The Finger Leather Coral

‘Leather’ corals are generally hardy and suitable for the beginner and the more experienced. The Finger Leather Coral is of the soft variety and differently shaped to toadstools (Sarcophyton sp.) and cabbage (Sinularia dura) corals permitting a good attractive, varied and colourful display to be achieved.

Probably the most used common name is the one quoted but they are also regularly called colt corals. As said in other texts, common names are notoriously poor for identification and the proper name is Cladiella sp. There could be around 40 types under this heading. Here is one of them:

http://www.biopix.com/Photo.asp?PhotoId=40720&Photo=Colt-Coral,-Finger-Leather-Coral-(Cladiella-sp.)

Cladiella species are generally more similar to the usual mental image of a coral in that they are branched. The branches are usually fairly thick and quite short protruding from a short stalk which itself is thick. If the coral is touched it will usually be slimy as they have a heavy mucus coating.

The coral is, as corals go, undemanding. There isn’t a requirement for high powered lighting, an array of T5 tubes should suffice. Seawater flow is not particularly critical either, as fairly strong to moderate should be fine.

Coral cutting or ‘fragging’ is becoming more and more popular and quite rightly so. Cladiella sp. corals are good for cutting and should not present any problems. A clean cut to remove an appropriate ‘branch’ should be made and the branch gently fastened to a rock. It should attach and become a new coral to give to another aquarist or exchange at the LFS.

Just because the coral is hardy does not mean that seawater quality should not be at its highest as any coral, hardy or more difficult, will respond best in a quality environment. If kept by an experienced aquarist there should never be a problem, if kept by an inexperienced aquarist this type coral should survive most of the problems that beginners could generate.

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The Colt Coral

I need to state straight away that the title of ‘Colt Coral’ is a commonly used name and misleading. There are other coral species that are also called colt corals, so identity by the common name alone when ordering is likely to end up with the wrong type. The coral is also commonly known as the Finger Leather Coral, again as are other types.

To properly identify the coral it should be called Alcyonium species. There are perhaps around 30 types under the Alcyonium banner. They are soft corals.

When they are extended they can be feathery or with more clearly individual polyps. They are branched and the branches could be thick or fairly slim. Again, some of the species are encrusting and are not so clearly branched.  The branches extend from a main stalk which is usually thick and fairly squat. If the coral is touched it will feel slimy because of its heavy mucus coat. Some soft corals could grow to large proportions in the aquarium, but this species is sometimes smaller. It is possible to obtain the coral in brown, green, red, orange and yellow, though if the aquarist is after a particular colour a search and wait could be needed.

Here’s a link, but remember there are different shapes and types, this is one of them:

http://www.biopix.dk/Species.asp?Language=la&Searchtext=Alcyonium%20digitatum&Catagory=LavereDyr

As with other corals under the ‘leather’ heading, this coral is hardy and suited to all aquarists. They can be showy and make a great display along with other types that have been described in other texts.

The coral should adapt to aquarium lighting well, and doesn’t demand powerful lighting such as metal halides. An array of T5 fluorescent tubes should suffice. Seawater flow is not critical either; a moderate to fairly strong one is acceptable. As with any soft coral, the flow should not be strong enough to obviously cause the coral ‘discomfort’, or the coral will not extend properly – resistance to flow rate depends to an extent on coral shape.

Alcyonium corals are easy to propagate or ‘frag’ to use the aquarist’s phraseology. When the removed part is fastened carefully to a rock it should soon attach and begin to grow.

This coral is hardy and suited to the beginner as it will resist most common beginner’s mistakes. At the same time it is an attractive addition to the aquarium.

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The Cabbage Coral

There are a good number of the so-called leather corals that are acceptable in a beginner’s aquarium and some are of sufficient interest, colour and/or impact to be present in experienced aquarist’s systems as well. Many (or most?) are hardy and are not over demanding of light and seawater flow conditions.

My current soft coral reef has been running for well over six years now and there are corals that have been present from the start. One type is the toadstool coral (Sarcophyton sp.) which has and is spreading with new babies popping up quite regularly and the major corals needing regular cutting.

Another coral is the cabbage, sometimes called the flat leather or flexible leather coral, though obtaining the desired coral by using one of these common names is very hit and miss. The proper name is Sinularia dura.

http://www.biopix.com/Photo.asp?PhotoId=40732&Photo=Cabbage-Leather-Coral-(Sinularia-dura)

The coral is made up of flexible ‘leaves’, and when these leaves are expanded they display attractive markings and deeply serrated edges. The form of the ‘leaves’ depends on the seawater flow, I had to cut the original colony in my reef and the ones in a strong flow are generally flat and undulating as described, but the ones in a low flow are more fluted and upright.

The coral is very forgiving as far as light intensity and seawater flow are concerned. The lights do not have to be powerful metal halide bulbs; they could be fluorescent T5’s. Seawater flow can be moderate to fairly strong; if the flow is very weak the expansion of the coral is much reduced. The coral is therefore a reasonable candidate for placing lower down on the reef with moderate flow.

If the coral is happy the aquarist can expect the colony to increase in size though this is not always rapid. A group of expanded and overlapping ‘leaves’ is really attractive and also different from branched or domed corals.

Attractive as they are there is one more immensely important attribute as far as beginners are concerned – they are very hardy. I think (without substantiating facts but going on my own experiences) that Sinularia dura must be one of the hardiest corals available. The often made mistakes of a beginner affecting seawater quality should not of course occur, but they should be tolerated.

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The Toadstool Coral

There are about 30+ toadstool coral types. Other common names could be leather coral or mushroom coral. They are all misleading though toadstool is, to me, the most descriptive of the common names. The proper name is Sarcophyton sp.

As far as the aquarist is concerned, they are very hardy in terms of corals. Many aquarists have been introduced to captive reef keeping with these corals and have gained confidence and experience with them. Some have moved on to more difficult corals but there are those who keep them as a matter of course.

The colours, which are more muted than those of some other corals, are usually off-white, cream or brown, though less common types are yellow/lemon.

The following link shows quite a few toadstools:

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?d=x&keyword_mh=Sarcophyton&page=1

In the aquarium they require proper reef lighting as they contain zooxanthellae, but having said this they do not require high powered lighting – fluorescent T5’s should be adequate. They also require at least moderately strong seawater flow as they need to rid themselves of mucus, though this current should not be over strong. In fact, from time to time a toadstool could be seen to be shedding ‘skin’ which could worry beginner aquarists, this however is nothing to worry about and quite normal. Sometimes the coral will shrink during the process and appear unhealthy, but once the process is over the coral expands and looks as good as or better than before. If a coral appears to be partly rotting or is discoloured, this can be checked by gently pressing the flesh which will crumble and break away. In this situation all is not lost as there will be parts of the coral that are solid and healthy, so all that is needed is a sharp craft knife or razor blade to cut out the bad part(s), being sure to cut on the side of the good flesh. All things being equal, that is environmental conditions are good, the coral should easily recover.

Having written of ‘cutting’, it should be mentioned that Sarcophyton sp. are very easy to propagate. One of the easiest ways is to cut the head off, ensuring that the head has some stalk. The cut head is attached to a rock or placed in a crevice and it will re-attach and grow again. The stalk that has been left will develop a new head complete with polyps. Now there are two! There are ways of obtaining more than one additional coral by multi-cutting.

If toadstools are happy in the aquarium they should spread, babies appearing on adjacent reef rock. It is also possible for them to grow large with a diameter up to perhaps 24″ over a period of some years. As previously mentioned the coral is easy to cut so if they do become too large it isn’t a problem.

If the aquarist keeps clownfish and not a suitable anemone it could be that the clownfish adopt the toadstool. If this occurs the clownfish could upset the toadstool which could close. In bad cases the toadstool might eventually die.

Sarcophyton sp. though not stunningly coloured have a visual impact and enhance a reef. They are easy to care for and should survive a few of the common mistakes that beginners make, usually to do with seawater quality. They do of course have their limits, and seawater quality should always be at its best.

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The Blue Coral

This coral falls into the ‘soft coral’ group, an octocoral, but it is a little strange for that grouping. This is because it is a reef building coral.

The coral is also a little misleading to the eye with its common name. It would be very understandable if an aquarist with a particular desire for a blue coral was looking for a coral that was actually blue! It isn’t. The external colour is a green tinged grey or brown and the polyps off-white. If the underside of the attached coral could be seen, then the blue would be also. If the skeleton is broken then again the blue would be seen. In other words the blue is internal. Another way of identifying this apparently hard coral is to note that there aren’t any corallites on the coral surface. Corallites are those circular areas that usually occur on a hard coral’s surface that contain the polyp.

Break an octocoral, surely they’re soft? This one isn’t, it could be mistaken for a hard coral. The link gives some pictures.

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Heliopora+coerulea&x=73&y=8

The common name as shown is blue coral, and they are also sometimes called the ridge coral. The proper name is Heliopora coerulea.

The coral is best placed in strong seawater movement and also under strong lighting, though it should be happy with medium movement and light as it is reasonably tolerant. The coral is also reasonably hardy, a word that pleases aquarists. It also has quite a fast growth rate, and could be ‘fragged’ should the aquarist wish.

The coral is common in the wild and there isn’t any current threat to it from collection.

This coral is a good addition to a well maintained reef aquarium and shouldn’t pose any particular problems. The coral is reported* to prefer warmer temperatures, between 80 and 84 deg F, so the aquarist who has obtained one could need to increase the seawater temperature slowly.

(*Reference: Aquarium Corals. Eric H. Borneman)

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Brain Corals

Brain corals are often available in local fish shops and are common in home reef aquariums. Other common names, though not as popular as the title, that they are known by are pineapple coral, star coral and moon coral. The proper overall name is Favia. It is not endangered in the wild.

Favia are very common in the wild and look like a boulder which could be small are in older ones very large. The upper surface of the boulder is covered in round flower-like stone patterns. When the polyps expand they cover the surface of the boulder completely. The link below shows some, clicking on a picture enlarges it:

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Favia&x=70&y=7

The polyps swell in the daylight period and cover the boulder completely, and at night the feeding tentacles appear. The colour of the coral could be yellow, brown, or green but it is likely that green ones are the most available. They are attractive in a similar way to button polyps. Green ones under actinic blue lighting look terrific.

The corals are fairly tolerant of lighting conditions and seawater conditions too and so find favour with many aquarists. Hardy is the word normally used. Though they are tolerant they of course do best in high quality seawater. Lighting could be a metal halide system, though it is possible that if the coral were to be placed too close it could burn. The problem is easily avoided because of the coral’s lighting tolerance – it can be carefully placed on the substrata, provided light reaches it directly. Fluorescent lighting such as T5’s should also be sufficient, provided the aquarium is not too deep. Seawater movement is also well tolerated; though very strong currents should be avoided the usual circulation in a reef aquarium shouldn’t be a problem.

Some Favia types can use long sweeper tentacles during the night which could damage nearby corals. When first placed in the aquarium and after a period of settling in, the aquarist should observe if this is happening and move the coral if interference with other corals occurs.

Though this coral is hardy, it is reported* that Favia can sometimes suffer from jelly infections and coral recession. High seawater quality and movement should help prevent this, along with careful handling when the coral is first introduced.

It is a good idea to occasionally feed the coral, which is easily accomplished. At night permit a small amount of de-frozen brine shrimp to drift across the coral. Using a pipette type instrument is good for this; one possibility is a normal kitchen baster.

The Favia coral should do well in an SPS (small polyp stony) reef though within reason it could be tried elsewhere as they are hardy. The SPS are normally higher on the reef than the Favia which as said could be on the substrata. Having a coral of this type in such a reef adds variety of shape and assists with the population of the lower areas.

(*Reference: Aquarium Corals. Eric H. Borneman)

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Buying A Coral

Buying livestock, be it a fish, shrimp, coral or whatever is exciting. This is after all what the hobby is all about, keeping aquarium livestock. The excitement is understandable and desirable.

There are generally two groups of aquarists, those that have experience and those that are beginners. The need to be sure of what is being purchased is of high importance to both groups if the item is to thrive.

The above comment leads on to research, a word that could conjure up thoughts of tedious reading and/or searching for information. This is not so – there are many good books about and of course search engines on the internet will soon find an item. As said, checking is really worth the time to save livestock and an aquarist’s disappointment should failure occur. The aquarist must be sure of what is required, as arriving at the retailers he/she will no doubt face a mass of choices, some very tempting. The aquarium is a reef and a coral is desired, so it is important to ensure that there is room for the coral in the location required within the aquarium (intense lighting or a lower intensity, high seawater movement or a calm area). Also corals will expand and grow. It is important also to ensure the type of coral is suitable to the system. If it is a soft coral then it will probably be fine under metal halides (maybe lower down on the reef?) or a bank of fluorescents. If it is an SPS coral, then it will need intense lighting such as metal halides or perhaps be placed high on the reef close to a bank of fluorescents, and in addition more seawater movement will be needed.

The wanted coral may not be available at the shop and in this case the aquarist must resist the temptation to get ‘something else’. What ‘something else’? Has it been researched? Is the aquarist sure that the purchase will be equally suitable to their aquarium as the original? It is best to go and check in a book or on the internet, the safest way. The retailer may suggest an item as a replacement, but nevertheless check. Most retailers are fine and will not sell unsuitable livestock, but unfortunately there are those who do.

Buying a coral that is known to be suitable is quite straightforward. The aquarist will have seen a photograph of a specimen, or seen one in an aquarium, which is why the interest in it has arisen. Having seen what it should look like, does it look like that? This is where the difficulty often arises.

If a soft coral it may have just arrived at the retailers and be closed up, and likewise a hard coral may not be showing any polyps. How long has the coral been in the shop? The seawater in the retailers is often of quite high quality nowadays, but not always so, which may be affecting the coral, as may inadequate seawater movement. The lighting may not be adequate either. This is not cruelty by the retailer, as corals usually move in and out of the display tanks quickly.

The coral could however be displaying well, showing reasonable extension. Are there any obvious signs of trouble, such as discolourations and/or disfigurements? If so the coral is not suitable for purchase. Soft corals show problem areas fairly obviously, such as discolourations that might be rot or dead areas, and bent or partly missing ‘branches’. If a soft coral does have a small area missing but is otherwise apparently fine, it could well be. Hard corals of the ‘bird’s nest’ type should not have broken ‘branches’ ideally, though a little breakage is not usually disastrous in an otherwise healthy specimen. There should not be any white areas where the coral is dead, or any sign of jelly-like substances on the surfaces.

It is a matter of careful judgement with a coral. A coral, soft or hard that is healthy apart from a small amount of damage, when placed in a high quality suitable habitat should repair itself with re-growth.

It is easier, though not always easy, for an experienced aquarist to make a ‘should I buy’ judgement, for any faults will stand out more clearly. Experience will also assist in resisting ‘something else’. The beginner faces the biggest challenge as the combination of excitement and potential purchase can equal ‘it should be ok’.

If there is doubt, don’t! Sounds simple, but it isn’t always that easy. However, not buying where there is doubt will achieve one thing; there will not be ‘Oh, I wish I hadn’t.’ There will not be a potential danger to other healthy occupants of the aquarium. Also, of course there’s always tomorrow and the retailers will still be there.

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