Red Slime Algae And Its Control
January 9, 2008
The questions that arise about algae seem continuous, particularly those algae types that are considered a nuisance. New aquarists running a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium can be subjected to the displeasure of nuisance algae, and the methods of dealing with the problem are all basically the same with small variations.
This question mentions the word ‘red’. Red algae is wonderful, being highly decorous. It is the family Rhodophyta and can be calcareous and all sorts of shapes with varying heights. The high water quality that is more normal nowadays has made the keeping of this type of algae possible.
The picture is spoiled by the word ‘slime’. This descriptive word itself suggests undesirable, and points to Cyanobacteria (name from the microbiology world*), otherwise commonly known as blue green algae. There’s no word ‘red’ there! As I understand it, there is still a dispute among scientists on what this nuisance growth is - in the world of botany* it is known as Cyanophyta - blue green plants. It seems the life form has more in common with bacteria than plants*.
So what has all this got to do with red? Well, despite the name the algae (let’s stick to the name algae, I’m no scientist) can occur as blue green, red and black. Helpful eh! No problem though, whatever the colour appears to be the aquarist will know what it is. It appears as a very thin coating which slowly or quickly spreads. Left alone and without any remedial action being taken, it will spread and cover sand and rocks. Life below will die. So obviously it is not wanted. Another description is smear algae, which describes it well.
So what weapons are at the disposal of the aquarist? Here we go again - high water quality! If any of this algae is spotted the aquarist should check the levels of nitrate and phosphate in the seawater. High nutrient levels are normally the major cause. Reduce the nutrients by not overfeeding and carrying out routine water changes. The lack of nutrients will starve the algae, but it will not disappear instantly. The good news is that this smear algae can be siphoned out of the aquarium fairly easily, so this procedure can be carried out at a water change. As time progresses, it could re-appear, so water changing and siphoning could continue for a while (routine water changing should continue of course).
In addition to the above, to prevent re-occurrence the aquarist should check the water circulation for two reasons. First, the algae does not like good water movement (because it is not adhered strongly?) and, second, good water circulation will mean efficient gas exchange. If gas exchange is good, then the seawater will have a high oxygen content and a high redox potential. The algae doesn’t do so well in this clean environment.
So the plan of attack is straightforward.
(*Reference: Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch - Marine Atlas)
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Tags: Algae, algae-control, algae-eaters, brown-algae, green-algae, red-algaeHair Algae And How To Control It
January 2, 2008
Mention the word algae to a marine aquarist and the first thought is usually ‘marine nightmare’. Hair algae usually meets this criteria. It is unloved and unwanted. Strange to think that in the very early days of the marine aquarium the aquarist would be pleased to see the algae growth as it would improve the water quality by feeding on nutrients. Under good lighting, the algae also produces a lot of oxygen. That was true and still is, but nowadays all the aquarist wants is rid of it, or at least the excess growth. There are better ways of maintaining water quality.
The hair algae discussed here is also known as filamentous green algae. That is because it grows, if allowed, in large groups with long very thin and flexible ’leaves’. It is a hardy algae and can spread quite alarmingly, causing trouble in a reef aquarium and potentially in a fish only aquarium.
So how can this nuisance algae be controlled. ’Prevention is better than cure’ is a well known saying and without doubt it is applicable here.
This algae requires nutrients to prosper, as do all living things. The major nutrients that concern the aquarist are phosphate (PO4) and nitrate (NO3). A reef aquarium should have a nitrate level of 10 ppm (parts per million) or less, probably best as undetectable. Phosphate should be 0.03 ppm or less, preferably undetectable. The fish only aquarium should have levels as low as possible, though these may be inevitably higher because of a bigger bio-load, that is, more fish.
The obvious first move is to deny the algae the nutrients. It is a very good thing that from the very start the aquarist uses R/O (reverse osmosis) water. This will ensure that the initial fill, routine water changes and make up water are as pure as possible. If the aquarium is already up and running, it is advisable to begin using R/O water for top-ups and routine water changes.
The aquarist may well state with justification that the aquarium filtration employed is live rock, and that will deal with nitrate. Correct, it will, if present in sufficient quantity and quality. However, all things have limits, and over feeding and/or overloading the bio-filtration will result in nutrients.
A major source of nutrients is feeding, particularly with beginners. Feeding the fish is a most enjoyable task, and at the same time the aquarist is concerned that the fish have enough. There is a danger that excess food will enter the seawater and it will not be consumed. It will break down and nitrate will appear. Phosphate also is mainly introduced with food. Prepared marine flakes are not specially processed and do produce nutrients despite the early and incorrect assumptions of some new aquarists. It is clear that feeding should be a disciplined affair, enough being fed but without excess. Fish can consume enough food, but their instinct is to ‘grab it while its there’, and some food can pass through the gut semi digested.
If the aquarist finds that the nitrate and/or phosphate level is higher than desired and has critically examined the feeding discipline, is sure the bio-filtration is not overloaded, and is carrying out routine water changes, then there are further means to assist in dealing with the algae. One or a combination may be effective.
Nutrient Reduction By Filter.
Phosphate can be reduced by using an anti-phosphate resin in a filter, often called a reactor. The phosphate is absorbed and is therefore removed from the seawater. Nitrate can be reduced by use of a filter where certain media is used and kept in a very low oxygen condition. Bacteria extract oxygen from the nitrate and break it down.
Nutrient Reduction By Sump.
A sump can be used to house a deep sand bed (DSB) which will act as a filter, and in addition the macro-algae Caulerpa can be grown in the sump. The Caulerpa will use nitrate and phosphate itself and thus compete with the filamentous algae. When there is sufficient Caulerpa the filamentous algae will be starved of nutrients.
There is another way to deal with the nuisance algae. The nutrient levels should be reduced as far as is possible, but the hardy hairy stuff may persist! If this is the case, then lets use the algae as a food.
Predation By Fish.
The aquarist can introduce certain types of fish to eat the algae. Theoretically, an equilibrium could be obtained, the fish eating the algae, producing nutrients, and the algae re-growing to be eaten again. This is more difficult than it sounds. The aquarist must beware of overloading the bio-filtration and overcrowding the aquarium. Any algae eating fish should be introduced slowly, one at a time, and regard given to their eventual size and compatibility with current livestock. Two types of fish that could be of use are the surgeon fish and rabbit fish families. The latter are generally more hardy.
Predation By Snails, Urchins, and Hermit crabs.
These are very useful in the struggle with nuisance algae. In this topic, the algae is the filamentous type and it is clearly very important to properly research the life forms to ensure that they will in fact eat the algae type. Again, although there is less of a concern with overloading the bio-filtration, introduce them slowly and observe the affect on the algae. More can always be introduced. If too many are introduced initially, then the excess are going to die, definitely not wanted.
So there are ways to battle the nuisance filamentous algae. Nutrient level control is always the first thing to achieve. Then other considerations can be given. The algae seems to be able to hang on despite the loss of food, but it will slowly reduce. If full control cannot be achieved, then using it as a food source for fish etc is another option.
Finally, that requirement of all marine aquarists should be mentioned - patience!
Tags: Algae, Aquarium Filtration, aquarium-nutrients, marine-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium
Natural Algae Control - Does It Work?
December 4, 2007
This question is posed by many aquarists, whether their pride and joy is a reef aquarium or fish only aquarium. Algae can be a terrific addition to the system, if the aquarist wants it.
Algae can be a friend to the aquarist, either in the sump or even the display aquarium, in the control of nitrates and phosphates. Caulerpa is the type normally used for this purpose. Encrusting calcareous algae is also a welcome addition, as it appears in lovely colours and enhances the display. Algae can also be a pain, in some cases causing the aquarist to nearly tear his/her hair out.
The very first point when discussing algae control is that the seawater should be of high quality, with very low measurements of nitrate and phosphate. Nitrate should be below 10ppm (parts per million) particularly in a reef system, (a fish only system can go somewhat higher but levels should be minimised) and phosphate not higher than 0.03ppm. It is probably better that the levels are undetectable. Nitrate and phosphate are known nuisance algae nutrients. To assist desirable calcareous algae, calcium and alkalinity should be controlled. In a hard reef aquarium, calcium will be probably added, but other systems can benefit from around 400ppm or higher as well. Alkalinity can be kept at a level (it will fluctuate) of 3.0 to 4.0 meq/l - this is higher than natural seawater but is advantageous.
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What Is The Best Algae Eater?
November 6, 2007
That is a difficult question, and one which I cannot directly answer because most algae eaters have a type they are most fond of and many of these creatures may well ignore other types. What needs to be done is consider the algae that is causing a problem and hopefully choose a creature to eat it.
The first creatures to consider are fish. Many fish are herbivorous and continue this habit in the aquarium. With some fish algae is an essential, and a lack of it could cause health problems. The numbers of herbivorous fish are too high to go through one by one, but two in particular will be very generally mentioned, using their common group name.
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Why Does Coralline Algae Sometimes Turn White
October 29, 2007
Coralline algae, in my opinion make the rock within a saltwater aquarium look more natural as well as adding a differing type of colour to the aquarium.
The colour of coralline algae is normally a deep red/purple however there are various colour variations which may occur.
So what can make coralline algae sometimes turn white?
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How To Increase The Amount Of Coralline Algae In The Saltwater Aquarium
October 22, 2007
When you start a saltwater aquarium and have purchased your live rock or whatever decorations you are going to use then there will probably not be that much coralline algae in the system (especially if you have chosen not to use live rock!)
If you are using live rock then dependant upon the quality of the live rock you should have some coralline algae of some type or other.
So how do you increase the amount of coralline algae in the aquarium or in some cases add coralline algae.
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Remember To Harvest The Algae In The Algae Bed
October 21, 2007
In a saltwater aquarium it is preferential to have both nitrates and phosphate as well as various other nutrients at the lowest possible level you can achieve.
Growing algae in the sump or in the refugium is an excellent way to remove nutrients from the water column, good examples which are nitrate and phosphate.
Once established the algae in the sump/refugium can reduce the nutrients to a very low level.
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