The Copperband Butterfly

There are quite a few fish that could be said to fly the flag for the marine hobby. One of them is a member of the clownfish club, the so called common clownfish, Amphiprion ocellaris, with its gaudy ‘painted on’ colours.

The fish that for me anyway is the king (or queen) of the reef is the copperband butterfly, Chelmon rostratus. It is striking in shape and colour, drawing the eye like a magnet.

The fish has the typical butterfly shape, though its body seems a little more elongated vertically. The colours are vertically striped, alternating between silver and more narrow ‘copper’, hence the name. The snout is long, and the tail clear. The fish could grow to around 5″ (circa 12.75cm). A suggested minimum aquarium length is 3 ft (circa 91.5cm), though larger is better.

The fish isn’t normally bothered by another of the same species in the aquarium, though aquarium size could have an effect on this. In addition, the food that the fish requires could well be exhausted if there are too many predating the same sources. It is generally best to have one, and to try to ensure that there aren’t any others that will also predate on the copperband’s prey.

Following on from the last paragraph, the best aquarium for the fish is a very mature reef system. This is because there is likely to be a considerable population of tiny life that the fish will hunt. It searches carefully for food, slowly moving along the rocks and using its long snout to drag food out when found. The fish is reef safe and is unlikely to damage corals. However, fanworms and some other worms will be attacked.

The usual fish that could be found in a reef system are reasonable tank mates for the copperband. Fish that are overly territorial and/or aggressive should be avoided. The copperband defends itself in the usual butterfly fish way; it dips forward and expands the dorsal fin, confronting the aggressor with spikes.

The copperband appears to be ideal for the reef aquarium and it is. However, there is one major potential drawback and this is feeding. When a copperband is purchased the aquarist takes a gamble on whether the fish will feed or not. It is reasonably certain that the fish will follow its instincts and hunt for live food as previously mentioned. However, is there enough live food among the reef structure to sustain it? When a copperband is being considered for purchase a request should be made to see it feeding, hopefully it will feed. Take a note of what the food supplied is, this could be used until the fish accepts a changed diet – if it does. There are as many aquarists who report trouble feeding the fish as there are who have no trouble at all.

When I kept a copperband it fed, but what a performance it was! There was insufficient live food in the aquarium to sustain it, so additional feeding had to be done, unfortunately the fish refused any food in the water column. I had to obtain a small sheet of acrylic and fasten some rock to it (the rock was cut so it had one flat side). The rock was full of holes and crevices so these were filled with defrosted food, anything from brine shrimp to bloodworm. The rock was then lowered into the aquarium and leaned against a glass panel. Sure enough, eventually the fish came and looked at the rock but didn’t take anything. It was decided that this was because the food didn’t move (I have no idea if this was the real reason) so I gently shook the rock plate until the copperband came and took some. Unfortunately, the fish never learned that the food was there anyway whether the rock shook or not, it wouldn’t eat unless the rock was shaken! So the copperband received dinner when the others had eaten theirs.

There is an alleged benefit with the copperband that could please reef aquarists immensely, and this is that it attacks and eats Aiptasia anemones. These anemones are the weeds of the aquarium and a real nuisance, the aquarist has to keep them under control or they will spread throughout the aquarium. The copperband as said could assist in the battle and possibly even control the anemones on its own. However, (there’s always a ‘but’ isn’t there), although many aquarists report the fish does indeed have a go at the anemones, including some well respected ones, there seems to be just as many who advise that their fish ignored them. It may be that the fish attacks the anemones, damaging them and keeping them closed up. I don’t actually know, but any assistance in the battle with Aiptasia can only be good!

The experienced aquarist who has a decent sized well aged reef aquarium could obtain a copperband, bearing in mind the comments on feeding. Hopefully the fish will feed well and find lots to eat within the aquarium. Also hopefully it will take food provided by the aquarist. If all is well, the captive reef will be adorned by a fish that is – what can I say – superb.

---

Another Skirmish In the Ongoing War

We marine aquarists are in a hobby that has advanced so much over the years. Our aquariums now hold livestock that yesteryear’s aquarist couldn’t even dream about. Some of the fish we keep were deemed exceptionally difficult or impossible to maintain, and as for corals, well, no chance of any of those.

Our aquarium success is because of high quality seawater and, with a reef, lighting. The habitat isn’t dead white corals and sand anymore, it is often live rock and what could be called living sand, as in a deep sand bed, with all manner of tiny life forms in and on it.

However, not everything is rosy. As with gardeners we now have to contend with ‘weeds’. Pesky things they are, poking their heads up just to let the aquarist know they’re there. Maybe it is the high quality of our aquariums that has contributed to the weed invasion, and most likely has a lot to do with the use of live rock.

So what are these weeds? They must, I’m certain, face predation on the wild reefs as there is always something that eats something else. Unfortunately these predators are not present with the captive reef, or not usually anyway.

The first aquarium weed and probably the most common in the hobby is Aiptasia, the glass anemone. These pop up and many a beginner has been pleased as a new life form has appeared on the reef. Not so great though, as left alone they can spread tremendously and become a real problem. There are alleged predators that could be used in the aquarium. I say ‘alleged’ because there are conflicting opinions born from experience as to their effectiveness. They can also be attacked chemically.

The second weed that concerns me is the commonly called Sailor’s Eyeballs, or Bubble Algae, properly called Ventricaria ventricosa. These are small round green balls that can grow singularly or more likely in groups. Their claim to fame is that they are reported to be the largest single celled organism in existence. Again at first they seem welcome as they are decorative. They are reported to do better in high quality seawater. However, left alone they can spread alarmingly and be an absolute nuisance. I have no idea what could predate on them, apart from the aquarist. They eventually burst and release high numbers of spores to populate other areas of the aquarium. Possibly some spores are captured by polyps in a reef aquarium, but if so many must successfully locate themselves.

Quite often when I carry out maintenance I note the presence of one or the other of these weeds, or occasionally both. I never manage to eradicate either, this must be just about impossible with a highly stocked reef and rocks that provide crevices and caves and other areas that are out of the aquarist’s view.

For a long time I have been battling the blighters. They aren’t a problem as they are not allowed to be, but if I neglected to deal with them for a length of time they’d have a party.

The Sailor’s Eyeballs if burst as said release spores, so I don’t want that thank you. I use a piece of rigid airline about 10 inches long, attached to a flexible airline. After starting a siphon, the eyeballs are burst one by one, any spores of course being drawn into the siphon. It works well and considerable speed can be achieved with a little experience. I don’t want to sound weird, but it can even be quite pleasurable bursting them, a bit like bursting the bubbles in bubble-wrap. Maybe I’m just strange!

Aiptasia anemones are attacked in a different way. I don’t use any of the alleged natural predators, though one of them, the Copper Band Butterfly (Chelmon rostratus) is my favourite fish. I use a chemical concoction produced commercially and applied with a dropper. It’s very easy. A small squirt of the stuff on an Aiptasia causes an immediate reaction and destroys the anemone. There is a drawback though, isn’t there always? No, it isn’t the fact that a chemical is going into the seawater; this has never had any detrimental effect, even in a minor way, on any of my livestock, corals, fish or whatever. The problem is one that I wasn’t aware of until I read the information on the internet. I am unable to state if it is supported by science. Apparently, the Aiptasia ‘know’ when they are under attack and take protective action. They are destroyed as said, but before oblivion they release spores into the seawater, a sort of emergency response. If this is correct, the act of destroying them produces a chance of a good few more. Thumbs up, just what I had hoped for, I don’t think!

Whatever, the weeds aren’t allowed to advance too far before their numbers are reduced. I must say sometimes I get irritated with the little monsters. However, they are part of the wild reef and Mother Nature’s great design, so who am I to complain?

---

An Aiptasia Predator

Marine aquarists, generally, have all the pleasure and little grief, with high seawater quality and a happy mix of livestock. True, on occasion there can be some trouble – with algae for example, but generally it’s a peaceful and pleasurable hobby. It is with me.

There is one thing wrong though, which doesn’t really harm the pleasure but is irritating nevertheless. There is an ongoing battle with the aiptasia anemone and this is happening in many aquariums, particularly reefs. I control the little blighters with Joe’s Juice, a commercial application that kills the anemone it is applied to. There are other commercial formulations available. Unfortunately, as I understand it, when the anemone is attacked it releases emergency spores, so though the parent is doomed the babies are going to grow for the next round. In addition, in a reef system there are many caves and crevices and all the aiptasia cannot be eliminated.

There are natural controls such as the copperband butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus). This fish is a beauty in itself and is recommended by some respected authorities. However, not all aquarium systems are suitable and the fish is not suitable to a beginner.

There is another predator that is hitting the headlines, and it is a nudibranch. These creatures are like snails without a shell. Some of them are really lovely and others not. The one of interest here is fairly small and quite good looking. Its proper name is Berghia verrucicornis.

The natural diet of the nudibranch is aiptasia. They are otherwise reef safe and could breed in the aquarium, all conditions being acceptable. They are sociable with each other so more than one can be kept. What a discovery! Aiptasia, the writing is on the wall!

These little creatures are already being commercially bred and can be purchased for home delivery. Unfortunately, as far as I can tell European aquarists may have to wait a while for supplies to materialize. Aquarists in the United States are more fortunate as they are currently available.

The nudibranchs need to be acclimatized carefully and information is provided about this. Once settled they are reported to be hardy.

It is of course important that there isn’t anything in the aquarium which will harm the nudibranchs and checks will need to be made.

There are two links following that are concerned with the nudibranch. Anyone wishing to find out more has only to go into Google and type in the nudibranch’s proper name and further links will be found.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/ac/feature/index.php

http://www.berghia.net/

---

Sigh!

I really like my soft coral reef – all the time it developed over the last 5½+ years and how it is now. It is really full of a diverse range of corals coloured various pastel shades, the tall ones swaying in the currents. There is hardly any rock to be seen as it is nearly all covered. The rear glass and one side are decorated with varying shades of algae, purple, dark and light green, brown and, thankfully, not a trace of the nuisance stuff.

Three fish were originally housed, a flame angel (Centropyge loricula), a flashback dottyback (Pseudochromis diadema), and a blue devil damsel (Chrysiptera cyanea). They were all chosen as they would be able to stand up to each other’s aggressiveness. This proved to be the case; the flame angel became boss quickly. They were all introduced to the tank at the same time.

The dottyback at 2½ years disappeared and I have no idea why. The fish was well fed with rounded body, good fins and clear eyes. Perhaps it got itself stuck in the rockwork somewhere? As said I haven’t a clue as to the reason. To date it hasn’t been replaced as the other two are really well settled healthy and happy. I don’t want to upset the equilibrium, and am also afraid that two quite aggressive fish, well established, could pick on a newcomer with sad results.

The system started off with canister bio-filtration (yes, I know, but I’m coming to live rock). There’s a skimmer (of course!) and also a home-made reverse flow anti-phosphate reactor. There’s also a home-made anti-nitrate sulphur based reactor.

As time passed I wondered if there would be a need for the de-nitrator any more. It was originally attached because of the presence of canister filtration and the consequent production of nitrate. The seawater never showed any trace of nitrate. The rocks that had been used for the reef were not live but inert hard porous types, locally called Grotto rock. I don’t know the proper geological name. Anyway, the rock became covered with all sorts of growths and looked after time had passed very much like live rock. I decided that the nitrate was being dealt with by the now live rock. So switch off the de-nitrator then. This was done but only after I’d dithered for another few months, and after the device had been switched off I needed to do nitrate tests regularly to assure myself all remained well. It did, and to date there hasn’t been any nitrate detected.

The anti-phosphate reactor is still running and will not be stopped. There has never been any phosphate detected.

Originally I ran two Eheim canister filters containing bio media. One has had the media removed and now runs empty – I am considering what to do with this, if anything. The other still contains bio media and I am considering removing that too. The rocks will contain sufficient bacteria, but I am always cautious. Once the second canister is empty ammonia checks will be done for a while, again to confirm that bio filtration is adequate. The livestock, all corals and two small fish, is not exactly a heavy load.

I sit and look at this system having seen it develop and continue to develop and feel really pleased overall. It’s so interesting, corals and fish as said, but also tiny life that darts about on the rocks and deep sand bed particularly at night.

Being so pleased, what’s the big ‘Sigh’ about? Well, it’s about defeat. At least, defeat up to now.

I’ve had two problems. One was those little green balls, known as Sailor’s Eyeballs, properly known as Ventricosa ventricosa. It is a green algae that is thought to be the largest single-celled organism on earth. It’s also quite attractive, at least it is until it begins to spread. Inside each ball are spores – if the algae is broken the spores go all over the place and new algae grows. In time the algae can overwhelm an aquarium. However, I obtained a length of rigid airline and some flexible airline, and went round at seawater change time bursting the algae. The seawater running down the tube to a bucket carried the spores with it. The algae was defeated – occasionally two or three appear but meet the same fate. No problem – very happy.

So! Explain the sigh. Yes, to date I am defeated. Well, not entirely to be truthful. I’ll mention the words Aiptasia and Manjano and there are so many aquarists who will no doubt say ‘Ah’ sympathetically. The dreadful anemones, weeds of the reef. They seem to grow so easily and often pick a spot that is really awkward. They don’t have intelligence do they?

I have never made the mistake of squashing them or scraping at them, this will only spread them around. I’ve considered the natural possible remedies – the Copperband butterfly (Chelmon rostratus) and the peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). I won’t try the Copperband for the reasons stated earlier, but I might try the shrimps. Reports on the internet, anecdotal not scientific, suggest that they could eat the anemones not that they will. It is quite likely that I’d get shrimps that turned their noses up at them.

So to date I’ve used Joe’s juice. This is successful and clearly destroys the anemone quite quickly. So how do the things keep re-appearing? When they do re-appear they are small, so they are new growths. Wandering around on the internet I found that apparently the anemones recognize the Joe’s Juice application as deadly. It is said that as they are attacked they release what could be termed ‘emergency’ spores – and hence new anemones appear. There is a new application available which apparently the anemones do not recognize as dangerous. Perhaps I’ll try that after a time so that effectiveness can be judged.

I said that I hadn’t been fully defeated by the anemones. There aren’t that many in the tank as periodically I attack them all when they are small – they are not allowed to grow (except one or two that have lodged in very difficult places, letting them grow a bit provides a bigger target). They don’t spoil the appearance of the reef at all. It’s just…well…they’re there and I know they are and they shouldn’t be! Why don’t they comply the little perishers.

A gardener doesn’t give up because there are weeds to be dealt with. There is no way I’ll allow the anemone to get too far under my skin. I tell myself they are part of nature; they’ll be on the reef. On the reef of course will be an efficient predator.

I enjoy my reef immensely and will continue to do so. The anemones are the only thing that I’ve not had success with. Sigh. But one day!

---

Aiptasia – Death By Fire!

I found a really interesting article over at Elder Reef today. Andy has found what looks like a really unique way to clear the aquarium of aiptasia.

Aiptasia can very easily become a pest in the saltwater aquarium. At first they appear to be a welcome addition, however before long they reach plague like propotions in the aquarium and are very hard to clear.

There are various prducts on teh market, Joe’s Juice, Aiptasia-X and others for example, however these do not always work.

Andy has found a new way – burn them off!

From the article it looks like it does work, time will tell if they return or not and I hope Andy updates us on his blog with the progress. If it does work then this is great for rocks which you can rremove from the aquarium. For the rocks which are hard to remove then this technique might be a little trickier – let’s face it water and fire dont really mix.

Check it out – excellent read.

http://reef.eldersign.org/?p=317

---

Reef Aquarium Pests

As with most hobbies there are some things that are definitely undesirable. Keeping a saltwater reef aquarium or [tag-tec]saltwater fish only aquarium[/tag-tec] is a most fulfilling hobby, but irritating problems can occur.

For example, outbreaks of filamentous green algae, brown/black/red smear algae, [tag-tec]glass anemones[/tag-tec] and bubble algae (sailor’s eyeball algae) are four of the major culprits. These problems can develop into major headaches if proper action during setting-up and the following care and maintenance are not taken.

The really annoying part is that glass anemones and [tag-ice]bubble algae[/tag-ice] can be decorative at first. In fact, an unwary and inexperienced aquarist might be pleased with his new additions.

These problems usually arrive with new corals, or, rather, on the rocks the new corals are attached to. Live rock can also introduce them.

A major cause of [tag-self]algae problems[/tag-self] is low water quality, that is, water that has too high levels of nitrate and phosphate. It has been reported that filamentous green algae, smear algae, and glass anemones do well in the presence of nitrate and phosphate.

To make bubble algae (sailor’s eyeball algae) even more annoying, it is said that to do well it needs high quality water. So if they appear in your tank, definitely take control action, but at least be pleased that your water is good.

I have dealt with bubble algae successfully. I have also waged war with glass anemones, but have found that, once the war is generally won, occasionally control action is needed when another pops its unwelcome head up.

The answer to these problems is the proper setting up of a tank from the start, and ongoing care and maintenance.

These reef aquarium pests may never invade your tank at all, but it is probable that one or the other will appear. Be aware, and be prepared with the necessary knowledge to take remedial action.