The salinity of the marine aquarium is one of the major parameters that must be routinely checked. Salinity can change because of evaporation, and it is important to keep it stable. Daily top-ups of the water to a pre-determined level is an easy way, or using an auto top-up device.Read more →
Archive for the Water Quality Category
The title of this post is a saying which my father has said to me ever since I first started in this hobby. Where he got the saying from I don’t know – maybe he made it up himself. How true this saying is though. It does not matter ifRead more →
It always surprises me how much water actually evaporates from a [tag-tec]saltwater aquarium[/tag-tec]. It does depend upon the aquarium of course, how much water movement there is on the water surface, if overflows are used, the type of lighting selected etc. As we know stabilty is required in a saltwaterRead more →
Sounds as though I’m getting too personal! I’m not, it is definitely to do with the fish only aquarium or reef aquarium. It is equally relevant to both. Another possible target of such a question is the protein skimmer. That could be involved, but not entirely.What I’m actually on aboutRead more →
No matter what type of aquarium you keep or are hoping to keep – be this a [tag-tec]fish only aquarium[/tag-tec], [tag-ice]reef tank[/tag-ice] or [tag-self]mixed reef tank[/tag-self] then there is one thing which you need to ensure. Water quality. Let’s face it the aquarium is a closed environment. The fish, coralsRead more →
I thought a note on the parameters for seawater in a reef aquarium might be useful, so here they are.
Please note that these are guideline numbers (apart from toxic items such as ammonia) – I can hear aquarists saying that theirs is different and their reef is fantastic!Read more →
pH is one of the parameters that is important in a marine aquarium, and is therefore checked regularly. It could be that the pH is lower than the aquarist desires. There are a few things that can be checked and tried. This may raise the level sufficiently.
The first move is to consider at what time of day the water test was undertaken. If this was shortly after the lighting turned on, the low reading may be because during the night there is a tendency in some systems for the pH to fall. Therefore carry out a further test say an hour before the lights turn off. The pH may well measure higher. If desired, algae (Caulerpa) can be planted below the display aquarium and lit on an opposite cycle to the display aquarium. This will help counter the pH drop.Read more →
Before reading this description it may be useful to read ‘Aquarium pH.’ This can be accessed by clicking on Articles (top of page), then scrolling down to the section named Water Quality.
Initially it should be stated that the aquarist has no need to delve into ORP unless there is a wish to, or the aquarist has advanced enough to believe that understanding will be of value.
The Redox Potential (RP) can be measured by means of a probe, and is measured in millivolts (mV). (The pH can also be measured likewise in mV.) The RP and pH of an aquarium are interdependent.
At RP 300 (pH 8.2) the seawater is considered to be moderately polluted. The RP relates to the pollution load and pH. At a pH of 8.2, if the seawater is polluted, the RP could measure less than +100mV.Read more →
Magnesium is an element in the aquarium which is often neglected, however it is very important.
The topic of magnesium can be a very large and at times complex subject however in this short post I hope to provide only the information you need at present so you will know why magnesium is required and what levels you need to aim at maintaining it at.Read more →
There is an area which I belive at lot of aquarists either do not know they need to do or in some case forget to do.
Aquarists should test the water in the aquarium on a regular basis to ensure that everything is correct and stability is mainteined, however there is another area which needs to be tested periodically.Read more →