Ozone

Oxygen is represented as O2, ozone is O3. So it can be seen it is oxygen with an extra! Ozone is unstable and breaks down into oxygen quickly. It can be detected by smell if it is present in enough quantity. Some retail stores use it on their seawater, usually in conjunction with protein skimmers, though UV sterilizers have superseded ozone to a large extent. It could also sometimes be used in public swimming pools and sometimes even in sewerage processing plants.

Ozone is a strong disinfectant and oxidizer. It is because of this that it has been found useful by a few aquarists in the maintenance of high quality seawater.

At the very start I would suggest that a beginner, or a novice with a few months experience, should steer clear of ozone, at least until there is enough experience to maintain quality seawater and keep livestock healthy. By this time the aquarist will no doubt have decided that there isn’t much point in using ozone! Fair enough, the use of ozone in the home aquarium is fairly rare. This is good as ozone can be very damaging if misused.

Ozone is normally used in conjunction with a protein skimmer and the first requirement is to ensure that the skimmer is ozone resistant – the information that came with the skimmer will advise this, or a phone call to the manufacturer should do the trick.

The ozone is produced by an ozonizer, or ozone generator. This works by passing oxygen through a high voltage discharge. The ozonizer will work with ordinary air but is less efficient by perhaps 50% if the air is damp. Therefore the pump supplying the air is usually connected to an air dryer. This can be a specialist piece of equipment, or a container with silica gel. The silica gel needs to be changed regularly, and the used gel regenerated.

Using a larger ozonizer in the belief that air drying won’t be needed should not be done. There is the potential for an ozone overdose which could have dire consequences.

So the ozone is passed into a protein skimmer when the efficiency of the skimmer will notably increase. This is because ozone is a strong oxidizer, more so than oxygen (O2) alone. To ensure that ozone doesn’t pass into the aquarium the seawater leaving the protein skimmer should be passed through activated carbon. The carbon should be regularly changed for new.

Aquariums using ozone should have really clean seawater with some advantages. However, there are clear dangers. If the aquarium is badly overdosed with ozone all livestock could be lost. If slightly overdosed then livestock could be adversely affected. Ozone is also dangerous to the aquarist – if ozone can be detected by smell then too much is being generated. As already said, ensure the generator cannot overdose by not buying one that is too large.

So how much ozone should be applied? The guideline is that 5 mg and no more than 10 mg should be dosed per hour for each 100 litres (circa 26.5 US gallons) of seawater in the whole system. So it is very important that the aquarist knows the net gallonage.

With an efficient and properly sized protein skimmer and a high standard of husbandry maintaining a good environment, I don’t see a reason why a home aquarist would want to employ ozone. The aquarium should be in fine condition without it.

So if I’m not a fan of ozone, why write about it? Well, I have on occasion seen new aquarists reading packaging on ozone generators and they may think that they are worthwhile if they ‘enhance’ the aquarium, particularly if the skimmer manufacturer advises that their product is ozone resistant. There are dangers that should be known.

In the correct hands ozone can be a useful tool, but for most home aquarists it is not needed and is best left alone.

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The Essential Bacterial Service

There is one area in the aquarium no matter if it is fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium that the aquarist must have. If it is missing or inefficient there will be failure or trouble without doubt.

It is generally known as the bio-filter (bio = biological). Some aquarists prefer to name it ‘the life support system’ which is an apt description. Bio-filtration can be provided in more than one way though it all operates on the same principle. In addition the aquarist will be working with Mother Nature as it is bacteria that are relied upon.

Though it is commonly called bio-filtration as said, the bacterial activity that is occurring within the filter is nitrification and denitrification, under the overall heading ‘The Nitrogen Cycle’.

When livestock go through their life functions from day to day ammonia is produced, and ammonia is a deadly toxin. Fish produce the most. In addition rotting food leftovers and dead algae break down and produce more toxins. If there weren’t any bacteria then the fish would start to act strangely, swimming erratically and breathing heavily. Finally they would die, poisoned by the ammonia, so it is clear that the bio-filtration must be present and adequate.

One relevant point that can be made is that an efficient protein skimmer should be used. This is because the skimmer will remove dissolved organics from the seawater before the bio-filter needs to start work on it, thus reducing the work of the bacteria. A protein skimmer does not remove the need for a bio-filter.

How does The Nitrogen Cycle work? Toxic ammonia is the first problem, and bacteria (Nitrosomonas) are present in the bio-filter to deal with this. The ammonia is converted to nitrite.

Unfortunately nitrite is also a toxin, nearly as bad as ammonia, so bacteria (Nitrobacter) are again present to deal with it. The nitrite is converted into nitrate which is not considered toxic, though it is detrimental to livestock at a high level.

It is important that the seawater contains a high level of oxygen as the bacteria converting ammonia and nitrite are oxygen hungry. The term ‘nitrification’ covers the conversion of ammonia and nitrite.

The Nitrogen Cycle ends once the nitrate has been converted by bacteria into gas which escapes from the aquarium at air/water interfaces. This breakdown of nitrate is termed denitrification. The bacteria, in order to break down the nitrate, need a very low oxygen environment. This is because if oxygen were present the bacteria would use it and nitrate would not be reduced. Without an adequate oxygen presence the bacteria extract their oxygen needs from the nitrate, thus breaking it down.

So overall The Nitrogen Cycle is the conversion of ammonia to nitrite, and nitrite to nitrate. Then follows the conversion of nitrate to gas.

Giving the bacteria a home in the aquarium so that they can efficiently carry out their work is easy. First, the design of the aquarium should allow for optimum gas exchange which will permit high oxygen levels in the seawater. Next the media for the bacteria can be considered.

Nowadays the number one recommendation for bio-filtration is live rock. This is so called because the rock naturally harbours the needed bacteria, all of them, those that convert ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The first two are near or at the surface of the rock, and the third deeper inside where oxygen is not plentiful. It is an excellent medium and in addition provides the aquarist with a natural aquascaping material for a captive reef or in a fish only system. Rock quality must be good and there must be sufficient to meet the demand of the livestock. Live rock is expensive because of the weight which is unfortunate, but nevertheless it should be a first consideration.

If live rock is not used, there are other methods. Probably the easiest is the canister filter, as a huge area of filter media can be provided and setting it up is straightforward. It is important to ensure that the amount of media can cope with the livestock present, so reference to the manufacturer’s recommendations should be made. The media when obtained will be ‘dead’, without any bacteria present. Bacteria are easily introduced by using one of the commercially produced ‘inoculation’ fluids which are easily obtainable. The information supplied should be carefully followed and tests made as instructed.

There is a shortfall with canister filters and similar devices in that the seawater being pumped through the media is oxygen rich. This is excellent for the bacteria that convert ammonia and nitrite, but nitrate will not be touched. Therefore there will be a slow build-up of nitrate in the seawater. I used the word ‘shortfall’ not ‘problem’ as it is easily dealt with. If the aquarist carries out routine seawater changes then the nitrate presence will be continually diluted and should be kept down to reasonable levels. 10% of the system net gallonage is the guideline for initial changes but if necessary this can be increased up to around a limit of 25%. If this is not sufficient to control nitrate then there is something amiss – the system is overloaded with livestock, or the aquarist is overfeeding and the like. There are ways to reduce nitrate by filtration using bacteria (the denitrator filter) but this will not be gone into here. There are other ways too but again they will not be gone into here.

The aim of every aquarist is to own a successful aquarium. There is equipment available to make this more possible. However, at the very heart of the system are the bacteria, essential to every system of whatever type, big or small.

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Marine Aquarium Equipment – The No. 1

The aquarist nowadays has quite a choice of support equipment available. All this aquarium equipment, along with routine seawater changes, makes keeping high quality seawater easier. This is very important for the livestock be they fish or corals or whatever.

‘High quality seawater’ means something a little different to each aquarist. One aquarist may keep a fish only system, another a soft coral reef, and another a hard coral (SPS) system. The quality depends on what is being demanded.

Basic high quality is seawater without any toxins (ammonia and nitrite), at the correct pH, at the correct temperature and with a low nitrate presence. The quality is generally stable.

Basic seawater could be found in a fish only system. Nitrate is the usual problem with these, if there is a problem.

In the soft coral reef, in addition to the ‘basic’ quality, will be the alkalinity level and possibly also the calcium presence. Alkalinity resists changes in pH, and also appears to assist in the appearance of encrusting decorative algae. There is also a low demand for calcium, which could be met by the dry salt mix or, if not, by an additive.

The hard SPS (small polyp stony) coral reef has the same requirements as the soft coral one but again with additions. The aquarist will keep a closer watch on calcium and perhaps one or two others. SPS corals have a higher demand for calcium and, depending on stocking, it probably will not be met by the dry salt mix so an additive is required. In the larger aquarium, a calcium reactor could be used.

The above paragraphs are not meant to be a list of different system requirements, only to give a start to the support equipment needed and the choice of ‘the most important’. Of course it can be argued that all are important for the needs of different systems. How about an auto top-up system for example, particularly on larger aquariums? Keeping the level correct reduces salinity instability. In the same way there are calcium reactors, exterior heater controllers, kalkwasser stirrers, lighting timers, powerheads for seawater movement, return pumps for use in a sump etc.

Specific equipment is important to a particular system, and perhaps useful but less important to another. So is there a general piece of equipment that could be of use, or better put, is of use to all systems?

What is it that often rears its unwanted head and can cause trouble for the aquarist? Unsightly algae could appear which, if present in quantity, may drive the aquarist to near despair and spoil an otherwise lovely display. More sensitive corals and even fish are affected by too high a presence. It could appear in any type system, fish only, soft or SPS reef.

Nitrate is the answer. In a reef system the guideline is 10 ppm (parts per million) or less – in a fish only preferably the same, but at least as low as possible. Nitrate is controlled by proper stocking (particularly fish), careful feeding and routine partial seawater changes. Nevertheless, nitrate is often in excess.

Nitrate is a product of the nitrogen cycle which occurs in the bio-filter. Bacteria convert toxins and eventually the resulting nitrate (if live rock is in use in sufficient quantity and quality) is broken down and released from the seawater as a gas. Yet nitrate could get to excess levels despite this. Where the bio-filter is contained in a canister filter the nitrate is the end product and without care will continue to rise.

This is our clue – what piece of equipment can be of use in all systems and combat nitrate? The answer of course is the protein skimmer. This piece of well known equipment is benevolent to all system types (except specific ‘mud’ though many aquarists use a protein skimmer anyway).

Generally seawater moves through the skimmer steadily and dissolved organic matter (DOM) is removed. This improves the seawater straightaway as excessive DOM is not required. (It is known that corals, or at least some of them, can make use of DOM as a food source, but DOM should not be in excess.)

What is really good is that the DOM is removed entirely from the seawater and stored. Not being in the seawater the bacteria in the bio-filter cannot act on it, in other words it is no longer a source for nitrate. The protein skimmer is not the total answer for nitrate but is very helpful.

Even without that aspect, just look at the yukky brown smelly gunk that could appear in the collection cup. It must be better with that out of the seawater!

So, disregarding equipment that is essential to life itself such as heaters, my choice for the number one piece of general marine system support equipment is the protein skimmer.

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The Protein Skimmer And The Nano Reef Aquarium

Nano aquariums are small, ranging from the very small of 10 gallons or a little less to around 30 gallons or so. They are popular, at least partly because they have the advantage of being able to fit almost anywhere, so the aquarist pushed for space doesn’t need to do without.

The big thing (if I can put it that way!) with a nano aquarium is they are relatively inexpensive to set up, stock and run. Having said that, all the considerations required for a large or very large aquarium apply, such as heating needs, stocking limits etc. Obviously the choice of livestock is restricted, for example a surgeon fish should not be in a nano.

The equipment considered for marine aquariums includes a protein skimmer. Though some manufacturers have improved, skimmers are often purchased with a capacity of around twice the aquarium net gallonage to make up for any ambitious claims by manufacturers. With some nano aquariums the difficulty would be finding a skimmer small enough.

That is often the problem – finding a skimmer that is physically small enough to fit the aquarium. With an aquarium of, say, 30 or even 20 gallons a hang-on skimmer could be found that will fit. However, the very small nano aquarium will often present difficulties, at least those that are being put together by the aquarist could. If a small nano aquarium is being marketed as a complete piece of equipment, and there are a few available, then perhaps the manufacturer has fitted a skimmer. The aquarist who is putting one together could check to see if that particular manufacturer also sells skimmers of the same specifications as a separate item. If so, perhaps there’s the answer.

Failing to obtain a suitable skimmer locally means trawling the internet to see which manufacturers produce what skimmers. Normally it is a hang-on variety that is used. If none suitable can be found what can be done?

The protein skimmer is an essential piece of equipment, and a great many aquarists support this view including me. This is all well and good, but what if a skimmer just cannot be found that will fit?

The first action that could be considered is the use of activated carbon. This media adsorbs dissolved organics and might be thought suitable instead of a skimmer. However, as I understand it the skimmer and carbon are effective on different organics. Nevertheless, in the absence of a skimmer activated carbon could be used. It should be regularly changed and preferably be in a pumped container such as a small canister filter – this will ensure adequate seawater flow through the media.

The second action is one that should be undertaken with any aquarium no matter what the size is, and that is to carry out routine seawater changes. The normal guideline for starting routine changes is 10% of the system net gallonage (this is often varied as the aquarist gains experience, both in personal knowledge and of the particular aquarium).

A great advantage of the nano aquarium is that it does not hold a lot of seawater, the very small ones as said perhaps 10 gallons or so. Obviously 10% of 10 gallons is 1 gallon. Doing a seawater change isn’t going to break the bank! So if there isn’t a skimmer and the aquarist wishes to minimize dissolved organic concentrations in the seawater, then the amount of each routine seawater change could be increased. This would have to be built up by the aquarist on experience, though there are some difficulties with this, as the test kits for organics commercially produced I am advised do not measure the organics that skimmers remove. Helpful! It should also be noted that seawater changes that are too large are not helpful because the mix is ‘raw’ and disliked by livestock. Generally 25% is the upper limit and this should be much more than enough.

The aquarist should ensure the minimum routine seawater change is completed weekly, and at the same time keep a watch for two things – first, the seawater should not have any slow bursting bubbles and/or oily and perhaps dusty looking film on its surface, and second there shouldn’t be any yellowing of the seawater, even slightly. This yellowing is termed ‘gilvin.’ If pale it is difficult to see and, though not required weekly, an occasional check should be made as follows. Take a white saucer or small plate and place it upright inside the aquarium at one end. Alternatively, tape a piece of white paper to the outside of the aquarium at one end. From the other end looking down the full length of the aquarium, check for any sign of yellow. It is unlikely that there will be if activated carbon is in use.

The protein skimmer is a wonderful device assisting the aquarist a great deal in the maintenance of high quality seawater. However, if the nano aquarium is just too small to make use of one, then the other advantage of the nano can be taken advantage of – very affordable seawater changes.

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DIY Protein Skimmers

The protein skimmer is considered to be an essential piece of equipment nowadays and assists greatly in the maintenance of high quality seawater. The device removes much of the dissolved organic material (DOM) that could accumulate. Anyone who has seen the dark stinky ‘yuk’ in a protein skimmer collection cup will never be without one.

All protein skimmers work on the same principle and manufacturers do not have any secret methods. What they do have is the expertise and mechanization to mass produce. There isn’t a need to buy a commercial unit however, provided the aquarist has some confidence in his/her DIY ability, and also has access to the required materials. Most have this access nowadays, if not locally through the internet.

If the aquarist takes a little time and carefully looks at a protein skimmer in a shop or at a friend’s it will be seen that they are basically simple. Seawater is moved from the aquarium and through a bubble chamber where the DOM is removed and collected in a cup. The method of moving the seawater and creating the bubbles vary.

This is not an attempt to advise that commercial products are poor – many are very good indeed and do the job well. However, they’re not the cheapest devices on the market! A basically competent DIYer can save money and still have a skimmer that does a good job, and also have the pride of ‘I did that.’ Most aquarists go for the commercial products and fair enough, but some…well, why not?

Seeing some of the skimmer plans for the first time can be a little daunting, but they’re not as bad as they first appear. Here’s a link and there is useful information here too in addition to plans:

http://saltaquariums.about.com/od/diyskimmerplans/DIY_Protein_Skimmer_Plans.htm

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Don’t Skimp On Your Protein Skimmer

There are various items of equipment that assist the aquarist, the items differing depending on whether the system is fish only or reef. For example, the reef system, particularly if it is quite large and contains hard corals, could use a calcium reactor – it would be unusual for one to be used on a fish only system.

There are items of equipment that are common to both systems, and an obvious example is heating, normally combined heater/thermostats. Another item that is common to both is the protein skimmer.

The protein skimmer is probably the best equipment aid to seawater quality that the aquarist owns. It therefore makes good sense to take a little care in choosing it.

Protein skimmers use a pump to pass seawater through a chamber where it is exposed to an air/water interface. This interface is created in the majority of skimmers by the use of a venturi valve. Put simply, an air inlet of a particular size is positioned just before the pump impellor. As the pump moves the seawater air is sucked in through the inlet. The air and seawater pass through the impellor where the air is thrashed into tiny bubbles, huge numbers of them. There are variations on this impellor/seawater/air theme but the principle remains the same.

When considering the purchase of a protein skimmer, the first piece of knowledge that the aquarist requires is the net gallonage of the system, which means that the gallonage of the display aquarium and any sump in use should be combined. It is not necessary for this gallonage figure to be accurate, but should be a reasonable approximation if the true figure is not known. Remember it is the net gallonage, that is the seawater amount after displacement by rocks and sand.

The net gallonage of the system is required so that the protein skimmer can be adequately sized. Manufacturer’s quote the amount of seawater that a particular protein skimmer can cope with, and sometimes these quotes are ambitious. The usual method is to obtain a skimmer that is quoted as capable of dealing with twice the seawater that the aquarist actually has. Having said that, of late some manufacturers have been more realistic with their quotes, offering a range of skimmers. Nevertheless, purchase the chosen unit on the plus side, that is, obtain one that is quoted above the known seawater amount.

So which protein skimmer should be obtained? There are two types that mainly interest the aquarist, and these are the ‘hang-on’ and ’stand-alone.’ The descriptions are generally self explanatory – the ‘hang-on’ type is useful for aquarists who wish to place it on the display aquarium but wish to minimise the sight of it within the aquarium, and the ‘stand-alone’ is usually used alongside a sump. Some models are adaptable to both types. Skimmers are supplied with pumps adequate for their purpose.

Having decided the type, the aquarist now needs to pick a model. As with most things, some are better than others.

The skimmer should be properly designed and if skimmers can be seen running then a general simple check will indicate that this is so. The first thing to look at is the bubble generation. Skimmers have a bubble chamber, and this chamber should be a milky white colour, or somewhere near it, and packed with bubbles. The bubbles themselves should be very small. Also listen to the noise of the unit – if it is going into the lounge for example the noise needs to be very low.

Also examine the skimmer and be sure that it is serviceable bearing in mind the location it will be in. For example, during a cleaning exercise the cup needs to be removed from the unit, and this means lifting it upwards. If in a sump, is there room?

When the aquarist cannot see a skimmer operating, then it is best to note down the names of a few types that appear to be suitable. Using the internet, have a look at any reviews that could be available, and note the comments made. Also make enquiries on forums, so that other aquarists who have experience of the skimmer can make a comment. A visit to the manufacturer’s website could also be made, to obtain the specifications of the model(s) of interest.

As already said a protein skimmer is important, and it is very worthwhile giving time for research and checking the performance, as far as possible, of any particular model.

There are other types of skimmer in addition to the venturi models, such as air driven and down-draught types. The venturi skimmers are the most used.

To round off, why is a protein skimmer important? It has already been stated that they are a tremendous aid to seawater quality. This is because a protein skimmer removes dissolved organic matter (DOM). The seawater passing through the bubble chamber will usually be loaded with DOM (the load varies because of circumstances). DOM molecules both repel water (hydrophobic) and are water soluble (hydrophilic). When they are in very close proximity to air, as they are in the bubble chamber, the water repellent part attaches to a bubble. Many molecules can attach to a single bubble in this way.

As the bubbles slowly ascend in the bubble chamber, the DOM molecules go with them. At the top, the foam created because of the attached molecules is stiff, and rises up the neck of the skimmer, and then falls into the collection cup, where periodically it can be removed. Therefore the seawater quality is optimised.

It is important that a protein skimmer is regularly cleaned (the neck and cup) or the efficiency of the unit will be reduced.

The downside of a protein skimmer is that it will not only remove DOM but will also remove trace elements that are better left in the seawater. However, because of the great value of the skimmer this is disregarded. If the aquarist does routine seawater changes then the new seawater will introduce trace elements.

When the dark and smelly effluent that collects in the skimmer cup has been seen, it becomes obvious why they are such an asset.

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The Protein Skimmer – What Is Wet And Dry Foam?

In a saltwater aquarium there are various devices that are designed to assist in the maintenance of high quality seawater. Perhaps the most useful of these is the protein skimmer (ignoring bio-filtration).

As with all devices for it to be at its most effective it must be adjusted correctly. First though, the skimmer must be appropriate to the size of the system.

The normal way of sizing a skimmer is to simply double the net gallonage of the entire system, then find a skimmer that can deal with about that amount. This is a guideline only, and is designed to overcome the sometimes optimistic claims of manufacturers. As long as the skimmer is not a long way short of the guideline it should suffice. Having said that, some manufacturers seem to be more realistic of late with the potential performance of their skimmers.

Skimmers are available as ‘hang-on’ and stand alone, and it is the aquarist who decides which is the most practical. For example, if there isn’t a sump then a ‘hang-on’ is probably the best choice.

It is also important to ensure as far as possible that the model chosen is a good one. Internet forums are useful for this, though there are likely to be some differences in opinion. Maybe more useful, sometimes a local retailer has hobby-sized skimmers running on aquariums, and these can be judged quite easily. First of all, look at the chamber where the bubble/water interaction takes place. The bubbles should be very small and in very great numbers – the bubble chamber should be full of them and coloured white (ish). One respected manufacturer states that the important things about a skimmer are ‘design, air output, air output, and air output.’ Also look at the collection cup, hopefully the skimmate (the dirty liquid inside) will be dark coloured. (This colouration has a lot to do with the way a skimmer is set-up and the amount of dissolved organics available, so a visual check is not entirely reliable.)

So the foam. This is the foam that forms at the surface of the bubble chamber and rises up the throat towards the collection cup. In a badly set skimmer, foam rises very rapidly in the throat and dribbles nearly continuously into the collection cup. The foam can be seen to collapse immediately or nearly so. The skimmate collected is weak in colour and thin. The cause of this is usually the bubble setting, where the amount of bubbles being produced is too high. This is the so-called wet foam.

At the other end, the foam may not rise very much at all, but when any gets into the collection cup it is thick and dark. The foam can be seen to be stiff, and is very slow to collapse. In this case, the setting is not far from being correct. This is the so-called dry foam.

The general ideal is where the settings produce many bubbles, but the foam does not get into the collection cup all the time. The foam may rise up the throat only to fall back when the rise begins again, and it is stiff and not too quick to collapse. When dissolved organics are present, the foam rises and enters the collection cup readily. It is dark, thick and can be smelly.

The manufacturer’s instructions should be followed initially, setting the device as suggested. Make sure the foam does not flow into the collection cup too rapidly, but allow the skimmer time to settle for a few days, as foam production is often affected by the manufacturing process. Once this time period has passed, trial and error will show the best settings for an individual aquarium. There needs to be good bubble production, which is controlled by the air intake setting, balanced with the appropriate flow rate.

A skimmer does not usually produce skimmate continuously, but will react to any dissolved organics. Some additives cause a reaction, and the addition of foods, such as some frozen types, usually will too.

Once the settings have been arrived at, usually they can be left alone. It is important to clean the throat (and collection cup) of the skimmer, as the sludge in the throat will adversely affect performance. When cleaning is done, skimmers often needs a short settling period again before full performance returns.

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