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Disease!

July 24, 2009

The very word can strike fear into any marine aquarist. Diseases, particularly ‘velvet’ and ‘white spot’ are real threats.

The threat can be minimized of course. Careful selection of fish is the initial way, being careful to ensure the selected ones are as ‘clean’ as they should be. Other intended livestock should also be carefully inspected.

A second line of defence is the quarantine tank where any disease can be treated and cured before it is introduced to the main display aquarium where it creates a threat to other livestock. Strangely, most marine aquarists do not make use of quarantine instead introducing their livestock direct. This is taking a chance as dealing with disease especially in a reef system could be difficult – difficult because copper, the number one treatment for certain diseases, is deadly to corals.

The question of disease and its treatment is wide and quite varied. Most marine books have a section on disease which can be of assistance.

Here are two videos which deal with the subject, they are good quality and actions are clearly explained. A large part of the videos deals with cleaning up the aquarium prior to medication. Obviously the instructions on the medication container must be properly followed relative to the net gallonage of the aquarium. Finally, as already mentioned copper should not be used in a reef system – if there is any doubt check the medication manufacturer’s instructions and suggestions.

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How Can You Diagnose Fish Disease?

March 19, 2009

Reading marine aquarium potential disease pages in a book could be enough to make an aquarist’s hair stand on end! Various problems appear to be lurking ready to inflict doom on the unsuspecting livestock.

It doesn’t ever have to be a problem – disease that is. The advance in collection methods and aquarium husbandry has been high over the last decade and there must be many aquarists who have never faced disease problems. It must be said though that the problems could still strike. It has been stated many times that the major defence is with the aquarist, from the moment he/she goes into the LFS to the moment the fish is released in the display aquarium observation and proper procedures should be observed. Even if all is as it should be, there remains the possibility of problems.

The good news is that most diseases can be dealt with successfully nowadays if the disease can be attacked. The bad news is relevant to the latter part of the last sentence. For example, copper is a prime treatment of certain parasitic problems and copper is also deadly to invertebrates. So if the aquarist runs a reef system copper is not the choice treatment.

Observation of fish stock should be a daily occurrence. This is easily achieved as the aquarist will usually feed daily and the fish are easily seen. If one doesn’t come out to feed there isn’t a need to immediately think there is a problem, but a warning bell should ring. Next time, is the fish there? If not, what’s going on?

If fish are seen to be swimming strangely such as darting about, apparently unable to hold a normal position in the seawater, lethargic, breathing more quickly than usual, or rubbing (flicking) against rocks then the aquarist should first of all test the seawater. Do an ammonia and nitrite test, followed by a pH test. If all is normal and the seawater is of its usual high quality then move on. If there is something wrong with the seawater then deal with it – a larger than usual seawater change or changes will dilute any ammonia or nitrite presence. Make sure nothing has happened to damage the bio-filter, for example if a canister filter is in use they are driven by an electric motor which could have slowed or stopped. If the pH is low is the seawater circulation as it should be? If it isn’t then oxygen intake could have been affected. Fix the offending article such as a powerhead etc.

So overall the seawater is the first suspect and it will not take much time to confirm this one way or another. If there isn’t a problem with the seawater then attention returns to the fish.

Correct disease identification is very important. It will not be of much use applying medication if it is the wrong sort. Also, applying a wide range of medications in the hope that one of them will do the trick is not a good idea; it will cause additional stress to the fish and probably exacerbate the situation. The aquarist should carefully observe the fish and try to see if there is anything unusual about them. There could be cloudy eyes, torn fins or little white/grey dots on the fish etc.

Identification of potential diseases of fish is a large and detailed subject and not suitable for this text. As has been said before there isn’t any need for an aquarist to be a scientist or engineer, but there is a requirement for the basics to be understood.

One of these basics is to be prepared, like a good scout. So what there should be, along with the test kits etc is a good marine aquarium book. Usually it isn’t a great deal of help going on the internet as to obtain relevant information the disease identity needs to be known. Asking for assistance and advice on a forum is good normally but in this case there is likely to be more than one identity suggestion as some disease indications are relevant to more than one problem, and in addition time is passing. Some problems need reasonably speedy action.

Picking a suitable book is easy as content can be ascertained in advance. The bonus is that there will be a lot of information relevant to the marine hobby other than diseases, so the aquarist will have a source of information literally at his/her finger tips.

So basically the routine is:

Observation – should be the habit daily.
Seawater – is the quality as it should be? Test and find out.
Identification = the most difficult. Having a good book which contains a diseases section is the best way forward. It will also detail suggested remedies.

On this website (aquaristsonline.com) are texts which are relevant to fish diseases:

Click on ‘Articles’ (top of page) then click at left hand side on ‘Aquarium Care’. Then click the article ‘Controlling Fish Tank Diseases.’

Again on ‘Articles’ and again under ‘Aquarium Care’, click on ‘An Aquaristic Nightmare.’

Click on ‘Blog’ (top of page). Then click on ‘Livestock’ then on ‘Fish’. Scroll down, there are some relevant to disease.

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Fish Diseases

December 10, 2008

When we become sick we are able to tell other people where it hurts, what is wrong etc. Fish however do not have that ability therefore it is up to the aquarist to attempt to identify potential problems as soon as possible and provide the relevant treatment as and when it is required to do so.

As both myself and John state again and again – stability, patience and research is the aquarists key to success. If this is performed then the risk of disease is reduced. It is not removed altogether but is reduced.

Marine fish of every type are said to carry some type of disease or other as the majority of animals do. All it takes is something to trigger it.

The most common trigger for diseases is stress. Stress is quite often un-noticed by the inexperienced aquarist. Unbeknown to them a disease is starting to show itself. If not identified and diagnosed quickly enough then this could cause trouble in the aquarium as well as distress to the fish in question.

What happens is that when the fish is placed under stress the immune system of the fish weakens therefore the fishes susceptibility to disease increases.

The majority of home aquariums have a low pathogen count present – normally the immune system of the fish will prevent these pathogens from causing problems.

However when the immune system is weakened the risk increases. There are various ways in which stress can be placed upon the fish:

  • General water quality is not good enough
  • Fluctuation in parameters, heat etc
  • Bullying and/or territory protection from other tank inhabitants
  • Overstocking
  • The aquarium in which the fish are kept is too small for the fishes needs
  • Limited hiding places
  • Reduced oxygen in the water
  • Incorrect feeding techniques
  • Shock

When the fish is caught in the ocean and is transported to the shop via the dealer we of course have no control over that but hopefully the fish will be placed under as minimal amount of stress as possible.

We do have control over the stress caused to the fish from the moment a decision is made to purchase it.

From this point forward we have the ability to be able to reduce the amount of stress the fish is placed under. We can ensure that it is transported correctly, quarantined correctly, acclimatised correctly, is not with incompatible fish in the aquarium etc.

There is a keyword in the above sentence which I believe is very important and that is the word quarantine. It surprises me to this day how few people actually use a quarantine tank on their aquarium.

Once the fish is in the display aquarium it should be monitored closely especially during the first few weeks to ensure that it is not being bullied, feeding well, active etc however during your regular maintenance you should ensure that you check each and every fish in the aquarium. If you spot a problem early enough then it is much easier to deal with.

When you study your fish’s actions from arrival you will quickly see what is normal and what is not.

When observing your fish watch carefully for the following:

  • Fish not feeding
  • Fish scratching against the substrate and/or decor
  • A normally active fish is subdued
  • A normally subdued fish is active
  • Fish not swimming correctly
  • Fish at the water surface gasping
  • Visible marks on the body of the fish

Of course you can perform all of this and still get a disease in the aquarium however as said looking after the aquarium correctly, choosing and caring for fish correctly will reduce the possibility of an outbreak.

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Controlling Fish Tank Diseases

November 13, 2008

Disease in the aquarium is one of the main fears of aquarists. Once the presence of a disease is known the aquarist’s stress level shoots up and quite understandably so – at the worst there could be a full aquarium wipe-out.

When the word disease is mentioned most straightaway think of fish, but it is not only fish that could have problems, it is corals too.

I’ve not got any magic formula that will ensure that disease will never appear. What all aquarists do have available to them is straightforward common sense.

The very first requirement in building a wall to defend against disease is the aquarium system itself. Design in other words. Everything should be dedicated to the overall needs of the system, and that is stability and seawater quality. They go hand in hand anyway so it is likely that one will give the other. The heaters employed should be able to maintain the temperature with a low variation, say + or – 1 deg F. The powerheads that drive the seawater circulation should turn it over sufficiently; the guidelines are around 10 times the net gallonage of the display aquarium per hour for fish only and soft coral systems, and around 20 times the net gallonage of the display aquarium per hour for hard coral (SPS) systems. In addition, the seawater movement should not be linear, but should be random and chaotic. Sufficient seawater movement will also ensure that there is enough oxygen – a very important point. There should be a quality protein skimmer that is known to be capable of handling the net gallonage of the system. The aquarist could consider the use of a UV filter, which will kill or severely damage parasites exposed to the light (some use them, some not, but they are useful though not a complete answer in themselves).

The bio-filter, that is the filter that houses the indispensable bacteria that rid the aquarium of toxins (ammonia and nitrite), should be efficient and of an adequate size to deal with the aquarium bio-load. There should be sufficient live rock if that is the aquarist’s choice, and it should be of sufficient quality. In a reef system the reef structure is often completely constructed of live rock and so should be adequate, particularly as the fish load is less to preserve seawater quality. However, in a fish only system a full reef may not be constructed so care needs to be taken to ensure the quantity is adequate, particularly with the normally larger fish load.

If the aquarist uses a canister or similar as the bio-filter then it needs to be large enough to cope with the size of the system and its bio-load – in other words, it must be capable of moving sufficient seawater through enough bio-media.

In the case of a reef system, the lighting should be adequate for the corals, giving an adequate spectrum and intensity, and consideration should be given to the depth of the aquarium with regard to light penetration.

When the aquarium is up and running, the aquarist must be sure that the bio-filter is ‘mature’, that is, it has sufficient bacteria present to deal with the bio-load. The bio-load itself should be increased slowly, particularly with fish, giving time for the bacteria to adjust to the work facing them.

Selecting livestock is the next line of defence. When corals are selected they should be judged very carefully when still in the sale aquarium, and they should be compatible with the system and their intended neighbours. The same applies to fish – before purchase the aquarist needs to ensure they will be compatible with the aquarium system type (reef or fish only). There are texts available advising what to look for, including on aquaristsonline.com.

The stocking level of the reef or fish only system should not be exceeded. Temptation could arise ‘down the line’ when all is well. Why not put one or two more fish in, what harm could it do? It could be a step too far, beginning a slow deterioration in seawater quality and an increase in aggression among fish or corals.

Ongoing quality husbandry, that is maintenance of the system, is essential. Maintenance is sometimes the first thing to deteriorate, because all looks well and missing this or that just once or twice surely won’t matter! It’s the beginning of the slippery slope to problems including potential disease because of diminishing environmental quality and should be avoided. Routine seawater changes should be completed. The protein skimmer should be cleaned at least once, better twice, a week. Mechanical filter media should be cleaned. Pumps and powerheads should be checked to ensure continuing adequate output. Activated carbon, anti-phosphate resin and the like should be renewed on time. The same goes for lighting tubes or bulbs.

Feeding should be adequate for the dietary requirements of the livestock. Feeding should not be overdone – overfeeding is one of the causes of poor seawater quality which could and often does mean trouble.

The major concern in anti-disease efforts should be prevention, the best control of all. If the livestock are not stressed because everything is supporting a high quality environment the danger of a disease outbreak is reduced. There is the danger of a disease problem being introduced with livestock, and it is the aquarist’s knowledge and careful eye when selecting inmates that is the best guard against this.

The marine hobby sometimes seems complicated with all the equipment available, the different systems and the different livestock that could be introduced. The basics however are not complicated and only require a little effort to understand and follow.

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Fish Disease – I Think I’ve Seen It – What Do I Do?

August 23, 2008

This is not a text on the treatment of fish disease, but hopefully a suggestion about how treatment could be more accurate and successful.

The fear of aquarists – and that is any aquarist, experienced or newcomer – is to have a disease problem strike their aquarium. It can cause an aquarist to give up the hobby because of the heart-rending loss of livestock, maybe a total wipeout. At best, even if the disease is treated properly and successfully, the period is very stressful.

So what does the aquarist do? What are the first actions to be taken?

The aquarist is down at heart because all the recommended procedures have been followed: great care has been taken in selection, transportation, introduction and ongoing maintenance. Seawater quality is high and kept that way, but disease has appeared.

The very first action that an aquarist should take is in anticipation of a disease problem. That doesn’t sound like a positive way forward at all, but it is. The aquarist is readying his/her knowledge and defences from the word go. Disease is not expected, but it is best to be prepared.

The very best thing an aquarist can do, even before livestock is obtained, is to obtain a high quality marine hobby book. This book will contain all sorts of information including aquarium filtration, aquarium lighting and other aquarium necessities. It will also contain sections on fish, and possibly further sections on corals and shrimps etc. It will also contain a section on disease, and it is this latter item that is of importance here. The disease section should contain pictures to assist with identification and, of course, treatment procedures. There isn’t a need to become an expert on fish diseases, just to be aware of the major ones and how they could be identified.

If a potential disease problem strikes that is not the time to be trawling the internet trying to obtain information on what it might be and how to treat it. There should be minimal delay when treating disease, so having a book handy is valuable. It is even more valuable if the book has been read in total. Aquarists will certainly read the interesting bits on filtration etc but may not be so keen on reading potential negative subjects. It is good to read these though, as it assists the aquarist when observing the fish so that a problem is more likely to be detected.

If a potential problem is observed then the last thing the aquarist should do is dose the aquarium with a remedy as it ‘could do the trick.’ If luck is at home that day then yes it could, but just as likely, or more likely, the fish will be stressed by inappropriate medications. The aquarist should keep calm and observe very closely the livestock in question. Previous knowledge from a book will assist here, as what is required is an accurate diagnosis. Taking a little time to be sure is well worthwhile, as then of course the appropriate medication can be administered. Though disease does need to be dealt with without undue delay, there is usually time to observe and consider. There will be time if the aquarist has observed the fish regularly and noted their condition.

There can of course be difficulties in treating fish. If the fish are in a fish only aquarium, then the aquarist could probably administer fish medication directly. With a reef aquarium it is more difficult as corals will not tolerate certain medications. That’s another reason for having a good book to refer to, as a ‘doomsday plan’ could be generally worked out in advance just in case a need should arise in the future.

An aquarist needs to be like a scout – be prepared. Having a good book at hand will not cost a lot and it will have other uses besides disease, and will allow the aquarist to be educated on potential trouble that could occur.

Many years ago marine aquarists considered that if their husbandry was up to the mark it was possible that disease would not rear its ugly head. Nowadays with so much more known on fish capture techniques and transportation and the high level of aquarium environment that is now achievable, it is reasonably safe to state that it will be probable that fish disease will not appear. However, it will not ever be safe to use the word ‘never’, as the threat is always there.

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Fish Disease – What To Look Out For

August 6, 2008

When the aquarist obtained the desired fish for the display aquarium hopefully time was spent observing them. Just because fish are ‘new’ and in a dealer’s sale tanks does not mean they are problem free. This isn’t having a go at dealers at all; fish can have problems that don’t become apparent sometimes for weeks. The point of purchase is the initial line of defence.

The aquarist should look for fish that have bright eyes, unblemished skin, clear fins and a rounded body. Any fish with blemishes or spots on the skin or fins is suspect, as are cloudy eyes. Most marine fish are active and visit all parts of the aquarium, so a fish that is skulking in a corner is also suspect. The breathing rate (watch the gill beat) should be normal, though this can be a little difficult as different fish have different rates. However, it is often fairly obvious if a fish has an elevated breathing rate. There could be a good reason for this, such as bullying and harassment with nothing actually wrong with the fish. Caution though is the order of the day. There isn’t anything wrong in asking to see fish feed, particularly if the fish is a known or possible problem feeder. If feeding is a known potential problem this fish is not for the beginner.

Fish chosen should be compatible with each other and any that are already owned. Failure to choose such fish can lead to harassment causing stress. Obtaining fish unsuitable to the tank environment also causes stress, for example surgeon fish need plenty of swimming space. Stress could lead to disease.

It is assumed that the fish are properly and successfully introduced to the display aquarium and all is well. They all feed properly and get on with each other. Everything from this point on should be fine. Nowadays it is easy (compared to much earlier years) to maintain high quality seawater. A large number of aquarium fish do not encounter disease, probably the majority.

Besides maintaining the aquarium to the highest standards, it is the responsibility of the aquarist to keep a watch on the fish. This is easy as one of the greatest pleasures is simply observing beautiful fish and also perhaps a thriving coral reef. Seeing the fish isn’t a chore. They need to be examined though, not just looked at, for a little while. Are they all present? If not, which is missing and how long before it re-appears? If it does, is it acting normally? If it doesn’t, maybe it has died. Is there any ammonia present (mostly unlikely with modern bio filtration)?

Are the other fish acting normally? Do they have any marks or spots on the body or fins? Any cloudy eyes? Any increased breathing rates? Are they all feeding as usual? Is the swimming style of each fish normal or are any displaying unusual motion?

Taking the time to spot anything unusual, even though it may seem not much, is good husbandry. Treating some ailments, particularly in a reef aquarium, isn’t easy. The earlier a potential problem is spotted the earlier a diagnosis can be attempted. Some problems are easy to diagnose, others not so.

A simple check as described when observing the aquarium is worthwhile and could under certain circumstances prevent a population of fish being wiped out. Not a pleasant thought!

It must be mentioned that sometimes a fish will scratch on a rock and the aquarist, particularly a beginner, may twitch with apprehension. Most fish occasionally rub a rock probably for the same reason humans scratch an itch sometimes. It doesn’t necessarily indicate a health problem. Similarly, a mark may be seen on a fish’s skin – this could be where the fish has caught a rock. A watch on that particular fish will often indicate that there isn’t a problem.

Fish in our aquariums live in a tiny world compared to their wild home. For ongoing wellbeing they rely entirely on the aquarist. Maintenance and observation is a very small price for a living display of such beauty.

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An Aquaristic Nightmare

February 26, 2008

Marine IchI intend looking at two fish problems. These two problems are probably the most feared by marine aquarists. Those who keep a [tag-self]fish only aquarium[/tag-self] could sweat a little less, but the owner of a [tag-self]reef aquarium[/tag-self] can have real trouble.

The first is the so-called marine [tag-self]white spot[/tag-self], or ‘[tag-self]ich[/tag-self]‘. The cause of this problem is Cyptocaryon irritans, which is a parasite. The second is [tag-self]marine velvet[/tag-self], caused by the parasite Oodinium ocellatum. On the wild reef it is possible that a fish may run into one or other of these parasites once or twice, or perhaps never. The parasitic attack will not amount to much on the wild reef because of the enormous amount of gallonage and the very large numbers of fish present. In the confines of an aquarium it is a different story – this is why.

Though there are comparatively few fish in the aquarium, per gallon there are usually a lot, particularly in a fish only system. Also the parasites are restricted to the gallons and fish available, which is obvious, but it is that which causes the major problem.

The major problem is caused by the reproductive cycle of the parasites. If a fish is introduced to the aquarium with just one parasite attached to the outer body, this is enough. The parasite usually stays on the body of the fish for one or two days with white spot, three or four days with velvet, then it encysts and falls off. It drops to the bottom or on to rocks and begins to divide into many more parasites, and this process can last for up to two weeks. The parasites then reach the free swimming stage, when they search for a new host fish. A new host must be found within about 48 hours or the parasite will die. In the confines of the aquarium a fish or more will be found. The process then begins all over again. In due course, fish can become covered in parasites which continue their reproductive cycle. Eventually, the fish are so infested they die. Then the parasites will die too, but it is too late.

How are the problems recognised? First, fortunately white spot is fairly easy to see. The fish may ’scratch’ against rocks and may have one or two or more little white pimples anywhere on the body or fins. The spots are somewhere near the size of a pinhead.

If a pimple is seen then do not immediately assume that it is white spot. Observe if it goes away as sometimes a ’pimple’ is seen that is not white spot. However, watch very carefully for any development.

Velvet is more difficult to see. Again, the fish may ‘scratch’ against rocks. It is more likely that its gill beat (respiration) will be faster. It may hold its fins closed against the body. Note that the above symptoms may or may not be present. What are looked for on the body or fins of the fish are yellowish or white/grey spots. Unfortunately, these spots are very small and can hardly be seen. Try looking at the darker coloured areas of the fish. If a fish gives the chance, use a magnifying glass. Also, the aquarist can attempt to view the fish looking directly at the head when the fish’s body is behind the head (ie. head-on) – looking down the length of the fish the tiny spots might more easily be seen – the fish could appear to have a ‘dusting’. Velvet is the more deadly of the two problems, to a large extent because of the difficulty in identifying it.

With both problems, careful observation, consideration, and action are imperative. Failure to diagnose the presence of the parasites can lead to severe problems, at the worst all fish being badly infected and many or all facing death.

If the spots are parasites, then proper treatment must be given promptly. The headline rule is: “Don‘t Panic” When the spots are diagnosed, they do not develop so quickly that care cannot be taken.

If the aquarist has a fish only aquarium, then the best thing is to deal with all the fish as a safety measure. Dealing with just the fish showing a problem using a quarantine tank will not deal with any parasites that are in the aquarium, either in the division stage or unnoticed on another fish. All the fish can be moved to a quarantine tank if desired. They will have to stay in quarantine for at least two weeks, to try to ensure that any parasites in the display aquarium that are coming out of the divisional stage or swimming are dead as they couldn’t find a host. Whatever aquarium is used, the first action is to consider UV treatment of the display aquarium. If UV equipment is not held, then it is not absolutely necessary to buy a unit. UV will help destroy the parasites in their free swimming stage, but removal of all parasites is not guaranteed, and UV does nothing to parasites that are on a fish or encysted.

The use of a copper treatment will destroy the parasites. Warning: copper is deadly to

invertebrates. Do not use copper if invertebrates are present or it is intended to introduce any in the future. Stick strictly to the manufacturer’s recommendations about copper dosage and exposure time, and ensure there is a good copper concentration test kit available.

If invertebrates are a problem then see the reef system comments below. Invertebrates will be fine, of course, if they remain in the display aquarium when treatment is done in a quarantine tank. Obviously, ensure water is not transferred from the quarantine to the display aquarium.

When treatment is over and hopefully successful, and when the treatment was in the display aquarium, use a power filter and put activated carbon in. This will take out remaining copper. Throw away the water in a quarantine aquarium – do a larger (say 25%) water change in the display aquarium.

Keep a close eye on the fish to make sure all is well.

If the aquarist has a reef aquarium, then it is clear there will be livestock present that prohibits the use of copper. As above, if a UV unit is available, activate it immediately. Consider treating the fish in a quarantine aquarium also as above. It will be more difficult catching the fish as they are going to hide in the rockwork, and the aquarist will not be keen to dismantle the reef. If it is clear the fish cannot be successfully caught, then the option is to use a reef safe treatment.

Reef safe treatments have not been shown (to my knowledge) to be as effective as copper. Even though they are termed ‘reef safe’, the manufacturer’s instructions must be strictly adhered to. It is possible that in the treatment process some corals close up because of contact with the substance, or certain types of livestock must not be present.

Once treatment has ceased activated carbon should be introduced to clean up any treatment residue, subject to the instructions that came with the treatment. A larger than normal water change is also beneficial.

There are other treatments that can be used on infected fish other than described, but these require capture of the fish and removal from the display area, so the reef aquarist faces the same problem.

The best way to avoid problems such as described above is to purchase fish with great care, and introduce them with the same care. Stress is a large factor that can cause problems because of impaired immunity. The use of a quarantine aquarium is very sensible.

To end on a positive note, and assuming that fish are carefully introduced, the chance of problems as described are reduced nowadays. The greater knowledge and practice of wild capture techniques, better transportation of fish, and more knowledgeable retail shops means purchasing a healthy fish is more likely. The aquarist is the final guard however, and must never lower the defences: careful selection, careful introduction, careful ongoing observation, stress avoidance at all times, proper nutrition, and overall high class husbandry which includes high quality seawater.

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