Painting An Aquarium Stand

When I constructed my aquarium cabinet out of pine great pains were taken for strength and accuracy. An aquarium full of seawater, rocks and sand is very heavy. Improper construction could leave to a very unwanted disaster.

Once the stand has been properly constructed, it could be used in its raw state, but only if the system is in a garage or a hobby room. If the system is anywhere in the house then there is a need to blend it in and make it attractive. The lady of the house will have something to say on the choice of finish usually. My aquarium is in the hall where there is a good deal of medium stain varnish finish, and I matched it in to that. After the initial base coat, four full strength coats were given to the whole surface of the stand, inside and out.

If the stand is to be painted or varnished, the initial action is the same. The wood needs to be sanded down to a very smooth finish, using fine glass paper. Sand ‘down the grain’ using a small wooden sanding block. This block will apply even pressure and avoid pressure marks. This produces quite a lot of dust and before a paint brush is lifted this dust must be removed. If surface decoration is to be pinned or glued to the stand, rub the stand down carefully first, or access will be restricted. Later sanding can be done with the decorative additions in place.

When varnishing, the first coat is better if it is thinned with 10% white spirit. This will allow good wood penetration and adhesion. However, be sure to check the instructions. Make sure an adequate amount of time is allowed for drying, again as in the instructions, before applying a second full strength coat. Before applying full strength varnish coats, check the wood surface for smoothness. Applying varnish can raise the grain of the wood. If necessary, using fine glass paper and with a gentle ‘with the grain’ motion, sand down again. This action should be considered for every coat that is applied. Even the final coat can be smoothed if necessary. However, as it is the final coat, obtain some ’wet and dry’ paper, very fine standard. Have a bowl of water nearby, and, keeping the paper wet, very gently rub down with the grain. Do not use excess pressure or the surface might be marked.

Using paint for the finish is very similar to varnish. Again, the bare wood should be prepared as described already. Then a wood primer should be applied and given adequate time to dry. If necessary, sand down with fine glass paper, as the grain may have been raised. Then apply the first coat of paint. Once dry, check if it is smooth – if not, sand down. Continue applying paint coats until complete, sanding down as necessary between each one. On the final coat, ’wet and dry’ can again be very gently used if required.

For a good finish to be achieved it is best to work in a dust free environment as far as possible, so clear dust up and let things settle well before proceeding with varnish or paint. Make sure a good quality paint brush is used, or the finish may be marred by lost bristles.

Using high gloss varnish or paint will make it more difficult to achieve that ‘perfect’ finish because of imperfection light reflections. Often a semi-gloss – or perhaps even a flat finish – looks better.

For health reasons, the working area should be well ventilated when using varnish or paint.

The final finish can only be as good as the base preparation, with a little assistance from a ’wet’ rub down at the end if needed. So take the time.

When viewing the aquarium, it is the reef and/or fish that are looked at. However, there is much satisfaction – and money to be saved – in constructing a stand and finishing it yourself.

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Tags: aquarium-cabinet, aquarium-stand, Equipment, marine-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium

Should You Use A Metal Aquarium Stand?

Asking a question such as this seems a little strange. Not very technical and a matter of choice surely?

It certainly isn’t very technical and is a matter of choice. Metal aquarium stands were used a lot more in yesteryear, nowadays it is mainly wooden types, usually in cabinet form. Having a wooden one usually fits in better with the home décor, as the finish is available in all sorts, from matt black to light pine. If it is the man of the house who is the aquarist then this will please the lady.

The metal aquarium stand is more of a bare bones affair, comprised of a horizontal base construction for the aquarium to sit on and four or more legs, with additional horizontal braces at the bottom. I assume they can be obtained in silver, black or other colours, in matt or gloss finish. They are strong, but there are dangers and disadvantages in their use.

The danger is in support. If a wooden cabinet is used, the available horizontal support from the floor is normally the full length of the cabinet and the full depth as well. Though the wooden cabinet should be checked for and have full support horizontally, it is more forgiving than metal legs as it will span small irregularities. The metal legs exert a direct pressure on one small area of the floor for each leg. An aquarium full of water and rock/sand is very heavy, therefore this pressure is considerable. If the floor is made of soft wood, such as pine, the pressure could cause a leg or legs to sink a little. Or, if the floor is uneven, one leg or legs may not have full support. Therefore it is important to check that all legs are adequately supported. I have known aquarists in earlier years place a square of metal on the floor for each leg to rest on, thus giving resistance to sinking. Any leg that is still not fully supported needs to be padded out with a suitable material so that it is. Even if the area that the aquarium is in direct contact with has adequate padding (which it should have), this will not compensate for inadequate base support.

Another consideration is that saltwater can corrode metal. As the stand is obviously below the aquarium, pollution from this will not gain access to the aquarium. The metal base is usually well painted and will resist the inevitable drips and water spills, but corrosion could eventually occur.

Usually a metal stand means that a very useful area is missing for the aquarist, and that is the under-tank cabinet. What a useful place this is for storing things such as test kits, food, a notebook and the like. Also a sump can usually be housed in this cabinet, meaning it is out of sight and no thought needs to be given to its decorative value, only to its effectiveness as a filter etc.

So metal aquarium stands are fine, with care. I bet that the vast majority of aquarists go for the wooden variety though. I always have.

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Tags: aquarium-cabinet, aquarium-stand, Equipment, marine-aquarium, saltwater-aquarium