends and needs of the aquarium become known.

Seawater Changing – Always The Same?

 

As has been repeated so many times before, seawater quality is the number one requirement for a successful marine aquarium. Having said that, is there any variation on the change regime?

For a new marine aqurium the guideline amount to change is 10% of the net gallonage weekly. A new aquarium needs time to settle down, or to put it a better way, to stabilize. This period can vary and during this time there is a requirement to carefully monitor conditions by testing.

Marine systems don’t follow one format, they can have different equipment fitted and different inhabitants. This is the heart of the matter really, the type of aquarium.

Let’s go back a bit though. As said, there is an initial guideline of 10% for seawater changing. This should be adhered to in the early days of the aquarium and at the same time seawater quality testing should occur. This testing at its base should include specific gravity (SG), temperature, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. What is being watched for is reasonable stability and acceptable levels of toxics. Once the system is initially mature, that is ammonia and nitrite have disappeared, nitrate will usually make an appearance as the end product of ammonia/nitrite conversion (this doesn’t always occur but that will not be gone into here). Nitrate needs to be kept low in any system, but the guidelines are for a reef less than 10 ppm (parts per million) and fish only less than 30ppm, though the latter should be as low as is possible as well.

Seawater changing should continue until there is an indication of the rate of rise in nitrate. It is very good practice to jot down in a notebook the nitrate level at each test, in this way eventually the rate of rise can be predicted.

Once the aquarist has knowledge of the nitrate trends then consideration can be given to seawater changes. If the nitrate contiunues to rise but more slowly, then an increase in the amount of the seawater change can be considered (and also a check made of the feeding regime, to avoid overfeeding). If the nitrate has not increased but is stable at an acceptable level, then the change amount is seemingly adequate. If there isn’t a nitrate presence, then it is possible to reduce the seawater change amount. However, in this case take into consideration the fact that a change not only controls the nitrate, which is used as an indicator, but also replenishes to a fair extent trace elements, and others such as calcium. It could be best to continue at the guideline amount.

There are mainly three kinds of saltwater aquarium systems: the fish only system, the mixed reef (fish and corals) system, and the corals only system. At a guess the most popular is probably the mixed reef, followed by fish only then corals only. Should the seawater change be the same for all three?

It is generally thought that the heaviest nitrate probability is with the fish only system. This is because these have the greatest number and/or size of fish present, and fish require feeding more. It follows that the mixed reef is the next in line for nitrate, followed by the corals only system.

The same guideline applies to them all, 10%. It is likely that this will be excessive or adequate for a coral only system, with that possibility reducing for a mixed reef and much reduced for a fish only. Again, the same action can be taken in response to ongoing test results.

So it is clear that there isn’t a rule for seawater changing. The guideline of 10% is for the early months as the aquarium matures and trends are discovered. Following this, the aquarist can make a reasonable determination on ongoing action.

Routine seawater changing should not be abandoned or over extended even though tests indicate it could be. Seawater changing is of great benefit to the health and vitality of the inhabitants. There may be equipment fitted such as a protein skimmer, but such equipment is an aid to seawater quality and not a guarantee of it.

Why Should Alkalinity Be Higher In The Aquarium?

The marine aquarium can be so beautiful if the aquarist does straightforward routine maintenance as required, and doing this maintenance includes attention to the all important seawater quality.

Seawater quality is maintained by routine changes of sufficient quantity, and at the same time tests are completed to ensure that the required standards are met. These tests include specific gravity (SG), pH, nitrate and for a reef could include calcium and similar. Some aquarists continue to test for ammonia and nitrite after the initial maturing process. Alkalinity is a test that is useful to marine systems too.

It would seem fair to think that Mother Nature would know best in these matters and the alkalinity level in the wild is 7 to 9 KH*. So perhaps we should keep out aquarium seawater at the same level.

We could maintain a natural level and hopefully all things being equal there wouldn’t be any problems. However, we are not talking of the vastness of the seas and oceans where seawater quantity is measured in cubic miles; we are talking about aquariums where even a large home system of 500 gallons is, by comparison, very tiny.

Most aquariums are fully stocked whatever system they are. The life in the aquarium puts pressure on the seawater in several ways and one of them is the acid/alkalinity balance. We know this measure as it uses the pH scale, and we want a pH of between 8.0 and 8.4 which is on the alkaline side. The life functions in the aquarium constantly try to reduce this pH towards the acid side, something we do not want.

Prevention of the reduction in pH is achieved by the ‘buffering’ capacity of the seawater, in other words its ability to resist changes caused by acidic substances. The ‘buffer’ is mainly the carbonate/bicarbonate content of the seawater. In certain circumstances the buffer could be seriously weakened or even exhaust and the pH would fall which is detrimental to the livestock.

Dry seawater salt as purchased by most aquarists for seawater make-up has a buffering capacity usually around natural levels. However, many aquarists boost the buffering capacity of their seawater by adding carbonate/bicarbonate powders. These powders are usually mixed in some seawater before being added to the aquarium, being careful not to hit corals etc. The powders are sold commercially and are very easy to use.

In an aquarium it is considered best to maintain alkalinity from 8 to 14 KH.* It is not recommended to raise the level above 14 KH.* The recommended level of 8 to 14 KH does not mean the level can vary within these limits, it should be reasonably stable at the chosen point, ‘reasonably’ meaning that some variation over say a week will not usually be harmful. My system runs at 10 KH and needs boosting to an extent weekly.

If the aquarist measures the alkalinity of a fully stocked system on a weekly basis and keeps a note, then the trend of the aquarium can be seen. The amount of buffer that needs to be added is easily prepared week to week. Testing can be reduced once this requirement has been discovered but should not be abandoned.

If pH is a problem and it is falling despite routine seawater changes and good husbandry in feeding etc, then perhaps the buffer capacity needs attention. Increasing the buffer by 1 KH week to week will not do harm. I have found a good alkalinity level is also beneficial to the growth of welcome encrusting algae which can beautify the aquarium.

By the way, if the desire is to measure alkalinity by mg/l, then multiply KH by 17.9.

(*Reference: Marine Atlas. Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch)

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Do We Feed Our Fish Too Much?

After feeding my fish the other day I settled back to watch them feed and then observe them as they returned to their normal habits on their ‘reef’ after all the food had gone.

This is something that I like to do as I find it relaxing plus it also gives me the opportunity to be able to check the fish are all healthy and active.

One thing I noticed was that even though they had just been fed they continued to scour the reef looking for food.

This got me thinking – do we need to feed our fish the amount that we do?

Is there enough food in an established aquarium to be able to sustain the health of any fish which are kept in an enclosed environment?

I am not saying by any means that anyone should stop feeding their fish – far from it.

What I was thinking about that evening is something that has stuck in my mind. In an established aquarium there are all sorts of life which are too small for us to see however fish are able to see them (and if they can catch them they may eat them).

With the amount of life which is in an established aquarium is there enough variety and quantity to be able to sustain the fish?

Would aquarists need to supplement this food to provide variety or for health related matters?

Would it be better for the fish as they would be able to feed lightly throughout the day rather than having one or two ‘mass’ feedings a day?

Another thing I was thinking about that evening was the feeding itself and whether the way we normally feed fish due to busy lives changes the in-built habits of fish. The majority of fish have an inbuilt urge to look for fish and then eat as much as fast as they can as they do not know when they will next find food. With the hand of the aquarist feeding the fish on a daily basis is this urge removed or reduced?

Perhaps this is all just me thinking too much but as said it is something that just stuck in my mind.

Maybe a test could be performed – not by me I hasten to add but by someone who both has more courage as well as the ability to scientifically prove the outcome of the test.

Until a test such as this is performed I am going to continue feeding the way I have been and recommend that you do as well.

If anyone has any answers or thought to any of the above questions then I would love to hear them.

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Note – It has been a long time since I posted on Aquarists Online and it has been very nice to see emails asking if everything was ok etc. The reason I have not been posting for a while is that I have a lot going on at the moment and there do not appear to be enough hours in the day to get everything done. John has done a fantastic job in my opinion getting posts out as often as he does however although he is retired he is also an exceptionally busy man. I am pleased to say that I am now getting back into posting regularly on Aquarists Online – I hope no-one minds!

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The Long One

Like the majority of aquarists I have a schedule for maintaining my aquarium. With the commitments I have and the time available I’ve found that this schedule saves time – usually.

Saving time doesn’t always occur, sometimes, and it is infrequent, something occurs which takes up a lot more time. Not today though, all went well mainly.

My schedule depends on a number. Number one is clean the glass. Wow, that’s it! Number two is the same as one plus the intake filters on some powerheads, plus a routine seawater change. Number three is the same as one. Number four is a comprehensive clean. Included with all of these numbers is a check for any unwanted organisms such as Aiptasia. So as can be seen maintenance covers a four week cycle.

Maintenance is nearly always done on a Sunday as there is time available, in the morning anyway.  It all sounds a bit military maybe, but it works.

The number for today is four, the long one. New seawater ready and waiting, cleaning equipment near the aquarium. The aquarium is surrounded by carpet, so polythene covers are in place. They catch the drips and minor splashes very well.

The very first thing is to clean, with a hard toothbrush, my miniscule algae scrubber. This developed by itself and is obviously doing something as it exists! There must be some level of nutrients in the seawater feeding it. The photo shows it – I did say it is tiny, about 3 inches across and 2 inches deep! The seawater flow is from the hang-on skimmer.

Next the bracing struts and viewing glasses are cleaned with an algae magnet. Only the front and one end viewing glass are done, encrusting algae is permitted to grow on the others.

Exciting stuff this isn’t it! Now the four powerheads which sit in a small compartment are checked. The powerheads driving the under-reef spray bar and anti-phosphate filter have sponge intake filters and these need thorough attention. The anti-phosphate filter is shown in the photo; it is a homemade hang-on type. (Taking the photo was difficult, it is under an open stairway and space is restricted.) The other is an anti-nitrate filter, again homemade but this isn’t in use.

This maintenance is progressing well. The Eheim canister filter is next, the mechanical media has to be checked. This is comprised of fine and medium sponges and it can be surprising how much they catch from what appears to be clean seawater. I have to save numerous very small shrimps as well; these are placed in the display aquarium ensuring the fish don’t get them. There are numbers on the filters – this is from when they were both used for biological purposes so that they could be selected for cleaning, this doesn’t apply now as the biological media has been removed.

Getting there now and it is usually at this point that a cup of coffee appears. Thanks!

Siphoning is next on the agenda but before the main siphon tube is used, I attack any unwanted organisms. Today I located a few Aiptasia and these were dealt with. I’ll have to deal with more as time passes; they are never eliminated, probably because there are so many nooks and crannies in a reef aquarium. As long as they are not left to their own devices for too long they aren’t a problem.

So out come gallons of seawater with the siphon tube, this seawater will be dumped. (I used to use it for brine shrimp production but no longer do so.) At this time any debris spotted on the base of the aquarium is removed. There isn’t much base to be seen but it is checked anyway.

The new seawater is placed on the stairs above the aquarium and my wife kindly makes sure the tube doesn’t come out (not the siphon tube, one that is considerably longer). In goes the seawater.

Not quite done. I manually add certain additives to the seawater, these being calcium, bicarbonate and carbonate powder (for alkalinity) and iodine. Calcium is maintained at around 420ppm and alkalinity at around 4.0meq/L. I don’t measure the iodine level as it is only added once every two weeks at the minimum dose, there has never been a problem.

Nearly time to pack up now, just give the glass bracing struts a clean with a paper towel, likewise the viewing glasses. A check with the hydrometer is required, this is fine at 1024.

Final job – give the fluorescent tubes a wipe. Now it’s all done.

No, not quite. The two fish get some brine shrimp for being so patient!

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