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Dosing Kalkwasser

December 4, 2008

KalkwasserKalkwasser, otherwise known as limewater, is actually calcium hydroxide. Kalkwasser is a very fine powder and is normally introduced to the aquarium with the top-up water. There are realistically two methods to add kalkwasser to the aquarium, these are by a ‘kalk reactor/stirrer’ or by using what is called the drip method.

The drip method is where the kalkwasser is mixed with some prepared top-up water. It is important when mixing kalkwasser that it be mixed slowly, the reason for this is that it is imperative that as little air as possible gets into the top-up water. If too much air gets into the water then the kalkwasser will turn into calcium carbonate. Once the top-up water is prepared it should be left to sit for at least 2-3 hours so that any sediment can settle to the bottom of the container. The mixture which is left above the sediment is what will be introduced to the aquarium.

It is best to siphon this mixture out and dispose of the sediment. After the mixture has been siphoned out it is ready for use.

The kalk reactor/stirrer is where kalkwasser is introduced into a sealed chamber, within this chamber is a stirring device which mixes the kalkwasser and water. Water is pumped into the reactor normally by the use of a dosing/peristaltic pump and this water because of pressure forces water rich in kalkwasser into the aquarium.

Obviously the kalk reactor is easier than the manual method but both methods do work.

It is important when dosing kalkwasser not to dose it quickly. The reason is that water mixed with kalkwasser is of a very high pH. Therefore introducing it too quickly can alter the pH level of the aquarium water. To get round this problem you could either use a pH monitor to control the kalk reactor, or drip the mixture into the aquarium at a rate of about 1 drip per second (always drip into a high flow area). It is also worthwhile keeping an eye on the pH levels by testing the water using a pH water test kit.

There are both advantages and disadvantage in using kalkwasser in an aquarium. The disadvantages are twofold. One is that if you do not use a kalk reactor it takes time to mix the solution, the other is that because of the kalkwasser being added with the top up water you may not be able to introduce enough to maintain a steady level of calcium. The advantage, though, is that kalkwasser is very rich in calcium and can, if used correctly, maintain a high level.

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Can Calcareous Deposits Effect Equipment?

April 10, 2008

Maintenance of a marine aquarium system, reef or fish only, is accepted as very important to its ongoing health. Water changes are done, filters cleaned and general observations of the interior made. Usually all is well, but sometimes occurrences arise which need dealing with.

For example, the aquarist may note that the output from a canister filter, used for bio or mechanical purposes, has dropped. This indicates that the media is in need of cleaning. Similarly, a powerhead used for circulation may have reduced output, or a return pump from a sump the same. It may even be that the device has stopped completely.

In the case of reduced flow the aquarist cleans the media or the pump intake mesh and no change occurs. In the case of a pump stopping completely, the aquarist may believe the pump has failed and start looking for a replacement.

True, there may be a problem with the pump itself. But before the decision to replace is finally made it is worth checking for calcareous deposits within the pump or tubing.

Calcareous deposits can form on the shaft of the pump impellor. This is the propeller like object that spins and drives the seawater. They are usually a thin shaft, around which at one end is a cylindrical ’bulb’ that is magnetised. At the other end is the propeller. On all pumps there is access to this object, which can be carefully withdrawn from its housing. When withdrawn it can be inspected, and it is usually obvious if deposits are causing difficulty for the device to spin. Turn it with the fingers – if it is stiff it needs cleaning, if it won’t turn cleaning will normally free it.

To clean, scrape the shaft with great care with a knife. Be very careful not to create additional grooves or indentations in the shaft. Deposits usually come off quite easily. When cleaned, test for spin again and, if all is well, re-assemble the device which can be re-started.

If the deposits are particularly resistant, then the impellor can be immersed in vinegar, as this will over time dissolve the deposits. This could take many hours in some cases, perhaps overnight or a day.

When this has all been done and the device re-started, it is possible that the flow rate has not increased. This can happen with some devices (such as canister filters) which move the seawater through tubes. In this case, the tube internal diameter needs to be checked. The check should be done initially at the point where the seawater leaves the powered device and enters the tube. Deposits may be found within the tube, and they can be poked and scraped clear. This should solve the problem.

Having done all of these checks it may be that flow rates are still lower than they should be, or the pump still doesn’t run. (To make sure there isn’t an electricity supply problem where a pump doesn’t run, try changing the fuse.) At this point the indications are that there is a fault with the pump. Check the impellor propeller blades – any broken or damaged? If so, a new impellor could be the answer. If not, then it looks like the pump unit needs replacing. Don’t forget the guarantee period if the device is fairly new.

Calcareous deposit problems can also be implicated in the often termed ‘old tank syndrome.’ This is where an aquarium system is getting on a bit in years, and the aquarist is not as keen as earlier on and doesn’t do maintenance and observations as well as in earlier days. The flow rates within the aquarium slow down, flow through a sump might be less etc. The corals are not as magnificent as they were. The system is, in other words, in decline. It could only be some attention to detail that is needed.

The problem of deposits on equipment is not widespread. It is probably more likely in hard seawater with its calcium etc content than in freshwater, so it is something to bear in mind. Check the efficiency of power heads and pumps during routine maintenance.

For safety, always disconnect an electrical device from the power supply before working on it.

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Magnesium – Why Is It Required In A Reef Tank

October 8, 2007

Magnesium is an element in the aquarium which is often neglected, however it is very important.

The topic of magnesium can be a very large and at times complex subject however in this short post I hope to provide only the information you need at present so you will know why magnesium is required and what levels you need to aim at maintaining it at. Read more

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Aquarium Additives and Soft Corals

August 1, 2007

Keeping a seawater aquarium nowadays is a generally straightforward affair. Provided the design and setting up is satisfactory and the aquarist does the necessary periodic maintenance properly, the aquarium will give pleasure for a long period.

Commercial seawater mixes are good overall. The mix will provide adequate levels of elements in the seawater, but checks should still be made, particularly when the aquarium is matured and settling and onwards, to ensure that important parameters are as they should be.

The levels required depend of course on what is being kept. The fish only aquarist need hardly bother with any additives, just ensure that water quality tests are done (nitrates, pH etc) as these measurements are important, and action needs to be taken if anything is amiss. If [tag-tec]aquarium water changes[/tag-tec] are done it is likely that the seawater will remain fine, but maybe after a time from the initial mix end up, for example, with a fairly low calcium count. Alkalinity could also be low. None of this particularly matters if the fish are healthy and general tests are acceptable.

The aquarist who keeps a reef needs to pay more attention. No matter if there are fish present, the corals and other life create a need for closer attention. A soft or hard or mixed coral reef needs calcium, for example.

Soft corals do not demand high levels of calcium but it is worthwhile to maintain a fair level as there is a demand. I have always kept a notebook with each aquarium I have owned. I have a ‘thing’ for [tag-tec]soft corals[/tag-tec] so they are the type I have always stocked. Looking back at my records, calcium has generally been between 350 and 400 ppm. I did an experiment years ago with soft corals and calcium. Though I kept dates etc it cannot be deemed scientific, but should be considered as anecdotal.

I increased calcium by addition to 450 ppm for a period of 3 months, a period lengthy enough to have an effect. Routine water changes were regular at 10% weekly. The calcium level did vary a little but not much. I could detect no change in the health or growth rate of any coral. The calcium level was allowed to fall again and the notebook indicates no mishaps or worries arose. I know of a soft coral reef where the calcium level is a little over 300 ppm, The soft corals show no problems. If the aquarist wishes to raise calcium levels, it should be done slowly. There are commercial preparations that can be purchased and the aquarist should adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions in line with the net gallons in the aquarium. If the aquarist is serious about maintaining calcium levels and has a large aquarium, the use of a commercial [tag-tec]aquarium additive[/tag-tec] may be too costly and impractical. In this case consideration could be given to the use of a calcium reactor. If calcium levels are raised then attention needs to be given to alkalinity.

Please follow this link, an explanation is given about the relationship:

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm

Also see ‘Alkalinity – What Is It and How Is It Controlled?‘ under Water Testing on this site (ie. Aquaristsonline).

With soft corals, some experts suggest the addition of iodine. Iodine in natural seawater is at very low levels, 0.06 ppm. As said, very low. Overdosing must be avoided when using commercial preparations. Again, strictly adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions. One problem with iodine supplementation is that, at least to my knowledge, there isn’t a reliable test kit available. If this is still accurate, the aquarist who is supplementing iodine according to instructions, and also doing, quite correctly, routine water changes, will not know if the iodine levels are rising, stable, or dropping. I would suggest not supplementing, and see if the corals remain healthy and growing. If they are, don’t supplement iodine.

There are commercial preparations available that claim to supplement important multiple trace elements. There is no dispute with that claim. However, if you feel you must supplement with one of these preparations, for example because activated carbon is being used, be aware of what is going into the seawater and also the reason why. If the manufacturer is worth his salt (no pun intended) the instructions will generally advise what and why.

Remember, with any supplementation be aware as far as possible of the levels in the seawater. This is not always possible with ‘trace element’ concoctions. Do not overdose, a little extra does not do a bit more good. Some aquarists advise that ‘if you can’t measure it, don’t use it.’

It is best to watch the soft coral reef, observing how the corals expand and grow. If all is well, routine water changes may be the only action required.

Finally, on any reef, soft coral ones included, there is normally more life than just the corals – snails, tiny shrimps, decorative algae and the like. Having increased and controlled levels of for example alkalinity can enhance the production of this additional life, all adding to the wonder and complexity of the aquarium reef.

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