Planarians

Planarians are otherwise known as flatworms. They can be fairly colourful and a few in the aquarium could be accepted by the aquarist as another life form on the captive reef to create more interest.

Unfortunately this is not so. Flatworms can definitely be placed in the ‘pest’ category. Some are parasites on specific organisms such as corals and others, strangely enough and like many corals, have zooxanthellae within their bodies*. If the flatworms are coral parasites then it will soon become apparent what is being attacked. The parasitical types do not usually have any colour, in other words they are transparent, and can therefore be difficult to spot.

If the flatworms are the free living types, the ones with zooxanthellae, then they will be coloured a shade of red. They are properly called Convolutriluba. Probably because of their need for light, as with corals, they are more likely to thrive in a reef aquarium with its bright lighting.

Red flatworms can be seen anywhere in the aquarium, on the viewing glasses and rocks etc. Fish are generally not interested in them as food, though it is reported that the mandarin fish (Synchiropus splendidus) will eat them. Perhaps the psychedelic fish (Synchiropus picturatus) will as well, but this is a guess. They are both beautiful fish.

If the aquarist notices just a few flatworms then a mandarin fish could be released to clear them up. There is an important point to be made about this, quite apart from checking general compatibility of the mandarin with other stock before introduction. First, the mandarin will have sufficient food for a while as the flatworms can breed at a high rate. There will also be other life on the reef which is on the mandarin’s menu, such as tiny shrimps. However, this food will disappear if, as hoped, the mandarin does its job. To the aquarist’s dismay, many mandarins and sychedelic fish die months after introduction because of a lack of food. So they should only be released into a reef aquarium that has been up and running for around 18 months or preferably longer. In addition the reef should be constructed of live rock, which hopefully will mean that there will be plenty of minute reef life for the fish to hunt. A look at the reef at night will usually indicate the abundance of tiny creatures.

There is a sea slug that will prey on flatworms, and this is called Chelidonura varians. It is quite beautiful but where can the slugs be obtained? It is worth a check with the local retailer or a phone call to a large internet supplier, but it is likely that they cannot obtain them. However, some aquarists have got hold of them – a query on a busy internet forum may be of use. Of course the usual problem raises its head – what does the slug eat when all the flatworms have gone?

As already stated these red flatworms breed at a high rate. Just a few on the rocks can soon cover the rocks, then the rocks and glass, then the rocks, glass and substrate, then the rocks, glass, substrate and corals. Yes, they can be that bad! Anything living that is covered by them will perish in time by asphyxiation.

It isn’t any use introducing the fish mentioned above if the aquarium is in the described state, the fish will only be able to deal with some flatworms and the fish’s capacity will be outstripped completely. Though there have been one or two reports of flatworms suddenly dying out without interference from the aquarist (why they died out is not known), with a large population it is much more likely that to save the reef the aquarist is going to have to apply chemicals.

There is another danger too. Just to add insult to injury, when flatworm populations die they release toxins which can kill any fish present in a short time, a few hours. It is reported that invertebrates are also killed by the toxins. Thanks!

So if the aquarist is going to use chemicals to kill the flatworms then, subject to the instructions supplied by the manufacturer, the protein skimmer should be at peak efficiency and activated carbon should be used, discarded and a new batch used again, all immediately after the treatment. Also any mechanical filter(s) should be carefully cleaned. In addition, a supply of new seawater should be ready, and the amount should be sufficient to carry out a seawater change of 25% or even higher, and the aquarist should be prepared to do another very shortly after if any signs of distress are noticed.

Let’s finish on a happy note! In all the years (decades, good grief!) that I have been keeping fish and corals I have never faced a flatworm problem. This could be good luck of course, and so I’m keeping my fingers crossed.

(*Reference:  Marine Atlas. Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch)

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An Aiptasia Predator

Marine aquarists, generally, have all the pleasure and little grief, with high seawater quality and a happy mix of livestock. True, on occasion there can be some trouble – with algae for example, but generally it’s a peaceful and pleasurable hobby. It is with me.

There is one thing wrong though, which doesn’t really harm the pleasure but is irritating nevertheless. There is an ongoing battle with the aiptasia anemone and this is happening in many aquariums, particularly reefs. I control the little blighters with Joe’s Juice, a commercial application that kills the anemone it is applied to. There are other commercial formulations available. Unfortunately, as I understand it, when the anemone is attacked it releases emergency spores, so though the parent is doomed the babies are going to grow for the next round. In addition, in a reef system there are many caves and crevices and all the aiptasia cannot be eliminated.

There are natural controls such as the copperband butterfly fish (Chelmon rostratus). This fish is a beauty in itself and is recommended by some respected authorities. However, not all aquarium systems are suitable and the fish is not suitable to a beginner.

There is another predator that is hitting the headlines, and it is a nudibranch. These creatures are like snails without a shell. Some of them are really lovely and others not. The one of interest here is fairly small and quite good looking. Its proper name is Berghia verrucicornis.

The natural diet of the nudibranch is aiptasia. They are otherwise reef safe and could breed in the aquarium, all conditions being acceptable. They are sociable with each other so more than one can be kept. What a discovery! Aiptasia, the writing is on the wall!

These little creatures are already being commercially bred and can be purchased for home delivery. Unfortunately, as far as I can tell European aquarists may have to wait a while for supplies to materialize. Aquarists in the United States are more fortunate as they are currently available.

The nudibranchs need to be acclimatized carefully and information is provided about this. Once settled they are reported to be hardy.

It is of course important that there isn’t anything in the aquarium which will harm the nudibranchs and checks will need to be made.

There are two links following that are concerned with the nudibranch. Anyone wishing to find out more has only to go into Google and type in the nudibranch’s proper name and further links will be found.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-01/ac/feature/index.php

http://www.berghia.net/

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Sigh!

I really like my soft coral reef – all the time it developed over the last 5½+ years and how it is now. It is really full of a diverse range of corals coloured various pastel shades, the tall ones swaying in the currents. There is hardly any rock to be seen as it is nearly all covered. The rear glass and one side are decorated with varying shades of algae, purple, dark and light green, brown and, thankfully, not a trace of the nuisance stuff.

Three fish were originally housed, a flame angel (Centropyge loricula), a flashback dottyback (Pseudochromis diadema), and a blue devil damsel (Chrysiptera cyanea). They were all chosen as they would be able to stand up to each other’s aggressiveness. This proved to be the case; the flame angel became boss quickly. They were all introduced to the tank at the same time.

The dottyback at 2½ years disappeared and I have no idea why. The fish was well fed with rounded body, good fins and clear eyes. Perhaps it got itself stuck in the rockwork somewhere? As said I haven’t a clue as to the reason. To date it hasn’t been replaced as the other two are really well settled healthy and happy. I don’t want to upset the equilibrium, and am also afraid that two quite aggressive fish, well established, could pick on a newcomer with sad results.

The system started off with canister bio-filtration (yes, I know, but I’m coming to live rock). There’s a skimmer (of course!) and also a home-made reverse flow anti-phosphate reactor. There’s also a home-made anti-nitrate sulphur based reactor.

As time passed I wondered if there would be a need for the de-nitrator any more. It was originally attached because of the presence of canister filtration and the consequent production of nitrate. The seawater never showed any trace of nitrate. The rocks that had been used for the reef were not live but inert hard porous types, locally called Grotto rock. I don’t know the proper geological name. Anyway, the rock became covered with all sorts of growths and looked after time had passed very much like live rock. I decided that the nitrate was being dealt with by the now live rock. So switch off the de-nitrator then. This was done but only after I’d dithered for another few months, and after the device had been switched off I needed to do nitrate tests regularly to assure myself all remained well. It did, and to date there hasn’t been any nitrate detected.

The anti-phosphate reactor is still running and will not be stopped. There has never been any phosphate detected.

Originally I ran two Eheim canister filters containing bio media. One has had the media removed and now runs empty – I am considering what to do with this, if anything. The other still contains bio media and I am considering removing that too. The rocks will contain sufficient bacteria, but I am always cautious. Once the second canister is empty ammonia checks will be done for a while, again to confirm that bio filtration is adequate. The livestock, all corals and two small fish, is not exactly a heavy load.

I sit and look at this system having seen it develop and continue to develop and feel really pleased overall. It’s so interesting, corals and fish as said, but also tiny life that darts about on the rocks and deep sand bed particularly at night.

Being so pleased, what’s the big ‘Sigh’ about? Well, it’s about defeat. At least, defeat up to now.

I’ve had two problems. One was those little green balls, known as Sailor’s Eyeballs, properly known as Ventricosa ventricosa. It is a green algae that is thought to be the largest single-celled organism on earth. It’s also quite attractive, at least it is until it begins to spread. Inside each ball are spores – if the algae is broken the spores go all over the place and new algae grows. In time the algae can overwhelm an aquarium. However, I obtained a length of rigid airline and some flexible airline, and went round at seawater change time bursting the algae. The seawater running down the tube to a bucket carried the spores with it. The algae was defeated – occasionally two or three appear but meet the same fate. No problem – very happy.

So! Explain the sigh. Yes, to date I am defeated. Well, not entirely to be truthful. I’ll mention the words Aiptasia and Manjano and there are so many aquarists who will no doubt say ‘Ah’ sympathetically. The dreadful anemones, weeds of the reef. They seem to grow so easily and often pick a spot that is really awkward. They don’t have intelligence do they?

I have never made the mistake of squashing them or scraping at them, this will only spread them around. I’ve considered the natural possible remedies – the Copperband butterfly (Chelmon rostratus) and the peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni). I won’t try the Copperband for the reasons stated earlier, but I might try the shrimps. Reports on the internet, anecdotal not scientific, suggest that they could eat the anemones not that they will. It is quite likely that I’d get shrimps that turned their noses up at them.

So to date I’ve used Joe’s juice. This is successful and clearly destroys the anemone quite quickly. So how do the things keep re-appearing? When they do re-appear they are small, so they are new growths. Wandering around on the internet I found that apparently the anemones recognize the Joe’s Juice application as deadly. It is said that as they are attacked they release what could be termed ‘emergency’ spores – and hence new anemones appear. There is a new application available which apparently the anemones do not recognize as dangerous. Perhaps I’ll try that after a time so that effectiveness can be judged.

I said that I hadn’t been fully defeated by the anemones. There aren’t that many in the tank as periodically I attack them all when they are small – they are not allowed to grow (except one or two that have lodged in very difficult places, letting them grow a bit provides a bigger target). They don’t spoil the appearance of the reef at all. It’s just…well…they’re there and I know they are and they shouldn’t be! Why don’t they comply the little perishers.

A gardener doesn’t give up because there are weeds to be dealt with. There is no way I’ll allow the anemone to get too far under my skin. I tell myself they are part of nature; they’ll be on the reef. On the reef of course will be an efficient predator.

I enjoy my reef immensely and will continue to do so. The anemones are the only thing that I’ve not had success with. Sigh. But one day!

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Aiptasia – Death By Fire!

I found a really interesting article over at Elder Reef today. Andy has found what looks like a really unique way to clear the aquarium of aiptasia.

Aiptasia can very easily become a pest in the saltwater aquarium. At first they appear to be a welcome addition, however before long they reach plague like propotions in the aquarium and are very hard to clear.

There are various prducts on teh market, Joe’s Juice, Aiptasia-X and others for example, however these do not always work.

Andy has found a new way – burn them off!

From the article it looks like it does work, time will tell if they return or not and I hope Andy updates us on his blog with the progress. If it does work then this is great for rocks which you can rremove from the aquarium. For the rocks which are hard to remove then this technique might be a little trickier – let’s face it water and fire dont really mix.

Check it out – excellent read.

http://reef.eldersign.org/?p=317

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Reef Aquarium Pests

As with most hobbies there are some things that are definitely undesirable. Keeping a saltwater reef aquarium or [tag-tec]saltwater fish only aquarium[/tag-tec] is a most fulfilling hobby, but irritating problems can occur.

For example, outbreaks of filamentous green algae, brown/black/red smear algae, [tag-tec]glass anemones[/tag-tec] and bubble algae (sailor’s eyeball algae) are four of the major culprits. These problems can develop into major headaches if proper action during setting-up and the following care and maintenance are not taken.

The really annoying part is that glass anemones and [tag-ice]bubble algae[/tag-ice] can be decorative at first. In fact, an unwary and inexperienced aquarist might be pleased with his new additions.

These problems usually arrive with new corals, or, rather, on the rocks the new corals are attached to. Live rock can also introduce them.

A major cause of [tag-self]algae problems[/tag-self] is low water quality, that is, water that has too high levels of nitrate and phosphate. It has been reported that filamentous green algae, smear algae, and glass anemones do well in the presence of nitrate and phosphate.

To make bubble algae (sailor’s eyeball algae) even more annoying, it is said that to do well it needs high quality water. So if they appear in your tank, definitely take control action, but at least be pleased that your water is good.

I have dealt with bubble algae successfully. I have also waged war with glass anemones, but have found that, once the war is generally won, occasionally control action is needed when another pops its unwelcome head up.

The answer to these problems is the proper setting up of a tank from the start, and ongoing care and maintenance.

These reef aquarium pests may never invade your tank at all, but it is probable that one or the other will appear. Be aware, and be prepared with the necessary knowledge to take remedial action.