The Mandarin Fish

 

There are some spectacularly coloured marine fish and the mandarin fish must surely rank very highly among these. It’s a dragonet and the proper name is Synchiropus splendidus. There is another fish that competes for glory called the psychedelic fish properly called Synchiropus picturatus, the markings are generally circular. If I were to be the judge, the mandarin would take the crown.

The mandarin can grow to about 4 ins (10 cm) but is likely to achieve less in an aquarium. The environment needs to be of high quality as is always the case – for this fish it means high quality sea water in a reef system. The fish is not suitable for a fish only aquarium. There should be many rocks which afford many caves and crevices for the fish to hide in. The fish is not particularly secretive but needs suitable décor for security. Only one fish should be kept as two could cause trouble – two males are likely to fight. Advanced aquarists with a suitable large very mature reef system could cautiously try a male and female, the sexes are determined by the male having a first ray on the front dorsal fin twice as long as the female’s. The fish are reasonably tolerant of light from subdued to fairly bright.

It’s very sad that these fish are often bought by inexperienced aquarists and they are then for the most part doomed. Inexperienced aquarists should not obtain this fish and should resist the beauty of it. Even if the aquarist has a reef system that has been properly initially matured and other fish are healthy this still will not do. The problem is adequate feeding.

The mandarin fish spends most of the day moving about on the surfaces of rocks, algae and sand looking for food which consists of tiny organisms. Therefore the fish has a very small mouth. It could be, though it isn’t the norm, that the aquarist will find the fish will take some brine shrimp but in the longer term this will be inadequate. This is why the fish must be housed in a reef system so that it has the best chance of finding proper nourishment and the larger the reef system the better as the possibility of finding food increases.

So the guidelines are first and foremost do not buy a mandarin on impulse! Second, the aquarist should have some experience – it’s difficult to put a time period to this but say more than a year and seawater quality is continuously high. Third the fish must have a reef environment though this does not guarantee that there will be enough food whatever the reef size. Finally the aquarist must be willing to spend some more money to try to ensure the mandarin is properly fed.

Spending even more money to feed one fish? If a higher chance of success is required then yes. As already said even with a large and very mature reef system there isn’t a guarantee that the proper food will be available in sufficient amounts. A proper diet in sufficient amount is important to all life forms. So it will be necessary to spend some extra money at least at first and possibly continuously.

 Nowadays the marine hobby is very well supplied by the marine industry and this applies to food types. Available nowadays are ‘copepods’ which can be put into the reef system and on which the mandarin can feed. It’s necessary to monitor the amount required as far as possible (this is done with food for all fish anyway) and it could be that the amount added will diminish as time passes. Once the mandarin is in the aquarium and appears reasonably settled because it is looking for food, put in a batch of copepods. Observe for a week and then put in a second batch and again observe. The mandarin should be seen to eat as it ‘pecks’ at the rocks etc. If all seems well place more copepods in but this time after two weeks. If the mandarin appears to be finding food throughout this period leave another week (that is a period of three weeks) before considering a further introduction of copepods – and so on. Hopefully the introduction of food will be very much reduced as the aquarist finds an adequate introduction rate.

 The addition of copepods to the aquarium has the additional benefit that the tiny creatures generally are detrivores eating leftover food etc. When adding these to the reef system it’s a good idea to add a small portion to the sump if there is a deep sand bed.

 The mandarin fish (and the psychedelic fish) are wonderful additions to a mature reef system, but only if the aquarist is willing to give the fish the best chance of health. This of course applies to all aquarium life but particularly so to some specialist feeders. If the aquarist pays the price for success, the price being observation and expenditure on food as required, then the mandarin will remain in good health for a long time.  

 

I’ve Put A New Fish In The Aquarium, What Should I Look For?

Buying a new fish for the aquarium is without doubt exciting. We don’t keep aquariums just to look at a glass box! Even in a reef system fish make the scenery look more realistic and add movement. 

It’s assumed that all the correct actions have been completed before the moment of purchase. Above all else, the fish shouldn’t be an impulse buy, an act more likely to occur with less experienced aquarists. Obtaining a fish because it’s so pretty is wrong. The fish general type should be reasonably researched, that is it should be suited to the type of environment it is intended for (reef or fish only) and be compatible with the fish and corals, if any, already present or intended. The fish may look lovely but what is its final size? Does it have predatory tendencies? Particularly in a fish only system, but also for a reef the fish type’s character should be carefully judged as timid fish will not do so well among other bolder and more aggressive ones. Some research as above is important as once the local fish store is reached the fish on display, some very tempting because of their beauty, are likely to cause confusion. 

Fish for sale at a local fish store cannot be automatically accepted as being healthy. Some stores properly quarantine incoming fish and this has to be applauded. It’s necessary to ensure any quarantine has been properly done though – I learned of one store that did genuinely keep fish for two weeks before sale and then sold them. The problem was that the fish were not isolated for the two weeks in quarantine as new incoming fish were placed in the same tank. This exposed the existing fish to any incoming problem and each time a new fish went in the quarantine period should have been extended for a further two weeks (or more) but this didn’t happen. 

It’s important for the aquarist to question the health of any fish desired – spend time looking carefully at the fish for negative signs such as cloudy eyes, ragged fins, over fast respiration, hanging about listlessly in one area, spots and marks on the body etc. This is quite difficult for the inexperienced as for example fish have naturally differing rates of respiration. For example, a damsel has a faster gill beat than an angel. Also in a dealer’s tank the situation is far from perfect as the dealer needs to catch the fish on display quite quickly and a heavily decorated tank would seriously interfere with this. Nevertheless there are signs that can be spotted. If the store has a good reputation the assistant will be happy to explain anything. Once the aquarist is happy that all is well, ask to see the fish feed and again the assistant should be happy to oblige. If all is well ask the assistant what is usually fed – once home use this diet to start with so the fish recognizes the food if the species is known to be a bit finicky. The diet can be varied as time progresses. 

In the photo is a beautiful fish commonly called a copperband butterflyfish, the proper name is Chelmon rostratus. This is a reasonable example of what the less experienced aquarist should avoid. The fish though a ‘butterfly’ is generally suited to a reef aquarium but not a fish only system unless the fish are peaceful and even so food could be lost to other fish. A reef is best as the fish can pick at the rocks for food as it would in the wild, hence the long snout, though it’s unlikely the fish would find sufficient to eat. Even with a healthy fish the problem arises with standard feeding, with even experienced aquarists finding that they don’t feed. What is really frustrating is that sometimes they do feed without any problem – it seems to be a bit of a lottery. The one I owned lived in a reef system but I had to place food in a special rock with holes drilled in it so the fish could take it ‘naturally’. 

So the aquarist has picked the fish which is compatible and as far as can be ascertained healthy. It needs to be transported home and if not already quarantined put into a quarantine tank. Most aquarists don’t do this unfortunately. Then after a fortnight or more it should be properly introduced to the display aquarium, with dimmed light and time for the seawater condition between the quarantine tank or travel bag and the display aquarium to equalize. 

The first point when the fish is in the display aquarium is to watch for it to appear. Most fish tend to disappear into the rocks, or find a suitable place which offers some security. For all the fish knows there are predators about. Feeding the fish already present should continue as usual. The new fish will stay hidden for a while, the period very much dependant on the species and the company it has to keep. A healthy fish will re-appear and explore the aquarium. If the aquarist has provided sufficient hide-holes one of these will be adopted giving the fish more permanent security. Security is very important to the new fish as it has been stressed a great deal in the previous weeks with capture (unless tank-raised) and travel, so it needs time to calm down and resume its normal life patterns as far as possible. 

Once the fish has re-appeared a check needs to be made that it’s feeding. Some fish are bold feeders going for the food the instant it hits the seawater. Others are slower and some are timid, particularly if they are being harassed. The character of the fish should be taken into account to ensure it has enough food. Sometimes the fact that other fish are eating is sufficient for the new fish to join in. 

Whether the fish has been quarantined or not, once the fish is visible a watch should be kept for any changes in appearance or habits. If the way it swims changes, or breathing rates increase, or there are ragged fins it should be noted. If very small or tiny yellowish white to white spots are noticed on the fins or body then very close monitoring is needed. If the fish gives the opportunity have a look with a magnifying glass. Spots could be a sign of serious disease which if left alone could put other fish in danger. If such a sign appears don’t take immediate action but try to be sure that what is being medicated is actually there! Speedy action is necessary but there is time to consider. With some diseases it is easier to treat a fish only system than a reef. 

All aquarists keep a general eye on their fish to be sure they are healthy even if the fish have been resident for months or years.  After a time it becomes automatic at feeding and maintenance times. 

If the aquarist keeps high quality seawater and does the necessary ongoing maintenance plus feeds an adequate diet, with a little bit of luck the odds seem to be that the aquarium fish will settle and live a long healthy life. As experience grows the likelihood of being tempted to add ‘one more’ fish, possibly an inappropriate one, will diminish.

 

 

Navigating This Website

I have received two messages concerning difficulty in navigating aquaristsonline.com because of  its size. (I apologise to the sender(s) – the messages were approved but they disappeared!)

The first and best way is to use the categories listed on the right of the page. Once the category desired has been reached then scroll through the texts.

The second way is to click on ‘Sitemap’ at the bottom of the page. This will bring up a list of texts in order of date, newest first. Clicking on one of these will go directly to that text. It’s known that there are broken links earlier on because of a problem that arose but these should be few.

In addition there is a ‘Search’ facility top right of the page.

A Battle Won – Or Are They Just Regrouping?

Many marine aquarists (or is it most?) run into a problem or two along the way. This could be with equipment though this is generally reliable nowadays. Often the problem is environmental and could be an unwanted invasion.

With my aquarium it was an invasion, or rather two of them. The first was algae (we all recognize and shudder at the possibilities there!) and the second unwanted life.

Except for desirable types of encrusting algae there had never been an algae problem and apart from what follows never has. I first noticed the little green balls here and there and was initially pleased because it was a quite attractive addition. I identified them quite quickly as ‘sailor’s eyeballs’, also known as bubble algae but properly called Ventricaria ventricosa. The green balls, which can vary in colour shade in line with the available light, can grow up to ½” or so in diameter. They could form small cylinders as well as balls. It was quickly learned that they are unwelcome because if they are left to their own devices they could spread very quickly – they eventually burst and spread spores everywhere. One good thing is that they are said to grow in high quality seawater*, so this could be Mother Nature confirming the test kit results. The balls are full of carbon monoxide which is a toxic gas*.

So how was this attack met? It was clear that as the aquarium is a reef it was likely they could never be eradicated completely because of all the nooks and crannies among the rocks. However, the ones that were visible would be destroyed. Remembering that if burst they could spread spores it was decided to burst and siphon them at each routine seawater change. The basic equipment used is about 12” of rigid airline connected to a length of flexible airline, enough to reach from the lowest part of the aquarium to a bucket. Then, before the main seawater change took place, each bubble seen was burst and the pipe kept very near the bubble for a few seconds thus taking out any spores. It takes a bit of practice but eventually is easy.

Constant attacks on the bubbles reduced their numbers and these reduced numbers meant fewer new bubbles, on a down scale as time went on. It’s felt that the bubbles have raised the truce flag and are well under control. As said, they’re still hidden here and there so the conqueror needs to maintain vigilance!

Two invasions were mentioned. The second one was aiptasia. This time it was known that they weren’t welcome and attacks began. With the reef the same problem applied – not all would be seen. The aiptasia, also known as ‘glass anemones’ come into the aquarium with live rock or perhaps more likely with coral rock (which could be called uncured live rock). They present the same problem – one or two fine, but they are likely to multiply rapidly. They shouldn’t be scraped off rocks or squashed etc as this will leave remnants which are quite likely to grow into new anemones. There are one or two natural ways of attacking them.

Natural methods that have been recommended are the introduction of a copperband butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus), or by a peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). Some aquarists have reported success with these but there are others who advised they took little interest in the anemones. There is also the question of suitability to the aquarium type and the fact that the aquarium could be fully stocked. The copperband butterfly is also known to be a gamble as far as feeding is concerned, some seem to eat without problem and yet others could drive the aquarist nuts! Where an introduction is considered to be safe then one or the other could be tried, the fish and shrimp are interesting in their own right. Once introduced a watch needs to be kept for any problem that the fish or shrimp could meet and also that the aiptasia are being dealt with.

If new introductions are not wanted then there is a chemical method that is reliable and safe and this is the route taken in my case. The chemical comes in liquid form and is gently squirted on the central disc of the anemone making sure that circulation pumps are temporarily turned off. The instructions need to be carefully followed of course. The product is named ‘Joes Juice**’. My aquarium is full of soft corals (though there are few fish) and there has never been a bad reaction of any sort to the treatment. The anemones have not been completely eradicated because of the rock formations but are very low in number – sometimes a search finds none at all. If one is seen, no matter how small, it’s attacked. Again this action is taken at routine maintenance time. Once more it seems the white flag has been flown but a watch is still needed for the little devils.

If the seawater is low in nitrate and phosphate then the possible problems are diminished though not removed entirely. The main point is early identification – anything seen that ‘wasn’t there before’ needs investigation and identification. In the case of the above invasions, each problem was dealt with on a fortnightly basis so that only one had to be faced at each weekly routine maintenance job.

Photographs of the offending beasties should have been taken when they were available but weren’t. However it’s easy anyway, just go into Google and type in either Aiptasia or Ventricaria ventricosa, and then click ‘images’ on the left hand side.

(* Ref: Baensch Marine Atlas Vol 1)

(** Aquaristsonline.com has no connection, personal or commercial, with the makers of ‘Joes Juice’)

There Is A Bad Reading But The System Should Be Mature

Relating to marine aquariums what is meant by ‘mature’? It means that the aquarium system is ready to support life. In fact there are two levels of maturity: the first is the initial level which is achieved after the system has been set up and the biological filter (some call it life support) has been activated. The second is when the system is truly mature, this is when the livestock is present in entirety and the biological filter has fully settled down to the task it faces, this could take many months. The first level could take many days to weeks.

The two main biological filter systems in use are live rock and canisters, the first being the most desirable. The biological filter is populated by bacteria. The bacteria deal with the toxics which, without them, would appear in seawater tests, these being ammonia and nitrite. Ammonia is produced by fish etc as a natural part of life and the bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and then nitrite to nitrate (depending on the type of filter). In an enclosed system ammonia and nitrite are dangerous and should measure on tests as zero.

It is necessary initially to look at both types of filter separately so let’s start with the canister filter.

The canister filter is an electric pump positioned on a cylinder so that seawater can be moved from the display aquarium through the canister and back to the aquarium. It’s generally best to have the seawater intake at one end of the aquarium and the outlet at the other end, with the returning seawater exiting at the surface (this is to aid with re-oxygenation). As the seawater goes through the canister the bacteria that live on the media carry out the conversion of toxics. When the canister is first set up there aren’t any bacteria present of course. It’s necessary for the aquarist to carefully choose an adequately sized canister then obtain bacteria friendly media (some are better than others) in sufficient quantity. The bacteria have to be introduced to the media and this is best done by the use of commercially available maturation fluid which includes full instructions for use. The procedures are simple and involve regular testing for ammonia and nitrite. The filter is considered mature when readings are zero, indicating that the bacteria are doing their job.

Note that canister filters do not deal with nitrate (because of the presence of oxygen). Some types of media have claimed to be able to deal with nitrate but this ability is usually short lived. To avoid putting undesirable nitrate into the aquarium from the start before livestock are present, put intake/exit tubes into a bucket containing seawater at the required temperature. When tests indicate zero for ammonia and nitrite the filter is ready to support livestock in the display aquarium. The seawater in the bucket should be thrown away. It isn’t necessary to have the filter attached to the aquarium initially: the bacteria are being introduced to the filter media not the aquarium. In the future as the aquarium slowly matures to the second level bacteria could appear elsewhere but it’s the canister media that’s the main home for the hard working bacteria.

Live rock is probably the most used filtration. Not only does it provide the bacteria media, it ‘seascapes’ the aquarium as well. There aren’t any trailing wires or tubes to be seen. All that is required is for the aquarist to purchase sufficient ‘clean’ rock and introduce it to the aquarium making sure that there is good circulation around and, as far as possible, between the rocks. ‘Clean’ (or ‘matured’) rock is that which has been kept for a period by the retailer so that organisms that are dying or dead can be cleared away. These organisms are there because live rock comes from the sea and some of them cannot withstand the stress of transportation. If dying or dead organisms were left they could be a source of ammonia. In addition, there could be undesirable organisms that hopefully will be spotted and removed. If the aquarist is lucky some desirable organisms could survive.

Live rock is able to deal with ammonia, nitrite and in addition, within reason, nitrate (‘within reason’ means there’s a limit). This is because the bacteria require oxygen, those on the surface get it easily and convert ammonia and nitrite but those within the porous rock don’t but still require oxygen – to get it they remove oxygen from nitrate thus breaking the nitrate down.

Ok, so the aquariums set up and there’s a troublesome reading of ammonia or nitrite that shouldn’t be there.

 First of all, with the canister, is the aquarist using that all important requirement patience? The time required for a canister to initially mature varies and the need is to wait until it does. Don’t overdose the maturation fluid thinking that the process will speed up, it won’t. Follow the instructions carefully and stop dosing when indicated, often when the test turns red. What is happening is that the bacteria are building their numbers so that they are able to deal with the toxics present. If the filter media is ok and the pump operating correctly, the bad reading will go, often disappearing in a very short period, sometimes in not many hours. The sequence of readings is usually ammonia, then nitrite, then these clear. Nitrate often appears as the cycle progresses.

If the tests showed zero readings but a bad reading has returned, presumably this is during stocking. Stocking the aquarium starts when the initial maturation point has been reached. Stocking, particularly with fish, much less so with corals (corals present a lower biological load) should be done slowly. After the introduction of two small fish or even just one (in a 50 gallon aquarium) there should be at least a two week period before further fish are introduced, and then just two more, or one if it is larger. The reason is the biological filter has to adapt to the increasing load – if organisms are introduced too quickly the bacteria can’t cope and an undesirable test result is likely. Stop stocking and wait for any bad reading to go keeping an eye on fish already present. If they show signs of discomfort, carry out a partial seawater change. Testing should continue very regularly during the whole stocking period.

If a bad reading appears after full stocking is reached or is being approached and even after waiting it doesn’t disappear, check the canister filter. Is the electric pump working (is seawater coming out of the exit pipe?) They are generally reliable nowadays. Are the inlet and exit tubes properly attached? Is there a blockage preventing correct seawater flow? If no problem is found and the bad reading persists, check the capacity of the canister – manufacturers usually indicate the gallons the canister can deal with. If the canister can’t cope, mature a bigger one (mature the additional media and when ready transfer the media from the smaller canister). Perhaps there is room for more media in the smaller canister. Obtaining the correct size canister is clearly best done at the planning stage.

During maintenance, the bio-media within a canister filter can be cleaned if necessary to maintain seawater flow and general efficiency. The cleaning should be done in warm seawater (the old seawater after a routine change for example). Stir very gently. Never clean in tap water or there will be bad readings on testing!

The aquarist who uses live rock should adhere to the stocking principle outlined above. Some beginning aquarists believe that when live rock is introduced then stocking can go ahead as the rock is fully ready. This is incorrect and could be the reason why a bad reading has appeared.

Live rock is already populated by bacteria, but the adequacy of this population varies. First there are different types of live rock and the amount needed of a particular type should always be checked. Second the rock has to be cleaned as indicated above and in this period the rock lays quietly in seawater without livestock. Therefore there isn’t any ammonia being generated to support the bacteria’s needs and the population could reduce. To counter this, dead organisms could be producing ammonia and it is possible, for a time anyway, that the bacterial count could increase. The clean rock then goes into sale tanks where often it lays without livestock. Again the bacteria population could be decreasing. If the rock lays in a sale tank for a long period the bacteria count could be seriously depleted. It is always worthwhile checking how long since the rock was cleaned. Even with this knowledge the adequacy of the filtration ability of the rock will be unknown, hence the slow stocking.

If a bad reading appears during stocking then stocking any further should be postponed until the reading is correct – in other words until the bacteria can handle the bio-load. If the stocking is nearly complete or fully so and a bad reading appears and does not correct, then it is possible that there is a seawater circulation problem. If a check of the circulation pumps shows no problem then it is probable that the amount of rock is insufficient for the bio-load. Rock as desired should be purchased and introduced and a close watch on seawater test readings maintained. Always ensure that there is adequate seawater circulation when the new rock is introduced and of course that it is stable.

The maximum stocking level relevant to the net gallonage of the display aquarium should never be exceeded.

Generally, with canister and live rock filtration, it’s more likely to meet a problem with a fish only system than a reef one, all things being equal. Why is this? Fish present a higher bio-load to the bacteria than say corals. In a fish only system there are usually many fish for the size of aquarium, and they are all of course fed regularly. In a reef system, as said, the corals present a much lower bio-load and if there are fish present they are often smaller and should be less in number.

It’s not likely that serious problems will appear in a new aquarium system provided the aquarist prepares the system for the bio-load it will contain, that is fish only, a mixed reef system, or corals only. The new aquarist should always display patience, harder to do than might be thought. In a complete system a sudden problem is unlikely if maintenance is properly applied as anything untoward will become apparent in good time, particularly as the aquarist will have gained experience and understand the system thoroughly.

The One That Went Missing

We moved address and I had to close my reef aquarium. It was a sad but necessary action. At the new address, once all the seemingly never ending jobs after a house move has occurred had been done, my thoughts turned to another reef aquarium. This one, the current one, is a little smaller because of space.

According to my notebook the aquarium was initially mature in October 2002 that is any unwanted ammonia/nitrite readings had gone. This was with an aquarium full of seawater and rocks, nothing else. I wanted a soft coral reef (as always) and a selection of corals went in. These were left to settle before any fish additions.

I always understock my aquariums and only considered three fish which needed to meet the criteria of being reasonably hardy and not over timid, also they would need to remain small. The selection was a Flame Angel (Centropyge loriculus), a Flashback as in the photo (Pseudochromis diadema), and a Fijian Blue Damsel (Chrysiptera tampou). Once the fish had been selected and given time to display any unwanted problems they went into their new home. This was in April 2003.

They were fine, no problems at all. They all fed really well and didn’t cause each other problems. After a while the Flame Angel became boss fish and the other two bickered with each other occasionally.

The whole reef continued in really good shape. The fish were in good health displaying excellent colour and no signs whatsoever of any problem. In time the Flashback became very rounded – he (she?) spent much time in amongst the rocks which I assumed was because tiny creatures were being caught and eaten. The Flame Angel did the same but to a lesser extent and the damsel mainly just cruised about in open water.

We all from time to time have some identifiable problem with an aquarium, in my case it has been with hardware – a powerhead became very noisy and had to be fixed, likewise with the protein skimmer motor. Not a big problem.

After three years, in March 2006 I noted that the Flashback had not appeared as usual when food was offered. The fish was often the first at the table even beating the damsel to the offering. Waiting and watching achieved nothing, the fish didn’t appear. I wasn’t particularly alarmed and the next day I expected the Flashback to appear as usual, particularly at feeding time, but the fish was nowhere to be seen. The fish, as were the other two, was in clearly good health. The only noticeable thing and different from the other two fish was the very rounded belly from the food available among the rocks.

Some fish have been known to jump though the Flashback is generally not one of these. However, as I run my reef with an open top I checked for the fish everywhere, on the floor all round the aquarium cabinet, everywhere that the fish could be on aquarium braces etc but found nothing. There is a weir for the seawater but nothing had gone over this, and it would be very difficult for anything to do so. I even checked on the top of the fluorescent tubes!

I continued to watch and hope for quite a few days but the fish didn’t appear. At this point I did ammonia and nitrite tests but these were normal at zero and remained so. There wasn’t any sign of a reef problem: all the corals were happy, extended and showing off their polyps.

So I wonder what happened. I have to admit that I haven’t any idea based on fact as there wasn’t any indication of anything amiss whatsoever, the fish was certainly in good health and mobile with no sign of age. It wasn’t a timid fish (they’re known to be the opposite generally). There’s certainly nothing in the aquarium that would predate on the fish. The only conclusion I can come to is that the fish paid the price for being greedy and getting well rounded, there certainly wasn’t any overfeeding by me but there’s quite a lot of live food in the rocks. Somehow, maybe, it got stuck in the rocks.

The Flame angel and the Fiji damsel continue in great health and colour having now spent eight years in the aquarium. I’ve not replaced the Flashback as the display is lovely as it is.

Is Keeping An Aquarium Cruel?

Some would state straightaway that it is and others that it isn’t. Guessing the identity of who belongs to which answer doesn’t take a great deal of thought. The two obvious groups are those who are adamant about ‘leave nature as it is’ and guess who, marine aquarists. Of course there are many others with an opinion on the subject.

Really the whole procedure of equipping and stocking has to be considered – the purchase of suitable equipment for the aquarium then the collection of fish and corals etc from the wild reef, their transportation, the period they are kept in a retail store and finally the delivery to the home aquarium. It’s to be hoped that nowadays prior to delivery to the home aquarium all is well, with good practices safeguarding the well being of the livestock. We all know that this isn’t always the case but things have improved a lot and continue to do so.

So the aquarium then, what alarms some is the size. The aquarium could be a small nano or a very large ten foot but they are all miniscule compared to the reefs. We measure our volumes in cubic feet, the seas and oceans are in cubic miles! How can it not be cruel to place fish etc in such a tiny environment?

Many of us want to be involved with nature. Take gardeners for example, they have flowers, bushes and trees that have come from all around the world. They strive to create for their own and others enjoyment a patch of beauty, be this geometrical or more random. So it is with the marine aquarist, though it is best to omit the word geometrical with aquariums as often the only part this applies to is the aquarium itself.

It is to be hoped that the novice marine aquarist sets out with a determination to ‘get it right’. Even with this the end result is not always as hoped. However, to get it right requires consideration and the only way to be able to effectively consider is with research. This is where the first ‘cruel’ appears, with the failure to research. Research could be by books, the internet or the retailer, though a combination could apply. Retailers need to sell to survive so caution is required. Having introduced the word caution this is the second requirement. Now we have research and caution, a really good base to start building. Research into the aquarium apparatus itself and the type of livestock that are desired and caution with the information obtained – not all is up to date and some is opinion based that is not always supported by general experience.

Failure to complete research into the aquarium apparatus itself is cruel because in the mid to long term the livestock are going to pay for inadequate equipment, possibly or probably by disease and death. This could seem rather black and white but it’s correct nevertheless.

If the aquarium is set up correctly for the type of livestock desired, that is fish only, corals only or mixed reef, then the newcomer is doing well. Why then should this be spoilt by incorrect stocking? It seems very illogical that efforts have been made to provide an adequate aquarium system and then these good initial actions ruined by bad stocking. This is the second ‘cruel’, incorrect stocking. With newcomers it is often caused by impatience, the word that covers so many bad issues with the marine hobby. Putting fish in with corals that the fish will damage, or corals that are incompatible with each other, or fish that will grow too large and/or become too aggressive is cruel and this is the fault of the aquarist as it is his or her decision. I could be a little more generous here and accept that some retailers are at fault by obtaining a sale without reasonable knowledge of the aquarist’s experience or aquarium system, but the prime fault is with the aquarist.

So the aquarist has done well, with research and a good aquarium system. The stocking is complete and that has also been done well. However problems can still arise and generate cruelty. The aquarist still visits retail outlets and bumps into say a fish that is beautiful and not too expensive. A magnet seems to drag the wallet out and the aquarist obtains the fish, unable to resist even after all the patience and planning that has gone before. It could be known that the fish is generally compatible with anything, but the desire and acceptable cost seem to overpower all other thought. This is cruel not only to the fish just obtained but to the livestock already in the aquarium, because the ability of the system to cope is being pushed. In other words, the aquarist is starting to overstock. This could have repercussions on oxygen availability in warmer weather as an example, or cause territorial disputes with otherwise settled fish. Also if the new fish is stressed, added to the stresses it has already endured in travel and a probably crowded retail sales tank, disease could appear. The only reasonable way to avoid this (when adding a fish to an under stocked aquarium) is to quarantine and the majority of aquarists do not. Quarantine is not a 100% sure way but is far better than a direct introduction. The other way is to know absolutely that the retailer has quarantined the fish – properly quarantined that is and not added other fish during the quarantine period. The best way with a fully stocked aquarium is to invoke another marine aquarists’ watchword, ‘discipline’ and not make the purchase in the first place.

Failing to complete routine seawater changes is cruel as the inhabitants are being forced to live in an environment that is reducing in quality. Pollutants build and the eventual result is poor coral displays and reduced fish colouration, if not worse. Apparatus such as the protein skimmer are a great advantage in assisting with the maintenance of quality but do not remove the need for routine changes. Seawater quality is the number one requirement in a marine system.

It goes on…. failure to provide an adequate diet for fish is another. Fish have adapted to their food over a long time and cannot automatically change to another type. Some fish are omnivorous and will take the usual flake and frozen offerings. Often so will other more specialized fish, but their dietary needs will not be properly met causing eventual health problems.

The majority of the corals that are kept require adequate light to prosper. Hopefully the aquarist will have researched and provided adequate lighting in the first place. However, to the human eye some lighting doesn’t seem to reduce much, but it does. Failure to change tubes and/or bulbs at acceptable intervals can have an effect on corals that will not please the aquarist.

Apart from feeding, lighting and routine seawater changes sometimes an aquarist after a fairly lengthy period of owning an aquarium fails to maintain the system properly. This starts by skipping the odd more cumbersome task as it ‘shouldn’t matter I’ll do it later’. This then happens more often and the efficiency of the support system reduces causing trouble in the future which the aquarist doesn’t rectify properly causing more problems……

No doubt there are other examples of cruelty that could apply. There will be those who state that I’m being too harsh and maybe those who agree with the text. It has to be said that even if research, caution, patience and discipline are applied things could still go sideways. However there isn’t any doubt, in my mind anyway that if all the research is done to produce a properly functioning and fully supportive aquarium system which is then properly stocked after more research the aquarist is off to a fine start. If maintenance is then done properly and discipline exerted over the ‘one more fish’ magnet, the aquarist can be sure that he or she is not being cruel. The fish and corals etc could have a long healthy life without natural stresses such as the threat of predation. Who knows, one day if the coral reefs continue to decline the aquarist may be able to contribute a coral or fish to a resource for species protection.

Keep It Clean

Sometimes a marine aquarium is broken down as the aquarist no longer wishes to keep one and is to sell it. This is quite sad really but of course there’s more than one reason why this should happen. Sometimes though an aquarium needs to be broken down when the aquarist is still fully interested and doesn’t really wish to carry out such a drastic action.

Breaking an aquarium down means removing all the parts, cleaning and then reassembling them after removing dirt from below the rocks and any sand. As said, it’s a drastic action and causes considerable stress to the aquarium inhabitants and to the aquarist. The aquarium could be a reef type which has been running for years and is beautiful. Why on earth should it be broken down, why not let it continue?

Routine maintenance of an aquarium is accepted as essential. Without it the aquarium display will deteriorate and the inhabitants will eventually start to exhibit signs of stress, a major one being disease. In some aquariums dirt accumulates which cannot be dealt with without disturbing the overall display. We all recognize dirt which gathers in some areas where the seawater flow could be low and it also appears in sand. It also tends to appear beneath rocks. Normally the aquarist siphons it out when doing a routine seawater change and if there is more than one area to be serviced then each one is done in turn. This usually keeps things acceptable.

Unfortunately, there is a situation that could arise where this routine siphoning of dirt eventually is not enough. This is where dirt accumulates at the base of rocks, particularly where the rocks are numerous such as with a reef. The dirt appears there as seawater flow is much reduced. Siphoning cannot reach under the rocks. It becomes worse if there is a decorative sand bed or a deep sand bed (DSB) beneath the rocks. It is not recommended to have either type of sand bed beneath rocks. The reason for this is sand compaction and dirt accumulation. It is recommended that rocks are placed in first and sand applied afterwards if it is required. (Also rocks should never stand on sand as they could well be unstable.)

It is quite easy to avoid dirt appearing beneath the rock structure by building a simple cleansing system into the design. It can be retrofitted of course but this will cause disruption to the display. All that is required is some marine quality flexible and rigid tube, pipe fittings plus some aquarium silicone. The final item is some plastic ‘egg crate’, which is sold in sheets and is made up of joined together fairly small squares.

First of all the base area of the aquarium needs to be measured. The ‘egg crate’ should be sized to, say, 2” smaller than the visible edges, that is 2” away from the viewing glass sides. When this has been achieved, rigid plastic pipe (1/2” or so diameter) should be cut about 1 1/4” long. All the pieces should be of equal length. Enough of these should be cut to support the ‘egg crate’ at about 3 or 4” spacing all along the edges and on the inside. For each 3 ft of aquarium length ensure that there is space to lay across the width of the aquarium a length of rigid pipe. These cut supports should be put in position and filled with silicone, this is to ensure they do not fill up with dirt and also anchors them in position. When the silicone is set, which usually takes around 24 hours, the ‘egg crate’ can be placed on top, this should not be siliconed in place.

Now more rigid plastic pipe is required, again about ½” diameter. This will be used as outlets for seawater that will be pumped under the crate. For each 3 ft of aquarium length cut a piece of pipe 1” shorter than the width of the ‘egg crate’. At about 1 1/2” intervals drill 1/8” holes. There should be a level row of holes on one side of the pipe and on the exact other side and in line should be another row. One end of the pipe should be sealed off completely making sure the plug is firmly in place with silicone. So, for a 3ft length aquarium there should be one pipe, for a 6ft two etc. A 3ft aquarium will have the pipe positioned in the centre and across the width, with the holes positioned to send seawater horizontally across the base of the aquarium in two directions.

The ‘egg crate’ needs to be removed again, and the drilled pipe(s) put in position. Ensure the pipe is firmly in position so that it cannot move using silicone as needed. When the silicone has set connect a flexible pipe to it and run the pipe to the intended position of the pump. Ensure the flexible pipe is securely fixed to the rigid pipe and cannot come loose. Now the ‘egg crate’ can be put back in place, but not glued as rocks will keep it immobile.

If all silicone is cured rocks can be placed on the ‘egg crate’ and once they are stable and acceptable in appearance the aquarium can take seawater. Heaters, circulation pumps and other support equipment can be fitted and turned on as required.

The finishing job is to fit the powerhead which will drive seawater under the rocks through the drilled pipe(s). The location has already been decided and so the procedure is straightforward. The pump needs to be sized of course. A guide for each length of rigid drilled pipe of around 12 to 15” is to allow about 1000 litres per hour. I use a pump of this size and it operates adequately. It is a very good idea to use foam on the intake of the powerhead as this will stop dirt getting to and possibly blocking the rigid pipe outlet holes. This foam should be cleaned under a tap weekly.

The DIY involved in fitting such a plate to support the rocks is very easy and the materials not expensive. The time involved could be as low as a bit more than one day and this is mainly to give time for the silicone to set.

It’s obvious that if a DSB was to be incorporated in the main aquarium then this couldn’t be done. It’s best to have a DSB in a sump anyway. If a shallow decorative sand bed is required this is possible – fit an angled piece of plastic all around the open edges of the ‘egg crate’ to hold the sand back without spillage. The dimensions of the ‘egg crate’ could be adjusted to increase the sand bed width.

I removed a rock and took a not very good photo (above) showing the ‘egg crate’ in my aquarium. The photo at the head of the text shows some of my reef.

Pumping seawater under the rocks into a clear space has advantages. Oxygenated seawater enters the area and this also helps prevent temperature layering. The important advantage is in cleanliness as dirt is caught in the seawater movement and propelled away. My reef aquarium had the system built in from the start over 8 years ago and the bottom is nearly clear. There is a small accumulation of dirt at each end of the base furthest away from the outlet pipe but it’s not a problem. It’s certainly far better than having to break down the aquarium because the dirt problem had become unacceptable.

The Future

 

Wow, now that’s a big title, so it had better be reduced straightaway! What ‘future’? It’s got to be marine aquariums of course, but excluding the gloom concerning the wild reefs.

In some areas that could be discussed the future is fairly apparent if only generally. For example, the car is going in one or two directions (or more) because of the increasing cost of fuel: they’ll be hydrogen or electrically powered, probably hybrid as well. This will take some time of course, as support structures are required for the new fuels (particularly hydrogen presumably) and perhaps more time needs to pass to allow the cost of conventional fuels to rise further increasing the pressure for change.

It’s more difficult with marine aquariums, basically a glass or acrylic box with seawater and livestock. It depends mainly on three areas for success: first, the marine aquarist needs to be reasonably basically knowledgeable, second the aquarium needs the correct support equipment and third Mother Nature needs to be happy (high quality seawater and habitat for the living inmates). Looking to the future on that basis doesn’t really turn up much as aquarists will probably remain the same mix as now. Glass and acrylic are, well, glass and acrylic (perhaps production methods could be improved but that’s not what’s being looked at). The support equipment such as heaters, skimmers, pumps etc could show a little more promise. Heaters generate heat with wattage and this is unlikely to change. Pumps could perhaps become more efficient in the use of energy and maybe in the way they move seawater, although there are pumps available now that give choices. Lighting seems to show the highest ‘future rating’ at least at the moment.

There are two types of lighting mainly in use, fluorescent tubes and metal halides. The former are used on fish only systems and also some reef systems. The latter are really for reef aquariums. Fluorescent lighting is reasonably cheap to buy and easy to install and a big plus is that running costs are not particularly high. Metal halides are also reasonably easy to install but the running costs are higher. Metal halides use quite a lot of electricity with bulbs being rated quite commonly at 250 and 400 watts, there are others more powerful. The light they emit is intense and the spectrum tailored. There isn’t any doubt that they are successful in adequately lighting many captive reefs but, as said, they cost a lot to run particularly when several bulbs are in use on a large reef. Another downside is the heat they emit, which can have an effect on the seawater warming it up. This could be helpful in reducing the requirement for heaters but of course the lights aren’t on all the time. In some circumstances this seawater heating effect demands the use of another electricity eating piece of equipment, the seawater ‘chiller’.

The future of lighting is here already but still developing. LED systems are being sold and have been tested by respected experts who have declared them to be fully acceptable for marine life. They have a more reasonable appetite for electricity. They are tailored for spectrum and do not heat up the seawater (some use fans to divert heat away). Advanced arrays can even be programmed to simulate clouds passing and the gradual change from day to dusk to dark and vice versa. The downside at the moment is cost.

So what else? Skimmer efficiency might well improve but that isn’t ‘future’ but normal day to day progress, and the scope for such progress must be fairly limited. Mother Nature isn’t going to be ‘futured’, nature is what it is (though evolving nature is not denied of course).

The marine system now has a main display aquarium with live rock (which may well be manufactured by the aquarist or stockist and not come from the wild reef). In many cases there’s a sump. Sumps nowadays perform one function such as for example a deep sand bed, or could have an additional section containing a material filter etc.

The future of the marine aquarium could be lighting that is, on a reef anyway, LED’s. The display aquarium will be of various sizes as now. There could be a fitted unit to go beneath the aquarium which will contain the filter and other seawater treatment equipment required depending on the type of aquarium, fish only or reef. This is happening now of course, but mostly in a restricted way. The unit fitted could be, subject to depth available, tiered, that is, seawater could leave the display aquarium and flow through a top row of say two or three units, fall to a lower row before being pumped back up to the display aquarium. The seawater could pass through for example a skimmer, heater, deep sand bed, algae bed, carbon/phosphate remover, and pump unit plus circulation if driven from below, not necessarily in that order.

Not much difference there really from now, the difference being that the system is entire and contained, more so than it is now. It would remove all equipment from the display, even pumps if piping were routed from below. The restriction would be, as it is now, on space availability below the display – it’s still necessary to service the various areas, plus lighting could be required.

We have wonderful successes with marine aquariums now. The systems have advanced so far from the former dead white coral decorated aquariums of not that long ago. The main advance has been that aquariums are now more natural. Allowing the aquarium to have more ‘natural’ areas available with the seawater passing through must be good? There also isn’t a reason why creatures that we don’t really want in the display aquarium couldn’t be kept provided that the environment is suitable, that is it isn’t cruel.

Looking at the above it’s clear that much of the ‘advance’ is being done by some advanced aquarists anyway, who use multiple units to house various items to ‘naturalize’ the system more. Also it could be that little will change with most aquarists as space limitations apply and the ability of science to advance the aquarium is restricted, given the requirements of nature. Any advance in the future will probably be much less than from the sterility of the past to the ‘natural’ aquarium of today.

It’s interesting though.

Seawater Parameter Guidelines

Over and over the importance of seawater quality is emphasized. Seawater quality is the number one requirement for the marine aquarium, be this fish only, coral only or mixed reef. Most corals demand light for health and growth, nevertheless seawater quality is still the number one need.

Guidelines are useful for those who are not experienced in the marine hobby, including those who are setting up an aquarium for the first time as they can help towards purchasing the correct equipment such as pumps. They are also useful for those who feel their aquarium is not as it should be, perhaps fish are not as colourful as expected and corals slow to extend and show polyps. There are several reasons why this could be so but the first place to examine is the seawater.

Even if the seawater was at the correct parameters when first used, as soon as it enters the aquarium where there are life forms it begins to deteriorate. This needs to be counteracted by routine seawater changes of the correct amount and at the correct intervals.

As far as the guidelines are concerned, this is just what they are – guidelines not absolutes. The requirement is quality and stability. The guidelines give a starting point and it is up to the aquarist to carry out tests and know the trends of his/her aquarium. The use of a notebook to jot down the results of various tests is recommended, it takes very little time. The notes will indicate the need for supplementation for example, and at what period and amount. Another example is that notes will indicate the effectiveness of routine seawater changing – is nitrate increasing, stable, or perhaps decreasing? Should the amount of seawater changed be increased etc? Once the aquarist has gained experience then the guidelines can be amended if necessary, but always with caution.

Experienced aquarists could run their aquariums at levels clearly different from the guidelines. This could be for various reasons, such as a low SG (specific gravity) to combat certain fish problems. When any particular action is contemplated, always consider the potential impact it could have on other livestock types in the aquarium before proceeding. Research of livestock requirements is always worthwhile.

General guidelines are given for fish only and reef aquariums.

Temperature: Fish only and reef, between 75 and 80degF. As temperature increases oxygen decreases. It could be best to choose a ‘middle’ temperature of 77degF. Some experienced aquarists use a temperature a little over 80degF as this increases the metabolism of the entire aquarium population – again, caution is required.

SG (Specific Gravity): Fish Only, often from 1.020 to 1.022 though it can be higher (and should be if corals are present). There is some suggestion that certain unwanted parasites that afflict fish fare less well at a lower SG.

                                      Reef: normally 1.024 to 1.026.

pH (Potential of Hydrogen). Fish Only and Reef: between 8.0 and 8.4. A pH of 8.3 is often quoted as the ideal reading, and this is generally so, but other readings are acceptable with stability.

Alkalinity: Fish Only, seldom measured unless pH is a serious problem.

                    Reef, between 8 and 12 dKH.

Ammonia: Fish Only and Reef, nil.

Nitrite: Fish Only and Reef, nil.

Nitrate: Fish Only, below 30ppm but always as low as possible.

                Reef: below 10ppm but always as low as possible.

Phosphate: Fish Only, seldom measured unless algae is a serious problem.

                      Reef, undetectable.

Calcium: Fish Only, seldom measured.

                 Reef, Soft Corals – around 375/400ppm. Hard corals – around 450ppm or a little higher. Calcium also assists other life forms such as snails.

Routine Seawater Changes: Fish Only and Reef, 10% of the net gallonage of the aquarium (including sump if there is one) carried out weekly. Even if parameters remain healthy it is recommended that seawater changes continue, though this could be at a reduced level if applied with caution. Remember that seawater changes ‘freshen’ the aquarium and replace trace elements at least partially.

Seawater Movement: Fish Only, around 10 times the net gallonage of the aquarium (excluding any sump).

                                          Reef, Soft Corals – the same as fish only. Hard Corals, around 20 (or a little more) times the net gallonage of the aquarium (excluding any sump).

The guidelines given do not include items such as Iodine, Strontium and Magnesium which mainly apply to reef systems, particularly those stocked with hard corals. With some of these there is argument over how beneficial they could be. For basic purposes such inclusions generally confuse matters.

If the aquarist maintains basically high quality seawater and applies other necessities correctly, for example lighting and seawater movement the aquarium display should be beautiful. Additional considerations, if any, arise as experience grows and the trends and needs of the aquarium become known.

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