How Can You Diagnose Fish Disease?

Reading marine aquarium potential disease pages in a book could be enough to make an aquarist’s hair stand on end! Various problems appear to be lurking ready to inflict doom on the unsuspecting livestock.

It doesn’t ever have to be a problem – disease that is. The advance in collection methods and aquarium husbandry has been high over the last decade and there must be many aquarists who have never faced disease problems. It must be said though that the problems could still strike. It has been stated many times that the major defence is with the aquarist, from the moment he/she goes into the LFS to the moment the fish is released in the display aquarium observation and proper procedures should be observed. Even if all is as it should be, there remains the possibility of problems.

The good news is that most diseases can be dealt with successfully nowadays if the disease can be attacked. The bad news is relevant to the latter part of the last sentence. For example, copper is a prime treatment of certain parasitic problems and copper is also deadly to invertebrates. So if the aquarist runs a reef system copper is not the choice treatment.

Observation of fish stock should be a daily occurrence. This is easily achieved as the aquarist will usually feed daily and the fish are easily seen. If one doesn’t come out to feed there isn’t a need to immediately think there is a problem, but a warning bell should ring. Next time, is the fish there? If not, what’s going on?

If fish are seen to be swimming strangely such as darting about, apparently unable to hold a normal position in the seawater, lethargic, breathing more quickly than usual, or rubbing (flicking) against rocks then the aquarist should first of all test the seawater. Do an ammonia and nitrite test, followed by a pH test. If all is normal and the seawater is of its usual high quality then move on. If there is something wrong with the seawater then deal with it – a larger than usual seawater change or changes will dilute any ammonia or nitrite presence. Make sure nothing has happened to damage the bio-filter, for example if a canister filter is in use they are driven by an electric motor which could have slowed or stopped. If the pH is low is the seawater circulation as it should be? If it isn’t then oxygen intake could have been affected. Fix the offending article such as a powerhead etc.

So overall the seawater is the first suspect and it will not take much time to confirm this one way or another. If there isn’t a problem with the seawater then attention returns to the fish.

Correct disease identification is very important. It will not be of much use applying medication if it is the wrong sort. Also, applying a wide range of medications in the hope that one of them will do the trick is not a good idea; it will cause additional stress to the fish and probably exacerbate the situation. The aquarist should carefully observe the fish and try to see if there is anything unusual about them. There could be cloudy eyes, torn fins or little white/grey dots on the fish etc.

Identification of potential diseases of fish is a large and detailed subject and not suitable for this text. As has been said before there isn’t any need for an aquarist to be a scientist or engineer, but there is a requirement for the basics to be understood.

One of these basics is to be prepared, like a good scout. So what there should be, along with the test kits etc is a good marine aquarium book. Usually it isn’t a great deal of help going on the internet as to obtain relevant information the disease identity needs to be known. Asking for assistance and advice on a forum is good normally but in this case there is likely to be more than one identity suggestion as some disease indications are relevant to more than one problem, and in addition time is passing. Some problems need reasonably speedy action.

Picking a suitable book is easy as content can be ascertained in advance. The bonus is that there will be a lot of information relevant to the marine hobby other than diseases, so the aquarist will have a source of information literally at his/her finger tips.

So basically the routine is:

Observation – should be the habit daily.
Seawater – is the quality as it should be? Test and find out.
Identification = the most difficult. Having a good book which contains a diseases section is the best way forward. It will also detail suggested remedies.

On this website (aquaristsonline.com) are texts which are relevant to fish diseases:

Click on ‘Articles’ (top of page) then click at left hand side on ‘Aquarium Care’. Then click the article ‘Controlling Fish Tank Diseases.’

Again on ‘Articles’ and again under ‘Aquarium Care’, click on ‘An Aquaristic Nightmare.’

Click on ‘Blog’ (top of page). Then click on ‘Livestock’ then on ‘Fish’. Scroll down, there are some relevant to disease.

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Catching A Fish – It Requires Patience

The aquarist could own a fish only or reef aquarium, whichever it is there is one action that is very low in popularity – catching a fish.

The natural reaction of a fish when anything seemingly threatening approaches is to move away and hide. This is the survival instinct from the wild. It is the same reaction as hiding when night time approaches. Failure to get out of harm’s way and hide could mean death.

In the aquarium the fish have their wild instincts. These do become modified to an extent, for example when the aquarist approaches the aquarium the fish could come to the front in anticipation of food. Overall though there isn’t much change, generally introduce a new fish and the resident fish usually back off until they are confident of safety in the new fish’s presence. Likewise, if the aquarist puts a net in the aquarium the fish will move away rapidly as it is an unknown presence.

If all is well there may never be a need to catch a fish. If the aquarist goes through the correct careful sequence with purchasing and introduction there could never be any sickness, and similarly if fish are only bought when it is known they are compatible with the other fish and/or reef there should not be any excessive aggression or undesirable actions such as eating corals.

There may be a time though when a fish is bullied or just off colour or clearly sick. Something needs to be done to assist the fish and also in the case of sickness to protect the other fish.

This is a problem in itself as catching a fish is very stressful to the fish (and also to the aquarist!). This stress will not help the fish’s condition at all and so catching needs to be as efficient as possible.

The first action is observation. Does the fish usually hang about in one particular area, hopefully high in the seawater column? Second, does the fish need to be caught immediately or could a day or two pass? These questions decide the first attempted method. The aquarium décor is not upset with this method, which relies on the fish gaining confidence in the presence of a net. Put a suitably sized net in the aquarium (ensure it is seawater safe) and make sure it remains in the chosen position. The handle must be easily reached without alarming the fish. The net position should be well beneath the surface in an area where the fish is likely to swim. After a time, sometimes hours, sometimes days, the fish will lose much of its fear of the net and swim above it. This is what is needed, the fish to swim over the net. The best time could be during feeding if the fish takes food. The aquarist is in position and when the fish is above the net, the net is moved up at speed giving the fish no time to escape. It needs first time success really or the fish could once again fear the net.

If the method above is not of use then procedure could depend on the type of system. If the system is fish only with few rocks and filtered by say a canister filter, there isn’t any problem in moving the rocks, or most of them, temporarily out of the aquarium. Getting the rocks out of the way will make catching the fish much easier as the fish will normally choose the rocks to hide in.  There could be desirable growth on the rocks and so the aquarist should be prepared to keep them damp with seawater if they are not placed in a bucket. Moving the rocks could also throw up a considerable amount of detritus, so once the action is over the detritus can be removed before the rocks are put back. The rock removal action will cause stress to all fish, not just the one being caught, as their safe homes will suddenly disappear. Preferably two nets should be used as one will chase the fish and the other will block the escape – either net could catch the fish.

If the aquarium has a lot of live rock, which could be fish only but particularly a reef system, then removing the rocks is not usually an option. However, the possibility should be considered. With rocks in the aquarium it will be very nearly impossible to catch a fish as it will simply dive into them. So another method has to be considered and this is the fish trap.

Fish traps are available commercially and usually consist of an acrylic box with a vertically sliding door at one end. They are designed so that they fill with seawater and sink though sometimes a small pebble or two assists this. Into the trap goes food, the aquarist will know the type of food the fish likes best and, if practical, this should be used. Using a trap is likely to be successful several times! It could be that the first caught is a shrimp, then later a fish but the wrong one, then another again the wrong one. In addition of course the fish need time to get used to the trap, at first it is an alien presence. Eventually the target fish should be caught.

There is another method but this one requires a difficult decision. If one fish needs to be caught and this is an immediate requirement the aquarist must consider taking down the aquascaping or reef. As already said the fish isn’t going to be caught with a sizeable rock structure present. Deciding to take down the aquascape/reef is not easy, especially with an aged aquarium as it will have developed a great deal. We aquarists must always consider the welfare of the livestock and balance the damage we may do with an action to catch and maybe save one fish opposed to the troubles that could be caused to numerous corals, shrimps, crabs and other fish. Sometimes it could be best to leave the problem to Mother Nature and see what happens*. It is not unknown for an ‘ailing’ fish to recover especially if the habitat is of high quality. If ‘leaving’ is the decision then the fish must be monitored. Has it been seen, how is it doing? If the fish fails to appear one day and remains unseen it is probable that it has died within the rockwork. Bacteria and maybe shrimps clear away a dead fish rapidly. However, seawater quality must be tested more often than usual, that is ammonia and nitrite, until the aquarist is confident there isn’t a problem.

*‘Leaving’ is not an option when an ailment that requires immediate attention has been identified. Proper medication needs to be administered without undue delay. Again this is easier in a basic canister filtered fish only system than in the others. Medication will not be covered here.

So as said catching a fish requires that basic aquarist’s attribute patience, and sometimes a lot of it. It can be done though, and being successful rests considerably on the catching method chosen.

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Is There A ‘Best Size’ Aquarium To Start With

This is probably something which most beginners to this hobby ask themselves and it is a very valid question. A lot of people recommend that beginners start with the largest aquarium which they can both afford and fit into the designated area.

This is very good advice however it can also be confusing as well as off-putting. People sometimes look at the large aquariums as well as the required equipment, see the cost and then are put off.

The reason that a lot of people recommend a large aquarium to start with is due to the fact that it is easier to maintain water quality in an aquarium with more water volume. The way I explain this to people is in relation to a cup of coffee!

In a cup of coffee if you put a spoon full of sugar in there it will taste quite sweet however if the coffee was in a bucket then the coffee would not taste as sweet – if you could taste it at all.

The same is with an aquarium where nutrients such as nitrate and phosphate is the sugar.

So am I different or do I recommend the same.

Actually I am different – I recommend that people start with an aquarium size which is correct for them and their budget. If a new aquarists budget will not stretch to a 100 gallon aquarium then get a smaller one which is within budget. As long as it is known and understood that water quality is slightly harder to maintain in a smaller aquarium then why not get a smaller aquarium. It is better to get a smaller aquarium in my opinion than not get one at all.

If you are a beginner and do get a smaller aquarium then you will need to be vigilant with your feeding, your stocking levels, your water top ups as well as your water testing. As time progresses your self confidence and knowledge in the hobby will increase and this will make it easier.

Smaller aquariums in my opinion can actually be more interesting than the larger ones. In a small aquarium as you are not able to put as many corals, fish etc in as you can with the larger aquariums you can watch and study the aquarium inhabitants more closely. It also has the added benefit that the required equipment will not cost you as much.

As time progresses you may wish to invest in a larger aquarium or you may wish to downsize and go nano – or even pico however at the beginning, as said any aquarium is a ‘best size’ aquarium to start with as long as it is known that smaller aquariums require more careful management.

On a final note – when I say small aquarium I do not mean an aquarium which is very small – I would not recommend that any beginner start with an aquarium which has a water voluem which is less than 20 gallons.

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The Basic Kit For A Marine Aquarium Part One – Fish Only

Despite the number of modern books available and information on the internet confusion continues to arise with a newcomer. This confusion is sometimes caused by the book and/or the internet. Books could be out of date as far as equipment is concerned, and an internet forum could cause confusion by the different opinions expressed.

Another area of confusion and often ‘overspend’ is the LFS (local fish shop). Some are very good and will ascertain the level of experience of the aquarist, and what he/she is aiming for. However, there are those that don’t and these are the ones that cause trouble. The LFS, good or poor as far as the beginner is concerned, is there to make money. If they don’t make money they won’t be there much longer. So the beginner is told they must have this, they must have that, this will be all right, that should do. Unfortunately this all adds up to a fair amount of money and ‘should do’ actually is not good enough.

The Aquarium. (The glass or acrylic box it all goes in!)
First of all (having obtained the agreement of the wife/husband/partner – let’s play safe) a check of available space should be made. The position of the aquarium must be close to an electrical outlet and the outlet must be accessible when the aquarium is in position, it can be just to one side or just behind (but not in the middle). Also and important, check the strength of the floor to ensure it is strong enough. Concrete floors are fine and so are most suspended floors, but nevertheless check. An aquarium full of seawater and rocks is very heavy.

Once the available space is known then this is not necessarily the size of the aquarium that will be obtained. It is necessary to consider the overall cost and future running costs before making the commitment.

The Lights. (So the fish can see and be seen.)
On a fish only aquarium there aren’t any special requirements for lighting, but some care and forethought is nevertheless required. Two fluorescent tubes are normally sufficient and they should run the full length of the aquarium or as near as possible and be fitted with reflectors. One marine white tube and one blue (actinic) tube will enhance the colours of the fish. In addition these two tubes allow for a more natural ‘lights on and off’ sequence, by having the blue come on first followed ½ hour later by the white creates ‘dawn’, and in reverse creates ‘dusk’. This requires two electric timers.

The type of tubes doesn’t really matter, though T5 tubes which are driven by electronic ballasts are recommended.

The bio-filter. (The bacteria factory providing life support.)
The bio-filter (biological filter) is absolutely essential. If one is not present, or is inadequate, the livestock will suffer or die.

There are two ways of providing bio-filtration (there are more than two but two will be looked at). These are first live rock and second canister filters. It is necessary to roughly know the total gallonage of the aquarium. The gallonage is easily calculated by using the formula Length x Breadth x Height, the answer divided by 231 equals US gallons. Allow for a 1″ airspace at the top of the aquarium and 2″ at the bottom for a decorative sand bed.

Live rock is a natural product which is bought ‘cured’ from an LFS. ‘Cured’ means that any potential die-off of organisms has occurred and the rock is ready for introduction to the aquarium. The rock contains bacteria that deal with the production of toxic substances in the seawater; this process is called The Nitrogen Cycle. The usual quote for the amount of live rock is 2½ lbs per gallon. This guideline suffers from the fact that different live rock has different weights, so the supplier should advise the necessary amount required of the type being sold.

The live rock also acts as a natural décor for the aquarium interior.

A canister filter is a man-made device where seawater moves through a cylinder filled with bio-media. In and on the media are the bacteria. The seawater flow is powered by an electric motor. These devices are fully capable of maintaining a bio-filter. A check should be made that the device is capable of dealing with the gallonage of the aquarium; the manufacturer’s information should provide this.

Of the two bio-filtration methods live rock is the one recommended. This is because a product of the Nitrogen Cycle is nitrate. Within reason, live rock should deal with nitrate. The Nitrogen Cycle with a canister filter stops when nitrate is produced. This does not mean canister filters should not be used as nitrate can be controlled easily enough.

If a canister filter is to be used then the aquarist will need to purchase decorative rock for the aquarium aquascaping. This will not be live rock of course but dead inert rock. ‘Inert’ means that the rock is known to be totally safe in seawater; nothing will leach out that is detrimental. There isn’t a control on the amount used; it is up to the aquarist to create the aquascape desired. However, consideration of the fish is needed as they need swimming space, some more than others.

Powerheads. (These provide seawater movement.)
Seawater movement in an aquarium is required so that oxygen can be replenished and the general environment remains healthy. Though there are several ways to provide adequate seawater movement, powerheads are much used and fully acceptable. Here we deal with basic narrow outlet types, though there are also wide outlet types available. Narrow outlet types are perfectly adequate for a fish only system.

Usually at least two powerheads are used as this permits chaotic and random seawater flow to be created. One powerhead could go in one corner of the aquarium at the back, and the other powerhead in the other. The outlets, which generate linear flow, are directed at more or less the same place on the front glass. This means that the two flows interfere with one another and many swirls and multi-directional flows are created. It is usually necessary to experiment a little with the best positions for the powerheads to obtain the required effect, but it isn’t difficult.

The guideline for seawater movement is that the net gallonage should move 10 times per hour. So if two powerheads are being used each should be capable of moving half the gallonage 10 times per hour. For example, if the gallonage is 50, then the total required movement per hour is 500, so each powerhead needs to move 250 gallons. Note that this is a guideline not a rule – it is not critical.

Decorative Sand Bed. (It looks good.)
There isn’t a need for a decorative sand bed. It hasn’t a function except to make the aquarium look more natural, and cover up the bare glass bottom.

If a decorative sand bed is incorporated, then there are things to consider. First, it should be constructed of coarse coral sand, as this will not move around too much in the seawater currents and dirt will not penetrate too deeply too quickly. Second, rocks whether the live or inert variety should not rest on the sand. This should avoid rock falls and sand compression. So the rocks are first in then the sand. Last, the sand should be 1″ to 2″ deep. This depth will assist with cleaning by stirring when it becomes necessary to keep the bed looking at its best.

The Protein Skimmer. (Not last and not least.)
After the bio-filter the protein skimmer is, perhaps arguably, the most necessary device. The protein skimmer is a great aid to the maintenance of high quality seawater. In an aquarium organic substances are produced which are generally termed Dissolved Organic Matter (DOM). This is mainly undesirable.

The protein skimmer removes much of this DOM. All types of skimmer work on the same basis: seawater flows through a chamber where very high numbers of tiny air bubbles are present. The DOM is attracted to the air/water interface and ‘adheres’ to the bubbles. The bubbles rise and fall into a collection cup and periodically the collection cup is emptied.

Most skimmers used nowadays are electrically driven and use a ‘venturi’ device to draw air in. There are two types, stand alone and hang-on. With the basic aquarium set-up, where a sump (an additional tank under the display aquarium) is not used, the hang-on type is most useful.

Manufacturer’s are perhaps more accurate in their claims for the performance of their products nowadays, but nevertheless the following guideline applies: obtain a skimmer that is stated to be capable of handling around twice the gallonage of the aquarium. It is unlikely that a skimmer will be obtained that is stated to handle the aquarium gallonage exactly, so at least choose the skimmer higher up the scale, not one lower down.

The skimmer is said to be the number one ‘poor buy’. This means that many aquarists setting up a system try to economise on this item, only to discover the inadequacy of the device and their mistake later, resulting in another purchase and unnecessary expense.

Heaters. (Have to keep the fish cosy!)
The fish that will be kept are the colourful reef types, so the seawater needs to be kept warm, between 75 and 80 deg F. Many aquarists choose 77 deg F.

The method of keeping the seawater warm is to use a device called a heater/stat. This is like a long fairly thin tube, the more powerful the heater the longer the tube. The heater is turned on and off by the ‘stat (thermostat).

It is best to have two heaters. Though they are quite reliable nowadays, failure is not unknown and it is often the ‘stat that is the trouble. It either sticks in the ‘on’ or ‘off’ position, usually the ‘on’. This means that the heater continues to apply heat even when the seawater is at or above the required temperature. If there was one heater it would heat the seawater excessively too quickly with dangerous consequences for the fish. With two heater/stats this can be avoided to a considerable extent as each heater/stat is rated at half the power required. Therefore a safeguard is provided.

The guideline for selecting the heating requirement of the aquarium is: if the aquarium is in a heated room allow 2 watts per gallon of seawater. If the aquarium is in an unheated room allow 4 watts per gallon.

So, with 50 gallons of seawater and using two heater/stats, in a heated room the power requirement in watts (W) of each heater/stat will be 50 watts. In an unheated room the heater/stats would be rated at 100 watts apiece.

Seawater Test Kits. (Seawater quality is so important.)
In order to keep a high quality marine environment it is very necessary to routinely test the seawater, in addition to doing routine seawater changes. The test kits needed are easily available, not excessively expensive and easy to use.

The first requirement is a hydrometer. This is usually a one-time buy as it is re-usable. The hydrometer is a device that indicates the specific gravity (SG) of the seawater. In a fish only system the SG could be from 1.020 to 1.025. As there aren’t any corals present some aquarists keep the SG at 1.022 as it is thought there are some advantages for the fish at this level. However bear in mind that if there is a temptation to keep shrimps or the like (and the fish won’t eat them!) it’s best to keep the SG at 1.024 or 1.025.

Next are the tests that look for undesirables in the seawater. The three of interest are ammonia (a deadly toxin), nitrite (a toxin nearly as deadly), and nitrate (which is nowhere near as bad but at high levels undesirable). These all carry out a finite number of tests and a new kit will then be required.

Finally, a test for pH is needed. Seawater is alkaline and the pH test checks this. The pH reading should be between 8.0 and 8.4, and should also be stable. Again, the kit has a finite number of tests and a replacement will be required.

Dry Sea Salt. (Well, it is a marine aquarium!)
There are many different makes of dry sea salt available and this is a choice for the aquarist. The most salt will of course be used in the initial mix. Following that, routine seawater changes should be done weekly, and at least to start, 10% of the total gallonage should be changed.

A Reverse Osmosis Filter. (Makes good water.)
Though this is not a necessity for the basic aquarium, it is recommended. This is because much tap water contains undesirables.

When tap water runs through a reverse osmosis (RO) filter, the usable fresh water that emerges is 95 to 98% pure. Any contaminants have been removed. It can then be used with confidence with the dry sea salt.

The Cost. (Not the most exciting consideration.)
There are two costs to consider.

First, now that everything has been listed, that is, the aquarium and the necessary equipment, check prices at the LFS and on the internet. Note down those selected then add them up. The answer is the indicative cost of setting up the system.

Now list the electrical items. Find out the wattage (W) of each and write it down (the information should be on the packaging, the device, or the manufacturer’s information). Now add up the list of watts. This is the indicative total power requirement of the system.

However, not everything will be on all the time, lights and heaters being an example. An allowance is made for these. To calculate the ongoing electrical cost, use the article on this site called ‘A New Saltwater Aquarium – It’s Exciting But Check Running Costs’. The calculation is straightforward. Alternatively, use an online calculator; these are available on several marine forum sites.

If everything is acceptable, fine. If not, perhaps downsizing the aquarium would produce a positive outcome.

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Got Anything Salty That’s Of Interest?

There are marine aquarists and ex-marine aquarists out there who have had all sorts of experiences with this hobby, good, funny or bad. There’s little that aquarists like better than learning of other aquarist’s experiences.

Why not let everyone know of yours? Experienced or beginner, it doesn’t matter. It could be simply how you feed your fish, how much seawater you change, your frustrations with a noisy skimmer (I’ve had one of those!). Or it could be a sequence of events. Maybe you haven’t started yet and are worried about doing so – let us know the worries. The range of experiences and subjects that this hobby could cover is immense.

It really doesn’t matter that you’re not a professional writer. Or that you are. It doesn’t matter if you aren’t that good at spelling. It doesn’t matter how long or how short the text is.

What matters is that we want it, we’ll be interested and so will many others.

Peter will check to ensure that the text is marine aquarium related, this is for security purposes. Anything that is undesirable, such as swearing and other objectionable material, could be blocked. However, you’ll tell you’re tale after that check just as you intended.

So don’t be nervous. Don’t be worried about how you’re writing style ‘stands up’. Who cares, it doesn’t matter. Just tell your tale, we’re all interested.

If you haven’t your own website it doesn’t matter. If you have, we’ll provide a link-back. Everyone will have themselves acknowledged as the author.

It’s easy and it’s fun. Just go to the home page, click on the banner ‘Guest Post On Aquarists On Line’, fill in the small amount of information required and either upload from an existing file or write direct. Then click submit. Easy and straightforward!

An easier way is to go straight to the submission form which can be located here:

http://www.aquaristsonline.com/guest-post-on-aquarists-online/

Alternatively you can simply email the article into us.

Selected blogs could even be put into our articles section – but we’ll always ask your permission first.

So come on, have a go!

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If I Were Only Allowed One Small Fish!

There are so many choices of fish for fish only and reef systems. Fish only systems usually carry a higher number of inmates and these could be just about anything available at the LFS (local fish shop), the restrictions being the size of the aquarium and the compatibility of the fish types. Reef systems usually carry a lower number of fish and these are often smaller species, so that seawater quality is more easily maintained and the fish generally are more easily accommodated.

So fine, I’m only going to be allowed one small fish. It doesn’t matter if it is a fish only or reef system, that’s the lot! Oh, dear, what now?

I have favourite fish of course. One of them is that interestingly shaped and beautifully marked butterflyfish, the copperband, properly called Chelmon rostratus. This fish though very attractive has a drawback – it’s a bit of a lottery with feeding some will, some won’t. My luck would be that the one I had would turn out to be a ‘won’t’.

Ah, here’s a real contender, one of the dwarf angelfish. These have been called ‘God’s gift to aquarists’. They are beautiful but do not reach the size of the ‘normal’ angels such as Pomacanthus species. Yes, the flame angel (Centropyge loriculus) is really a contender – it is reasonably hardy, has a strong character and can be quite bossy if given the chance, but this usually isn’t a problem and in this case it wouldn’t be anyway being the only fish. They are easy to feed.

What about that attractor to the marine hobby, the so-called ‘common’ clownfish properly named Amphiprion ocellaris. I would guess that this fish has been responsible for quite a few people getting into the hobby. It is hardy, easy to feed and undeniably attractive. There is one drawback though, the fish likes an anemone and I would like to give it one, though they’ll live without. Unfortunately the one only rule means this fish isn’t the one (unless I try to argue that an anemone is not a fish so I can have one!).

How about a damsel? These are well known hardy fish and I have always admired the Fijian blue damsel properly called Chrysiptera cyanea. They feed very easily. However, admire it as I do it is not as beautiful as some others.

Then again there are the dottybacks. They can be scrappy and only one to an aquarium unless it is very large, but there is only to be one. Hmm, what about the ’flashback’ dottyback, Pseudochromis diadema? They’re an eye catching yellow with a light purple/red flash on the back, easy to feed and hardy. Well, maybe.

It could be a real problem this choice of one fish, there are so many worthy contenders it could go on and on. But it won’t. I know what I’ll choose.

At the back of my mind throughout has been one fish. This fish is not rare and is easily obtainable. It is not expensive. It is quite happy to live alone and feeds easily on many standard foods, particularly liking brine shrimp. It is a very beautiful fish. So what is this wonder of the salty world?

It is the Royal gramma, properly called Gramma loreto. It has been a favourite small fish of mine for a very long time. To my eye it is stunning, and if lit by blue (actinic) lights really shows up. The way the front half of the body colour changes gradually to the rear half is so much ‘better’ and sophisticated than the instant change of the bicolour dottyback Pseudochromis paccaguellae. The only ‘drawback’ is that if the fish is in a cave it could on occasion be seen floating belly up, which the aquarist doesn’t want to see his/her fish do! However, this is a known trait in this fish and shouldn’t be anything to worry about.

So I’ve picked my fish and it’s the Royal gramma. I don’t think I would be disappointed with my choice under the circumstances.

Having said that I’m glad that this is only a ‘what if’ situation, I can have whatever fish I desire in real life with the usual imposed limits. Nevertheless, the Royal gramma must be one of the most beautiful and desirable small fish available. If seawater quality is maintained, there shouldn’t be a problem with these hardy fish which are so suitable for a reef aquarium.

Here’s some more text and pictures:

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/grammas.htm

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Pointers To Success

The visit to the LFS when the decision is more or less made to ‘have a go’ at a marine aquarium is an exciting time. In the mind is a vision of those beautiful fish and corals sitting happy and healthy in a modern aquarium cabinet.

Sometimes the mind may go back to a time when goldfish were kept or maybe tropical freshwater fish, with the thought that things can’t be that more difficult. That’s correct, keeping a marine aquarium, even a reef system, is not particularly difficult, but it does present basic demands that must be met. Obviously there is salt water, but marine organisms require more specifics to be healthy.

Some aquarists could advise that it is a difficult hobby and also expensive. Well, I would argue with ‘difficult’, and expensive is a word appropriate to the weight of the wallet.

The budding aquarist needs to do some checks and research, nothing difficult but enough to greatly increase the prospect of success. There isn’t a need to understand complicated chemical formulas or anything else scientific, which could come later if the aquarist develops an interest. All that is needed is a basic understanding of the marine system, an understanding which develops as it is planned. The following is the very basic and initial foundation on which to begin planning.

Take time over the decision to buy.

A marine aquarium is desired and it is intended to buy one and keep it at home. Fine, don’t buy one! Carefully look at the space available and ensure there is a power outlet close by either to one side or just behind. Ensure the floor is strong enough.

Now consider if you are willing to give say two or three hours a week to maintenance. If not, the hobby is not for you. The life that is kept in the marine aquarium, whatever form it takes, demands our respect and care.

If the willingness is there, fine, but don’t buy anything! Consider carefully the system desired, fish only or reef. A reef requires more attention and usually costs more to set up. A fish only system allows fish to be kept that cannot be placed in a reef.

Research.

Now there’s a word to put many off. It is in reality straightforward nowadays, as there are many books available on fish only and reef aquarium construction, plus internet websites such as aquaristsonline.com. All the information is there waiting. Doing sufficient research will enhance the probability of success enormously.

This research doesn’t only apply to the purchase of the aquarium itself. It applies to the equipment required to service the fish only or reef system. Buying incorrect or inadequate equipment initially is going to be discovered later with problems and more expenditure. Obtain the correct size heaters, the correct size protein skimmer, correct lighting for the livestock etc. Research also applies to the future running cost of the system, mainly electricity. It is easy to get a guideline of future running costs before committal to purchase. Doing so will avoid surprises. If the running cost indication is too high then downsize the proposed system. Research everything properly. A clear time for more research when the point is reached is with livestock. This avoids providing a fish with a tasty and expensive shrimp lunch as an example!

Learn the hobby.

Actually this is automatic and follows on from the above research. If the budding aquarist does the research then understanding will follow on how the system works – the seawater temperature required, why a protein skimmer is needed etc. As already said, there isn’t a need to be a scientist or engineer, just a basic need for what equipment is for. In the future when the system is running it will make life easier and any small problems much easier to sort out.

Why not enroll in a good internet forum? There are a lot available and answers to specific questions are happily given. Be aware that there are varying opinions (aren’t there always?) and having a good book and/or reliable internet website will clear any confusion.

Patience.

Everyone has patience; it’s just that some have more of it than others! However, patience is a must, if it is a little short then use that other requirement to boost it – discipline. The worst thing that can occur when initially considering whether to have a marine aquarium or not is to rush. This continues throughout the system building process when selecting and buying equipment, as mistakes will be made and later, when the mistakes are rectified, it will cost more money. Worse, the livestock could be negatively affected causing worry, frustration and expense. Talking of livestock, rushing with purchases is disastrous, as incompatible life will not live together and if say the lighting is unsuitable the life could die.

The surprising part.

That’s it! Doesn’t seem much does it really?

Failing to plan is planning to fail.

The initial vision of a lovely and interesting marine aquarium set-up can be achieved without great depth of knowledge, but it cannot be achieved without knowledge. If patience, and discipline if necessary, is applied then the research will be done and an adequate system will emerge. Obtaining the aquarium and equipment are interesting in themselves. However, as filling the aquarium with seawater gets close, and the prospect of at last seeing some life in the aquarium approaches, the excitement and anticipation can strain the most patient and disciplined of people. Hold on, the aquarium will come alive soon, don’t spoil things now!

Just four words.

Time. Research. Learn. Patience.

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