Resources To Help You Make Your Own Live Rock

November 28, 2007

Live rock is a fantastic tool to use as a method of filtration in the saltwater aquarium. Another good thing about live rock is that it looks so natural in the aquarium.

There are a couple of issues however:

1. Live rock, dependant upon the amount required is not that cheap
2. You never quite get the shapes and sizes you need to create the rock structure you hoped for.

For these reasons and some others which I have not mentioned there are some people in this hobby who are now looking at making their own live rock.
[Read more]

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Aquascaping Designs - Be Creative

September 2, 2007

When it comes to the time when you are ready to [tag-tec]aquascape[/tag-tec] your aquarium you will have to make your mind up as to which design you would like to make.

Quite often people, and I have seen it a lot, place the rock into the aquarium and basically create a wall of rock. Although this type of design may be appealing to some people it is not that appealing to me. In my opinion they do not look that attractive and to be fair not that natural.

If you go diving on any of the natural reefs you will see some fantastic structures - quite often they are very basic in design.

I think if people spent a little more time planning the aquascape they would like prior to ’scaping’ it then they could come up with some great designs.

For example you could drill holes in the rock and attach them together using piping to form pillars of rock of which corals could be placed all the way round.

Another way might be to create a central building block in the centre of the aquarium so again you have the entire structure to place corals on.

With both of these structures there is one thing that you will have no issue with - water movement.

If you are at this stage (or coming to it) then why not have a look at some coral reef pictures and then draw the design you would like. It does not have to be anything fancy - just doodle on paper and then try to assemble it in the aquarium.

The basis of [tag-tec]aquascaping[/tag-tec] the aquarium is quite straight forward. You want to achieve the following :

  • Build an open structure
  • Have places to place/attach corals to
  • Provide places for the fish to hide/retreat
  • Be natural
  • Be stable
  • Be aesthetically pleasing

You also need to have a look back at how you are going to place the rocks into the aquarium - will you be placing them directly onto the glass. Will they bes standing on/in the stand. Will you be elevanting them off the floor.

To assist you in your creativity I have listed some ideas of mine below.

  • Use branching rock and build a structure which looks like the roots of a tree
  • Use plating rock mixed with ‘boulder’ rock and create a structure with flat plates
  • Create pillars of rock
  • Create a structure which is high on the left and right leaving an open structure in between
  • Create a sloping structure from left to right or right to left
  • Create islands of rock
  • Create caves

These are just a few I have come up with and there will literally be hundreds more. Use your imagination and come up with a great [tag-tec]aquascape design[/tag-tec].


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Aquascaping Your Aquarium

August 20, 2007

It does not matter if you have chosen live rock or ‘dead’ rock for your aquarium. There is one simple thing that you must do and that is ‘[tag-tec]aquascaping[/tag-tec]‘.

What this basically means is installing the rock into the aquarium so that it is stable, open and aesthetically pleasing.

The rock needs to be stable so that, funnily enough it does not fall over. If it is not built stable then the entire structure could fall over. At best you would have to rescape it. The worst scenario is that you could kill one of your aquarium inhabitants or even worse crack the aquarium! [Read more]

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Selecting Your Aquarium Live Rock

August 15, 2007

As we know aquarium live rock is an extremely effective filtration media to use within the saltwater aquarium. Not only does it provide filtration it also makes the aquarium look more natural.

With so many different types of live rock available however which one should you choose and how much do you need.

When setting up your aquarium you should have an idea as to what you want to keep and also what you hope it to look like. During the planning stage you should have looked into the following as well as numerous other aspects :

  • Location
  • Aquarium size
  • Overflows (if required)
  • Stand design
  • Plumbing (if required)
  • Filtration basics
  • What you hope to keep
  • etc…

Of course there are various different types of primary filtration you can choose for your aquarium. It is up to you the aquarist to decide, however for the purpose of this post we will presume that [tag-tec]aquarium live rock[/tag-tec] is the filtration of choice.

The first thing that you need to work out is how much live rock you are actually going to need in relation to the amount of water in your aquarium. This is of course a hard aspect to work out as it does depend upon what you are keeping and how much ’stock’ you will have in your aquarium - it is presumed that you will not be overstocking….

….of course you wont - good.

There is another variant when it comes to calculating the amount of [tag-tec]live rock[/tag-tec] which you will need in your aquarium and that is the type of live rock you will actually use. There are various types you can use. For more information you can see the post ‘Natural Aquarium Filtration’

For this example I will base the calculation upon fully cured [tag-tec]Fiji live rock[/tag-tec] as this is the most common one used.

The basic calculation to follow is that you will require 1 1/4 to 1 3/4 pounds per gallon of water in the entire aquarium system. When you are working out the gallonage of water remember to include the sump if you have opted to use one.

If you are unsure as to the water volume your aquarium holds then you can use a calculator which can be located here.

Now you should be in a position where you know how much water your aquarium hold before displacement and how much live rock you roughly need. If you are not completely sure about how much live rock you will need then purchase a bit more just to be safe.

Now comes the funs bit - purchasing it.

Again in this example I will base this post upon fully cured aquarium live rock.

There are effectively 2 ways you can purchase live rock - one is via mail order or the internet and the second is in person.

I personally prefer the latter option as you get to physically choose the pieces yourself. With this first option someone, somewhere will choose the pieces for you and you effectively get what is delivered. This does have benefits however which are normally down to cost. If you shop around in magazines and on the internet you can get a great deal.

The second option of choosing them yourself is more fun though but what do you look for?

When you visit the shop have a good look around the shop first to see what sort of condition their aquariums, fish and corals are in. This will give you a good estimate as to how the shop is run and how things are maintained. If you have already built a relationship with a local fish shop then this should not be a problem for you.

Have a good look at the live rock holding tanks and see what the pieces look like. If possible ask about their curing process and ask if you can see their curing vats. This is good as again you can see how they cure them and how much care is put into preserving the life on the rock. This is not always possible as some shops purchase live rock in fully cured.

When it comes to choosing your live rock you should have a rough idea as to what you hope your live rock structure(s) to look like. Bear this in mind when choosing the pieces. Have a good look at the pieces, ask for pieces to be removed for inspection if you can.

What you need to look for is that there is nothing decaying on the rock and especially that there are no pests present. This may take some looking for and you may have to be patient but it is worthwhile. Imagine how devestated you would be if you got your purchases home and a huge bristleworm for example poked out of the rock!

Look for good coralline growth on the rocks. This shows that the rock is of good quality and has come a good quality stock. You will probably not get a great deal of things appear from the rock after it is in your aquarium. You might get some but that is not why we purchase live rock is it, we purhcase it for it’s magnificent filtration capabilities not for what might grow. If anything does grow then this is a bonus.

Try and pick pieces which will help you build the structure you desire. You will never get pieces which are the exact fit, however you can do the best you cnan. It will make aquascaping a lot easier later on - trust me.

Once you have made your selections the shop employee should remove them and pack them into a suitable container. Normally they are wrapped in paper or something similar so that the rock can remain damp in transit. They are left damp so reduce any further die off whilst they are on the move between the shop and your aquarium. There will be some die off experienced, however if packed correctly this should be minimal.

You are now in a position to be able to take your aquarium live rock home and begin the fun bit…..

aquascaping!


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Natural Aquarium Filtration

June 22, 2007

In this post I will cover what I believe to be the most powerful form of filtration currently available to the saltwater aquarist. I agree that this aspect of filtration may not be for everyone, however by understanding what [tag-tec]natural filtration[/tag-tec] is and how it works then you can implement the type of filtration which is best for you.

There are various types of natural based filtration methods available - all of which never ceases to amaze me. The diversity of organisms which is in the aquarium is huge, to me these are just as interesting as the fish and corals which we keep. There have been numerous times when I have been sat in front of the aquarium when all the lights are out with a torch (with a red bulb in it) staring into the aquarium watching all the life go about its business.

[Read more]

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The aquarium filter - how does it work then

June 15, 2007

Since yesterdays post we have had a few people contact us saying that it is all well and good talking about [tag-tec]aquarium filtration[/tag-tec] and different methods etc when there are a lot of visitors to this site who are thinking about starting a salt water aquarium and do not fully understand how an [tag-tec]aquarium filter[/tag-tec] actually works.

So here we go, this is the first of a couple of posts to touch upon the basics of aquarium filtration (what it is, how it works, methods etc)

The filtration system of any aquarium is absolutely essential. This filtration is the life blood of the aquarium system. It is especially more so in a marine tank as the life maintained is more sensitive to change. You must implement an effective and efficient filtration system.

Think of it this way, when you are building a flat pack piece of furniture you slowly assemble everything using as much patience and care as you can muster, you follow the instructions to the letter and at the end you have a fantastic piece of furniture which will take pride of place in your home.

However….

If you skip steps or do not follow the instructions given then it won’t turn out exactly as planned and won’t function as it was designed to do.

This is exactly the same in a marine aquarium - if you miss steps out, rush or do not understand why then this is a sure fire plan to potential disaster.

So let’s have a look at what the aquarium filter actually is and why it is a requirement.

The filtration aspect of any aquarium ensures that if maintained correctly excellent water conditions can be achieved, the exact water conditions which are both expected and demanded by the species you are hoping to keep.

There are three different aspects to filtration which each perform different functions, these are:

Mechanical Filtration
Biological Filtration
Chemical Filtration

OK - still with me, lets have a look at those.

Mechanical Filtration

This aspect of filtration is normally defined as the removal of particulate matter from the water. This is important as it removes matter from the water before it has time to break down naturally and release polutants into the water column,

A simple piece of mechanical filtration is a sponge which water is passed through. The sponge traps things in it which can be later removed by the aquarist for cleaning.

A lot of aquarium filtration devices actually combine an aspect of mechanical filtration into their design - canister filters, for example quite often have a sponge integrated into the container for this purpose. Powerheads which can be used to feed a fluidised filter can have a sponge on the intake to perform this function.

In an aquarium filtered via natural filtration (for example [tag-tec]saltwater live rock[/tag-tec]) then mechanical filtration can be accomplished via sponges/floss on the weirs of even via hermit crabs, snails etc. Hermit cracs, snails, starfish etc are natures mechanical filtration.

With a mechanical filter it is essential that it is cleaned often, for example if you combine a mechanical filter with a biological filter normally you would place the mechanical filter before the biological filter to prevent waste from entering the biological media chamber. Over time the mechanical media will become clogged and the water flow will be impeded. This slower water volume will mean that the filtration capabilities are reduced. Unless you clean the mechanical filtration media on a regular basis you are at risk from this.

Another problem is that sometimes the output from the mechanical filter is required to provide some of the water flow in the aquarium. If the media becomes clogged and the water flow reduces, the crucial water flow in your aquarium is lowered. It is not recommended to use mechanical filters to create in-tank water flow especially in a marine reef environment where water circulation is so important.

The water flow in a tank is crucial as it ‘blows’ detritus etc from the rocks into the water column and allows it to be caught by the mechanical filtration. (In a reef environment water circulation also provides corals etc with food and removes any mucus build up etc which may occur.)

A clean mechanical filtration system is a requirement. The media has to be removed regularly and cleaned otherwise the problems as described above can become evident.

Biological Filtration

Biological filtration is very important as it is the life support system. Without an efficiently functioning biological system the livestock would quickly become sick and potentially die. The process of biological filtration is known as the nitrogen cycle.

The reason it is called biological filtration is because it involves bacteria that feed on the wastes created. Probably the most well known wastes are ammonia and nitrite, both of which are toxic.

One set of bacteria breaks down ammonia when in the presence of oxygen. The result of this is nitrite which is dealt with by other bacteria again in the presence of oxygen, this time the product is nitrate. This is where the cycle ceases with several types of biological filtration. (Where the nitrogen cycle continues, the nitrate is converted into nitrogen gas, but this time in the absence, or nearly so, of oxygen.)

For successful biological filtration to occur you need to provide the following:

  1. Give the bacteria a suitable place to live
  2. Give them something to eat
  3. Provide oxygen

Now that seems straightforward doesn’t it. Actually it is!

At present there is no ‘absolutely perfect’ biological media on which to base your biological filtration. However, saltwater live rock does come very close. This is why systems based upon live rock are so popular at this moment in time. The filtration capabilities of live rock are excellent. Also, as a bonus, a tank with sufficient live rock will enable the full nitrogen cycle.

All biological media must be kept free from clogging. The majority of ‘off the shelf’ man-made filtration products cater for this, as an area of mechanical filtration is included. When using live rock as biological filtration the water flow in the tank is used to keep the system clean (as well as a clean up crew and the occasional manual clean).

The most likely neglected need of biological filtration is the supply of oxygen. It is essential that the tank water has as much oxygen content as possible. This will satisfy the requirements of the biological filtration, and will be beneficial to the other organisms, big and small, in the tank.

There are some filters which provide this oxygen by having the filter media “dry”. What this means is that the media is not submersed, but the water is passed through it before returning to the tank. A good example of this type of filtration is the trickle filter.

The other end of the scale is where the filtration media is entirely submerged in water, i.e. in canister based filtration, live rock, deep sand beds etc. The only oxygen available is that which is dissolved in the tank water.

A short note on the full nitrogen cycle. As already discussed, ammonia is converted to nitrite, which in turn is converted to nitrate. If biological filtration such as canister filters are being used, the nitrogen cycle does not proceed beyond the production of nitrate. Sufficient quantities of live rock will process nitrate as will a deep sand bed.

An aquarist using for example canister filters, can control nitrate with water changes. In addition, there are special filters available to process nitrate.

Chemical Filtration

Chemical filtration is an aspect of the aquarium filter where dissolved substances are removed from the water.

The most commonly used types are activated carbon and adsorbing resins. Adsorbing resins are very often used to remove phosphate.

Activated carbon traps particles from the water mechanically, though this is not its prime purpose. The prime purpose is to chemically bond some pollutants. These pollutants are dissolved organic compounds (DOC’s). These include proteins, fats, organic acids and other defensive/offensive chemicals that are sometimes secreted by marine life.

There is an issue with using activated carbon, this is that some good trace elements are removed. Regular water changes and the addition of supplements if necessary will replace these. The adsorption capability of activated carbon is limited, therefore it will need to be replaced at regular intervals, I would recommend at least every three weeks.

A good way to use activated carbon and/or phosphate removal media is to fluidise them. This increases the contact time with the water and improves efficiency. I have made my own fluidised devices in the past which I will post in the future about.

The decision as to which type of aquarium filter to use is a personal choice. Personally I use live rock in my aquariums, mixed with other nutrient export devices. My father uses canister filters as well as external nitrate/phosphate removal devices. Two completely different types of filtration, however both aquarium systems are deemed by us to be successful.

So that’s how filtration works in a nutshell - it may be worthwhile to understand how the nitrogen cycle works and the various different types of filtration devices which can be used.

I hope that this has been of some use and of interest to you.

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Marine aquarium filtration - why must you

June 14, 2007

During my hours lunch break at work I decided to pop to my local fish shop to have a look around and have a cup of coffee with the owner and have a break from the pressures of work - it’s amazing how looking at salt water aquariums can take all the stress and pressure away.

Anyway whilst I was there chatting to the owner I overheard a couple of people talking - one of them was obviously thinking about [tag-tec]starting a reef tank[/tag-tec] and they were chatting about [tag-tec]marine aquarium filtration[/tag-tec]. [Read more]

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