An Aquaristic Nightmare

I intend looking at two fish problems. These two problems are probably the most feared by marine aquarists. Those who keep a fish only aquarium could sweat a little less, but the owner of a reef aquarium can have real trouble.

The first is the so-called marine white spot, or ‘ich‘. The cause of this problem is Cyptocaryon irritans, which is a parasite. The second is marine velvet, caused by the parasite Oodinium ocellatum. On the wild reef it is possible that a fish may run into one or other of these parasites once or twice, or perhaps never. The parasitic attack will not amount to much on the wild reef because of the enormous amount of gallonage and the very large numbers of fish present. In the confines of an aquarium it is a different story - this is why.

Though there are comparatively few fish in the aquarium, per gallon there are usually a lot, particularly in a fish only system. Also the parasites are restricted to the gallons and fish available, which is obvious, but it is that which causes the major problem.

The major problem is caused by the reproductive cycle of the parasites. If a fish is introduced to the aquarium with just one parasite attached to the outer body, this is enough. The parasite usually stays on the body of the fish for one or two days with white spot, three or four days with velvet, then it encysts and falls off. It drops to the bottom or on to rocks and begins to divide into many more parasites, and this process can last for up to two weeks. The parasites then reach the free swimming stage, when they search for a new host fish. A new host must be found within about 48 hours or the parasite will die. In the confines of the aquarium a fish or more will be found. The process then begins all over again. In due course, fish can become covered in parasites which continue their reproductive cycle. Eventually, the fish are so infested they die. Then the parasites will die too, but it is too late.

How are the problems recognised? First, fortunately white spot is fairly easy to see. The fish may ’scratch’ against rocks and may have one or two or more little white pimples anywhere on the body or fins. The spots are somewhere near the size of a pinhead.

If a pimple is seen then do not immediately assume that it is white spot. Observe if it goes away as sometimes a ’pimple’ is seen that is not white spot. However, watch very carefully for any development.

Velvet is more difficult to see. Again, the fish may ‘scratch’ against rocks. It is more likely that its gill beat (respiration) will be faster. It may hold its fins closed against the body. Note that the above symptoms may or may not be present. What are looked for on the body or fins of the fish are yellowish or white/grey spots. Unfortunately, these spots are very small and can hardly be seen. Try looking at the darker coloured areas of the fish. If a fish gives the chance, use a magnifying glass. Also, the aquarist can attempt to view the fish looking directly at the head when the fish’s body is behind the head (ie. head-on) - looking down the length of the fish the tiny spots might more easily be seen - the fish could appear to have a ‘dusting’. Velvet is the more deadly of the two problems, to a large extent because of the difficulty in identifying it.

With both problems, careful observation, consideration, and action are imperative. Failure to diagnose the presence of the parasites can lead to severe problems, at the worst all fish being badly infected and many or all facing death.

If the spots are parasites, then proper treatment must be given promptly. The headline rule is: “Don‘t Panic” When the spots are diagnosed, they do not develop so quickly that care cannot be taken.

If the aquarist has a fish only aquarium, then the best thing is to deal with all the fish as a safety measure. Dealing with just the fish showing a problem using a quarantine tank will not deal with any parasites that are in the aquarium, either in the division stage or unnoticed on another fish. All the fish can be moved to a quarantine tank if desired. They will have to stay in quarantine for at least two weeks, to try to ensure that any parasites in the display aquarium that are coming out of the divisional stage or swimming are dead as they couldn’t find a host. Whatever aquarium is used, the first action is to consider UV treatment of the display aquarium. If UV equipment is not held, then it is not absolutely necessary to buy a unit. UV will help destroy the parasites in their free swimming stage, but removal of all parasites is not guaranteed, and UV does nothing to parasites that are on a fish or encysted.

The use of a copper treatment will destroy the parasites. Warning: copper is deadly to

invertebrates. Do not use copper if invertebrates are present or it is intended to introduce any in the future. Stick strictly to the manufacturer’s recommendations about copper dosage and exposure time, and ensure there is a good copper concentration test kit available.

If invertebrates are a problem then see the reef system comments below. Invertebrates will be fine, of course, if they remain in the display aquarium when treatment is done in a quarantine tank. Obviously, ensure water is not transferred from the quarantine to the display aquarium.

When treatment is over and hopefully successful, and when the treatment was in the display aquarium, use a power filter and put activated carbon in. This will take out remaining copper. Throw away the water in a quarantine aquarium - do a larger (say 25%) water change in the display aquarium.

Keep a close eye on the fish to make sure all is well.

If the aquarist has a reef aquarium, then it is clear there will be livestock present that prohibits the use of copper. As above, if a UV unit is available, activate it immediately. Consider treating the fish in a quarantine aquarium also as above. It will be more difficult catching the fish as they are going to hide in the rockwork, and the aquarist will not be keen to dismantle the reef. If it is clear the fish cannot be successfully caught, then the option is to use a reef safe treatment.

Reef safe treatments have not been shown (to my knowledge) to be as effective as copper. Even though they are termed ‘reef safe’, the manufacturer’s instructions must be strictly adhered to. It is possible that in the treatment process some corals close up because of contact with the substance, or certain types of livestock must not be present.

Once treatment has ceased activated carbon should be introduced to clean up any treatment residue, subject to the instructions that came with the treatment. A larger than normal water change is also beneficial.

There are other treatments that can be used on infected fish other than described, but these require capture of the fish and removal from the display area, so the reef aquarist faces the same problem.

The best way to avoid problems such as described above is to purchase fish with great care, and introduce them with the same care. Stress is a large factor that can cause problems because of impaired immunity. The use of a quarantine aquarium is very sensible.

To end on a positive note, and assuming that fish are carefully introduced, the chance of problems as described are reduced nowadays. The greater knowledge and practice of wild capture techniques, better transportation of fish, and more knowledgeable retail shops means purchasing a healthy fish is more likely. The aquarist is the final guard however, and must never lower the defences: careful selection, careful introduction, careful ongoing observation, stress avoidance at all times, proper nutrition, and overall high class husbandry which includes high quality seawater.

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Tags: fish-disease, fish-infection, fish-problems, marine-aquarium, marine-fish, saltwater-aquarium

Red Slime Algae And Its Control

The questions that arise about algae seem continuous, particularly those algae types that are considered a nuisance. New aquarists running a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium can be subjected to the displeasure of nuisance algae, and the methods of dealing with the problem are all basically the same with small variations.

This question mentions the word ‘red’. Red algae is wonderful, being highly decorous. It is the family Rhodophyta and can be calcareous and all sorts of shapes with varying heights. The high water quality that is more normal nowadays has made the keeping of this type of algae possible.

The picture is spoiled by the word ‘slime’. This descriptive word itself suggests undesirable, and points to Cyanobacteria (name from the microbiology world*), otherwise commonly known as blue green algae. There’s no word ‘red’ there! As I understand it, there is still a dispute among scientists on what this nuisance growth is - in the world of botany* it is known as Cyanophyta - blue green plants. It seems the life form has more in common with bacteria than plants*.

So what has all this got to do with red? Well, despite the name the algae (let’s stick to the name algae, I’m no scientist) can occur as blue green, red and black. Helpful eh! No problem though, whatever the colour appears to be the aquarist will know what it is. It appears as a very thin coating which slowly or quickly spreads. Left alone and without any remedial action being taken, it will spread and cover sand and rocks. Life below will die. So obviously it is not wanted. Another description is smear algae, which describes it well.

So what weapons are at the disposal of the aquarist? Here we go again - high water quality! If any of this algae is spotted the aquarist should check the levels of nitrate and phosphate in the seawater. High nutrient levels are normally the major cause. Reduce the nutrients by not overfeeding and carrying out routine water changes. The lack of nutrients will starve the algae, but it will not disappear instantly. The good news is that this smear algae can be siphoned out of the aquarium fairly easily, so this procedure can be carried out at a water change. As time progresses, it could re-appear, so water changing and siphoning could continue for a while (routine water changing should continue of course).

In addition to the above, to prevent re-occurrence the aquarist should check the water circulation for two reasons. First, the algae does not like good water movement (because it is not adhered strongly?) and, second, good water circulation will mean efficient gas exchange. If gas exchange is good, then the seawater will have a high oxygen content and a high redox potential. The algae doesn’t do so well in this clean environment.

So the plan of attack is straightforward.

(*Reference: Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch - Marine Atlas)

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Tags: Algae, algae-control, algae-eaters, brown-algae, green-algae, red-algae

Hair Algae And How To Control It

Mention the word algae to a marine aquarist and the first thought is usually ‘marine nightmare’. Hair algae usually meets this criteria. It is unloved and unwanted. Strange to think that in the very early days of the marine aquarium the aquarist would be pleased to see the algae growth as it would improve the water quality by feeding on nutrients. Under good lighting, the algae also produces a lot of oxygen. That was true and still is, but nowadays all the aquarist wants is rid of it, or at least the excess growth. There are better ways of maintaining water quality.

The hair algae discussed here is also known as filamentous green algae. That is because it grows, if allowed, in large groups with long very thin and flexible ’leaves’. It is a hardy algae and can spread quite alarmingly, causing trouble in a reef aquarium and potentially in a fish only aquarium.

So how can this nuisance algae be controlled. ’Prevention is better than cure’ is a well known saying and without doubt it is applicable here.

This algae requires nutrients to prosper, as do all living things. The major nutrients that concern the aquarist are phosphate (PO4) and nitrate (NO3). A reef aquarium should have a nitrate level of 10 ppm (parts per million) or less, probably best as undetectable. Phosphate should be 0.03 ppm or less, preferably undetectable. The fish only aquarium should have levels as low as possible, though these may be inevitably higher because of a bigger bio-load, that is, more fish.

The obvious first move is to deny the algae the nutrients. It is a very good thing that from the very start the aquarist uses R/O (reverse osmosis) water. This will ensure that the initial fill, routine water changes and make up water are as pure as possible. If the aquarium is already up and running, it is advisable to begin using R/O water for top-ups and routine water changes.

The aquarist may well state with justification that the aquarium filtration employed is live rock, and that will deal with nitrate. Correct, it will, if present in sufficient quantity and quality. However, all things have limits, and over feeding and/or overloading the bio-filtration will result in nutrients.

A major source of nutrients is feeding, particularly with beginners. Feeding the fish is a most enjoyable task, and at the same time the aquarist is concerned that the fish have enough. There is a danger that excess food will enter the seawater and it will not be consumed. It will break down and nitrate will appear. Phosphate also is mainly introduced with food. Prepared marine flakes are not specially processed and do produce nutrients despite the early and incorrect assumptions of some new aquarists. It is clear that feeding should be a disciplined affair, enough being fed but without excess. Fish can consume enough food, but their instinct is to ‘grab it while its there’, and some food can pass through the gut semi digested.

If the aquarist finds that the nitrate and/or phosphate level is higher than desired and has critically examined the feeding discipline, is sure the bio-filtration is not overloaded, and is carrying out routine water changes, then there are further means to assist in dealing with the algae. One or a combination may be effective.

Nutrient Reduction By Filter.

Phosphate can be reduced by using an anti-phosphate resin in a filter, often called a reactor. The phosphate is absorbed and is therefore removed from the seawater. Nitrate can be reduced by use of a filter where certain media is used and kept in a very low oxygen condition. Bacteria extract oxygen from the nitrate and break it down.

Nutrient Reduction By Sump.

A sump can be used to house a deep sand bed (DSB) which will act as a filter, and in addition the macro-algae Caulerpa can be grown in the sump. The Caulerpa will use nitrate and phosphate itself and thus compete with the filamentous algae. When there is sufficient Caulerpa the filamentous algae will be starved of nutrients.

There is another way to deal with the nuisance algae. The nutrient levels should be reduced as far as is possible, but the hardy hairy stuff may persist! If this is the case, then lets use the algae as a food.

Predation By Fish.

The aquarist can introduce certain types of fish to eat the algae. Theoretically, an equilibrium could be obtained, the fish eating the algae, producing nutrients, and the algae re-growing to be eaten again. This is more difficult than it sounds. The aquarist must beware of overloading the bio-filtration and overcrowding the aquarium. Any algae eating fish should be introduced slowly, one at a time, and regard given to their eventual size and compatibility with current livestock. Two types of fish that could be of use are the surgeon fish and rabbit fish families. The latter are generally more hardy.

Predation By Snails, Urchins, and Hermit crabs.

These are very useful in the struggle with nuisance algae. In this topic, the algae is the filamentous type and it is clearly very important to properly research the life forms to ensure that they will in fact eat the algae type. Again, although there is less of a concern with overloading the bio-filtration, introduce them slowly and observe the affect on the algae. More can always be introduced. If too many are introduced initially, then the excess are going to die, definitely not wanted.

So there are ways to battle the nuisance filamentous algae. Nutrient level control is always the first thing to achieve. Then other considerations can be given. The algae seems to be able to hang on despite the loss of food, but it will slowly reduce. If full control cannot be achieved, then using it as a food source for fish etc is another option.

Finally, that requirement of all marine aquarists should be mentioned - patience!

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Tags: Algae, Aquarium Filtration, aquarium-nutrients, marine-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium

Natural Algae Control - Does It Work?

This question is posed by many aquarists, whether their pride and joy is a reef aquarium or fish only aquarium. Algae can be a terrific addition to the system, if the aquarist wants it.

Algae can be a friend to the aquarist, either in the sump or even the display aquarium, in the control of nitrates and phosphates. Caulerpa is the type normally used for this purpose. Encrusting calcareous algae is also a welcome addition, as it appears in lovely colours and enhances the display. Algae can also be a pain, in some cases causing the aquarist to nearly tear his/her hair out.

The very first point when discussing algae control is that the seawater should be of high quality, with very low measurements of nitrate and phosphate. Nitrate should be below 10ppm (parts per million) particularly in a reef system, (a fish only system can go somewhat higher but levels should be minimised) and phosphate not higher than 0.03ppm. It is probably better that the levels are undetectable. Nitrate and phosphate are known nuisance algae nutrients. To assist desirable calcareous algae, calcium and alkalinity should be controlled. In a hard reef aquarium, calcium will be probably added, but other systems can benefit from around 400ppm or higher as well. Alkalinity can be kept at a level (it will fluctuate) of 3.0 to 4.0 meq/l - this is higher than natural seawater but is advantageous.
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Tags: Algae, algae-control, algae-eaters, brown-algae, green-algae, red-algae

What Is The Best Algae Eater?

That is a difficult question, and one which I cannot directly answer because most algae eaters have a type they are most fond of and many of these creatures may well ignore other types. What needs to be done is consider the algae that is causing a problem and hopefully choose a creature to eat it.

The first creatures to consider are fish. Many fish are herbivorous and continue this habit in the aquarium. With some fish algae is an essential, and a lack of it could cause health problems. The numbers of herbivorous fish are too high to go through one by one, but two in particular will be very generally mentioned, using their common group name.
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Why Does Coralline Algae Sometimes Turn White

Coralline algae, in my opinion make the rock within a saltwater aquarium look more natural as well as adding a differing type of colour to the aquarium.

The colour of coralline algae is normally a deep red/purple however there are various colour variations which may occur.

So what can make coralline algae sometimes turn white?
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How To Increase The Amount Of Coralline Algae In The Saltwater Aquarium

When you start a saltwater aquarium and have purchased your live rock or whatever decorations you are going to use then there will probably not be that much coralline algae in the system (especially if you have chosen not to use live rock!)

If you are using live rock then dependant upon the quality of the live rock you should have some coralline algae of some type or other.

So how do you increase the amount of coralline algae in the aquarium or in some cases add coralline algae.
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Tags: Algae, aquarium-algae, coralline-algae, live-rock, saltwater-aquarium

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