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The Powder Blue Surgeon

July 4, 2009

This surgeonfish is commonly called the powder blue though the proper name is Acanthurus leucosternon.

The fish is very attractive but should not be found in just any aquarium. For example, it would be wrong and cruel to have one in my reef as the aquarium is too small, and in addition the reef takes up too much of the free seawater space available for swimming making that too small. Many would say the fish should not be kept in an aquarium of less than 5ft (circa 152.5cm) by 2ft (circa 61cm) by 2ft. Subject to the fish load and the available swimming space it could be reasonable to bring the length of the aquarium down to 4ft (circa 122cm). Again the rockwork should leave plenty of swimming space for the fish. There is a further point and that is that in all aquariums the growth potential must be considered. When purchased the fish is likely to be fairly small but, in the wild at least, it has the potential to grow to about 12 inches (circa 30.5cm). It can be seen why larger aquariums are best for this fish.

To keep the fish healthy and happy it is important that seawater is kept at high quality, which is a requirement for any system anyway. Also as in any system, it is important to ensure the seawater is as oxygen rich as possible. This is done by ensuring that seawater movement is optimum so that air/water interfaces are fully efficient.

Only one powder blue should be kept in an aquarium as they could be, and usually are, aggressive and territorial. Further, the fish could take exception to any other surgeon fish present in the aquarium particularly another blue one (of any shade). The fish may even take exception to any other largish blue fish, surgeon or not. It has also been advised that butterflies could be attacked.

So it sounds as if the powder blue is a fish to be avoided. Not really, there are many aquarists who have found keeping one has not caused unfortunate problems. Environment and selection of suitable tank mates is very important, and it could be a good idea to introduce the powder blue to the tank as one of the final additions.

Initial selection of the fish is very important, as it is with all livestock. Time should be taken to ensure the fish is in good health with nothing present that could cause any questions to arise.

Feeding does not present any problems at all. The fish will readily accept the general fare that is offered most other fishes, such as de-frozen food and flake. However, in the wild they feed nearly entirely on algae and so it follows that in captivity algae should be available. In most aquariums the natural algae growth will be insufficient and therefore commercial produce is required. This could be in the form of dried Nori algae, for example, which comes in sheets. The sheet can be reduced in size if necessary and hung in the aquarium on a lettuce clip for the fish to eat. Any uneaten or loose Nori should not be left too long but removed and replaced with fresh. It is likely that if the sheet remains fixed in place it will be eaten, especially if there are other algae eaters present. The aquarist can soon judge the correct amount needed.

There are some marine fish that clearly let the aquarist know how they are feeling by their colouration and the powder blue is one of them. If the fish is a fairly deep blue and the head black then the fish is fine and happy. If the blue has turned pale and the usually black head grayish then the fish is off-colour (sorry, pun not intended! I should have said not well). Check for correct diet and enough of it, seawater quality and any sign of disease. In a high quality environment the fish is reasonably trouble free.

Assuming that the powder blue is not exposed to disease problems and is homed in a suitable situation it adds movement, shape and colour to the aquarist’s collection. Longevity should be good too.

The link provides some pictures of the powder blue, placing the mouse pointer on a picture enlarges it:

http://www.whatsthatfish.com/fish/396

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The Dusky Dwarf

June 30, 2009

There are so many fish that could tempt an aquarist but many of them have an attribute or two that means they cannot be chosen.

One of the most beautiful fish types are the angels, for example the emperor angel (Pomacanthus imperator) and the queen angel (Holacanthus ciliaris). These are certainly beautiful but cannot be kept by many aquarists because they grow too large.

So the aquarist with a smaller aquarium has to ignore angelfish? Well, no fortunately not. There are some angelfish that are suited to smaller systems and are also beautiful. These angels are generally termed ‘dwarf’ and there are some really stunning ones. Surely the flame angelfish (Centropyge loriculus) is well known. There are a good few others.

The angel referred to in the title is commonly called the dusky angelfish or coral beauty, the proper name is Centropyge bispinosus.

As with other dwarf angels there isn’t a problem with eventual size as fully grown the fish could be around 4 inches (circa 10cm). On purchase the fish are likely to be in the region of 2 inches (circa 5cm). The fish should not be kept with others of its own kind as usually aggression will occur. It has been known for two dwarf angels to be kept in a smallish aquarium together without mishap but this is unusual and best avoided. If an attempt is to be made to keep two Centropyge types the two fish should differ in size and colouration. In particular, the aquarium should be large with plenty of rockwork which affords the fish many retreats and possibilities of territory. The dusky angel will usually settle down with other suitable fish without problem, though larger more aggressive fish could cause difficulty. Overall the fish is mainly peaceful but aggression could appear from time to time, though nothing usually comes of it.

http://animal-world.com/encyclo/marine/angels/CoralBeauty.php

As can be seen from the link picture the fish is lovely, though photographs don’t really do it justice. The colouration is not so much ‘in the face’ as, say, a flame angel’s, though lovely nevertheless. The colouration can vary a little, some fish are subdued and dusky, others brighter and more striking.

Keeping the fish is reasonably straightforward without any particular requirements except one. This is that though the fish is a general omnivore it should have access to algae. The fish likes to take algae from the aquarium viewing glass and rock surfaces but cannot be considered as a good algae controller. The overall diet should be varied even with algae present, consisting of marine flake, de-frozen brine and mysis shrimp and similar. Food enriched with spirulina algae is a good idea. As always seawater quality should be high. There should be rockwork installed that permits the fish to find a cave or similar for security. The fish is suitable for a reef system though like many fish it could nip at fan worms and possibly even some corals. Usually it is well behaved but there could be exceptions!

The fish when kept in a good environment is considered to be reasonably hardy. However, some aquarists consider it not to be an ideal beginner’s fish as some experience is needed first. This is because of the early mistakes, usually to do with seawater quality that a beginner could make.

Adding one of these fish to a suitable display will not disappoint the aquarist. As stated elsewhere by an unknown source, the dwarf angels are God’s gift to aquarists. It is easy to see why.

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The Royal Gramma

June 25, 2009

Mother Nature provides some really lovely life forms; they come in all sorts of shapes and colours. Fish are usually the number one life form for the marine aquarist (for others is it perhaps corals?).

One fish that is an excellent addition to many aquariums, fish only or reef, is the Royal Gramma which is the common name, the proper name is Gramma loreto. In my opinion they are often better on a reef as the usually lower fish population means these systems are less ‘busy’. However, note that the fish could be ‘nippy’ with some other type tank mates such as snails and possibly feather dusters. When I had one of these it definitely added colour, and when the scene was lit by actinics alone this was considerably enhanced.

This is one of those fish that nature has painted differently at the front and back. From roughly mid-section it is yellow including the tail, and forward of this is purple/blue. There is a dark diagonal line through the eye and also a dark spot on the dorsal fin. The fish is capable of growing to about 4 inches (circa 10cm) including the tail, though it is usually smaller on purchase.

Once settled the fish is not bothered by bright light and should be seen quite regularly. It is also happy under lower light levels. However, for the fish to feel secure it is necessary for caves and crevices to be built into the rockwork, which is applicable to many fish.

A potential problem is that the fish has been known to jump; perhaps this is an escape ploy. It would seem reasonable to assume that if there are crevices and caves available for security, then jumping is less likely.

The fish defends itself by a display of aggression when it faces the opposition with its mouth wide open. The fish is not particularly aggressive normally (unlike for example many damsels) and is best kept with other small relatively non-aggressive fish, but avoid dotty-backs as trouble could occur.

Usually it is best to keep one fish, though in a larger reef aquarium with plenty of territory and hideaways it could be possible to keep two.

Where a high quality environment is maintained the fish is easy to keep (in marine terms) and resistant to disease, so a reasonably long life could be expected. When the fish is first introduced to the aquarium it could well be choosy about food and not eat a lot, which is always a worry with a new fish. However, this period should soon pass and the fish should eat almost anything, including marine flake and de-frozen foods.

Aquarists are always observant and could become worried if the Royal Gramma is seen upside down in a cave. This isn’t usually a problem indicator; perhaps it is linked to spawning behavior (I’m not aware of any proven reason).

In a suitable environment the Royal Gramma is a great fish to keep with its colours and peaceable disposition - in addition, the fish is hardy and easy to feed. So overall the fish represents a winning combination.

The link is to further information about the fish and also photographs:

http://www.fishlore.com/Profiles_Fairy_Basslet.htm

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The Yellow Tang

June 16, 2009

This fish is one recognized by all marine aquarists; it is very popular and commonly kept. If a splash of colour is required then this is one of the fish to consider, it attracts the eye like a magnet does metal.

The fish is properly called Zebrasoma flavescens. It is yellow all over apart from a small white area in front of the tail; this is the ‘scalpel’.

The yellow tang could grow to 7½ inches (circa 19cm). As with all fish of this type it is not for every aquarist as swimming space is required. A small aquarium is not a home for it; a suggested minimum size is 3ft (circa 91.5cm) by 1.5ft (circa 45.75cm) by 1.5ft though larger is better. If the reef structure is large this will reduce the swimming space, so even if the aquarium itself seems large enough the actual free seawater space needs to be checked.

The yellow tang is reputedly one of the hardiest of the surgeon fishes. Of course high quality seawater needs to be provided at all times. Tank mates should be compatible though even so aggression could appear, but usually with needs properly met they are peaceable enough.

Feeding these fish is not difficult, they will usually take marine flake and de-frozen foods. However, it is essential that they receive adequate amounts of algae. In the aquarium some of this could be provided by natural growth and in this way the fish is useful in keeping algae down - it should eat filamentous algae. Aquarium algae are not normally present in sufficient quantity so the aquarist needs to provide the food in other ways. One of the best methods is to purchase sheets of dried algae such as Nori. One sheet or a part of it can be held in place by an aquarium clip and left. The fish should eat it enthusiastically. It is suggested that algae is fed at least every other day, though many aquarists place the food in the aquarium everyday to ensure the fish can take it at will - any sheet algae that breaks free should be re-fixed or removed and any uneaten after a full day removed.

Brightness and colour are usually present in a marine aquarium and this fish has them plus another, movement. Properly cared for they should ‘live long and prosper’.

The video gives information on care of the yellow tang. For those who want to see a photo of the fish click on the link.

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Zebrasoma_flavescens_Luc_Viatour.jpg

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The Clown Trigger Fish

June 12, 2009

Though it is regularly seen in public aquariums, this fish is not commonly kept by aquarists. It is successfully kept by a good many nonetheless.

Seeing this fish in a local fish shop or anywhere else is an experience, the shape, the colours, it is really something. Anytime I see one anywhere I spend quite some time looking.

The fish is commonly known as the clown trigger and properly called Balistoides conspicilum. Why is it called ‘trigger’? This is because of the dorsal fin, for security the fish can go into a rock crevice and raise the dorsal fin, the second spine locks it in place. To release itself the fish exerts pressure on this second spine - the trigger - freeing the locking mechanism.

These fish are not suited to a reef aquarium as they could make a meal of mobile invertebrates and maybe some sessile invertebrates as well. As a snack, if the clown trigger can catch smaller fish it could eat them too. This would really please the aquarist! In addition, the fish could decide that the carefully placed reef rocks need re-arranging, again not an action that will endear it to the aquarist. Another reason is that the fish needs a lot of swimming space and in most reef systems the reef takes up a great deal of seawater volume.

So it is clear the fish is suited to the larger fish only system. Those with small and medium aquariums should not attempt to keep the fish as it could grow to 20 inches (circa 50.75cm). Many clown trigger fish being sold in stores are small, often only 3 or 4 inches, so growth must be allowed for.  An aquarium of 100 gallons (circa 400 litres) net or larger is the size needed. This is a large system as the fish requires rocks that form caves so that it can find security, these rocks of course reduce net seawater gallonage. The rocks should be firmly positioned so that they will resist any attempted design changes. On the same theme, heaters that are in the display aquarium should have guards fitted; these are generally available and not expensive. In a fish only aquarium a sump is a definite advantage as first it provides an area where heaters can be placed out of harm’s way and secondly it increases the net gallonage of the system. It should be remembered though that when stocking is considered the seawater in the sump is ignored.

Stocking the aquarium needs care. The clown trigger is very territorial and will take exception to another trigger in their area (the aquarium!) and could do the same with other large fish. Designed for dealing with crabs and other prey with shells, the teeth of the fish give the impression that it is not for messing with. So the fish should only be kept with other large or larger very robust ones that are well able to take care of themselves. These other fish should be of a different colour and shape.

Clearly if the aquarist wishes to keep a fish only aquarium with a high number of varied fish types, the clown trigger is not a fish to choose.

When introducing fish to the aquarium for the first time the clown trigger should be the last one in, this creates the chance for all the fish to ‘accept’ each other. It is also very helpful if, on introduction, the clown trigger is smaller than all other fish present. On no account should the aquarium be overstocked.

An aquarist could introduce the fish and find that it is impeccably behaved and wonder what on earth all the cautions were about. Another aquarist could find the fish a total berserker! So it’s best to be prepared.

Feeding is easy as the fish will take just about anything on offer, though for a fish such as this brine shrimp and flake are a bit of an insult! Pieces of de-frozen fish, mussel meat, shrimp and the like are foods usually taken without problem. The fish is confident and can be fed from the fingers, but beware of those teeth, an aquarist can be forgiven for being nervous! It has been reported that hard shelled food should be given on occasion as this wears the teeth. The fish becomes quite tame and if movement is detected near the aquarium it will usually beg for food.

Over time the fish will be seen nearly all of the daytime hours in open water and becomes a real pet and a favourite. They are very hardy and long lived if attention is given to maintaining a high quality environment.

The aquarist who can provide a suitable environment for the clown trigger is lucky indeed. 

The link is to some pictures and text:

http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/marinefish/clowntriggerfish.php

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The Dwarf Lionfish

May 24, 2009

Lionfish are known to marine aquarists for two main reasons these being their predatory nature and their finnage which is unusual.

There are several lionfish types, probably the most well known one being the common lionfish, Pterois volitans, which is also the one usually most available. This fish can grow to around 12 inches.

The dwarf lionfish is named because of its comparative size, it could grow to around 7 inches. This fish can also usually be obtained without too much trouble. Though the adult size is around 7 inches, the fish is often for sale when much smaller. The link shows some photographs of the fish, some of these demonstrate how the colouration is reasonably effective as camouflage.

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Dendrochirus+brachypterus&x=58&y=9

Though there seem to always be occasional exceptions, the dwarf lionfish, proper name Dendrochirus brachypterus, is not for a reef aquarium. For a start it is a predator and will eat the smaller fish that are often kept, further it is likely to eat or damage some invertebrates.

In a fish only aquarium the dwarf lionfish should be kept with fish larger than itself because, as said, it will eat smaller ones and even ones more or less its own size - selecting the fish to go in a fish only community needs particular care because, again as said, the ones for sale are often small. Clearly they are going to grow and as they grow the fish population is going to reduce. Even at the initial small size they could eat other small fish. The predatory tendency maybe could be kept at bay or reduced if the fish is fed well, though this isn’t a guarantee.

Some aquarists keep the fish in a species aquarium as unlike tangs it does not require a large swimming space. This isn’t a bad idea as in addition to the community fish in the fish only aquarium being secure, the dwarf lionfish does not usually object to other same type fish being present. Obviously care has to be taken with stocking levels and also care with the fish themselves - one could maybe eat another if it was smaller.

A novice aquarist who wishes to gain some experience with a fish only aquarium could select the dwarf lionfish as a good addition, as the fish is hardy. The word ‘hardy’ does not mean that attention to seawater quality is not important, it is. The meaning is that the fish should withstand some common mistakes a novice could make, one prime example is overfeeding which will bring seawater quality down.

Mentioning the word feeding, this should be reasonably straightforward as the fish is predatory. It used to be said that small goldfish could be used as ‘feeder fish’ as they are inexpensive and last long enough in salt water to attract the attention of the lionfish. Nowadays this is not seen as ethical and is considered cruel. In addition, goldfish naturally live in freshwater, so is this food correct from a dietary point? The best way to feed the lionfish is to obtain frozen marine food such as lance fish, which is readily available. These are fairly small fish and the lionfish should be able to take them, if not they can easily be cut when frozen. Ensure of course that they are completely thawed (don’t thaw in a microwave as this reduces the nutritional value; thaw in some reverse osmosis water or seawater).

Feeding could present one problem and that is the food is of course dead, the lionfish is a predator and used to hunting live food so could ignore that provided. The answer to this is usually successful. Obtain some thin white cotton thread and fasten the food loosely to it. When the food is placed in the aquarium make sure it is in the vicinity of the fish and make it move about gently. Some patience could be required but eventually the hungry fish should take it. The cotton should come off easily. Peter once kept a lionfish in a species aquarium and it learned to take food in this way. In time, as soon as the food appeared at the surface it was taken without any delay. Having mentioned a potential problem with feeding it is possible that there could be no problem at all, it has been reported that the fish very occasionally will take anything meaty floating in the seawater, very small or not. Normal feeding of the lionfish is not required every day; every other day should be tried. The feeding frequency can be determined by observation, the fish should be reasonably eager.

The fish has spines that are venomous, just as much so as the larger lionfish. This needs to be remembered when hands are in the aquarium for maintenance. Also it is possible that a plastic bag could be punctured when the fish is being transported home, the dealer should ensure this is unlikely to cause problems by double or even triple bagging.

Once the dwarf lionfish is in the aquarium, having got there using the correct acclimatization technique, it should settle down quickly. The aquarist then has a fish that is unusual in finnage and different to observe. Though slow moving in comparison to others, it is a counter to the more usually kept fish. Perhaps the ideal is a species aquarium which sits underneath the larger display one?

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The Copperband Butterfly

May 22, 2009

Copperband Butterfly

There are quite a few fish that could be said to fly the flag for the marine hobby. One of them is a member of the clownfish club, the so called common clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris, with its gaudy ‘painted on’ colours.

The fish that for me anyway is the king (or queen) of the reef is the copperband butterfly, Chelmon rostratus. It is striking in shape and colour, drawing the eye like a magnet.

The fish has the typical butterfly shape, though its body seems a little more elongated vertically. The colours are vertically striped, alternating between silver and more narrow ‘copper’, hence the name. The snout is long, and the tail clear. The fish could grow to around 5″ (circa 12.75cm). A suggested minimum aquarium length is 3 ft (circa 91.5cm), though larger is better.

The fish isn’t normally bothered by another of the same species in the aquarium, though aquarium size could have an effect on this. In addition, the food that the fish requires could well be exhausted if there are too many predating the same sources. It is generally best to have one, and to try to ensure that there aren’t any others that will also predate on the copperband’s prey.

Following on from the last paragraph, the best aquarium for the fish is a very mature reef system. This is because there is likely to be a considerable population of tiny life that the fish will hunt. It searches carefully for food, slowly moving along the rocks and using its long snout to drag food out when found. The fish is reef safe and is unlikely to damage corals. However, fanworms and some other worms will be attacked.

The usual fish that could be found in a reef system are reasonable tank mates for the copperband. Fish that are overly territorial and/or aggressive should be avoided. The copperband defends itself in the usual butterfly fish way; it dips forward and expands the dorsal fin, confronting the aggressor with spikes.

The copperband appears to be ideal for the reef aquarium and it is. However, there is one major potential drawback and this is feeding. When a copperband is purchased the aquarist takes a gamble on whether the fish will feed or not. It is reasonably certain that the fish will follow its instincts and hunt for live food as previously mentioned. However, is there enough live food among the reef structure to sustain it? When a copperband is being considered for purchase a request should be made to see it feeding, hopefully it will feed. Take a note of what the food supplied is, this could be used until the fish accepts a changed diet - if it does. There are as many aquarists who report trouble feeding the fish as there are who have no trouble at all.

When I kept a copperband it fed, but what a performance it was! There was insufficient live food in the aquarium to sustain it, so additional feeding had to be done, unfortunately the fish refused any food in the water column. I had to obtain a small sheet of acrylic and fasten some rock to it (the rock was cut so it had one flat side). The rock was full of holes and crevices so these were filled with defrosted food, anything from brine shrimp to bloodworm. The rock was then lowered into the aquarium and leaned against a glass panel. Sure enough, eventually the fish came and looked at the rock but didn’t take anything. It was decided that this was because the food didn’t move (I have no idea if this was the real reason) so I gently shook the rock plate until the copperband came and took some. Unfortunately, the fish never learned that the food was there anyway whether the rock shook or not, it wouldn’t eat unless the rock was shaken! So the copperband received dinner when the others had eaten theirs.

There is an alleged benefit with the copperband that could please reef aquarists immensely, and this is that it attacks and eats Aiptasia anemones. These anemones are the weeds of the aquarium and a real nuisance, the aquarist has to keep them under control or they will spread throughout the aquarium. The copperband as said could assist in the battle and possibly even control the anemones on its own. However, (there’s always a ‘but’ isn’t there), although many aquarists report the fish does indeed have a go at the anemones, including some well respected ones, there seems to be just as many who advise that their fish ignored them. It may be that the fish attacks the anemones, damaging them and keeping them closed up. I don’t actually know, but any assistance in the battle with Aiptasia can only be good!

The experienced aquarist who has a decent sized well aged reef aquarium could obtain a copperband, bearing in mind the comments on feeding. Hopefully the fish will feed well and find lots to eat within the aquarium. Also hopefully it will take food provided by the aquarist. If all is well, the captive reef will be adorned by a fish that is - what can I say - superb.

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