Algae - It Makes A Lot Of People Give Up

Thousands upon thousands of potential aquarists make the decision to start a saltwater aquarium, be these fish only or reef aquariums all around the world. Unfortunately a lot of these aquarists ultimately give up in this amazing hobby.

There are many reasons as to why people give up. This could be personal finances, time, knowledge and many more, however a prime candidate unfortunately is algae.

Algae in the aquarium can look nice however in time this once ‘nice looking’ algae can turn into a pest and make the aquarium look unsightly. Before long the algae starts to cover the rocks, the sand, the glass and more. Every effort is made by the aquarist to clean this up perhaps by manually removing it, performing water changes, checking the water parameters, researching the possible causes etc however once one algae bloom is sorted before long another one may appear.

I appreciate that at this time the aquarist may become disheartened. I know I have been through this stage and can honestly say that algae blooms are a pain.

When people look into starting a saltwater aquarium they imagine an aquarium full of corals and fish which are so striking in colour and movement that the appearance of this unsightly algae is new to them. It is not what they wanted and try as they might it simply will not go away.

First to come may be a slight brown dusting of algae initially over the sand, second may come what looks like slime over the sand, perhaps the rock, after this long hair like algae may appear on the rocks and glass. Later algae which look like balls may appear!

It’s no wonder why aquarists consider giving up when the dream of a spotless saltwater aquarium is suddenly flawed with dirty looking algae!

Each of these different aspects of algae feed upon a different type of nutrient in the water. The trick to understanding how to clear the aquarium of the nuisance algae is to understand what it is feeding upon.

This is where the hard part starts. The reason for this is that since the algae is feeding upon a certain nutrient or nutrients in the water then a water test may not how this parameter as being a problem. A good example of this is phosphate. Phosphate is a common food for problematic algae however when a water test is performed the result is ok. This could be because the algae does not feed upon this type of nutrient or it could be that the algae has removed enough from the water for it not to show up on a water test!

The best thing to do if you encounter an algae bloom is determine what type of nutrient the algae is feeding upon and then remove its food source. For example if you have algae which is long and wavy then this is probably hair algae. Hair algae likes to feed upon nitrate and phosphate. In this example the best thing to do is attempt to reduce the nitrate in the aquarium by checking your feeding regime and increasing the amount of water changes performed to dilute the nitrate in the water column. To reduce/remove the phosphate levels it would be beneficial to introduce an element of phosphate remover for example a product like Rowaphos.

If you remove the food that the algae feeds upon then the algae bloom itself will reduce.

At the start of an aquariums life you need to remember that everything in the aquarium is new. All the pumps/powerheads will probably not have been submersed in water before, the sealant is new, the sand will be straight from the bag, the water will be sterile etc etc. From some of these certain elements may become evident in the water. A prime example of this is silicates from the sand - the slight brown dusting you see over the glass and sand is quite often caused by this. This aspect of algae quite often feeds upon silicates and will exist until its food source is exhausted.

I have seen aquariums entirely coated in this type of aquarium simply clear up overnight purely because the food source has gone.

In this example the silicates from the sand becomes exhausted and therefore the brown dusting disappears perhaps never to be seen again. In other areas if the aquarists is not diligent and does not perform the correct care and maintenance post identifying the food source then the algae blood can and perhaps will re-occur. There is no point in locating a problem, resolving it simply to allow it to raise its ugly head again.

The majority of aquariums when started do go through various algae blooms. This is the aquariums ways of becoming settled. Within time if the aquarist is patient and performs the correct care and maintenance then the blooms will slowly subside - hopefully never to appear again.

For all you new aquarists and the aquarists who are currently attempting to deal with an algae bloom I and many other aquarists understand what you are going through right now. The two things I can say is be patient and identify the bloom you are having issues with, identify its food source and eliminate it.

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Tags: Algae, Aquarium Maintenance, Care, Equipment, nitrate, phosphate

Nitrate - The Ongoing Problem

I answer numbers of questions concerning various aspects of marine aquarium keeping. Looking at the subjects of all these questions it seems one of the biggest problems that is faced by aquarists is excessive nitrate (NO3). If it is not a problem the subject seems to puzzle some.

It may be thought that I tire of the same question, but this is not so. Rather, I am pleased as it shows that aquarists are concerned about the welfare of their livestock and wish to understand how the problem could have arisen and how it could be dealt with.

Why are aquarists so concerned about nitrate levels? Probably because, along with phosphate (PO4), it is a known nutrient of nuisance algae, the horrible stuff that can show its ugly presence under certain circumstances. In addition, corals will tolerate nitrate badly in many cases, and in a lesser way the same can apply to fish.

I hope I will be forgiven for not repeating what is already in other articles on this website (or maybe I’m just lazy!). What I have done is note in brackets any relevant article and the path to it.

To get to ‘Articles’ simply click on the word at the top of the page or click the link.

First of all, nitrate is not a disaster in itself, in the way that a presence of ammonia (NH3) or nitrite (NO2) could be. Nitrate is a product of the so-called Nitrogen Cycle (see article ‘The Nitrogen Cycle‘ under the sub-heading ‘Filtration‘). The nitrogen cycle should be understood by all aquarists and is straightforward.

Nitrate will be produced in any marine system, the level being dependant on more than one factor - these include type of system, stocking level, and bio-filtration method. In addition, husbandry expertise should be included. Excessive nitrate levels are usually faced by new aquarists where experience has not had time to accrue, but the problem is not entirely restricted to the beginner.

First of all, how much nitrate is acceptable? There are guidelines of course, but it should be noted that an inability to meet the guideline does not mean disaster. However, a continuing effort to control the nitrate level to the guideline should be made (see article ‘Guideline Water Parameters‘ under the sub-heading ‘Water Quality’). For nitrate in a reef system, the guideline is 10ppm (parts per million) or less, and in a fish only system the same if possible, or as close to it as can be achieved.

It has been said that ‘the answer to pollution is dilution.’ This is correct for nitrate and the marine aquarium. Routine seawater changes should be carried out whether there is a nitrate presence or not, and the guideline is 10% of the total net system gallonage per week. This can be flexed somewhat according to need, but gives a base for a newcomer. In a well designed system that is not overstocked this in itself could be sufficient to control nitrate levels, where there are no other controls present.

To help prevent unwanted pollutants including nitrate getting into the aquarium, it is highly recommended that reverse osmosis water (‘super filtered’ tap water) is used. An aquarist could be surprised at the content of tap water (see article ‘Reverse Osmosis‘ under the sub-heading ’The Basics‘. Also see article ‘Should You Use Tap Water?‘ under the sub-heading ‘Water Quality‘). Reverse osmosis water should be used for the initial aquarium fill if possible, and also for evaporation top-ups and routine seawater change mixes.

The marine system should not be overstocked. Proper stocking allows for high water quality which by definition is lacking in nitrate (see article ‘Stocking The Salt Water Aquarium Part 1‘ and also Part 2 under the sub-heading ‘The Basics‘).

How does the type of filtration help?

If the aquarist is using live rock of sufficient quality and in sufficient quantity, this excellent filtration can deal with nitrate as it completes the full nitrogen cycle, the nitrate being released from the aquarium after conversion to a gas. This is ideal, of course, but the aquarist must be sure not to overload the filtration with fish.

If another bio-filtration type is in use, for example canister filters or trickle filters, then once the nitrogen cycle has reached the production of nitrate stage that is as far as it goes. Seawater routine changes and/or other methods of nitrate control are required. If the nitrate level is persistent, and is not reducing, or is even rising despite seawater changes, then there are methods to reduce it. One good introduction is to construct a DSB (deep sand bed) if possible (see the articles ‘Deep Sand Bed Construction‘ and ‘Deep Sand Beds‘ both under the sub-heading ’Filtration’).

Some aquarists who have a sump, or even utilise the display aquarium, use algae to assist in combating nitrate (and phosphate). This is the macro-algae Caulerpa (see the text ‘Caulerpa‘ - this is not under Articles, but can be found by going to the right side of the page and looking under ‘Categories’. Go down to the bottom of the list to ‘Problems’, and click on ‘Algae’, which is at the very bottom).

One point I will make here which is a repeat of what is stated elsewhere is to do with feeding. This is one of the major ways, probably the major way, that nitrate (and phosphate) get into the aquarium.

Overfeeding! Until experience has been obtained and the aquarist knows how much should be fed, it is very easy indeed to overfeed. It is often done because of anxiety as to whether the fish etc are getting sufficient to eat. Fish are very good at ‘begging.‘ The fish will often eat until they can eat no more - this is because they instinctively eat while there is food available. They do not know, as in the wild, when further food will be available. Unfortunately, when food is taken in to such an extent some can be excreted half digested which adds to the likelihood of nitrate. In addition, the aquarist can place too much food in the aquarium anyway, and the excess not taken by the fish sinks and generally rots. This leads to nitrate. It also follows that if the aquarium is overstocked then feeding is going to be excessive, and coupled with a newcomer’s inexperience which permits overfeeding anyway there is going to be even more nitrate. Digressing - in a newly set-up system this overfeeding can also put a potentially dangerous strain on the bio-filtration. (For feeding, see the article ‘Feeding Time!‘ under the sub-heading ‘Care and Maintenance’).

When it is considered that one gram (about a teaspoonful) of flake food with a protein content of 50% can convert to 336ppm (parts per million) of nitrate* then overfeeding causing a problem can be understood.

I hope that this text along with the articles noted will help to bring together the causes of, and methods of dealing with, nitrate.

(* Reference: Helmet Debelius & Hans A Bach. Marine Atlas)

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Tags: Aquarium Maintenance, Care, nitrate, phosphate, Problems, Water Quality

I’ve Got Bio-Balls, Will I Be Ok?

No, no, you’ve got the wrong end of the stick! It’s not some horrible problem at all, but to do with aquariums.

Marine aquariums need bio-filtration, and this is provided by bacteria. The bacteria of course need a place to live and to avail oneself of this free service from nature the aquarist must provide them with a suitable home.

The bacteria operate what is called the Nitrogen Cycle, either fully or in part. To operate in part is easy, all that is required is plenty of oxygen plus ammonia and then nitrite. The bacteria will change the ammonia to nitrite, and then the nitrite will be changed to nitrate. Ammonia and nitrite are toxic, and nitrate much less so.

To support livestock it is enough to do only as in the previous paragraph. The toxic ammonia and nitrite are dealt with. Nitrate is left and this should not harm anything at very low levels.

However, the levels will slowly increase beyond the guideline (for a reef system) which is 10ppm (parts per million) or less. One way of reducing the level is with routine seawater changes. These changes are good for other reasons and should be completed, however nitrate could increase in spite of them. Nitrate increases are not desirable as the appearance of nuisance algae may occur.

Nature has a remedy but it cannot occur where there is oxygen present in any normal amount. The bacteria that reduce nitrate need an environment that is very low in oxygen - this forces the bacteria to extract oxygen from the nitrate thus removing it (it converts to gas and escapes the aquarium).

So bio-balls are a good medium for oxygen hungry bacteria, but not for bacteria that deal with nitrate.

If nature is going to assist with nitrate reduction, a denitrator (a so-called nitrate ’reactor’) could be used. Better, live rock can be used. Live rock has surfaces that can be used by oxygen needing bacteria, and well inside are areas for the nitrate bacteria. Live rock with a DSB (deep sand bed) is even better.

So if an aquarist is using bio-balls the answer is yes, it will be all right, except that the bacteria will produce nitrate and that will be the end of nature’s assistance.

If bio-balls are in use in addition to sufficient live rock (and perhaps a DSB) then the bio-balls can be removed, but remove them a few at a time over a period of weeks. This will allow any bio-load that was supported by the balls to be taken up gradually by the other media.

If the bio-balls were the only media, then none must be removed straightaway. Introduce sufficient live rock into the aquarium, wait a week or two, then commence removing the bio-balls a few at a time as already described. It would be of little use introducing, say, a canister filter for bio-filtration as the end product is the same - nitrate.

A good few years ago bio-filtration methods included balls. Times have changed.

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Tags: Aquarium Filter, Aquarium Filtration, deep-sand-bed, live-rock, nitrate, nitrogen cycle

What Is A Sulphur Denitrator

Considering the maintenance of high quality seawater there are certain items we do not want to see at all, or at least wish to minimise them.

One parameter that often rears its head is nitrate. In the fish only aquarium nitrate can be allowed to rise a little, though personally I believe efforts should be made to keep it at the same level as a reef aquarium (the fish live on the wild reefs after all). The reef aquarium should ideally have no measurable nitrate, and the maximum guideline limit is 10 parts per million (ppm). This is because the reef system contains livestock that are more susceptible to trouble with high nitrate levels. Nitrate is also a nutrient for nuisance algae.

So how does the aquarist deal with nitrate. Firstly, it must be said that live rock and a deep sand bed (DSB) are recommended as filtration. If there is sufficient quality rock, the DSB is properly constructed, and feeding and routine maintenance are correctly done then nitrate may well never be a problem.

What if all efforts (including a careful examination of practices) fail to solve a persistent nitrate problem? It is at this point that the aquarist can consider a denitrator. There are two main types, one requires feeding and is a little more fiddly, and the other is a sulphur type which does not require feeding and will be considered here. These denitration devices are available commercially or can be DIY.

Basically, a normally tubular acrylic column is used which is filled with sulphur beads. Seawater is pumped through the sulphur at a very slow rate - this is a very fast drip when the device is mature. The action, by bacteria, takes place in a very low oxygen environment. As the bacteria do not have a ready oxygen supply, they are forced to use the nitrate, from which oxygen is extracted, breaking down the nitrate. Generally one molecule of nitrate is replaced by one molecule of sulphur. The sulphur has no detrimental affect on the seawater as it is present in a high percentage anyway. The only result to watch is that the output from the sulphur can be acidic. This is easily remedied by running it through some calcareous material before it returns to the aquarium.

Sulphur denitrators are efficient and easy to run. Should there be further interest I have added two links, the first descriptive and the second a DIY forum thread with pictures (ignore the sign-in prompt, it will disappear in a few seconds).

http://mars.reefkeepers.net/USHomePage/USArticles/SulphurDenitrator.htm

http://www.absolutereef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=951

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Tags: Aquarium Filtration, Aquarium Maintenance, Care, nitrate, saltwater-aquarium

Remember To Harvest The Algae In The Algae Bed

In a [tag-tec]saltwater aquarium[/tag-tec] it is preferential to have both nitrates and phosphate as well as various other nutrients at the lowest possible level you can achieve.

Growing algae in the sump or in the refugium is an excellent way to remove nutrients from the water column, good examples which are nitrate and phosphate.

Once established the algae in the sump/refugium can reduce the nutrients to a very low level.

So why would you want to harvest this algae when you have spent all this time trying to make it grow?

What happens is that the algae in the algae bed, dependant upon the species being grown will grow in line with the water movement which passes through the bed. Over time the algae will form quite a dense ‘forest’ of algae – so much to the extent that a lot of the light provided will not be able to penetrate through to the lower levels.

Now you may think that this is ok as the leaves at the top will be able to grow using the light provided, however what happens is that the leaves and/or plants lower down in the sump/refugium will actually die.

When most algae die the nutrients which have been processed are released back into the water column, therefore all those nutrients which have been removed are suddenly released back into the aquarium water.

There are times when the entire algae bed dies and all the nutrients are instantly released back into the aquarium. When this happens your system will be loaded with nutrients and various problems can occur.

Therefore when you grow macro algae in your [tag-ice]sump[/tag-ice] or [tag-tec]refugium[/tag-tec] it is imperative that from time to time you harvest it.

Basically harvesting the macro algae means thinning it out.

To harvest the algae simply remove some of the algae, but do not remove any of the roots as this will prevent it from growing back. I personally use an old pair of scissors and give the algae bed a haircut!

When you harvest the algae what you are doing is removing a lot of nutrient laden plant life from the water and exposing what remains to the light provided to them. The macro algae will then start to re-grow removing even from nutrients from the water column.

Over time the algae bed will re-grow and eventually it will be time to harvest it again.

It has been noted by numerous aquarists that harvesting the algae bed the number of algae bed crashes experienced has significantly reduced.

When you remove the algae do not be tempted to feed it to the aquarium inhabitants as you are effectively feeding nutrients back into the water. Either throw it away or give it away to another aquarist who is just starting a new algae bed.

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Tags: Algae, algae-bed, caulerpa, nitrate, phosphate

The Canister Filter - Any Use In The Marine Aquarium?

The canister filter has been in use for decades. Freshwater aquarists were the first to make use of them and they still do. Then along came the marine aquarium and the canister filter was employed to support those to. Canister filters have been around for so long that they are now very dependable and failures are rare.

[tag-tec]Aquarium filtration[/tag-tec] techniques have progressed considerably in the last decade or so. Aquarists strive to make their reef aquariums dependant on natural filtration as far as possible. The use of “live” rock is the major example. This rock can support the reef aquarium wonderfully, provided it is of sufficient quality and in sufficient quantity, and its capabilities are not abused by the aquarist. Live rock is probably the number one filtration method in use nowadays, in reef aquariums anyway. Another example of filtration is the DSB (deep sand bed) where natural methods provide support.

So what of the canister filter? With all these modern techniques perhaps the need for a canister filter is gone. Well, no it isn’t.

A [tag-ice]canister filter[/tag-ice] can be used to house activated carbon, or filter pads or wool, to assist in keeping the seawater pollutant clear and dirt free. Some aquarists have put chunks (around ½” to 1″ square) of live rock in the canister and report that the life within the canister is quite surprising - tube worms, tiny shrimps etc.

However, is the canister filter finished as far as a prime biological support function is concerned? No, it isn’t, is the answer (in my view). It is not the number one recommended marine biological filtration method nowadays, and rightly so. There are occasions though where the use of a canister filter is, what shall we say…convenient.

Live rock is very expensive, and there is little point in deciding to filter with it if sufficient quantity is not obtained. There are other decorative and marine suitable rocks that have no filtration capability, but are available at a far lower price. So the aquarist who finds the cost of live rock prohibitive is still able to consider a marine aquarium. Decorate with low cost rockwork and filter with a canister filter. There isn’t any need for a sump, another cost reduction.

I can nearly feel the hackles rising on some marine aquarists! But lets consider it further.

The low budget aquarist should, if finances allow, obtain two canister filters, though this is not absolutely necessary - canister filters are reliable as stated. One acts as a back up for the other. The compartments inside should contain coarse and fine filter material (the coarse before the fine). Following the filter material, and last in line, should come the biological media. This is easily obtainable and not too pricey. Sintered glass media is good, but there are others.

The canister filter is cleaned at least every four weeks, or as experience dictates. The coarse/fine filter material must be kept free flowing and the biological media protected from dirt. With two canisters, this can be achieved by cleaning one at two weeks, the other at four weeks, the first at six weeks etc. The biological media is not cleaned, just the coarse and fine filter materials. It goes without saying that the canister filters should have the correct capacity for the aquarium size they are to support.

Ah, I hear the question coming up! But canister filters are just nitrate factories aren’t they? Nitrate in excess is one thing the [tag-self]marine aquarium[/tag-self] doesn’t need.

Up to a point that is correct. A canister filter is a nitrate factory. But the production of nitrate is not exclusive to the canister, it is produced by any biological filtration system. Another filtration system will produce the same amount of nitrate as the canister with the same amount of ammonia to start with. It is the nitrogen cycle, the natural breakdown of toxics. There is a difference however. The canister filter is having oxygenated water pumped through it, which means that the nitrogen cycle can only progress as far as the production of nitrate. Live rock, for example, will hopefully complete the full nitrogen cycle, breaking down the nitrate into gas that is released from the aquarium. Routine seawater changes are recommended for all aquariums. Where a canister filter is in use (for biological purposes) the seawater change must be completed as it is one of the methods for reducing nitrate. The aquarist using a canister can consider completing the nitrogen cycle by other means. A denitrator will remove nitrate efficiently, so that is an option. Sulphur denitrators are the best option (in my opinion).

Now things have become more complicated again. If denitrators are to be considered then, coupled with the cost of non-live decorative rock, and the canister filter(s), plus the bio media, the cost is rising. The option for a canister filter seems only sensible when a smallish aquarium is obtained (for example, seawater changes are more manageable and less costly). Larger aquariums seem better with live rock even though the overall cost is high.

This is not a recommendation for canister filters over other filtration methods. It is my opinion that live rock, coupled with a DSB in a sump, is a very good filtration option. However, for a smallish aquarium where water changes are not a problem and the bio-load is not particularly heavy, the canister filter remains a viable biological support possibility. The aquarist should, of course, cost the options very carefully, and use live rock where possible.

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Tags: filter-reef-tank, filtration, live-rock, nitrate, saltwater-aquarium

Algae Blooms In Saltwater Aquariums

At various stages of the saltwater aquariums life there will be various algae blooms that will occur.

When these occur the aquarist should not feel despondant.

What you really need to do is look into why the particular algae bloom has happened in the first place. [Read more]

Tags: Algae, algae-bloom, nitrate, phosphate, saltwater-aquarium

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