Just Relax!

The marine hobby is very relaxing most of the time. There could be times when it is stressful for the aquarist, for instance when a fish is in trouble or there is some other serious problem. This stress could also occur when nuisance algae invade and the battle to get rid of it seems to never end. It does eventually end of course, with the aquarist the victor.

As said though, most of the time it is relaxing, a great antidote for those with stressful lives, getting up in the morning, breakfast, travel to work, trains full and/or late, or roads packed and vehicles moving at a snail’s pace. It is even relaxing for those who are already relaxed because they’re retired, for example, and have the time to do the things they actually want to do.

Maintaining the system is a chore sometimes, but for the most part is an enjoyable part of the hobby and also relaxing.

There is nothing more relaxing though than sitting down and just watching the aquarium, seeing healthy, colourful fish and corals in the captive environment the aquarist created.

On this occasion there isn’t any talk of the importance of seawater quality or lighting or anything else. This time let’s just watch.

The attached is a video of a fish only aquarium, with good music. It’s worth a little time. The video music ends quite abruptly, it would have been better to have gently faded out, but at least it’ll wake anyone dozing off!

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The Dwarf Lionfish

Lionfish are known to marine aquarists for two main reasons these being their predatory nature and their finnage which is unusual.

There are several lionfish types, probably the most well known one being the common lionfish, Pterois volitans, which is also the one usually most available. This fish can grow to around 12 inches.

The dwarf lionfish is named because of its comparative size, it could grow to around 7 inches. This fish can also usually be obtained without too much trouble. Though the adult size is around 7 inches, the fish is often for sale when much smaller. The link shows some photographs of the fish, some of these demonstrate how the colouration is reasonably effective as camouflage.

http://www.poppe-images.com/images/search_results.php?keyword_mh=Dendrochirus+brachypterus&x=58&y=9

Though there seem to always be occasional exceptions, the dwarf lionfish, proper name Dendrochirus brachypterus, is not for a reef aquarium. For a start it is a predator and will eat the smaller fish that are often kept, further it is likely to eat or damage some invertebrates.

In a fish only aquarium the dwarf lionfish should be kept with fish larger than itself because, as said, it will eat smaller ones and even ones more or less its own size – selecting the fish to go in a fish only community needs particular care because, again as said, the ones for sale are often small. Clearly they are going to grow and as they grow the fish population is going to reduce. Even at the initial small size they could eat other small fish. The predatory tendency maybe could be kept at bay or reduced if the fish is fed well, though this isn’t a guarantee.

Some aquarists keep the fish in a species aquarium as unlike tangs it does not require a large swimming space. This isn’t a bad idea as in addition to the community fish in the fish only aquarium being secure, the dwarf lionfish does not usually object to other same type fish being present. Obviously care has to be taken with stocking levels and also care with the fish themselves – one could maybe eat another if it was smaller.

A novice aquarist who wishes to gain some experience with a fish only aquarium could select the dwarf lionfish as a good addition, as the fish is hardy. The word ‘hardy’ does not mean that attention to seawater quality is not important, it is. The meaning is that the fish should withstand some common mistakes a novice could make, one prime example is overfeeding which will bring seawater quality down.

Mentioning the word feeding, this should be reasonably straightforward as the fish is predatory. It used to be said that small goldfish could be used as ‘feeder fish’ as they are inexpensive and last long enough in salt water to attract the attention of the lionfish. Nowadays this is not seen as ethical and is considered cruel. In addition, goldfish naturally live in freshwater, so is this food correct from a dietary point? The best way to feed the lionfish is to obtain frozen marine food such as lance fish, which is readily available. These are fairly small fish and the lionfish should be able to take them, if not they can easily be cut when frozen. Ensure of course that they are completely thawed (don’t thaw in a microwave as this reduces the nutritional value; thaw in some reverse osmosis water or seawater).

Feeding could present one problem and that is the food is of course dead, the lionfish is a predator and used to hunting live food so could ignore that provided. The answer to this is usually successful. Obtain some thin white cotton thread and fasten the food loosely to it. When the food is placed in the aquarium make sure it is in the vicinity of the fish and make it move about gently. Some patience could be required but eventually the hungry fish should take it. The cotton should come off easily. Peter once kept a lionfish in a species aquarium and it learned to take food in this way. In time, as soon as the food appeared at the surface it was taken without any delay. Having mentioned a potential problem with feeding it is possible that there could be no problem at all, it has been reported that the fish very occasionally will take anything meaty floating in the seawater, very small or not. Normal feeding of the lionfish is not required every day; every other day should be tried. The feeding frequency can be determined by observation, the fish should be reasonably eager.

The fish has spines that are venomous, just as much so as the larger lionfish. This needs to be remembered when hands are in the aquarium for maintenance. Also it is possible that a plastic bag could be punctured when the fish is being transported home, the dealer should ensure this is unlikely to cause problems by double or even triple bagging.

Once the dwarf lionfish is in the aquarium, having got there using the correct acclimatization technique, it should settle down quickly. The aquarist then has a fish that is unusual in finnage and different to observe. Though slow moving in comparison to others, it is a counter to the more usually kept fish. Perhaps the ideal is a species aquarium which sits underneath the larger display one?

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Potential Problems With A Fish Only Aquarium

The fish only system is probably not as popular as a captive reef but there are plenty of aquarists who maintain one. There are advantages to it as well.

The fish only aquarium can house fish that would not be welcome on a captive reef because they are predatory on other fish and/or shrimps, or find corals good to munch on. Habits like these are certainly not going to increase their standing in the reef aquarium popularity stakes. There can also be a higher fish load. Though seawater quality remains a high priority it is not quite as demanding as with the reef aquarium. Further tests could be made but basically pH, phosphate, nitrate, and SG (specific gravity) are those that should receive attention (assuming that maturation has taken place and the system is stable with a functional bio-filter). Lighting is also not as demanding, the basic requirement is for the fish to be able to see and be seen.

Despite the lower demand for high quality seawater, efforts should always be made to achieve the highest possible. The nitrate guideline for fish only is 30ppm (parts per million) or less, phosphate preferably undetectable but no more than 0.03ppm, SG 1.022 to 1.025 and pH 8.1 to 8.4.

The fish only aquarium is not completely plain sailing though. There could be problems. These are also possible with a reef system but less likely. The following is not in any particular order of priority.

Oxygen.
Oxygen is very important to fish as it is to us. However, there is around twenty times more oxygen in the air we breathe than in warm seawater. The usual level of oxygen in warm seawater is around 6 to 8ppm. Just a few parts per million! The warmer the seawater is the less oxygen, so in a heat wave where there isn’t any efficient cooling apparatus the oxygen will reduce. So it is clear that maximum oxygen intake is essential. Seawater circulation should be efficient, as this brings the seawater to air/water interfaces such as the aquarium seawater surface. It is at these interfaces that oxygen intake takes place. Making use of a sump is a good idea, not only does it increase the net gallonage, it permits seawater to run over a weir or similar, which effectively removes any scum that could accumulate on the seawater surface. This scum can reduce the efficiency of the seawater surface interface.

Nitrate.
Nitrate is well known to all marine aquarists and is to be avoided as far as possible. It is a known nuisance algae nutrient which is a good reason to keep it down. Generally fish are able to tolerate nitrate better than corals, though there are more sensitive fish. Nitrate needs to be minimized anyway to enhance seawater quality.

Nitrate gets into the seawater as part of the Nitrogen Cycle, following on from ammonia and nitrite. Once it is in the seawater, it stays there unless there are nitrate reducing agents present, such as live rock (which is able to deal with nitrate but only within reasonable limits), denitrators etc. In a fully stocked fish only aquarium it is likely that nitrate will be present anyway.

The first action that controls nitrate is maintenance, namely routine seawater changes. The guideline, which can be adjusted by the aquarist as experience grows, is 10% of the total system net gallonage per week. In addition, when old seawater is being siphoned out any detritus should also be removed.

An efficient protein skimmer is a must. The device should be properly sized so that it can easily handle the total gallonage of the system. The protein skimmer removes dissolved organic substances (Docs) completely out of the seawater. This is very helpful, as it means the bio-filtration will not have to deal with it, so the load on the filtration is reduced. Further, if the bio-filtration is not dealing with it, it will not lead to additional nitrates.

The main source of nitrate is from feeding. The fish will naturally process the food of course and it will eventually become nitrate. Any additional food that is not eaten will also join the nitrogen cycle and become nitrate, as will rotting algae etc. Feeding is very often overdone, particularly by beginners, this is very detrimental. There are usually more fish in a fish only system, size for size, than a reef, so more food is required anyway. Feeding the livestock is very enjoyable and the aquarist is concerned that they get enough, so it is more than easy to overfeed. It is a discipline that needs to be learned however, as overfeeding is just the opposite of ‘good’.

Phosphate.
Phosphate as already mentioned should be at a very low level. Most phosphate in the seawater gets there from the food fed to the fish, so again it is very necessary to discipline feeding. As with nitrate, if there is a phosphate problem the feeding method must be critically examined.

Overstocking.
Overstocking must be the worst problem, simply because it leads to others. The aquarist could have been aware of the guidelines for stocking and adhered to them, but still the aquarium becomes overstocked. This is because when the fish were originally purchased they were small. Many fish for sale in retailers are small. However they all, to differing extents of course, have the potential to grow, and they will. What started out as a correctly stocked aquarium becomes badly overstocked. The potential for trouble looms larger.

As the fish grow they demand more food which the aquarist supplies. This leads to more waste for the nitrogen cycle to deal with, which in turn leads to more nitrates. Unless the aquarist increases the seawater routine change amount to combat the rise, the nitrate is likely to slowly increase, which decreases the quality of the seawater. Filtration such as live rock continues to deal with some nitrates but the increased amount in the seawater could be beyond its capabilities – the amount of bio-filtration material was calculated for a correctly stocked aquarium. This means, particularly if deterioration is permitted to continue, that the fish become more likely to suffer health problems.

Then there is the all important oxygen. The larger the fish get the more oxygen they consume. It could well be, hopefully, that there continues to be enough oxygen for the fish. What happens though if the temperature rises, which reduces the oxygen content of the seawater? The demand for oxygen by the fish doesn’t reduce. The fish could start to gasp near the seawater surface. If this situation is reached it is serious.

It is worse than that! The fish are consuming oxygen from a dwindling supply; they could start to gasp as said. There is another oxygen hungry item in the aquarium, one that is essential to its well being. This is the bio-filter, where all the hardworking bacteria reside. These bacteria convert the toxics ammonia and nitrite into nitrate and it is essential they function properly. If they don’t because of reduced oxygen levels then a serious situation could become dire.

Overstocking could lead to a further problem and this is aggression. To a varying extent fish need space and also a place to call home. If they haven’t a secure place to hide overnight then they could attempt to obtain one by taking over from another fish. The other fish is not likely to be happy with that. Aggression produces winners and losers, and if a fish is not secure and is harassed there is a danger to its health. Sometimes aggression doesn’t occur, such as in a dealer’s aquarium, as there isn’t anywhere to hide anyway. In a home aquarium there should be, the aquascaping should deal with it.

Overstocking is easily avoided by simple research. When fishes are being chosen their likely final size should be considered. This will reduce the fish numbers that could be initially housed. Another way, one that is very second rate in my opinion, is to stock for the purchase size and when growth is a problem either return the fish to the dealer on exchange or swap with another aquarist. This method is not so good because it could be the dealer is not interested in larger fish as there isn’t a market for them, and other aquarists could have a full stock anyway and not want more. Better to consider potential growth and stock on that.

Incidentally, when calculating stocking levels ignore any sump, this is because the fish are in the display aquarium and the sump area is not available to them. If the sump were to be included the potential for overcrowding would increase. The gallonage in the sump will also assist with overall seawater quality.

Results.
If the aquarist stocks the aquarium properly he/she will know that the oxygen supply is unlikely to cause problems (this does not mean that in extra warm weather cooling of the seawater is not required). It will also be known that the bio-filtration, essential to the well being of the fish, will be able to cope. If routine seawater changes are done, and they are of a suitable amount, nitrates and phosphates are unlikely to be a problem, or at least the problem potential is reduced, also reducing the potential for nuisance algae. If the aquarist feeds with discipline there will still be pleasure in the process, but the pressure on the bio-filtration will be lessened and the production of nitrates and phosphates reduced.

A well set up and cared for fish only aquarium can be colourful and fascinating. Whether there are many small fish or one or two larger species, they’ll be in fine shape.

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Let’s Go Clubbing!

Receiving an invite like that normally means getting into something really comfortable and going to town to study the nightlife, usually through a glass of alcoholic beverage. In this case though it’s a bit more sober – usually – but still a lot of fun.

Aquarists love nothing better than looking at other aquarist’s aquariums, except for looking at their own. Close to that is talk about aquariums in general and all the subjects, such as equipment, that go with it. That’s probably why internet forums are popular, it’s a place where other aquarists give their opinions and experiences and queries can be answered. The answers to queries can in themselves be interesting purely because they are often so different.

There’s another place where face to face contact can be made and that is at an aquarists club. These come under various titles which often include something about the location. In a way they are a live forum.

As said most aquarist love chatting and arguing about the hobby. What better than face to face? Bill tells Fred about the problems Jim had when he introduced that new fish. Good bit of head shaking to be had after that! What about Harry and his alkalinity, he raised it too high you know. General good natured chatter is great and even better if there’s a drink to be had. Most clubs are not private bars; members just take a drink or two to share. Sometimes there are sandwiches and cakes to be had as well.

The greatest potential use of a club, apart from allowing aquarists to make more friends who have interest in the same hobby, is to a novice. Talking directly to more experienced aquarists is going to be of more use than any internet forum, as questions raise questions and the discussion could go on for hours if necessary until the novice understands or has formed an opinion. This kind of discussion usually attracts other aquarists sitting nearby. A ‘what do you think to this’ kind of thing.

Another advantage of a club is the chance to get an invite to view other aquariums. Photographs and videos on the internet are fine, but nothing can replace the view by the human eye. Different equipment in action can be seen, and discussions about methods and improvements could take place.

Many aquarist end up with all sorts of bits and pieces of marine aquarium equipment lying unused in sheds or garages. They appear when upgrades take place, or just changes because the aquarist has decided to follow a different avenue. Aquarists with this dormant equipment would be more than pleased to pass it on, knowing that it is to be put to good use. The cost is very reasonable, in fact if the two making the transaction are club friends it could be free.

We all know the cost of livestock, it isn’t particularly cheap. Also, even if the LFS is of good reputation, there is always the risk of problems. Many aquarists now ‘frag’, a word meaning aquaculture corals. It is quite likely that club members do this, and other club members could benefit before the LFS. An interested aquarist could even be invited to pop round and have a look at the mother colony in advance and see the ‘real thing’. Again, cost is low or it could just be a matter of swapping one for another, with both aquarists benefitting.

Clubs sometimes go off for the day to public aquariums or other places of interest, such as a large but more distant LFS. This offers the opportunity for the aquarists to linger more or less as long as they like. They are also able to chatter about marine subjects, without the children being bored or the partner wanting to go and see some clothes shops.

There are many good things about a local marine club. Maybe it is an overall aquarists club for both marine and freshwater, all the better, more to talk about.

Why not see if there is a local club near you. Try it and see, join if you like it, you probably will.

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What’s In Marine Aquariums – The Beginners Guide

We have had a few people contact us asking what is in our new book and who it is beneficial for. We have replied to them but I thought it might be beneficial if we listed this information on Aquarists Online as well.

Basically the book is available in both physical printed format as well as in downloadable digital format. The latter is where you download it and read it directly on your computer screen.

The book has been split into several sections as we believe that the important research should be performed prior to even purchasing a single thing. This research is covered in the introduction as well as parts 1 and 2.

The introduction section details such things as what the marine aquarium hooby actually is, the differences between saltwater and freshwater as well as detailing what marine reef systems and fish only system are.

Part 1 is based around the equipment either required or a possible extra. Various types of equipment are discussed and details what the equipment is, how it works and what it is used for.

Part 2 covers one of the most important research areas in our opinion and this is the area of filtration. Filtration itself is discussed in detail so that the reader understands how the filtration in an aquarium work and then various filtration techniques are discussed so that the reader can implement the filtration method which is most suitable to them or their aquarium.

At the end of these 3 sections the reader is now in a position to start purchasing items based upon the decisions they have made from these sections.

Part 3 covers the process of physicall setting up the aquarium, install and preparing the relevant equipment, water, filtration and then methods to start the nitrogen cycle as well as detailing what needs to be done to ensure that the aquarium is ready to support life.

At the end of this part the aquarium should be ready for the introduction of life so we move on to the introduction of life into the aquarium.

Part 4 details the stocking of the aquarium and covers areas such as how to select livestock, quarantine techniques, acclimitisation techniques, risks and methods of purchasing livestock on the internet as well as feeding techniques.

Part 5 is where we cover the area that aquarists fear – disease. In this section we covers aspects such as symptoms, prevention, treatment, injuries etc.

Part 6 covers the required element of ongoing care and maintenance. This is where we detail what to look after, how to look after it, when things need to be performed and prepares the aquarists for the future where if the required care and maintenance is performed and both patience and diligence are employed that a successful aquarium may be theirs to enjoy.

Part 7 is where we close the book down and cover some closing elements such as safety and running costs.

Both John and I are very pleased with the book and feel that it will be of benefit to numerous people however it is aimed at people who are considering starting the marine aquarium hobby or have just started and are looking for more information.

We have attempted to write this book so that anyone will understand it. There are some areas of this book which are classed as advanced techniques however we have spent considerable time writing these areas so that they are understandable and do not confuse the reader.

As said both John and I are very pleased with this book and hope that many aquarists from around the globe will find it beneficial and end up having successful aquariums.

There are some people who will feel that it include information which is only suitable for beginners but that is why it is called ‘Marine Aquariums – The Beginners Guide’

Further information about our new book can be found at http://www.salt-water-aquarium.com

Below is the table of content from the book which details the contents more in depth.

Table of Contents

Foreword And Acknowledgements
This Wonderful Hobby
Introduction
Chapter 1 – The Saltwater Aquarium Hobby
Chapter 2 – What You Can Find In This Guide
Chapter 3 – The Differences Between Saltwater And Freshwater
Chapter 4 – What Is A Fish Only Aquarium
Chapter 5 – What Is A Marine Reef System
Chapter 6 – Considerations
Part 1 – What Everything Does
Chapter 7 – The Aquarium
Chapter 8 – The Sump
Chapter 9 – Substrate Selection
Chapter 10 – The Nitrogen Cycle
Chapter 11 – Protein Skimming
Chapter 12 – Ultra Violet Sterilisation
Chapter 13 – Water
Chapter 14 – Temperature
Chapter 15 – Lighting
Chapter 16 – Water Circulation
Chapter 17 – Water Parameters
Chapter 18 – Calcium Addition
Chapter 19 – Algae
Chapter 20 – Decor
Chapter 21 – Other Equipment
Chapter 22 – Here’s What You Need
Part 2 – Filtration
Chapter 23 – Mechanical Filtration
Chapter 24 – Biological Filtration
Chapter 25 – Chemical Filtration
Chapter 26 – Man Made Filtration
Chapter 27 – Natural Filtration
Chapter 28 – Usage Of Chemical Filtration
Chapter 29 – Filtration Techniques
Part 3 – Setting Up Your Aquarium
Chapter 30 – ‘Fail To Plan And You Plan To Fail’
Chapter 31 – Tank, Stand And Hood
Chapter 32 – Sump
Chapter 33 – Heater
Chapter 34 – Power Heads And Pumps
Chapter 35 – Lighting
Chapter 36 – Protein Skimmer
Chapter 37 – Nitrate Removal
Chapter 38 – Use Of Chemical Filtration
Chapter 39 – Water
Chapter 40 – Filtration
Chapter 41 – Power On
Chapter 42 – Starting The Nitrogen Cycle
Part 4 – Ready To Stock
Chapter 43 – Selecting Your Livestock
Chapter 44 – Quarantine
Chapter 45 – Acclimatisation Techniques
Chapter 46 – Purchasing Livestock Online
Chapter 47 – Feeding Techniques
Part 5 – Fish Diseases
Chapter 48 – Causes
Chapter 49 – Symptoms
Chapter 50 – Water Quality
Chapter 51 – Types Of Diseases
Chapter 52 – Injuries
Chapter 53 – Prevention
Part 6 – Taking Care Of Your Aquarium
Chapter 54 – Equipment
Chapter 55 – New Saltwater Mix
Chapter 56 – Doing The Job
Chapter 57 – Additional Information
Part 7 – Closing
Chapter 58 – Running Costs
Chapter 59 – Electrical Safety
Chapter 60 – Conclusion
Photography Credits
Index
About The Authors
John Cunningham
Peter Cunningham

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How Do You Transport Aquarium Fish?

Obtaining fish from the LFS (local fish shop) is really exciting. Maybe the aquarium is being initially stocked, or perhaps an ‘extra’ is being added (I hope that this doesn’t mean overstocking!). Whatever the reason for the purchase, the fish need to be taken to the aquarist’s home.

The fish have probably already travelled a long distance from the wild coral reef. They could of course have been bred in captivity and these are the fish to initially check for availability. Travel is stressful and to a greater or lesser extent the fish have already had plenty. So stress needs to be minimized.

The first action of course is at the LFS. The retailer will select a suitable sized bag and place it inside another bag for seawater security, if this doesn’t happen ask for it. The bag receives some aquarium seawater. Now the fish needs to be caught. This shouldn’t be too much of a problem as retail show tanks are usually fairly devoid of decorations. The fish then, strangely enough, goes into the bag.

To assist with stress reduction it is a good idea to transport the fish in reduced light. This can be achieved by placing a brown paper bag over the plastic ones. If this isn’t done by the retailer, ask for it.

The fish is now ready for transportation – if the aquarist lives reasonably close by. The fish bag should not be shaken about and should be placed securely with the top uppermost out of direct light, particularly sunlight. During a car journey there is bound to be some movement of course but this shouldn’t cause problems. Once the destination is reached the bag should be gently carried indoors. Resist taking the brown bag off and staring at the fish, though the temptation is usually there.

All that now remains is to introduce the fish correctly. Introduction should follow the correct principles or stress could increase and the dangers of disease likewise.

There isn’t much difference in transporting a fish over a greater distance. When in the LFS advise the retailer the distance that has to be covered. The retailer will probably use a larger bag and put more seawater in it. It should be double-bagged as described above and could have a brown paper bag on the outside as well. Some retailers also add oxygen to the bag.

The aquarist should have a heat retaining box with lid to use for transportation over longer distances, though there isn’t any reason why one couldn’t be used for a shorter journey. Many LFS’s have small ones that are suitable for transporting. They get them from livestock deliveries to the shop and they are often constructed of rigid foam which is ideal being light in weight. Using such a box retains seawater heat very well and in addition the fish is in the dark. The aquarist should not take the lid off during the journey to check if the fish is fine, this will just add stress. The fish, if from the wild, has already travelled a great distance and survived.

The bag inside the box can be held in position if necessary by packing the empty part with crumpled newspaper etc.

The box should be placed securely so it doesn’t move about. If being transported in a car the boot is usually ideal and the box could be wedged in place with a picnic blanket or similar. Watch out though that in warmer areas sunlight doesn’t excessively increase the temperature in the boot, though of course the box will insulate heat in and out to an extent.

So the fish is in the bag and the bag is in the box. Once the lid is on the box it should stay in place until the destination is reached. Take the lid off in subdued light, and handle the box and bag gently.

All that now remains is to correctly introduce the fish as in the short journey scenario.

Paying attention to everything from fish selection in the LFS to when it is finally introduced to the display aquarium (after having spent time in a quarantine tank?) is worthwhile. Stress is reduced and the fish should have a better chance of a long and healthy life.

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Are We Creating A Home Or A Habitat?

At first glance it seems a strange question to be asked. We’re concerned with marine aquariums, so what is meant by ‘home’ and ‘habitat’?

It’s pretty obvious that whether the marine aquarium is a reef or fish only system there’s going to be livestock in it. So we need to create a suitable environment and the first requirement for the completed system is salt water (what a surprise!). Then of course there are the lights, particularly for reef systems, and all the rest. ‘All the rest’ refers to protein skimmers, calcium reactors, heaters etc. These are primarily to maintain high quality seawater.

So what has been created, just a box with some rocks, saltwater and lights? It must be more than that. Many people are quite rightly concerned about the wild reef situation, that is, the ongoing deterioration. This deterioration is a reduction in the quality of the environment; it doesn’t actually alter the habitat. The rocks and sand aren’t disappearing. The aquarium environment is important and that, to me anyway, means the quality mainly of the seawater and also, for a reef system, the lighting.

There is more to it than that of course. Aquarists try to make the aquarium as ‘natural’ as possible, for example using live rock for bio-filtration and also the reef or aquascape construction. Another example is the DSB (deep sand bed).

The aquarium is alien and something like a spaceship with any life inside supported to a large extent by technology. The environment has to be of sufficient quality to permit the life to survive.

The Oxford dictionary explains environment as ‘-.surroundings, surrounding objects, circumstances, or influences.’ So it seems we’re on the correct track so far.

So what of ‘habitat’ then? It could be thought that habitat is the same as environment. However, I would suggest that habitat is more closely related to the life in it. Marine fish normally live on a reef. So the aquarist creates this within the aquarium so that the fish can interact with it the same as they do in the wild as far as possible. When I speak of ‘reef’, this could be the live rock captive reef or the rock construction created in a fish only system. There is a specific habitat for the fish and this is the reef. The same for corals, their habitat is also the reef.

Again, the Oxford dictionary explains ‘habitat’ as ‘natural home of plant or animal.’ Again, it seems we’re still on the correct track.

What of ‘home’ then? We humans have homes to which we return to eat, relax and sleep. We generally feel secure within our home. This can also be applied to fish. As said, the habitat is the reef and within that reef is the home. These homes vary of course; they could be a hide-hole or the stinging tentacles of an anemone. The fish we keep need to feel secure, they need a home, and when the aquarist constructs the reef or aquascape they are not only making the aquarium attractive they are providing the homes the fish require. When the rocks are purchased not only should they be suitable to the aquarist’s artistic requirements, more importantly they should be suitable to the fish’s needs. Each fish, subject to its natural tendencies, needs a crevice or a hole in which to hide and feel secure. It follows that there should be sufficient rocks that are suitable to create sufficient holes and crevices. Without this it is likely that aggression could appear, as one fish could attempt to take over the home of another. The need to hide overnight for example is very strong; failure to hide could mean death. Fish instincts don’t change in the aquarium.

The Oxford dictionary supports ‘home’ by advising ‘…dwelling place; one’s residence…’.

So I would suggest that the aquarist is creating a habitat to simulate, as far as possible, the wild reef, and within that habitat will be created homes for the life that dwells on the captive reef. If that life feels secure and unstressed all should be well. The aquarist just needs to maintain a high quality environment.

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