Beautiful Encrusting Algae But There’s A Small Downside

Marine aquarists try very hard to create a beautiful aquarium – whether the system is fish only or reef that is the target. These attempts are generally successful and often the picture is enhanced by Mother Nature. Mother Nature obviously provides the ‘eye targets’, the colourful fish and corals.

In the aquarium are usually rocks – whether fish only or reef this could be to provide homes and also be decorative. Both, particularly reef, could be ‘living rock’ for biological filtration. This rock is normally interesting in shape and over time provides a base for algae growth.

At this point the assumption is that the aquarist has properly maintained seawater quality which in turn means that stocking levels are acceptable. It’s also assumed that lighting is adequate.

Encrusting algae, often known as coralline algae which is more accurate, is lovely. It can cover upper surfaces of rocks and make a real contribution to the overall aquarium picture. Often it is introduced to the aquarium on live rock from the dealer or another aquarist. Helpfully, ordinary maintenance seems to assist in its spread.

I’ve taken some photos from areas in my aquarium (I’m not an expert on photography so hopefully they’re adequate!). The heading photo has nothing to do with the subject, it’s just that my flame angel (Centropyge loriculus) cruised by and I couldn’t resist pressing the button.

The next two photos show interesting formations created by the algae as it grows. As is often the case there is beauty in the detail. There is much more in the aquarium that isn’t shown.

Ok, so what’s this downside that has been mentioned? There’s always a price to be paid for anything, and the price demanded for this algae is in an extension of maintenance. However, this isn’t much.

The algae not only uses rocks as a base, it’s quite happy to use glass. On the rear glass this doesn’t matter, and in my case the left hand glass can be left as well. However, the other viewing glasses need to be cleaned periodically. Of course this is already done to deal with the green stuff that accumulates but unfortunately a magnet cleaner doesn’t usually remove the encrusting algae. Therefore a razor cleaner is the best tool.

The next two photos show growth on a corner and on a horizontal glass pump support. Coralline algae seems to like growing in the corners of the aquarium – or at least it does in mine. Cleaning is not a problem with a razor but make sure the razor is sharp and also have regard to the silicone joints if there are any.

Calcium testing is normally carried out where there is a known need for it. There is another test that is generally beneficial particularly with a reef and that is alkalinity. I maintain my alkalinity at about 4.0 meq/l (it drops off slowly, I test at routine seawater changes) and this seems to benefit the encrusting algae – not only the coralline but other types present as well. Maintaining a higher alkalinity is considered to be desirable with a reef system but is not essential.

It has been mentioned that routine maintenance could assist with the spread of coralline algae. When the algae is being scraped off the glass it disperses into the seawater and this seems to generate further growth in other areas of the aquarium, though I have never seen any scientific or other confirmation of this.

One more concern has been raised in the past – does the coralline algae presence on live rock reduce the effectiveness of live rock filtration. Bacteria essential to the well-being of the livestock dwell within the rock so could seawater fail to reach the bacteria causing their demise followed by serious problems? ‘No’ has to be the answer. Though, as far as I know, there hasn’t been serious or scientific testing of this question there hasn’t been a reported failure of filtration, again as far as I know. There are marine aquarists far and wide who are delighted with the presence of the algae. Personally I’m also delighted and have never had a problem with filtration because of the algae presence.

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Algae – Friend Or Foe?

Mention the word ‘algae’ to different marine aquarists and the reaction could be mainly one of two, a look of horror perhaps bordering on panic or a smile and a nod. It all depends.

To some aquarists algae is most definitely a foe. These aquarists are, in the main, novices who are gathering experience and have found out the hard way the consequences of over feeding, over stocking, or over lighting. There could even be a combination. One consequence is long hairy green stuff waving in the currents as though it is making fun of the suffering aquarist. Green filamentous algae can spread to such an extent it overgrows the whole aquarium! It seems to be hardy too, as even if the nutrient level is reduced the monstrous stuff seems to survive for quite a while. It takes the nutrients out of the seawater of course which is the only saving grace I can think of. No, there’s one more, which is that it is food for some fish. Nevertheless, it is not required in abundance.

Similarly, slime alga is a problem. This time it is like thin semi-solidified goo on surfaces which is capable of suffocating the life out of anything it covers, again definitely not required. Fortunately it can be siphoned out at routine seawater changes but tends to linger for a while.

So who smiles at algae? It has to be those aquarists who have control of their aquarium conditions. Seawater parameters are as they should be and not permitted to be anything else. Some of these aquarists use algae to combat other algae, which sounds like justice to me! For example, nitrate and phosphate are implicated in the growth of nuisance algae. The same nutrients are necessary to some decorative algae. So, take some decorative algae, such as the Caulerpa macro type, and grow it in reasonable quantity in favourable conditions. If the bad algae is being physically removed and the good algae is taking in nutrients and in favourable conditions, which will lose out? It is likely to be the bad algae. Many use the system and it is definitely helpful.

Have a look at the imported photo with this text. Is that some of the hairy stuff I see?

I’m going off track a little but remaining with algae. Here’s another positive for algae which could develop beyond the intended stated use in a few years. Hope it proves to be of huge benefit!

http://coast2coastam.net/?p=198

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How To Increase The Amount Of Coralline Algae In The Saltwater Aquarium

When you start a saltwater aquarium and have purchased your live rock or whatever decorations you are going to use then there will probably not be that much coralline algae in the system (especially if you have chosen not to use live rock!)

If you are using live rock then dependant upon the quality of the live rock you should have some coralline algae of some type or other.

So how do you increase the amount of coralline algae in the aquarium or in some cases add coralline algae.

There are effectively four areas which need to be taken into consideration here:

• Seeding
• Lighting
• Parameters
• As always – patience…

Let’s take a peek at each of these in turn.

Seeding

If you are using live rock in the aquarium then there should be a good covering of coralline algae on the live rock so you do not actually need to seed it, however you do need to ensure that you provide the coralline algae with what it requires to thrive.

If you are not using live rock then you will need to seed the aquarium. This can be performed in a few ways.

• Purchase a few pieces of live rock and add these to the aquarium.
• Obtain some coralline algae ‘scrapings’ and add these to the aquarium.
• When you aquarium is cycled and is ready for the introduction of corals then purchase a suitable coral which is on a nice piece of coralline covered rock.
• Talk your LFS into letting you have some of the small rocks and rubble which are on the bottom of their live rock curing tanks.

Lighting

Coralline algae is not a great fan of pure white light and is a total fan of blue light i.e. actinic.

Therefore it is imperative that from the start you provide the aquarium with the correct lighting. One thing which you can do is turn your actinics on and leave them on continuously whilst the aquarium is cycling. As soon as you add more life to the aquarium then you can alter the lighting to a more appropriate lighting cycle.

When the aquarium is running with fish (and corals if it is a reef tank) then ensure that you provide blue lighting to the aquarium. It is best to do this via actinics, however these can also be supplemented by utilising lighting which is around the 14k mark,

Parameters

It is essential to ensure that the [tag-tec]aquarium parameters[/tag-tec] are both optimum and stable. At the very start of the aquariums life it may be higher than normal in some parameters – for example nitrate and phosphate.

You may also notice that in some areas that the levels are lower than normal. A good example of which is calcium. The calcium level does depend upon numerous factors, two of which are the water used and salt used.

To give the coralline algae a boost it would be beneficial to add both strontium and iodine to the aquarium.

Patience

This is one thing which you can’t purchase from your LFS – this one is up to you. As with anything in this hobby good things do not happen overnight.

You will have to have patience.

As long as you keep the parameters both correct and stable then what you should see over time is small areas of coralline algae appearing which will probably be pink in appearance at first but get darker over time.

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Problematic Algae – The Reefkeepers Nightmare.

Algae is a problem for most salt water aquarium keepers at some point in their adventure, the secret with algae is having the knowledge as to why it grows and how to actually prevent it.

Of course not all algae is problematic, for example coralline algae, sometimes known as [tag-tec]red marine algae[/tag-tec] can be quite pleasant to the eye. It is a nice colour, spreads over the rocks giving them a nice appearance – until it starts to grow on the glass, then it can become a nightmare. [Read more]