Aquarium Water Is Just Water Right - Wrong!

When keeping an aquarium - be this coldwater, freshwater, marine etc then there is one thing you are definitely going to need other than the aquarium - water!

Sound obvious doesn’t it?

Well let’s face it if we don’t put water in the aquarium nothing is going to survive is it - it’s not as if you can fill it with custard!

But water is just water - isn’t it?

The answer to this is both yes and no. It is correct that water is just water in the sense that it is wet however the substances which is in the water is what makes the water we want to use in our marine aquariums different.

In home water various additional substances are added to it in order to make it safe for human consumption and also various other aspects which get into the water by, for example, agricultural practice (phosphates, pesticides, nitrate etc).

It is for this very reason that the majority of aquarists use reverse osmosis water.

There are various other techniques which people also use - natural sea water, deionised water etc, however normally reverse osmosis is the water of choice for the majority of saltwater aquarists.

So what is reverse osmosis?

Basically a reverse osmosis unit is a device which is attached to the home water supply and this water is then pushed through a semi permeable membrane with pores so small that only water will pass through. It then also passes through other chambers where the majority of other substances are removed.

Generally the reverse osmosis process is 95% or higher in efficiency. The end result of the reverse osmosis process if water which is safe for aquarists to use in their saltwater aquariums.

There are a couple of things which need to be noted about a reverse osmosis unit however.

The first is the waste that a reverse osmosis system creates. For every five gallons of water pushed through a reverse osmosis unit, normally 4 gallons or so will go to waste. There are various factors which reduce the wastage in a reverse osmosis unit, the main one being the amount of calcium in your tap water. It has been noted that aquarists with soft tap water get a higher volume of usable water to waste ratio than those with hard water.

The second is chlorine. Chlorine is harmful to the membrane which is at the heart of the reverse osmosis unit. For this reason activated carbon chambers are provided for the tap water to pass through before the membrane is reached. These are normally called pre-filters or micro-filters. This pre-filter does require changing based upon the manufacturers recommendations. I recommend that you adhere to these recommendations as replacing the membrane will cost more. In a lot of instances, dependent upon the make and model of reverse osmosis unit purchased it is sometimes more cost effective to purchase a completely new unit.

The third is that the reverse osmosis membrane must constantly remain wet. If the membrane is allowed to dry out then it will become brittle and not function correctly. If this is allowed to happen all you will effectively be doing in sieving the water not purifying it.

Reverse Osmosis devices can be purchased nowadays for very reasonable prices and are available in numerous sizes. Size is normally determined in how much water is processed per hour, therefore a 50gph unit will create 50 gallons of reverse osmosis water per hour when used in optimal conditions.

It is definitely worthwhile investing in a reverse osmosis unit if you have a larger aquarium as the initial water fill and subsequent water changes will require more water, however for aquarists who have smaller aquariums it may not be cost effective to purchase a unit. Fortunately a lot of pet shops are now selling reverse osmosis water so if you have a smaller aquarium then it might actually be cheaper to simply purchase you water from your local fish shop.

As with anything in this hobby the unit does need to be maintained. It does not require a lot of maintenance but the pre-filter on the device does need to be changed at regular intervals. This is normally determined by the manufacturer and I would recommend that you follow their recommendations.

Another thing that I normally do is occasionally test the water from the r/o unit. I test both for nitrate and phosphate to ensure that the unit is running at optimum efficiency.

Another method which aquarists use is to test for total dissolved solids. Meters can be used for this which you can use to test the water produced. You can also purchase inline TDS meters which attach to the reverse osmosis unit. Some reverse osmosis units have these devices fitted.

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Tags: Aquarium Water, Equipment, marine-aquarium, reverse-osmosis, saltwater-aquarium, Water Quality

Cloud Cover - Should We Simulate It

I am one of those types of aquarists who believe that we should try and emulate nature in as many ways as possible. This statement does not mean that I believe that we should not utilise technology at all as I believe we should. After all the technology available makes it easier for us and makes it better for the livestock we keep in our aquariums.

There are areas however where I feel that we can utilise technology to be able to simulate nature.

One of these areas is cloud cover.

In the wild the majority, if not all areas do not have beautiful blue skies every single days. There are days where there is partial cloud cover, other days when there is total cloud cover and other days when there are storms.

Life on the reef is not always sunny yet in our aquariums they are.

The majority of aquariums utilise lighting which is on for a certain period of time and then off for a certain period of time.

But what about the cloud cover, what about the thunderstorms?

As said most aquariums have lights installed above the aquariums with a few pumps creating water flow in the aquarium. The lights provide bright blue sky and the pumps create flow which is chaotic but still rhythmic.

It is of my opinion that the water pumps should occasionally be moved so that the water flow becomes different. Perhaps at times other pumps should be added occasionally so that the water becomes chaotic for a time.

It is also my opinion that we should be creating cloud cover above our aquariums. There are some lighting manufacturers which allow for this in their design and the lighting dims and brighten to simulate cloud cover.

I think that there could be another way, trickier but perhaps cheaper. Basically this entails a motor which moves a device in between the light and the water at varying speeds to simulate clouds moving between the sun and the water. This device could be turned off when not required and could even be made to have a variable speed or perhaps a random motion.

Just an idea - whether it is viable or not I don’t know.

Will simulating cloud over assist in the welfare of our livestock. That is an answer I do not know yet if we do not try we will not advance. For all we know our corals could certainly start growing at twice the rate, we may see more coral spawning etc.

On the other hand we may see no difference or at worst our corals could grow slower!

If you have any experience in this area then I would love to hear about it.

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Tags: Aquarium Lighting, Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, Care, Equipment

Buffering Seawater

Marine livestock are used to very stable conditions. Much of this livestock comes from the wild reefs and there are literally cubic miles of seas and oceans to act as a sump. True, reefs can have problems created by mankind, such as industrial and agricultural run-off etc. This pollution has occurred over the short term, reef life has become used to very stable conditions over a very long period.

There are increasing numbers of locally produced corals and fish. These demonstrate a little more flexibility when faced with varying conditions because they have grown in an aquarium. Nevertheless, stability is a need for success with all livestock from whatever source.

The seawater is the area where this stability is of major concern, particularly in reef aquariums. In a fish only system the basic parameters need to be monitored, and in a reef a good few more. One of these is the buffering capacity of the seawater.

There isn’t any mumbo-jumbo on its way, the subject is straightforward and of importance to the reef aquarist.

A very quick look at pH first. pH is the measurement of acidity/alkalinity, and uses a scale of 0 to 14 (0 is acid and 14 is alkaline). Neutral is 7. Aquarium seawater can be between 8.0 and 8.4, with 8.2 or 8.3 often quoted as ‘perfect.’ So it can be seen that the seawater is on the alkaline side.

Life in the aquarium through its normal functions, feeding and the breaking down of dead algae etc puts pressure on the pH. This pressure continuously attempts to move the pH towards the acidic side of the scale. If the pressure has an effect on the seawater the pH will begin to drop. The pH will remain stable, at least for a time, because of the buffering capacity of the seawater. This ‘buffering capacity’ is also known as alkalinity and carbonate hardness. What happens is that the acids produced are negated by the ‘bases’, these are mainly bicarbonates and carbonates. Thus the pH remains stable.

The buffering capacity is finite. One way of boosting it is to complete regular seawater changes, though this in itself will not guarantee a continuing stable level. Sometimes it is necessary to engage supplements which are available from commercial sources. Supplementation should not be undertaken until it is certain the aquarium needs it. A slight fall in the level throughout a week or a fortnight which is repetitive is not a problem; this can be seen by the use of test kits. If the aquarist is having problems maintaining a steady pH or a proper level of calcium for example, scrutiny of the buffering capacity is in order. (Calcium should be in the area of 400 to 450 parts per million.)

In the aquarium it is considered beneficial to maintain the alkalinity a little above natural seawater levels because of the limited gallonage available. The level can be measured in meq/l or dKH. Any one is fine and the test kit will advise which scale is being used. They come to the same thing.

The levels recommended are 2.5 to 4 meq/l, which equates to 7 to 11 dKH. As said there isn’t a need to worry about the measurements, just go with what the test kit offers. Try and use a good test kit - questions on forums or to other local aquarists should produce recommendations.

The needs of a particular reef aquarium will soon be known and maintaining alkalinity becomes quite simple. Desirable algae, corals, snails etc will all benefit.

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, aquarium-additives, Care, saltwater-aquarium, Water Quality

DIY Protein Skimmers

The protein skimmer is considered to be an essential piece of equipment nowadays and assists greatly in the maintenance of high quality seawater. The device removes much of the dissolved organic material (DOM) that could accumulate. Anyone who has seen the dark stinky ‘yuk’ in a protein skimmer collection cup will never be without one.

All protein skimmers work on the same principle and manufacturers do not have any secret methods. What they do have is the expertise and mechanization to mass produce. There isn’t a need to buy a commercial unit however, provided the aquarist has some confidence in his/her DIY ability, and also has access to the required materials. Most have this access nowadays, if not locally through the internet.

If the aquarist takes a little time and carefully looks at a protein skimmer in a shop or at a friend’s it will be seen that they are basically simple. Seawater is moved from the aquarium and through a bubble chamber where the DOM is removed and collected in a cup. The method of moving the seawater and creating the bubbles vary.

This is not an attempt to advise that commercial products are poor - many are very good indeed and do the job well. However, they’re not the cheapest devices on the market! A basically competent DIYer can save money and still have a skimmer that does a good job, and also have the pride of ‘I did that.’ Most aquarists go for the commercial products and fair enough, but some…well, why not?

Seeing some of the skimmer plans for the first time can be a little daunting, but they’re not as bad as they first appear. Here’s a link and there is useful information here too in addition to plans:

http://saltaquariums.about.com/od/diyskimmerplans/DIY_Protein_Skimmer_Plans.htm

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, Care, DIY, Equipment, Protein Skimmer

Remember To Test The Output From Your RO Unit

Not more testing! Those aquarists with a reef aquarium will no doubt feel that they do enough already.

The testing here is not of the aquarium seawater, it’s what goes into the aquarium in the form of routine seawater changes and evaporation top-ups. These routine seawater changes are designed to assist in maintaining high quality by replacing at least partially trace elements and ‘freshening’ generally. Taking this into account there doesn’t want to be anything being put into the aquarium that could be detrimental to it.

Some aquarists use tap water and hopefully have tested it to see if there is an excess of nitrate and/or phosphate etc. If there is the advice is to use an RO (reverse osmosis) unit. This device is a filter, where fresh tap water is forced through a semi-permeable membrane. Very nearly only pure water is allowed to pass, the purity of the output is usually 95 to 98%.

The RO unit in action is simple to use and requires very little maintenance. Now and again at the manufacturer’s recommended periods the carbon filter is changed and also the sediment filter though this can sometimes be cleaned. The time span for this maintenance depends on usage but can be very many months.

There are tests that need to be performed on occasion of the output from the RO unit, again not very often. The tests are usually nitrate and phosphate and the check is done on the purified output from the unit. One occasion when the test should be done is when the carbon filter (and to a lesser extent the sediment filter) have not been changed for a while, and the running period is longer than the manufacturer’s recommendation. This is because the carbon filter is there to protect the membrane from chorine. Chlorine can damage the membrane and reduce its efficiency, permitting unwanted substances to pass through it. So it needs to be tested to be sure that it remains fully effective.

Another occasion when these tests need to be done is if the filter has been allowed to dry out. A membrane can be damaged in these circumstances again permitting unwanted contaminants to pass.

If the aquarist does the simple maintenance at the periods recommended by the manufacturer - these periods are often based on gallons of purified water produced – then it is unlikely that there will be a problem. If the membrane becomes less than fully efficient it is often best to purchase a new RO unit, as the membrane makes up the major part of the price.

As with other areas attention to maintenance will maintain peak efficiency.

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, Care, Equipment, reverse-osmosis, Water Quality

The Calcium Reactor - When To Decide If You Need One Or Not

There is a variety of equipment to assist in the maintenance of a marine aquarium. Some are essential such as the heater/thermostat, others are supportive for example the auto top-up system. The calcium reactor is often supportive, but in some circumstances it can be argued that it is essential.

First of all, what is a calcium reactor? This device is a means of getting calcium into the seawater. This is achieved by slowly moving the seawater through a calcium rich media in an acidic environment. The device is attached to two inputs, first seawater and second carbon dioxide. The seawater is as said fed into a media area where the gas is present. The gas is injected under careful control, usually a bubble count. The acidic environment created causes the media to dissolve and the seawater carries calcium into the aquarium. The flow rate is slow, counted in drips per second or similar.

The amount of calcium demand is the key to the usefulness and effectiveness of using a calcium reactor. There is a need to measure the calcium in the aquarium, so the only way to know is to test. Testing will let the aquarist know what calcium presence there is, but what needs to be replaced for that which is used? The answer lies in doing an ongoing weekly test as in this way the calcium demand of the aquarium can be ascertained. When the amount at the end of the period is subtracted from the amount at the beginning an indication of the demand is obtained.

If the aquarist is running a fish only aquarium then a calcium reactor is not required. If the system is a reef then the aquarium size has an effect.

A small aquarium will house a smaller reef which in turn will support less corals. So the calcium demand is going to be lower. It is more than likely that a soft coral reef will need little or even no supplementation as these corals have a low demand. A hard coral reef such as SPS will have a higher demand.

A large aquarium will obviously usually house a large reef with many more corals. In this case, though soft corals have a low demand for calcium, because of the number the need is going to be greater and supplementation may well be required. It is generally safe to state that a large reef with many hard corals such as SPS will need supplementation.

Having determined the amount of calcium loss over a week, the aquarist can now determine the best way of replacing it. There are two main ways, one is to use commercially produced supplements that are available in liquid or powder form or a calcium reactor. The choice will be determined by cost and convenience.

On the small reef, the soft coral one, the demand as said will be low. In this case it is likely to be financially sensible to use a commercially produced supplement. With the low demand the supplement is going to last for many uses and therefore will not be an excessively expensive option. If it is a hard coral reef the demand will be higher and the aquarist will need to consider how long a supplement package will last and the cost involved, and then make a decision about using a reactor.

The large reef if a soft coral one may still have a calcium demand that can be sensibly met by a purchased supplement. The hard coral reef however is going to need a much larger amount and so only perhaps three or four doses will be available for each commercial supplement purchase. This is going to prove expensive as time progresses.

Having done the tests the aquarist is aware of the calcium demand per week, so a decision can be made. For the large reef, certainly the hard coral type, it will be better to employ a calcium reactor. Even though routine seawater changes are done the calcium shortfall will not be made up and package supplementation will be expensive and impractical. For the smaller aquarium the aquarist may decide to employ a calcium reactor for the hard coral reef, even though package supplementation is an option, as the reactor is convenient and once purchased less expensive to use.

The lowest guideline for an SPS reef calcium level is 400 parts per million (ppm), but it is usual to maintain a level of around 420 to 450ppm. A little rise and fall in the level seems not to be a problem. This rise and fall will occur when weekly supplementation is employed using a commercial product, but is less or removed with the use of a reactor as the device is applied continually or more regularly.

It is important when using a commercial supplement or a reactor to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. The commercial supplement is straightforward but some initial additional attention to testing is needed with the reactor. How fast is the drip rate? The faster it is the more calcium is entering the aquarium. Adjustment should permit the calcium requirement to be met. Attention must also be given to the amount of gas entering the media chamber, this is usually indicated by a bubble rate.

Even though testing to establish the calcium demand has been done in the early weeks, the final demand cannot be discovered until the reef is fully stocked with corals. The ongoing demand will also vary to an extent. It is good husbandry to continue testing for the calcium level so that changes can be catered for.

Maintaining an acceptable calcium level will prove to be very worthwhile, the corals particularly hard types will benefit and also small reef life such as shrimps and snails.

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Tags: Aquarium Water, Calcium Reactor, Equipment, kalkwasser, water additives, Water Quality

Aquarium Equipment - The Peristaltic Pump

Aquarists use different types of equipment to assist in the running of their aquariums. These can be very important ‘must haves’ such as a protein skimmer and circulation pumps, or labour saving devices such as an automated evaporation top-up device or calcium reactor.

One piece of labour saving equipment is the peristaltic pump. This device originated in the medical profession where medications needed to be applied to patients in precise but low amounts over time. The device has been found to be useful in the marine aquarium hobby and there are models available manufactured for this purpose.

The units vary in size, some perhaps 1″ (circa 25mm) in thickness by perhaps 4″ (circa 1.2mm) square. The ones destined for use with an aquarium are usually constructed of plastic, often with a clear panel on one side. The clear panel enables the owner to see the flexible tube inside.

The unit is powered by a small electric motor which to all intents and purposes is silent. This drives a shaft which revolves very slowly. As it revolves it usually drives three arms and on the end of each arm is a roller. A flexible tube about ¼” (circa 7mm) in diameter enters at one side of the unit and exits from the same side but the other corner. The flexible tube goes in a circle within the unit. When running, the rollers which are moving slowly in a circle compress the flexible tube and force any liquid present forwards in the same direction.

The pumps can be obtained in various outputs and with either static or variable speed. The static speed ones are of course less expensive. They run very cheaply on mains electricity and can be used with electric timers. Fitting them is simplicity itself, most being fitted upright in a convenient location out of sight but accessible and away from the danger of getting wet from seawater. The intake end of the tube should be fitted with a filter which is easily constructed - a small piece of fine filtration sponge with a narrow hole is the often used method. The outlet end of the tube could need holding down with a sucker or small weight as it might tend to float to a horizontal position.

The aquarist can make use of the pumps in several ways. Sometimes it is difficult to adjust the flow rate of an anti-nitrate filter (a de-nitrator) and a pump could be selected to move seawater through the filter, thus solving the problem. Or, provided the aquarist knows the demand of the aquarium, supplements could be applied for the appropriate period per day to meet the need. A watch would need to be kept that mixtures remained viable, that is did not de-mix over time, and also that clogging did not occur.

One area that the pump cannot be used for is timed feeding. This is a great shame as it is ideally suited and could successfully dose an aquarium accurately according to the demand of the livestock. So why can’t it be used? It is simply because the food goes off. The pump needs a small reservoir so that timed feeding can occur. During this time the liquefied food morsels could fall to the bottom of the reservoir, though the problem could be avoided by a simple stirring system. As said though, when waiting to be used the food deteriorates. Experiments have been made with refrigeration devices, all by aquarists but as far as I know a successful solution has not been found. If feeding could be done with the aid of the pump then more natural feeding over the daylight hours could be accomplished, rather than the one or two heavier meals a day that usually occurs.

There is very little to go wrong with a peristaltic pump. The item to watch is the flexible tube inside the pump in the region where it is compressed. Over time it starts to fail and needs replacement. The tube is not expensive and so a length can be kept as spare. Some manufacturers supply this spare tubing with a new pump.

So if the aquarist is having difficulty in supplying a correct flow rate or wants to apply precise amounts of liquid to the aquarium a peristaltic pump could be considered.

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Aquarium Water, aquarium-pump, Care, Equipment, Water Movement

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