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The Rose Anemone

May 1, 2009

One of the most intriguing sights within a marine aquarium is an anemone with a clownfish or two. The clown fish on its own, particularly certain types such as the common clown fish (Amphiprion ocellaris), could be the flag for marines. Seeing a clownfish dwelling among the stinging tentacles of an anemone adds to it. It should be mentioned that clownfish have anemone preferences, and a check should be made if a clownfish is to be offered an anemone as home.

While in cautionary mode, it should be noted that anemones are not for novices, it is necessary that experience is gained first, experience in maintaining high quality seawater and equally high quality general habitat. In addition, anemones such as the one looked at here require correct lighting, in the same way that most commonly kept corals do. This is because of the presence of zooxanthellae, single celled symbiotic algae within the flesh. The zooxanthellae give the anemone its colours.

The Rose Anemone is properly called Entacmaea quadricolor. Looking at the proper name it is clear why it is also commonly known as the four coloured anemone. It can also be recognized as a short part of the tentacles are bulbous, this occurs towards the ends. Remembering that some clownfish refuse for some reason to take up home in an anemone even though it is of the correct type, the Rose Anemone should be acceptable to Amphiprion bicinctus, A. clarki, A. ephippium, and A. frenatus. That’s quite a choice, but as said there’s no guarantee.

Some symbiotic anemones will anchor themselves in the substrata which can sometimes present a positioning problem for the aquarist. The Rose Anemone however doesn’t require substrata, it is happy on rocks. Well, that isn’t completely correct, it is happy between rocks in a fairly deep cleft, which is best smooth, meaning smooth sides and bottom. The anemone is able to contract considerably into the cleft if threatened. They should not be in the direct flow from any powerhead or the like, the seawater flow is preferred to be gentle. In a reef system positioning would need some thought because of the high seawater flow, and at the same time remembering the anemone’s light requirements.

Having mentioned the anemone’s preferences, it would seem that this particular one is fussy. However, it is reported to be one of the easiest, or perhaps the easiest anemone to keep among the symbiotic types (symbiotic = anemone/clownfish).

There is one potential habit with this anemone that some aquarists face and others not – it can without apparent reason go wandering. Even though the anemone has been provided with all necessary requirements to settle, it could go for a walk which is not going to necessarily please the aquarist. It could end up a very short distance away from where it was placed, or it could end up down the back of rocks hardly on view and the like. Or it could stay exactly where put!

If the anemone does move to a position unacceptable to the aquarist it could be transferred to a new area which again is designed to meet all its needs. Care has to be taken, as the anemone could well be well fastened to a rock and clumsy attempts to release it could cause damage and affect its health. If at all possible, if the anemone is fastened to a rock, the rock should be moved to a new area with the anemone and be used in the construction of the new cleft. With a prayer for good luck maybe the anemone will stay put.

Feeding the anemone is easy, all that is required is a smallish piece of mussel, lancefish or the like. Once or twice a week the food is placed on the tentacles, and the anemone will transport it to the mouth. If a clownfish is present it is possible that the food will become of immediate interest and it may not reach the mouth, so this needs to be watched for.

The anemone could reach a diameter of 20 inches (circa 50.75 cm) though this is unlikely in an aquarium. Having said that, I once kept a symbiotic anemone of a different type that grew so large it had to go back to the local fish shop. Sadly, the clownfish also went with it.

As said, symbiotic anemones are not for the inexperienced. If including one in the display is being considered, then this one is reported to be a little ‘easier’. Watch out for walkabouts though!

The link provides some pictures.

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Entacmaea+quadricolor&x=54&y=12

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Anemones Sometimes Go For A Walk…

October 23, 2008

An anemone is a superb addition to a marine aquarium. With their tentacle gently swaying in the water currents, their unique way in catching food, their breathtaking relationship with anemone fish etc it is no surprise that a lot of aquarists consider adding one to their aquarium.

However….

An anemone should never be added to an aquarium which is not stable. When I say stable I do not mean that all parameters are now ok in the water I mean that they have remained excellent for a long time. Also the aquarists should have enough experience and confidence before even considering such an animal.

This does not mean that you shouldn’t have one though – it just might mean you need to wait a while!

Three things are a definitive requirement for an anemone to thrive:

1. Excellent water quality
2. Suitable lighting
3. Food

The top two go without saying as this is a requirement for any animal in the aquarium and I suppose in a way the bottom one does as well. In the wild anemones feed by luring other fish into their tentacles using their resident anemone fish as bait however in the aquarium this should not happen as research will have been performed to ensure that this should not happen. It may happen but let’s hope not.

Therefore it is imperative that the anemone is fed. Small pieces of fish etc will suffice but you need to ensure that any waste is removed as an extra load on the bio-load will be introduced.

Another thing that is often presumed is that an anemone fish must be kept with an anemone for it to survive. This is not the case – an anemone will survive just fine without one as long as the requirements of the anemone are met.

The same goes for anemone fish – some people presume that an anemone must be kept for them to thrive. Again not the case – they will do just fine.

Now comes the annoying bit about anemones – they do not always want to stay where you put them!

When an anemone is considered there will probably be an area in the aquarium where you think it will look great however after the anemone is introduced to the aquarium it later cannot be located. After a few hours of desperate searching it can be located at the rear of the aquarium behind all the rocks!

Anemones have the ability to walk around on their foot. If they are not comfortable in the position you place them they will simply go for a walk looking for a suitable area. This could be due to too much water movement, not enough water movement, too strong lighting, not enough lighting etc.

Fussy little blighters really!

Like all animals it is therefore essential to research the anemone prior to purchase and attempt to identify an area in the aquarium where it’s needs are met. Anemones like to get their foot down so that it is secure. There are some which like to force their foot into the rockwork, others which prefer sand and others which prefer smooth surfaces. Again research is required to ensure that you correct location is available in the aquarium.

As said the anemone, if the requirements are not met will walk around the aquarium looking for a suitable area. The annoying thing about this is that it may find a suitable area which is looking out of the rear, under a water outlet, stuck on the front glass etc.

Another thing to consider and this is due to the anemones ability to walk around the aquarium is that powerhead/water pump inlets must be protected as the anemone will get sucked into the inlet and literally smashed to pieces – not a nice way to go I’m sure you will agree. Another thing is to protect any overflows if you have any present as the anemone may take a liking to this area and you could come home to a flood or a severely jammed anemone in the pipework!

Considering all of the people it does make you wonder why aquarists even consider the purchase of an anemone. To be honest if the research is done and all requirements met then you should be ok. I say should as nothing can ever be guaranteed. You never know you may identify an area which is suitable and the anemone stays there for many years.

One of the aquariums I would love to create is a 2 foot by 2 foot cube with an anemone in it and clown fish. I find the symbiotic relationship fascinating and think that this would be a very interesting project. If you have done this then I would love to hear about and especially see some pictures.

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The Bubble Tip Anemone

September 5, 2008

Bubble Tip AnemoneThere are a few anemones that find favour with aquarists and this is one of them. As well as the name in the title they are also commonly known as the four coloured anemone, the bulb tentacle anemone, and the bulb anemone. The proper name is Entacmaea quadricolor.

The anemone is one which requires good lighting as it contains symbiotic algae, and it is this algae that gives the anemone its colour. Good lighting is defined in the same way that lighting for corals is, and that is it must be sufficiently intense and of the correct spectrum. If the anemone is to be located quite low down in a deep aquarium then metal halides will be required.

Again in the same way as corals, good seawater movement is needed. This does not need to be particularly strong, just strong, moving the tentacles and swaying the body. Current from a power head should not hit the anemone directly.

The final requirement needed to settle the anemone happily in its home is to provide it with the correct position from a security point of view. When placing the anemone on the reef ensure that the anemone when fully open will not interfere with neighboring corals, but the most important point is to ensure that the foot of the anemone is located in a fairly deep crevice or hole, not a tight squeeze but a good generous loose fit. The anemone should anchor itself within the hole or crevice, which will also give it protection should it require it. It is unlikely that this will be needed in a home aquarium but the anemone doesn’t know this!

Failure to provide the named requirements, some of them, or one of them will either result in the demise of the anemone, or it will be very tiresome and start wandering around the aquarium looking for what is missing. I located an anemone in an earlier aquarium, meeting all the above needs, and it stayed put from the word go. Finally the anemone had to be removed as it just became too big.

Talking of size, the aquarist should be aware that this anemone could achieve a diameter of around 18″ (circa 45.75cm). Therefore it is not suitable for small aquariums; a length of say 48″ (circa 122cm) should be suitable.

It is my opinion that new aquarists without experience should not purchase this anemone (or any other) until such time as they have some experience. If the aquarist has kept an aquarium for a year successfully, that is, has maintained high seawater quality and the fish and corals have done and are doing well, then that is a reasonable time to consider an anemone.

Once in the aquarium a little time is needed for the anemone to indicate that it is settled. The indication is that it stays in one place, expands fully and is in good colour (meaning the algae are functioning therefore the lighting is acceptable).

Feeding is simplicity itself. First of all the anemone obtains nutrients from the symbiotic algae and feeding should not be overdone. When required, the anemone will accept a small piece of fish or mussel. This can be placed towards the mouth within the tentacles, when the anemone should respond and move the food to the mouth. Feed once or twice a week to start and build on experience.

This anemone in common with others contains nematocysts in the tentacles, which are like small harpoons that are activated on contact with a fish or shrimp. They penetrate the body of the victim and inject a toxin enabling the anemone to overpower and devour. There isn’t usually a distinction made for the aquarist’s prize livestock! Having said that, most fish seem to have an inbuilt instinct to keep away from the danger. I clearly recall becoming tense on more than one occasion when a lovely fish, intent on its search for food, seemed to be so, so close to the anemone ” but I didn’t lose any.

Many aquarists are keen to associate an anemone with a clownfish. Well, Entacmaea quadricolor is one of the anemones that act as hosts for clownfish. It is important not to overload an anemone with clownfish, usually one or maybe two is quite sufficient in an aquarium. No attempt should be made to host a clownfish until the anemone is known to be settled. The clownfish that are known to inhabit this anemone are Amphiprion clarki, Amphiprion ephippium, Amphiprion frenatus and Amphiprion melanopus.

It has been known, more than once, that a suitable clownfish has been placed in an aquarium containing a host anemone, only for the clownfish to totally ignore the anemone. Why this is I cannot say – is it because the fish was aquarium bred? If so, perhaps the fish doesn’t know it is supposed to live in an anemone! As said, I don’t really know. Fortunately, I have managed to obtain clownfish in the past that have been cooperative.

So if the aquarist has the experience and can provide the conditions, an anemone is worthwhile. If the anemone settles well and a clownfish (of the correct type) is introduced, then the aquarist will have the pleasure of seeing one of Nature’s strange and amazing combinations.

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Clownfish Anemones

April 21, 2008

The term ‘clownfish anemone’ is an incorrect description, but it describes them well enough. These are the anemones that clownfish use as a home. Probably nearly everyone, aquarist or not, has seen the amazing sight of an unharmed clownfish within the stinging tentacles.

Some of these anemones are in fact called the Carpet Anemone (Stichodactyla gigantea), the Pink Anemone (Heteractis malu), the Bulb Anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor), and Ritteri Anemone (Heteractis magnifica). There are others.

The anemone is more likely to settle well into an aged aquarium. In other words, a system that has been running for quite a few months as this normally means that it is stable. The bio-filtration has settled down and the rock structures have a population of some algae and tiny life. I know of one retailer who will not sell one of these anemones to an aquarist unless his/her system is at least 9 months old.

There are other points to note. The first is the often repeated one – water quality must be high. It should also be noted that lighting needs to be correct as the anemones contain symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae). In a reef aquarium this is normally not a problem as the corals have the same requirement, but in a fish only system (provided the water quality is high enough) the lighting might need alteration.

When purchasing an anemone be sure that there aren’t any signs of damage, particularly on the foot. Sometimes there is damage in that area as getting the anemone off its rock is very difficult. It is much better if there is a rock attached. It is a good idea that when the anemone has been chosen at the retailers, research the natural colour. If the anemone is not this colour, but pale white (unless its meant to be white) or translucent, don’t buy it.

Also these anemones can grow large. I had one which completely outgrew my aquarium and I had to sadly let it go complete with clownfish (I couldn’t bear to separate them). Research will indicate the chosen anemone’s potential size.

Make sure pump intakes and overflows are guarded. If the anemone does wander as it might (see below) it could get sucked into a pump or overflow and be badly damaged.

Placement in the aquarium is very important. If the anemone is not happy with its position it is likely to wander until it is. Much to the irritation of the aquarist it may decide the perfect spot is on the front viewing glass, or somewhere else that is inappropriate.

The anemone should be placed fairly high on the reef, even on the top. The foot should go in a hole or crevice, as the anemone should be happy with that from a defensive point of view – they can contract into it, at least to an extent for protection. If there is a rock attached already to the anemone, don’t try to take it off. The anemone’s grip is very strong and damage to the foot is likely. Just make a hole for the rock to go into, leaving a suitable crevice or such above as described. If there isn’t a rock attached, the anemone should be placed into a crevice etc and given time to attach. To facilitate this circulation pumps may need to be turned off for a few hours (not the bio-filters if these are pump driven). The anemone should attach quite quickly – much more rapidly than a coral.

So the anemone is in place and has adequate lighting. There is one more requirement, and that is water movement. The surface of the anemone should be disturbed by random water movement (that is, not continuously one-directional). The flow need not be powerful, but moderately so. This can be judged by the tentacles when the anemone is expanded, they should wave about like flowers in a moderate breeze.

It seems anemones are fussy. Perhaps they are, but once settled they will give little trouble if water and lighting quality are maintained.

Feeding couldn’t be more simple. It is reported that the anemones can survive but not grow and multiply from the products of the zooxanthellae only, they need additional food. They are well equipped for this, as they have stings in the tentacles (nematocysts) which are fired into the prey when stimulated and poison is delivered. The food can be a small part of a frozen fish etc, the normal aquarium food used for feeding other livestock. The food should be cut fairly small, defrosted (not in a microwave, use seawater or R/O water) and placed in the tentacles. The anemone will move it to the mouth. If there is a resident clownfish it may well steal the food, even though it is too big for the fish to eat. In this case, place the food as close as possible to the mouth of the anemone and ensure the tentacles take hold. Recalling my clownfish, it would even do its best to pull the food out from the anemone’s mouth. It was always interested in the anemone’s food, even though it had been purposely fed beforehand. Don’t overfeed the anemone, once or twice a week should suffice.

Clownfish will not always take up residence in an anemone, much to the aquarist’s disappointment. Some aquarists declare that this is because they are tank bred, and do not recognise the anemone. I don’t dispute this, but what of the young in the wild, they have no formal education that ’this is an anemone’ but find one nevertheless. In addition, tank bred clownfish are known to adopt an anemone, it has been reported often. Perhaps it is instinct.

I would suggest that failure to adopt an anemone could be because it may be the wrong type of anemone. It is known that different clownfish favour different anemones. In view of this I have added a link at the end of the text so that a check can be made.

Bear in mind when considering an anemone that they are equipped to catch prey. The fish in the aquarium are prey for the most part as far as the anemone is concerned. This could occur when a fish swims close to the anemone and gets ‘blown’ in by the water currents. I recall having my heart in my mouth a good few times at how close some fish ventured, but fortunately a mishap never occurred.

An anemone, particularly if it has an attendant clownfish or two, is a really interesting addition to the aquarium. They need good husbandry and they could get large!

http://www.fishlore.com/clownfishanemonechart.htm

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Clownfish For Anemones

March 3, 2008

I recently did a short text on anemones. One of the reasons anemones are wanted by the aquarist is their relationship with an anemone. This relationship is remarkable and it is understandable why an aquarist would wish to duplicate this in an aquarium.

For the relationship to work it is obvious that aquarium conditions must be correct. Clownfish are generally hardy (in marine terms) and, if there are problems, it is usually the anemone that fails to thrive. It is important that the anemone is happy by providing the correct lighting, water movement and space (anemones can grow as I found out in the early days!).

Clownfish are lovely fish in their own right. They will live in an aquarium without an anemone, but if the aquarium is a reef with corals, they may well decide to make their home in, say, a mushroom coral (Sarcophyton sp) or similar. I’ve seen this occur in Peter’s aquarium and the coral didn’t seem to be affected by the clownfish’s presence at all. Then again, some clownfish do not make their home in a provided anemone, even if it is one of the preferred species. Why this is I’m not sure, but maybe it is because the clownfish were home bred and just don’t know what to do? Maybe!

It is best to house just one species of clownfish with an anemone, although it is known for different clownfish to co-exist. If they are mixed, aggression may occur and this is certainly not wanted. What is wanted is peace and harmony as far as possible. To be cautious, present the anemone with just two clownfish of the same species. Even the same species may show aggression if there are just too many, and of course the anemone will be none too keen either.

My favourite clownfish is the so called common clown (a bit of injustice there, fancy calling the little beauties common), the proper name is Amphiprion ocellaris. I kept one of these with an anemone for a couple of years. Unfortunately the anemone grew too large, so I took it to the retailers along with the clownfish. I asked the retailer to sell the anemone and the clownfish together, he later told me he had done that. I hope the two had a long life in a suitably sized aquarium.

So, after choosing the clownfish check which anemone is preferred, then make sure the aquarium is spacious enough.

With proper pre-purchase checks, proper water quality, lighting and feeding, the aquarist should be rewarded with one of nature’s amazing sights – clownfish in the security of a host anemone.

Below is a link to help choose the correct anemone and clownfish.

http://www.bestfish.com/tips/032698.html

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Keeping An Anemone

March 1, 2008

There is understandably great fascination with some anemones, mainly because of their well known association with clownfish. Seeing these colourful little fish nestling in among what are normally dangerous tentacles is amazing.

Before an aquarist obtains an anemone, the usual research into type and requirements is necessary. Many anemones require good [tag-self]aquarium lighting[/tag-self] because of symbiotic algae, and water movement must be to their liking. In fact, and much to the aquarist’s annoyance, if an anemone is not happy with its position in the aquarium it may well go for a walkabout.

As with all marine livestock, the aquarist must be careful when buying. The anemone shouldn’t show any signs of damage anywhere. If there is damage to the crown or stalk then a purchase should not be made. There can also be damage to the base foot, which attaches the anemone to the rock. Sometimes this area is damaged during collection. It is more difficult to spot problems in this area, the aquarist can but do their best. Retailers are usually willing to spin a specimen round underwater to facilitate inspection.

When positioning an anemone in the aquarium try and put the foot in a hollow in the rock work if possible, with the crown fairly close to the water surface (but not too close because of expansion etc). Water flow should not be fierce, only moderate, and should be random rather than linear. Hopefully this will mean that the anemone will settle in the aquarist’s chosen position, but is not a guarantee.

Feeding is not a problem. A piece of de-frozen lancefish once or twice a week will usually suffice. Dropping the fish onto the tentacles is easy, the fish will be taken and moved towards the mouth.

Keeping an anemone is not for everyone and is not suitable for any marine aquarium. As with other livestock, some are more difficult to keep than others. As said, pre-purchase research is necessary and a clear understanding of the needs of the anemone obtained. If the attention is to keep clownfish with the anemone, then it should be noted that different clownfish have different preferences for anemone types. It could be that a clownfish doesn’t take to an anemone at all, even though carefully chosen.

Could it be that the clownfish is aquarium bred and doesn’t ‘know‘?

To assist in obtaining information on some of the more popular anemone types I have provided a link, below.

http://fins.actwin.com/species/anemone.html

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I needed a bigger tank.

May 29, 2007

Aquarists with a salt water aquarium usually (ignoring fish only systems) fill them with fascinating life forms of the reef. This can be soft corals, hard corals and a host of other potential inhabitants.

In the setting up stage great efforts are made to ensure that water quality and lighting are adequate, and the overall habitat is suitable for the inhabitants. The aquarium should then thrive, with the permission of nature and perhaps a little bit of luck. [Read more]

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