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The Calcium Reactor - When To Decide If You Need One Or Not

July 21, 2008

There is a variety of equipment to assist in the maintenance of a marine aquarium. Some are essential such as the heater/thermostat, others are supportive for example the auto top-up system. The calcium reactor is often supportive, but in some circumstances it can be argued that it is essential.

First of all, what is a calcium reactor? This device is a means of getting calcium into the seawater. This is achieved by slowly moving the seawater through a calcium rich media in an acidic environment. The device is attached to two inputs, first seawater and second carbon dioxide. The seawater is as said fed into a media area where the gas is present. The gas is injected under careful control, usually a bubble count. The acidic environment created causes the media to dissolve and the seawater carries calcium into the aquarium. The flow rate is slow, counted in drips per second or similar.

The amount of calcium demand is the key to the usefulness and effectiveness of using a calcium reactor. There is a need to measure the calcium in the aquarium, so the only way to know is to test. Testing will let the aquarist know what calcium presence there is, but what needs to be replaced for that which is used? The answer lies in doing an ongoing weekly test as in this way the calcium demand of the aquarium can be ascertained. When the amount at the end of the period is subtracted from the amount at the beginning an indication of the demand is obtained.

If the aquarist is running a fish only aquarium then a calcium reactor is not required. If the system is a reef then the aquarium size has an effect.

A small aquarium will house a smaller reef which in turn will support less corals. So the calcium demand is going to be lower. It is more than likely that a soft coral reef will need little or even no supplementation as these corals have a low demand. A hard coral reef such as SPS will have a higher demand.

A large aquarium will obviously usually house a large reef with many more corals. In this case, though soft corals have a low demand for calcium, because of the number the need is going to be greater and supplementation may well be required. It is generally safe to state that a large reef with many hard corals such as SPS will need supplementation.

Having determined the amount of calcium loss over a week, the aquarist can now determine the best way of replacing it. There are two main ways, one is to use commercially produced supplements that are available in liquid or powder form or a calcium reactor. The choice will be determined by cost and convenience.

On the small reef, the soft coral one, the demand as said will be low. In this case it is likely to be financially sensible to use a commercially produced supplement. With the low demand the supplement is going to last for many uses and therefore will not be an excessively expensive option. If it is a hard coral reef the demand will be higher and the aquarist will need to consider how long a supplement package will last and the cost involved, and then make a decision about using a reactor.

The large reef if a soft coral one may still have a calcium demand that can be sensibly met by a purchased supplement. The hard coral reef however is going to need a much larger amount and so only perhaps three or four doses will be available for each commercial supplement purchase. This is going to prove expensive as time progresses.

Having done the tests the aquarist is aware of the calcium demand per week, so a decision can be made. For the large reef, certainly the hard coral type, it will be better to employ a calcium reactor. Even though routine seawater changes are done the calcium shortfall will not be made up and package supplementation will be expensive and impractical. For the smaller aquarium the aquarist may decide to employ a calcium reactor for the hard coral reef, even though package supplementation is an option, as the reactor is convenient and once purchased less expensive to use.

The lowest guideline for an SPS reef calcium level is 400 parts per million (ppm), but it is usual to maintain a level of around 420 to 450ppm. A little rise and fall in the level seems not to be a problem. This rise and fall will occur when weekly supplementation is employed using a commercial product, but is less or removed with the use of a reactor as the device is applied continually or more regularly.

It is important when using a commercial supplement or a reactor to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. The commercial supplement is straightforward but some initial additional attention to testing is needed with the reactor. How fast is the drip rate? The faster it is the more calcium is entering the aquarium. Adjustment should permit the calcium requirement to be met. Attention must also be given to the amount of gas entering the media chamber, this is usually indicated by a bubble rate.

Even though testing to establish the calcium demand has been done in the early weeks, the final demand cannot be discovered until the reef is fully stocked with corals. The ongoing demand will also vary to an extent. It is good husbandry to continue testing for the calcium level so that changes can be catered for.

Maintaining an acceptable calcium level will prove to be very worthwhile, the corals particularly hard types will benefit and also small reef life such as shrimps and snails.

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How Do You Know When You May Need A Calcium Reactor?

May 15, 2008

A calcium reactor is a device which is used to provide much needed calcium as well as other elements dependant upon the media used. They work by slowly passing water through the media and recirculating it via a small pump. CO2 is slowly applied to the device to reduce the pH level in the device so that the media slowly dissolves. When the media dissolved calcium is released which is slowly passed into the aquarium system.

But how do you know if and when you will actually need one?

Well realistically it depends upon what you are keeping? If you are keeping a lot of hard corals then quite probably before long you will need to add one. If you dont keep hard corals then you may be able to control your calcium levels by water changes, additives, kalkwasser etc.

The best thing to do is actually test your water. If you find that you cannot maintain your calcium levels by performing water changes then perhaps you should try additives. If you find that you are having to spend a lot of money on additives then the next logical step would be either try kalkwasser or go straight for a calcium reactor.

If you decide to purchase a calcium reactor then there are loads available on the market plus there are quite a few desigs available now for those DIY enthusiasts.

There are some people who purchase a calcium reactor at the very start just because they believe that they need one.

I don’t agree with this as the only way to tell if you actually need on is either by your test kits or by the amount of money you are spending on other methods. If you are spending hundreds over the year then to be honest it is time to invest in a calcium reactor.

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Do You Need A Calcium Reactor When You Start Your Saltwater Aquarium

January 13, 2008

Over and over again I have said that research is imperative prior to starting your first home marine aquarium and I still stand by that it is and I am sure that lots of other people would agree with me.

However with research comes the belief that the costs may be higher than they actually need to be.

One of these such costs is the calcium reactor.

For some reason there is a belief amongst many people that a calcium reactor is required right from the offset.

A calcium reactor is a great device to install into the aquarium to ensure that the calcium requirements etc of the aquarium inhabitants are met and maintained.

But let’s face it at the very start of the aquarium live and potentially for a fair few months afterwards will there be enough life in the aquarium to require the purchase of a calcium reactor.

Don’t get me wrong I am a huge fan of the calcium reactor. It is a great device to use when the aquarium inhabitants needs cannot be met by additives and water changes but when the aquarium is first setup there is no life in there, therefore there is no pull on the calcium. A bit further down the road when the parameters are stabilising there may be a couple of fish in there and some corals but will the demand for calcium require the purchase and installation of a calcium reactor - probably not.

The best way in my opinion is to start off just with water changes and when your calcium water tests show that this is not maintaining calcium the additives should be used. Additives should continue to be used until such point that it would be cheaper to purchase a calcium reactor than continue purchase calcium additives.

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Iodine Addition To The Marine Aquarium

November 23, 2007

The marine reef aquarist carries out routine changes to maintain the necessary high quality of the seawater. The life within the aquarium makes demands on the seawater and the aquarist needs to ensure that there is sufficient quantity to meet those demands.

Some of the additions to the seawater are well known and accepted. One of these is calcium. Others are not so widely accepted as necessary, and one of these is iodine.

All non-scientific people, which includes me, tend to think of iodine as, well, iodine. As in so many things, it is not as simple as that.

In natural seawater the level of iodine is very low indeed, at 0.06 parts per million (ppm). As already stated, iodine is not just iodine. It appears in different types which come under the iodine heading: these can be iodide, iodate, hypoiodite, and molecular iodine. Looking at that lot, personally I prefer to stick to the iodine label!

The main iodine types in natural seawater (they are all present) are iodate and then iodide. Many algae types use iodate, and the zooxanthellae in the flesh of corals are algae, so it follows perhaps that iodate is of benefit to corals in that way.

It is also said that iodine (using the overall label) is a requirement of corals as it assists them resist UV radiation. It is also said that it helps in their protection against some parasites.

University research, and the studies of some commercial enterprises, are said to support the above benefits of iodine in seawater. It seems reasonable that as iodine is present in seawater, then some form of life may well have made use of it. I am certainly not qualified to agree or disagree with any research findings.

There is a lot of discussion and disagreement over the use of iodine. Some aquarists have shown pictures on the internet of their display aquariums, and they are indeed beautiful. However, in the technical descriptions a great many of them do not include iodine as an additive that they use.

I used to dose my soft coral reef with iodine, but stopped for a period of three months to see if there was any change (this is not scientific, any apparent result is anecdotal). As far as I was aware, there wasn’t any change in the growth or health in the aquarium in general, never mind the corals. (I have to note that regular seawater changes at 10% are done and always have been, so there will have been some fresh iodine being introduced regularly, though I wouldn‘t have thought the natural seawater level could have been maintained.) I didn’t resume using an iodine additive. Now, two years later, I am going to do the reverse for three months, and see if I notice any change in anything. I expect I will not, but I’ll wait and see.

One thing that is clear. Iodine as stated is present in the seas and oceans in a very small amount. It is necessary to maintain the correct level in the aquarium, and overdosing could be disastrous. Therefore, bearing in mind that routine seawater changes are adding some iodine, it is necessary to test for the level. As the level is so low, a sensitive and reasonably accurate test kit is required. An ordinary hobbyist one will do nicely, but check it is suitable by obtaining opinion.

Whether the aquarist uses iodine as an additive or not seems to be optional at the moment. Perhaps in the course of time, scientific study will answer the questions about its use.

(Reference: Salifert, Nieuwgraaf, Holland)

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How To Maintain Calcium Levels

July 16, 2007

Calcium is a building block on the reef and is essential. Many corals, invertebrates etc depend on it.

Let’s discuss parameters first, then look at how calcium can be provided.

It is generally accepted that in a home marine reef aquarium a calcium reading between 350ppm and 450ppm is acceptable. A calcium level in the aquarium which is higher than 550ppm will normally precipitate out of solution. This means the water becomes calcium saturated and no more can be held. Because of the water being saturated the calcium forms calcium carbonate. This is not a state of affairs that we realistically want.

If [tag-tec]calcium[/tag-tec] is not added to an aquarium for whatever reasons levels will fall as the animals use what is available. Within reason, having calcium levels at a low level is not a threat to the animals which depend upon it. These animals however will not thrive. For this reason (as with all water parameters) it is best to maintain a stable and adequate reading.

There are various ways to add calcium to the water. In this post I will attempt to cover the most common methods.

Water changes

This has to be the easiest and simplest method there is to replace calcium along with other trace elements. Using this method does depend on what you keep in the aquarium. If you keep a large number of calcium loving organisms, such as hard corals, then you may need to investigate other additional alternatives.

If you keep, for example, soft corals then this method may be acceptable. If you do decide to use this method, (remembering that water changes should be done in any case), then I would recommend that you use artificial salt which is ‘high’ in calcium (check the package description). Another point to remember is that if you use reverse osmosis water, obtain artificial salt which has been designed for use with reverse osmosis water.

To check the calcium levels of the replacement water simply test with a calcium test kit.

Kalkwasser

Kalkwasser, otherwise known as limewater, is actually calcium hydroxide. Kalkwasser is a very fine powder and is normally introduced to the aquarium with the top-up water. There are realistically two methods to add kalkwasser to the aquarium, these are by a ‘kalk reactor’ or by what is called the drip method.

The drip method is where the kalkwasser is mixed with some prepared top-up water. It is important when mixing kalkwasser that it be mixed slowly, the reason for this is that it is imperative that as little air as possible gets into the top-up water. If too much air gets into the water then the kalkwasser will turn into calcium carbonate. Once the top-up water is prepared it should be left to sit for 2-3 hours so that any sediment can settle to the bottom of the container. The mixture which is left above the sediment is what will be introduced to the aquarium. It is best to siphon this mixture out and dispose of the sediment. After the mixture has been siphoned out it is ready for use.

The [tag-tec]kalkwasser reactor[/tag-tec] is where kalkwasser is introduced into a sealed chamber, within this chamber is a stirring device which mixes the kalkwasser and water. Water is pumped into the reactor normally by the use of a dosing/peristaltic pump and this water, because of pressure forces water rich in kalkwasser into the aquarium.

Obviously the kalk reactor is easier than the manual method but both methods do work. Let’s move on to dosing methods.

It is important when dosing kalkwasser not to dose it quickly. The reason is that water mixed with kalkwasser is of a very high pH. Therefore introducing it too quickly can alter the pH level of the aquarium water. To get round this problem you could either use a pH monitor to control the kalk reactor, or drip the mixture into the aquarium at a rate of about 1 drip per second (always drip into a high flow area).

There are both advantages and disadvantage in using kalkwasser in an aquarium. The disadvantages are two fold. One is that if you do not use a kalk reactor it takes time to mix the solution, the other is that because of the kalkwasser being added with the top up water you may not be able to introduce enough to maintain a steady level of calcium. The advantage, though, is that kalkwasser is very rich in calcium and can, if used correctly, maintain a high level.

Calcium Additives

Calcium additives are used in aquariums which do not have very many calcium demanding life forms, or where a small tank is used. For example you probably would not be able to maintain an adequate calcium level in a heavily stocked SPS tank using this method - that is unless you are willing to spend a lot of money on lots of bottles!

The use of calcium additives is quite simple. Normally on the top of the bottle is a measuring device, often the lid itself, and you simply add a certain amount of liquid dependant upon the net gallons of water in the aquarium.

Calcium additives are useful alongside water changes. If you are not able to maintain an adequate level by performing water changes alone then you can add extra calcium using additives.

There is another type of calcium additive on the market which is not liquid but in powder form. This powder is mixed into some salt water and added to the aquarium in a high flow area, keeping away from corals etc.

Another calcium additive is called a balanced additive. This is a two part additive where you can add calcium with one and maintain alkalinity with the other.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on any additive. These will include a given amount of calcium and how much it will raise the level in ‘X’ gallons. Always make any increases slow, never adjust in one go.

Calcium Reactor

This is the method of choice for most reef keepers who keep calcium dependant organisms and/or have medium to large aquariums.

I am not saying that you definitely require one of these devices. It depends on what you are keeping. I would recommend that you try the water change and calcium additive method first. If you are struggling to maintain calcium levels in your aquarium, or the cost of additives is excessive, consider this method.

How does a [tag-tec]calcium reactor[/tag-tec] work?

A calcium reactor is a device which holds calcium carbonate (suitable media is commercially produced and easily obtained. It comes in granular form.). The media is slowly dissolved and releases calcium, and more, into the water.

The reactor is a sealed unit. Water is pumped slowly into the reactor, and is circulated within the reactor by a built-in pump. The calcium carbonate will not dissolve at the pH levels of the water in the aquarium, therefore carbon dioxide (CO2) is injected into the reactor. This CO2 lowers the pH within the reactor to levels of about 6.5 to 6.8 and the media slowly dissolves. The resulting mix can then be supplied slowly into the aquarium.

It should be noted that it depends upon the calcium media used as to what pH level the water needs to be for the media to dissolve. Also dependant upon the choice of media is what other elements will be supplied into the water.

The main advantage of this device is that it provides the easiest way to add calcium to the aquarium. Once a calcium reactor is installed and setup correctly, it can maintain high levels of calcium. Maintenance is simple. One check that must be made daily is the rate of injection of CO2. Excessive injection could allow excess acidity to affect the aquarium water (also dissolving the calcium media too quickly).

The initial cost of the calcium reactor, plus the CO2 bottle and control, has to be the biggest disadvantage. However, once the purchase has been made the running costs are minimal.

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