The Bubble Coral
June 14, 2009
This coral adds to all the differing shapes and colours of corals that could be added to the reef aquarium. It belongs to the stony or hard coral type.
Besides bubble coral other common names are octocoral, bladder and grape coral. The proper name is Plerogyra sinuosa. It is not difficult to obtain and if seen in a store is easily recognized, as the name implies it is covered in inflated fairly large bubbles (or bladders or grapes). On sight the coral appears to be delicate but they are fairly tough. Nevertheless, handling and placement need some care.
The coral is often roundish with the bubbles emerging from the upper surfaces. The bubbles are inflated and it is reported could expand up to around 500%, leaving the wall of the bubble the thickness of one zooxanthellae.* Quite thin then!
The coral is expanded during daylight hours. At night the bubbles retract and tentacles appear which are used for feeding.
As already said some care is needed with handling and placement. Though the coral is tougher than it looks, handling should be minimized (as with all corals) and the chosen place on the reef should not be close to sharp pointed or edged rocks in case of damage to the coral, the bubbles could rub against the adjacent rocks in seawater currents. Ensure the coral is secure; a fall could damage it and lead to infection. The coral can be placed nearly anywhere on the reef as it does not require powerful lighting, however strong lighting does not appear to cause any trouble once acclimatized. A newly purchased coral should not be immediately exposed to very powerful light as they may have been used to low light in the wild and the stronger light could shock and damage it, so it is best to keep overly powerful light off the coral anyway. Reef quality lighting (spectrum) is required because of the zooxanthellae, it could be possible that the size of the bubbles is controlled by it, the lower the lighting strength the larger the bubbles to ensure there is enough light. What does mainly limit potential position is the strength of the seawater current, this should not be strong or the bubbles will be too violently shaken or will not expand to their fullest. The best seawater current strength is low to moderate. A final point on placement - it is capable of extending quite potent sweeper tentacles which could attack and damage adjacent corals, so maintain a good space between it and any neighbours. This is good practice with corals anyway.
The coral is not overly striking in colour as some are; though the colours vary they are not bright. This is not to say the coral is not attractive, it certainly is. It could be green, ivory, cream or white and some have bubbles that have clear colourless narrow stripes on them.
This coral does not present any feeding problems; there isn’t any need for suspension feeding. A small piece of de-frosted fish or similar can be gently placed on the coral and will be taken in, what could be easier? The coral is easy to feed and sometimes is overfed because of it. One feeding every other day, or longer intervals according to experience should suffice.
The bubble coral should not present any difficulty even to a moderately experienced aquarist, provided that seawater quality is high and attention is given to proper placement on the reef with regard to seawater current strength, security and lighting. The coral is yet another variation that Mother Nature has evolved which can be an attractive and interesting addition to a reef aquarium.
(*Reference: Aquarium Corals. Eric H. Borneman)
The first link is to photographs, click on it to enlarge. The second is a short video.
http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Plerogyra+sinuosa&x=53&y=8
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The Pulse Coral
May 25, 2009
The pulse coral belongs to the soft corals and is well known. It is often seen in local fish shops and though often at a higher price than many other soft corals, is not out of the reach of most aquarists.
These corals are attractive in general, but the main attraction is the pulsing of the polyps, they rhythmically open and close. There has been considerable argument over why this should be, and the most obvious answer held sway for quite a long time. This answer was that by pulsing the coral drew suspended food particles to it so that they could be captured. Watching the coral’s action this seems reasonable. However, the latest thinking that I am aware of is that the pulsing is to obtain more oxygen, in other words a breathing movement, more seawater is passed across the polyps thus more oxygen becomes available. Some aquarists automatically dismiss this as it is compared to the similarity of human breathing. Several authorities support the ‘breathing’ reason. I am not able to state the scientifically proven correct answer. Perhaps there will be scientific enquiry into the coral and facts will emerge. If they already have I’d be pleased to know.
Anyway, the attractive coral is upgraded to fascinating by the pulsing of the polyps. Sometimes in an aquarium the polyps cease to pulse, or only pulse weakly. Again, at least to me a definitive answer as to why this should be is not known. There has been argument, some saying that in an aquarium iodine is likely to be lacking and this causes it. However, some have measured for iodine and found it present at a correct level yet there isn’t any pulsing. Others have suggested that the aquarium may have saturation levels of oxygen and there isn’t a need for pulsing. The latter one could have some merit if the coral’s reason for pulsing is related to oxygen. (The respiration reason for pulsing is cited in some respected books.) Another reason suggested is that there is excessive nitrate in the seawater. If the polyps reduce their pulsing action nitrate is easily checked for, but unfortunately there doesn’t seem to have been any feedback from aquarists on this point (to my knowledge). Again perhaps science will come to our aid one day. The good thing is that even if the pulsing does reduce or cease, the coral does not seem to decline and remains attractive.
Pulse coral is the major common name, Xenia elongata or Xenia umbellata the proper ones (two separate types). There are other pulsing corals. They are suitable of course for a reef aquarium. The coral has a thick ‘trunk’ which leads to many ‘branches’, which in turn split off and lead to many polyps. The coral attaches to rock. It is important that the coral receives sufficient light as the flesh contains zooxanthellae which supply the majority of the coral’s food requirements. Ensure the light reaching the coral is direct and bright. Seawater movement should be moderate. Excessive seawater movement will have a detrimental effect.
The pulse corals are not difficult to keep and do well in an aquarium, provided of course that seawater quality is high and lighting is adequate. Placement seems to be one key to success (as with many other types), this could be a little problematic as placing the coral higher up the reef should provide sufficient light but perhaps too much seawater movement. When placed, watch the coral, does it expand properly and does the expanded coral look comfortable, that is not banging about in the current? It is easy to see when things are fine.
Having a pulse coral in the aquarium certainly adds to interest to state the least. If the pulsing action reduces or ceases, first be sure there isn’t excessive seawater movement. Then check for nitrate, if the level has increased reduce it by increasing the amount of routine seawater changes, at least temporarily. Investigate the reason for the nitrate increase and correct it. (The guideline for nitrate in a reef aquarium is 10ppm or less.) As a final check, all else having proved not to be the reason, check the seawater oxygen level, perhaps the seawater is carrying the maximum? Overall though, this coral should give little trouble.
The link below will give further information and photographs, just scroll down the page, lower down is a picture of a coral in action.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-02/ac/feature/index.php
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The Staghorn Coral
May 19, 2009
These corals belong to the hard type and are much used in reef aquariums. Writing a text on them in general terms is the only way given the space available.
They are given their common name because, obviously enough, the branches of the coral generally resemble the horns of a stag, though the branches vary considerably. There are other common names such as tabletop coral and cat’s paw coral (some have flat tops as does a table so there are also those that resemble a cat’s paw), but these names do not fit so well overall and are not as widely used. The proper name for the type being looked at here is Acropora. I can immediately find 47 types of Acropora in the references available to me and I’m sure there are many more, one suggests a total of 300 or more. They each have their own proper name under the heading of Acropora, hence the general look only.
As a hard coral they belong in a reef aquarium of course. The aquarium should have powerful lighting such as metal halides, probably best supplemented by, say, two actinic fluorescent tubes. High seawater quality is a must, and the calcium and alkalinity levels need to be monitored. Acropora corals demand calcium and the amount of usage can be surprising in a well stocked reef, so supplementation from commercial sources could be possible in a small system, but it is likely to be too expensive and cumbersome for a medium or large one. In the latter the usual practice is to install a calcium reactor. The calcium level is best kept between 420ppm (parts per million) and 450ppm, though some aquarists elevate this to around 480ppm. Such a high level is not really necessary as long as the suggested lower levels are maintained. Alkalinity in an aquarium is best if it is higher than natural seawater levels. Alkalinity resists the tendency for pH to drop because of acidic action, in other words it acts as a buffer. The best level in an aquarium is between 3.5 meq/L and 4.5 meq/L. 4.0 meq/L seems reasonable. Some fluctuation doesn’t matter provided it is fairly minor. (NB. meq/L can be converted to dKH if desired, multiply by 2.8.)
So the corals need high quality seawater with appropriate calcium content and alkalinity, plus correct lighting. The lighting could have an effect on the coral’s colour; the colour could change from that when purchased. This change is usually because the symbiotic algae, the zooxanthellae, are reacting to the lighting available.
Another requirement is seawater movement. The majority of the corals are used to high seawater movement and this should be duplicated as far as possible. A minimum flow rate suggested by the guideline is twenty times the display aquarium net gallonage per hour, which is double that suggested for a soft coral display. This flow can be provided in the usual ways such as powerheads. It is worth considering the high output types with wide delivery nozzles as opposed to narrow nozzle types, particularly the ones that can be controlled and made to alternate seawater output level. Whatever type is chosen, they need to be positioned so that a jet of seawater is not directed straight at a coral, though this isn’t as important with wide nozzle types.
Not all Acropora corals require high seawater movement, though as said the majority available to the marine aquarist do. One way of generally judging seawater flow requirements is to consider the colouration, if it is bright then it is likely that intense light is required which brings the coral closer to the surface where strong movement prevails. Another indicator is the length and shape of the branches, if they are short and club like they resist high seawater movement better; longer and more slender branches are more likely to break. Generally, if there are any doubts place them in an area of high movement and, as with all introductions to the captive reef, observe to ensure all is well.
Acropora corals could worry the aquarist when they are first placed in the aquarium. Even though the conditions for them are excellent, they could take a while to settle before commencing to grow. Once they have settled however, and provided conditions are maintained, they shouldn’t be a problem.
When placing the corals allow room for growth, if conditions are good they are fast growers, some more than others and this growth can be such that the reef becomes overcrowded fairly quickly. Having said that, the corals are excellent for ‘fragging’, a term used in the marine hobby for culturing additional corals from a mother colony. This practice is excellent for the hobby and for the wild reef: for the hobby ‘fragged’ corals appear to be more resilient than those from the wild, for the wild reef if corals are ‘fragged’ not so many are required to be collected. Therefore if the captive reef does start to become overcrowded ‘fragging’ is a definite action to consider, and it isn’t difficult.
Though it varies, the branches of the corals are fairly fragile and snap easily, more so towards the tips. Therefore care is required when they are handled. Sometimes they can be positioned so that rocks hold them until they establish themselves, but it is probably better to secure them with some aquarium epoxy putty, which sets very quickly.
Acropora come in all sorts of shapes and colours. Most seem to be branched and resemble a terrestrial bush to some extent, with generally uniform branches sprouting out and upwards. These branches could, as said, be thick, short and club like or longer, dividing and slender. Others grow to a flat top shape thus the name ‘table coral’. The pink and blue of some types are, to me anyway, particularly lovely, though the colours vary with many others.
These corals are more demanding than most, but not all, of the soft corals and the aquarist has to be sure that he/she is willing to provide the ‘extras’ required - seawater should be top notch anyway, with very low nitrate and phosphate. The extras are controlled levels of calcium and alkalinity, high seawater movement and sufficiently powerful lighting. A stable environment is required as generally the corals tolerate changes poorly.
The link gives many pictures of the corals. Click on a picture to enlarge.
http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Acropora&x=40&y=9
If the aquarist can provide the environment for the corals, the reward is a colourful and very ‘reefy’ display. A successful hard coral reef display is regarded by some as the pinnacle of achievement.
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Zoanthids
May 15, 2009
Zoanthids belong in the reef aquarium and must be known to just about every marine aquarist. They are commonly known as button polyps.
These polyps could appear in ones or twos but more likely are displayed as what could be termed polyp boulders. These are of varying sizes but the ones often sold in local fish shops could be in the region of 4 to 8 inches in diameter. The whole surface apart from the underneath is usually densely packed with polyps.
‘Zoanthid’ covers a wide variety of proper names, the most common one found in local fish shops being, arguably, zoanthus. This name in itself covers numbers of individual proper names.
The polyps come in a variety of colours such as light and dark brown, light medium and dark green, bright green, with lesser numbers pale blue, bright blue, and red. It is possible for a group of polyps to be of different colours, this is usually because different types are intermixed. Some individual polyps themselves could be one colour, or have the disc one colour and the tentacles another. Some types have a stripe from the centre of the polyp to the outer edge.
Button polyps are known as a good starter for beginners. In marine terms generally they are hardy and should survive some mistakes a beginner could make. Use of the word ‘hardy’ does not mean that high quality seawater is not required, it is.
It has already been mentioned that their home should be a reef aquarium; this is because they require the correct lighting. Button polyps have a lot of zooxanthellae (single celled algae within the flesh) upon which they are highly dependent. It is possible that when a colony has been in an aquarium for a while the polyp colour changes to a degree; this is because of zooxanthellae adjustment to the available light. In an aquarium with powerful lighting the button polyp colony is often perfectly happy very low down, which is very helpful to the aquarist. After they have been placed, wherever that is in the aquarium, as with other corals they need to be observed as time passes to ensure they are thriving.
In addition to correct lighting, the colony could require medium or fast seawater flow. They are usually tolerant of medium or even slow flow whatever the type, though an indicator of likely flow requirement can perhaps be determined by the length of the polyp stalk and also the length of the tentacles.
Button polyps do not normally require special feeding as, as said, they have dense populations of zooxanthellae. In fact some types ignore the usual floating feeds intended for corals or fish anyway. Others will capture for example brine shrimp which have been put into the aquarium for the benefit of fish and also smaller foods, if used, intended for corals.
The link shows some general pictures of button polyps. Click on them to enlarge. The photograph shows a colony of polyps in my reef, these were grown from four polyps which were transplanted into suitable holes (for some reason they came loose from the mother colony, is this a way of spreading perhaps?).
http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=zoanthidae&x=53&y=10
A general caution should be given here. The Zoanthus type above does not, as far as I am aware, fall into this caution category but as the type is so similar to the types that do, Palythoa and Protopalythoa, the caution is relevant.
Palythoa and Protopalythoa types contain a neuromuscular toxin which is called palytoxin. The toxin is contained in the mucus. The toxin is potent and could be fatal to humans. Tribesmen in the relevant areas used to put the toxin on their spearheads in order to paralyze animals and enemies.*
Though it is very unusual to hear of any problems encountered by aquarists, it is clearly wise to be aware of the potential of the toxin and, particularly if there are cuts and/or abrasions on the hands, to take reasonable precautions such as wearing rubber protective gloves.
(* Reference: Eric H. Borneman. Aquarium Corals)
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The Finger Leather Coral
March 16, 2009
‘Leather’ corals are generally hardy and suitable for the beginner and the more experienced. The Finger Leather Coral is of the soft variety and differently shaped to toadstools (Sarcophyton sp.) and cabbage (Sinularia dura) corals permitting a good attractive, varied and colourful display to be achieved.
Probably the most used common name is the one quoted but they are also regularly called colt corals. As said in other texts, common names are notoriously poor for identification and the proper name is Cladiella sp. There could be around 40 types under this heading. Here is one of them:
http://www.biopix.com/Photo.asp?PhotoId=40720&Photo=Colt-Coral,-Finger-Leather-Coral-(Cladiella-sp.)
Cladiella species are generally more similar to the usual mental image of a coral in that they are branched. The branches are usually fairly thick and quite short protruding from a short stalk which itself is thick. If the coral is touched it will usually be slimy as they have a heavy mucus coating.
The coral is, as corals go, undemanding. There isn’t a requirement for high powered lighting, an array of T5 tubes should suffice. Seawater flow is not particularly critical either, as fairly strong to moderate should be fine.
Coral cutting or ‘fragging’ is becoming more and more popular and quite rightly so. Cladiella sp. corals are good for cutting and should not present any problems. A clean cut to remove an appropriate ‘branch’ should be made and the branch gently fastened to a rock. It should attach and become a new coral to give to another aquarist or exchange at the LFS.
Just because the coral is hardy does not mean that seawater quality should not be at its highest as any coral, hardy or more difficult, will respond best in a quality environment. If kept by an experienced aquarist there should never be a problem, if kept by an inexperienced aquarist this type coral should survive most of the problems that beginners could generate.
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The Colt Coral
March 15, 2009
I need to state straight away that the title of ‘Colt Coral’ is a commonly used name and misleading. There are other coral species that are also called colt corals, so identity by the common name alone when ordering is likely to end up with the wrong type. The coral is also commonly known as the Finger Leather Coral, again as are other types.
To properly identify the coral it should be called Alcyonium species. There are perhaps around 30 types under the Alcyonium banner. They are soft corals.
When they are extended they can be feathery or with more clearly individual polyps. They are branched and the branches could be thick or fairly slim. Again, some of the species are encrusting and are not so clearly branched. The branches extend from a main stalk which is usually thick and fairly squat. If the coral is touched it will feel slimy because of its heavy mucus coat. Some soft corals could grow to large proportions in the aquarium, but this species is sometimes smaller. It is possible to obtain the coral in brown, green, red, orange and yellow, though if the aquarist is after a particular colour a search and wait could be needed.
Here’s a link, but remember there are different shapes and types, this is one of them:
http://www.biopix.dk/Species.asp?Language=la&Searchtext=Alcyonium%20digitatum&Catagory=LavereDyr
As with other corals under the ‘leather’ heading, this coral is hardy and suited to all aquarists. They can be showy and make a great display along with other types that have been described in other texts.
The coral should adapt to aquarium lighting well, and doesn’t demand powerful lighting such as metal halides. An array of T5 fluorescent tubes should suffice. Seawater flow is not critical either; a moderate to fairly strong one is acceptable. As with any soft coral, the flow should not be strong enough to obviously cause the coral ‘discomfort’, or the coral will not extend properly - resistance to flow rate depends to an extent on coral shape.
Alcyonium corals are easy to propagate or ‘frag’ to use the aquarist’s phraseology. When the removed part is fastened carefully to a rock it should soon attach and begin to grow.
This coral is hardy and suited to the beginner as it will resist most common beginner’s mistakes. At the same time it is an attractive addition to the aquarium.
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The Cabbage Coral
March 14, 2009
There are a good number of the so-called leather corals that are acceptable in a beginner’s aquarium and some are of sufficient interest, colour and/or impact to be present in experienced aquarist’s systems as well. Many (or most?) are hardy and are not over demanding of light and seawater flow conditions.
My current soft coral reef has been running for well over six years now and there are corals that have been present from the start. One type is the toadstool coral (Sarcophyton sp.) which has and is spreading with new babies popping up quite regularly and the major corals needing regular cutting.
Another coral is the cabbage, sometimes called the flat leather or flexible leather coral, though obtaining the desired coral by using one of these common names is very hit and miss. The proper name is Sinularia dura.
http://www.biopix.com/Photo.asp?PhotoId=40732&Photo=Cabbage-Leather-Coral-(Sinularia-dura)
The coral is made up of flexible ‘leaves’, and when these leaves are expanded they display attractive markings and deeply serrated edges. The form of the ‘leaves’ depends on the seawater flow, I had to cut the original colony in my reef and the ones in a strong flow are generally flat and undulating as described, but the ones in a low flow are more fluted and upright.
The coral is very forgiving as far as light intensity and seawater flow are concerned. The lights do not have to be powerful metal halide bulbs; they could be fluorescent T5’s. Seawater flow can be moderate to fairly strong; if the flow is very weak the expansion of the coral is much reduced. The coral is therefore a reasonable candidate for placing lower down on the reef with moderate flow.
If the coral is happy the aquarist can expect the colony to increase in size though this is not always rapid. A group of expanded and overlapping ‘leaves’ is really attractive and also different from branched or domed corals.
Attractive as they are there is one more immensely important attribute as far as beginners are concerned - they are very hardy. I think (without substantiating facts but going on my own experiences) that Sinularia dura must be one of the hardiest corals available. The often made mistakes of a beginner affecting seawater quality should not of course occur, but they should be tolerated.
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