Creating good water movement in the aquarium is required in order for the [tag-self]aquarium filtration[/tag-self] (if live rock is used) to be both efficient and effective, for the correct oxygenation to occur and for the transport of both food and waste around the aquarium. A lot of aquarists simply utiliseRead more →
Posts Tagged Water
I thought a note on the parameters for seawater in a reef aquarium might be useful, so here they are.
Please note that these are guideline numbers (apart from toxic items such as ammonia) – I can hear aquarists saying that theirs is different and their reef is fantastic!Read more →
pH is one of the parameters that is important in a marine aquarium, and is therefore checked regularly. It could be that the pH is lower than the aquarist desires. There are a few things that can be checked and tried. This may raise the level sufficiently.
The first move is to consider at what time of day the water test was undertaken. If this was shortly after the lighting turned on, the low reading may be because during the night there is a tendency in some systems for the pH to fall. Therefore carry out a further test say an hour before the lights turn off. The pH may well measure higher. If desired, algae (Caulerpa) can be planted below the display aquarium and lit on an opposite cycle to the display aquarium. This will help counter the pH drop.Read more →
The reef aquarist in particular is always trying to maintain high quality seawater. So is the fish only aquarist, though the quality demand is not quite so vital.
The aquarist test the seawater parameters as a matter of course. Most aquarists find that all is well, or can adjust to remedy an incorrect reading. There are aquarists though who use high quality salt and are particular about the maintenance. Despite this, they find that problems arise, often in the from of phosphate or nitrate. They then obtain filters to deal with these, creating more expense and more maintenance. There is nothing wrong with getting rid of undesired substances with specific filtration methods.
The question is, where are those undesired substances coming from. As said, if the aquarist is doing everything correctly, including feeding, it is unlikely that it is being generated within the aquarium. So where does it come from.Read more →
It seems very reasonable doesn’t it. We keep seawater aquariums and so why not put natural seawater in them. It saves money too, no more buying those expensive buckets of dry salt mix.
The first consideration is availability. Seawater is heavy, around 10lbs per gallon. If the aquarium is fairly large the amount required will be many gallons, much more if it is an initial fill. Lots of large containers, all suitably safe for seawater, plus a vehicle that can safely transport the bulk and weight. Most aquarists live away from the sea, and the dry salt mix is the obvious way to go.Read more →
In a saltwater aquarium stability is one of the aquarists prime concerns and numerous devices are uses to measure various aspects of the aquarium.
One of the aspects which aquarists measure is salinity/specific gravity – ie the amount of salt in the water.Read more →
There is an area which I belive at lot of aquarists either do not know they need to do or in some case forget to do.
Aquarists should test the water in the aquarium on a regular basis to ensure that everything is correct and stability is mainteined, however there is another area which needs to be tested periodically.Read more →
The new or not so new aquarist may be puzzled by the repeated advice to use purified tap water. So tap water is purified, use that. No.
The water coming out of the tap is purified by the local water authority. Regulations advise the amount of additional substances that are permitted, and, hopefully, the water authority meets that criteria. However, this is for human consumption. We can tolerate an amount of nitrate, phosphate, heavy metal such as copper etc. Obviously we can, we drink it, and clean our teeth with it. Our children do likewise. So what is this need for purification of the tap water for use in a salt water aquarium?Read more →
We all know that the fish and corals we keep are salt water creatures. That’s why we buy those expensive packets or buckets of dry salt mix.
Fish only or reef aquaria are normally kept at a specific gravity (SG) of 1022 to 1026. It has been said that it is advantageous to keep a fish only system at 1022, as it is claimed that certain pathogens do not do well at a lower SG. Fish can be treated for some infections by lowering the SG even more. Reef aquaria are normally kept at 1024 to 1026, this seems to be the usual.Read more →
Maintaining good water quality in any aquarium, especially a saltwater aquarium is essential. Testing your water parameters is something which should be part of your regular maintenance schedule.
However, although you test for them do you know what each one is for and why it is important – quite a few people don’t and just test the water (which is a good thing) but in my opinion it is also good to understand what each one does.Read more →