Red Slime Algae And Its Control
January 9, 2008
The questions that arise about algae seem continuous, particularly those algae types that are considered a nuisance. New aquarists running a fish only aquarium or a reef aquarium can be subjected to the displeasure of nuisance algae, and the methods of dealing with the problem are all basically the same with small variations.
This question mentions the word ‘red’. Red algae is wonderful, being highly decorous. It is the family Rhodophyta and can be calcareous and all sorts of shapes with varying heights. The high water quality that is more normal nowadays has made the keeping of this type of algae possible.
The picture is spoiled by the word ‘slime’. This descriptive word itself suggests undesirable, and points to [tag-tec]Cyanobacteria[/tag-tec] (name from the microbiology world*), otherwise commonly known as blue green algae. There’s no word ‘red’ there! As I understand it, there is still a dispute among scientists on what this nuisance growth is – in the world of botany* it is known as Cyanophyta – blue green plants. It seems the life form has more in common with bacteria than plants*.
So what has all this got to do with red? Well, despite the name the algae (let’s stick to the name algae, I’m no scientist) can occur as blue green, red and black. Helpful eh! No problem though, whatever the colour appears to be the aquarist will know what it is. It appears as a very thin coating which slowly or quickly spreads. Left alone and without any remedial action being taken, it will spread and cover sand and rocks. Life below will die. So obviously it is not wanted. Another description is smear algae, which describes it well.
So what weapons are at the disposal of the aquarist? Here we go again – high water quality! If any of this algae is spotted the aquarist should check the levels of [tag-self]nitrate[/tag-self] and [tag-self]phosphate[/tag-self] in the seawater. High nutrient levels are normally the major cause. Reduce the nutrients by not overfeeding and carrying out routine water changes. The lack of nutrients will starve the algae, but it will not disappear instantly. The good news is that this smear algae can be siphoned out of the aquarium fairly easily, so this procedure can be carried out at a water change. As time progresses, it could re-appear, so water changing and siphoning could continue for a while (routine water changing should continue of course).
In addition to the above, to prevent re-occurrence the aquarist should check the water circulation for two reasons. First, the algae does not like good water movement (because it is not adhered strongly?) and, second, good water circulation will mean efficient gas exchange. If gas exchange is good, then the seawater will have a high oxygen content and a high redox potential. The algae doesn’t do so well in this clean environment.
So the plan of attack is straightforward.
(*Reference: Helmut Debelius & Hans A. Baensch – Marine Atlas)
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Natural Algae Control – Does It Work?
December 4, 2007
This question is posed by many aquarists, whether their pride and joy is a reef aquarium or fish only aquarium. Algae can be a terrific addition to the system, if the aquarist wants it.
Algae can be a friend to the aquarist, either in the sump or even the display aquarium, in the control of nitrates and phosphates. Caulerpa is the type normally used for this purpose. Encrusting [tag-tec]calcareous algae[/tag-tec] is also a welcome addition, as it appears in lovely colours and enhances the display. Algae can also be a pain, in some cases causing the aquarist to nearly tear his/her hair out.
The very first point when discussing algae control is that the seawater should be of high quality, with very low measurements of nitrate and phosphate. Nitrate should be below 10ppm (parts per million) particularly in a reef system, (a fish only system can go somewhat higher but levels should be minimised) and phosphate not higher than 0.03ppm. It is probably better that the levels are undetectable. Nitrate and phosphate are known nuisance algae nutrients. To assist desirable calcareous algae, calcium and alkalinity should be controlled. In a hard reef aquarium, calcium will be probably added, but other systems can benefit from around 400ppm or higher as well. Alkalinity can be kept at a level (it will fluctuate) of 3.0 to 4.0 meq/l – this is higher than natural seawater but is advantageous.
[Read more]
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What Is The Best Algae Eater?
November 6, 2007
That is a difficult question, and one which I cannot directly answer because most algae eaters have a type they are most fond of and many of these creatures may well ignore other types. What needs to be done is consider the algae that is causing a problem and hopefully choose a creature to eat it.
The first creatures to consider are fish. Many fish are herbivorous and continue this habit in the aquarium. With some fish algae is an essential, and a lack of it could cause health problems. The numbers of herbivorous fish are too high to go through one by one, but two in particular will be very generally mentioned, using their common group name.
The first fish are the so called rabbit fishes (a well known one among these is the yellow ‘Foxface,‘ Lo vulpinus). These fish will eat algae provided by the aquarist along with normal food. They will also often eat [tag-tec]hair algae[/tag-tec] within their limits (a lone rabbit fish cannot be expected to control a serious problem). A point to bear in mind with this group of fish is that the dorsal spines are poisonous and the aquarist should exercise care.
Another well known group of fish are the surgeons or tangs (a well known one is the powder blue, Acanthurus leucosternon). This group of fish are [tag-ice]algae grazers[/tag-ice] and often travel in large shoals on the wild reef. This group will eat algae and other food provided by the aquarist, and if there isn’t any algae in the aquarium some must be provided preferably daily. It is possible that they will attack hair algae.
The problem with fish is that they are ’large’, and unless a suitably large aquarium is in use they are not in sufficient number to be effective. Small nano aquariums are too small for surgeons etc but of course they could still suffer from algae problems.
The solution that is employed by the majority of aquarists for many different sized aquariums is the introduction of [tag-self]aquarium snails[/tag-self]. These snails are an interesting and very useful addition as they consume algae. Some will also consume detritus. As far as I know, there isn’t a snail type that is ‘all singing all dancing,’ but they can be used for different purposes, all toward the control of algae.
The snail possibly best known is the Turbo Snail. These snails however will not usually eat hair algae but will graze small surface algae, and they do this very well. Further to the mentioned snail is the so-called Super Turbo. This one will eat hair algae and many other types, and they will do it with more gusto, hence the name (I assume).
Trochus snails are another that will eat hair algae, and also small surface algae and diatoms (brown algae caused by silicon). The brown algae that sometimes appears will often disappear of its own accord when the silicon supply exhausts.
If there is a sand bed in the aquarium then the Cerith snail is of use. It buries itself in the sand and helps to keep it healthy by aiding in compaction prevention. As far as algae is concerned, they come to the surface of the sand and feed on any film of algae that is there, and may well move to the glass and feed from that too before returning to the sand.
This is not by any means an exhaustive list of algae eating creatures suitable for the seawater aquarium. Hopefully it gives a direction for consideration and research should algae become a problem.
Of course, the aquarist should consider why there is an algae problem and take measures to correct the cause. For instance, are phosphate and nitrate measurements too high? Algae eaters are great assistants but have limits.
Having a few snails in a marine aquarium is usually fine, with quality live rock there is normally enough food for them to eat. However, as with other forms of livestock, they can be overstocked. It is of little use putting a high number of any particular type of snail into the aquarium – it is probable that the food source will be exhausted and the snails, or some of them, will die. The idea is to strike a balance where the aquarist is happy with the controlled algae level and the snails are healthy and happily munching away. So consider which algae(s) present the problem and select a snail or snails to suit. Then purchase three or four of each type needed. Introduce them to the aquarium and observe the impact on the algae. It can be judged at what speed the algae is consumed against its growth. Then an additional number of snails can be obtained and further observation undertaken.
In the home marine aquarium the aquarist will never achieve the diversity and balance found on the wild reef. However, with patience, research and observation a controlled situation can be achieved.
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A Big Welcome To This Algae
September 11, 2007
Overall, marine aquarists are a happy lot. It’s not surprising really, the hobby can be quite challenging, is certainly fascinating, and, after a period of just sitting looking at the aquarium, calming.
Unless of course the aquarist notices something that is wrong. Action is quickly taken to put it right. If there is potential to harm the inmates of the aquarium then calming it certainly isn’t.
Mention the word [tag-tec]algae[/tag-tec] to a marine aquarist and often a vision appears of a potentially beautiful reef covered in horrible green hairy stuff, or a mat of dark algae creeping over sand and rocks causing ruin. Then again, perhaps it conjures up a vision of lovely pink encrusting algae. Whatever the picture, this one is different. [Read more]
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Coralline Algae – Love It Or Hate It
August 13, 2007
Coralline algae (which is a red algae with a calcerous based skeleton), in my opinion adds colour to the aquarium. Once it starts to cover the live rock numerous shades of red add a certain different aspect to the rocks. You have probably seen aquariums like this either in person or in pictures.
Coralline on the glass though – it is a different opinion – at least for me it is.
I don’t mind it on the live rock or even the pipework but I have a distate for it being on the glass. As soon as I spot it on the glass I attempt to remove it by either a scraper or if it is a tricky little blighter I use a razor blade.
I suppose this bring me onto another aspect – where does it come from?
[tag-tec]Coralline algae[/tag-tec], which is not to be confused with red slime algae, normally starts to grow in an aquarium when live rock is introduced – either as a filtration medium or via a coral attached to a piece of live rock. Once the aquarium becomes stable and the correct water quality maintained the coralline quickly starts to spread.
There are lots of different colours which can be seen, however I have noticed that the colour is normally darker towards the bottom of the tank or in areas where there is less light. Normally coralline actively starts to grow when there is sufficient calcium present in the water. You do however, need to monitor the calcium levels to ensure that they do not drop below an acceptable limit and if possible attempt to keep it stable.
I have a good coverage of coralline in my aquarium. There was not a lot when first set up but over time it has grown but I personally believe that because I scrape it from the glass that the scrapings float along in the water column and where they land they attach and grow. I have also noticed that where there is coralline present on the live rock it appears to prevent other algae from growing. Why I am not sure but it definately does.
Therefore if you have an aquarium which is low in [tag-tec]coralline[/tag-tec] then why not scrape some coralline from another area and let it float free in the water column. You never know over time it may spread. Another good method is to introduce some small pieces of live rock from an established aquarium which are covered in coralline algae and place them in crevices around your live rock structures.
I do wonder if coralline algae covering the live rock will prevent or reduce the functionality of the live rock. I don’t believe that it does. My reason for this is that live rock is basically full of tiny holes and burrows which are smaller than the eye can see. If we were to remove some live rock and examine it closely under a microscope then I believe that there will be lots of minute little holes and crevices covering the surface allowing the water to enter the live rock where it is filtered.
To me coralline algae can make an aquarium visually more atractive and I suppose that this is what is good about this hobby – everyone has their own belief as to what looks nice and what does not. I don’t like it on the glass but someone, somewhere in the world will find it exceptionally attractive.
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Problematic Algae – The Reefkeepers Nightmare.
July 29, 2007
Algae is a problem for most salt water aquarium keepers at some point in their adventure, the secret with algae is having the knowledge as to why it grows and how to actually prevent it.
Of course not all algae is problematic, for example coralline algae, sometimes known as [tag-tec]red marine algae[/tag-tec] can be quite pleasant to the eye. It is a nice colour, spreads over the rocks giving them a nice appearance – until it starts to grow on the glass, then it can become a nightmare. [Read more]
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