Why Should Alkalinity Be Higher In The Aquarium?
June 28, 2009
The marine aquarium can be so beautiful if the aquarist does straightforward routine maintenance as required, and doing this maintenance includes attention to the all important seawater quality.
Seawater quality is maintained by routine changes of sufficient quantity, and at the same time tests are completed to ensure that the required standards are met. These tests include specific gravity (SG), pH, nitrate and for a reef could include calcium and similar. Some aquarists continue to test for ammonia and nitrite after the initial maturing process. Alkalinity is a test that is useful to marine systems too.
It would seem fair to think that Mother Nature would know best in these matters and the alkalinity level in the wild is 7 to 9 KH*. So perhaps we should keep out aquarium seawater at the same level.
We could maintain a natural level and hopefully all things being equal there wouldn’t be any problems. However, we are not talking of the vastness of the seas and oceans where seawater quantity is measured in cubic miles; we are talking about aquariums where even a large home system of 500 gallons is, by comparison, very tiny.
Most aquariums are fully stocked whatever system they are. The life in the aquarium puts pressure on the seawater in several ways and one of them is the acid/alkalinity balance. We know this measure as it uses the pH scale, and we want a pH of between 8.0 and 8.4 which is on the alkaline side. The life functions in the aquarium constantly try to reduce this pH towards the acid side, something we do not want.
Prevention of the reduction in pH is achieved by the ‘buffering’ capacity of the seawater, in other words its ability to resist changes caused by acidic substances. The ‘buffer’ is mainly the carbonate/bicarbonate content of the seawater. In certain circumstances the buffer could be seriously weakened or even exhaust and the pH would fall which is detrimental to the livestock.
Dry seawater salt as purchased by most aquarists for seawater make-up has a buffering capacity usually around natural levels. However, many aquarists boost the buffering capacity of their seawater by adding carbonate/bicarbonate powders. These powders are usually mixed in some seawater before being added to the aquarium, being careful not to hit corals etc. The powders are sold commercially and are very easy to use.
In an aquarium it is considered best to maintain alkalinity from 8 to 14 KH.* It is not recommended to raise the level above 14 KH.* The recommended level of 8 to 14 KH does not mean the level can vary within these limits, it should be reasonably stable at the chosen point, ‘reasonably’ meaning that some variation over say a week will not usually be harmful. My system runs at 10 KH and needs boosting to an extent weekly.
If the aquarist measures the alkalinity of a fully stocked system on a weekly basis and keeps a note, then the trend of the aquarium can be seen. The amount of buffer that needs to be added is easily prepared week to week. Testing can be reduced once this requirement has been discovered but should not be abandoned.
If pH is a problem and it is falling despite routine seawater changes and good husbandry in feeding etc, then perhaps the buffer capacity needs attention. Increasing the buffer by 1 KH week to week will not do harm. I have found a good alkalinity level is also beneficial to the growth of welcome encrusting algae which can beautify the aquarium.
By the way, if the desire is to measure alkalinity by mg/l, then multiply KH by 17.9.
(*Reference: Marine Atlas. Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch)
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I Know About Seawater Quality, But…
April 21, 2009
Marine aquarists aim to maintain seawater which is of the highest quality. The reward for doing so is a vibrant aquarium, be it a fish only, corals only or mixed reef, and without the intrusion of nuisance algae.
‘Quality’ means the seawater is stable, the pH in the region 8.0 to 8.4, nitrates in a fish only at 30 ppm (parts per million) or less, in a reef system 10 ppm or less, and phosphate preferably undetectable. If the aquarium contains a captive reef the aquarist will quite likely maintain alkalinity, also calcium if this is relevant to the livestock. However, for the purposes of this discussion quality means stable pH and ‘proper’ nitrate and phosphate levels, that is, they are within the guidelines.
Aquarists complete routine seawater changes which go a long way towards maintaining high quality. Any undesirables in the seawater are diluted and, at the same time, trace elements are replenished or partially so. The seawater could be said to be freshened. The initial guideline amount for routine changes is 10% of the total net gallonage of the system weekly. This therefore includes any sump. There isn’t any requirement to change 10% every week; the aquarist could find it more convenient to change 20% fortnightly. However, a weekly change probably contributes to stability in itself, as the change caused by raw seawater being added is smaller.
pH as said could be anything between 8.0 and 8.4. Whichever the measurement is it should be reasonably stable. It is possible, in some circumstances probable, that there will be a fluctuation in pH between the lights on and off periods. This is normal as it has to do with seawater dissolved gas levels. If there is an excessive reduction, or any reduction which worries the aquarist, one way of combating the change is to employ algae in a sump. The macro algae Caulerpa is commonly used and is lit by fluorescent tubes which have an opposite cycle to the display aquarium lights, which means that when the display aquarium is lit the sump is not and vice versa. Plant growth tubes are often used to assist the Caulerpa, these tubes have a lower Kelvin rating than lights commonly used on a display aquarium. The Caulerpa will also act as a natural filter to combat nitrate and phosphate.
Sometimes pH is not varying excessively, it is just too low. If the reading is consistently too low, and by this it is meant below 8.0, then it is possible that the system does not have efficient enough gas exchange. Gas exchange occurs at air/seawater interfaces, particularly at the aquarium surface. It also occurs on protein skimmer outlets, weirs and the like. It is at these interfaces that the seawater takes in oxygen which is clearly important for livestock. Too low an oxygen level could have serious repercussions for the livestock under certain circumstances, and it could also be the cause of a low pH reading.
Testing the seawater for sufficient oxygen relevant to pH is very easy. Measure the pH of the seawater in the aquarium and make a note of the result. Siphon a gallon or two of seawater into a safe bucket, the one used for new seawater will do. Importantly maintain the temperature so it is the same as the aquarium and also circulate the seawater vigorously for two hours or so. The heater used for new seawater will be fine, also the powerhead or air pump. Note that the seawater needs to be moved vigorously, if it is sluggish it will not do.
After the required time measure the pH of the seawater in the bucket. If it is the same as the aquarium then seawater movement in the aquarium should be adequate. If the pH is higher than that in the aquarium then increasing seawater movement in the aquarium should be beneficial. Sometimes an additional powerhead will do. Place it about half way down in a convenient and hopefully hidden from view spot, and point the outlet at the surface or at an angle across it. Seawater will be moved either in a mound at the surface or a stronger flow will move across the surface. In either case gas exchange should increase affecting the pH. Before an additional powerhead is used it could be worthwhile checking the positions of existing devices.
If the pH is too low and the above test doesn’t make any difference, maybe the alkalinity is also too low. Keeping it brief and basic, seawater is on the alkaline side of the pH scale. Life actions of livestock continually try to push the pH towards the acidic side, particularly in heavily stocked fish only systems. Increasing the alkalinity could maintain pH at a more desirable level and is worth trying. If alkalinity is adjusted it is usual to keep it above natural seawater levels. If it is intended to try this, then there isn’t any mystery or need to explain measurements. Test kits and adjustment powders are commercially produced and easily obtained. The instructions will explain all and there will be a measurement chart included.
The aquarist could be having trouble with nitrate and/or phosphate. If routine seawater changes are properly done and excessive readings persist there are checks that should be initially considered.
First is feeding as this is the major culprit in many seawater quality problems particularly with novices. Nitrate is a product of the nitrogen cycle and is the end product with a canister filter. Even the acclaimed live rock cannot deal with some nitrate readings. Phosphate is mainly introduced to the seawater by feeding. Both nitrate and phosphate have been implicated in problems with nuisance algae, so excessive readings need to be reduced. There is information on feeding techniques in the Articles section on aquaristsonline.com, so further explanation will not be given here. The tendency to overfeed usually has two causes, the first being the pleasure of feeding and the second the concern that the livestock get enough. Both are good reasons, but the act of overfeeding will do harm. As said, the first action is to carefully check the method of feeding and the amount fed.
Nevertheless, some aquarists have trouble anyway, despite being disciplined when feeding and despite doing regular seawater changes. It has already been stated that the initial guideline for routine seawater changes is 10% of the total system net gallonage. Note the word ‘initial’. It may be that the amount changed needs to be increased. It could very well depend on the livestock load. A fully and correctly stocked mixed reef system will usually have a lower bio-load than an equivalent sized fully and correctly stocked fish only system. Fish present a heavier bio-load than corals. So for example in a fish only system there is heavier feeding because of the higher number of fish and of course the fishes life cycles continue. Thus there is more scope to see excessive nitrate and/or phosphate readings. The answer here is probably dilution. In other words an increase in the amount of seawater changed routinely. If the aquarist is changing 10% this could be increased to 15%. Have the readings begun to subside? The readings will gradually subside, as additional pollution continues to be produced – it will not suddenly or quickly disappear. If not, try a further increase to 20%. It is not normally recommended to change more than 25%.
It has to be reiterated that increases in the gallonage of routine seawater changes come after the aquarist is fully satisfied that other avenues to solve the problem are exhausted, such as the mentioned feeding. It is also important to examine carefully the filtration which in the first instance should be adequate. Filtration to combat nitrate and phosphate could be increased. In the case of nitrate more live rock for example, and/or if there is a sump the introduction of a DSB (deep sand bed) and perhaps some Caulerpa algae. In the case of phosphate perhaps an anti-phosphate resin filter could be considered.
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What Salinity Should I Keep My Marine Aquarium At?
March 29, 2009
Marine aquarists use a hydrometer to measure the specific gravity (SG) of the seawater. The hobby hydrometer is not a pure scientific instrument but is capable of sufficient accuracy to enable stability of the SG – provided the aquarist does at least a weekly check.
Marine aquariums come in two main types, fish only and reef. To be precise, for ‘reef’ I should really say mixed reef and corals only reef, the former being corals and fish (the usual).
The first consideration is what SG is really necessary. To answer that it would seem best to look at the wild reefs, our livestock’s natural home. The SG of the sea in those locations should give the answer. Well, yes it should, but it doesn’t seem as simple as that. Is it ever!
The sea is considered to be stable which for the volume taken up is not really surprising. The SG on the reefs though is perhaps surprising, as it can range from 1.017 to 1.031*. Specific gravity is affected by temperature and some variance in temperature is understandable. In addition, some seas are more ‘land-locked’ than others such as the Red Sea. So there is going to be variance.
Some state that it is best to mimic nature and I sympathize with that. However, mimic which reading?
Looking at averages could be the answer. The lowest encountered salinities (on reefs measured) had an average of 1.025, and the highest 1.026*. Now this is more like it.
Provided livestock are acclimatized properly there is tolerance to some change which over a period becomes the normal. Generally, fish are like this and will happily live in seawater with an SG from 1.022 to 1.026. (Some aquarists use lower SG levels for specific purposes.) There seems little point in having a higher SG than necessary so many fish only systems run at SG 1.022. There is some evidence that certain parasites don’t do so well at 1.022 so that is a bonus. Also, and very much secondary, not so much dry salt will be required for routine seawater changes which will reduce costs a little.
What of the reef system? Whether this is corals only or mixed, the corals dictate the SG requirement. Corals are much less tolerant of a lower SG and 1.024 is the minimum for them. The range usually cited for corals is 1.024 to 1.026.
Whatever the seawater SG is, it should be stable. Testing at least once weekly is required and unlike many other types there will not be a need to renew a test kit from time to time. The hydrometer, barring accidents, is a once only purchase.
SG is a very important parameter of seawater and one that is very easily controlled. The SG could reduce because of salt ‘creep’, where salt encrusts overhead wiring, lights, glass and the like. The SG could increase because of poor seawater top-up management, as only fresh water evaporates leaving the salt behind. High quality seawater is the often quoted number one necessity and simple monitoring is required.
(*Reference: Aquarium Corals. Eric H. Borneham)
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The Constituents Of Seawater
December 19, 2008
The seas and oceans cover the majority of the planet surface. Within those seas the wild reefs have grown and all of their needs are met, be that calcium or whatever. The life on the wild reef has had a very long time to adapt to the sea, which is considered to be stable.
Some of these life forms end up in the home marine aquarium. With the natural seas being so stable it follows that for success the conditions on the wild reef should be duplicated as near as possible, and conditions provided that successfully permit life to function and be healthy.
Seawater quality is the number one on the list of ‘must haves’ for success so it follows that the seawater used should be as close as possible in make-up to the natural kind. In much earlier days aquarists would obtain some constituents – not all of them by any means – from a chemist and mix up a brew. Livestock existed in this fairly well for a while but trouble usually appeared. Nowadays there are many high quality dry salt mixes available which the manufacturers state equals the natural type. Be that as it may, the appearance of these dry salt mixes has brought the successful maintenance of a marine system within the reach of every aspiring aquarist provided the interest in the hobby is maintained and the requisite maintenance is done.
Seawater is a mix of many things, some of them present in major amounts, others in trace amounts, and more with a very tiny presence. So for the benefit of anyone interested there follows a list of the make-up of seawater. There is clearly no requirement of any kind for an aquarist to know them but as said it may be of interest. It could also be of use for aquarists who wish to maintain natural levels of important parts such as calcium etc.
Major Elements. (All measurements in mg/l)
|
Chlorine |
18880 |
|
Sodium |
10770 |
|
Magnesium |
1290 |
|
Sulphur |
884 |
|
Calcium |
412.1 |
|
Potassium |
399 |
|
Bromine |
67.3 |
|
Carbon |
28 |
|
Nitrogen |
15 |
|
Strontium |
7.9 |
|
Boron |
4.5 |
|
Silicon |
2 |
|
Fluorine |
1.3 |
Trace Elements. (All measurements in ug/l)
|
Lithium |
180 |
|
Rubidium |
120 |
|
Iodine |
60 |
|
Phosphorus |
60 |
|
Molybdenum |
10 |
|
Zinc |
4.9 |
|
Argon |
4.3 |
|
Arsenic |
3.7 |
|
Uranium |
3.2 |
|
Vanadium |
2.5 |
|
Aluminium |
2 |
|
Barium |
2 |
|
Iron |
2 |
|
Nickel |
1.7 |
|
Titanium |
1 |
|
Copper |
0.5 |
|
Cesium |
0.4 |
|
Chromium |
0.3 |
|
Antimony |
0.24 |
|
Manganese |
0.2 |
|
Krypton |
0.2 |
|
Selenium |
0.2 |
|
Neon |
0.12 |
|
Cadmium |
0.1 |
|
Wolfram |
0.1 |
|
Cobalt |
0.05 |
|
Germanium |
0.05 |
|
Xenon |
0.05 |
|
Silver |
0.04 |
|
Gallium |
0.03 |
|
Lead |
0.03 |
|
Zirconium |
0.03 |
|
Bismuth |
0.02 |
|
Mercury |
0.02 |
|
Niobium |
0.01 |
|
Thallium |
0.01 |
|
Thorium |
0.01 |
|
Tin |
0.01 |
|
Hafnium |
0.007 |
|
Helium |
0.0068 |
|
Beryllium |
0.0056 |
|
Gold |
0.004 |
|
Rhenium |
0.004 |
|
Lanthanum |
0.003 |
|
Neodymium |
0.003 |
|
Tantalum |
0.003 |
|
Yttrium |
0.0013 |
|
Cerium |
0.001 |
|
Dysprosium |
0.0009 |
|
Erbium |
0.0008 |
|
Ytterbium |
0.0008 |
|
Gadolinium |
0.0007 |
|
Praseodymium |
0.0006 |
|
Scandium |
0.0006 |
|
Holmium |
0.0002 |
|
Lutetium |
0.0002 |
|
Thorium |
0.0002 |
|
Indium |
0.0001 |
|
Terbium |
0.0001 |
|
Samarium |
0.00005 |
|
Europium |
0.00001 |
|
Radium |
0. 00000007 |
|
Protactinium |
0. 00000005 |
|
Radon |
0. 000000000006 |
Constituents with a tiny presence.
|
Technetium |
|
Ruthenium |
|
Rhodium |
|
Palladium |
|
Osmium |
|
Iridium |
|
Platinum |
|
Astatine |
|
Francium |
|
Actinium |
(Reference: ‘Baensch Marine Atlas’. Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch)
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The Essential Bacterial Service
December 16, 2008
There is one area in the aquarium no matter if it is fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium that the aquarist must have. If it is missing or inefficient there will be failure or trouble without doubt.
It is generally known as the bio-filter (bio = biological). Some aquarists prefer to name it ‘the life support system’ which is an apt description. Bio-filtration can be provided in more than one way though it all operates on the same principle. In addition the aquarist will be working with Mother Nature as it is bacteria that are relied upon.
Though it is commonly called bio-filtration as said, the bacterial activity that is occurring within the filter is nitrification and denitrification, under the overall heading ‘The Nitrogen Cycle’.
When livestock go through their life functions from day to day ammonia is produced, and ammonia is a deadly toxin. Fish produce the most. In addition rotting food leftovers and dead algae break down and produce more toxins. If there weren’t any bacteria then the fish would start to act strangely, swimming erratically and breathing heavily. Finally they would die, poisoned by the ammonia, so it is clear that the bio-filtration must be present and adequate.
One relevant point that can be made is that an efficient protein skimmer should be used. This is because the skimmer will remove dissolved organics from the seawater before the bio-filter needs to start work on it, thus reducing the work of the bacteria. A protein skimmer does not remove the need for a bio-filter.
How does The Nitrogen Cycle work? Toxic ammonia is the first problem, and bacteria (Nitrosomonas) are present in the bio-filter to deal with this. The ammonia is converted to nitrite.
Unfortunately nitrite is also a toxin, nearly as bad as ammonia, so bacteria (Nitrobacter) are again present to deal with it. The nitrite is converted into nitrate which is not considered toxic, though it is detrimental to livestock at a high level.
It is important that the seawater contains a high level of oxygen as the bacteria converting ammonia and nitrite are oxygen hungry. The term ‘nitrification’ covers the conversion of ammonia and nitrite.
The Nitrogen Cycle ends once the nitrate has been converted by bacteria into gas which escapes from the aquarium at air/water interfaces. This breakdown of nitrate is termed denitrification. The bacteria, in order to break down the nitrate, need a very low oxygen environment. This is because if oxygen were present the bacteria would use it and nitrate would not be reduced. Without an adequate oxygen presence the bacteria extract their oxygen needs from the nitrate, thus breaking it down.
So overall The Nitrogen Cycle is the conversion of ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite to nitrate. Then follows the conversion of nitrate to gas.
Giving the bacteria a home in the aquarium so that they can efficiently carry out their work is easy. First, the design of the aquarium should allow for optimum gas exchange which will permit high oxygen levels in the seawater. Next the media for the bacteria can be considered.
Nowadays the number one recommendation for bio-filtration is live rock. This is so called because the rock naturally harbours the needed bacteria, all of them, those that convert ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The first two are near or at the surface of the rock, and the third deeper inside where oxygen is not plentiful. It is an excellent medium and in addition provides the aquarist with a natural aquascaping material for a captive reef or in a fish only system. Rock quality must be good and there must be sufficient to meet the demand of the livestock. Live rock is expensive because of the weight which is unfortunate, but nevertheless it should be a first consideration.
If live rock is not used, there are other methods. Probably the easiest is the canister filter, as a huge area of filter media can be provided and setting it up is straightforward. It is important to ensure that the amount of media can cope with the livestock present, so reference to the manufacturer’s recommendations should be made. The media when obtained will be ‘dead’, without any bacteria present. Bacteria are easily introduced by using one of the commercially produced ‘inoculation’ fluids which are easily obtainable. The information supplied should be carefully followed and tests made as instructed.
There is a shortfall with canister filters and similar devices in that the seawater being pumped through the media is oxygen rich. This is excellent for the bacteria that convert ammonia and nitrite, but nitrate will not be touched. Therefore there will be a slow build-up of nitrate in the seawater. I used the word ‘shortfall’ not ‘problem’ as it is easily dealt with. If the aquarist carries out routine seawater changes then the nitrate presence will be continually diluted and should be kept down to reasonable levels. 10% of the system net gallonage is the guideline for initial changes but if necessary this can be increased up to around a limit of 25%. If this is not sufficient to control nitrate then there is something amiss – the system is overloaded with livestock, or the aquarist is overfeeding and the like. There are ways to reduce nitrate by filtration using bacteria (the denitrator filter) but this will not be gone into here. There are other ways too but again they will not be gone into here.
The aim of every aquarist is to own a successful aquarium. There is equipment available to make this more possible. However, at the very heart of the system are the bacteria, essential to every system of whatever type, big or small.
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The Necessity For Stability
December 7, 2008
There are some really stunning marine aquariums to be seen nowadays. Some of them are big, some are small and some are very small. In the big aquariums the beauty is probably mostly in the impact on the eye. In small and very small aquariums the beauty is probably more in the detail. They all have in common Mother Nature’s life forms in all their variety and colours.
There is something else that all successful marine aquariums have and that is environmental stability. This simply means that the different levels that are maintained with various items have little variation. Some of this is achieved automatically, some with the assistance of the aquarist.
There isn’t any intention of going into the full list of all the parameters that could be present as different systems – fish only and reef – vary. This is not to say that it doesn’t matter so much in one system or the other with parameter stability as it does. However, the reef aquarist needs to pay more attention to more parameters than one with a fish only system.
Some common examples won’t go amiss however. Temperature is important and the selected temperature should not vary unduly. This is commonly maintained by a heater/thermostat where the variation could be +/- 1 deg F. The seawater specific gravity should not vary measurably over a short period. The problem with seawater is it evaporates, or at least the water content does leaving the salt behind. Therefore the salt content has a tendency to rise and this is prevented by an auto top-up system or a manual top-up by the aquarist, the latter usually needed daily. The lighting and the lighting period may not seem like a parameter in the usual sense but stability is required with this also. With a reef system it is important that the spectrum and intensity are correct so bulb and/or tube changes are required periodically. Common to fish only and reef systems is the ‘lights on’ period. Whatever the individual aquarium requires, it should be regular and controlled by electric timers. This provides the livestock with a day and a night which they become used to. To enhance this, many aquarists include a ‘dawn and dusk’ cycle using the blue actinic fluorescents that are often fitted. These are set to come on ½ hour and go off ½ hour before and after the main lights turn off. As said there are more parameters, mainly to do with the seawater.
Stability is required because marine livestock could be said to be the spoilt children of Mother Nature. Disregarding the pollution and other damage caused by mankind, the wild reef is a stable environment. The reef is washed by the sea and oceans where volume is measured in cubic miles. The parameters of the seawater hardly change because the seas and oceans are so huge. There may be very short term changes in salinity at the surface during and for a short time after a heavy tropical rain storm and there may be some variations in temperature according to the time of day but overall stability rules. The life forms on the reef have adapted to this over a very long period indeed and they are hardly able to change quickly to a new environmental situation. That is why it is so important that new livestock are acclimatized properly to home seawater, which enables them to have at least some adaptation time. It is remarkable that livestock survive so well when they have faced the stresses of travel and an introduction to more than one holding tank on the way.
Compare the stable environment of a marine fish to that of a freshwater one in an ordinary small slow moving river. The freshwater fish is subject to more temperature change as the low water volume is more easily affected by the sun. If there is heavy rain then the water flow will increase and at the same time run-off into the river of soil will cause quality reduction of the water purity. In times of drought the river may reduce to a trickle and be even more subject to temperature and quality variation. Fresh water fish survive all these variations – in fact, the ability of different species of freshwater fish to survive extreme variations is remarkable. They have of course adapted to their environment in the same way as marine species have adapted to theirs.
The marine aquarium as said presents a lovely picture, usually fascinating to the non-aquarist as well. The beautiful and diverse livestock that could be present all depend on a high quality stable environment.
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Dosing Kalkwasser
December 4, 2008
Kalkwasser, otherwise known as limewater, is actually calcium hydroxide. Kalkwasser is a very fine powder and is normally introduced to the aquarium with the top-up water. There are realistically two methods to add kalkwasser to the aquarium, these are by a ‘kalk reactor/stirrer’ or by using what is called the drip method.
The drip method is where the kalkwasser is mixed with some prepared top-up water. It is important when mixing kalkwasser that it be mixed slowly, the reason for this is that it is imperative that as little air as possible gets into the top-up water. If too much air gets into the water then the kalkwasser will turn into calcium carbonate. Once the top-up water is prepared it should be left to sit for at least 2-3 hours so that any sediment can settle to the bottom of the container. The mixture which is left above the sediment is what will be introduced to the aquarium.
It is best to siphon this mixture out and dispose of the sediment. After the mixture has been siphoned out it is ready for use.
The kalk reactor/stirrer is where kalkwasser is introduced into a sealed chamber, within this chamber is a stirring device which mixes the kalkwasser and water. Water is pumped into the reactor normally by the use of a dosing/peristaltic pump and this water because of pressure forces water rich in kalkwasser into the aquarium.
Obviously the kalk reactor is easier than the manual method but both methods do work.
It is important when dosing kalkwasser not to dose it quickly. The reason is that water mixed with kalkwasser is of a very high pH. Therefore introducing it too quickly can alter the pH level of the aquarium water. To get round this problem you could either use a pH monitor to control the kalk reactor, or drip the mixture into the aquarium at a rate of about 1 drip per second (always drip into a high flow area). It is also worthwhile keeping an eye on the pH levels by testing the water using a pH water test kit.
There are both advantages and disadvantage in using kalkwasser in an aquarium. The disadvantages are twofold. One is that if you do not use a kalk reactor it takes time to mix the solution, the other is that because of the kalkwasser being added with the top up water you may not be able to introduce enough to maintain a steady level of calcium. The advantage, though, is that kalkwasser is very rich in calcium and can, if used correctly, maintain a high level.
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