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The Powder Blue Surgeon

July 4, 2009

This surgeonfish is commonly called the powder blue though the proper name is Acanthurus leucosternon.

The fish is very attractive but should not be found in just any aquarium. For example, it would be wrong and cruel to have one in my reef as the aquarium is too small, and in addition the reef takes up too much of the free seawater space available for swimming making that too small. Many would say the fish should not be kept in an aquarium of less than 5ft (circa 152.5cm) by 2ft (circa 61cm) by 2ft. Subject to the fish load and the available swimming space it could be reasonable to bring the length of the aquarium down to 4ft (circa 122cm). Again the rockwork should leave plenty of swimming space for the fish. There is a further point and that is that in all aquariums the growth potential must be considered. When purchased the fish is likely to be fairly small but, in the wild at least, it has the potential to grow to about 12 inches (circa 30.5cm). It can be seen why larger aquariums are best for this fish.

To keep the fish healthy and happy it is important that seawater is kept at high quality, which is a requirement for any system anyway. Also as in any system, it is important to ensure the seawater is as oxygen rich as possible. This is done by ensuring that seawater movement is optimum so that air/water interfaces are fully efficient.

Only one powder blue should be kept in an aquarium as they could be, and usually are, aggressive and territorial. Further, the fish could take exception to any other surgeon fish present in the aquarium particularly another blue one (of any shade). The fish may even take exception to any other largish blue fish, surgeon or not. It has also been advised that butterflies could be attacked.

So it sounds as if the powder blue is a fish to be avoided. Not really, there are many aquarists who have found keeping one has not caused unfortunate problems. Environment and selection of suitable tank mates is very important, and it could be a good idea to introduce the powder blue to the tank as one of the final additions.

Initial selection of the fish is very important, as it is with all livestock. Time should be taken to ensure the fish is in good health with nothing present that could cause any questions to arise.

Feeding does not present any problems at all. The fish will readily accept the general fare that is offered most other fishes, such as de-frozen food and flake. However, in the wild they feed nearly entirely on algae and so it follows that in captivity algae should be available. In most aquariums the natural algae growth will be insufficient and therefore commercial produce is required. This could be in the form of dried Nori algae, for example, which comes in sheets. The sheet can be reduced in size if necessary and hung in the aquarium on a lettuce clip for the fish to eat. Any uneaten or loose Nori should not be left too long but removed and replaced with fresh. It is likely that if the sheet remains fixed in place it will be eaten, especially if there are other algae eaters present. The aquarist can soon judge the correct amount needed.

There are some marine fish that clearly let the aquarist know how they are feeling by their colouration and the powder blue is one of them. If the fish is a fairly deep blue and the head black then the fish is fine and happy. If the blue has turned pale and the usually black head grayish then the fish is off-colour (sorry, pun not intended! I should have said not well). Check for correct diet and enough of it, seawater quality and any sign of disease. In a high quality environment the fish is reasonably trouble free.

Assuming that the powder blue is not exposed to disease problems and is homed in a suitable situation it adds movement, shape and colour to the aquarist’s collection. Longevity should be good too.

The link provides some pictures of the powder blue, placing the mouse pointer on a picture enlarges it:

http://www.whatsthatfish.com/fish/396

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The Dusky Dwarf

June 30, 2009

There are so many fish that could tempt an aquarist but many of them have an attribute or two that means they cannot be chosen.

One of the most beautiful fish types are the angels, for example the emperor angel (Pomacanthus imperator) and the queen angel (Holacanthus ciliaris). These are certainly beautiful but cannot be kept by many aquarists because they grow too large.

So the aquarist with a smaller aquarium has to ignore angelfish? Well, no fortunately not. There are some angelfish that are suited to smaller systems and are also beautiful. These angels are generally termed ‘dwarf’ and there are some really stunning ones. Surely the flame angelfish (Centropyge loriculus) is well known. There are a good few others.

The angel referred to in the title is commonly called the dusky angelfish or coral beauty, the proper name is Centropyge bispinosus.

As with other dwarf angels there isn’t a problem with eventual size as fully grown the fish could be around 4 inches (circa 10cm). On purchase the fish are likely to be in the region of 2 inches (circa 5cm). The fish should not be kept with others of its own kind as usually aggression will occur. It has been known for two dwarf angels to be kept in a smallish aquarium together without mishap but this is unusual and best avoided. If an attempt is to be made to keep two Centropyge types the two fish should differ in size and colouration. In particular, the aquarium should be large with plenty of rockwork which affords the fish many retreats and possibilities of territory. The dusky angel will usually settle down with other suitable fish without problem, though larger more aggressive fish could cause difficulty. Overall the fish is mainly peaceful but aggression could appear from time to time, though nothing usually comes of it.

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/marine/angels/CoralBeauty.php

As can be seen from the link picture the fish is lovely, though photographs don’t really do it justice. The colouration is not so much ‘in the face’ as, say, a flame angel’s, though lovely nevertheless. The colouration can vary a little, some fish are subdued and dusky, others brighter and more striking.

Keeping the fish is reasonably straightforward without any particular requirements except one. This is that though the fish is a general omnivore it should have access to algae. The fish likes to take algae from the aquarium viewing glass and rock surfaces but cannot be considered as a good algae controller. The overall diet should be varied even with algae present, consisting of marine flake, de-frozen brine and mysis shrimp and similar. Food enriched with spirulina algae is a good idea. As always seawater quality should be high. There should be rockwork installed that permits the fish to find a cave or similar for security. The fish is suitable for a reef system though like many fish it could nip at fan worms and possibly even some corals. Usually it is well behaved but there could be exceptions!

The fish when kept in a good environment is considered to be reasonably hardy. However, some aquarists consider it not to be an ideal beginner’s fish as some experience is needed first. This is because of the early mistakes, usually to do with seawater quality that a beginner could make.

Adding one of these fish to a suitable display will not disappoint the aquarist. As stated elsewhere by an unknown source, the dwarf angels are God’s gift to aquarists. It is easy to see why.

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The Royal Gramma

June 25, 2009

Mother Nature provides some really lovely life forms; they come in all sorts of shapes and colours. Fish are usually the number one life form for the marine aquarist (for others is it perhaps corals?).

One fish that is an excellent addition to many aquariums, fish only or reef, is the Royal Gramma which is the common name, the proper name is Gramma loreto. In my opinion they are often better on a reef as the usually lower fish population means these systems are less ‘busy’. However, note that the fish could be ‘nippy’ with some other type tank mates such as snails and possibly feather dusters. When I had one of these it definitely added colour, and when the scene was lit by actinics alone this was considerably enhanced.

This is one of those fish that nature has painted differently at the front and back. From roughly mid-section it is yellow including the tail, and forward of this is purple/blue. There is a dark diagonal line through the eye and also a dark spot on the dorsal fin. The fish is capable of growing to about 4 inches (circa 10cm) including the tail, though it is usually smaller on purchase.

Once settled the fish is not bothered by bright light and should be seen quite regularly. It is also happy under lower light levels. However, for the fish to feel secure it is necessary for caves and crevices to be built into the rockwork, which is applicable to many fish.

A potential problem is that the fish has been known to jump; perhaps this is an escape ploy. It would seem reasonable to assume that if there are crevices and caves available for security, then jumping is less likely.

The fish defends itself by a display of aggression when it faces the opposition with its mouth wide open. The fish is not particularly aggressive normally (unlike for example many damsels) and is best kept with other small relatively non-aggressive fish, but avoid dotty-backs as trouble could occur.

Usually it is best to keep one fish, though in a larger reef aquarium with plenty of territory and hideaways it could be possible to keep two.

Where a high quality environment is maintained the fish is easy to keep (in marine terms) and resistant to disease, so a reasonably long life could be expected. When the fish is first introduced to the aquarium it could well be choosy about food and not eat a lot, which is always a worry with a new fish. However, this period should soon pass and the fish should eat almost anything, including marine flake and de-frozen foods.

Aquarists are always observant and could become worried if the Royal Gramma is seen upside down in a cave. This isn’t usually a problem indicator; perhaps it is linked to spawning behavior (I’m not aware of any proven reason).

In a suitable environment the Royal Gramma is a great fish to keep with its colours and peaceable disposition - in addition, the fish is hardy and easy to feed. So overall the fish represents a winning combination.

The link is to further information about the fish and also photographs:

http://www.fishlore.com/Profiles_Fairy_Basslet.htm

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The Yellow Tang

June 16, 2009

This fish is one recognized by all marine aquarists; it is very popular and commonly kept. If a splash of colour is required then this is one of the fish to consider, it attracts the eye like a magnet does metal.

The fish is properly called Zebrasoma flavescens. It is yellow all over apart from a small white area in front of the tail; this is the ‘scalpel’.

The yellow tang could grow to 7½ inches (circa 19cm). As with all fish of this type it is not for every aquarist as swimming space is required. A small aquarium is not a home for it; a suggested minimum size is 3ft (circa 91.5cm) by 1.5ft (circa 45.75cm) by 1.5ft though larger is better. If the reef structure is large this will reduce the swimming space, so even if the aquarium itself seems large enough the actual free seawater space needs to be checked.

The yellow tang is reputedly one of the hardiest of the surgeon fishes. Of course high quality seawater needs to be provided at all times. Tank mates should be compatible though even so aggression could appear, but usually with needs properly met they are peaceable enough.

Feeding these fish is not difficult, they will usually take marine flake and de-frozen foods. However, it is essential that they receive adequate amounts of algae. In the aquarium some of this could be provided by natural growth and in this way the fish is useful in keeping algae down - it should eat filamentous algae. Aquarium algae are not normally present in sufficient quantity so the aquarist needs to provide the food in other ways. One of the best methods is to purchase sheets of dried algae such as Nori. One sheet or a part of it can be held in place by an aquarium clip and left. The fish should eat it enthusiastically. It is suggested that algae is fed at least every other day, though many aquarists place the food in the aquarium everyday to ensure the fish can take it at will - any sheet algae that breaks free should be re-fixed or removed and any uneaten after a full day removed.

Brightness and colour are usually present in a marine aquarium and this fish has them plus another, movement. Properly cared for they should ‘live long and prosper’.

The video gives information on care of the yellow tang. For those who want to see a photo of the fish click on the link.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zebrasoma_flavescens_Luc_Viatour.jpg

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The Bubble Coral

June 14, 2009

This coral adds to all the differing shapes and colours of corals that could be added to the reef aquarium. It belongs to the stony or hard coral type.

Besides bubble coral other common names are octocoral, bladder and grape coral. The proper name is Plerogyra sinuosa. It is not difficult to obtain and if seen in a store is easily recognized, as the name implies it is covered in inflated fairly large bubbles (or bladders or grapes). On sight the coral appears to be delicate but they are fairly tough. Nevertheless, handling and placement need some care.

The coral is often roundish with the bubbles emerging from the upper surfaces. The bubbles are inflated and it is reported could expand up to around 500%, leaving the wall of the bubble the thickness of one zooxanthellae.* Quite thin then!

The coral is expanded during daylight hours. At night the bubbles retract and tentacles appear which are used for feeding.

As already said some care is needed with handling and placement. Though the coral is tougher than it looks, handling should be minimized (as with all corals) and the chosen place on the reef should not be close to sharp pointed or edged rocks in case of damage to the coral, the bubbles could rub against the adjacent rocks in seawater currents. Ensure the coral is secure; a fall could damage it and lead to infection. The coral can be placed nearly anywhere on the reef as it does not require powerful lighting, however strong lighting does not appear to cause any trouble once acclimatized. A newly purchased coral should not be immediately exposed to very powerful light as they may have been used to low light in the wild and the stronger light could shock and damage it, so it is best to keep overly powerful light off the coral anyway. Reef quality lighting (spectrum) is required because of the zooxanthellae, it could be possible that the size of the bubbles is controlled by it, the lower the lighting strength the larger the bubbles to ensure there is enough light. What does mainly limit potential position is the strength of the seawater current, this should not be strong or the bubbles will be too violently shaken or will not expand to their fullest. The best seawater current strength is low to moderate. A final point on placement - it is capable of extending quite potent sweeper tentacles which could attack and damage adjacent corals, so maintain a good space between it and any neighbours. This is good practice with corals anyway.

The coral is not overly striking in colour as some are; though the colours vary they are not bright. This is not to say the coral is not attractive, it certainly is. It could be green, ivory, cream or white and some have bubbles that have clear colourless narrow stripes on them.

This coral does not present any feeding problems; there isn’t any need for suspension feeding. A small piece of de-frosted fish or similar can be gently placed on the coral and will be taken in, what could be easier? The coral is easy to feed and sometimes is overfed because of it. One feeding every other day, or longer intervals according to experience should suffice.

The bubble coral should not present any difficulty even to a moderately experienced aquarist, provided that seawater quality is high and attention is given to proper placement on the reef with regard to seawater current strength, security and lighting. The coral is yet another variation that Mother Nature has evolved which can be an attractive and interesting addition to a reef aquarium.

(*Reference: Aquarium Corals. Eric H. Borneman)

The first link is to photographs, click on it to enlarge. The second is a short video.

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Plerogyra+sinuosa&x=53&y=8

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The Clown Trigger Fish

June 12, 2009

Though it is regularly seen in public aquariums, this fish is not commonly kept by aquarists. It is successfully kept by a good many nonetheless.

Seeing this fish in a local fish shop or anywhere else is an experience, the shape, the colours, it is really something. Anytime I see one anywhere I spend quite some time looking.

The fish is commonly known as the clown trigger and properly called Balistoides conspicilum. Why is it called ‘trigger’? This is because of the dorsal fin, for security the fish can go into a rock crevice and raise the dorsal fin, the second spine locks it in place. To release itself the fish exerts pressure on this second spine - the trigger - freeing the locking mechanism.

These fish are not suited to a reef aquarium as they could make a meal of mobile invertebrates and maybe some sessile invertebrates as well. As a snack, if the clown trigger can catch smaller fish it could eat them too. This would really please the aquarist! In addition, the fish could decide that the carefully placed reef rocks need re-arranging, again not an action that will endear it to the aquarist. Another reason is that the fish needs a lot of swimming space and in most reef systems the reef takes up a great deal of seawater volume.

So it is clear the fish is suited to the larger fish only system. Those with small and medium aquariums should not attempt to keep the fish as it could grow to 20 inches (circa 50.75cm). Many clown trigger fish being sold in stores are small, often only 3 or 4 inches, so growth must be allowed for.  An aquarium of 100 gallons (circa 400 litres) net or larger is the size needed. This is a large system as the fish requires rocks that form caves so that it can find security, these rocks of course reduce net seawater gallonage. The rocks should be firmly positioned so that they will resist any attempted design changes. On the same theme, heaters that are in the display aquarium should have guards fitted; these are generally available and not expensive. In a fish only aquarium a sump is a definite advantage as first it provides an area where heaters can be placed out of harm’s way and secondly it increases the net gallonage of the system. It should be remembered though that when stocking is considered the seawater in the sump is ignored.

Stocking the aquarium needs care. The clown trigger is very territorial and will take exception to another trigger in their area (the aquarium!) and could do the same with other large fish. Designed for dealing with crabs and other prey with shells, the teeth of the fish give the impression that it is not for messing with. So the fish should only be kept with other large or larger very robust ones that are well able to take care of themselves. These other fish should be of a different colour and shape.

Clearly if the aquarist wishes to keep a fish only aquarium with a high number of varied fish types, the clown trigger is not a fish to choose.

When introducing fish to the aquarium for the first time the clown trigger should be the last one in, this creates the chance for all the fish to ‘accept’ each other. It is also very helpful if, on introduction, the clown trigger is smaller than all other fish present. On no account should the aquarium be overstocked.

An aquarist could introduce the fish and find that it is impeccably behaved and wonder what on earth all the cautions were about. Another aquarist could find the fish a total berserker! So it’s best to be prepared.

Feeding is easy as the fish will take just about anything on offer, though for a fish such as this brine shrimp and flake are a bit of an insult! Pieces of de-frozen fish, mussel meat, shrimp and the like are foods usually taken without problem. The fish is confident and can be fed from the fingers, but beware of those teeth, an aquarist can be forgiven for being nervous! It has been reported that hard shelled food should be given on occasion as this wears the teeth. The fish becomes quite tame and if movement is detected near the aquarium it will usually beg for food.

Over time the fish will be seen nearly all of the daytime hours in open water and becomes a real pet and a favourite. They are very hardy and long lived if attention is given to maintaining a high quality environment.

The aquarist who can provide a suitable environment for the clown trigger is lucky indeed. 

The link is to some pictures and text:

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/marinefish/clowntriggerfish.php

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The Feather Duster Worm

June 10, 2009

Reef aquariums could be home to many life forms. One of these is the obvious, fish, in many aquariums these are small and inoffensive, and in bigger systems larger varieties could find a place. The major consideration with fish is that they are reef friendly.

Quite apart from fish there are many varieties of life. As the systems in this case are reefs the next is corals, both hard and soft. The corals are really what make the display a reef, the rocks may be ‘live’ and there may be fish flitting about, but it is the corals that make the picture.

Seen less are sponges as these are considered difficult by many aquarists and therefore they are not always attempted. It is reported that many sponges are not as difficult to keep as imagined, but their demise is often because of poor collection when damage is caused or when the sponge is allowed to come into contact with air. Algae can be another sponge enemy.

A spectacular life form that could be kept in a reef aquarium is a worm. Not just a worm though, this one is a real show off. The worm lives in a tube and is considered very attractive because of the head of feathery tentacles that appear. They are expanded into the seawater in order to trap food. The expanded tentacles do look similar to the old fashioned dust mop or feather duster that tackled cobwebs etc in days of old.

The worm is understandably commonly called the feather duster worm, or sometimes the peacock worm. The proper name for arguably the best is Sabellastarte magnifica. Feather dusters are common in warm seas and are usually easily obtained from local fish shops.

The tube extends from the rubble or rocks but all of it is not usually in sight. The tube could be up to 6 inches in length and the extended tentacle crown could be between 2 and 3 inches in diameter. The worm slowly extends the tentacles often stopping during the process and if everything seems fine the tentacles are completely extended. As they fully emerge they open up into the distinctive head.

The worm doesn’t appreciate strong seawater currents because of the head. If the current is too strong the worm could withdraw back into the tube. It is best to locate the tube in an area where only slight to moderate currents exist.

If a worm is seen to be hanging listlessly out of the tube it is likely to be dying.

When the tube with the worm within is first introduced to the aquarium the proper acclimatization technique should be applied. During this period it is best to ensure the tube is not exposed to air at all. Once the worm is ready for transfer the tube can be placed securely between rocks being careful not to crush it, when the worm is active it should adjust any faulty anchorage. Place the worm as said in an area of light to moderate currents, and lower down on the reef particularly if the lighting is powerful. The worm hasn’t any need for lighting as corals have. A worm that is positioned in bright light could be slow to appear until it is accustomed to it. It is reported that the worms do not like high temperatures - a top temperature of 76 deg F is sometimes quoted, though I kept one at 77 deg F for a long time.

Sometimes an aquarist can be alarmed as the worm drops its crown of tentacles. This could have been caused by stress produced by too high a temperature, excessive and sudden seawater currents, too large a change in seawater specific gravity or harassment. The first three are easily avoided. Harassment is avoided by ensuring that only suitable tank mates are present. Many common reef fish, such as damsels, dwarf angels etc could nibble at the worm’s tentacles. There are more that could cause a problem. Fish such as the copper-band butterfly (Chelmon rostratus) should be avoided. The best fish to keep with the tubeworm are small dottybacks, fairy baslets, gobies, blennies and the like. The worm can disappear into its tube at a terrific speed thus avoiding trouble, but repeated occurrences of this lead to stress. Once any problem has been corrected leave the worm alone. It could take a longish period to re-appear, and they are capable of re-growing a crown.

The tube worm feeds on very small plankton in the wild. In the aquarium once the worm has been given time to settle and is displaying its full crown of tentacles it can be target fed. Using a small syringe-like device, a small amount of fine filter-feeder food can be ejected ‘upstream’ and allowed to drift over the tentacles. If necessary seawater movement pumps can be temporarily turned off though this should not be necessary. It is best not to squirt the food straight at the tentacles or it is likely the worm will withdraw them believing danger is present. In an aquarium where there are many other filter feeders the food shouldn’t go to waste and the seawater quality shouldn’t be affected.

Looking at the suggested fish companions for the worm it seems the ideal home would be a nano aquarium. In these small systems it is usual to keep smaller inoffensive fish. The worm can successfully be kept in a large system subject to the other inhabitants, which means a lot of discipline could need to be applied by the aquarist.

The feather duster worm is a different and very interesting addition to a captive reef. Below is a short video.

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