Bio-Media Removed

When I first started my current reef aquarium over six years ago I didn’t use any live rock. Instead, for the bio-filtration I used canister filters.

There are two Eheim Ecco canister filters installed and I have to say that they are good, well constructed and to date absolutely reliable. Anyway that’s not what I’m on about here.

Over the six years many corals on rocks have been introduced and the rock that was inert and dead is now live. It hasn’t the potential diversity of life that natural live rock has, but it has a lot of organisms on it and probably in it – there are tiny tube worms by the hundred and a high population of tiny creatures that appear mostly at night. It is also typical live rock in appearance as far as encrusting algae and the like are concerned. I have to say I can’t see that much rock anyway as most is covered up by some organism or another.

I suspected that the rock was live because of nitrate. As I had elected to use canister filters a home made denitrator had been fitted as well. There has only ever been the tiniest presence of nitrate according to the tests and it was so faint my wife and I were unsure about that. Eventually this trace disappeared as well and never re-appeared. So about two years after the trace, if there was one, had disappeared I turned the denitrator off. There continued to be no trace whatsoever of nitrate and the denitrator has remained off.

If there was nitrate present and it had disappeared then routine seawater changes wouldn’t have been the cause as these have been done bi-weekly ever since the aquarium started (though at first they were weekly). It wasn’t the denitrator as this was turned off and nothing re-appeared. I assumed that bacteria had colonized the very porous reef rocks and these were dealing with any nitrate, as well as ammonia and nitrite. I decided to remove the bio media from one of the canisters. It didn’t happen.

The canisters, both of them, were left running in full bio-mode as I didn’t do anything because of the reef, it was so successful and natural looking that I was afraid that if I made a mistake the livestock would suffer and I wouldn’t have time to generate a new bacteria population. After a while, I thought that this was ridiculous – and it was as there are two canisters and they both have the capacity to bio-filter the aquarium. So I removed the media from one, then started it up again empty as it is used for surface agitation.

To date, six months down the line, there hasn’t been a problem. So now I’m thinking I’ll remove the bio-media from the other canister. Going on previous performance it’ll be a while before anything is done! I feel certain that there isn’t a need for bio-filtration with the canisters any more.

When I removed the bio-media I expected that there would be visible life within it (Eheim sintered glass). There wasn’t, none at all, at least any I noticed. The aquarium is full of life, mobile and otherwise, so this was a surprise. On cleaning mechanical media I am always rescuing tiny shrimps.

I was really pleased with the state of the bio-media. When washed only a very small dusting of dirt appeared, one rinse and it was gone. This was down to the four weekly mechanical media cleaning, also the mechanical media set-up. The entire mechanical media was before the bio-media, taking the form of a coarse sponge, a very fine filter ‘cloth’ one half inch thick and another fine sponge, so the filter ‘cloth’ was sandwiched tightly between the sponges. It clearly worked.

During the operation on the canister I noticed a fair growth of some toadstools in one area on the reef. All the corals grow at a quite fast rate and the toadstools are the fastest. So out came the sharp scissors and off came their heads. Very drastic sounding but it has been done several times before without mishap. They grow back rapidly.

I also noticed more new corals growing beneath, toadstools again, six in all. Four were removed entirely and two left. The photo (sorry, it isn’t particularly good) shows the cut ‘stalks’ and also the two small new ones that were left.

The cut corals look awful at first but they don’t stay that way for long. First polyps re-grow, then the heads start to increase horizontally and the stalks lengthen.

It’s all quite miraculous really.

---

Live Rock A ‘Different’ Way

Live rock is quite rightly highly rated by marine aquarists, particularly by those with a reef, for both its filtration capabilities and its appearance. It is natural, what could be better than that? Well, nothing really, but nevertheless there are drawbacks in its use.

The first negative is that it is expensive and it’s bound to be with the cost of air freight never mind transport to the final destination in the US or Europe. This cost is generated by both weight and bulk.  Nevertheless, aquarists buy it and can reduce their costs by using base rock underneath the reef which is less expensive. Another way is to reduce the amount required by putting face rock on a framework of plastic supports which means less is required, though care has to be taken that there is still an adequate amount for effective bio-filtration.

Some enterprising aquarists manufacture their own live rock though the numbers who do this are low and the result is not usually as good looking as the real stuff (in my opinion).

Other aquarists use dead inert rock as a reef and employ canister filters for the bio-filtration. This is what I did with my current reef. The bio-media is being removed from the canisters as the rocks are now live.

The last paragraph leads me into the reason for this text. My aquarium (over six years old) is now using rocks as its main bio-filtration, as said the rocks were previously ‘dead’. After setting up the aquarium, before the canisters could be used they had to be ‘matured’, that is a bacterial culture had to be started within them. It could have been done another way – I could probably have used maturation fluid to establish a bacteria colony on the rocks in the first place, they are very porous. The rocks when used initially were not very ‘reefy’ looking though they are now.

If only there were rocks that were both porous and ‘reefy’ in appearance many aquarists would be pleased. Well, it seems there are now.

Artificial ceramic reef ‘rocks’ were brought to my attention by a comment on the forum, they are named Vida Rocks. So of course, never having heard of them, I went onto the internet and had a look. I have to say that the appearance of the rocks seems good, they are natural looking taking the shape of ordinary rocks, arches etc. An aquarist would be able to create a good looking aquascape with them.

The rocks are stated to be highly porous. This means that they should present a suitable habitat for those bacteria that protect our livestock. The bacteria culture would have to be kick started in the same way that a canister filter is by the use of maturation fluid, but this is not a problem. With this method nitrate will probably appear in the aquarium but this is easily reduced by a seawater change. As the ceramic article is porous the possibility, or maybe probability, arises that nitrate could be dealt with as with natural live rock. Bacteria could establish inside the rock in low oxygen areas. It would be great if this occurred.

So we have a system that will present an ‘authentic’ reef appearance and provide adequate bio-filtration. Over time the rocks will become more natural looking as organisms take over the surface areas. These organisms could be introduced on rocks with corals attached.

There must be disadvantages though, and there are. The ceramic rock is not loaded with bacteria by Mother Nature as the natural stuff is. Also, the life forms that could appear in the aquarium when using natural live rocks are not there. The life that could appear with natural rocks is a gift, and there is often quite a lot of it even after the transport time and ‘curing’ process. However, natural live rock could also bring undesirables such as aiptasia (glass anemones) etc which will obviously not occur with the ceramic type. Undesirables could appear in the course of time anyway as coral rocks will be introduced to a reef system and so the threat remains.

I am all for the move to ‘natural’ based aquarium husbandry as are most aquarists and this hasn’t changed. Live rock and deep sand beds (DSB’s) are a good example. This ceramic rock has aroused my interest. If the ceramic rock has been ‘matured’ with bacteria and is combined with a DSB it would amount to very nearly the same thing, with a difference.

The difference is that live rock for the most part is taken from the wild reef areas. By using the manufactured rock the demand on the wild resources would be reduced which generally would be good. Local fish shops (LFS’s) would probably state that it would affect their trade, so they could sell the ceramic variety. They could even sell more of it as it would no doubt be cheaper particularly as it does not have to be air freighted, at least in the US where it is manufactured (I do not know the price).

For an aquarist who is considering extending their reef (or fish only aquascape) this ceramic rock could be considered. It will need a little time to mature (bacteria) so if increased stocking is envisaged care would be needed.

For an aquarist who is just setting up a marine system it is a consideration as a particular aquascape design can more or less be achieved. The normal constraints on stocking after maturation would apply, as with a canister filter. Unlike a canister filter, hopefully the industrious bacteria within the ceramic rock would within reason have an effect on nitrate levels.

Have a look and see what you think:

http://www.cerameco.com

I look forward to comments by aquarists who use it.

(Aquaristsonline.com does not have any links, personal or commercial, with the above internet site)

---

How Long Should You Leave Refugium Lights On For

Refugiums are becoming more and more popular nowadays as people are starting to realise the beneift that they can have upon the aquarium.

Refugiums, as the name states are a refuge for animals to live without fear of predation. It is also an area where macro algae can be grown to assist in the removal of nutrients from the water.

In a normal refugium macro algae is grown to assist in the removal of nitrate and phosphate. In the refugium may also be a scattering of sand, a deep sand bed or even a mud bed.

Macro algae normally will only remove nutrients when it is actively growing and for this to happen it requires a light source.

The best light source to use is lighting which is correct for the growth of plants – this is normally in the lower end of the kelvin scale.

In the display aquarium the lights are left on for between 8 and 12 hours however how long should the lights be left on above the refugium?

There are two answers to this question:

1. The lights are left on for a 24 hour period. With this method the algae is allowed to grow continuously and therefore remove more nutrients from the water column.
2. The lights are lit in what is termed reverse light cycle. What this means is that the lights above the refugium come on when the display aquarium lighting goes off and turn off when the display aquarium lighting comes on.

So what do I recommend and why?

Both options are valid options however I would recommend option 2.

The reason for this is that I like to follow nature. In nature the grass beds are not subject to lighting over a 24 hour period – the receive light when the sun is out!

I also believe that the algae needs a ‘rest’. It requires a lot of energy for the algae to grow and if it grows continuously then problems may occur. This is not something that has been scientifically proven but is something that I believe could happen. It also needs to be remembered that in the refugium other organisms also exist. There will be various types of organisms which, like most life would prefer a period of darkness. I read somewhere, unfortunately I cannot remember where, that in a refugium which was provided with darkness the population of organisms grew however if the lights were on continuously the population did not grow as fast.

There is another area which is important and both of the above methods provide this – pH stability. When the lights go out above the display aquarium there is normally a slight pH drop throughout the hours of darkness. If the refugium is lit throughout these hours of darkness then the pH drop may be countered. As with anything in this hobby stability is key and this is just another area where this stability can be maintained.

So in my opinion the refugium can be lit of a 24 hour period or it can be lit on a reverse cycle however if I was to choose then I would choose reverse cycle for the reasons listed above.

---

The Location For A Deep Sand Bed

The deep sand bed (DSB) is a popular filtration addition used by many aquarists. Also, interest is added to the aquarium – the DSB over the course of time should develop its own population of life.

Using live rock for bio-filtration is popular nowadays. Linking the live rock with a DSB gives a really good filtration base and the overall environment of the aquarium should be improved.

The question is, where should the DSB be placed? The first and obvious choice is the display aquarium because the sand will also provide a decorative effect. Is this the best choice though?

The DSB is at least 4″ (circa 10 cm) deep, so at the front viewing plate this depth of sand will show. This may not bother the aquarist, and if it does it is a simple matter to place a decorative strip across the bottom of the front glass. So that isn’t a problem.

One problem often arises because of the construction of the DSB. This is from very fine sand, so fine it can drift easily. It is very important for the health of livestock that the seawater has sufficient movement. These currents could easily blow the fine sand and spoil the sand bed. Much like sand affected by waves on the shore, the sand could pile up in some areas. It could even leave a bare aquarium bottom in others. This is obviously not desirable as the sand may rise above the decorative strip placed to hide it, and worse the DSB will not properly function. The fine sand could also accumulate on rockwork which would spoil the décor.

A DSB in the display aquarium could have another disadvantage. Rockwork is always placed on the aquarium bottom, or raised above it on a plastic support, not on the sand. This avoids instability and avoids sand compression. The DSB is pushed around the rock base and at first could look decorative and natural. It is a potential area for accumulation of detritus as seawater flow may well be reduced low down in the aquarium, particular around some bottom areas of the rockwork. This detritus needs to be removed with minimal disturbance to the sand, a task that is not particularly easy with fine sand present.

Livestock such as fish are usually present in an aquarium, the exception being the coral only reef. Fish are constantly looking for food and the tiny life that should appear in and on the DSB will be subject to predation. This sounds fine as live food is good for fish. However, in such a small area this sand dwelling life may not survive the predation. Some will survive in the live rock, but sand dwelling life is important to the health of the DSB.

So if having a DSB in the display aquarium is not the best course of action, what is? Many, perhaps most aquarists have a sump. This may have equipment in it and be used solely for this and the extra seawater gallonage it provides. If this is the case then a DSB could go in.

The aquarist will still require the sump to house equipment and this can be arranged. Fixing a glass or marine safe plastic plate into the sump to keep sand away from the return pump is straight forward, even with an operating system. If heaters are present they can be positioned above the DSB, and if a protein skimmer is present the intake can be the same.

The guideline for the minimum surface area of a DSB is 2/3rds the base area of the display aquarium – this is not always achievable, so the largest area that is should be used. The sump probably presents the largest area as the whole of the base, excluding the return pump area, is available. It depends on the size of the sump used of course. In the display aquarium the area between the rocks and the aquarium glass is available, and then not often down the back.

There will not be a problem with fine sand blowing about – the guideline for the flow rate through the sump is 3 times the total system gallonage per hour. The DSB can be placed into position more easily and the depth can be uniform. There will not be a problem with unwanted detritus and if anything does accumulate it can be more easily removed.

The life forms that inhabit the DSB will be protected from predation, though there will probably still be predation from other tiny sand living life. The DSB life is more likely to maintain its presence and population.

There is another way that a DSB could be introduced and that is to include an area above the sump to include it. This is done by placing a shallow (5 or 6″ high (circa 12.5 to 15 cm)) glass container above the sump, level with one end but stopping where the pump area in the sump begins. The down feed for the seawater from the aquarium is diverted to the DSB at one end; it then overflows at the other into the sump, being returned to the display aquarium as usual. It doesn’t take a lot of imagination to find alternatives to the same theme. This method keeps the sump area clear for other uses, and doesn’t add much seawater to the system (though adding more gallonage is not a bad thing).

Some aquarists run their display aquariums bare-bottomed, though the bare bottom doesn’t usually last long as various marine growths take over. Others employ a decorative sand bed 1″ to 2″ deep (circa 2.5 to 5 cm), this one made of coarse sand, though this too could be blown by seawater currents. The advantages of having a decorative sand bed are that there aren’t any filtration requirements so changes to the bed don’t matter, and they are easier to clean by stirring if dirt appears.

As said, keeping a DSB is a good move in aquarium husbandry. For practical reasons, it is better housed away from the display aquarium.

---

Sponges

Everyone knows what a sponge is; they go in the bath or shower and are great for washing. They can appear or be placed in the marine aquarium as well, though they’ll look different!

Living sponges vary in size from very small, 1″ (circa 2.5cm) or so, to huge, 18″ (circa 45.75cm) or so in diameter. There are many different ones, the total numbering 9000 plus*. The sponge is not a single celled organism but multi. They are always stationary and meet success or failure in that one position. In a similar way to soft corals, the sponge holds its shape by means of calcium spicules, though some are silica which divides sponges into calcareous or siliceous types. Different types can be found from very shallow to very deep seawater.

Sponges feed by drawing seawater in and filtering out nutrients. Once the filtration is complete the seawater is ejected with any waste. This is a continuous process.

Sponges are fairly common in retailers and come in various colours and shapes. The shape usually indicates the area where the sponge originated, flat encrusting types originally living in high water flow and taller wider ones offering more resistance to flow coming from quieter areas. Sponges are sometimes found on coral rocks when the aquarist acquires a new coral. They could also be growing on live rock, perhaps unseen as they are hidden from view.

Some sponges seem to be hardy, these being the encrusting types which can be found on living rock and coral rock. They often survive without specific feeding and are welcome.

The larger, more upright and brightly coloured sponges are more difficult. When on the captive reef they without doubt add bright colour and shape, and can be a real temptation to an aquarist. The aquarist should resist the impulse to buy, unless he/she has experience enough to maintain corals successfully, that is maintaining them long term in a healthy and growing condition. This at least gives an indication of husbandry abilities. Sponges are sensitive to declining seawater quality.

If a sponge is bought, it must not be exposed to the air at any time. Transfer into the home aquarium should take time allowing the seawater to equalize. The aquarist should not touch the sponge but maneuver it by the attached stone. This makes the point that there should be an attached stone; a purchase shouldn’t be made without one. On no account place a sponge on or into sand, it will die.

Position in the aquarium is very important. Reef aquariums use very bright lighting for the sake of the corals and this could lead to some encrusting and other algae. Algae are one of the enemies of sponges. Therefore they should be positioned in a dimly lit area, under an overhang perhaps, or low down where light is reduced. The position should also have gentle seawater flow.

The major problem with sponges is feeding them. Nutrient levels in reef systems are low, with efficient protein skimming and routine seawater changing. It is very unlikely that there will be sufficient food matter to sustain a sponge. I don’t know if a sponge is able to make use of dissolved organic matter (DOM) but placing the protein skimmer on a timer and running it for half the usual period may be useful? A close watch would need to be kept on seawater quality in case corals objected. Perhaps the way to feed a sponge with the best hope of success is to use a pipette with very fine foodstuffs, such as the foods commercially available targeted at filter feeding corals and fan worms. The corals and fan worms will also benefit and hopefully the sponge will obtain nutrients. This feeding will place an additional strain on the bio-filter as it is likely not all the food will be consumed. Again, a watch will be needed to ensure there isn’t excessive deterioration of seawater quality.

Sponges are food for some livestock. There are fish that eat them and a good example is the rock beauty angelfish (Holocanthus tricolor). Other angelfish and butterflyfish are a danger to them. There are more, including some snails and urchins. So it is essential, as always, to check compatibility with existing livestock before purchase.

The sponge I remember was purchased because of its lovely bright orange colour. It was properly attached to a rock and was shaped like a lollipop, about 5″ (circa 12.75cm) tall. The sponge was introduced properly and carefully positioned.

A demand was certainly placed on that virtue of marine aquarists, patience. This was required when feeding took place – a commercial filter feeding food was used. Great care was taken to ensure a small cloud of food surrounded the sponge once, sometimes twice a day. Seawater quality didn’t deteriorate, I assume because the aquarium had other filter feeders. I didn’t reduce the period the protein skimmer ran; it was left on full time. Perhaps I should have experimented with that.

The sponge didn’t grow or deteriorate. It maintained full colour and shape for about 12 months. Then a little grey was noticed, and this was seen to be very slowly spreading. The sponge was removed from the aquarium, as I was afraid of sudden failure and pollution.

If an attempt is to be made in keeping a sponge purchased from a retailer, then it is suggested that notes are kept on the techniques used from the very beginning, including introduction to the aquarium, positioning, seawater quality and particularly feeding. If reasonably successful then let your local club or internet forum know about the procedures used.

The link gives pages of sponge pictures.

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=sponges&x=65&y=10

(* Reference: Marine Aquarist Manual Comprehensive Edition. Dr. P. V. Loiselle & Hans A. Baensch)

---

Linking A ‘Multi-Purpose’ Aquarium

Many aquarists no matter what type of system they are running, fish only or reef, use more than the display aquarium. The obvious example is the sump.

Of course the extra aquarium doesn’t have to be just the sump, it can be one intended for other purposes.

An extra tank could be fitted alongside, above or below the display aquarium. For seawater movement gravity will play a part, a pump a part, and an overflow a part. The only requirement is the space to set it up, assuming the space below the aquarium has been used for a sump.

The additional aquarium can be any size and any shape, provided it meets the space requirement and also the decorative one if it is within the living area. If there is a lack of space and it is practical, supply and return pipes can run through a wall. Often doing this permits a larger extra aquarium to be fitted.

Once fitted, as with a sump the first advantage is the increase in seawater, the more of this there is the better. This is because the gallonage to livestock ratio is improved. It has to be remembered though that if the extra area is to have livestock this advantage will be reduced or removed.

If there isn’t a DSB (deep sand bed) already then the new area could have one. Perhaps the area could be used for the macro algae Caulerpa to assist with the removal of nitrates and phosphates. If this is the case then the algae needs to be fairly regularly and carefully harvested.

If the aquarist keeps a captive reef then the fish that can be kept are restricted to those that are reef friendly, for example fish are not required that could see coral polyps as lunch. Provided the additional aquarium is large enough, it could contain say a few butterfly fish that are beautiful but generally unsuitable for a reef display. There are cautions. First, the additional aquarium as said is linked into the system. If too heavy a bio-load is placed in the additional area, then the overall seawater quality could reduce and have a detrimental effect on the reef. The fish numbers might need to be restricted to perhaps half of maximum. The second caution also concerns the additional bio-load; can the bio-filtration deal with it? If there is any doubt then additional capacity would need to be provided, either by aquascaping the new area with sufficient live rock or providing an additional canister filter.

From time to time aquarists come across something that is not required in the display aquarium for whatever reason. A good example is a mantis shrimp, which is not desirable because it is an efficient predator. Yet the mantis shrimp is an interesting creature in its own right. Some aquarists purposely purchase one because of this. Providing a home for one in the additional aquarium is straightforward, the shrimps are not too fussy. A sand bed the shrimp can burrow in and a few rocks are fine. The effect on seawater quality is low so there isn’t a danger of trouble with the reef.

If the display contains fish only then the additional area, if it is large enough, could be used for more fish. Perhaps a predatory fish, such as a lionfish, which cannot be housed with the others would be suitable. The volume could be stocked with a full bio-load as there will not be an effect on the original display. Again, care must be taken with the bio-filtration, ensuring that there is sufficient capacity. Fish present the highest challenge to the bio-filtration system.

Then again, there are creatures that are not suitable for the reef or fish only systems, but could do well in the additional aquarium. Among these are seahorses. The seawater flow rate in a fish only or reef system would be too high, and in addition the fish present would eat the food before the seahorses had a chance to feed. So an aquarium could be set up with rock and perhaps Caulerpa to house these strange and fascinating creatures. The load on the bio-filter will not be increased a lot and seawater quality should not be adversely affected.

There are other livestock possibilities for an additional aquarium, and also advanced possibilities that an experienced aquarist could consider.

Whatever is done with the additional aquarium, if livestock are involved then attention needs to be given to seawater movement that is suitable, plus some lighting. The flow in and out of the aquarium will not usually create sufficient movement, and the easiest fully acceptable route is two powerheads subject to requirements. If corals are not involved then two fluorescent tubes are usually enough to provide sufficient light.

There is one additional use that the system linked aquarium is not suitable for, and that is quarantine. When new fish (and other livestock) are purchased it is a good idea to use a quarantine area to give time for recovery from the ordeals of travel. Stress is high and there is a danger of disease and other problems. The time provided permits the livestock to feed in peace and build up their immune system. If a disease breaks out it is much easier to deal with. After three or four weeks, all things being well, the livestock can go into the display aquarium.

If the quarantine aquarium is linked into the display system then there isn’t any quarantine as the seawater is circulating throughout. Any parasites and other nasties are likely to find their way into the whole system which would be a real problem. Also, how could fish that have developed ‘white spot’ or ‘velvet’ be treated with copper? For a start, the medication would be diluted as the whole system seawater volume is involved not just the quarantine area. If a captive reef is present then invertebrates cannot tolerate copper. And so on.

It could be thought possible to use the additional aquarium for quarantine if the in and outflow were stopped for the quarantine period, thus protecting the other livestock. However, again what if copper has been used for an outbreak of disease? All the seawater in the quarantine area needs to be thrown away of course which is easily done, but what of residual copper? Also, can there be certainty that there aren’t any surviving parasites? The quarantine area would need to be stripped down.

Finally, a quarantine tank needs to be available all the time, in case of unforeseen trouble never mind newly purchased livestock. It cannot therefore be used for any display. So it is best kept entirely separate. The tank does not need to be large.

An additional aquarium linked into the system, with attention given to bio-filtration as mentioned if necessary, can provide the aquarist with many possibilities previously unavailable because of livestock compatibility issues. Additional livestock or additional filtration, the system will be the better for it.

---

Take As Much Time As Is Needed Before Purchasing Any Animals

With the festive period now finished and a new year just beginning there will probably be a lot of people who are interested in starting a marine aquarium – and why not – it is a fantastic, educational, relaxing hobby to be a part of.

If you are new to this hobby and are thinking of starting then as the title of this post says ‘take as much time as is needed before purchasing any animals’.

You may be surprised how many people do minimal or no research at all before purchasing fish, corals etc and to me this is just cruel and the majority of aquarists ultimately regret it and in a lot of occasions actually end up giving up.

The research and planning could take a week, it could take a month, it could even take six months but it is imperative that the research and planning is done prior to purchasing any animals.

I understand that this may put some people off however whilst the care of the animals is a very large component another is both the actual understanding of the hobby and the confidence of the aquarist. It may sound like hard work but it isn’t, it is enjoyable as long as you are someone who likes to learn. If every marine aquarium was easy to setup then we would all have successful aquarium with no problems. In truth any aquarist can be a success – as long as they do research and plan.

With some hobbies you can be up and running within a week, some actually within the same day but this hobby is a little different to other hobbies. There is a lot to learn, there is a lot to plan for and there are also two things that you do not want to waste – time and money.

This does not mean that you will not physically have anything – you will not spend the next 2-3 months with your head in a book, starting at a computer screen etc. You can if you want but there is no need to. You can purchase physcial items like the aquarium. equipment etc. You can even have water in there but I would not recommend purchasing any animals until you are ready. Of course the aquarium needs to be ready for the introduction of animals however you, as an aquarist also need to be ready.

The research you need to do will depend upon any previous experience you may have had in the aquarium hobby. If you have successfully kept coldwater or tropical fish before then you have a good headstart – you now need to understand the differences.

Basically when you are researching and planning you want to be looking into the following areas:

Research

The first entry and this does depend upon any previous experience is the basics – this is followed by water quality, equipment and care/maintenance. Below are some questions which you can then research the answers:

(Hint – The answers to all of the above questions and more and on this Aquarists Online!)

• What is filtration, what does it do and why is it required?
• What is nitrate and how to reduce/manage it?
• Why is detritus bad in a marine aquarium?
• What are the different types of lighting and which on is most suitable for the aquarium you hope to keep?
• What does a protein skimmer do?
• Why is calcium required in a reef tank and what can you do to maintain it?
• Why is temperature control important and how can it be performed?
• How do you feed fish and corals correctly?
• What is reverse osmosis water?
• Why is water circulation important and what are the different ways in which it can be performed?
• Which fish are compatiible with other fish and which corals are compatible with other corals?
• What is quarantine and why should you do it?
• What do you need to clean and why?
• How do you mix saltwater?

Planning

The planning stage should be performed either when the initial research has been completed or as it is coming to a close.

As with the research stage this stage can be performed by answering the following questions:

• Which type of aquarium are you going to have – glass or acrylic?
• What size will the aquarium be?
• Are you going to use a sump?
• Are you going to implement any extra nutrient export mechanisms like a refugium?
• How are you going to filter the aquarium?
• Do you need to plan/build a stand and/or canopy?
• Where will the aquarium be located?
• Do you need to draw a plan of the aquarium plumbing?
• Where will the circulation devices be located?
• Are there enough power outlets?
• Does the floor need strengthening?
• Where will the protein skimmer be located?
• Where will your reverse osmosis unit be located?
• What is the future of the aquarium?

Once the above questions in the planning stage are answered then you are now in position to be able to start purchasing items. Personally I really enjoy the planning stage – I do loads of drawing both by hand and on the computer. I make a list of all the items I am going to need to get started and then once purchased start putting it all together. As said I really enjoy this time and this is an area that should not be rushed. You should try to enjoy this part of the hobby as much as you will do when their are fish, corals etc in the aquarium.

The questions in the above two sections of course do not detail everything you need to know. The answers you gain from these questions will be enough for you to start purchasing the equipment you actually need and hopefully not waste money or waste your own time. From doing this research and planning your own confidence should increase as you will have gained more knowledge about the hobby – all you need now is experience. This will come in time however with you actually doing your research and planning your aquarium properly then you will be in a position to be able to add animals to your aquarium. Do not rush the stage between putting the equipment together and adding fish, coral etc. Your research will tell you why and ensure that you take your time when adding animals.

Some of the questions above and any associated answers may bring about other questions which you may want to look into to locate the answer. The answer may be on Aquarists Online – if it is not for some reason then you can always contact us and we will either write an article about it, provide you with the answer or you can post a question in the forum.

It does need to be noted that there is a lot more to learn however you can learn this as you go – to be honest you will always be learning as each and every aquarium is unique. There is a saying in this hobby that the research never ends and it is a very true saying, however this is what makes this hobby both informative and educational. I think so anyway and that is why I love it so much.

When it comes to purchasing the actual equipment don’t forget to shop around and try to get the best deal. You can either purchase online where it quite often is cheaper or you can purchase at your locate retailer and try and build rapport with the owner/staff. The more you save in the purchase of equipment is money that can ultimately be spend on fish, corals etc. If you choose to purchase online then Aqua Compare is a great tool for comparing prices and this is why we created it.

Don’t forget that once your aquarium is up and running then why not take some photos of it, post them in the social area so that others can enjoy it. Alternatively why not start a blog in the social area detailing your progress – I for one would love to see any or both of these and I am sure that others would as well.

---

« Previous Page — Next Page »