Archive for the Care Category

Don’t Ruin Your Water By Overfeeding Your Fish

No matter what type of aquarium you keep or are hoping to keep – be this a [tag-tec]fish only aquarium[/tag-tec], [tag-ice]reef tank[/tag-ice] or [tag-self]mixed reef tank[/tag-self] then there is one thing which you need to ensure. Water quality. Let’s face it the aquarium is a closed environment. The fish, corals

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Aquarium Maintenance Software

Both John and I record our water parameters, maintenance activities etc in a little book which we complete after each water test, when items are due for replacement etc.

Over time this gives us a very good representation as to what is happening in the aquarium, any trends which can be identified, trouble which can be potentially averted prior to it happening etc.

This is the way we do it and a lot of other aquarists all over the world do it this way as well.

Of course there are some people who do not record any information at all. The water is simply tested to check if everything is ok. If it is then it is simply forgotten about, if it isn’t then steps are hopefully put in place to locate and rectify the issue.

As with anything there are other ways in which you can record the information. One of which is via the use of computer software.

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Download A Reef Aquarium Seawater Test Chart, A Reminder Chart, And A General Notes Chart

These charts are available for download and will hopefully assist in the methodical testing of the seawater, the timeous changing of lighting and filter medias, and also offer a means of keeping track of aquarium livestock additions.

The Test Chart: this of course is very easily adaptable to a fish only system by using only the tests that are applicable.

By using a test chart and testing routinely, the aquarist can see that the seawater parameters are stable. On the other hand, any trend, such as falling calcium levels, changing pH etc can be spotted. Trends often show up, allowing the aquarist to accurately calculate, for example, the amount of an additive that is required at intervals.

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Guideline Basic Seawater Parameters For The Reef Aquarium

I thought a note on the parameters for seawater in a reef aquarium might be useful, so here they are.

Please note that these are guideline numbers (apart from toxic items such as ammonia) – I can hear aquarists saying that theirs is different and their reef is fantastic!

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My pH Is Too Low

pH is one of the parameters that is important in a marine aquarium, and is therefore checked regularly. It could be that the pH is lower than the aquarist desires. There are a few things that can be checked and tried. This may raise the level sufficiently.

The first move is to consider at what time of day the water test was undertaken. If this was shortly after the lighting turned on, the low reading may be because during the night there is a tendency in some systems for the pH to fall. Therefore carry out a further test say an hour before the lights turn off. The pH may well measure higher. If desired, algae (Caulerpa) can be planted below the display aquarium and lit on an opposite cycle to the display aquarium. This will help counter the pH drop.

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Oxydative Redox Potential (ORP)

Before reading this description it may be useful to read ‘Aquarium pH.’ This can be accessed by clicking on Articles (top of page), then scrolling down to the section named Water Quality.

Initially it should be stated that the aquarist has no need to delve into ORP unless there is a wish to, or the aquarist has advanced enough to believe that understanding will be of value.

The Redox Potential (RP) can be measured by means of a probe, and is measured in millivolts (mV). (The pH can also be measured likewise in mV.) The RP and pH of an aquarium are interdependent.

At RP 300 (pH 8.2) the seawater is considered to be moderately polluted. The RP relates to the pollution load and pH. At a pH of 8.2, if the seawater is polluted, the RP could measure less than +100mV.

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Iodine Addition To The Marine Aquarium

The marine reef aquarist carries out routine changes to maintain the necessary high quality of the seawater. The life within the aquarium makes demands on the seawater and the aquarist needs to ensure that there is sufficient quantity to meet those demands.

Some of the additions to the seawater are well known and accepted. One of these is calcium. Others are not so widely accepted as necessary, and one of these is iodine.

All non-scientific people, which includes me, tend to think of iodine as, well, iodine. As in so many things, it is not as simple as that.

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What Additives Do You Use In Your Aquarium?

Aquarists who run [tag-tec]fish only aquarium[/tag-tec] may not use additives at all. They are really only committed to routine water changes. Additives are mainly the domain of the reef aquarist. Even with a [tag-ice]reef aquarium[/tag-ice] the additives will depend on what livestock are being kept. Fish on the reef are

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Aiptasia, Majano Anemones And Joes Juice

When your aquarium is running no doubt like I did you will stare into the aquarium for hours peering into the water in the hope of seeing something new growing out of the rock.

You will see all sorts of things growing, however there are some things in the aquarium, which although alive are more a pest than a welcome addition.

What I am talking about here is the dreaded Aiptasia and the Majano anemones.

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Is There Such A Thing As A Maintenance Free Aquarium?

No work at all! Just view and enjoy the coral colours and the various reef fish. Many or perhaps all aquarists would tend to call that aquatic heaven – maybe.

Is it possible though? Is there a way that the aquarist can design a marine system where, once all is settled and mature, there is nothing else to do?

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