Making Live Rock
August 18, 2009
The major bio-filtration media in use by marine aquarists, whether they keep a reef or fish only system, is probably live rock and for good reason.
Premium live rock is rock that has been fairly recently harvested from around the reefs, meaning it is ‘rubble’ rather than hewed from the reef itself. This rock has growths of all sorts which could be of interest to the aquarist. Unfortunately, live rock needs to be cured after import which simply means that all the dead and dying organisms on and in the rock have to be removed, meaning that pollution will not occur in the aquarium. However, for the most part there are tougher organisms that do survive and they could make an appearance in the aquarium, this appearance could be months after the rock has been introduced. Live rock can also harbor unwelcome organisms, such as the aquarium weed aiptasia, an anemone that could become a real nuisance without controlling attention.
In addition to natural organism introductions with the rock, it is very decorative. Reef and fish only aquarists are able to construct a very interesting and decorative structure which suits livestock very well.
The next great attribute of live rock is mentioned in the first paragraph – bio-filtration. Living organisms in the aquarium will literally be poisoned unless there is some means of negating the toxic substances that they produce. The two major toxins are ammonia and nitrite, and a much less dangerous one is nitrate. Dwelling on and in the live rock are oxygen requiring bacteria which convert the toxin ammonia to the toxin nitrite, which is then converted to nitrate. Bacteria living within the rock also require oxygen but find it hard to obtain, therefore they extract it from the nitrate which breaks the nitrate down releasing the residue from the aquarium as gas. The process from ammonia to gas release is known as the nitrogen cycle.
Live rock is a great commodity for the aquarist, providing the major and essential job of bio-filtration and also doubling up as decoration. The rock must of course be present in sufficient quantity to deal with the bio-load present, which is created mainly by fish.
There’s only one problem and that is cost, it’s expensive, particularly the premium grade. It’s expensive to air freight rock. This cost could be controlled up to a point by using base rock as the lower part of the rock structure and premium grade for the surface – but it is still expensive.
One way of avoiding this cost is to create live rock, which isn’t difficult. What is required is inert porous rock, that is, rock that is known to be free of any substance that could be harmful in seawater and also porous. This type of rock is often available in local fish shops and at a very much lower cost than the live variety. It isn’t any use purchasing solid non-porous rock. The second requirement is that there needs to be as much rock as would be used if the live variety were bought, which should ensure that the amount of bio-filtration media will be adequate.
If necessary the rock is thoroughly rinsed before it is placed in the aquarium to form a structure as required. The aquarium is then filled with seawater (note the net gallonage for future use) at the required specific gravity (SG) and heated to the design temperature. Seawater circulation should also be turned on. At this stage there isn’t any need for lighting. The seawater should be left to settle down to the required parameters. Check the seawater SG once it has heated up as temperature could affect it.
Once the seawater is at the required SG and temperature attention can be given to processing the rock. Anyone who has ever used a canister filter for bio-filtration will be aware of the process. A commercial maturation fluid is obtained and added to the seawater at the amounts given in the instructions. Test kits for ammonia and nitrite are also required, and the seawater should be tested in accordance with the instructions. Eventually the ammonia reading will disappear, followed by the nitrite reading. Once the aquarist is sure the reading remains at zero for both, the rock can be considered to be initially mature, that is, there is an initial population of bacteria to deal with toxins.
A test should now be done for nitrate; a level will probably be clearly seen. This nitrate should be reduced by a seawater change until it is as low as possible or preferably undetectable.
Slow stocking can now commence, turning the lighting system on of course. It is important that ammonia and nitrite tests continue, if there is any indication of either ammonia or nitrite stocking should cease until the reading(s) are zero again and remain so. The bacteria need to adapt to the increasing bio-load and must be allowed the time to do so.
Eventually of course the aquarium will be stocked as required. The bacteria population is able to stabilize and after a further say three months can be considered as fully mature. Routine seawater changes, as with any system, need to continue as does testing.
Wait a minute though; we’re supposed to be creating live rock which should be able within reason to deal with nitrate. So it will, in time. It takes longer for the nitrate reducing bacteria population to establish, and once it has the nitrate should be controlled. Relative to live rock and nitrate what does ‘within reason’ mean? It simply means that if the aquarium is often overfed and the toxin reducing bacteria produce a lot of nitrate, and the aquarist is missing routine seawater changes, the nitrate could be too high for the bacteria to control.
Ok, so now we have an aquarium filtered by live rock. What about the natural growths that could occur (though not always) with natural live rock? These will obviously be absent as the rock was initially dead. With both the fish only and reef system, if the environment is of high quality it shouldn’t be long before encrusting algae’s make an appearance. In a fish only system it could be necessary to seed with a small piece of rock from a friend’s aquarium that already has encrusting algae on it. In a reef system, when the aquarist introduces corals they will usually be attached to pieces of natural rock. These rocks should contain organisms that should seed the other rocks provided a high quality environment is maintained. Before long the previously dead rocks should look completely different – just like natural live rock.
So for a considerably reduced price live rock is achievable. What the aquarist needs to provide is some patience (required by all marine aquarists) and considerably less money. There is great concern about the future of the wild reefs and concern has been expressed about the impact of live rock collection, so the aquarist who produces his/her own will be assisting with reef protection.
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There’s Some Interesting Stuff Out There
May 23, 2009
There certainly is and as far as marine aquarists are concerned it ranges from photographs and videos about the wild reefs, information and discussion on aquarium equipment, to setting up and maintaining a marine aquarium. Amongst all of this is something that is dear to many of us, and that is DIY.
DIY (do it yourself) covers a very wide range of subjects. Within reason, just about anything to do with ordinary mortals has a DIY aspect. For example gardening, home making, photography, boat and aircraft building, home brewing etc. There’s a lot of it.
The marine hobby is also home to a considerable amount of DIY. The cost of equipment, or at any rate some of it, is enough to make those with normal wallets blink a little. ‘How does a plastic whatnot like that get a price tag of that size?’ is not an unknown query!
Aquarists are often good at DIY and aim at projects that measure up to their abilities. Provided the job is done properly with good advice available there is money to be saved, and the equipment works well.
The link is a website that is about DIY. There is quite a range available. Perhaps it could be of use?
The website has a great deal of information in addition to DIY. The list on the left hand side shows this and exploring the site is interesting and informative in many ways relevant to the hobby.
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Acrylic Aquariums – Do It Yourself
March 24, 2009
Aquarists have a choice of aquarium construction material. There’s glass which is probably the most popular, then acrylic. Aquariums can also be constructed from plywood with a suitable lining.
Glass is the material usually targeted when DIY is involved. However, is it possible to use acrylic? The answer is ‘of course, provided there is sufficient information to do it properly.’
So the link given will permit this ‘do it properly’ to be achieved. The link is to an expert website where the subject is understood thoroughly.
Here’s the link:
http://www.sdplastics.com/acrylic.html
(Aquaristsonline.com does not have any contacts, personal or commercial, with the link given)
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A Good Reference For Automatic Calculations
January 8, 2009
At some time or other many or probably all marine aquarists need to work out volume, or how much additive to dose their aquarium with, and such like.
This can be difficult, for example if the aquarium has been filled with live rock and seawater what is the net gallonage of the seawater? The seawater could have been measured as it went in, but this is easily overlooked. The net seawater gallonage is very important as it determines how much additive for example is needed to achieve a given level. If the net seawater gallonage is known, then how much of an additive is needed to raise the present level to a higher level?
In addition to this, what are the equivalent readings between the different measurement standards in use, such as parts per million (ppm), milligrams per litre (mg/l), US gallons, UK gallons, litres, centigrade and Fahrenheit etc? Or the aquarist could want to know how much his/her aquarium weighs with all the rocks, sand and seawater? Maybe a deep sand bed (DSB) is being considered and the amount of sand required is not known.
The link below will connect to a whole series of convertors and calculators for various questions, be they serious or just ‘would like to know’. When the link connects don’t forget to scroll down the page to see them all.
http://www.ultimatereef.net/calculators
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Good Idea Or Am I Getting Lazy?
January 5, 2009
Like many others I am quite keen on efficiency. My free time is precious and though I don’t object in any way to the maintenance of my reef system I don’t want to spend unnecessary time at it.
For example, a good while ago I wondered if I could take the bio-media out of my Eheim canister filters. These canisters have been running since the start of the system over 6 years ago – the rock which makes up the reef wasn’t purchased as live rock but it is live now. Therefore the bio-filtration could be undertaken fully by the rocks and the canisters used for mechanical filtration and surface agitation. I didn’t do it though, having looked at the fish and soft coral reef, at the growth and the colours and how everything does so well, I lost courage. I didn’t want to experiment and cause any problem. Besides, the maintenance on the canisters is not exactly difficult or tiresome; they are only looked at once every four weeks.
Anyway I had this bright idea (only took six years for it to surface!) to automate the evaporation top-up. It’s easy to do, and Tunze for example have a good system. When the seawater level drops a sensor detects it and activates a pump, which in turn moves RO (reverse osmosis) water from a reservoir. When the level is back where it should be the pump stops.
At the moment I do a daily manual top-up which entails filling a pint jug with RO water and putting it into the aquarium until the seawater level reaches a mark on the aquarium glass.
I then started to think a little further – how long does the top-up exercise take each day? So I measured it as near as I could. The answer – about three minutes. Doubt crept in.
Then I considered the feeding regime. The food is normally supplied twice a day, in the morning and evening. It is in the evening when I do the manual top-up, which is immediately followed by feeding. So I’m at the aquarium anyway.
I also realized that when the top-up and feeding have been completed, I usually dally a while looking at the aquarium, sometimes I’ll sit down and admire nature’s marvels for quite a while. This is what the aquarium is about, enjoyment. The auto top-up idea was nearly a dead duck.
I wondered if when I was on holiday an auto top-up would help Peter who usually watches over the aquarium. There wouldn’t be so much for him to do. Then the counter – when I’m away I put on cover glasses and the evaporation reduces considerably anyway, and feeding would still be required.
Then the auto top-up reservoir itself would need to be topped up from time to time.
The idea was now definitely dead.
The aquarium holds a lot of rock and the net gallonage is 45, not a lot of seawater. With a large aquarium auto top-up is a serious consideration, but in my case I decided not.
I now have to wait for my next idea to pop out. Wouldn’t it be good if it was a hobby shaking invention, but I guess it won’t be looking at history!
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Building Your own Calcium Reactor
December 23, 2008
Those aquarists that own a fish only system are not overly concerned with calcium levels as it is mainly the captive reef where the level needs monitoring.
Even an aquarist with a reef aquarium could be able to maintain a sufficient calcium presence by the use of commercially produced additives or even by routine seawater changes. The former options would usually apply to small aquariums and perhaps those containing soft corals only.
The larger aquarium, particularly one that houses SPS (small polyp stony) corals, is more than likely to find that routine seawater changes do not maintain a high enough calcium level. The use of commercial additives will maintain the level but the ongoing cost is likely to be prohibitive. So what’s to be done?
There are ways to automate the provision of calcium, and one of these is the calcium reactor. This works on a simple principle, and that is that if calcium rich media is placed in a chamber where the pH is low (slightly acidic) then the media will dissolve.
In the calcium reactor aquarium seawater is slowly moved through a chamber by a pump. Inside this chamber is the media. Also fed into the chamber is carbon dioxide, which reduces the pH causing the media to slowly dissolve. The seawater is then re-directed to the aquarium carrying with it the additional calcium.
The device needs to be a little more complicated as the carbon dioxide has to be fed into the chamber at a fairly precise rate which requires a control valve. Also, the output from the device, the seawater returning to the aquarium, needs to be controlled. These controls are necessary so that in the first place the media dissolves to a sufficient extent, and secondly so that the aquarist has control over the speed of delivery of the enriched seawater. This allows more precise control over the level of calcium in the aquarium seawater.
The trouble is, a good reliable calcium reactor is not a cheap device. (Is anything I hear someone cry?) If the aquarist is not sure of his/her DIY skills then the device is still worth the price as it saves time and labour with additives, in the long term probably costs less than using additives, and affords a better way of continuously feeding calcium to the aquarium to maintain the selected level.
If the aquarist is reasonably good at DIY, or knows of someone who is and who is willing to undertake projects out of interest, then a home built device is a definite possibility.
The link provided gives good detail on material requirements and procedures with lists, instructions and pictures. There are even suggestions where the materials could be sourced. If DIY is being considered, do not be initially put off by what appears to be fairly complicated – when studied for a while it isn’t.
http://www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/articles/DIYCalciumReactor.htm
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DIY Metal Halide Lighting
November 30, 2008
Do It Yourself (DIY) with a project of any kind is not for everybody. However, there are large numbers of people who do complete various projects successfully, and there is a lot of satisfaction to be had never mind the financial saving. Often the only requirement to start a project is a guide or laid out plan of action.
Marine aquarists have a lot of scope to demonstrate their skills with DIY. For example, some construct their own filters, protein skimmers, lighting hoods and aquarium stands etc. Some make the aquarium itself.
The lighting for a reef aquarium is very important for the health of the corals. Failure to provide proper lighting, both intensity and spectrum, is the road to failure. Different coral groups require different intensities of light. Where the aquarist requires intense light then metal halide systems are often chosen.
The aquarist could consider DIY for the metal halide system. There isn’t a requirement to be a qualified tradesman, just a need for a basic capability and the care to complete the job. With electrical items of course the aquarist needs to be aware that electricity and misuse are dangerous. Having said that, there isn’t any reason why a DIY project cannot be completed in this area also. However, if there is doubt, don’t attempt it. If the job is in progress and there is doubt, obtain qualified advice.
As already said, all the DIY aquarist really needs is the guideline and advice to follow. So below is a link which provides that. Using a search engine on the internet will no doubt find more sources.
There is another way for a DIY project to commence, though this one is even easier because the parts don’t have to be searched for. This method is called ‘retrofit’ and there are kits available that provide all the parts and the instructions for construction. They are very straightforward.
Before the aquarist starts it is necessary to research the intensity of lighting that is required, that is the power (watts shown by a ‘W’) of the bulb(s). This intensity depends on the type of corals to be kept and also the depth of the aquarium. This applies whether the lighting is a DIY project, a ‘retrofit’ kit, or ‘off the shelf.’
http://www.personal.psu.edu/sbj4/aquarium/mh/mhlighting.html
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