Why Should Alkalinity Be Higher In The Aquarium?
June 28, 2009
The marine aquarium can be so beautiful if the aquarist does straightforward routine maintenance as required, and doing this maintenance includes attention to the all important seawater quality.
Seawater quality is maintained by routine changes of sufficient quantity, and at the same time tests are completed to ensure that the required standards are met. These tests include specific gravity (SG), pH, nitrate and for a reef could include calcium and similar. Some aquarists continue to test for ammonia and nitrite after the initial maturing process. Alkalinity is a test that is useful to marine systems too.
It would seem fair to think that Mother Nature would know best in these matters and the alkalinity level in the wild is 7 to 9 KH*. So perhaps we should keep out aquarium seawater at the same level.
We could maintain a natural level and hopefully all things being equal there wouldn’t be any problems. However, we are not talking of the vastness of the seas and oceans where seawater quantity is measured in cubic miles; we are talking about aquariums where even a large home system of 500 gallons is, by comparison, very tiny.
Most aquariums are fully stocked whatever system they are. The life in the aquarium puts pressure on the seawater in several ways and one of them is the acid/alkalinity balance. We know this measure as it uses the pH scale, and we want a pH of between 8.0 and 8.4 which is on the alkaline side. The life functions in the aquarium constantly try to reduce this pH towards the acid side, something we do not want.
Prevention of the reduction in pH is achieved by the ‘buffering’ capacity of the seawater, in other words its ability to resist changes caused by acidic substances. The ‘buffer’ is mainly the carbonate/bicarbonate content of the seawater. In certain circumstances the buffer could be seriously weakened or even exhaust and the pH would fall which is detrimental to the livestock.
Dry seawater salt as purchased by most aquarists for seawater make-up has a buffering capacity usually around natural levels. However, many aquarists boost the buffering capacity of their seawater by adding carbonate/bicarbonate powders. These powders are usually mixed in some seawater before being added to the aquarium, being careful not to hit corals etc. The powders are sold commercially and are very easy to use.
In an aquarium it is considered best to maintain alkalinity from 8 to 14 KH.* It is not recommended to raise the level above 14 KH.* The recommended level of 8 to 14 KH does not mean the level can vary within these limits, it should be reasonably stable at the chosen point, ‘reasonably’ meaning that some variation over say a week will not usually be harmful. My system runs at 10 KH and needs boosting to an extent weekly.
If the aquarist measures the alkalinity of a fully stocked system on a weekly basis and keeps a note, then the trend of the aquarium can be seen. The amount of buffer that needs to be added is easily prepared week to week. Testing can be reduced once this requirement has been discovered but should not be abandoned.
If pH is a problem and it is falling despite routine seawater changes and good husbandry in feeding etc, then perhaps the buffer capacity needs attention. Increasing the buffer by 1 KH week to week will not do harm. I have found a good alkalinity level is also beneficial to the growth of welcome encrusting algae which can beautify the aquarium.
By the way, if the desire is to measure alkalinity by mg/l, then multiply KH by 17.9.
(*Reference: Marine Atlas. Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch)
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A Worrying Failure
June 23, 2009
Marine aquarists make use of varying types of equipment on their fish only or reef aquariums. This equipment is generally reliable nowadays but nevertheless any device has the potential to fail.
There are many canister filters in use for either mechanical or bio-filtration. Though live rock is the bio-filtration of choice for the modern aquarium, canisters are still in use by many for this essential task. There isn’t any reason why they shouldn’t be, though there are drawbacks.
Live rock is able, within reason, to deal with nitrate. In other words live rock should perform the full nitrogen cycle. This is the major drawback with canister filters, nitrate is the end product. This is because the bio-media within the canister is oxygen rich and there isn’t any need for oxygen to be obtained elsewhere. Nitrate reducing bacteria require an environment very low in oxygen which forces them to seek an oxygen supply elsewhere; nitrate is present so oxygen is taken from that which breaks the nitrate down. It follows that an aquarist using a canister filter needs to keep a closer eye on nitrate levels and carry out the requisite correctly sized seawater changes.
Another advantage of live rock is that there isn’t anything to break down, as opposed to a canister filter where there is an electric pump. As already said modern canisters are reliable though recommended models should be sought when purchasing, but what if a breakdown does occur?
Failure of the electric motor means that the whole function of the canister ceases as seawater flow stops completely. When an aquarist does routine maintenance the output from various devices is checked, an operation that takes hardly any time. However, it is more likely than not that a failure will occur at an inconvenient moment. Canister electrics are usually very quiet nowadays and there isn’t any indication of trouble apart from seawater output ceasing. So the first thing is to note the output anytime possible, such as at feeding time and when starting to simply observe and admire the aquarium. It only takes seconds.
A stopped canister filter should be switched off and then on again a couple of times, this sometimes frees up the motor. Don’t count on it though! If the motor does re-start then as soon as possible check the shaft and impellor for debris. However, before attempting to re-start by switching off and on note the comments in the following paragraphs.
Once the output from the canister is noted to have stopped there isn’t any way of knowing when it stopped. This is a worry because involved is the life support for the system, the bacteria. How are they faring?
It could be that the fish have been acting strangely and that is how the lack of seawater output was noticed. If this is the case then the failure occurred quite some time ago as there has been time for toxics to build up in the seawater. The first action is a seawater change, the size of which depends on the severity of the situation. If the fish are really obviously in trouble then 25% is not excessive, more if necessary, and the change should be done as soon as possible. The aquarist should be prepared to carry out a further change if necessary.
The aquarist should ensure that other equipment, namely the protein skimmer and seawater circulators, are working at maximum efficiency to ensure maximum oxygen intake and minimum bio loading (the skimmer should remove substances reducing the load on the bio-filter).
A regime of seawater testing should be introduced. Once the situation is under control the tests can be done once daily, but it is often better and more reassuring for the aquarist to do tests morning and evening. The tests are of course ammonia and nitrite. The only ongoing acceptable test result is ‘nil’ or perhaps more accurately ‘undetectable’.
If it is found that the canister filter electric motor has failed but the fish are not showing symptoms of distress then the failure is probably quite recent. Again, test the seawater and do a change if necessary.
In both cases, fish distressed or not, cease feeding until an effective bio-filter is back in operation.
The speed that toxics develop in the seawater depends to a large extent on the fish numbers present. Corals present a far lower bio-load.
As soon as possible deal with the canister filter. At this point it is known that switching it on and off didn’t work! Ensure it is switched off and disconnect from the tubing. Check the impellor and shaft, there could have been a failure, if jammed the problem can usually be sorted out. If there is a breakage spares are usually available, obtain them by the fastest possible means even if it incurs extra cost. (Obtain the spares from the local fish shop if possible to avoid any delay.) Check that the input and output tubing is not blocked, this could occur over time.
If the electric motor itself has failed then a new canister filter should be obtained (or better two, see below). When the replacement device is available bio-media can be transferred and if required extra added. Until the new device arrives the bio-media already held should be kept within the aquarium seawater preferably in a high flow area so that at least some of the bacteria are retained. When the new canister is running there is a clear need for monitoring the seawater condition, as it will be similar to though not as extensive as maturing again. Seawater quality can be maintained by additional seawater changes, new seawater should be available at all times until the aquarist is sure all is well.
If the canister has been off for a long time do not re-start it and allow it to continue running. Disconnect and drain the internal seawater out completely. Refill and then start and run. This is because there is a danger that the seawater within the canister could be heavily contaminated. If the canister is likely to have been off for only a short period, just re-start. It is worthwhile carrying out daily seawater tests for a week in either case to ensure the bio-filter is effective. After re-start, feeding should be with considerable caution as the bio-filtration may well be weakened and need to re-build. Again, ensure that the protein skimmer and seawater circulation pumps are at maximum efficiency.
To largely avoid a problem such as described, unlikely as it usually is, when the system is designed it is a good idea to employ two canister filters. This will of course mean a little more cost, but the filters can be smaller. Instead of obtaining one which can handle the net gallonage of the system, obtain two. These together in total should handle the net gallonage, but it is a good idea to have both of them a little oversized. They can be routinely serviced alternatively so there isn’t any extra work generated. If the need for canister bio-filtration is removed in the future they are useful for mechanical or other types of filtration.
It is generally unlikely that a modern canister filter will fail, particularly if it is adequately routinely serviced. If it does fail the shaft/impellor could be affected by accumulated debris and/or calcareous buildup, or tube blockages could be present. Observation is the main preventative.
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It’s A Sunny Life
June 20, 2009
We marine aquarists are lucky in more than one way, and a part of this luck is that our aquariums are always sunny, no matter what Mother Nature has to say about it, wherever the aquarist may live.
Day in, day out on comes the lighting system and, surprise, the sun is shining and does so all the time until dusk when the actinics are on alone. Ok, there are some who have very advanced lighting systems (Led’s) which can simulate cloud cover but for most of us it’s a permanent clear sky.
Of course there are those aquarists who live permanently in a naturally sunny climate. There they are with a coral reef to dive on but then human nature being what it is they are not always completely happy.
A few years ago - cripes, as long as that! - my wife and I were in Barbados for a holiday and were in the process of hiring a car for sightseeing purposes. The garage proprietor was a friendly chatty type and the talk came round to reefs, I was asking which would be the best area for snorkeling. It turned out that he was a marine aquarist. How very widespread this hobby is! Sadly I never got to see his aquarium but he advised he obtained his fish (and corals?) from the reef. I mentioned I was surprised as he had a huge natural ‘aquarium’ to swim in, but he said it was wonderful to see the fish within his home.
When talking it turned out that what he really, really would like was a holiday such as we were having, two weeks or so away. ‘What - and you live in such a lovely sunny place’ was my response. He said he would love to take his family to England. England, very beautiful but well known for its cloudy days and rain.
It just goes to show that perspective depends on many things, one of them at least being what you haven’t got. So my ‘aquarists are lucky’ is probably down to the fact that there aren’t any coral reefs near me and the sun doesn’t always shine.
My soft coral reef continues to do really well. I do the required routine maintenance and spend time admiring the aquarium picture. I still have wars with those xxxxxx aiptasia anemones and have to admit that this is one area where I have not been successful, having failed to eliminate them. However, eliminating these aquatic weeds in a reef aquarium is just about impossible as there are so many nooks and crannies. I attack them periodically when they are small, the reason for doing it when they are small is that I understand (from reports on the internet) that aiptasia anemones are able to release ‘emergency spores’ when they are facing oblivion, as apparently they recognize they are under lethal attack. I don’t know if these reports are correct and scientifically supported. Anyway, if correct I assume small means a lower spore count. Periodic attacks also keep them well under control and prevents them spreading.
Now summer is well and truly with us I’ve tested my 12 inch electric fan, if temperatures raise unduly it will be used for cooling.
Talking about cooling, I’m sure there are a couple of beers in the ‘fridge….
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The Long One
June 7, 2009
Like the majority of aquarists I have a schedule for maintaining my aquarium. With the commitments I have and the time available I’ve found that this schedule saves time - usually.
Saving time doesn’t always occur, sometimes, and it is infrequent, something occurs which takes up a lot more time. Not today though, all went well mainly.
My schedule depends on a number. Number one is clean the glass. Wow, that’s it! Number two is the same as one plus the intake filters on some powerheads, plus a routine seawater change. Number three is the same as one. Number four is a comprehensive clean. Included with all of these numbers is a check for any unwanted organisms such as Aiptasia. So as can be seen maintenance covers a four week cycle.
Maintenance is nearly always done on a Sunday as there is time available, in the morning anyway. It all sounds a bit military maybe, but it works.
The number for today is four, the long one. New seawater ready and waiting, cleaning equipment near the aquarium. The aquarium is surrounded by carpet, so polythene covers are in place. They catch the drips and minor splashes very well.
The very first thing is to clean, with a hard toothbrush, my miniscule algae scrubber. This developed by itself and is obviously doing something as it exists! There must be some level of nutrients in the seawater feeding it. The photo shows it - I did say it is tiny, about 3 inches across and 2 inches deep! The seawater flow is from the hang-on skimmer.
Next the bracing struts and viewing glasses are cleaned with an algae magnet. Only the front and one end viewing glass are done, encrusting algae is permitted to grow on the others.
Exciting stuff this isn’t it! Now the four powerheads which sit in a small compartment are checked. The powerheads driving the under-reef spray bar and anti-phosphate filter have sponge intake filters and these need thorough attention. The anti-phosphate filter is shown in the photo; it is a homemade hang-on type. (Taking the photo was difficult, it is under an open stairway and space is restricted.) The other is an anti-nitrate filter, again homemade but this isn’t in use.
This maintenance is progressing well. The Eheim canister filter is next, the mechanical media has to be checked. This is comprised of fine and medium sponges and it can be surprising how much they catch from what appears to be clean seawater. I have to save numerous very small shrimps as well; these are placed in the display aquarium ensuring the fish don’t get them. There are numbers on the filters - this is from when they were both used for biological purposes so that they could be selected for cleaning, this doesn’t apply now as the biological media has been removed.
Getting there now and it is usually at this point that a cup of coffee appears. Thanks!
Siphoning is next on the agenda but before the main siphon tube is used, I attack any unwanted organisms. Today I located a few Aiptasia and these were dealt with. I’ll have to deal with more as time passes; they are never eliminated, probably because there are so many nooks and crannies in a reef aquarium. As long as they are not left to their own devices for too long they aren’t a problem.
So out come gallons of seawater with the siphon tube, this seawater will be dumped. (I used to use it for brine shrimp production but no longer do so.) At this time any debris spotted on the base of the aquarium is removed. There isn’t much base to be seen but it is checked anyway.
The new seawater is placed on the stairs above the aquarium and my wife kindly makes sure the tube doesn’t come out (not the siphon tube, one that is considerably longer). In goes the seawater.
Not quite done. I manually add certain additives to the seawater, these being calcium, bicarbonate and carbonate powder (for alkalinity) and iodine. Calcium is maintained at around 420ppm and alkalinity at around 4.0meq/L. I don’t measure the iodine level as it is only added once every two weeks at the minimum dose, there has never been a problem.
Nearly time to pack up now, just give the glass bracing struts a clean with a paper towel, likewise the viewing glasses. A check with the hydrometer is required, this is fine at 1024.
Final job - give the fluorescent tubes a wipe. Now it’s all done.
No, not quite. The two fish get some brine shrimp for being so patient!
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A Question About Algae
May 31, 2009
Algae could be the aquarist’s friend and at the same time an enemy, it all depends on what type it is. A question arose recently about algae and my immediate reaction was ‘Oh no, not again, algae!’’ In fact it wasn’t so bad.
The question came from a beginner aquarist who openly admitted that she didn’t have much experience. In fact, she had done precisely four routine seawater changes with her new aquarium. The aquarium, a fish only, was not overstocked, if anything it was understocked. She was a little fed up; the excitement of actually seeing some life in the aquarium after all the patient waiting when the system was being put together was being spoilt by the dreaded algae. I was unable to see the aquarium.
Basically she had done seawater changes and after each one she advised ‘red’ algae had gone bananas. That’s what she said; I don’t think it could have been quite as bad as that!
Many aquarists have problems with various types of algae, particularly when inexperienced and when the aquarium is in its early days. I was surprised that it was red algae causing the trouble. Usually it is green hair algae, or so-called slime algae or smear algae (a thin sheet that slowly covers rocks, sand etc). Slime algae can be ‘reddish’, very dark and appear red nearly black. Another type is diatoms that are usually more golden brown in colour.
Red algae can be calcareous and branching or encrusting, or have flexible ‘leaves’. These algae types are often sort after by aquarists as they are decorative. In the red algae family there are over 4000 types. The algae though had been identified as a problem and not decorative so it cleared these types away. So the algae in question had to be a problem type, but what? Green hair algae was obviously not the answer.
When an aquarium is first started up diatoms often appear. They could cover rocks, sand etc. The diatoms rely on silicates in the seawater - if the silicates go so do the diatoms. If they appear then die back, the silicates are used up. If they then re-appear at a routine seawater change, then more silicates have been introduced. The fresh water source could be suspect. Dry sea salt does not usually cause this type of problem.
Smear or slime algae is a bigger problem. It can be quite difficult to erase but this can be achieved. The presence of smear algae suggests excess nutrients in the seawater, even in a new aquarium. Also smear algae does not like strong currents - it often tends to appear in quiet areas of the aquarium, though just to be helpful it can appear in more turbulent areas.
10% of the net system gallonage is the guideline amount for routine seawater changes, until the actual needs of a particular aquarium are known. The changes being done were of this amount.
Possibilities would have to be narrowed down, so the first suggestion was that seawater tests should be done, that is, nitrate and phosphate. A request was made to test both the seawater in the aquarium and the new seawater made up for a routine change. Ideally, in the aquarium nitrate should be as low as 10ppm (parts per million) or less particularly for a reef aquarium, a fish only could be higher but should still have nitrate minimized. Phosphate should not be detected at all hopefully, but at least the level should not be more than 0.03ppm. If it is higher, say 0.10ppm, it is too high. In newly made up seawater there shouldn’t really be any presence of nitrate or phosphate. Nitrate and phosphate are known problem algae nutrients, thus the need for control.
It turned out that nitrate and phosphate were present and ‘a little too high’, levels were not given. The seawater destined for the routine change was also tested - the same for nitrate. Now then!
So on to the next possibility. This follows the clues given - the algae become more apparent after a routine seawater change and nitrate was present in the new seawater. A check was suggested of the freshwater being used.
The information arrived that the nitrate level in the freshwater was ‘high’. Maybe this was tap water, the most likely, or it could be local spring or well water, I don’t know. Nor was the actual level given. However, ‘high’ in this instance meant ‘too much’ and this seemed to be the problem that needed to be dealt with.
Tap water is not necessarily as pure as might be thought. In agricultural areas there could be excessive nitrate levels. There could also be heavy metals, pesticides, phosphate, chlorine, chloramines and so on. The water is made safe for human consumption; there are regulations as to how much of what is permitted.
The suggestion was made that fresh water should no longer be used from that source, and that a reverse osmosis (RO) unit should be obtained. The RO unit is a membrane that only permits pure water to pass, or nearly so. The purity is usually about 95 to 98%. It is important to have a unit that incorporates a carbon filter at the front end; this protects the membrane as chlorine is removed. Chlorine could damage the membrane. A sediment filter is often incorporated before the membrane as well. RO units come in various ‘gallons per day’ sizes, one needs to be picked that is suitable for the size of the routine seawater change. RO units are very reliable and only require the carbon filter etc changing from time to time in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions. They are not particularly expensive either.
It is worth using high quality fresh water obviously for the welfare of the livestock; also dry sea salt is not cheap. Dry sea salt manufacturers produce salt that is free of nitrate and phosphate - why spoil this with poor fresh water?
Much later on it was learned that an RO unit was in use and though nothing had happened for a while, in time the algae (‘slime’ I assume) started to reduce and the aquarium became clear of it.
This seems a good demonstration that the aquarium will reflect what it receives. Feed in algae nutrients and algae could appear. In this case all turned out well.
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Sump Or Refugium?
May 26, 2009
All aquarists know the difference between a reef, mixed reef and fish only aquarium. However, confusion arises on occasion about the sump and refugium.
There are many systems of whatever type that include a sump. Usually they are put there in the design stage and this is really the easiest option, as feeding seawater to and from the sump is more easily arranged.
The sump is defined by the Oxford dictionary as ‘…a pit for collecting water etc’. That’s fairly accurate I suppose in relation to marine systems, one of the attributes of a sump is that it increases the net seawater gallonage of the system which is good for quality. In addition to this it permits items of hardware such as protein skimmers and heaters to be placed out of sight, which is good for the main display.
This is where the confusion starts. In addition to equipment, a sump could also be used for a deep sand bed (DSB) and could also grow macro algae. Then an addition could be made by using a partition and installing a ‘refugium’. The aquarist declares that he has a refugium.
I don’t want to be over-finicky, but is this correct? It is understandable certainly, as a refugium is a place where small life forms can live away from the predations of fish etc. Over and over it is said that small life forms are essential for the health of the DSB. There aren’t any fish in the sump so the small life forms are protected, so maybe it has become a refugium!
In the dictionary version I have ‘refugium’ is not given but no matter, let’s look at ‘refuge’. The definition of this is ‘…shelter from danger, pursuit or trouble.’ So the refugium is a specific not a general item.
Back to the sump then, as said it is primarily added to the system to increase net seawater gallonage and provide an area where heaters etc can go. If the aquarist wishes to add a DSB then fine and the same goes for macro algae. This makes the sump …a sump. It has been added for specific purposes, not one particular purpose.
A refugium is an additional aquarium or container that has been added to the system in the same way as a sump. However, in this case it is intended primarily as a refugium, nothing else. A fish only aquarium is an environment for fish, a mixed reef an environment for fish and corals. The refugium is an environment designed for small life forms. It keeps them safe from predation by fish and permits them to develop and flourish. At the same time, of course, it also increases the net seawater gallonage of the system.
So if the system is to include a sump and a refugium, there should be three aquariums. The largest one will be the display aquarium of whatever type, and attached to this and fed seawater by it will be a sump and a refugium. The major advantage of the two, apart from increased seawater gallonage, is space. There is more space for equipment in the sump if it is not being used for so many purposes, and there is more space in the refugium for the creation of the special environment.
Overall though, it could be argued that the above is a terrific example of nit picking! Truth of the matter is, the sump doesn’t have strict boundaries and could be and often is used for a DSB and macro algae, with lots of tiny life forms. These life forms are protected from fish predation so it is a refuge. The specific refugium is different because it is only that, a refuge, nothing else. The refugium, as it is for one purpose only, may well offer greater space for the created environment, which in turn permits more life to develop, which could mean a higher amount of live food (that which finds its way into the main display aquarium).
I would love to have a three tank system but haven’t the space. Those who have the space, great! Those aquarists who use a sump only, no problem, let’s not argue about a name.
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How Gallonage Matters
May 10, 2009
No matter how big or small an aquarium is they all have a gallonage which is often stated in the manufacturer’s documents. Some aquariums are of a standard size and are known as a ‘fifty’ or whatever.
The gallonage quoted in the aquarium name or manufacturer’s documents is with it empty, it has to be this way as of course the manufacturer has no idea of what use the aquarium will be put to and what will be inside it.
As far as the marine hobby is concerned, the quoted gross gallonage can be ignored, it is irrelevant. What is of interest is the net gallonage, the amount of seawater the aquarium can hold once all the decorative whatnots are installed. In the case of both a fish only and reef aquarium, whether live or inert rock is being used doesn’t matter; it is the amount that is installed that does. In the first place, if live rock is being used there must be enough to provide adequate bio-filtration for the full bio load. Secondly, the more there is of either rock type the less the seawater gallonage will be.
If the aquarist decides to use a DSB (deep sand bed) or plenum then this will again reduce the seawater gallonage. A decorative sand bed is not as deep but still accounts for lost seawater space.
So it is important that the aquarist is aware of the net gallonage of the aquarium. Having a sump has advantages and one of these is that the net gallonage is increased.
Calculating the net gallonage could be a hit and miss affair. Probably the most accurate way is for the aquarist to measure the prepared seawater as it goes into the aquarium on the first fill. However, many aquarists mix the initial seawater in the aquarium, but nevertheless a note could be made of the amount that goes in. If any of this first fill is eventually removed because of overfill it needs to be deducted of course. There are helpful gallonage calculators on some marine forums for those who did not measure the ingoing seawater, though accuracy will be lower.
Both the reef and fish only aquarium rely on net gallonage for stocking levels. This is for fish; corals present a much lower bio load. The reef aquarium carries less fish than a fish only system which gives regard to necessary seawater quality. With both systems seawater quality is the number one requirement - how can the aquarist stock correctly if the net gallonage is not known?
When calculating stocking levels for whatever system, the sump seawater should be ignored. The seawater in the sump is not available to the fish and should be viewed as a quality enhancement advantage.
Stocking to the gross gallonage of the display aquarium, or to an overestimated net gallonage could lead to trouble. The aquarium could be and is likely to be overstocked. If there are too many fish there is greater pressure on the seawater quality. In addition it creates more work for the bio-filtration. Further, if there was a temperature increase there could be oxygen problems. The fish obviously require sufficient oxygen, and so does the bio-filter, or rather all the oxygen hungry bacteria in it. If there are problems with the bio-filtration then real trouble could begin.
Also, overstocking can mean overcrowding. Fish will argue and even fight over the right to territory, some more than others. This could lead to fish not eating properly because of stress. On the wild reef fish have plenty of hiding places and in addition if they need to retreat there is plenty of space to do so. Within the strict confines of an aquarium where does a fleeing fish go?
So it is certainly to the advantage of the aquarist and his/her future enjoyment of the hobby to go through a careful initial procedure. This includes research into compatibility with tank mates and aquarium type of course, but should also consider the space that is going to be available. During reef or aquascape construction the aquarist should give full regard to supplying sufficient homes for the number of fish it is intended to keep, many commonly used rocks are helpful with this because they are of very irregular shapes. It will pay off as fish that are settled and secure will be healthy and show the colours that nature intended.
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