Have A Soft Flow For Better Polyp Extension
August 31, 2008
Seawater movement in the aquarium is a known requirement. This movement is needed by all marine aquarium creatures to a greater or lesser extent.
The aquarist who keeps a fish only system may believe that seawater movement is not so important and that belief is correct. However, fish need reasonable movement to prevent an area of ‘dead’ seawater developing around their body. It is also much more natural to have healthy movement as this is after all what occurs in their natural habitat, the wild reef. Fish also have a strong demand for oxygen and seawater movement maximizes good gas exchange.
Corals have a greater demand for seawater movement generally. This demand does vary between types, for example soft corals, again generally speaking, need less flow than hard corals, particularly the SPS (small polyp stony) types. As a general guideline to seawater movement, in the aquarium a soft coral display requires around 10 times the net gallonage to be moved per hour, and hard corals around 20 times or more. This movement is within the display aquarium, and does not apply to seawater moving through a sump.
The normal way of generating this movement is to employ power heads. More than one is usual, so that the outputs clash and chaotic and random movement is achieved. The output of the normal power head exits from a nozzle of, say, ½” (circa 12mm) in diameter. As this nozzle is narrow and the output is high, the seawater forms a powerful and narrow stream. This can be damaging to corals should it have a direct impact and care is needed in the coral’s placement. Even then corals in a good environment grow and may enter the high speed stream zone.
There is a relatively new type of power head now available which serves the same purpose as the type mentioned already. There is a very significant difference however, and this is that the nozzle is much wider, measuring around say 2½” to 3″ (circa 63mm to 75mm). Seawater leaving exits in a much gentler manner, which is not in a narrow stream but in a broader front. As the seawater stream is not so damaging the amount of seawater that is moved can be significantly increased over the older types of device, so the total amount of seawater that needs to be moved per hour is more easily achieved. The movement is more natural as well, as the stream forms, as said, a wider front. In the same way that the older power heads can be used in opposition, so can the wide output types. In fact, if two or more are used in opposition on timers then a wave system is not that difficult to generate.
The result of all this is generally happier corals. Provided the currents are not so strong that soft corals are being overcome by the surge and even hard corals are hard put to expand properly, the aquarist should see the corals are expanding and extending their polyps noticeably more.
The only time when the wide outlet power heads could need their output reducing is at feeding time to enable the fish to feed at leisure. Control units for the power heads, if used, normally have this ‘pause’ facility built in. Some aquarists also reduce the output of the power heads at night.
Anything that makes the aquarium environment a more natural one isn’t a bad thing, and the use of wide outlet power heads is a step in this direction.
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Aquarium Equipment – The Peristaltic Pump
July 16, 2008
Aquarists use different types of equipment to assist in the running of their aquariums. These can be very important ‘must haves’ such as a protein skimmer and circulation pumps, or labour saving devices such as an automated evaporation top-up device or calcium reactor.
One piece of labour saving equipment is the peristaltic pump. This device originated in the medical profession where medications needed to be applied to patients in precise but low amounts over time. The device has been found to be useful in the marine aquarium hobby and there are models available manufactured for this purpose.
The units vary in size, some perhaps 1″ (circa 25mm) in thickness by perhaps 4″ (circa 1.2mm) square. The ones destined for use with an aquarium are usually constructed of plastic, often with a clear panel on one side. The clear panel enables the owner to see the flexible tube inside.
The unit is powered by a small electric motor which to all intents and purposes is silent. This drives a shaft which revolves very slowly. As it revolves it usually drives three arms and on the end of each arm is a roller. A flexible tube about ¼” (circa 7mm) in diameter enters at one side of the unit and exits from the same side but the other corner. The flexible tube goes in a circle within the unit. When running, the rollers which are moving slowly in a circle compress the flexible tube and force any liquid present forwards in the same direction.
The pumps can be obtained in various outputs and with either static or variable speed. The static speed ones are of course less expensive. They run very cheaply on mains electricity and can be used with electric timers. Fitting them is simplicity itself, most being fitted upright in a convenient location out of sight but accessible and away from the danger of getting wet from seawater. The intake end of the tube should be fitted with a filter which is easily constructed – a small piece of fine filtration sponge with a narrow hole is the often used method. The outlet end of the tube could need holding down with a sucker or small weight as it might tend to float to a horizontal position.
The aquarist can make use of the pumps in several ways. Sometimes it is difficult to adjust the flow rate of an anti-nitrate filter (a de-nitrator) and a pump could be selected to move seawater through the filter, thus solving the problem. Or, provided the aquarist knows the demand of the aquarium, supplements could be applied for the appropriate period per day to meet the need. A watch would need to be kept that mixtures remained viable, that is did not de-mix over time, and also that clogging did not occur.
One area that the pump cannot be used for is timed feeding. This is a great shame as it is ideally suited and could successfully dose an aquarium accurately according to the demand of the livestock. So why can’t it be used? It is simply because the food goes off. The pump needs a small reservoir so that timed feeding can occur. During this time the liquefied food morsels could fall to the bottom of the reservoir, though the problem could be avoided by a simple stirring system. As said though, when waiting to be used the food deteriorates. Experiments have been made with refrigeration devices, all by aquarists but as far as I know a successful solution has not been found. If feeding could be done with the aid of the pump then more natural feeding over the daylight hours could be accomplished, rather than the one or two heavier meals a day that usually occurs.
There is very little to go wrong with a peristaltic pump. The item to watch is the flexible tube inside the pump in the region where it is compressed. Over time it starts to fail and needs replacement. The tube is not expensive and so a length can be kept as spare. Some manufacturers supply this spare tubing with a new pump.
So if the aquarist is having difficulty in supplying a correct flow rate or wants to apply precise amounts of liquid to the aquarium a peristaltic pump could be considered.
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Closed Loop Circulation – How Hard Is It To Install
January 24, 2008
Creating good water movement in the aquarium is required in order for the [tag-self]aquarium filtration[/tag-self] (if live rock is used) to be both efficient and effective, for the correct oxygenation to occur and for the transport of both food and waste around the aquarium.
A lot of aquarists simply utilise a few (or more) powerheads and strategically place these around the aquarium hoping to create the required water movement. In a lot of cases this works and the water movement created is excellent. Other aquarists also decide to utilise spraybars under or behind the rockwork as well as near to the water surface.
With enough patience mixed with a bit of ingenuity excellent water movement can be achieved.
There is another way though and in my opinion it is a better way.
Closed Loop Circulation.
There is a lot of confusion when it comes to closed loop circulation and to be honest once you understand how it works it really is not that hard to implement.
Closed loop circulation works by water being taken from the aquarium down to an external water pump, this water pump then pushes the water back up to the aquarium where the water circulation is created.
The above is a very high overview as to how closed loop circulation works so I shall try and go into a litle more detail.
The water inlet is submerged in the water. This can either be via overflow pipework which goes up and over the aquarium lip and down to the water pump or it can be via a hole drilled in either the side or base of the aquarium.
This pipework is then attached to the water pump. In a lot of cases it is impossible to directly attach the rigid pipework to the pump so the rigid pipe needs to be attached to flexible tube which is then attached to the pump. Actually I would not recommend attaching rigid pipe to the water pump due to possible vibrations created by the water pump. The rigid pipework can be attached to the flexible pipework by heating up the flexible pipe and then gently stretching it over the flexible pipework.
The outlet of the water pump needs to be attached in the same manner.
The pipework is then returned to the aquarium again either by going up and over the aquarium lip or via drilled holes in the aquarium base.
As with the inlet the outlet needs to be underwater.
The outlet is the interesting part. You can have one outlet or you can have two, three possiblly more. The number of outlets depends upon the power of the pump and how creative you are with your plumbing. For example you could have a single closed loop and from that closed loop have 3 outlets at the bottom front of the aquarium pointing up the reef face (one on the front left hand corner, one in the center front and one in the front right hand corner). All of this from one pump!
Of course you do not need to have just one closed loop, you can have as many or as few as you want or need.
Lets pretend for example you have three separate closed loops. One of these is pushing water up the reef face from the front (closed loop 1(very good for oxygenation)), another is pushing water through the rockwork from the rear (closed loop 2) and the thrid is near to the water surface at the top to create additional water movement (closed loop 3). You would get a huge amount of water movement from those loops. Now imagine what you could do with a bit of creativity. You can get the exact [tag-self]water circulation[/tag-self] that you want and your aquarium needs.
Lets step back a little. Why do both the outlet and inlet need to be under water?
In a closed loop system there is no oxygen whatsoever in the pipework. There is just water. For this reason there is no head loss on the water pump, therefore you will get all the power out of your pump without losing any power at all. The reason for this is that the water does not have to fight against gravity and is being pushed upwards by the water pump. At the same time water coming dowm from the inlet is being pulled along by the water in front of it which in turn is also strangely enough pusing the water along in front of it.
So how do you remove all of the oxygen from the pipework?
It is important to note at this point that it does not matter if the outlet is of drilled hole type or the up and over the lip type. The important part is the inlet.
In a closed loop where the inlet is a drilled hole in the aquarium then this is very easy as the water will flow down through the hole down to the pump. At this point you simply turn the pump on and all the remaining oxygen is pushed out of the loop – job done.
In a closed loop where the inlet goes up and over the aquarium lip you need to be able to lift the water up into the pipe until it overflows down to the pump.
This is actually very easy to do and there are a couple of ways to do this.
The first way is to simply push some airline into the inlet right to the upper bend and then suck all the air out. Once you get a mouth full of salt water then you are done. Cover the airline so that air does not get sucked back in and start the water pump. The water pump will push any remaining air out of the loop.
The second way is to drill a small hole in the top of the pipe (right where it overflows over the top of the lip). In the hole insert a piece of airline and a gang tap. Then simply suck on the pipe until you get (or nearly) a mouth full of saltwater. At this point close the tap and start the pump. As before the water pump will push out any remaining air.
On a closed loop system I would reccomend that you install shut off valves into the pipework onto both sides of the water pump. This way you will be able to close the taps and remove the water pump for maintenance or replacement if the water pump fails for whatever reason.
One thing that must also be noted is that the water pump does not need to be located underneath the aquariun. It can be located to the side or even above the aquarium. The reason I prefer it underneath the aquarium is that it is easier to prime the loop (remove the air). When the pump is above the aquarium you have to suck air out of the tube and this can take a whike – much easier when the pump is under the aquarium.
In my opinion closed loop circulation is fantastic on a [tag-tec]saltwater aquarium[/tag-tec]. You can have as many or as few loops as you want. You can have the outlets in the exact location you want, you can have pipework the width you want (the wider the width the gentler the flow) and you can have more than one outlet per loop.
On another note with the water pump being external to the aquarium a heat source is removed and that has to be good in itself.
So have a think about it. As said powerheads etc can and do work. I have used them with great effect, however I personally feel that you can create much better water circulation in the aquarium via closed loops. For example it would be hard to have power heads at the front of the aquarium pointing up and not look unsightly.
Yet you can with closed loops and a lot more.
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Closed Loop Circulation – What’s That Then
October 3, 2007
After water quality and then lighting water circulation, in my opinion comes next.
Not just any water circulation though – you can’t just chuck powerheads left right and centre into the aquarium and turn it into a washing machine – you have to create the right water flow.
The water flow which you need to create depends upon the livestock you keep in the aquarium. If you are a fish only aquarist then the water circulation requirements are minimal. Corals, however are more demanding in water circulation for various reasons.
Years ago the only option which was available to saltwater aquarists was the powerhead and to be honest we had to be creative as to the ways we positioned these powerheads to achieve optimum results.
Nowadays as both manufacturers and aquarists have learnt more about the requirements of the animals we keep there are more options available to us.
There is one option which I believe stands out above the crowd though and that is one which is called closed loop.
Closed loop circulation is where the device which creates the waterflow is housed external to the aquarium, quite often beneath the aquarium, however it can be placed anywhere. Rigid or flexible tubing is connected to the device which connected to both the inlet and outlet of the device which both go to the aquarium.
A lot of aquarists who use closed loop circulation opt to drill the aquarium and use bulkhead connectors and taps to connect the external device to the aquarium, however you do not need to do this if you don’t want to – you can go up and over the edge of the aquarium if that is easier for you.
Basically what you are doing is allowing water to be pulled from the aquarium to the external device, we will use a external water pump for this example. This pump then pushes the water along the output back into the aquarium and whilst doing this pulls more water behind it.
Now here is the good thing. In a closed loop circulation system there is no air in the pipes which means that there is no head height plus as the pump is external to the aquarium there is no heat transfer from the pump to the aquarium water.
You can setup as many closed loop as you want however each one will require it’s own dedicated pump. A huge benefit of this is that with clever plumbing you can take water from the aquarium from exactly where you want it to be taken plus you can return it to an area in the tank where you want it to be returned to.
One thing I must point out though is that if you do decide to opt for a closed loop system then I would recommend that you install close off taps to both the inlet and outlet areas of the plumbing. Doing this will allow you to remove the pump it either it requires maintenance or replacement.
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The Peristaltic Pump and the Salt Water Aquarium
September 6, 2007
The peristaltic pump (peri pump for shortness) is a small very low flow pump originally designed for the medical profession. In that area it was used for the continuous careful and accurate administration of drugs etc.
The peri pump is usually square and quite small. There is a motor powered by normal mains voltage, which drives a central spindle. Attached to this spindle are three arms of equal length, and at the end of each arm is a roller. The three rollers obviously scribe a circle when rotating, and the rotation is very slow. The rollers roll over small flexible tubing, usually around ¼” (circa 5mm) in diameter, and this action causes any fluid within the tubing to be pushed in one direction. [Read more]
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There’s No Water Movement In My Reef
August 17, 2007
I came home this evening from a hard day at work, ready for the weekend, spend some quality time with the family and do the weekly maintenance on the aquarium.
Everything was all ok until I parked the car on the drive, got out and came into the house……
As soon as I came into the house the first thing I could hear was a beeping sound. I knew right from the very start what it was. It was the control unit from my Tunze wavebox. Sometimes it gets a slight block, the pump turns itself off to prevent damage and the alarm sounds.
No problem I thought I’ll just give it a quick once over and it will be fine. [Read more]
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